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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Independent Memphis Restaurant Owners Send Open Letter to Haushalter

Dr. Alisa Haushalter

A group of independent Memphis restaurant owners has released a letter to the media addressed to Alisa Haushalter, head of the Shelby County Health Department. The letter offers a number of suggestions for changes that would enable restaurants to better operate under COVID-19 conditions, and suggests that Memphis Restaurant Association has not adequately shared the “unique challenges” facing independent restaurants. The full text of the letter is below:

Dear Director Haushalter,

We hope that you, your family, and your colleagues are safe during these unprecedented and stressful times.

We understand the herculean task that faces you and your organization and we appreciate the thankless efforts you continue to make in your effort to keep Shelby County safe for everyone while keeping our industry and its workforce as sustainable as it can be.

We feel that the Memphis Restaurant Association leadership has not been willing or able to share with you the unique challenges facing the independent sector of our industry. Despite our many attempts to work with the MRA to develop a platform that represents the needs and positions of our independent owners and those in our employ, we have collectively made the decision to reach out to you directly to offer some insight as to what our thoughts and concerns are, and, if you’ll take it, an offer to be of assistance as you navigate this crisis in the upcoming months. We, like all business owners, want to keep our employees safe and financially secure, our guests safe and fed, and our businesses sustainable. We are eager to work with you so we can, together, achieve that goal. We’ve outlined our positions below.

We would like to get clear science based guidelines consistent with CDC recommendations and follow them.

We recognize the value of wearing masks and fully support the order that requires it. We also feel that promoting and adhering to the mask order is in fact being pro-small business.

While we support the occupancy restrictions placed on restaurants we would like you to explore the possibility of full service restaurants being able to utilize their bar areas to serve meals while adhering to the social distancing, alcohol restrictions and time restraint directives that are currently in place (even if more stringent than the regulations at tables). For some of us these bar areas constitute a large percentage of our available seating and are vital for our ability to remain open.

Regular testing is vital for our industry, as our contact with large amounts of people at distances closer than recommended is high. Our employees need to have access to same day testing appointments and same day results so we can utilize more effectively and fully commit to our role in the current county wide contact tracing program. A program we fully support.

We understand that following protocol set forth is the only way to see our businesses and the jobs they create and support (both internally and through the chain of supplies and entertainment that we symbiotically count on) survive.

We do not envy the position you are in and are all very much aware that the needs of your various constituencies can be quite different and sometimes contradictory. We do feel that we could be a strong asset to you when you do have to make decisions that affect our businesses and employees and our ability to fulfill our obligation to help keep the public healthy and nourished.

We are all in this together and we stand willing and eager to help you in any way that you may see fit.

Respectfully,

Anna Blair

Craig Blondis

Karen Carrier

Colleen DePete & José Gutierrez

Kelly English

Michael Hudman

Tina Jennings

Jaquila & Erling Jensen

Wally Joe

John Littlefield

Jonathan Magallanes

Michael Patrick

Tamra Patterson

Ronald Payne

Deni & Patrick Reilly

Roger Sapp

Rebecca & Jason Severs

Ben Smith

Bert Smythe

Andy Ticer

Bala Tounkara

Ryan Trimm

John Vergos

Felicia Willet

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In It Together

The restaurant business is a very difficult chosen profession,” says Sam Long, who owns and operates Seasons at the White Church in Collierville with her boyfriend Brian Harwell.

“This is what Patrick O’Connell, chef at the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia, wrote in my menu when I asked him to sign it: ‘Good luck in this difficult chosen profession,'” Long recounts. “When you open your own restaurant, you need all the support you can get, and the Memphis Restaurant Association provides just that,” she says.

A native Memphian, Long owned her own catering business when she was 18 years old. She worked with Erling Jensen at La Tourelle and at Erling Jensen’s, with Jeffrey Dunham at the Grove Grill, and at restaurants around the country. Even with her background, Long discovered she had some things to learn when she opened her own restaurant.

“Knowing how to prepare the food and how to provide good customer service is one thing. Knowing the ins and outs of government regulations, health department requirements, city codes, insurance policies, you name it, is a different thing altogether,” Long says.

