Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Bain BBQ — a Texas-Style Barbecue Food Truck — To Hit Midtown in March

Bryant Bain in his Bain BBQ food truck



Get ready for the Bain BBQ food truck to roll into Midtown in early March.

And think “Texas.”

“I’m from Texas, so it will be Texas craft barbecue,” says owner Bryant Bain. “But it does have a little Memphis influence.”

Bain, 30, who is from Louise, Texas, described the difference between the two ’cues. “Compared to Memphis barbecue, which is your dry-rub pork-centric, Texas barbecue, especially mine, is beef-based. So, the brisket is king when it comes to my barbecue.”

He also will sell Memphis-type barbecue, including ribs and pulled pork. “But I’ll focus more on beef and sausage and beef ribs.”

Bain BBQ beef ribs

Bain began barbecuing when he was 12 years old. “I competition barbecued with my family. We had a giant rig and we’d go around Texas competing. I fell in love with it. I just love the smell of smoke and the patience it takes: 14, 16 hours to bring this tough cut of meat that, used to be, nobody wanted and turn it into something delectable.”

He seasons his brisket like he would a steak with just salt, pepper, and garlic. “My briskets are USDA prime. I don’t do anything lower than that. 

“My real secret, I guess, is my cooker. I have a pure wood-burning cooker. I don’t know anybody else in Memphis who does pure wood. I know a lot of people who use charcoal and wood, but mine is pure wood-burning. I throw logs on a fire and that’s it.”

That’s why his method of cooking is known as “craft barbecuing,” Bain says. “It’s going back to the original barbecue days when people would literally have a fire and slow-roast a piece of meat.”

Bain uses an “offset stick burner” to cook the meat. “There are two chambers. A big chamber — that’s your main chamber where you put your meat. And off to the side of it is a smaller chamber. That’s where the fire burns. On the opposite side is the chimney stack. It creates a draft and it pulls the heat and smoke across the meat.”

He uses “pure oak” to cook the meat. “I like the flavor best. Every type of wood gives you a different flavor. And, usually, you’ll cook with whatever is regionally available. Back in Texas, I cooked with post oak. Here, red and white oak. Some use hickory, some fruit woods like cherry, peach.”

Bain, who moved to Memphis six years ago, says, “It’s the best decision I ever made because I met my wife here. Heather Waldecker. She will be helping in the truck and her sister in law, who is going to move here this weekend, will be doing all the side dishes and desserts for me. Hannah Waldecker.”

Side dishes will be potato salad and a “combo vinegar/mayo-based” coleslaw, which, Bain says, “won’t be super vinegary. More of a mayo base, but not really thick.”

He also will serve a smoked macaroni and cheese. And “Texas pinto beans. “They’re not like the sweet barbecue beans you get here. They’re kind of like chili beans.”

Desserts will include caramel banana pudding and “a couple of different miniature pies. We’re going to be rotating. Chocolate pecan pie, Tennessee chess pie, and key lime pie are the three that are for sure.”

Bain loves Memphis. “I’ve never seen a community take such pride in itself than I have in Memphis: 901 Day. ‘Grit Grind.’ ‘It’s a Memphis Thing.’”

Bain, who lives in Midtown, says, “I love the charm of Midtown. I love all the good bars here and all the good restaurants in Midtown. I love all parts of Memphis, really, but Midtown is probably my favorite.”

This will be his first food truck experience, says Bain, who works remotely as an IT manager for a Minneapolis company. He asked some friends who were moderators of the Memphis Sandwich Clique Facebook group if he could sell some of his barbecue plates. “Kind of get an idea if people like my style of barbecue. And it was a raging success.”

Bain, who built his food truck, says, “It looks very vintage. Kind of ’50s vintage Americana.”

The outside of the trailer is built with “all sheet metal roofing, that kind of wavy metal. So, it looks like an old Airstream. This is actually a trailer I pull around with my truck.”

Bryant Bain and his Bain BBQ food truck

Bain doesn’t plan on stopping with his food truck; his future plans include opening a food truck park in Midtown. “We’re still in the very early talks.”

He’s already talked with Archimania architect firm about designing it. “It will be a food truck park/beer garden. People can get food from their favorite food truck, grab a beer, and just hang out.”

