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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Keith Clinton and Chez Philippe Make a Great Pair

It says something when a restaurant is named “Best Hotel Restaurant” twice.

It also says something when that restaurant’s chef held that title during both wins.

Chez Philippe at The Peabody was named “Best Hotel Restaurant” last September in USA Today’s annual 10 Best Travel Awards. And Keith Clinton was chef de cuisine both times the restaurant received the honor.

“This is the second year we’ve won in a row,” says Clinton, 36.

Asked how he felt when he heard the news, Clinton says, “It felt good and made me proud of my team and made me proud of our local growers we source from. We rely on that a lot to drive the script of our menus.”

And, he adds, “It’s kind of like music. They’re filling in all the chords and we are just playing them.”

According to the news release, “Chez Philippe is known for its modern American cuisine with classical French presentation and as one of the most romantic dining experiences in Memphis.”

It also points out Clinton’s “passion for incorporating local and seasonal ingredients into his culinary masterpieces.”

In a 2023 Memphis Flyer interview, Clinton told how he goes the extra mile for his diners — and not just with the food. Chez Philippe patrons are researched after they make their reservations. Using information from LinkedIn and other sources, Clinton likes to surprise his diners with information about themselves. Like telling them where they’re from, where they work, where they went to school. It’s a great way to personalize someone’s dining experience.

Recently, a woman dining at Chez Philippe told Clinton, “I’ve done my research on you.”

“And I said, ‘I’ve done my research on you, too,’” Clinton says. He already knew she was in the fashion and clothing business.

Clinton also uses information he gathers from servers, who overhear conversations during dinner. “Like they came here in 2019 or they were married at The Peabody 20 years ago. We know it’s their anniversary because they put that in their guest notes. Who they are and where they’re from.”

And servers are good about picking up bits and pieces of information. One server overheard a couple talking about how they got married at the old location of Felicia Suzanne’s Restaurant. Clinton asked them how long it’s been since they were at the restaurant. They said they hadn’t been since they were married. So Clinton hired a carriage ride for them to take after dinner. They got to drive past the venue where they were married. “People are just so blasé about what they are saying and don’t think people are listening.”

But last January Clinton added another twist to the Chez Philippe dining experience. He calls it the “Kitchen Course.”

About halfway or more through their meal, diners are invited to the kitchen. Their server says, “The chef has invited you to the kitchen to do a quick course with him.”

Opening snacks from a month ago — fig, apple, almond (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

People think what goes on in a kitchen is a “magical process,” Clinton says. So when it’s time for the meal’s intermezzo, the diners, if they choose to, are escorted by the maître d’ to the kitchen where they eat the intermezzo, which might just be a one-or-two bite granita, and “hang out and chat for five or ten minutes.”

The maître d’ then escorts them back to their table. “It’s kind of a hybrid of a ‘chef’s table,’ where the guest is eating in there the whole time.”

Clinton’s kitchen course “makes it so exclusive” to one table. “They feel special because they were invited.”

As for his food, Clinton says, “I’m always pushing myself.”

Currently, Clinton offers a 14-course menu, which incudes “surprise canapés.”

And, he says, “We change one thing a week instead of doing a seasonal menu.”

Instead of changing all 14 items, the one item he does change usually depends on what is in season at the farms he uses for a particular food. Clinton is loyal to the growers. So whenever his grower runs out of the blackberries or whatever he buys from that particular producer, Clinton doesn’t try to find blackberries from somebody else. “When he’s done, I’m always done,” he says. “I’m exclusive to them.”

The only menu item that has not changed since Clinton began is tuna, pomelo, and avocado. “My favorite of all time.”

Wilson Farms Blueberry Semifreddo (Photo: Chris Coles)

If any of his diners want to turn the tables and do some research on Clinton, they might discover he’s from Memphis, went to Bartlett High School, and, when he was in his 20s, played drums in an indie band, The Incredible Hook.

“It was music first and then it became both and then it became all cooking.”

Clinton still has a piano at his house. “It’s a very old, but very nice, extremely heavy piano. We just moved and it was so heavy it broke their dolly.”

But he only plays it now “in a passing manner.”

His wife Meredith, who was the sous-chef for almost a year at Bog & Barley, now works at Ben E. Keith Foods, a food purveyor.

They both cook at home. “It’s kind of like whoever is off that day. I’m off; I will cook. She’s off; she will cook. And if we’re both off, we go out.”

He also takes off his chef’s hat — figuratively speaking — to make time for their son Carter, 8. It’s “difficult to turn it off,” but Clinton knows he “has to be a good father.”

They do everything from picking strawberries together to playing video games together. “So that helps motivate me to turn it off and on.” 

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Cover Feature News

Hunka Hunka Memphis Love

Are you one of those Memphians who proudly says, “I’ve lived in Memphis my whole life and I’ve never been to Graceland”? Hmmm? Or, maybe, you’re more of the “been there, done that” type — the type who says, “MoSH? No, I haven’t been there since it was the Pink Palace.” But why? Why be so pessimistic when your city has so much to offer and there’s so much to do? No matter how long you’ve lived in Memphis, you haven’t seen everything; you haven’t been everywhere.

So, this summer, we encourage you to throw away your curmudgeonly attitudes, and discover or rediscover those spots that have put Memphis on the map. Sure, sometimes, they’re a bit touristy, but, hey, be a tourist. Lace up your brightest white sneakers and fasten your fanny pack around your hips. Affix your visor on your head and lather on that SPF. It’s time to staycation, baby.

Photo: Toby Sells

Go Back to Beale Street

Beale Street’s magic lies in mystery and discovery.

This mystique has drawn millions to its sidewalk shores for decades. Visitors know it’s a party place with music, probably. Curiosity magnetizes desire. Before they know it, they’re walking with their feet 10 feet off of Beale. (I said what I said.)

Maybe the mystique is gone for locals. Maybe that’s why they proudly shun Beale, on par with cocktail-party protestations about never going to Graceland.

But Beale Street deserves another look, locals. Here are a couple of assignments to help you get back to Beale.

1. Shop local — No, you don’t need another “Memphis” shot glass. But you need local beer (and music).

Assign yourself to go drink one beer at the Ghost River Brewing Co. taproom on Beale’s east end. The beer is fresh, local, and the taps are always changing. If nothing else, go for the beer garden. It’s beautiful, spacious, and one-of-a-kind. It’s a local’s oasis on Beale with a big stage for live music and a second-story patio built for great people-watching.

Stroll to Beale’s west end for a look inside Walking Pants Curiosities. Housed in the former Tater Red’s space, the shop offers elevated tourist fare, some of it appropriate for a Midtown cookout. (Consider the “South Mane” T-shirt.) Much of it is made by local makers like apparel from God Forbid & Co. and Cosgrove & Lewis Handmade Luxury Soaps.

