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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Restaurants Ring in the New Year

Jimmy “Sushi Jimmi” Sinh introduced his new menu January 7th at his Poke Paradise restaurant at 6343 Summer Avenue, Suite 110.

He’s added more items, including some of his weekly specials. “I’m doing the same thing I always do,” Sinh says. “Fusing my food up a little bit. Asian fusion.”

Sinh plans to add another item in about a week. “We’re a city that loves barbecue, and I have this cool pulled pork sandwich that will be really good for Memphis.”

With influences from Memphis, Asia, and Hawaii, the sandwich will be “the normal jumbo pulled pork sandwich we love here, but the sauce and seasoning will have more of an Asian twist to it.”

The Hawaiian influence is “how the sauce is cooked. The ingredients in the sauce. It will also have a slice of pineapple on it as well as the pulled pork.”

In the coming weeks, Sinh, who has served lunch to patrons who requested it since the restaurant opened, will introduce his official lunch menu featuring smaller portions from the dinner menu. “And we are also offering soups and salads with our lunch menu.”

Sinh also is beefing up his catering business. He plans to do “more than sushi and poke” and to offer a pho bar featuring Vietnamese cuisine.

Sinh’s catering business isn’t limited to corporate events or large venues. “It can be anywhere. If you don’t have a kitchen, no worries. We can bring everything there.”

• Executive chef Nate Henssler has a lot going on in 2025 at Amelia Gene’s Restaurant at 255 South Front Street.

They’re going to take advantage of the success of their special Thursday Tasting Dinner by continuing their thematic approach to the five-course dinners, Henssler says. In homage to the Lunar New Year, which is coming up at the end of January, they’re going to offer a “fun tasting menu” featuring a Chinese-Thailand tasting menu “but using Amelia Gene’s products and Amelia Gene’s presentation.”

The Thursday night tastings are “very popular,” Henssler says. “Every Thursday, we’re seeing between 30 and 45 of these guests coming in for a five-course meal.”

He says, “We’ve also started to put a wine pairing on the tasting menu, and we added a cocktail pairing. We’re continuing to evolve that. We’re going to expand our spirit-free cocktails as well.”

Henssler adds, “Our guests have really enjoyed discovering our expansive wine list, thanks to our general manager Jessica [Henssler].”

Henssler plans to offer rare or special wines by the glass or half glass, like the popular 2015 Dom Perignon champagne they served during the holidays. “On weekends we will open a special bottle. And we’ll let people know.”

Diners will be able to enjoy this wine by purchasing a glass instead of the whole bottle. 

Amelia Gene’s, which does two menus a year, will launch the new one in the latter part of January.

They’re working on getting some live lobsters in and, instead of shrimp and grits, maybe doing a lobster and grits dish using a whole live Maine lobster.

They are currently offering a special hamburger at the bar. Henssler is thinking about offering a “New England-style lobster roll” instead of the burger for a limited time. “Something for the guests that they can only get at the bar.”

“I’ll be sourcing live lobsters from New Bedford, Massachusetts. I’m from New Hampshire, so that’s mother’s milk to me.”

During the holidays, they turned their cheese cart into a dessert trolley for a couple of weeks. It was “wildly popular,” he says. He’s planning to do more limited-time dessert carts. Their dessert chef Jessi Derenburger is “super creative.”

In short, Henssler says, “For 2025, we want to keep pushing creativity. We want to show our guests that fine dining can be very fun. Quirky dishes. And that starts on the Thursday tasting menu.”

His goal is to “just keep pushing forward. We’re got an amazing team. I truly believe we have the best team in Memphis. And we’re just going to keep getting better.”

• Carlee McCullough is looking west during 2025. Not as in cowboy hats and boots, but sunsets.

McCullough is the owner of Mahogany River Terrace, which arguably has the best view of sunsets on the Mississippi River. It’s the ideal place to sip wine or a cocktail and dine on an elegant meal while viewing the waning sun.

“Sunset and Champagne” is slated to launch in the middle of January at the restaurant at 280 Island Drive, McCullough says. “Basically, what we’ll do every day is we’ll check and see when the sunset is expected,” she says. “We’ll be posting on social media.”

They will feature discounted rates on champagne and appetizers.

They’re currently focusing on their prix fixe dinners, which they will feature on Valentine’s Day at Mahogany River Terrace as well as McCullough’s other restaurant, Mahogany Memphis at 3092 Poplar Avenue, Suite 11, in Chickasaw Oaks mall. They always have steak options at both restaurants, but for Valentine’s Day they will offer a rib eye and lobster pairing at Mahogany Memphis and a tomahawk steak and lobster pairing with crab cakes at Mahogany River Terrace, where the fare is more seafood-oriented.

