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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Bubbly!

A few weeks ago, I was at a friend’s house, catching up on episodes of Feud and snacking accordingly. I’d brought over a bottle of Prosecco, and after we each poured a glass, I asked for a butter knife and dropped the handle into the neck of the bottle before putting it into the fridge for safe-keeping. Said friend asked aloud what I was doing, and I was surprised, because I thought I’d learned the trick from her — or maybe I learned it from Karen Carrier or Dana Baldwin, when I was pinch-hitting on the catering team at Another Roadside Attraction. Or maybe I learned it from another friend — but I thought that by now, everyone knew that putting a metal utensil into an opened bottle of bubbly preserved the fizz for a day or two.

Some googling reveals that Lifehacker did a piece on this, and according to their post, the utensil acts as a radiator, cooling the air inside the neck of the opened bottle. Cold air is denser than warm air, which means that the bubbles are “plugged” into the aerated wine and cannot escape as quickly as they would otherwise. The utensil doesn’t even have to touch the wine. According to online reports, an upside-down spoon works fine, although I’ve always used a butter knife, making sure that the neck of the bottle is small enough that I don’t lose the knife inside the bottle.

Bubbly booze that won’t break the bank

Try it next time — if you actually have any leftover bubbly. Prosecco is a great go-to for this time of year, appropriate for dinner parties even if you don’t have something big to celebrate. And Prosecco is affordable. I’d pass on Cupcake, which is a bargain at approximately $12 a bottle but too dry for me, and look for the fruity Menage a Trois or the crisp Zardetto, both of which are universally available for under $15 per bottle. My current favorite, La Marca, has a citrus zing that provides the perfect accompaniment to grilled fish or chicken.

Prosecco’s roots trace back to the ancient Romans. Naturalist and philosopher-turned-naval-commander Pliny the Elder made note of it, and Livia, the wife of the emperor Augustus and grandmother of Claudius, cited the “castellum nobile vinum Pucinu” for its healing qualities. In 1593, an English traveler named Fynes Moryson wrote, upon visiting the northern region of Italy, “Here growes the wine Pucinum, now called Prosecho, much celebrated by Pliny.” Today, the wine is one of the cheapest sparkling wines on the market, largely due to the production process: Prosecco’s secondary fermentation occurs en masse in stainless steel tanks, while the second part of the fermentation process for Champagne occurs after the wine is already bottled.

Cava is another bargain substitute for Champagne. The Spanish wine, a specialty of the Catalan region, comes in both white and rosé varieties and ages between five and 30 months before it hits the market. Try the Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut, which, like the Zardetto Prosecco, has bright citrus notes and sells for around $12. Another good small-batch cava brand, Poema, is stocked all over town and sells for between $11 and $14 per bottle.

Stock up on either Prosecco or cava, and consider using them as a mixer. Substituting Prosecco for Champagne makes either a Bellini or mimosa an affordable luxury for every weekend. Try the Latin Kitchen’s variation on a classic Champagne cocktail, which combines ⅓ ounce of Gold Rum, 3 ounces of Brut Cava, a sugar cube, and two dashes of angostura bitters to create a strong but sweet drink.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Grownup Drinks

As I’ve “grown up” career-wise, I’ve had to do quite a bit of on-the-job drinking. Of course, I drink for this gig — but I’m talking about my day job, the one that covers the majority of my bills, health insurance, and the like. I’m currently in transition, which has got me thinking about what it means to drink responsibly with coworkers, which is much different than being an ethical drinker at large.

Thankfully, I’ve never gotten smashed and photocopied body parts at a work party, made an untoward pass at a fellow employee, or woken up with any real regrets about how I’ve handled myself. I have, however, had to quickly transition from sitting at my desk to standing at a cocktail party with nothing but lunch in my stomach to pad the alcohol. I still haven’t mastered noshing on passed appetizers while juggling a wine glass and my purse, so I typically just sip one glass of white wine (okay, maybe two) and then excuse myself for dinner elsewhere.

When attending a work event, I’ve learned to pay close attention to company culture. At the end of the 1990s, I worked at a company that regularly rolled kegs into the employee cafeteria on Friday afternoons. Everyone would dutifully go a few rounds and then leave work to enjoy the weekend. I’ve also worked places where I didn’t trust my coworkers or my mouth, so I eschewed drinking and extricated myself from the conversation as quickly as possible. Now, most invitations to imbibe come at nighttime work events or when entertaining out-of-town visitors. On those occasions, I’ve learned to observe my immediate superior and never outpace them. I make it a point to eat before drinking, even if it’s a vending machine snack. I’ve also discovered low-alcohol cocktails, a delicious way to keep your wits and still enjoy a good drink.

Let’s start with what should be the obvious go-to: Campari and soda, made from the Italian liqueur that weighs in at around 20 percent ABV (alcohol by volume). Around since 1880, the distinctive red liqueur is created by infusing fruits and herbs in an alcohol and water blend. In Italy today, you can even buy a premixed Campari Soda, which has a very low ABV of 10 percent. Slightly bitter, Campari is always a sophisticated choice when you need to take it easy on the booze but still want to join in the fun.

Prosecco — Italian sparkling wine — also has a low ABV of under 12.5 percent. Spring and summer are the prefect times to drink it, whether you enjoy a glass on its own or add fruit for a cocktail. When peaches are in season, I always go for a Bellini, named for 15th-century Renaissance painter Giovanni Bellini and first mixed at the legendary Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy, 72 years ago.

The Basque cocktail Kalimotxo is also easy on your liver. I was first introduced to this drink, a simple mix of equal parts Coca-Cola and cheap red wine, by a Basque guy who arrived in Memphis by way of Boise, Idaho, which has a Basque population some 15,000 strong. The Coke and wine blend makes for an overly sweet but quite sippable cocktail that I like to nurse in a red Solo cup at all-day festivals or sporting events.

Also worth drinking: the unsung work dog of cocktails, vermouth. The low-alcohol white wine, originally a “wormwood wine” devised as a cure for intestinal issues, comes in at about 18 percent ABV and makes for an interesting cocktail base on its own.

Ask your bartender to serve you ginger ale and dry vermouth with a squeeze of lemon. Or order an Addington, a jazz-age cocktail that consists of both sweet and dry vermouth, sparkling water, and an orange twist. Served in a martini glass, it can hold its own against any vodka cocktail. If that’s too fancy for you, go for the Americano. Not the coffee drink, but a cocktail created with equal parts sweet vermouth and Amaro liqueur, served on the rocks in a lowball glass and topped with soda.