2. Just go — Throw pride (and maybe prejudice?) to the wind. Consider all of Beale local. It is. Eat a bowl of gumbo at King’s Palace Cafe. Play pool at People’s. Catch a live band in one of those open-air bars. Take your kids for ice cream at A. Schwab. It’s all in the 38103. That means it’s Memphis. Just go. Let Beale’s mystery fuel your local discovery. — Toby Sells

Ching’s Hot Wings (Photo: Kailynn Johnson)

Indulge in Ching’s Hot Wings

A staycation is the perfect opportunity to knock something off of your food bucket list. As I scrolled through my cluttered saved posts on Instagram and TikTok of places that had been stowed away as the result of “camera eats first” posts and stories, I decided to knock something off my list that had sat there since my college days. As a Mississippi girl I thought the best wings that the South had to offer came from the Dixie Queen locations in DeSoto County. However, when I was a student at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville, I would always hear my Memphis friends longing for the taste of honey hot wings from Ching’s Hot Wings located at 1264 Getwell Road. My friend Jessica Davis let me know, after months of settling for franchises like Zaxby’s and Buffalo Wild Wings, that Ching’s was the spot to truly get a taste of what differentiates Memphis wing culture from others.

I decided to reward myself with a well-deserved cheat meal of honey hot chicken tenders, honey hot drizzled fries, ranch on the side, and an Orange Mound punch. As I went to pick up my order, it felt like walking into Memphis’ own Sardi’s as pictures of famous celebrities, both locally and nationally known, filled the walls, adding to the cozy vibe accompanied by the mouth-watering smell of wing sauce. As I took my first bite into my chicken tender, I realized Jessica was right: This wasn’t the same as the dipped tenders we’d eat during late-night outings in Knoxville. I can see why she’d be in such a hurry to get back home. — Kailynn Johnson 

Bass Pro Pyramid (Photo: Bass Pro Pyramid | Facebook)

Journey to the Pyramid

The Great American Pyramid opened in Downtown Memphis in 1991. Originally envisioned as a 20,000-seat arena for sporting events and concerts, the Pyramid was home court for the University of Memphis basketball team for several years and hosted performances by the Grateful Dead, Bruce Springsteen, Prince, R.E.M., Fleetwood Mac, and other major artists. 

In 2001, the Pyramid became the home of the newly transplanted (from Vancouver) Memphis Grizzlies. In 2004, when the FedExForum was completed, the Pyramid was closed and sat empty until 2015, when it reopened as the Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid. And if you haven’t experienced the current incarnation of the building, you need to head Downtown and take it in, at least once. 

It’s an immersive experience. You walk into a life-size cypress swamp filled with fish of many varieties, live ducks, and even a couple of alligators. In the center of it all, there’s a 300-foot freestanding elevator that takes you to a restaurant at the top of the building with a breathtaking balcony view of the Mississippi River and Downtown. 

There’s an archery range, a pistol range, a Wahlburgers restaurant, and even a river-themed bowling alley, where “alligator eyes” and other creature features decorate the bowling balls and shimmering lights make you feel like you’re under the river’s surface. There are boats and ATVs and all manner of fishing and hunting equipment for sale, plus clothes, boots, ammo, outdoor grills, a fudge shop, and so much more. And, here’s the best part: If you decide you can’t just leave until you see it all … you don’t have to! You can just book a room at the in-house wilderness-themed Big Cypress Lodge and spend the night enjoying the comforts of the “big pointy bait shop,” as Memphians lovingly call it. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Return to Chucalissa

The bluffs overlooking the Mississippi River where Memphis now stands have been inhabited by humans on and off for thousands of years. When Hernando de Soto’s expedition reached the river in 1541, they found a group of abandoned mounds in the area. The Chickasaw called the place “Chucalissa,” which means “abandoned house.” In the 1930s, Civilian Conservation Corps workers who were building T.O. Fuller State park rediscovered the mound complex. Archeological excavations revealed that the site had been occupied for at least 500 years. It is now a National Historic Landmark, and the site of the C.H. Nash Museum at Chucalissa. 

Most native Memphians know Chucalissa from elementary school field trips. But it’s definitely worth a visit with fresh eyes. The museum itself is built in the shape of a mound. It has an extensive collection of Native American artifacts recovered over 40 years of excavations. The “abandoned houses” belonged to a community associated with the Mississippian culture. From approximately 800 to 1600 C.E., the Mississippians spread from their capital in Cahokia, near what is now East St. Louis, Illinois, north to the Great Lakes, south to the Gulf Coast, and as far east as Charleston, South Carolina. Little is known about the Mississippians, who had no written language, except for what was written down by de Soto’s scribes and a handful of other sources from early European colonizers. But the pottery and other artifacts they left behind speak to a highly sophisticated culture. 

Behind the museum is the mound where the village chief had his home, and the plaza where the Chucalissians gathered for communal events, including games of stickball. There’s even a replica Mississippian house, based on archeological studies of the community which once stood here. It all makes for a fascinating afternoon learning how the first Memphians lived. — Chris McCoy

Michael Donahue at the Peabody (Photo: Jon Sparks)

Stay at the Peabody

Part of a great trip for me is to stay at a grand old hotel. Something outstanding and beautiful that’s stood the test of time. A place with great restaurants. A hotel that reeks of elegance and stature.

You know. Like the Peabody Hotel.

People take staycations at the Peabody, says Kelly Brock, the hotel’s director of marketing and communications. “We promote ourselves locally, too,” she says.

In March, the hotel finished “a complete renovation of the lobby and the lobby bar.”

Brock suggests arriving at 4 p.m. Check in, and then hang out and have a cocktail at the lobby bar. Watch the live duck march at 5 p.m. Or take your drink upstairs and watch the sunset from the Peabody roof.

Have dinner at Chez Philippe, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant with a French presentation, or Capriccio Grill, the Italian steak house.

Start the next day with coffee or a Bloody Mary or mimosa when the bar opens at 10 a.m. Watch the duck march at 11 a.m. Then have brunch between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. in Capriccio Grill. Pick out something like Elvis or Priscilla would wear at one of the Lansky shops and get a massage or facial at Feathers Spa.

Pretend you’re in London with “Afternoon Tea,” which begins at 3:30 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays in Chez Philippe. Indulge yourself with tea sandwiches, warm scones with clotted cream and raspberry jam, petit fours, and cakes.

Guests who check in Thursday get free admission until 7 p.m. to the Peabody Rooftop Party, which features live music on Thursdays through August 15th. 

Note: No duck is served on any menu. But toy ducks are for sale at the South’s Grand Hotel. — Michael Donahue

Deanie Parker’s Grammy (Photo: Courtesy Stax Museum of American Soul Music)

Choose Your Own Adventure at Stax

The beauty of the Stax Museum of American Soul Music is that the relatively modest building on McLemore, built to the specs of the original theater’s blueprints, is a bit of a labyrinth. Not only can you wind through the pleasingly meandering exhibit space, music echoing around you, but you can imagine the demo studios and offices in the back, a hive of activity in its heyday. That’s where a lot of the action documented in last year’s CD set, Written in Their Soul: The Stax Songwriter Demos, went down. Now you can see Deanie Parker’s Grammy for it on display. 

Similarly, you can imagine the sparkling, thumping sound of the label’s classic records as you look over the reconstructed control room, with its one huge, mono playback speaker, or pace the gently sloping floor of the space where the instruments of Booker T. and the M.G.’s sit out, ready to resume their labors. It’s a vintage recording studio geek’s dream. 

There are many paths to choose, all ripe for rediscovery. Another favorite is the Isaac Hayes express, hopscotching between all exhibits pertinent to Black Moses, including his eye-popping desk and office décor, his growing activism with The Invaders empowerment group, and, of course, that Cadillac, still gleaming like a starship. 

