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We Saw You

WE SAW YOU: Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival

People were allowed to play with their food at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival & Awards. Meaning, those attending the event moved around, laughed, and schmoozed while they sampled food from 16 food stations — and drank from 14 drink stations — at the event, which was held February 4th at The Kent.

It was the third year for the event since it changed formats in 2022, going from a sit-down dinner to a tasting format. “For years — I want to say 50 years — it was a banquet held in a hotel ballroom,” says Memphis Restaurant Association executive director Sally Fienup.

Phillip Ashley Rix at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Andrew Mason and Lauren Pfingstag at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Karina Bautista and Thomas Schaub at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Christopher Green at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Connor and Kelly Fox at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Hall Crawford and Jeffrey Goldberg at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Kyle Sklar and Tristan Farrow at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Aaron Binkowitz and Madison Erwin at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)

The association changed the format for several reasons, Fienup says. “Number one, was a general trend in events pre-2020 where tastings became popular for fundraising events. People enjoyed a more casual atmosphere for events and eating.”

Covid was another reason. “We still wanted to have an event post-Covid, but everything changed in terms of people not wanting to be confined to sitting down for long periods of time. People wanted flexibility to come and go. And just our access to pricing and even rentals changed post-Covid.”

And, finally, Fienup says, “I think the Memphis Restaurant Association community was ready for a change in the format of their events because we were and always were interested in attracting members to our community who may or may not have been familiar with us.”

A crowd of 460 attended this year’s event. “This one, by far, was our most successful in terms of number of attendees and number of participants,” Fienup says. “I would say the restaurant industry felt stronger over the past year than it had in the past, which I think contributed to the restaurants and beverage vendors participating.”

Peter Parrino and Todai Malone at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Earl Brown, Curtis Mitchell II, Pierre Pige at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Kyle Crisler and Bailey Rhodes at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Reuben Skahill and Shelby Lewis at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Emily Aguillera and Juan Juarez at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
John Robinson and Catherine Sights at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Chris Ware, Deni and Patrick Reilly at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Jake Schorr at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Each year the Memphis Restaurant Associate gives out awards. This year’s honorees were Memphis Restaurateur of the Year: Marco Puerto, owner of Cocina Mexicana; Associate Member of the Year: A. J. Jones with Old Dominick Distillery; and Lifetime Achievement Award: the late Jennifer Biggs, who was food editor for The Daily Memphian.

Mike Miller is president of the Memphis Restaurant Association

Mike and Tonya Miller at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Carson Blackfan and Maggie Gibbons at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Joshua and Melody Smith at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Kat Bollheimer and Stone Pannell at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Alisha Cunningham, Norbert Mede, Lashanna Span at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Landon Stone and Adalya Armstrong at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Ryan Marsh at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Donnie and Alexis Malone at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Jeff, Harry, and Kelcie Zepatos at the Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Clint Van Court, Katie Jones, Clark Schifani, Kelly Brock at Memphis Restaurant Association Food Festival (Credit: Michael Donahue)
We Saw You
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Tipping is Going Automatic in Many Places, But is It Here to Stay?

Automatic tipping is familiar to any dinner gathering with a large party or, more recently, on checks for servers during the pandemic. But it’s arrived on every check at some restaurants and it may be here to stay.

Tipping is hardwired into the American hospitality industry. So are strong opinions about it. Some diners believe tipping is sport, a lagniappe earned on a server’s hustle. Some diners can’t bring themselves to tip less than 20 percent — no matter what — because servers depend on them as a big part of their salaries.

Even professional opinionistas can’t agree. A 2019 opinion piece in The New York Times claims the tipping system is “immoral.” However, an opinion piece for The Washington Post in 2018, claimed that if you get rid of tips, you’ll “lose your best servers.”

Automatic tipping, usually 20 percent-18 percent on every check, became more widespread during the pandemic. The demand for restaurants was high for diners looking for something familiar, normal. The supply of servers dwindled as many were laid off, quit on health concerns, or looked for new jobs. 