Bain will have his food truck permanently set up at the park. “The way I do my cooking, it’s hard to move my trailer around because I have to have the fire going 24/7.”

Bain BBQ brisket

Bryant Bain

Categories
News The Fly-By

MEMernet: A Binghamptom Wedding, a Midtown/Germantown Feud, and a Real-Life Grinch

Never Know

Nextdoor user Cindy Brandon wrote last week, “Never know what you’ll see in Binghampton. There was a wedding today, I guess, at Blessed Sacrament church in Binghampton and we live across the street. They had horses and a mariachi band. I absolutely love Midtown Memphis.”

Feud Remembered

The Historic Memphis Facebook group brought back some jokes from the ’70s-era Germantown/Midtown feud.

John O’Bryan posted, “Do you know why Germantown house wives never host orgies? Too many thank you notes to write.”

Tim Gibson wrote, “Memphis will never fall in the river because Germantown sucks.”

Tweet of the Week

@tamisawyer: “Pro Tip: Instead of bottle service, you can buy Veuve at @joeswines & sparklers online and it’ll come out cheaper and without COVID-19.”

You’re a Mean One

Dennis Ostrow called out a real-life Grinch with a security-cam photo on Nextdoor last week after the guy stole Ostrow’s Christmas lights.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Kelly English to Take Over Midtown Fino’s

tripadvisor.com

Exciting news, Kelly English is taking over the Midtown Fino’s.

His goal, he says, is to preserve something that is so authentically Midtown.

He plans to serve breakfast, with an emphasis on breakfast sandwiches, including pork rolls. But, otherwise, the menu will be much the same.

He hopes to have it open by early April.

When asked if this was out of his comfort zone, English replies, “Everything I do is outside of my comfort zone.” He says that’s what keeps him striving.

He says he is not taking over the East Memphis location.

We’ll keep you posted on this story. 

Categories
Letter From The Editor Opinion

Flat City

A story came out in The Commercial Appeal this week that caused some chatter around local social media networks. The story was about a report from the Census Bureau that said the nine-county Memphis metro area gained a grand total of 888 people in the past year. That’s “growth,” but an intimate kind of growth, the kind where we could invite all the newcomers down to Loflin Yard for drinks or something.

But it’s important to remember that’s not just Memphis, that’s nine counties, our entire metro area. Also relevant is the fact that, nationally, the growth rate for all major metro areas was .8 percent. Sure, there are still cities with higher-than-average growth rates, but the trend, at least lately, has been flat population growth for most American statistical metro areas.

So how does that flat population number square with the boom in development in downtown and Midtown Memphis? People are moving in, obviously, or all these new apartments and condos and old buildings being built out for reuse wouldn’t be happening; all these new restaurants and entertainment districts wouldn’t be getting built. But that growth appears to be, at least for now, a function of these core areas gaining local residents at the expense of other local neighborhoods that are losing them.

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As I wrote a couple of weeks ago, the areas that are beginning to show decline are the vast suburban tracts that were created as a result of the area’s suburban sprawl — the housing and development boom in Memphis’ outer reaches that marked the 1990s and early 2000s. It was seen as “growth” when it was happening, but it wasn’t. We got less dense, population-wise, but we weren’t gaining residents; we were just spreading our chips on the table, instead of stacking them. We built new schools, we got new malls, but it was mostly at the expense of Midtown and downtown Memphis, which lost residents. The growth trend now is back toward the urban core, as mall culture is dying and people are seeking community again.

How do we avoid making the same mistake in reverse: building up some areas while leaving other areas fallow and decaying? It will require first recognizing and accepting that we literally have spread ourselves too thin. We don’t have enough people living here to fill all the space in the metro area that we’ve built out and developed. We need to think creatively about how we recreate the inner core, making sure we avoid the mistakes made in developing our outer ring: overbuilt housing, cheap, transitory architecture, and automobile-centric design. And we need to get serious about de-annexing areas that have been complaining for years about having to be part of the city. Let ’em go. See you at the next Grizzlies game.

