Tag: Rendezvous

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

FOOD NEWS BITES: Put More Rendezvous In Your Pantry

More Rendezvous sauces for your kitchen (Credit: Courtesy of Rendezvous)

I love everything I’ve ever eaten at the Rendezvous. Whether it’s the ribs, the beans, or that unique slaw, you know it when you taste something from the Rendezvous. Their food has that distinctive Rendezvous taste. 

And, when you leave Rendezvous, people around you know where you’ve just eaten because your clothes smell like the Rendezvous.

You can now buy more Rendezvous products, in addition to the restaurant’s signature sauce and rub. According to a news release, Rendezvous Marinade is “the original recipe to baste and flavor our world-famous ribs,” and Greek Seasoning is “Our medley of spices from our Greek heritage.” In addition, Nick’s Salt & Pepper Blend, “a perfect portioned salt-and-pepper mix,” is in production and is slated to be available in stores or online in the coming months.

Items already available include: Famous Rendezvous Seasoning; Original Rendezvous Sauce; Hot Rendezvous Sauce; Charlie’s Select Sauce; and Tigertail Rendezvous Sweet Glazed Mustard.

The new items are “not anything we hadn’t had for years and years,” says John Vergos, one of the restaurant’s owners. “But we just decided to produce it for public consumption. Put our baste in a bottle, and our Greek seasoning and our different seasonings and our Nick’s salt and pepper in a jar, ‘cause it’s really good stuff.”

Vergos describes the salt-and-pepper concoction, which is from the recipe of his brother, the late Nick Vergos, as “really good salt and really good pepper.” And Nick “did some things to it.” But John isn’t going to divulge any more information.

“We’ve never decided to franchise, but we’re still capitalists over here,” Vergos says. “And we like to grow. And we realize we’ve got these wonderful products that people have enjoyed. We let people take some home, call us back and say they’re wonderful.”

Veergos says they’re working on putting out their mother’s Greek salad dressing to the public. Asked to describe the dressing made by their mother, the late Tasia Vergos, John says, “Well, it’s like your good olive oil and vinegar. And, of course, some oregano in it. Salt, pepper, garlic, a few other items. I won’t disclose the whole thing.”

The restaurant began bottling the seasoning in the late ‘80s and then the sauce. “That’s pretty much been it,” says Vergos. “But we’ve always let people take home some of our basics. Nick used to give people his salt and pepper for Christmas presents. We ship this stuff all over the country.”

I asked John to describe that unique Rendezvous barbecue sauce. “It’s not heavy and gooey. And you can taste the mustard and the vinegar in it. It’s good but not overpowering to the meat.” As for the seasoning, he says, “People put it on everything from deviled eggs to a dash in a Bloody Mary.”

The Rendezvous rub is “what started people making dry rubs,” John says. And that’s thanks to his dad, the late Charlie Vergos, who founded the Rendezvous. “My dad was the first.” People put salt and pepper on meat they were going to barbecue, Vergos says, but not dry rubs like his dad made. “I don’t think you have a well-stocked cupboard unless you have some Louisiana hot sauce and some Rendezvous seasoning in it.”

Rendezvous products are available at several locations, including Kroger and Novel. bookstore, and online at hogsfly.com.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Notable Memphians Dish on Their Must-Have Holiday Meals, Drinks

(Credit: Gayatri Malhotra on Unsplash)

Since this is the season to indulge, Memphis notables (and one former Memphian) were asked, “What is an essential something you must eat or drink at this time of year or it won’t feel like the holidays?”

Unapologetic founder James “IMAKEMADBEATS” Dukes: “Probably my dad’s peach cobbler. His peach cobbler is pretty famous. It’s the attention to detail in the crust. He’ll add pineapple to it [the filling]. He just has a very unique approach to peach cobbler. During the holidays, people will legit ask it to be sent to other cities. If people are swinging through town and happen to be there, they will request it.”

Paula & Raiford’s Disco owner Paula Raiford: 
“I have to have the homemade pound cake. My best friend’s [Tiffany Conrad] cousin (Angela Gaines makes it). It is dee-lish. One, it is homemade. She doesn’t bake as much as she used to. She always does it for Thanksgiving and Christmas. You know you’re going to get it and it makes it taste better because you know you’re going to get it for Christmas. You don’t get it year round.”

Grammy-winning engineer/producer Matt Ross-Spang:
“I eat it all year round, but the first thing that comes to mind is gravy. I just love it so much. You put it on everything: the turkey, the dressing, the ham, the rolls, the green beans.”