On some days, I can barely get past the opening exhibit, so powerful and rich are its details. Welcoming visitors is a small country church from Duncan, Mississippi (home of Deanie Parker’s people), exuding history’s vibes like some lost Rosetta Stone. You can imagine hands passing over its wooden pews in the soft light of a thousand Sundays. As outgoing executive director Jeff Kollath said of the museum, “This is a people-driven endeavor, and this is a Memphis-people-driven endeavor.” — Alex Greene

Woodruff-Fontaine House Museum (Photo: Abigail Morici)

Meet the Woodruffs and Fontaines 

I had only ever stood outside the Woodruff-Fontaine House Museum on a ghost tour with Historical Haunts (a bonus staycation suggestion for you). So on a Wednesday, and on assignment for this staycation issue, I took myself there. Did I go in the hopes of seeing the spirit of Mollie Woodruff myself? Maybe. Did I succeed in that endeavor? No. Did I enjoy myself? Very much. 

Built in 1871, the house was home to two prominent families in Memphis history: first the Woodruffs and later the Fontaines. The building withstood yellow fever, had a stint as an art school, and outlasted other Victorian houses in the area which were knocked down in favor of urban renewal. Only a handful remain in the city. 

The Woodruff-Fontaine opened as a museum in the 1960s, thanks to the work of the Memphis Chapter of the Association for the Preservation of Tennessee Antiquities, and today it is furnished with period-appropriate artifacts and heirlooms that have been donated by Memphis and Mid-South families. (Don’t touch any of the antiques, though, because, as the signs will warn you, anyone who has ever touched them is now dead. Yikes.)

Photo: Abigail Morici

Notably, the organization has also amassed an impressive collection of textiles, which they display on rotation. Currently, there’s the “Southern Summers” exhibition, where you can learn how early Memphians kept their cool during those hot, hot days of summer, including how they dressed. (Ooh la la!)

Tours are self-guided, but the ever-knowledgeable staff are always around to answer any questions you may have. Seriously, the Woodruff-Fontaine has some delightful people (and an outdoor cat)! (Don’t know about the ghosts, though. They’re a little standoffish.) You’ll be able to see all three floors, and if you aren’t afraid of heights, head up to the tower and get a view of the Memphis skyline. It’s worth it.

Tours are available Wednesday to Sunday, noon to 4 p.m., with the last admission at 3:30 p.m. Oh, and the museum is often putting on events like Twilight Tours and magic shows, so check out their website at woodruff-fontaine.org for more information. — Abigail Morici 

Categories
Music Music Features

Piano Man

Wyly Bigger plays just about every notable piano in town in his video, “Hello, Is That You?”, from his recently-released album, Broken Telephone.

He tickles the ivories on the spinet at Earnestine & Hazel’s and at Sun Studio, and at the grand pianos at the Peabody Skyway and the Orpheum Theatre, to name a few.

The first piano he ever played, though, was a “just a little Fisher Price kid’s piano,” says Bigger, 26.

A native of Marion, Arkansas, Bigger began picking out songs on the piano by ear when he was three. The little piano was “just a plastic, bright, and colorful thing. It probably had 10 keys on it.”

It belonged to his sister, singer-songwriter Bailey Bigger, but “she didn’t take to it at all. She could care less about it. I kind of took it over.”

Wyly’s parents bought an old piano that their church wasn’t using and put Wyly in piano lessons.

He began taking Suzuki-method piano lessons when he was 4 at the University of Memphis. “I wasn’t a huge fan of it. Just because I wanted to play by ear and I wanted to do more. Even from a long time ago I loved Elvis and Jerry Lee. That kind of music.”

Wyly even adopted the Elvis look. “For Halloween in first grade I was Elvis. My grandma sewed me a gold suit to wear like Elvis.”

Wyly Bigger (Photos: Michael Donahue)

He also began wearing gel in his hair. “I think we even got some temporary black hair dye from the party store to make it really look like Elvis.”

His next teacher made him learn music, but he also encouraged him to play by ear.

Wyly’s first public performance was playing rock-and-roll on his keyboard at Big John’s Shake Shack (now Tacker’s Shake Shop) in Marion when he was 9 years old. He continued to play there every other week when he was in high school.

He began writing instrumentals when he was about 14. “South Side of Southern,” which was “about growing up in Marion,” was his first song with lyrics.

Wyly didn’t want to sing at first. “I was terrified to sing. I didn’t like it at all.”

His piano teacher encouraged him to start singing along while he played piano during lessons.“I kind of ripped the Band-Aid off.”

Wyly majored in marketing at Mississippi State University, but he continued to play piano at night at local watering holes.

After he graduated, Wyly went to work for a marketing agency and, later, at Marion’s Sultana Disaster Museum.

But he continued to play music in public. Last July, he decided to quit his job and do nothing but music.

He began playing piano in the lobby at the Peabody, where he still plays on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays. “The Peabody is a lot of everything. Outside of rock-and-roll and ’50s soul and R&B stuff, I also really love the old jazz standards. Like Cole Porter and George Gershwin-type songs.”

In 2020, Wyly recorded a self-titled EP of his songs. “Back in Love” — “just a story of unrequited love.” — got the most streams.

He describes the EP, which he and Bailey produced, as a “rock-and-roll Fats Domino-swing-type of thing. I had drums, bass, keys, guitar, and sax.” He recorded the EP at Memphis Magnetic Recording Co. with Scott McEwen doing the engineering and mixing.

Bailey, who sang background vocals on the EP, performed with Wyly on occasion back in the day at their church and at the Shake Shack. They’re both on the Madjack Records label.

He began recording his new album in May of 2023. “It took a while just ’cause we hired a team of musicians and we had to work around their schedules.”

The album features Danny Banks on drums, Jim Spake on saxophone, Mark Edgar Stuart (who produced the album) on bass, and Matt Ross-Spang on guitar.

The idea to have Wyly playing pianos all over Memphis “was all Landon Moore. He filmed, directed, and edited the whole video. He’s a bass player in town. He plays with Cyrena Wages and Marcella [Simien].”

One of Wyly’s favorite pianos is the grand piano at the Peabody Skyway. “I love to play that piano and picture myself up in one of the live big band dances they had back in the ’40s.”

He knocked all those piano pedals while wearing his black-and-white Royal Wind spectator shoes. “I bought those things at a thrift store in Starkville when I was in college”

And, he says, “I tell you, they’re a conversation piece. I can’t wear them without somebody saying, ‘Man, where did you get those shoes? Those are amazing.’”

Wyly likes to wear the shoes at the Peabody. “It will turn heads and maybe get me tips. Anytime I dress up, I’m typically going to wear those.”

To view the “Hello, Is That You?” music video, go to tinyurl.com/yckwu33k. Wyly Bigger will perform Friday, May 31st,
7 p.m., at Hernando’s Hideaway.

Categories
News The Fly-By

MEMernet: Hijacked and Tweet of the Week

Memphis on the internet.

Hijacked

Someone — we’re guessing the guy above — apparently hijacked Brother Juniper’s Instagram account this month. A stream of delicious food photos was interrupted by three photos of the guy above. Then, the account went completely dark with an ominous note: “This account for sale. Contact DM.” The page has now been removed. 