Development in the Memphis core must be smart, with an eye toward permanence and architectural cohesiveness. We need to be vigilant against overbuilding neighborhoods around entertainment districts or city parks — “pop-up” projects that appear destined to become obsolete in the coming years.

To that end, the proposed apartments at Sam Cooper and East Parkway are a good case study. The developers seem aware of the need to build something that is architecturally in sync with the neighborhood, but concerns have been raised about increased traffic at an already busy and complex intersection, one that serves as the primary gateway to the city from the east. The development’s proximity to the thoughtfully crafted and artistically welcoming eastern entrance to Overton Park is also a matter for consideration.

But controlling ambitious development in the urban core is a good problem for a city to have; certainly better than the alternative. Sometimes, flat is good.

Categories
Cover Feature News

Fall Fashion: Painter’s Palette

Memphis is trending, and not just because the city is finally enjoying some civic love. Crushing on anything Memphis has been in style for a while. Fashion in Memphis is bright, colorful, sharp — a perfect match for Birdcap’s new mural at Midtown’s Eclectic Eye. Color takes over in the artwork as explosions of different hues form imaginary beings in an engaging fantasy water scene.

“Street art serves as a cultural connector to other cities,” Birdcap says, describing how he’s seen images of Memphis’ murals on far-flung Instagram and Facebook accounts. “That has one of our walls in it. It says Memphis in the description. I think that’s huge … that’s a new Memphis hallmark.”

Robbie Johnson Weinberg, director of operations at Eclectic Eye and patron of this particular piece of public art, has her own innate sense of style and played the perfect hostess to our group of models (scouted from the Peabody Rooftop Parties) and behind-the-scenes crew. “I’ve always had a huge appreciation for and interest in the arts, specifically in Memphis,” says this one-time art history major. “The products we carry are truly works of art for your face. Every day, we get to help our community express their sense of fashion and style through eyewear; it’s an exciting and fulfilling job.”

Local retailers are loaded up with great fall clothing, and the biggest, brightest trend is color … and having the personality to pull it off. Artists like Birdcap and art supporters like Weinberg are key elements in keeping Memphis moving in a forward direction. Fall fashion here in the Bluff City is confident and reflective of what some good self-pride can do for the heart, soul, and mind. It is our time to shine, and the next few pages are proof that inner style is all about surrounding yourself with expressive design through the arts — painting and fashion and life in general.

× Scott

Doubling up on denim is a great trend to play with, and when there’s a dash of sophistication, like with this fedora, it keeps a stylish balance. Brown fedora, $175, from Mister Hats. Denim button-up by Eton, $255; denim blazer by L.B.M 1911, $695; both from Oak Hall at Regalia.

× Keirra

Maxi-skirts are perfect for fall. Patterned skirt, $88; blue and white top, $65; both from Stock & Belle on South Main. Black-and-gray faux fur vest, Jack by BB Dakota, $68, from Sachi in Laurelwood. Lucite bracelets by Alexis Bittar, $170 each, from Oak Hall.

× Charles

Raw jeans, $135; gray, fitted button-down, $175; both from Stock & Belle on South Main. Sunglasses by Cuthbert & Chen collection by RetroSpecs & Co., from Eclectic Eye, call for price.

× Catherine

Faux furs are popular with looks varying from sleek-and-chic to big-and-fuzzy. Big, gray faux fur vest by Mink Pink, $88, from Sachi. Lucite earrings by Alexis Bittar, $275, from Oak Hall. Blue-and-white printed dress, $125, from Stock & Belle. Pink sunglasses by Chanel, from Eclectic Eye, call for price.

× Molly

Layers are the ideal way to stay warm and look cool in the fall. Long, peacock-colored maxi-skirt, $90; white, flowing top, $95; long, knit sweater jacket, $84; all from Stock & Belle.

Bright orange bucket bag, $48.50, from Turkoyz in Laurelwood.

Brave Design green druzy hieroglyph points earrings, $126, available on www.bravearrowjewelry.com.

× Keirra

Invest in a coat infused with color. Long red Italian wool coat by MaxMara, $2,990, from Oak Hall. Long sterling pendant necklace made to order by Lauren Carlson of Question the Answer, $86, available at City & State on Broad. Round red sunglasses by KREWE du Optic, from Eclectic Eye, call for price.

