Tag: Relevant Roasters

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Relevant Roasters To Become French Truck Coffee

Geoffrey Meeker of French Truck Coffee

Geoffrey Meeker of the New Orleans-based French Truck Coffee has entered into a partnership with Jimmy Lewis of Relevant Roasters. 

Relevant Roasters will be rebranded French Truck Coffee, with Lewis in charge of the Memphis operation. The rebranding is set for September. In addition, they will open a roaster and cafe in the Crosstown Concourse building. 

Meeker started French Truck out of his home in 2012. He says he got into coffee via his cousin.

“She brought me a bag of coffee from a San Francisco roaster that was roasted the day before she got on the plane, and it was an epiphany,” Meeker says. “I couldn’t understand why coffee could be so good and I had never had it before. I then set about reverse-engineering to see how it could be done.”

Meeker, who has a background as a chef, started the micro-roaster out of his laundry room. The coffee was delivered to customers’ homes via a vintage truck. 

French Truck outgrew the laundry room. The business was moved into a warehouse with a coffee bar like Relevant’s. There is now a French Truck Cafe as well.

It sells 14 types of coffee — 8 single-origin, 6 blends. 
 
According to Meeker, Lewis first contacted him to compare notes on the roasting business, and, eventually, Lewis asked him he was interested in a partnership. Meeker initially told him no before reconsidering what combining the brands might mean. 

As for the rebranding of Relevant into French Truck, Meeker explains the reason, “It’s twofold: We feel, and Jimmy is of this opinion, that our brand is a really strong brand and it’s got a lot of legs. And number two, if we were to remain two separate entities as far as naming goes, we wouldn’t be able to capitalize on some of the efficiencies of having a larger operation because we would be buying two kinds of bags, two different websites, etc., etc., etc.”

“Some of the steps that we’ve already taken and some of the lessons we’ve already learned get added into what Relevant was doing. We wouldn’t have done this if Jimmy hadn’t stayed on board,” Meeker adds. 

 
The Crosstown Concourse French Truck will be a roaster/cafe with large windows on all sides so customers can get a peek into the roaster. The cafe will serve a European-inspired menu and beer and wine. Meeker envisions for the space coffee-centric education events, pop-up restaurants, and cuppings. 

Says Meeker of the partnership, “Jimmy already has amazing equipment. With our background in buying coffee and his background in roasting and us putting all that together, it just means that the Relevant Roaster product when it becomes French Truck is going to take one step forward as far as quality goes and the coffee that we’re going to be selling in Memphis is world class, on par with what you might find in San Francisco and New York.” 

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Chewing Over the Food News of 2015

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

In looking over 2015, one thing stood out: brand expansion. Aldo’s Pizza Pies, with its swell rooftop patio, and City Market (grab and go!) came to Cooper-Young. Fino’s opened a second restaurant in East Memphis (yay sandwiches!), and Mediterranean mainstay Casablanca returned to Midtown. Both Bedrock Eats & Sweets, the paleo eatery, and the all-vegan Pink Diva Cupcakery and Cuisine got places to call their own.

Justin Fox Burks

Bedrock Eats & Sweets

Ermyias Shiberou, owner of Stickem food truck, opened Blue Nile Ethiopian Kitchen on Madison in Midtown, next to the Bar-B-Q Shop. Stickem’s awesome kabobs are on the menu, and the lentil sandwich is terrific. Reverb Coffee got into the food-truck game, and Relevant Roasters opened its own coffee bar. Tamp & Tap Triad was unveiled in East Memphis.

Justin Fox Burks

Blue Nile Ethiopian Kitchen

Last year, all the action was in Overton Square. This year, one could argue, it’s South Main. The new location of Rizzo’s, after much delay, opened in March. Don’t worry, the Lobster Pronto Pups are still on the menu. The great and always-packed Maciel’s offers downtowners tacos, tortas, and more. South Main Sushi & Grill took over the Grawemeyer’s space, and there’s Ray’z World Famous Dr. Bar-b-que a few blocks north. The hipsteriffic 387 Pantry is a small, curated market with locally sourced goods like Dr. Bean’s coffee and Hanna Farm grits and cornmeal.