Tweet of the Week

Posted to Twitter by St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital
Categories
News News Blog

Marilyn Belz Dies

Noted philanthropist Marilyn Belz, 91, who, along with her husband of 72 years, Jack Belz, created an indelible legacy of giving in the arts, education, civic endeavors, and their Jewish faith, died Tuesday from complications of COVID-19.  belz.com

Marilyn and Jack Belz

A life-long Memphian, Mrs. Belz (nee Hanover) attended Idlewild Elementary, Fairview Junior High, and Central High School, as well as Ward-Belmont College and Memphis State. She and Jack Belz were married in 1948 at the Peabody Hotel, long before the Belzes bought and reinvented the legendary hotel in the 1970s, in what was arguably the single most important factor in the revitalization of Downtown Memphis.

There are few cultural institutions in Memphis that have not received generous gifts from the Belz family through the years. The couple founded the Belz Museum of Asian and Judaic Art in Downtown Memphis, which features a remarkable collection of jade and stone sculpture and other artworks, as well an exhibit on the Holocaust. The Belzes also gave generously to many Jewish institutions in the United States and in Israel, including the Memphis Jewish Home & Rehab Center and Yeshiva University in New York City, now home to the Belz School of Jewish Music.
 

In a statement released by the Belz family Wednesday, Marilyn Belz was cited for her “beauty, kindness, and graciousness. She sparkled at every event or occasion she and her husband Jack attended. … She was a joy to meet and an instantaneous maker of life-long friends. Everyone adored her.”

Congressman Steve Cohen said, “She did so much for Memphis in the arts and for charities, but she’ll be remembered best as a great mother, a great wife, and a sweet person. They were a great team. She and Jack had a wonderful marriage.”

Marilyn Belz is survived by her husband, Jack Belz; children Marty (Julie) Belz, Gary (Shelly) Belz, Ron (Anise) Belz, and Jan (Andy) Groveman; 13 grandchildren and their spouses; and 12 great-grandchildren. She was predeceased by a daughter, Lynn Belz.

Jack Belz is a long-standing board member of Contemporary-Media Inc., the parent company of the Memphis Flyer. 

Categories
News The Fly-By

MEMernet: Reddit Bonanza!

Memphis dazzled on Reddit last week. Here are just a few examples.

Interesting as Duck

A gif of the Peabody Hotel duck march made the front page in a post to the r/interestingasfuck subreddit. In 24 hours, the post had more than 87,500 upvotes, 1,200 comments, and the gif had been viewed 3.5 million times.

Murica

This old (2019) tweet resurfaced over on the r/Murica subreddit.

This. This right here.

The winner of the snarkiest bumper sticker in Memphis goes to …

Posted to r/memphis by u/betweenthewinds

Categories
We Recommend We Recommend

Taste of Tradition: Jack Daniel’s Dinner at Peabody

Peabody Hotel celebrates its 150th anniversary this year, offering room package deals, selling special merchandise, and hosting events like the upcoming Jack Daniel’s Tasting and Dinner.

“Without Jack Daniel’s, there might not be Peabody ducks,” says Kelly Brock, director of marketing and communications at The Peabody Memphis. “It was Jack Daniel’s that our general manager Frank Schutt and his friend Chip Barwick were drinking in 1933 when they decided to play a prank and put ducks in the fountain.”

Peabody Memphis

Whiskey off a duck’s back

The ducks have been a staple in the hotel ever since this event, often referred to as “the taste that started a tradition.”

“Over the years, we’ve created a connection between ourselves and Jack Daniel’s,” says Brock. “We have now had two teams of ducks that have retired to the Jack Daniel’s distillery’s cave spring. So they swim around in the same water that is used to make Jack Daniel’s, and they feed off the corn from the back of the truck.”

On the 75th anniversary of the Peabody ducks in 2008, The Peabody and Jack Daniel’s developed an official partnership when Jack Daniel’s began supplying single barrels of whiskey, carefully selected by the hotel staff with the guests in mind, called Jack Daniel’s Peabody Select Single Barrel.

The whiskey has been a centerfold in the hotel’s menu ever since, and now, JD’s Master Distiller Jeff Arnett leads a drink tasting, featuring the Jack Daniel’s Peach Sour, limited edition whiskeys (including Jack Daniel’s own 150th anniversary variety), and whiskey-inspired hors d’oeuvres. Afterward, guests will enjoy a three-course dinner paired with whiskey-infused glazes and sauces.

Jack Daniel’s Tasting and Dinner, The Peabody Memphis, Thursday, November 7th, 6-10 p.m., $150.

Categories
Cover Feature News

On the Clock: Memphis Animals Who Put in a Day’s Work

My three dogs haven’t worked a day in their lives. Unless you consider napping, eating, and demanding lovin’s work. That’s my oldest boy, Doogie Howser, on the cover. (Shout-out to Hollywood Feed for providing his cover-worthy wardrobe.) He’s 9 years old, and he is the very best boy. Doogie’s brought me — and, I’m certain, all who’ve encountered him — so much joy (and unsolicited slobbery kisses), so, in that sense, you could say he has put in some work. He also provided crucial insight and editorial assistance for this cover story and is awaiting his paycheck.

We thought it’d be cool to search the city for other animals putting in the time — to brighten people’s days, relieve anxiety, greet guests, or entertain the masses. We found dogs (lots of dogs), cats, ducks, fish, and even goats working various jobs in Memphis. We hope you’ll enjoy — as much as we did — getting to know more about these hard workers and how they keep business going around town. — Shara Clark

Bee Garriott/Facebook

Bee

Bee

“People come in here just to see her,” says Martha Garriott. “They know her name, and they don’t know mine.” Garriott’s referring to her toy poodle, Bee, the unofficial supervisor at Urban Earth Garden Center. Bee’s smaller than many of the lawn ornaments and flower pots the center sells, but she’s doing big, important work. From her post — a comfy bed, layered with toys, atop a tall chair behind the counter — she oversees the store. “Any time I ring up a sale, I have to put her in the chair to get on the register because she’ll bark if I don’t,” Garriott says. “She has to watch me to make sure I do it correctly.”

Bee, a former champion show dog and breeding dog, was rescued by Garriott three years ago and has been working at Urban Earth since 2017. Her duties include greeting customers (who often bring her treats and toys), modeling products for the center’s Facebook page, and providing pet therapy to her co-workers.

When Garriott first brought her home, she says, “Bee had never been on grass, she didn’t know what grass was. She had never been allowed to jump, and I don’t think she knew how to bark, she was so quiet for so long. But she’s got a very good life now. Everybody loves her.” — Shara Clark

Say hi to Bee at Urban Earth Garden Center, 80 Flicker Street.

The Peabody Memphis

Peabody Ducks

Peabody Ducks

Just like clockwork, every day at 5 p.m., after six hours of paddling around in the Peabody Hotel lobby fountain, the illustrious Peabody ducks are ready to retire to their posh Duck Palace on the rooftop. Their “valet,” head Duckmaster Doug Weatherford, steps down before the crowd of eager children and families to announce the ducks’ march back upstairs.

“All that remains is to play the John Philip Sousa ‘King Cotton March’ and march our five feathered friends single-file up the red carpet into that elevator en route to the palace on the rooftop,” he proclaims. “You, too, will have been an eyewitness to the world-famous march of the Peabody ducks!”

The five mallards — one brightly colored male and four females — step onto the red carpet and march back to their humble abode, where they will live for 90 days before they are sent back out into the wild and five of their friends come to take their place. Until then, this team of ducks will continue to enjoy their five-star Peabody Hotel experience, complete with room service — we hear the ducks turn their beaks up at iceberg lettuce, so they receive the finest romaine — and personal showers dealt by Weatherford himself.