× Scott

Men’s fashion cranks it up in fall with luxe textures. Cozy but handsome cashmere sweater, $1,430; super fine thread button-down, $310; both by Etro. Khaki pants, $178; all from Baer’s Den in Laurelwood.

Real men wear awesome jewelry. Brave Design agate tusk necklace, $154.

× Charles

Real men also wear color. Deep purple sweater by Vince, $195; purple-and-white checkered button-down, $195; AG gray slacks, $178; all from Oak Hall. Black leather beret, $75, from Mister Hats. Eyeglasses by MOSCOT, from Eclectic Eye, call for price.

× Catherine

Rich colors like merlot are perfect in classic silhouettes. Dress by MaxMara, $845; bracelets, $125 each; all from Oak Hall. Amethyst druzy earrings by Brave Design, $134, from www.bravearrowjewelry.com. Eyeglasses by Bevel, from Eclectic Eye, call for price.

Necklace: Brave Design totem collar, $168, available on www.bravearrowjewelry.com.

× Molly

Fierce fashion will get you through fall. Crisp, fall, sky-blue T-shirt dress, $88, from Stock & Belle. Black, faux fur vest by Charlie Jade, $154, from Sachi. Brave Design druzy cuff, $90, available on www.bravearrowjewelry.com.

× Scott

Plaid is all over, and this button-down gets an urban twist with a fantastic puffer jacket-styled sport coat. Jacket by Etro, $1,590; red-and-white plaid shirt in wicking fabric, $125; AG jeans, $168; all from Baer’s Den. Sunglasses by SALT, from Eclectic Eye, call for price.

× Molly

The blazer is taking center stage and adds structure to fall’s shapes. White-on-white snake-print blazer by Charlie Jade, $178; vegan leather pants by Bishop & Young, $94; fuschia tank top by Eight Sixty, $64; all from Sachi. Aqua quartz collar by Brave Design, $140, available on www.bravearrowjewelry.com. Sunglasses by Sazerac, call Eclectic Eye for price.

× Catherine

Black and white is a popular color-combo for fall and looks modern when paired with color. Black-and-white striped crop top, $56; and pink pleated skirt, $82; both by State of Being; both from Sachi. Gemstone and sterling necklace made to order by Lauren Carlson of Question the Answer, $118, available at City & State. Neon pink eyeglasses by l.a.Eyeworks, from Eclectic Eye, call for price.

× Keirra

Cut-out shapes add interest in this velvet top in a gorgeous color. Burgundy velvet top by Endless Rose, $44; pleated metallic skirt, $64; both from Sachi. Wooden earrings by shove•It, from Stock & Belle.

Shoes from Sachi in Laurelwood.

Sunglasses and hat: Shades by Ray-Ban; hat from Mister Hats.

Thank You:

Robbie Johnson Weinberg, Eclectic Eye

All of the wonderful staff at Eclectic Eye

Isabelle Blais, inferno creative

Scott Bartlett, model

Molly McCormick, model

Catherine Porter, model

Charles Porter, model

Kierra Tucker, model

Christopher Padgett, Bobbi Brown make-up artist, Macy’s Oak Court

Lucy Hadskey, hair stylist Secret Services Salon

Amber George, hair stylist Secret Services Salon

Sara Harrison, production assistant and wardrobe stylist assistant

Memphis Pizza Cafe

Categories
Letter From The Editor Opinion

Two Trains Running

There’s two, two trains running,

Well, they ain’t never going my way.

One runs at midnight and the other one

Running just ‘fore day. — Muddy Waters

I was sitting in my favorite little neighborhood bar the other night and fell into a conversation with a couple of realtors. They were bemoaning how Midtown was changing. “All we do these days,” one of them said, “is show houses to people from out east — Germantown and Collierville.” The realtors were happy to be selling homes but afraid that the invaders from the east would change the character of Midtown.

“They drive more aggressively. They tear down hedges and put up big security lights,” she said. “Midtown’s a special place, and we don’t want it to become just another ‘burb neighborhood.” But to be honest, for Memphis, that’s a pretty good “problem” to have. And that conversation feeds one of the two central narratives that are driving Memphis these days.