Memphis Whistle executive chef Kyle Gairhan:
“Latkes and stuffing. I’m Jewish. Those are the two things I think of during the holidays. Stuffing starts around Thanksgiving. And latkes for Hanukkah. [Made from] sourdough, onions, celery, butter.”

Former city Mayor AC Wharton:
“Eggnog. [With] Southern Comfort. In my hometown, there was no alcohol, so my mother made boiled custard. But there was a bootlegger who lived next door to us. And the only time Daddy spiked his boiled custard was at Christmas. He slipped across the fence to the neighbor to get a little nip in his boiled custard, which made it eggnog. The difference between boiled custard is just that. No spices and certainly no alcohol. But you could get a dispensation on Christmas to put a half teaspoon of bootleg stuff in it. And that made it eggnog. But only my daddy could do that. Now that I’m grown, I can have eggnog. When I was a kid, it was boiled custard.”

Performer Al Kapone:
“My mom’s baked spaghetti. My mom’s baked spaghetti is just amazing. It’s always festive. Number one, she bakes it. Number two, she puts these cheddar cheese chunks in it. I don’t know what all the other ingredients she puts in, but the distinctive sharp cheddar cheese chunks, when you go in and get you a helping of spaghetti, you get those nice, melted sharp cheddar cheese chunks in every  bite. It lights you up like a Christmas tree. That’s how good it is. My mom’s spaghetti is a staple for any holiday. When she cooks that, I’m excited. I’m in a festive mood.”

Dave’s Bagels owner/founder Dave Scott:
“No-bake cookies. One hundred percent. My wife [makes them]. It started with my mother. My mother’s been making them for years, my whole life. You’ve probably had them before. They’re chocolate peanut butter oatmeal cookies. Blend it all together in a little pot. Drop off little drops of that while it’s hot on the wax paper and it cools into a cookie. Whenever I see those around I know the holidays are close.”

Wrestler Jerry Lawler:
“It’s just been a long-time tradition of mine. When I tell people this, they say, ‘Oh, my gosh. Are you kidding me?’ It’s the old tried-and-true Claxton fruitcake. I have to have the Claxton. This year, back before Thanksgiving, they had them at Sam’s Club. Big packs of three of them. I’ve gone through one. I’ve got two brand-new ones to finish off before Christmas. I think the thing about the Claxton is there really is no ‘cake.’ It’s just all fruit. I don’t know what they’ve done to the fruit to make it almost like a solid piece of custard. Very little cake. Just all sugary fruit. People hate fruitcake. I don’t know what the deal is. Johnny Carson used to tell this joke on his show: There’s only one fruitcake in the world and it gets re-gifted every year to different people. It never gets eaten. It just gets regifted.”

Wrestler Jimmy Hart, professional wrestler/former Memphian now living in Tampa, Florida:
“I don’t drink, but just eggnog. I think it’s according to where you live. Hot chocolate if you’re up north. I think eggnog. You only see it during Christmas time, don’t you? If it’s Christmas time, it’s eggnog with or without liquor.”

Note: On New Year’s Eve, Hart and Lawler will reunite to sing — yes, sing, not wrestle — at King Jerry Lawler’s Hall of Fame Bar & Grille on Beale Street. “We’re going to do about an hour-long set,” Lawler says. “We’re going to sing in the New Year.”

Chef/owner of Alcenia’s restaurant, B. J. Chester-Tamayo: “Christmas, Thanksgiving, or Easter, you must have chicken and dressing. In the Chester household no ifs, ands, or buts. As long as I have lived, I’ve had chicken and dressing. Except maybe once when she was in the hospital, I had my mom’s. Out of 67 years of my life, if it wasn’t her chicken and dressing she made, it was her recipe.”

How was the chicken and dressing she bought?
“It was absolutely terrible.”

Grammy-winning record producer Lawrence “Boo” Mitchell: “I smoke a turkey every year and I have been for 10 years or probably longer. Turkey. It just has to happen.”

And what does Mitchell like on his turkey?
“Oh, bourbon. Four Roses bourbon, please.”

Rendezvous restaurant owner John Vergos:
“Except for this year since my mother isn’t doing it, we have to have spanakopita. Spinach pie. I think that she’s recognized among the Greeks in Memphis as making the best spanakopita. She doesn’t write it [the recipe] down. You have to watch her. She’s fine. We’re just doing it at my sister’s and we’re just not going to have it this year. We had it Thanksgiving and we’re not having it Christmas.”