The Memphis Restaurant Association (MRA) was founded to “protect its members from unfair government legislation and unethical business practices, to provide information on ways to improve and maintain a healthy, profitable business, and to create a spirit of fellowship among its members.”

With 190 restaurant members and 140 associate members, new and old restaurateurs find an abundance of information and insight just a phone call away.

“I get calls from members all the time,” says Dunham, president of the MRA and chef/owner of the Grove Grill. “Somebody might have trouble with the new grease-trap regulations. Somebody else might have an accounting question. There is always something. The great thing about belonging to the MRA is that if I don’t know the answer, I usually know someone who does,” Dunham says.

The MRA got its start in 1947 — by accident or through persistence, one might say.

There aren’t many local restaurant associations around the nation. Restaurateurs typically join statewide associations that provide greater lobbying power on a national level. Many of the members of the Memphis association also belong to the Tennessee Restaurant Association (TRA) and the National Restaurant Association (NRA).

The TRA was founded in 1936 and consisted of several chapters spread throughout the state. Memphis, according to Huey’s owner Thomas Boggs, a former MRA president, was the largest chapter. Due to its location, restaurant owners in Memphis were able to observe trends in nearby states.

“Memphis restaurateurs saw what was going on in Atlanta when it got approved for liquor-by-the-drink,” Boggs says. “Atlanta turned into a convention city, and the Memphis guys wanted a piece of that business. But they knew that the only way to attract some of those people was through liquor-by-the-drink.”

However, the TRA wasn’t interested in supporting the Memphis chapter, which consisted of such influential figures as Robert Anderton of Anderton’s, Charlie Vergos of the Rendezvous, and Harry Zepatos of the Arcade.

“When those guys realized that they wouldn’t get any support from the TRA on this issue, they decided to split and start lobbying themselves,” Boggs says. The Memphis Restaurant Association was born, and even though it took many years, its founders were successful in their quest.

“The way the MRA was founded pretty much defines what it is today,” says Dunham.

“As recently as a few years ago, we had a law that didn’t allow restaurants to serve liquor, beer, or wine before noon on Sundays. Well, the MRA took the lead and lobbied to change that law, and now restaurants can serve alcohol at 10 a.m. on Sundays,” Dunham says. Justin Fox Burks

But what’s the MRA’s role aside from fighting controversial liquor issues? What’s its role in an industry with steadily growing competition that might make some people hesitant to join such a tightly knit network?

“Sure, our industry is competitive, probably even more so now than 50 years ago, but there is also a strong sense of camaraderie in this business. We do want people to succeed,” Dunham says.

Wight Boggs, wife of Thomas Boggs and the MRA’s executive director, takes a different approach to the question “Where do we stand?”

“Besides industry advocacy, our dining and buyer’s guide, and the networking opportunities, the MRA is involved in a lot of community projects — the Food Bank, MIFA’s Feed the Need Week, Youth Village’s Soup Sunday, Zoo Rendezvous, to name just a few,” Wight Boggs says. “This is a great way — especially for people in the restaurant and food industry who tend to be very busy — to be involved in the community and to give back,” she explains.

One of the criticisms the MRA faces frequently is its image as a good-old-boys club. Wight Boggs knows it’s an impression that’s hard to shake because the association still gets linked to such figures as Vergos, Anderton, and even her husband Thomas. However, she also knows that change can only happen if the next generation gets involved.

“Like many members, when I first joined the MRA I didn’t go to the meetings and I wasn’t very involved until Thomas Boggs stopped by one day and gave me the speech,” Dunham recalls.

“The speech” is something that Boggs himself had to listen to, when “Big Charlie Vergos” ordered him to the Rendezvous and “wore him out.”

Vergos, a firm believer in giving back to the community, had a laundry list of complaints about the “young generation of restaurateurs,” which counted Boggs. He made his point with Boggs, and Boggs made the same point with Dunham. And now Dunham is making that same point with the next generation of Memphis restaurateurs.

www.memphisrestaurants.com

siba@gmx.com