Here’s one: The city is changing for the better. The reinvestment and reinvigoration of Overton Square, Cooper-Young, Broad Avenue, Sears Crosstown; the downtown and Bass Pro Shops boom; the greenlines, bike lanes, the big trees and old houses of the central city, all are luring people back and fueling a renaissance.

Lots of people believe this to be true. I’m one of them. So are those realtors.

But there’s another narrative that also has a lot of adherents. It’s a simple credo, comprised of just one word: Crime. That’s Crime with a capital C. Crime is the most important thing ever, they say. We have to fix crime, or nobody will ever want to live in this hellhole.

You can point out to the Crime People that crime rates have been falling for eight years. They will respond by telling you that the statistics are rigged. They will tell you that five people got shot last weekend and ask, “How can crime be going down?” They will cite local television news, which will give you all the crime you can handle on a nightly basis. Telling someone whose car has been stolen that crime is going down is like trying to explain to someone who’s freezing that global warming is a problem. It doesn’t matter.

So we have two trains running. Two ways of looking at our city. Two trains that both carry some truth. Crime in Memphis is a big problem, as it is in lots of cities. We need to keep trying to fix it — by improving our education system, by working to bring in more jobs, by using smarter policing. But to focus on crime to the exclusion of the other narrative is wrong and does a disservice to all of us living here and working to keep Memphis vibrant.

I’ve lived here 23 years, and I’ve seen a transformation, especially over the past few years. There is a momentum that’s real right now. We need to keep that train running.

And derail the other one.

Categories
Letter From The Editor Opinion

Everything That’s True

Photo by Fontaine Pearson

Darling, we are the light reflected 

Darling, we are the love we made 

Darling, nothing precious is protected 

We’re all trembling like a blossom 

With winter on the way. — Rob Jungklas 

Maybe it’s last week’s passing of Wanda Wilson, the singular and much-loved proprietess of the P&H Cafe, a woman who created and curated a beer joint that once made Midtown feel like a village of like-minded souls. It was a harbor, a place of sanity (and insanity), conversation, friendship, and laughter for those of us of a certain age.

Maybe it’s the rain and the long cold spell and the winter hanging on, but there’s an inevitable sadness that comes when you ponder the passing of people and things. Sometimes you just have to let it in.

Or maybe it was my discovery of Rob Jungklas’ “Everything That’s True,” a perfect and gorgeous song celebrating the temporal, inevitable human condition. Memphis singer Susan Marshall posted Jungklas’ song on her Facebook page and dedicated it to all the “beloved Memphians who have recently passed: Jimi Jamison, Jack Holder, John Hampton, John Fry, Sid Selvidge, Jim Dickinson, Di Anne Price, Mabon ‘Teenie’ Hodges, James Govan, and Wanda Wilson.”

Seeing that list in black and white was stunning. So many Memphis music and cultural icons gone in such a short time, so much light no longer reflected.

I found myself wanting to disconnect from the hive-mind of email and chatrooms and Twitter and Facebook for a while. I dug out some old books and hunkered down by the fireplace on Sunday, reading from Be Here Now, Zen Mind, Beginner’s Mind, and a battered Alan Watts tome — books that offer words and thoughts that lead one back to the center, to this moment.

Here. Now. All that we have.

And after thinking for a while, it came to me that the hive itself, the incessant connections we make with each other these days, is itself a gift — a way of learning more about the joys and pains of the human condition. The village is larger now; the beer joints are still there, but there are other paths to empathy, to sharing sorrows, celebrations, and memories, to being connected to those we don’t see often enough.

The deepest valley of the human heart knows winter is always on the way, even as spring approaches. It’s as certain as the throw of stars overhead on a February night. There’s a sadness there, but it’s a good sadness. And that too is a gift.

Categories
Opinion Viewpoint

‘Night, Darlin’

The first person I met at the P&H Cafe wasn’t the beer joint’s famous proprietress, Wanda Wilson. It was Martha Sue Campbell from Florence, Alabama, a longtime beer-and-hash slinger who passed away last April. Sue frowned at me and squinted, which I later discovered was her way of smiling, and gave me the once-over twice. I was new in town, only 18 years old, and sure she was going to ask for an I.D. that I didn’t have. Instead, she took my order and asked if I’d like to hear a joke.

