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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Greatest Beer Ever … I Think

I was dancing with some gal who, remarkably, kept getting shorter — or maybe I was getting taller. It was hard to tell. Normally it takes a great deal of social pressure to get me to dance, but I was celebrating the creation of the greatest batch of beer in the drink’s long, illustrious history — and I was only a sophomore. Murffbrau, usually a bit on this side of awful, had joined the greats.

For this batch, I’d pulled out all the stops, including getting a big stove-top pot, as opposed to trying to make the stuff in a bathtub.

While I worked, my roommate — we’ll call him Alex — walked in with a bag of not-quite-fine brown powder and tried to sell it to me as cocaine. This was a little weird because I was never much of a drug guy. Although there was a lot of the stuff whirling around Tuscaloosa in those days, so I knew what it looked like and, if we’re going to be honest, what it smelled like.

Richard Murff

headier times.

“It’s brown,” I said. “It looks like you crushed up a few Ritalin tablets from that bottle on your dresser?”

“Naw man. This is the real shit.”

Alex was one of those people who acted and sounded reasonably normal until he got high. Actually, he didn’t have to be high — the mere subject of drugs would do it. Mention the word marijuana and he’d sound like the pothead in some campy teen flick and develop a passable Keith Richards stagger. Then his mother would call and he’d sound like he’d just come back from the library.

I passed on the “cocaine” and went back to beer-making.

I’d bottled the wort and waited a few weeks for the Murffbrau to reach its regrettable potential, so I was ready to dive in. Which was about the time that Alex showed up. He called me “Bra” and managed to drag it out across two syllables, so he was full of drugs — or full of something, at any rate. As his sleepy-looking girlfriend drifted back to his room to take a nap with the lava lamp, Alex performed the obligatory head check to make sure there weren’t any narcs hiding in the sofa, and dropped his voice. “We got a lot of ‘shrooms. You shoulda come with. Wanna buy some?” He threw a suspiciously clean bag on the Goodwill coffee table between us.

Now, having a roommate who is a small-time drug dealer has its pitfalls, but at least it’s bohemian and vaguely dangerous. Having a roommate who is a small-time pretend drug dealer is just stupid. I was sure the goon had gone to the farmer’s market, bought a pillowcase of shiitake mushrooms for $1.40, and was now attempting to sell them for $80 a baggie. Which he swore was the “street value.” Tuscaloosa had paved roads and internal plumbing back then, but nothing the urban vernacular would define as “street.”

I’d had enough. “So,” I said, opening the bag, “you wouldn’t want me to do this?” I crammed several handfuls of mushrooms into my maw and washed it all down with a cold, chewy homebrew. Alex was still yelling about how much money I owed him, as I left for a mid-afternoon stroll.

I have a friend who still makes fun of the way I was dancing some nine hours later. I had reason to celebrate, though, for I’d just made the greatest batch of beer I’d ever made; that anyone ever had, for that matter. My technique surpassed those of German brewmasters in their lederhosen, Belgian monks in their cowls, and the English brewers in their tweed. The girl with whom I was dancing (who by this point was only three apples high) left me for some fellow who had not perfected the art of brewing that summer. But the great ones are always abandoned on the verge of triumph.

It was worth it — if only for the beer. I only wish I could remember how I’d done it.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Murffbrau: Outlaw Brewing in Alabama

I probably should have known something was up when the place didn’t have a name on the door. I’d driven in from Tuscaloosa and went to one of those blank, nondescript office buildings that look like they used to be a hotel. According to the Bob Wayne song, “Everything’s Legal in Alabama,” this should have been fine. The truth is, no one ought to rely on outlaw country singers for legal advice. The brew supply shop didn’t have a sign because home-brewing was illegal in the state until 2013. I was in college long before 2013.

Murffbrau was an institution, started at the University of Alabama by my brother and — when I inherited the equipment — continued by me. It was flavorful and unfiltered. A little chewy for some, but it tasted like carbonated bourbon and was a mild hallucinogenic.

When most people say a beer is unfiltered, craft beer lovers mean a modicum of cloudiness and say things like “It’s authentic.” Murffbrau was, well … Have you ever had that live kombucha where the label tells you NOT to shake it up because you don’t want to disturb that half an inch of settled, all-natural sludge at the bottom? With this stuff, that’s what I mean by “unfiltered.” You really needed to pour the stuff into a glass slowly, to leave the crud in the bottle. Later you could use the leftover stuff to spackle drywall.

While Murffbrau was top-fermented, serving it chilled was ill-advised. Frigid is more like it. Cold temperature is an effective hedge against an awful-tasting beer. It doesn’t do anything to the beer as much as it does to your taste buds. Getting the temperature right — that is, to very, very cold — was crucial. This is hard to do in the shower.

In the working adult world, problem drinking is relatively easy to pinpoint. You might be able to hide it, but the mere fact that you are covering up your drinking makes the problem fairly obvious. In the undergraduate world, with its weird schedules and persistent lack of reality, this is trickier. A beer at lunch isn’t much of a red flag, but if you didn’t wake up until 11:30 a.m. …

It’s okay to tie one on during the weekend, but if the weekend starts at 3:30 p.m. on Wednesday. … Well, you see the slippery slope. We had a general rule of thumb to tell whether someone was just having a drink or if they were drankin’: If you brought booze into the shower, it was pretty damn clear you were on a mission. The parameters of said mission may have been hazy, but you were on one, dammit!

So there I was, standing in the shower, in exactly what I came into the world wearing, with a pewter tankard balanced precariously on the soap dish (I’d been banned from breaking any more glasses in the shower), when in walks someone from down the hall who took one look at the scene and disappeared, only to come back with a Murffbrau of his own. And this story, I realize, is getting weirder in the retelling.

Getting back to the point, I stocked one of the old Dr. Pepper machines from the early ’60s with Murffbrau because it was fortifying and I’d told the girls that my pewter mug was stylish and clever. The hitch was that if brewing your own beer in Alabama was illegal, the selling of it must have been more so. But I just couldn’t resist. Because unless you were from California, in those days, craft beer meant homebrew. If you got sick of Miller or Bud, you were on your own.

Sure, today’s crafts, made in sterile conditions by people who know what they are doing, are better by every conceivable metric, but there really was something satisfying about owning your beer. Of course, we’d do well to remember the last line of “Everything’s Legal in Alabama”: … “just don’t get caught.”