Many restaurant owners made tips automatic. They wanted to retain their valuable, in-demand servers with steady cash, rather than leaving it to the whims of customers to determine their paychecks. This sentiment is said out loud at Margaritas in Cooper-Young. There, a sign in the dining room read recently that automatic tips would be included on all checks in order to keep servers.

“In the wake of the current employee shortage in the restaurant industry, many employers are beginning to understand that they can not maintain quality [front of house] staff at $2.13 [per hour] plus optional tipping,” said Allan Creasy, a political consultant and longtime Memphis bartender. “What I find unsettling is that in any other industry, the solution would be simple: raise the hourly wage.”

This tipping structure, called automatic gratuity, has been around and discussed long enough to need a shorthand, an abbreviated portmanteau. Those in the restaurant industry just call it “autograt.” But it’s not for all.  

I’m opposed to it.

Mike Miller, owner Patrick’s Neighborhood Bar & Patio

“Me and my operation at [Patrick’s Neighborhood Bar & Patio], I’m opposed to it,” said Mike Miller, the restaurant’s owner, past president of the Memphis Restaurant Association, and 2019’s Tennessee Restaurateur of the Year by the Tennessee Hospitality and Tourism Association. “I have never, nor do I have any desire or intent ever to institute an autograt. … I want my staff accountable to their customers. The idea of a gratuity is to ensure proper service.”

Tipping is ingrained in American society, Miller said. But the model is also ingrained in the American restaurant business. 

Profit margins at independent restaurants are thin, Miller said, probably somewhere between 3 percent and 6 percent to the bottom line. Wages for many restaurant’s front-of-house workers — servers, hosts, and bartenders — make up around 5 percent of a restaurant’s expenses. 

Increase current minimum wages (of around $2 per hour) to $10 per hour, Miller said, and those wage expenses would rise to 25 percent of a restaurant’s income. That wipes out the profit margin (of 3 percent-6 percent) and makes the business no longer viable, Miller said.     

Numerous restaurants around Memphis have gone to the autograt system, sometimes quietly. But diners are taking notice. 

Will it last? Miller thinks maybe so. 

“I would say that once you go down this road — it’s kind of like the wheel tax — you never go back,” Miller said. 

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Cover Feature News

Penny’s Worth

Anfernee Hardaway is home again. As if he ever left.

On a rainy March afternoon, inside the brand-new Laurie-Walton Family Basketball Center on the University of Memphis’ south campus, Tiger athletic director Tom Bowen introduced the greatest living Tiger of them all as the program’s new basketball coach.

First gaining legend status at Treadwell High School, then later as a Tiger and an All-NBA guard with the Orlando Magic, Penny Hardaway approached the podium, and a region-wide family reunion ensued. “It’s great to see so many familiar faces from when I played, the people who have been so supportive,” said Hardaway who, at 47, is older today than his own college coach, Larry Finch, was when he coached his last Tiger game. “I want to see the Memphis flags waving from cars, see the T-shirts and hats.”

Those shirts and hats had grown scarce at FedExForum, where attendance hit a half-century low in 2017-18, despite Tubby Smith’s second team putting up a 21-13 record and junior point guard Jeremiah Martin nearly winning the American Athletic Conference scoring title. For the better part of those two years — since Josh Pastner left for Georgia Tech — community support for Hardaway taking over at his alma mater had grown — at first gentle rumbling, then later, outright public appeals. Hardaway’s ultimate hiring became the worst-kept secret in the Mid-South, with reports leaking before Smith had the chance to coach the Tigers in the AAC tournament (where they would lose in the semifinals).

Within 30 days of his hiring, Hardaway managed to convince the top two local recruits — Alex Lomax (who helped Hardaway win three state titles at East High School) and Tyler Harris (Cordova High) — to sign with Memphis. Hardaway announced Tennessee had been added to the schedule (the Tigers will host the Vols on December 15th) with the likes of Kentucky and Arkansas on the new coach’s radar. The reaction of ticket-buyers and sponsors has, in basketball terms, lit up the Memphis scoreboard ever since. Having sunk to a 48-year low in attendance last winter, the Tiger program may well set new highs in 2018-19, the program’s 15th season at FedExForum.

