To anyone who’s ever complained that Memphis is not cosmopolitan enough, this will be a weekend to remember: For one night only, Memphis will be visited by a celebrated band from one of the world’s oldest, busiest cities to ever spring up around a trade hub.
I’m talking about Agadez, of course. You know, just east of Timbuktu? (That’s not just a figure of speech). Since the 14th Century, the city, in what’s now Niger, has been at the cross section of caravan routes from all across North Africa. Now, this Saturday, July 15th, at Growlers, Memphians can get a taste of the guitar-driven sound that’s been rocking the Sahara for nearly 30 years, courtesy of the region’s most celebrated quartet, Etran de L’Aïr.
Currently touring the U.S. this summer, the band is focusing squarely on the Midwest, with just a smattering of shows on either coast. Perhaps they intuitively gravitate inland? If the inland empire of Memphis is feeling like the Sahara lately, Etran de L’Aïr’s groove should be relatable. Now, the band has released Live in Seattle, a two-song live recording of the group performing at Madame Lou’s in Seattle on the last night of their first-ever US tour. This soundboard recording, featuring fan-favorite songs “Toubouk Ine Chihoussay” and “Nak Deranine,” is available on Bandcamp as a Name Your Price recording.
This release is also the latest evidence that Etran de L’Aïr are a consummate live band, having cut their teeth at innumerable wedding parties in the Aïr region of Niger, homeland of the Tuareg people.
Over recent decades, a distinctive approach to the guitar has fomented in Tuareg culture. Agadez’s style is the fastest, with frenetic electric guitar solos, staccato crashes of full drum kits, and flamboyant dancing guitarists. Agadez is the place where artists come to cut their teeth in a lucrative and competitive winner-take-all scene. Guitar bands are an integral part of the social fabric, playing in weddings, baptisms, and political rallies, as well as the occasional concert.
Etran De L’Aïr’s current three-week tour also includes headlining dates at Music Hall of Williamsburg and The Getty Museum, festival appearances at 80/35 Music Festival and Square Roots Music Festival, and intimate appearances at record shops Total Drag and Grapefruit Records. Saturday’s Growlers show is being presented by Goner Records, and includes opener Graham Winchester (click here for tickets).
With a tour itinerary like that, the band is clearly open to fans from all cultures. “We play for the Tuareg, the Toubou, the Zarma, the Hausa,” current band leader Moussa “Abindi” Ibra explains. “When you invite us, we come and play.”