“Do you know which two toes a woman’s most ticklish between?” Sue asked, frowning even harder, which meant she was about to bust a gut. Before I could reply she blurted out, “The big ‘uns,” and we both frowned and frowned and laughed and laughed. I was a country kid, on my own for the first time in a city I didn’t know. But watching my funny new acquaintance waddle through a swirling curtain of cigarette smoke to fetch my cheeseburger and gazing for the first time at all those strange, nicotine-browned murals of famous (and infamous) locals like banker, politician, and mega-fraud Jake Butcher, and Dana Kirk, Memphis State’s ticket-scalping basketball coach, I knew I had somehow landed in safe harbor, right where I belonged.

Like so many other “poor and hungry” artists, musicians, actors, authors, journalists, roustabouts, and straight-up weirdos, I was immediately intrigued by Wanda Wilson. She always wore a big, curly, blonde wig, a feather boa, and a hat that she might have won from Mae West in a poker game. She chain-smoked cigarettes from a long, jeweled cigarette holder and called everybody “darlin'” in a husky Parsons, Tennessee, drawl that reminded me of home.

Wanda reminded many people of home, no matter where they came from.

Last Friday, Wanda Wilson shuffled off this mortal coil, leaving Memphis a poorer and hungrier place. She was Midtown’s muse, and many artists painted her portrait, though few captured her timelessness like Paul Penczner, whose impressionist works once hung in the bar. She was the patron saint of the local theater community, and a real life honky-tonk angel, famous for her generosity and a love of lost souls. Chances are, if  you were ever a regular at her beer joint and found yourself down on your luck, she’d offer to start a tab before you asked, buy your first round, offer a job if she could, and a place to stay until you were back on your feet.

One particularly busy night, Wanda told me to “jump behind the bar” and get my own beer. “Act like you belong here,” she scolded, unconcerned with any potential ABC violations.

“Act like you belong here” was something I’d hear her say to many other customers. It wasn’t just permission to self-serve; it was the golden rule, and the one thing you really had to do to become a part of the P&H family. Like she once told an old friend whom she’d thrown out for bad behavior (and invited back with open arms): “This isn’t a bar sweetie. It’s an orphanage for the misunderstood.”

Wanda was mugged one summer night in 1999 while leaving the bar with the evening’s bank deposit. The girls of Memphis Confidential Burlesque — more P&H orphans — concocted a plan to stage a pudding-wrestling event to recover the losses, and Jerry Lawler agreed to referee. Somehow I found myself in the middle of it all, in a kiddie pool filled with chocolate pudding, wearing a grass skirt and coconut boobs, wrestling three women, and feeling like I’d stumbled into some lost chapter of John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row. Hundreds of people paid cash money and lined up 20-deep to take in the gender-bending, fire-breathing, bodice-ripping show.

“I love you for thinking of this, but I don’t need the money,” Wanda told the event organizers. “Let’s give it to Hands on Memphis.”

That’s who she was.

Wanda traveled to Hollywood when Craig Brewer’s P&H-inspired film, The Poor & Hungry, had its big moment at the Hollywood Film Festival. I will never forget the moment when she arrived on the Paramount lot, wearing a stunning black gown covered with tiny gold coins. When someone asked about her outfit, she proudly announced, “A drag queen gimme this dress, darlin’.” Even in a city accustomed to seeing stars, this Memphis glamor girl could turn heads.

Losing Sue last year was hard, but I’m still having trouble imagining a world without Wanda Wilson. When I had no family in Memphis, Wanda and the P&H regulars stepped up. Now we’re orphans all over again.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Hypothetical Question: Would a Whole Foods Make It in Midtown?

That hypothetical question — Would a Whole Foods make it in Midtown? — is just that. I have not heard even the tiniest peep about this actually happening.

In Flyerland, we talk a lot about grocery stores, so this question has come up before. What brought it up most recently was the Wall Street Journal story (warning: paywall) about Whole Foods opening a store in Detroit, Michigan.

Categories
News

The Plan for Overton Square

Bianca Phillips has the visual layout for the new proposed Overton Square development.