Guard Tyler Harris

Sharpshooter David Wingett (who scored more than 2,000 points as a prep player in Nebraska) joined the recruiting class to help fill an outside-scoring void the program has suffered for four seasons. The rookies will join Martin and four other holdovers — guard Kareem Brewton and forwards Kyvon Davenport, Raynere Thornton, and Mike Parks — to write the first chapter in a new volume of Hardaway history.

“Losing is not an option in my mind,” said Hardaway at that opening press conference. “I want to hit the ground running. People are telling me to be patient, do this or that first. But I’m not built that way. I’ll go for it all or none at all.”

Tigers Coach Penny Hardaway leads from the sidelines.

Even with a recruiting class that jumped into the nation’s top 30 when Lomax and Harris signed, the Tigers have been picked to finish as low as eighth in the 12-team American Athletic Conference. (AAC coaches picked Memphis to finish fourth — behind UCF, Cincinnati, and Houston — in their preseason poll.) This doesn’t sit well with the rookie coach, who needs extra motivation like he needed extra vertical leap as a player, which is to say — not! “It’s realistic that we will not finish eighth,” he says. “They were thinking the freshmen can’t carry us, and they’re really not respecting the staff or the guys coming back from last year, when they finished fifth.”

What — beyond himself — can Penny sell a Tiger fan-base that all but disappeared last winter? Hardaway suggests we’ll see a different brand of basketball from the season’s opening tip-off. “I think I’m a little more up-tempo than Coach [Smith],” he says. “We really want to run, fast break. There won’t be a lot of half-court [offense]. We want to get it out. Defensively, we might press more. We’ll be a high-energy team on defense, as well. I like to speed teams up, keep them off-balance. I want it to be a blur. By the first timeout, I want teams playing us to be gassed.”

For any team to accelerate pace as Hardaway envisions, guard play — and guard depth — will be critical. The new coach sees as many as five players who can handle point-guard duty, though in this era of “positionless” basketball (see the Golden State Warriors and count their trophies), the primary value a guard brings the Tigers will be his versatility.

Forward Kyvon Davenport

“You only go as far as your guards,” says Martin, a preseason all-conference selection who will be playing for his third coach in four years. The Mitchell High School alum averaged 18.9 points and 3.8 assists last season, though he missed the Tigers’ final six games with a fracture in his right foot. Martin had hernia surgery in August, but appears to be in game shape for a season of leadership. “I was never in bad spirits about my injury,” he says. “Everything happens for a reason. The team’s not just about me. It’s a process, but I sat out so long, now that I’m back, I’ve got to get back right. I’m gonna keep working hard to get there.”

Martin is prepared to attack with the ball in his hands or from the wing when the likes of Brewton (a fellow senior), Lomax, or Harris is handling the ball. If Hardaway’s vision is realized, the ball won’t be in anyone’s hands very long. “My whole life, I’ve been on the ball some, and off the ball,” stresses Martin. “I’m just a basketball player, to be honest.”

Lomax and Harris grew up as friendly rivals, Lomax playing for Hardaway with Team Penny on the AAU circuit while Harris developed with Team Thad. (Hardaway acknowledges that he tried to persuade Harris to join his team, but to no avail. Until now.) Harris is small (5’9″ and 150 pounds), but can light up a scoreboard. He averaged 30.3 points as a senior and was named Class AAA Mr. Basketball after becoming just the 12th Memphis high school player to score 2,500 career points. Lomax took home the Mr. Basketball award after both his sophomore and junior seasons at East. In his four years as a Mustang, the team went 122-18. Having played for Hardaway since he was in 5th grade, Lomax is more than comfortable in his role as a freshman, and he’s ready to join forces with Harris.