So, how does Vergos feel about that?
“It’s just not Christmas.”

Categories
News The Fly-By

MEMernet: Rib Rewind, Tweet of the Week, Little Nuke

Rib Rewind

The Rendezvous took us back to the present last week with a rib-laced re-creation photo.

Three Navy football players tried the restaurant in 1981, in town for a game against Ohio State. The same guys booked flights to Memphis for last month’s Navy/Kansas State Liberty Bowl game and had those ribs again.

Posted to Twitter by The Rendezvous

Tweet of the Week

“No pics but getting to see @Davecousar, @amylavere, Will Sexton, and @ShawnZorn together at a burger joint (@HueysRestaurant) is the type of thing that I moved here for.”

Posted to Twitter by @harmonicaboy

Little Nuke

“Last night’s sunset looked like someone nuked Little Rock.”

Posted to Reddit by u/syo

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Memphis Ranked Best Barbecue City in America

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Justin Fox Burks

Ribs. Pulled pork. Brisket. Memphis is synonymous with barbecue, so it should surprise no one that we’ve just ranked #1 on yet another national BBQ list (eat your heart out, Nashville).

A new report from Apartment Guide has named Memphis the #1 Best BBQ City in the US. As the home of barbecue nachos, fries, pizza, and even spaghetti, it’s clear that Memphis is the place to be if you’re a barbecue fanatic.

The Apartment Guide report ranked every U.S. city by the percentage of barbecue restaurants to all restaurants to determine the top 10 best barbecue cities in the country.

The study recognized 6,300 cities across the U.S. with at least one barbecue restaurant each (based on a database of more than 8 million commercially available business listings.) They then weeded out cities with less than 50,000 people and divided the number of barbecue restaurants by the total number of restaurants in each city to determine the percentage of barbecue establishments for each. The cities with the highest percentage of barbecue restaurants were then deemed to be the best barbecue cities in the country.

Memphis tops the list at #1, with the highest percentage of barbecue restaurants (12.09%), followed by Minnetonka, Minnesota, at #2 and DeSoto, Texas, at #3.

According to the report, “Not only does the River City have the highest ratio of barbecue restaurants in the nation, but it also has the third overall most barbecue joints behind only the much larger Houston and Chicago.” The report lists the world-famous Central BBQ, Payne’s, and Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous as quintessential examples of our city’s best ’cue.

So there you have it: Memphis might not be the biggest or most populous barbecue city, but we sure do take our barbecue the most seriously –– proudly touting roughly 142 total barbecue joints in the city limits alone.

Read the full report at apartmentguide.com.

Categories
News The Fly-By

MEMernet: Graceland G-7, Titanic Potholes, and “Dis Tornado”

G-7 at Graceland

A New Yorker cartoon had Donald Trump considering Graceland as an alternative site for the G-7.

Dis tornado

Severe weather tore through Memphis last week, taking many by surprise as they woke up to the sound of tornado alarms. The storm took Memphis Twitter by storm, too.

“I hope dis tornado swing by my job & rip dat MF out tha ground,” wrote Emmet Durley.

“My girl phone start ringing at 6 a.m. I’m like who tf is flash flood,” Deion Sanders tweeted.

“Sirens so mf loud I thought we was finna have a purge!!” wrote Karla Denise.

Wolver-Rendezvous

An online version of X-Men comic spinoff Marauders found Wolverine issuing a shopping list to Kitty Pride. Top of the list? Ribs.

“From Rendezvous in Memphis (they’ll FedEx it to you),” reads the list. “Have dry ice ready.”

Titanic potholes

Posted to Reddit by u/Iswearimnotavampire.

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We Recommend We Saw You

Nick Vergos, Exposure, Art on the Rocks, Stock Exchange

This photo may be at the first Zoo Rendezvous. That’s Nick Vergos (at left) and his dad, the late Charlie Vergos, who founded the Rendezvous. That is my real hair.

A tribute to the late Nick Vergos, an owner of the Rendezvous restaurant, was part of the restaurant’s serving station at the 36th Zoo Rendezvous, which was held September 7th. Vergos died two days before the event.


Vergos and the late Thomas Boggs of Huey’s and The Boxtops fame started Zoo Rendezvous at the Memphis Zoo, says Vergos’s brother, John Vergos. “It used to be called Rendezvous at the Zoo,” John says.