McCullough also is getting ready for the warm weather. “In summertime we are poised to be very popular because of the patio.”

They will feature food specials. And, she says, “We’re going to be very big on champagne.”

She’s partnered with a distributor to offer Veuve Clicquot champagne. “We’ve talked about ‘Veuve Clicquot Wednesdays.’”

That will include appetizers and live music, she says. And, of course, “There’s not a bad seat in the house.”

As for Mahogany Memphis, McCullough wants people to know that the restaurant hasn’t closed just because she opened Mahogany River Terrace. The restaurant is “still going strong,” she says. “We’ve still got fabulous food.”

Chickasaw Oaks is “such a quaint mall,” McCullough says. “You don’t even know you’re in Memphis when you’re in that mall.”

• The dining room is open again at SideStreet Burgers at 9199 MS-178 in Olive Branch, Mississippi.

“It closed for Covid, obviously, a long time ago now,” says owner Jonathan Mah. Customers picked up their orders outside. Mah used the dining room area for storage and as a prep area. “Since then we made room for the storage and prep area. And we renovated the dining room with some tile floors.”

They opened up the dining room last August to make room for more tables. It now seats 20 people.

Mah plans to get a vent hood for the stove. “So, we can do grilled burgers. And possibly add a fryer.”

They’ve never sold grilled hamburgers, he says. “We’ve always baked our burgers in a convection oven, which is very unorthodox in a burger joint. We started 13 years ago and that’s all the money we had. So, we just kind of stuck with it. That’s what we had to use, so we had to be more creative with how we season our burgers.”

Baking the meat “keeps them juicy, for sure.” But a griddle would help sear the outside of the meat and keep the juices in, he says.

They want a fryer so they can start selling French fries, which they’ve never offered. They use roasted potatoes instead, which they will continue to offer as well as the fries.

In addition to hamburgers, Mah says, “We want to completely revamp our menu and put some more fun stuff on the menu. Maybe Philly cheesesteaks or Cubans. Or bring back some sandwiches like the bánh mì, a Vietnamese sandwich. You normally would have pâté on there, but we would do some sort of Vietnamese marinated pork, pickled cucumbers, jalapeños, pickled carrots, and cilantro.”

Mah adds, “The economy is so tough you have to be creative to draw in more customers and new customers.”

As for his other restaurant, OB Pizza Company at 9215 MS-178, Mah says, “In addition to our pizza and our wings and pizza by the slice, we’re hoping to add some gelato up there.” 

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Cover Feature News

The Saga of Sushi Jimmi

Jimmy “Sushi Jimmi” Sinh has been on a roll since he closed his old Sushi Jimmi Asian fusion restaurant on Poplar and his first food truck. That was three years ago. Now, he plans to open a new food truck, Poke Paradise, in mid-June. In the meantime he’s doing pop-ups and catering.

Sinh, 34, is an icon — some might say even a “legend” — in the Memphis food community. Articles about him blow up with hits, views, likes, and shares on social media. He’s created his own brand. And people love him.

Here at the Flyer, we’ve followed Sinh’s many moves — his brick-and-mortar restaurant, his food truck, his cooking show, his plan to leave Memphis, and his subsequent decision to stay here — and we sometimes get a little flak for it. But what can we say? Our readers eat it up. Now, almost exactly a year after we reported Sinh’s decision to stay in Memphis, and just weeks before the debut of his Poke Paradise food truck, we’re finally telling the whole saga of Sushi Jimmi, the local legend and many foodies’ favorite.

“He is my favorite sushi chef in town,” says Jordan Beatty, executive chef at the Flip Side restaurant. “The layering of the ingredients, just the quality of the ingredients, is always extremely fresh. I’ve gone to some other sushi restaurants. The rice might have been made a couple of days ago. Or some other ingredients are not too quality. He prides himself on ordering the best fish that comes into town.”

Sugar Grits executive corporate chef Lee Anna Beatty says, “Chef Jimmy Sinh is our very own Sushi Master of Memphis.”

But just who is Sushi Jimmi? Where did he come from?

Sinh has always approached sushi with a fiery passion, sometimes at the self-admitted risk of burnout. (Photos: Michael Donahue)

On Beginnings
“I was born in South Vietnam,” says Sinh, one of seven children.