Justin Fox Burks

Ray’z World Famous Dr. Bar-b-que

Also new to downtown is the build-your-own tacos and burritos and nachos joint Burrito Blues (mmmm, nachos) and the Cuban and Mexican restaurant Sabrosura (try the Cuban sandwich). Jeff Johnson’s latest venture Agave Maria, with its masterful decor and endless tequila menu, opened on Union. Recommendation: the cheesy mushroom and poblano enchilada. In April, Bass Pro finally opened in the Pyramid. Uncle Buck’s, the underwater-themed restaurant with a bowling alley, offers a little something for everyone. Up top, the Lookout has one of the best views in the city.

Germantown got all the grocery stores. There’s the 1,000,000-square-foot Kroger that opened. (Actually, it’s only 100,000 square feet, but to put it in perspective, the Union Kroger is 36,000 square feet). It has a juice bar and a Corky’s BBQ kiosk. The healthy-food-at-a-discount grocer, Sprouts, after opening Lakeland, introduced its second store in Germantown. Whole Foods opened its second Memphis-area store in Germantown, too. It features a charcuterie cave, a fresh pasta station, made-fresh savory and sweet crepes, and Korean street food from Kei Jei Kitchens. (I think about the steamed bao sliders all the time.) And, in September, there was news, which seems completely unfair depending on your zip code, that the first area Trader Joe’s would open in Germantown sometime in 2016.

Breakfast for dinner? Breakfast for lunch? Breakfast for breakfast? Whenever! Another Broken Egg, a chain, opened in East Memphis. Order one of their scrambled skillets and their beignet biscuits and you’ll feel like you’ve been hit by a bus, but in the best way possible. Also in the breakfast-whenever game is the colorful, pancake-centric Staks. You can even make your own pancakes, if you’re so inclined. They also offer soups, salads, and sandwiches (including the Memphis Hot Brown).

And, and, and … There’s Mac’s Burgers with a menu filled with gourmet mac-and-cheese and burgers. Coffeehouse/gift shop City & State opened on Broad. 3 Angels Diner made way for Maximo’s on Broad. Encore Cafe offers wraps, smoothies, and salads, plus a place for Cozy Corner while it gets its building ready. Crazy Italians is owned by real-live Italians and features a menu of affordable, classic dishes like spaghetti alla carbonara. I Love Juice Bar features juices, smoothies, and essential oil shots. Mardi Gras, in Crosstown, has gotten great word-of-mouth for its Cajun fare. Diners can tour the U.S.A. at Heritage Tavern & Kitchen, which has a menu of regional favorites. Healthy, tastefully done meals are Julles Posh Food‘s focus. Ditto for LYFE Kitchen, where there’s no fryer, and it’s not missed at all.

Finally, two words: Cheesecake Factory.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Now open: Relevant Roaster, Doc’s, and Quench.

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Call it a Memphis moment. You meet someone who looks like she just stepped out of a DeLorean from the year 2025. And you’re like, how did you get here? It happened to me the other day at the new Relevant Roasters Coffee Bar.

Her name is Loma. She’s half-Asian with hipster bangs. Before she came to Relevant, she was a barista at Four Barrel Coffee in San Francisco. Before that, she pulled shots at Monmouth Coffee in London. These are among the best coffee shops in the world. So how did Loma wind up in Memphis?

Well, of course, she’s from here.

Justin Fox Burks

Loma of Relevant Roasters

“I’ve tried to move back so many times,” Loma says. “My family’s here, and I get homesick. But each time I came back, I felt like there wasn’t really a place for me.”

All that changed on her last trip home, in February of this year.

“There was a whole new energy. It just felt like things were happening, you know?”