“They’re wild animals, so we don’t give them names, and they only ‘work’ for us for 90 days,” says Weatherford. “Our object here is to make sure that they’re healthy and that they remain as unchanged as possible.” — Julia Baker

Watch the ducks march (11 a.m. and 5 p.m. daily) at The Peabody Memphis, 118 S. Second.

T. Clifton Gallery

Argus

Argus

A low bark — almost a grunt — was heard when I entered T. Clifton Art and Custom Framing Gallery. The sound came from a huge ball of fur on the floor. It was Argus, a chocolate St. Bernard who, at the age of 10, is a Broad Avenue legend. The gallery even sells T-shirts bearing Argus’ likeness.

“He’s come to work with me every day since he was 7 weeks old,” says gallery owner Tom Clifton. And this is a gallery filled with glassware, some items priced at thousands of dollars, on open shelves. “Ever since he was a puppy, he’s never broken a thing.”

Argus isn’t a guard dog per se, but he “senses things I don’t,” Clifton says. He’ll let out a “woof, almost a grunt,” which is fitting because Clifton named Argus after a mythological Greek “warrior guard.” Argus, who’s been in FedEx TV commercials and various fashion shoots and brought cheer to nursing homes, is recognized when Clifton goes out.

The first time Clifton saw Argus, he was in a pen with other puppies. Argus walked up to the side of the pen, put his paw on the edge, and stared at him. “That was it,” Clifton says. “From that moment, we’ve been inseparable.” — Michael Donahue

Visit Argus at T. Clifton Art and Custom Framing Gallery, 571 Broad Avenue.

Bruce VanWyngarden

The Goats of Beale

The Goats of Beale

Angelina and Zena are a pair of 5-year-old goats who patrol the west side of the patio at Silky O’Sullivan’s on Beale. They are the fourth pair of goats to inhabit the famed joint since it opened in 1992, a result of a brainstorm by the club’s legendary founder, the late Silky Sullivan. “A goat named Puck is part of Irish mythology,” says club senior manager Jay Wells. “And Silky thought goats would be a great fit for the club. And they have been. People come from far and wide to see them, and they love visitors.”

The goats’ quarters, which include ramps and steps and private spaces, are separated from the customers by a couple of fences, mostly to keep patrons from feeding them or, worse, giving them beer. But Wells let me get up close and personal with A and Z, and let me tell you, they are the sweetest animals you could imagine, affectionate and curious and more than happy to nuzzle faces with their visitor.

“They have a better health plan than I do,” says Wells. “The vet comes regularly to trim their hooves and horns and check them out. They come from a goat farm near Atoka, which is where they retire at some point.”

And what do they eat? “Purina Goat Chow,” says Wells. Well, that, and the saltine crackers I gave them.

— Bruce VanWyngarden

Meet Angelina and Zena at Silky O’Sullivan’s, 183 Beale Street.

Jesse Davis

Zen

Zen

It’s the most common trope in comic books — the traumatic origin story. Wolverine underwent horrible experiments. Ditto Rocket Raccoon, X-23, and the Winter Soldier. Well, real-life comic dog Zen might have them all beat.

“We think she was a bait dog because her ears are clipped, and they’re not professionally clipped. And she had gnarly scars on her head and her legs. She’s filling in now, but she was skinny. She was rough,” says Shannon Merritt, co-owner of 901 Comics and 901 Games and dog-father to Zen.

Like Professor X giving Wolverine a home, Merritt found Zen at Memphis Animal Shelter, whisked her away, and gave her a new home and a new purpose — to patrol the aisles of the comic store, nosing out head-scratches and belly-rubs from customers.

Patrons of 901 Comics will doubtless remember M.J., the mascot of Merritt’s Bad Dog Comics line, who lost her battle with cancer in the winter of 2018. “I had a real tough time when M.J. passed,” Merritt says, though Zen is doing her best to fill the pit-bull-sized hole in his heart. The pair stick together and support each other. “She comes with me whenever I’m working,” Merritt says. “She’s okay with everybody coming in here.” — Jesse Davis

Rub Zen’s belly at 901 Comics, 2162 Young Avenue.

Metal Museum

Spatz

Metal Museum

Mr. Fuller

Spatz and Mr. Fuller

If there’s a sweeter gig than bookstore cat, it can only be museum cat. What better way to pass the time than to pad about the museum grounds keeping an eye out for pests — or for friendly tourists willing to bestow belly rubs? Indeed, resident Metal Museum cats Spatz and Mr. Fuller have it made in the shade. Mr. Fuller is a lazy tabby who showed up in 2008, and Spatz, the wilder of the two, is a black cat who made his first appearance in 2015.

Don’t be fooled by their sweet gig, though, the cats do work. They’re mascots, says youth initiative coordinator Darcie Beeman-Black, who has incorporated the cats into the educational materials for youth groups, like the “I Spy” program and Spatz’s scavenger hunt. Even the cats’ names are teaching tools. “A fuller is a tool in the blacksmith’s shop. It’s a peg that fits perfectly into a slot of the same size, and they use it to make curves in metal,” Beeman-Black explains. “Spatz is the protective covering you wear over your shoes in the foundry. They named him Spatz because when he was a kitten, he was always at your feet.

“They are tough cats. They’re in the shop a lot,” Beeman-Black adds. When they aren’t in the shop, they can be seen lounging around the grounds. Mr. Fuller can usually be found near the sculpture of an ant. “You can just walk up to him and scratch his belly,” Beeman-Black says. “He’s really sweet.” — Jesse Davis

See Spatz and Mr. Fuller at the Metal Museum, 374 Metal Museum Drive.

Jon Sparks

Molly

Molly

Molly greeted me at the door to All About Bikes with a wag and a cold nose. “Come in,” she said, “and try out one of our Baja Trikes. They’re a nice, easy ride for Boomers.” I glared at her: “Are you saying I’m old?” I barked. She looked back with kindly, soulful eyes and nuzzled me saying, “It’s okay, I’m 12 years old, so I’m sympathetic. We can get you a comfortable seat as well.”

I harrumphed and looked at Tommy James, the shop’s co-owner and devoted minion to Molly. Ignoring my snit, he explained the store was formerly All About Pets, and you can see the one-time resident dog Shelby memorialized on the back wall. The mission changed, but a canine presence was preserved, and sweet, laid-back Molly has the run of the place, sometimes going out front to take in the air and receive visitors who often will come by just to say hi to her. Tommy doesn’t seem to take offense. I scratch Molly behind the ears and say, “Okay, you got something in a comfort bike?” She gives me a nudge. “Walk this way,” she says. “I got you.”

— Jon W. Sparks

Let Molly assist you at All About Bikes, 621 S. Mendenhall.

Bass Pro

Bass Pro

Fish, Ducks, and Alligators (Oh my!)

“There he is! There’s the surgeon!” That was the cry from a youthful visitor to the Bass Pro Shops at the Pyramid during a visit last week. The lad, who was eager to communicate his excitement to a group of peers being squired by adults, was no doubt a vacationer from elsewhere, like many, perhaps most, of the visitors to the Memphis riverside attraction.

The young man was verbally mistaken; there was no doctor swimming in the pool where he was pointing. But there was a bona fide sturgeon — a big fish that was clearly an exotic being, a long, silver eminence among the dark lesser spawn swimming in the murky waters on the Pyramid floor. It’s not the dolphins at SeaWorld, but these aquatic creatures are an attraction all the same for the people who come to the Bass Pro Pyramid, not only to purchase outdoors ware but, it would seem, to get a whiff of the natural outdoors world while they’re at it.