When he was 2-and-a-half years old, Sinh and his family moved to Los Angeles, where the majority of his family lived. When he was 6, his parents moved the family to Memphis where they pursued better job opportunities. His mother worked in a food warehouse, and his father in an automotive business.

In Sinh’s household, his mom did the cooking. “My favorite dish my mom cooked was her pho. She cooked it pretty often. Growing up, we rarely went out. She cooked all the time. And I learned how to prep and get things ready for the next day because of her,” Sinh remembers.

“My mom was always on schedule. She worked a lot. And when she came home everything was ready. She’d make four or five dishes in 30 minutes because she had so many kids to feed. And to be able to do that, you have to prepare that the day before. You come home, you cook.”

Sinh’s mother had plenty of practice preparing many meals, both for her family and for hungry customers. “In Vietnam, she was a street food vendor, selling pretty much anything she could get her hands on,” Sinh says. “She’d make some noodle soups, fried rice, banh mi. That’s how we survived. I’ve got three brothers and three sisters.”

Though the culinary craft was on display at home, cars — not cooking — were Sinh’s first passion. “My brother loved going to car lots. When I was younger he’d always take me,” Sinh says.

“I didn’t really get interested in cooking until I was 16 in high school. Freshman year. I got my first job. I never thought in life I would ever end up in a Japanese restaurant. I thought I would end up like everyone else — in a Chinese restaurant for my first job.”

He worked as a host at Benihana, and he was mesmerized by one station in particular. “I always looked over at the sushi bar every chance I got and I’d just watch. As kids, you just see some things you just like to watch.

“I asked the head chef, ‘Can I work at the sushi bar?’ And they gave me an opportunity. I worked at the sushi bar for two weeks.”

But, he says, “I was more the helper and I didn’t like that.” Sinh is creative, an attribute that expresses itself often in his menu items, and it made him want to do more than be a “helper.”

His friend Tony Do got him a job at Do’s family’s restaurant, Nagasaki Inn, which is where Sinh really sank his teeth into preparing sushi.

Do made sure Sinh learned the foundations of rolling sushi. “I started practicing and I just got better at it,” he says.

A creative cook, Sinh also did his own thing with sushi. “I’m very good at improvising. When I see pictures I come up with something of my own. I get an idea and put it with my idea.”

Nagasaki Inn co-owner Harold Do, Tony’s father, was a mentor to young Sinh. “He’s like an uncle to me. I see Mr. Harold all the time. We always hug. That man has taught me so much. That’s why I work so hard. I’ve never seen anybody work so hard as him,” Sinh says.

Sinh admired Do’s strong work ethic, and his rapport with his customers. “Being in front of him watching him cook is an honor. He works hard and he has the opportunity to still come out and show his face. That’s why customers come to see him. How else are you going to see the man cook for you and tell you jokes?”

And, he says, “I was a teenager. And Mr. Harold was the one who was really there for me to keep me off the streets. From being around the wrong crowd. He’s not just a great chef, but a great person. I loved working there. It’s one of those memories you never forget.”

Working at Nagasaki Inn was Sinh’s favorite restaurant experience. “Harold and his son, Tony, treated me like family. I’ll never forget it. I had the best teenage life working there. I learned so much. And I always tell people, ‘Nobody cooks hibachi better than Nagasaki, in my opinion.’

“We all helped each other out. We worked together as a team. At nighttime we would sit down together as a family.”

Photo: Michael Donahue

Sushi Evolution
Sinh was at Nagasaki Inn for two years. “I took the sushi game a lot more seriously when I was around 21. That was when I told myself I want to do sushi for the rest of my life. I just saw the lack of knowledge around. When people eat sushi they get confused. I told myself, ‘I want to be the one that teaches people how to eat it. And not be afraid of trying it.’”

Later, Sinh learned how to do more advanced sushi. He got a job at the old Wasabi Sushi & Asian Fusion in Cordova. “That was the first time for me to do more advanced sushi. That’s where I spent a lot of time doing more of the raw stuff like the nigiri and the sashimi.”

He got the name Sushi Jimmi while working at the sushi bar. “There was a party going on. Somebody was asking for me and one of my buddies said, ‘Who are you looking for? Are you looking for Jimmy? Jimmy who? Sushi Jimmy?’ That’s how I got the name ‘Sushi Jimmi.’”

In 2014, Sinh, who helped open Red Fish restaurant locations, decided to open his own food truck. He had plenty of experience, and the market for food trucks was growing. “The food truck scene got bigger and bigger here in the Mid-South,” he says. “I was having my third kid and it motivated me to start up my own business. Me and my wife just had a long conversation about what are we going to do.”

