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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Loafing Around

Brother Franco and his Real Loaf bread are something of a Memphis institution. Although he hasn’t always been baking his bread in Memphis, he has been baking in Tennessee for more than 20 years.

“When Jimmy Lewis owned Squash Blossom, he used to sell my bread,” Franco says. “All his stores used to carry it, and even when I lived in East Tennessee, I would make a delivery once a week.”

Until recently, Franco was running Real Loaf Bakery in a location between Broad and Summer. He has since moved the operation to the Good Life Honeysuckle health store on Poplar across from East High School. While the store chiefly sells dietary supplements, it does offer a few local products, such as honey, Groovy Food Granola, and Brother Franco’s bread, which is baked on the premises and gives the store a warm and comforting atmosphere.

Franco’s breads are vegan and baked with mostly organic ingredients. The loaves weigh in at just under two pounds, and varieties include whole wheat, ultra grain, cracked wheat, banana nut, and blueberry. And while the $5- and $7-a-loaf price might be a little steep, it’s worth every penny.

Bread from the Real Loaf Bakery is also available at Square Foods in Cooper-Young.

Real Loaf Bakery, 3175 Poplar
(458-3003)

Fans of Jerry’s Sno Cones can rejoice. The hidden ice cream gem on Wells Station in North Memphis will now serve its frozen treats all year long.

“Customers have been asking me for a while to stay open throughout the winter,” says David Acklin, who owns and operates Jerry’s Sno Cones together with his children. “My daughter just graduated from high school, and she had an interest in managing Jerry’s, so we decided to stay open this year.”

In addition to its sno cones, slushes, freezes, shakes, and ice cream, Jerry’s has added burgers and sandwiches to its menu.

“We knew that we couldn’t add any new items to the menu during the summer, our busiest time, but we had several ideas and worked on testing those,” Acklin says. “We have been making sandwiches for about three weeks now.”

Sandwiches at Jerry’s include, among others, a cheeseburger on a buttered and grilled bun topped with hoop cheese and the works, as well as a fried baloney sandwich on buttered and grilled Texas toast with barbecue sauce, mustard, coleslaw, and cheese. Sandwich combos sell for $6 and come with French fries and a 20-ounce soda.

Another addition to the business is a telephone for call-in orders. “This is the first time in 33 years that the store actually has a phone,” Acklin says.

During the winter, Jerry’s Sno Cones is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Jerry’s Sno Cones, 1657 Wells Station (767-2659)

Jimmy John’s Gourmet Sandwiches is the latest addition to Memphis’ growing fast-casual sandwich-shop market. The Illinois-based chain opened its first local store on Poplar near White Station recently.

The company was started in Charleston, Illinois, in 1983 by Jimmy John Liautaud, who set out to create the world’s greatest gourmet sandwich, referencing cookbooks he’d checked out from the local library and trying his creations on friends and family members. As the story goes, Liautaud opened his first store near a college campus, trying to make ends meet while getting students and locals turned on to his sandwiches. Now, 25 years later, Jimmy John’s operates more than 500 stores, with another 160 openings scheduled for 2008. Seven of those are planned for the Memphis area.

On the menu at Jimmy John’s are eight-inch sub sandwiches on homemade French bread, including the Pepe (appelwood ham and provolone cheese), the Big John (medium-rare choice roast beef), and the Vito (Genoa salami, provolone, capicola). There’s also the Plain Slims, which are sub sandwiches minus the lettuce, tomatoes, sprouts, sauce, etc., and the Giant Sub Sandwiches with twice the meat on seven-grain or French bread.

If you can’t make it to the store, Jimmy John’s delivers for a charge of 25 cents per item, no minimum order required.

Jimmy John’s, 5181 Poplar (685-3040)

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Glass of Green

Want to help the environment? Start with a good glass of wine. Having choices between conventionally made wines and those more eco-conscious was once non-existent, but now they are more plentiful.