The fish are real; so are the ducks in another pool, and the alligators swimming in a tank near the elevator. There are other wild creatures on view at Bass Pro — bears, moose, wild boars, for example, but these are stuffed animals or facsimiles of the real thing. Not working stiffs like the fish and the ducks. Just plain stiffs. But they all, real or fabricated, earn their keep.

— Jackson Baker

See the creatures of the great outdoors indoors at Bass Pro Shops, 1 Bass Pro Drive.

Maya Smith

Axel

Axel

While brothers Darin and Josh Throndson are busy making teeth and other dental supplies at Innovative Dental Technologies’ lab in Crosstown Concourse, Axel, their chocolate brown cane corso, is there for moral support. Only a year old, Axel already weighs about 120 pounds. He’s giant but gentle, they say.

The brothers say tug-of-war is one of his favorite pastimes. He also enjoys the dog park on the Crosstown campus. But, their friendly companion spends most of the work day sleeping. And he’s a snorer. The brothers say the snoring is sometimes distracting but a reliable source of laughter.

Since Crosstown is dog-friendly, Axel comes to work every day with the brothers, who work long hours, sometimes 60 hours a week. “He’s good company and it’s allowed, so why not bring him?”

He’s been coming to the lab since he was a puppy. The brothers carried him to the fourth-floor office in a laundry basket until he was big enough to walk. When Crosstown regulars see Axel now, they are surprised that this is the same dog that had to be carried in a basket, the brothers say.

— Maya Smith

Axel’s hard at work at Innovative Dental Technologies, 1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 450.

Daniel McGarry

Buster

Buster

When I walk into Clearview Family Eyecare, Buster is on the receiving end of joyful head-scratches being doled out by a curly-haired toddler while her parents finalize their appointment. According to his owner, Dr. Seth Salley, he’s the clinic’s Chief Happiness Officer or CHO.

His primary duty, aside from rigorous napping, is greeting people. “When he hears somebody walk in, he comes out and sniffs them and says hi,” Salley says. “And then he sits on people’s feet.” His presence also tends to take the edge off for nervous patients. “I had an autistic kid in here a couple of weeks ago, and he was talking to Buster and me. When we got through the exam, his mom said, ‘I don’t know what happened, but he never talks to doctors … I think it was Buster.’ He just has that effect.”

Buster, 5, is an English Springer Spaniel imported from Sweden by breeders in Mason, Tennessee. “He was a breeding prospect, but they told me, ‘He’s so laid-back, he won’t breed.'” He’s been working as Clearview’s online mascot, welcome crew, and calming agent since he was adopted six months ago. His Swedish export pedigree papers list his given name as Big Brazzel Dragon Fly, but at the request of Salley’s kids, they renamed him Buster, after Andy’s dog in Toy Story. — SC

Feel Buster’s serenity at Clearview Family Eyecare, 618 Oakleaf Office Lane, #100.

Toby Sells

Lucy

Lucy

When Lucy does her job, there are no good options. “If you’re right, it’s bad,” says K9 Officer Brian Jenkins. “If you’re wrong, it’s bad, just in a different way.”

Lucy is a German Wirehaired Pointer, a stocky, beautiful dog with a gray/chocolate coat. Brimming with energy, she bursts through a door at Memphis International Airport, and her nose immediately goes to the ground. Over a bag, behind the gate desk, and up and down the rows of empty seats, Lucy hunts bombs. Lucy was trained at Lackland Air Force Base. Some of her kennel mates joined the military, sniffing out explosives in Iraq and Afghanistan. Lucy met Jenkins and came to Memphis, keeping the airport here safe with the Transportation Security Administration.

After a few more sniffs, Lucy sits. Jenkins throws her a tennis ball, pets her head, and praises her good work. It was a training exercise, of course. If it was real, only bad options would be left. It’s either a “multi-million-dollar mistake” to dump the concourse, re-screen passengers, and recall aircraft, or, “there’s a bomb in my airport,” Jenkins says. Lucy just thinks she’s playing, though. Yes, she goes home with Jenkins at night. And, yes, “she has her own bedroom.” But, no, you should not pet Lucy. She’s working to keep you safe, and pets from strangers aren’t part of her training. — Toby Sells

See Lucy in action — no touching, please! — at Memphis International Airport, 2491 Winchester Road.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Capriccio’s BBQ Salad in a Jar

Capriccio Grill at The Peabody has a new concept for their lunch menu, “Modern Southern Comfort.” There are daily specials (beef brisket on Mondays, fried chicken on Wednesdays), as well as Southern staples such as shrimp & grits, fried green tomatoes, and deviled eggs.

One of the new items on the menu, BBQ Salad in a Mason Jar ($10). Hey, we’re in the South, so why not put our salads in a mason jar? I love it and the mason jar gives the dish charm.

The mason jar is filled with braised turkey shank, kidney beans, coleslaw, BBQ dressing, and comes with two large pieces of hearts of romaine lettuce.

Everything is layered, so I mixed it all together. The first thing that stands out is how creamy the coleslaw is. The braised turkey shank is nice and sweet. You really don’t taste the BBQ sauce, and there’s more coleslaw than meat. However the size of the dish is deceptive. It looks small but there’s a lot of food in the jar. I was full when I was done.

This is pretty much a yummy BBQ sandwich without the bread. I actually forked a little bit of everything out of the Mason Jar and put it right on top of the pieces of lettuce. It’s a creative, mini lettuce BBQ sandwich. Don’t let the fact that this menu item is under the salad section fool you. It’s far from a salad!

Categories
Cover Feature News

Godless In Memphis

Last September, WMC-TV news anchor Joe Birch turned to the camera and told his viewers that Memphians were “raging” because the Peabody Hotel was hosting a “controversial” convention over Easter weekend. “American Atheists are coming, and with them a guest speaker from the Satanic Temple,” Birch warned, before tossing the story to reporter Sasha Jones, who further framed the event as a “slap in the face,” to area Christians.

Nobody at Channel 5 differentiated between satanists and atheists. Neither did anybody clarify that members of the Satanic Temple aren’t devil worshipers either. The Temple was founded by activists who use parody, public sculpture, and satirical coloring books to defend the separation of church and state.

WMC’s breathless appeal to viewer emotions, conflating atheism with satanic activity, was a textbook example of what Danielle Muscato, public relations director for American Atheists describes as “the stigma.”

Danielle Muscato

“People have this opinion that you can’t possibly be moral if you don’t believe in God,” Muscato says. “And this isn’t a just a passive conclusion that they come up with on their own, it’s something that is actively being taught to religious people by religious leaders.”

Muscato’s comments are in line with the findings in a 2012 University of British Columbia (UBC) study published by the Journal of Personal and Social Psychology. The study showed that nonbelievers, one of America’s fastest growing demographics, is also one of the nation’s most misunderstood and mistrusted groups. The UBC study found that 55 percent of religious people wouldn’t vote for an atheist political candidate, no matter how qualified he or she might be. They don’t want their children marrying atheists, and in some cases Americans are even more likely to trust rapists over nonbelievers.

Study co-author, Will Gervais, has described the antipathy toward atheists as being especially “striking” since this isn’t a visible or politically powerful group.