He wondered if he should work “paycheck to paycheck” or do what he loves “and make a living at it.” Turning a passion into a profession would be hard work and would come with no shortage of challenges, but it was the most alluring option.

Sinh had a food truck built in Dallas. It made its debut in 2015 at the Mid-South Food Truck Festival, where he did “really well,” Sinh remembers.

He didn’t just sell sushi. “We had spring rolls. We had egg rolls. We had kimchi fries. We had crawfish nachos. People love the crawfish nachos. They were one of those big-hit things.”

Flush from the success of his food truck, in 2017, Sinh opened his Sushi Jimmi restaurant at 2895 Poplar. “I was trying to provide people with job opportunities.” And, he adds, “I wanted to expand my business a little more.”

But opening the restaurant wasn’t a good idea, Sinh says. “That was the worst mistake I ever made.”

With the food truck, Sinh had more time to enjoy his family, but a brick-and-mortar restaurant, and the staff it takes to run one, means a bigger commitment and more time spent at work. “When I had the restaurant, I never had a day I could enjoy,” he says.

He closed Sushi Jimmi on May 23, 2019, and he closed his food truck the next day. “Having to run the food truck and the restaurant by myself was burning me out,” Sinh admits. “If you don’t feel happy, stop. I stopped before I hated it. You don’t want to lose what you fell in love with.”

Sinh eventually went to work at other restaurants, including Saltwater Crab and at Saito 2.

In April 2021, Sinh announced he was moving to Orlando, Florida, in May. He said it would be a better opportunity for him and his family.

He also wanted to take a two-month vacation and spend time with his wife and children.

In June 2021, Sinh announced he was staying in Memphis. He said in a Flyer interview he and his wife didn’t want to move while his children were so young. The children needed “to bond a little more as a family.” They also had another child on the way.

Sinh told the Flyer, “When I shut Sushi Jimmi down, I hopped back into my work. Worked really hard like I did at Sushi Jimmi. I never gave myself a break, so I kind of burned myself out and just hated what I was doing.”

As Sinh returns to the food truck business, he plans to go beyond the “Sushi Jimmi” moniker to expand his repertoire to poke. (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Poke Paradise
The life of a chef often means hard work and long hours, and the same can be said for any small business owner. And, if the pun can be pardoned, there’s always the risk of getting burned, or burned out. That’s when Sinh came up with the idea to improve his private chef business and open his Poke Paradise food truck. He said, “I want to bring Sushi Jimmi to you. Make sure it’s something you’ll never forget.”

Sinh is happy to be “going mobile” again. Poke Paradise is “a brand you can actually franchise,” he says.

Poke is diced fresh fish, usually served with soy sauce and onion. “You can eat it spicy, and you can make it with the soy sauce base or mayo base or eat it the way it is,” Sinh explains. “It was created by fishermen with leftover fish. It was created in Hawaii. It’s a Japanese-Hawaiian dish.”

He wanted to serve something simple and healthy for people to eat. At Sinh’s Poke Paradise, people can choose from four or five different sauces.

Sinh is ready to introduce his “version of poke.”

“I’m always the person who likes the extra. I want my customers to have a little bit of an option. We’re going to have heat — mango habanero sauce. Nothing better than fresh fish and the right sauce.”

Until he gets his food truck on the road, Sinh is doing pop-ups, special orders, and catering. “Just so that we can keep ourselves busy and at the same time try new things to see what we can put on our new menu. To see if it will work on the truck once we have the truck out.” Customers can find him on Facebook (@SushiJimmi) and on Instagram (@sushi_jimmi).

Sinh “cooks with love,” says artist, actor, entrepreneur Kia Shine. “And it comes through when you’re eating.”

His sushi has “great presentation,” Shine adds. “And it’s really, really good, man. He knows what he’s doing with that sushi.”

Shine recalled a few years ago after he and members of the Heal the Hood Foundation of Memphis visited Sinh’s restaurant after delivering turkeys. “There were about 13 of us, and he was just bringing sushi dish after dish after dish after dish.”

When it came time to pay the bill, Sinh told Shine, “Nah, I got this.”

Shine continues, “He’s a giver. That speaks volumes about the individual.”

Sinh plans to one day franchise Poke Paradise brick-and-mortar restaurants in other cities. For now, he wants to be mobile with maybe one or two people to help him. “All I can tell you is if the customer keeps supporting me, better things will come,” he says. “Every dollar I make I put it right back in the business to make the business better. I’m going to take my time with this.”