Try Loma’s espresso, and you’ll be inclined to agree. On the day I visited, she was pulling shots of house-roasted, single-origin beans from the Sidamo region of Ethiopia. Most espresso shots just taste like coffee, but this one had a personality. It was bright and well-balanced, with floral notes at the front and citrus fruits at the back.

“That’s a really juicy shot,” says Loma, grinning as she hands me the demitasse. “It kind of sparkles on your tongue.”

Relevant owner Jimmy Lewis says he never thought he’d open a coffee shop. The founder of Squash Blossom Market got out of retail 18 years ago, and he says he wasn’t looking back. Now he’s eating those words — and they’re delicious.

“The fact is,” Lewis admits, “a coffee bar allows us to showcase the quality of our product in a way that nobody else can.”

He’s right. Coffee tastes best about three days after it’s roasted, and you just can’t get that at most coffee shops. But because Relevant sources and roasts the beans themselves, they’ve got an edge when it comes to freshness. While you’re in the shop, try the new Iced Horchata Latte. Made with horchata from La Michoacana, it just might become your go-to summer beverage.

Back in November, Memphis voters passed a referendum that will allow wine to be sold in grocery stores, beginning in July 2016. Since then, reactions have ranged from tepid excitement to outright hysteria. And the question remains: How will liquor stores fare in the face of a big, new competitor?

For an answer, turn to two new liquor stores at opposite ends of the city. They’re getting ahead by offering things that grocery stores can’t or won’t: liquor (obviously), special events, local food, and a wine selection that is simultaneously wider and more focused. So far, it seems to be working.

The first is Doc’s Wine, Spirits & More at Poplar and Kirby. Manager Ryan Gill used to line up concerts for the New Daisy, and he’s brought that skill set to his new gig. Doc’s offers live music once a month. Check their website for details. Then there’s the food: cured meats from Porcellino’s Craft Butcher and artisanal chocolates from Phillip Ashley Rix, to name just two.

How a liquor store in Germantown came to carry two of Memphis’ most prestigious craft foods, I’ll never know. But since you can, why not pair Porcellino’s Amatriciana sausage with a custom Dolcetto blend from Brutocao Cellars?

The second store is Quench Wine & Spirits, down the street from the Peabody hotel. Their big idea is so old that I think it qualifies as new: They’re a liquor store you can walk to. Add to that monthly wine tastings, local munchies, and top-shelf customer service, and you’ve got a winner.

“We’re keeping it classy,” says manager Meghan Bridges. “I don’t know if you noticed, but we’ve got chandeliers.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The things we ate in 2014.

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Last winter, Holly Whitfield of the I Love Memphis Blog announced that Memphis is in the midst of a spectacular “Foodnado.” How apt! My cursory count of restaurants, breweries, and sundry food-related places that opened in 2014 adds up to 40, and not all of them in Overton Square.

But, then again, a lot of them are in Overton Square. Babalu Tacos & Tapas opened in June, offering tableside-prepared guacamole and lots of sharing plates. The place has been packed since. In August came Jimmy Ishii’s Robata Ramen & Yakitori Bar with a fine menu of ramen noodle bowls and skewers. Lafayette’s Music Room, an homage to the original much-loved, circa-’70s Overton Square bar named for the recently passed away ace bartender Lafayette Draper, opened in September and features wood-fired pizzas and a music schedule set at palatable hours. Schweinehaus, a cheeky Memphis take on German food, also opened in September. There’s beer, brats, and the occasional lederhosen sighting — what’s not to like? If you need olive oil, there’s the Square Olive, and there’s more music and fun at the Chicago-based Zebra Lounge.

Justin Fox Burks

Robata Ramen & Yakitori Bar

The most recent addition to Overton Square is Belly Acres, a farm-to-table burger restaurant, the latest of three burger-centric places to open in Memphis. This trend has our full endorsement. Belly Acres has a fantasyland interior and a menu that demands to be gone through one burger at a time. Down the street, there’s LBOE (Last Burger on Earth). Its menu raises the bar with such burgers as the super spicy Lava Me or Lava Me Not and the garlic-laden Love Stinks. Oshi Burger Bar downtown has something for everyone — beef burgers, tuna burgers, vegetarian burgers, gluten-free buns. They also have great milkshakes.