Guard Jeremiah Martin

“Coach teaches an NBA style, so it’s not all that different,” says Lomax. “He knows what it takes; he’s been through it. He relays the message, and it’s our job to go out and put it on the court. Playing with Tyler may be one of the best things that ever happened to me. We offset each other well. He does a lot of things I don’t do. If he’s open 10 times, I’ll find him 10 times. It’s a new friendship; we talk every day now.” If you doubt Hardaway’s influence on Lomax, ask him what he’d like to contribute as a freshman: “I hope I can make an impact defensively, and I just want to win games.”

Not to be lost in the guard shuffle are Brewton and another freshman, Antwann Jones. Brewton averaged 9.1 points as a junior and part-time starter last season. He was second only to Martin in assists and steals. “Everybody wants to play and get buckets,” notes Brewton, “but how are you gonna get buckets? You gotta play defense.” Already preaching the Hardaway philosophy, Brewton has embraced the program’s new culture. “There’s a lot of energy,” he stresses. “It’s a family atmosphere.”

Brewton and Hardaway each see something of themselves in Jones, the 6’6″ guard from Orlando and a third top-100 recruit Hardaway was able to capture. For Brewton, it’s Jones’ ability to score, his aggressiveness with the ball, even as a rookie. As for the comparisons with Hardaway the player, consider those a means of motivation for a player aiming to seize minutes on the floor.

A slimmed-down Mike Parks (he lost 20 pounds over the offseason) and Raynere Thornton will be counted on for muscle this season. The two combined for 8.4 rebounds per game last year, a number that needs to grow if the Tigers are to minimize opponent possessions. Junior transfer Isaiah Maurice brings additional size (he’s 6’10”) and athleticism to the Tigers’ frontcourt. With Parks sidelined by a back ailment, Maurice started the exhibition game against LeMoyne-Owen and contributed 18 points and 7 rebounds in 21 minutes.

Among Tiger big men, though, track the progress of Davenport. The Georgia native averaged 13.3 points and led the Tigers with 6.1 rebounds per game last season. He’ll be a focal point this winter, according to Hardaway. “We expect a lot from Kyvon,” says Hardaway. “There are going to be some wrinkles where we get shots specifically for him. Last year, he did it off the glass, didn’t get a lot of plays run for him. We’re going to have to get him the ball; we need him to score.”

Davenport’s length and ability to run the floor are ingredients for a difference-making finisher, one who can follow a break, receive and deliver lobs, or clean up missed shots. “[Coach Hardaway] lets everyone play their own game,” emphasizes Davenport. “It’s better for everybody. You’re gonna play your role, but you’re free. No restrictions.”

And Davenport loves the pace. “We’ve been killing ourselves in practice,” he says. “When we get to a game, it’s going to be easier for us, with the timeouts.” Davenport recognizes a sense of immediacy this season, his last as a Tiger. And he wants to make the kind of impression that lasts beyond his days in Memphis. “I want to be remembered as a great teammate,” he says, “one who helped develop the freshmen and led this team somewhere special.”

And what are we to expect from a rookie coach more famous than most of the seasoned counterparts he’ll confront? “For the most part,” says Hardaway, “coaching is understanding who you have on your team, understanding yourself, understanding situations.” As aggressively as he attacked defenders during his playing days, it shouldn’t surprise that Hardaway isn’t timid when it comes to the new gig. “My biggest strength is in-game adjustments,” he says. “We’ll have our team prepared. But every game doesn’t go as planned, and you may have to adjust. That’s where my strength comes into play. The culture we’re trying to build around here is multiple efforts, toughness, playing hard when you’re on the floor.”

If anything, Hardaway will have to resist the urge to don a game uniform when the lights are turned on and 17,000 fans pack FedExForum for a show we haven’t seen in these parts in some time. “I’m ready to get into the arena,” says the coach a fan base will continue to call by his famous nickname. “I’ve always prepared well, so practice is great. But to get into the arena . . . I want to feel the jitters. I’m anxious to get there.”