“Jimmy has influenced the way we enjoy sushi in Memphis,” says Suzie “Big Sue” Purnell, iHeartMedia senior vice president of programming. “What some may see as an intimidating experience, Jimmy counters by bringing joy, pride, creativity, and fun to everything he creates. That’s a real gift and what makes him such a star.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Memphis Chefs Personalize Barbecuing: Part 1

If you’re a Memphis chef, chances are you’ve thought about creating some kind of barbecue. Or maybe you already have.

But what would be your “signature” barbecue? Even if the idea is still in your imagination?

Tamra Patterson, chef/owner of Chef Tam’s Underground Cafe: “If Chef Tam created her style of barbecue/meat, it would be barbecue catfish stuffed with a barbecue jambalaya. No matter what I cook, I always have to infuse my love of Cajun food and Cajun culture.”

Jonathan Magallanes, chef/owner of Las Tortugas: “My style would be twice-cooked for an extra texture. First, braised like carnitas with whole orange, bay leaf, lard, lime, and green chile. Then flash-fried in peanut oil. At Tops Bar-B-Q, I ask for extra dark meat on the sandwich. That bark and meat crust is divine. Then I would use a chipotle salsa. Pork is braised in a huge copper kettle. Chipotle, cilantro, lime, and onion for garnish. I like to do the whole rack of ribs this way, or shoulder. Crispy pork is the best pork, as it accentuates and concentrates the porcine flavor.”

Mario Grisanti, owner of Dino’s Grill: “I make my own barbecue sauce, but I make it sweet. I would make a beef brisket and smoked pork barbecue lasagna with layers of meats, mozzarella cheese, etc. Thin layers of each covered in barbecue sauce.”

Chip Dunham, chef/owner of Magnolia & May: “One of my favorite barbecue dishes I’ve created is our Tacos con Mempho. I smoke my own pork shoulder for 12 hours and serve it on two corn tortillas with American cheese melted between them, avocado salsa, and tobacco onions. At brunch, we simply just add a scrambled egg and it’s a breakfast taco. Another one of my favorites was our barbecue butternut squash sandwich. We roast butternut squash and toss it with some Memphis barbecue sauce. It’s a vegan sandwich that satisfies the biggest meat-eater.”

Kelly English, chef/owner of Restaurant Iris and The Second Line: “If I were to try to put my own fingerprints on what Memphis already does perfectly, I would play around with fermentations and chili peppers. I would also explore the traditions of barbacoa in ancient Central American and surrounding societies.”

Jimmy “Sushi Jimmi” Sinh, Poke Paradise food truck owner: “I made a roll with barbecue meats a long time ago. Made with Central BBQ ribs. I made them plenty of times when I hung out with my barbecue friends. I did it in my rookie years. Inside is all rib meat topped with rib meat, barbecue crab mix, thin-sliced jalapeño, dab of sriracha, furikake, green onion.”

Armando Gagliano, Ecco on Overton Park chef/owner: “My favorite meat to smoke is pork back ribs. I keep the dry rub pretty simple: half brown sugar to a quarter adobo and a quarter salt. I smoke my ribs at 250-275 degrees using post oak wood and offset smoker. … The ribs are smoked for three hours and spritzed with orange juice and sherry vinegar every 30 minutes. After three hours, I baste with a homemade barbecue sauce that includes a lot of chipotle peppers and honey. Wrap the ribs in foil and put back on the smoker for two hours. After that, remove from the smoker and let rest in the foil for another hour. They should pull completely off the bone, but not fall apart when handled.”

FreeSol, owner of Red Bones Turkey Legs at Carolina Watershed: “I am already doing it with the turkey legs. We are smoking these legs for hours till they fall of the bone. … We [also] flavor them and stuff them.”

Ryan Trimm, chef/owner of Sunrise Memphis and 117 Prime: “Beef spare ribs are a personal favorite of mine. A nice smoke with a black pepper-based rub followed by a fruit-based sweet-and-spicy barbecue sauce is my way to go.”

And even Huey’s gets in on the act. Huey’s COO Ashley Boggs Robilio says, “Recipe created by Huey’s Midtown day crew: Huey’s world famous BBQ brisket burger. Topped with coleslaw and fried jalapeños.”

Continuing to celebrate barbecue month in Memphis, more chefs share ’que ideas in next week’s Memphis Flyer.