Zoo Rendezvous now is Memphis Zoo’s biggest fundraiser.

The Rendezvous is “an integral part of the event,” says Tim Dalfiume, Memphis Zoo director of events.

“They used to do ribs and smoke them on sight,” he says. “Now, they do skewers of pickled sausage and cheese.”

The Rendezvous and Huey’s, another Zoo Rendezvous mainstay, are “very iconic to the event.”


Michael Donahue

A tribute to the late Nick Vergos was at the Rendezvous booth at Zoo Rendezvous. Lorn Green helped man the booth.

Michael Donahue

Art on the Rocks

It was so hot at Dixon Gallery and Gardens’s Art on the Rocks, the event almost could have been called “Art on Fire.” But Art on Fire is another Dixon fundraiser. It’s going to be held October 19th.

About 1,000 attended Art on the Rocks, which was held September 6th, says Kristen Rambo with Dixon. “Some even in the celebrated color for the year – purple – and had a beautiful night at the Dixon,” she says. “We are pleased with how well everyone has embraced this new take on a beloved event.”

This was the second year for Art on the Rocks, which, previously, was Art on Tap. You still could get beer at Art on the Rocks, but cocktails were the main focus.

“This year was a record breaker for fun. Attendance was great, but no records were broken.”

And, Rambo says, “The money we raise for this event goes towards programming for all ages. The new friends we make at this event is also of great value.”

Michael Donahue

Kevin Sharp and Chantal Drake at Art on the Rocks.

Michael Donahue

Art on the Rocks

Michael Donahue

Lauren Macyauski and Jacob Laurence at Art on the Rocks.

Michael Donahue

Nathan Reisman and a shorter fellow at Exposure,

Those who took part in New Memphis’ Exposure, got a lot of exposure.

“This year we had 203 plus organizations, 900 plus volunteer hours pledged, and 5,725 plus connections made between organizations and attendees,” says New Memphis event specialist Nora Bisaccio. “These are all record-breaking numbers.”

Exposure, she says, “is an event that celebrates all things Memphis and helps Memphians turn their love of the city into action.”

This year’s Exposure was held August 29th at FedExForum. Visitors to the free event learned about Ballet Memphis, Memphis Brooks Museum of Art, and hundreds of other local organizations. Brochures were handed out at booths. Cookies were handed out at one of them.

Cameron Mann, carrying a bag of brochures, says, “I call this adult trick or treating.”

His bag was “full of Memphis goodness.”

The bag was “totally full,” Mann says. And he’d only been at Exposure 30 minutes.

Michael Donahue

Beale Street Flippers at Expsoure

Michael Donahue

Exposure

Michael Donahue

Exposure

Michael Donahue

Memphis Grizzline Drumline at Exposure

Michael Donahue

Exposure

MIchael Donahue

Stock Exchange preview party

Guests at the Les Passees Stock Exchange preview party, which was held September 5th, were able to buy antiques, home furnishings, and other items before the consignment shop opened the next day.

This year, Stock Exchange is at 888 White Station Road next to Bed, Bath & Beyond.

Between now and November 3rd, people can shop for items on consignment. Consignments will be taken until October 25th.

Les Passees president Kathy Sapp discovered this year’s location, which was donated by Belz Enterprises. “Ron Belz has been so gracious to us.”

And, she says, “I cannot begin to tell you how blessed I feel that we are in that location. That location has made all the difference in the world. I guess because it’s so accessible. Everybody comes in that part of town at some point. It’s easy to pop in and out whether dropping kids at school or going to the beauty shop, or having their nails done. It’s made it easy for lunch hour, too. Lunch hours we’re slammed.”

What is Les Passees? “Our mission is to help children and their families in our community. We support local charities: Les Passees Kids on the Block, which is a puppet troupe that does a Japanese theater form of puppetry – bunraku. The other one is the Harwood Center for children with disabilities.”


Michael Donahue

Stock Exchange preview party

                                    WE SAW YOU AROUND TOWN

Michael Donahue

Julie, Santiago, and Manuel Castro at Julie’s birthday party.

Michael Donahue

Mateo Rayo at Julie Castro birthday party.

Michael Donahue

Alec Dawson and Lia Morris on Front Street.

Categories
Cover Feature News

Barbecurious!

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Memphis has long been host to the biggest barbecue act around — balancing gritty kitchen smarts with a sweet disposition and a slow-cooking way of life.