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Beyond the Arc Sports

“Welcome Back Mike”: Notes From the Forum Lobby

With a “Welcome Back Mike” message on the marquee above the dais, the Grizzlies celebrated the return of a franchise favorite today at the lobby of FedExForum.

Flanked by head coach Dave Joerger and team CEO Jason Levien at a spirited and well-attended public press conference, the newly signed Mike Miller praised his new team with a long string of defensible superlatives: Joerger as “an unbelievable hire.” Zach Randolph and Marc Gasol as “the best big-man combo in the league.” Conley as “the most underrated player in the league.” Add in a “lockdown defender” in Tony Allen and the “championship pedigree” of Tayshaun Prince, and Miller made clear he sees this Grizzlies team as one that can compete to get where his most recent employer has been for the past three seasons: In the NBA Finals.

Larry Kuzniewski

Levien indicated that the team had been game-planning a potential Miller amnesty since before the past season ended. Miller revealed that Levien was one of his first phone calls when the amnesty came down. And the tone of the day underscored how close a relationship Miller and Joerger have.

“Isn’t this great?,” a Grizzlies employee said afterward, surveying the scene. “Great that it’s not happening in Oklahoma City today,” another onlooker answered. And that’s part of it.

The Miller introduction felt like the peak of the late-summer momentum that seems to have firmly re-entrenched the Grizzlies as a legitimate Western Conference contender. And Joerger went into a bit of detail about how Miller can factor on the floor, not only in spacing the court for the team’s power players but also using his versatility to give the team more playmaking and more small lineup options.

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Beyond the Arc Sports

Deflections: Mike Miller, Josh Akognon, Point Guard Endgame

Mike Miller, back in the day.

I always joke about the Grizzlies making moves when I’m out of town, but this is ridiculous. After a quiet opening month of free agency that provoked murmuring discomfort from considerable swaths of the fan base, the Grizzlies completed three meaningful transactions — trading for the rights to Nick Calathes, signing Mike Miller, and claiming Josh Akognon on waivers — with another potentially on tap while I was on a week-and-a-half-long road trip.

I wrote about the Calathes deal from the road, here. Now back in town, let’s work our way through the team’s other recent and still outstanding business:

1. Mike Miller Signing: This was a coup for the Grizzlies in a number of ways. Let’s count some of them:

A. The team addressed two of its three most pronounced needs: Adding a significant three-point shooter (career 42%) and also more size at the three (Miller is 6’8” and even at this stage of his career produced a significantly better rebound rate than Tayshaun Prince or Quincy Pondexter).

B. They filled both of these needs on the cheap. As an amnestied player, Miller was willing to sign for the minimum ($1.4 million for players with his league tenure). And, because of a league provision designed to remove the financial incentive to sign young players at the expense of veterans, the Grizzlies will only be on the hook for roughly $884,000 of that, with the league paying the rest. The upshot here is that even after the Miller signing, the Grizzlies retain enough space under the tax line (even considering unpublished contract incentives) to sign another free agent at an above-minimum rate.

C. They brought back one of the most popular players in franchise history, giving the team an injection of goodwill that can help soothe at least some of the sore feelings over the departure of Lionel Hollins.

D. Finally, they kept Miller away from a couple of conference rivals — Houston and particularly Oklahoma City — for whom he would have been a major factor.

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Opinion

Jock Tax on Grizzlies Under Fire in Nashville

Tony Allen

  • Tony Allen

The so-called “jock tax” on NBA and NHL athletes in Tennessee is tip money to them so it was sad to read in The Tennessean about the opposition to it in Nashville this week.

Tennessee has no state income tax and Memphis has no local payroll tax. To raise money, Memphis must increase the highest sales tax rate in the country or the highest property tax rate in the state. Both the Memphis City Council and Shelby County Commission raised property taxes this year.

The jock tax costs players a maximum of $7,500 a year. According to the fiscal note on the 2009 legislation, the total tax on NBA and NHL players this year is about $3.5 million, about half what Mike Miller will make next year when he returns to the Grizzlies.