Justin Fox Burks

Oshi Burger Bar on South Main

Plenty of glasses have been raised at the taprooms opened in 2014 at High Cotton Brewing Co. and Memphis Made Brewing Co., and Memphis promises to get buzzier still in the new year with Pyramid Vodka. Wine in grocery stores finally passed, and while that doesn’t happen until 2016, local liquor stores are making the best of it with growler stations and more.

In grocery-store news: Whole Foods opened its expanded store in East Memphis, which includes a site-specific barbecue restaurant and a growler station. There’s the new Fresh Market in Midtown, and Kroger continues to show its commitment to Memphis in updating its stores, most recently the one at Cleveland and Poplar. Plus, there’s been some buzz about a Trader Joe’s opening sometime somewhere. We shall see.

In coffee news: Everybody freaked out when Muddy’s Bake Shop announced a new Midtown store in August 2013. Muddy’s Grind House opened this fall and offers a little of everything, from coffee to breakfast eats and yoga. The Avenue, near the University of Memphis, has great coffee and treats with Christian fellowship. There’s also Cafe Keough downtown in a gorgeous setting with a great cafe Americano. Tart offers quiches and more — a great go-to place when expectations are high. Ugly Mug took over the Poplar Perk’n space, and Jimmy Lewis, who founded Squash Blossom, returned to the scene with Relevant Roasters, selling wholesale, environmentally sound, and worker-friendly coffee with the motto “Every Cup Matters.”

After a few false starts, the Riverfront Development Corporation came through with Riverfront Grill. It serves a sophisticated but not too syrupy Southern menu and also has some of the best views in Memphis. Also new this year to downtown are the Kwik Chek spinoff Nacho’s, Marie’s Eatery in the old Rizzo’s Diner spot, and Cafe Pontotoc. Rizzo’s moved into the old Cafe Soul site, and there’s the Love Pop Soda Shop, a nifty craft soda shop.

In East Memphis, Skewer, serving Yakitori and ramen, opened in January. 4 Dumplings opened around the same time, and, as its name suggests, the menu is built around four dumplings. The vegan dumpling with tofu is not to be missed.

Since at least four people mentioned to me that Jackson Kramer’s Bounty on Broad is “secretly” gluten-free, I’m guessing it’s not really a secret. The dishes at this lovely farm-to-table spot are thoughtfully done and a delight to look at. The menu changes frequently, but at a recent dinner, there were mussels in fragrant coconut milk, charred broccolini, and creamed kale served over polenta. Also gluten-free is the Hawaiian import Maui Brick Oven, serving brick-oven pizzas and grain bowls.

Justin Fox Burks

Bounty on Broad’s Jackson Kramer

At Ecco on Overton Park, Sabine Bachmann’s cozy neighborhood restaurant, there are heaping dishes of pork chops, delicate pasta dishes, and artful cheese plates — something for every appetite. Strano Sicilian Kitchen & Bar serves a great roasted carrot soup and Italian classics from meatballs to pizza.

At press time, Porcellino’s, Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman’s latest venture, was due to open “any minute now.” File this one under “This Should Be Interesting.” This is a butcher shop/sundry/coffee spot/wine bar offering grab-and-go sandwiches, fresh pastas, cured meats, house-made pastries, and more.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Now Open: Relevant Roasters and Bounty on Broad

CREDIT: John Minervini

For most of us, making a cup of coffee is pretty straightforward: You get the grounds out of the cupboard, get the maker set, and press “start.” But for Jimmy Lewis, the process is a bit more complicated. Take today’s cup: It started halfway across the world, on a sun-kissed hillside in the highlands of Nicaragua.