Viticulture can be a great strain on the environment. The industry’s negative effects include excess water usage (it takes up to eight gallons of water to produce one gallon of wine), chemical spraying, and air pollution. Wine lovers can help alleviate this stress through smart choices in the wine shop and the restaurant without sacrificing quality or taste.

Seeking out organic wines can be a good start, but it doesn’t end there. “In some instances, more diesel and chemicals are used in organic grape production than sustainably farmed wine grapes,” says David Gates, vice president of Vineyard Operations at Ridge Vineyards in California. Ridge produces high-quality, age-worthy wines from very old Zinfandel vineyards.

“Wine is food,” Gates continues. “It has moved along the same ecological path as the rest of agriculture. Conscious growers and vintners realize that the status quo isn’t good enough anymore and must work toward healing the earth by putting back as much as we take. Besides, sustainable wines taste good.”

In the sustainable vineyard, cover crops are planted to reintroduce nitrogen into the soil. Whenever possible, natural predators, not pesticides, are used to combat pests such as spider mites. And it doesn’t stop in the vineyard. The winery at Ridge’s Lytton Springs was built with rice straw and clay. The insulating straw and clay keep the tasting-room temperature around 68 degrees and the barrel room around 60 degrees — all without the aid of air conditioning. The 400 solar panels covering the roof have so far saved more than 102 tons of carbon dioxide from polluting the environment. What this all produces is some of the most beautiful, sublime, and food-friendly red wines in the world.

When Ron and Marianne Lachini set out to make world-class Pinot Noir in 1997, they knew they wanted “to respect the land and treat it well for generations to come.” For the Lachinis, sustainable viticulture not only protects and renews soil fertility but minimizes adverse impacts on natural biological cycles as well as wildlife, water quality, and the environment.

Alois Lageder, fifth-generation winemaker at Alois Lageder Winery, is breaking the deeply ingrained traditions held in the Alto Adige region of Italy. In an interview posted on the Internet, he said, “We conducted many experiments and found that the more naturally we do things, the better it is for the quality of the wine. When I took over the winery, I knew that we had a lot to change.” Lageder’s philosophy is to work in harmony with nature and not against it. The solar panels he installed on his new winery’s roof produce more than 50 percent of the winery’s power needs. Philosophy aside, his wines are seductive. Wine Spectator magazine placed his 2005 Pinot Bianco on their top 100 of 2006, and the 2006 Pinot Bianco is just as exquisite.

Aside from the positive ecological philosophy, there are two other important factors to consider: Does the wine taste good and does it sell?

“There has been a definite increase in demand for organic and sustainably farmed wines,” says Brad Larson, owner of Joe’s Wines in Midtown Memphis. “Many customers come here specifically seeking these wines. I used to keep the few that were organic in a section in the back. Until one day, Petros Lolonis, owner of Lolonis Winery, came in and said, ‘Don’t hide me in the back. Put me in with the rest of these wines. Ours is no different from the rest in taste and quality.'”

Recommended wines:

Ridge Geyserville Dry Creek Valley, California 2004. $36.99

Lachini Family Estate Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon 2006. $22.99

Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco Alto Adige, Italy 2006. $16.99

Lolonis Fumé Blanc Redwood Valley, California 2005. $13.99

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Veg Out

On Saturday, May 5th, the downtown Memphis Farmers Market kicks off its second season. More than 50 vendors, both old and new, have signed up, including the market’s first certified organic-produce vendor, Windermere Farm. This season, vendors were chosen more selectively to keep the quality up or improve it. Potential vendors were juried, and a percentage system was used to create a balance between produce, crafts, and value-added foods such as jellies, baked goods, and nuts.

“Agriculture will make up about 70 percent, value-added goods 20 percent, and crafts 10 percent,” says Ellen Dolich, chair of the market’s vendor committee. To provide as much variety as possible, artisans are on a rotating schedule and will only offer goods designed for use in the kitchen or garden.