Grizzlies fans pay a tax on seats, tickets, and concessions that helps pay the cost of the arena.

Tony Allen, who signed a new contract with the Grizzlies paying him $5 million a year, was in Nashville to oppose it. Allen, who has said he “bleeds blue,” did not speak at the hearing Thursday. If he played in Georgia he would pay state income tax of 6 percent; in North Carolina, the state tab is 7.75 percent. In Tennessee, $7,500.

The Grizzlies ownership opposes killing the jock tax because the revenue is passed through to them. Jason Wexler represented the ownership group at the hearing. He told the Flyer the tax brings about $1.1 million a year to Memphis.

“We use it to recruit events to FedEx Forum,” he said. “Memphis is a good market but not a must-play market. We get about ten concerts a year.”

“It’s working,” he added. “It’s an effective incentive tool.”

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Beyond the Arc Sports

Deflections: Calathes, Miller, Summer League React

Coming at you live from Narragansett, Rhode Island:

The latest Grizzlies acquisition: Nick Calathes

  • The latest Grizzlies acquisition: Nick Calathes

The Calathes Deal: I promise Grizzlies transactions when I go on vacation and I don’t disappoint. Yesterday, the Grizzlies formalized a deal with the Dallas Mavericks (first reported by ESPN.com’s Marc Stein) to acquire the rights to point guard Nick Calathes, currently with Lokomotiv Kuban of the Russian League. To obtain the rights to Calathes, the Grizzlies removed protections on a 2016 second-round pick already owed to Dallas.

Calathes had a terrific career at the University of Florida and was a highly regarded draft prospect (particularly by then ESPN.com analyist John Hollinger, as I mentioned here a few weeks ago), but ended up falling to the Mavericks in the second round after agreeing to a contract with a Greek team prior to the draft. After four successful years overseas, Calathes seems ready to jump over to the NBA, and when the Mavericks drafted Shane Larkin and then agreed to free-agent deals with veteran Jose Calderon and Israeli rookie Gal Mekel, it was clear Calathes’ rights were obtainable.

There’s some thought that this deal was made in reaction to the poor play of Tony Wroten Jr. in Las Vegas Summer League [more on that to come], but my sense is that this was considered a good value play by the Grizzlies and would have been pursued regardless. The two pressing questions: What are Calathes’ NBA prospects and how likely is he to join the Grizzlies this season?

On the former, Calathes is roughly similar to former Grizzlies’ point guard Greivis Vasquez: He’s 6’5”/6’6” with advanced playmaking skills but is a spotty shooter with middling athleticism. The shooting — a solid three-point shooter at Florida, Calathes’ percentages from both long-range and the free-throw line declined mysteriously over time — is a concern. But Calathes is coming off an MVP performance in the 2012-2013 EuroCup tournament and the Grizzlies think there’s a good chance he can step over and be a quality back-up point guard.

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Sports Sports Feature

Griz Draft Love, Then Trade Him for Mayo

I learned from a Grizzlies source tonight that a deal is in the works that would send the rights to Kevin Love to Minnesota along with Mike Miller, Jason Collins, and Brian Cardinal in return for the rights to O.J. Mayo, Marko Jaric, Antoine Walker, and Greg Buckner …

The Flyer‘s Chris Herrington was all over last night’s NBA draft action on his Beyond the Arc Grizblog. Read it here, and check back later today for more.

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News

Grizzlies’ Mike Miller “Looks Like an Old Lesbian”

“Men Who Look Like Old Lesbians,” a photo blog dedicated to pointing out which famous dudes look like ladies, features a shot of the Griz’ Mike Miller sporting barrettes in his curly locks.

Ouch. But don’t worry: Miller is in good company. Other men who look like lesbians include Don Imus, Roger Ebert, Lou Reed, and Sonic Youth’s Thurston Moore. And none of them can shoot 3-pointers worth a damn.

Check it out. (You’ll have to scroll through a bunch of pix; Miller’s on the Nov. 2, posting. But it’s worth it.)