“These beans,” enthuses Lewis, “were grown by a young guy in his 30s, a graduate of Washington University. He did his thesis about the working conditions of coffee growers, and he ended up buying a farm.”

John Minervini

Jimmy Lewis of Relevant Roasters

Lewis is the founder of Relevant Roasters, a coffee wholesaler that recently opened on the corner of Broad and Tillman. His aim is twofold: Teach Memphians to brew better coffee while making better, more mindful decisions about the things they buy. It’s a sentiment that is summed up in the company motto: “Every Cup Matters.”

“I wanna be relevant,” Lewis explains. “And the best way I know how to do that is to model a behavior that says life can be more fulfilling when you consider the meaning of your actions and how they affect others.”

Lewis works directly with growers in Ethiopia, Sumatra, and Nicaragua, selecting only those farmers who treat both their workers and the environment well. But sourcing good beans is only half the battle. The real work begins when the coffee arrives in Memphis.

To roast the beans, Lewis purchased a Loring Smart Roaster, a shiny, futuristic device that looks like the front of a stainless steel steam engine. At a cost of $78,000, it was a considerable investment, especially when compared to more traditional roasters. But Lewis says he chose the Loring for two important reasons.

The first is environmental. Because of its cutting-edge design, the Loring uses up to 83 percent less fuel than conventional drum roasters, while producing a fraction of the smoke. The second reason is good, old-fashioned flavor. Unlike most roasters, the Loring heats by convection, which produces a smoother, brighter, cleaner-tasting coffee.

The results are good enough to sip. The cup of medium-roast Nicaraguan coffee I tried had a rich mouth feel and a pleasant progression of flavors, including caramel and lemon zest. To experience it yourself, visit Relevant Roasters this week; they’re hosting a preview in their tasting room from Thursday-Saturday, 7 a.m.-10 a.m. Or buy a pound of Relevant coffee ($12.95) at Miss Cordelia’s on Mud Island.

“Local” has long been a buzzword among foodies. In short: If it’s not from around here, we don’t want any. But the team at Bounty on Broad (set to open on Wednesday, October 8th) has taken that concept to a whole new level. Beyond the 20 or so regional farms that supply Bounty with meat and veggies, there’s a whole host of local businesses that quite literally built the place.

“We get our beer from about 300 feet away,” says chef Jackson Kramer. “We get our coffee from 500 feet away. We bought most of our kitchen equipment at Chef’s Supply; that’s about 200 feet away. And we get our light bulbs at Light Bulb Depot, which is right across the street.”

A good illustration of Bounty’s commitment to local is the restaurant’s signature dish: the Bounty Bowl. Each week, Kramer calls around to local farmers and builds an entrée around what’s in season. Available in both an “herbivore” ($13) and a “carnivore” ($18) version, this week’s bowl features heirloom tomatoes from Whitton Farms and butternut squash from True Vine Farms.

John Minervini

Bounty on Broad’s Stuffed Mountain Trout

Bounty is located at the west end of Broad in a 100-year-old dry goods store, incorporating salvaged wood, brick, and tile from the original structure. But ultimately, because of rotten joists and deteriorating mortar, the building had to be gutted.

“At one point,” remembers Kramer, “there was nothing left standing except the front wall. No ceiling, no floor. Just dirt.”

The new space is light and airy, with polished concrete floors and a prominent diagram showing the different cuts of meat on both a pig and a cow. It’s a sign of things to come: In about a month, Kramer plans to open a butcher shop on Bounty’s ground floor. There he will break down local pork, beef, chicken, and lamb into fresh cuts, for sale.

“I’m a true believer in the way something is raised, how it comes out in the flavor of the meat. And if you drive up to Circle B [Ranch, in Seymour, Missouri], all you have to do is take one look at these pigs to know that they’re happy.”

To get a taste of Kramer’s butchering chops, try the lamb tartare ($12). Served with toast points, grated egg white, and watercress, the ground lamb is unforgettable, its mild, fresh flavor beautifully accentuated by pickled capers and lemon vinaigrette.