Evidence of that distrust and antipathy surfaced recently in a highly publicized rant by Phil Robertson of Duck Dynasty fame. Robertson, a vocal Christian, spoke at a prayer breakfast in Florida and shared a terrifying parable about an atheist who’s bound to a chair and forced to watch while two men molest and murder his daughters and his wife.

“You’re the one who says there is no God, there’s no right, there’s no wrong,” Robertson’s imaginary rapists tell the atheist, after cutting off the man’s hypothetical “manhood.”

“Our national conventions are always on Easter weekend,” Muscato says, dispelling any rumors that the date was chosen as a personal affront to Robertson or anybody else celebrating the holiday. “We choose Easter for practical reasons: We can get a great deal on hotel and convention space. And we’re atheists, so we don’t have anything else to do.”

Peabody Hotel publicist Kelly Brock Earnest corroborates Muscato’s story. She describes the atheist booking as a “good piece of business” for a holiday weekend that is a historically slow time for local convention and hospitality industries. “For us, this is like hosting a Canadian group over the Fourth of July. It’s not their holiday.”

Some local media may have attempted to induce an old-fashioned satanic panic, but Muscato says Memphis and the Peabody have made the group feel welcome. “The Peabody is the first hotel that’s ever wanted our business,” he says. “Because we’re an atheist group, it’s not unusual for people to be wary of working with us. Sometimes they just outright decline to work with us.”

“Business as usual” is how Earnest describes the relationship. “We don’t discriminate for religious reasons. We’ve hosted all kinds of groups: Methodist, Baptist, Jewish, and others.”

From the Peabody’s perspective, the Easter atheists represent almost 1,000 “room nights,” filling half the hotel at its peak. “It’s good for Memphis,” Earnest says. “This is a group that doesn’t have a lot of evening events scheduled, so you know they’ll be going out to Beale Street and eating in downtown restaurants.”

American Atheists and its outspoken president, David Silverman, have been known to openly court controversy. This spring, for example, while Tennessee lawmakers worked in relative obscurity on HB566, a measure that empowers medical students with strong religious convictions to say no to ideas and patients they object to, the 51-year-old advocacy group for non-believers made headlines with one of its irreverent billboard campaigns.

The “Looks like we’re skipping church again!” slogan that appeared on billboards in Memphis got American Atheists banned in Nashville for being disrespectful. “We were told that using the words “Easter” and “church” was aggressive and offensive to another group,” Muscato says, allowing that there must be a different set of standards governing another towering billboards in the Nashville suburb of Portland, Tennessee, that quotes a flagrantly anti-gay passage from the book of Leviticus: “Thou shalt not lie with a man as with a woman. It is an abomination.”

Tweaking theists isn’t the only thing American Atheists does, nor is it the group’s primary objective. The national conventions, like the one being held in Memphis this week, promote the concept of an atheist community and serves to remind those who feel isolated after leaving religion that they aren’t alone.

Muscato describes the American Atheists’ convention as having a “party atmosphere.” There’s a costume component. Comedians are scheduled to entertain. Actors Trace Beaulieu and Frank Conniff, best known for their various roles in the sci-fi comedy show Mystery Science Theater 3000, will perform a live show riffing on the film God’s Not Dead starring former Hercules actor Kevin Sorbo.

The convention, which runs April 2nd-5th, also boasts an educational component. “We have 30 or 40 of the biggest names in atheism speaking about various topics,” Muscato says. Notable guests include Dr. Paul Offit, author of Bad Faith: When Religious Belief Undermines Modern Medicine, and controversial Somali-born women’s rights activist and Harvard fellow Ayaan Hirsi Ali, the convention’s keynote speaker. Ali’s dramatic personal story and commitment to women’s justice issues are as compelling as her uncompromising views on Islam are divisive.

Reuters | Tobias Schwarz

2015 National Convention

Godless in Memphis

“Where do you go to church?”

If you live anywhere in the Bible Belt, you’re probably familiar with this line of inquiry. It’s one of those little “getting to know you” questions Southerners ask, right alongside, “Where ya from?” and “What do you do?”

It’s a question that, according to a Pew Research poll, more and more Americans are having trouble answering. One-fifth of the U.S. public and a full third of adults under 30 now describe themselves as being religiously unaffiliated. Six percent of all adults describe themselves as being atheist or agnostic. The newly irreligious trend younger. They’re more likely to be single white males. Income and education levels are in line with the general population, though fully committed atheists and agnostics are more likely to have at least one college degree. Geographically speaking, non-religious Americans are more scattered than one might imagine, though the density is greatest in Western states. And, as one might expect, the numbers drop considerably in the South, which is more heavily populated with evangelical protestants.

That’s what makes the “Where do you go to church” question tricky, because many members of this small but growing population choose to remain at least partially closeted due to a lingering stigma brought about by generations of religion-fueled mistrust and misunderstanding. According to one member of the Memphis Atheists meetup group, it’s sometimes even more difficult for African Americans to live openly as atheists. The African-American church played such a large role in the civil rights movement that, for the faithful, leaving religion is seen as a double betrayal.

Chris Davis

David Lieberman and Jason Grosser

It’s difficult to gage how many atheists live in Memphis. But as Jason Grosser of the Memphis Freethought Alliance says, the best way to push back against preconceived ideas is to be open and engage people. What follows is a snapshot of Godless Memphis based on interviews with a handful of atheists, humanists, and irreligious people who live here.

Recovery

Nick Saites wanted his traditional 12-step recovery program to work. “I wasn’t resistant to the idea of humbling myself in any way,” he says, recalling how difficult it was to communicate with his sponsor, a Christian man who volunteered to walk Saites through the steps and always brought the conversation back to Jesus Christ. “I literally got down on my knees in front of my bathroom toilet exactly as my sponsor instructed,” Saites, a research assistant at the UT Health Science Center, recalls. “I put my hands together right there in the bathroom and I said the prayer that he asked me to pray.”

But no matter how perfectly Saites went through the motions, nothing changed. He knew he was just another alcoholic kneeling in front of the toilet.

“My sponsor and I got to a point where we couldn’t have a single conversation that didn’t have something to do with God. I tried to make it work for me. I’d say ‘Okay, God is the wisdom of the group.’ My sponsor fired me. He literally told me, ‘I’m firing you!’

“I come from a family with addictive behaviors,” Saites says, recounting his own struggle, the multiple blackouts he suffered, and a desperate decision to seek help. “I was afraid for my life, my sanity, my well being, and my quality of life for my future. It was all dependant on the next course of action that I took. Someone in that state, whose beliefs are already congruent can come into a 12-step program and it’s optimal. But for somebody who doesn’t have those beliefs, it can be a very dangerous place.”

Unable to locate any secular meeting groups in the region, Saites decided to start his own. He also founded Memphis Comprehensive Recovery Network (MemphisCRN.org) with the help of two previously existing programs, Secular Organization for Sobriety (SOS), and SMART Recovery, a self-management and recovery training program.

“We’ve averaged about eight people a meeting,” Saites says. He estimates that as many as 200 people have sampled his program since it launched in 2014. “A lot of people don’t show back up after the first meeting, but that’s true of support groups generally. What we do know now is that there’s a demand for this kind of group in Memphis.”