On opening day, you’ll find the first crops of the season: lots of strawberries, lettuce, arugula, and micro-greens; spinach, radishes; broccoli and broccoli rabe; goat cheese, beef, chicken, pork, eggs, fruit trees, and shrubs. Jeff Golightly, Ken and Robyn Greene, and the Desert Rose Belly Dancers will perform. Michael Patrick of E.P. Delta Kitchen and Felicia Willett of Felicia Suzanne’s will share their knowledge during the “Farm to Fork” chef demonstration. In addition, the market will have a new feature this year: a café offering breakfast and lunch.

Memphis Farmers Market, Pavilion at Central Station (Front and G.E. Patterson). Every Saturday, May 5th through October 27th, 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. (rain or shine). For more information, visit www.memphisfarmersmarket.com.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

By the Book

Among its many meanings, “grub” is slang for food. But in the hands of Bryant Terry and Anna Lappé, the word takes on a whole new dimension. Grub, to Terry and Lappé, is “healthy, local, sustainable food for all, food that supports community, justice, and sustainability, food that is universal.”

Terry and Lappé are co-authors of Grub: Ideas for an Urban Organic Kitchen, a food book and cookbook that takes a look at what’s wrong with the food that most of us eat. It also gives tips and insights on how we can do better.

Terry’s inspiration came from memories of growing up in rural Mississippi and the meals he shared with family that were made with produce from his grandparents’ backyard garden.

Now, Terry is an advocate for healthy eating habits, something he finds to be a challenge because most people still think that healthy means bland.

“Healthy food needs to be delicious,” he said in a previous interview with the Flyer. “When you choose ‘grub,’ you don’t have to give up flavor. You don’t have to give up much at all — except a mouthful of pesticides.”

If you’d like to know more about grub, visit Terry’s cooking demo and book signing at the Memphis Farmers Market this Saturday from 9 to 11 a.m.

www.eatgrub.com www.memphisfarmersmarket.org

Square Foods has finally opened the doors of its new location at 937 S. Cooper. Unlike the old Overton Square market, the Cooper-Young version of Square Foods focuses almost completely on the deli, the juice and smoothie bar, and prepared foods for busy people to “grab-and-go.”

Owner Jeanice Blancett and kitchen manager Scott Coppin have focused on expanding the menu and the to-go items. Blancett designed the interior to create an eclectic neighborhood diner that also carries the most essential grocery items, such as milk and a few bulk foods. New in store is Square Food’s own line of vitamins and supplements.

For the daily lunch specials, visit the store’s Web site, www.squarefoods.com. Square Foods is open Monday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Specials are served on weekdays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and the store offers Sunday brunch from10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Square Foods Natural Deli & Market, 937 S. Cooper (274-4222)

Andy Grooms, proprietor of the Corkscrew and Alice’s Urban Market on South Front, has closed the market temporarily. Grooms wants to relocate Alice’s and is looking for a fitting downtown spot.

“We definitely want to stay downtown, and right now we’re looking at a place that’s close to AutoZone’s headquarters,” Grooms says.

For updates on the relocation, contact Grooms at the Corkscrew.

Corkscrew, 511 S. Front (543-9463)

On Sunday, September 17th, at the Agricenter International, the Germantown Area Chamber of Commerce is hosting the sixth annual Taste of the Town” with food from more than 40 Memphis restaurants and hospitality vendors. Amerigos, On the Border Mexican Grill and Cantina, Automatic Slim’s, Napa Café, Outback Steakhouse, P.F. Chang’s China Bistro, the Butcher Shop, and Tsunami are just a few restaurants from the line-up.

New this year is the VIP Premier Corner, a reserved-seating area with professional wait staff, premium wines and spirits, and culinary delights. The event also includes a silent and live auction at 6:30 p.m. to benefit the Make-a-Wish Foundation. Southern soul-music artist Makky Kaylor provides the entertainment for the evening.

Admission to “Taste of the Town” is $50 per guest, and tickets can be purchased at www.germantownchamber.com or by calling the chamber’s office at 755-1200. Admission to the VIP Premier Corner is $65 per guest or $600 for a table of 10.

“Taste of the Town,” Agricenter International, Sunday, September 17th, from

5 to 8 p.m.