Party Wing

The Memphis Atheists group describes itself as “the party wing” of Memphis’ godless community. The group, which has more than 600 Facebook contacts but only about 40 dues-paying members, organizes good movie nights, bad movie nights, and Dungeons & Dragons nights. They also organize frequent meetups that take place at area restaurants and bars like Schweinehaus, Wiseacre, and LBOE, where members can get together for drinks and conversation. Although the community defines itself by its disbelief, religion and atheism are less likely to be discussed than topics related to the latest craft beers and where one might find the best handmade spanakopita.

Oompah music blares and beer steins clink together at Schweinehaus, a German restaurant on Overton Square, as it fills up for the dinner rush. In comparatively hushed tones, a man sitting at the end of the Memphis Atheists’ table recounts the time when his children started expressing their own doubts about God. “I told them to keep their mouths shut,” he says, describing their suburban neighborhood and school as a potentially unfriendly environment for atheists.

Chris Davis

Liz Hoffmaster

He’s immediately scolded by his friend Liz Hoffmaster, an area nurse, and an out and proud nonbeliever. She runs the Memphis Atheists meetup website and has watched the group grow and evolve.

“Nearly everybody who joined the Memphis Atheists group was raised religiously,” Hoffmaster says. “It’s very rare to find someone in the South who wasn’t raised with religion. Inevitably, at their first meetup, they want to tell their story about coming out of religion, and so they do and we say, “Oh that’s cute, we don’t like that either. And then we get on to the party, which is what it’s really all about.”

Hoffmaster describes the Memphis Atheists meetup group as being mostly younger people, though there appears to be considerable age, race, and gender diversity. “When I first took over the group, most of the members came from somewhere else. Now a surprising number come from Memphis,” she says. “Many of them are still afraid to be open with their family and work.

“There’s a lot of social awkwardness,” Hoffmaster says of Memphis Atheists. “And there’s a lot of fun. … The friends I have made through the group are more like family than my actual family.”

Dating Games

Paul Ringger couldn’t find a date. Not in Memphis, anyway. Not using online dating services. It didn’t matter that he’s a smart, accomplished guy, who’s traveled around the world twice. The data didn’t line up. This is, apparently, a common lament for nonbelievers seeking nonbelievers in the South.

Ringger’s a lifelong Memphian. He was raised in the Lutheran church and attended religiously affiliated schools, but he says he’s not sure that he ever believed in God.

“I’ve been an altar boy, I have experience,” says Ringger, whose family owned a bookstore, providing him with uncommon access to information even in the dark days before the internet. He also grew up across the street from his uncle, William Eggleston, the celebrated photographer and famous bon viviant.

He developed a questioning, occasionally combative nature that made some people uncomfortable, including his Sunday school teachers. One adult even accused him of being, “possessed by demons,” when she heard he’d been talking about Eastern religions. “I could be a little disruptive,” he says.

Ringger occasionally attends church and sings from the hymnal. He finds value in cultural literacy and sometimes takes advantage of volunteer programs at Calvary Episcopal.

“Volunteering isn’t a big part of my life,” he says, but allows that civically minded churches like Calvary can be a welcoming place for humanists who want to help out and a good place for believers and nonbelievers to mingle while making breakfast for the homeless.

“Every time someone asked, ‘What church do you go to,’  I would tell them I don’t believe in God. I’m an atheist really.’ Good conversations resulted.”

After his divorce, Ringger started looking into online dating services like eHarmony and OkCupid. He wanted to meet new people with a similar cultural background and see what it might be like to go out on dates in the Memphis area with people who shared his interests. “I did a questionnaire for eHarmony. I’d seen it on TV and thought I’d check it out,” Ringger says. “They said, ‘Sorry there’s no one compatible with you on here.’

“I’m a nerd,” Ringger says, laying out his next move. He went online and found user forums that collected data from dating sites related to things like education, religion, and how far a person has traveled from their home over the course of his or her life. Using that information, he created a series of dating maps. And then he combined them in photoshop in order to discover just how far he’d have to travel for a match.

“It was like I lived in this black hole,” he says, describing what the map told him about his pitiful hometown prospects.

It’s not all bad news for nonbelievers looking for a date online. OkCupid ran an analysis of 500,000 first contacts and discovered that mentioning one’s religion helps, but paradoxically, it helps atheists more than believers.

Un-Church

What’s the biggest myth about atheists? Jason Grosser, the driving force behind Memphis Freethought Alliance (MFA), says he thinks it’s that all atheists are out to destroy religion.

“I think people would be surprised by how many of them are strong supporters of religious liberty.” Grosser allows that every group has its fundamentalists and firebrands, but finds that the majority of people he encounters just want religion out of government.

Grosser, a behavioral analyst and consultant by trade, says he’s thankful for his religious friends. “They give me tips,” he says, enjoying both the irony, and the perspective. “When I’ve complained about certain growing pains [with the group], my friends have assured me that small churches go through all the same problems.”

The MFA is a not-for-profit organization that creates opportunities for the variously unaffiliated to find community and intellectual stimulation. The group holds two book club meetings weekly, and two “Occam’s Cafe” groups, where participants discuss current events.

The 445 people connected to Memphis Freethought are connected by way of Meetup.com. “We used to be a much smaller group,” Grosser says. “A lot of people are hesitant to admit that they’re atheist. But it gets bigger every year by 50 or 60 members.

Chris Davis

Brianne Klamer of the Memphis Freethought Alliance

“It’s really fulfilling when somebody says, ‘I’m so glad this is in Memphis.’ Because here we are, in the center of the Bible Belt, and usually these are people who are trying to connect to a community. Churches are very community-oriented, so what we’ve been doing is setting up an alternative community.”

Passing

It’s difficult to pick an atheist out of a crowd. Eric Gottlieb, a Memphis math professor, is a soft-spoken dog lover who only discusses his non-belief when he encounters a kindred spirit and the subject somehow arises. He doesn’t belong to any atheist clubs or organizations.

“I really appreciate people whose beliefs motivate them,” he says recalling the good works his Presbyterian neighbors have done and the generosity they’ve shown to troubled kids they’ve taken in and helped. He says he hasn’t experienced much in the way of intolerance. As far as intolerance goes, I don’t think Memphis is the worst place you could live,” he says, allowing that respect is sometimes another matter.

Shortly after moving from Miami to Memphis, Gottlieb experienced a bit of culture shock. “My wife and I were in Pottery Barn, when this kid who couldn’t have been more than 10, maybe younger, asks if I’ve accepted Jesus Christ as my Lord and Savior. I said, ‘No.’ Then he asked if he could pray with me. I said, ‘No.’ This kid was persistent and really had his patter down. After about five minutes, he finally said, ‘Well, if you want to go to Hell, I can’t save you.'”

Gottlieb was gobsmacked. “If I’d have picked my jaw up off the floor and put it back in my head I might’ve said something like, ‘That’s rude for you to make these assumptions about me and my beliefs.'”

Gottlieb isn’t an “in your face” person but he does think “in your face” atheists and activists make a good point. “It’s like being gay,” he says. “If someone doesn’t know any gay people, it’s easier for them to say, ‘Those people shouldn’t be allowed to get married.’ But if your brother or your sister is gay, and you see them in a relationship and they’re kind to each other and have kids that they’re trying to raise and you understand what challenges it poses for them, that makes you more sympathetic, more empathetic.

“I think it’s important for people to know atheists,” Gottlieb says. “I guess I see that as being a solution — for atheists to be respectful but open about their own views.”