No doubt you’ve seen the main event: pork ribs crusted with salty, spicy rub and doused with sweet, smoky sauce; sandwiches piled high with tender pulled pork, dripping with tangy sauce and creamy slaw.

But there are other attractions in town — some you won’t find in a typical tourist guide or brochure. The fact is, Memphians will barbecue just about anything. Read on for a peek at some of Memphis’ uniquely delicious twists on barbecue basics. From cultural crossovers to barbecue beer — behold, the barbecuriosities!

Korean Barbecue at DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar

Memphis barbecue purists probably won’t allow that what DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar serves is actually barbecue. DWJ’s ‘cue is cooked over a gas flame right at your table — no wood or charcoal involved — and for some sticklers, that’s a deal-breaker. But when it comes to flavor and spice, Korean barbecue, like the best Memphis-style preparations, really delivers.

Barbecue pork bellies — which should really appeal to pig-centric Memphians — come to the table coated in a flavorful red chili sauce and laden with mushrooms and onions. DWJ’s barbecue short ribs are thinly sliced and not nearly as sweet as Korean ribs can be, which is a good thing. Lightly marinated in minced garlic and sesame oil, the ribs are served with plenty of condiments and can be piled onto lettuce leaves with a blob of rice, a schmear of bean paste, some fresh green chili slices, and thinly shaved chunks of garlic and eaten like a wrap. Too much fuss? Just grab your chopsticks and eat them right off the grill. — Chris Davis

DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar, 3750 Hacks Cross, 746-8057

Lamb Riblets at the Rendezvous

This is counterprogramming at its finest. Who on earth would go to the world-famous Rendezvous and order lamb? I would and did. The serving consists of six or seven chunky, two-rib sections coated with Rendezvous dry rub. The lamb meat is much thicker than the Rendezvous’ pork ribs — plump, even — and pulls off the bone easily. It’s got a fine, tender, chewy consistency with a slight, lamb-y aftertaste. I added Rendezvous sauce to the rub and greatly enjoyed these off-the-beaten-path riblets.

The price is $18.75, the same as a full order of pork ribs, and the lamb riblets come with the same sides: slaw, beans, and a roll. I can eat a full order of pork ribs, but I couldn’t finish these — too much meat for one sitting. So, I took some home to enjoy the next day. Verdict: not baaahed at all. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous,

52 South Second, 523-2746

Char-Grilled Oysters at Pearl’s Oyster House

Fishermen scour the rocky coastline and sandy ocean floor to bring these pale, watery creatures to Memphis, so Memphis does what we do best: We barbecue them.

I’m not a great oyster aficionado, but I love the char-grilled oysters at Pearl’s. And what’s not to love? Oysters on the half-shell are sauced with a tangy, barbecuey, chipotle-garlic blend, then sprinkled with shaved Parmesan cheese. The little morsels are then shoved under a charbroiler long enough that the cheese gets browned to a chewy, crispy texture and the sauce is bubbling. A half-dozen, served on a rock-salt platter with a little spinach, also crispy and grilled, will set you back $9.99. But go for a dozen at $19.99. It’s seafood — how bad for you can it be? And these things are delicious. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Pearl’s Oyster House, 299 South Main, 522-9070

Cornish Game Hen at Cozy Corner

For 30 years, Cozy Corner, a tiny barbecue shack on North Parkway just east of Danny Thomas, has done things just a little bit differently from Memphis’ other pig palaces. Take, for instance, the most perfect thing on Cozy Corner’s menu: the barbecued Cornish game hen. So what if Cornish hens aren’t exotic game birds? And who cares if they aren’t always hens? These young chickens are Cozy Corner’s elegant, personal-sized twist on good old-fashioned barbecue chicken.

The Corner’s hens are cooked dry with a tasty spice rub until the skin is a beautiful mahogany color and the rich, smoky flavor goes all the way to the bone. They are served wet, with a thin, sweet-and-sour sauce that can be ordered mild or spicy but which might be more correctly labeled spicy and spicier. At $11 without sides, it may seem a little pricey, but it’s worth every penny. — Chris Davis

Cozy Corner, 745 North Parkway, 527-9158

BBQ Beer at Jack Magoo’s

While beer cocktails may be considered eclectic to the light-beer-drinkin’ masses, they’re not terribly uncommon. The British black and tan — half pale ale, half porter or stout — and the German Radler — half pilsner, half lemonade or soda — started showing up in pubs and biergardens close to a century ago and deserve their place in the world of beer. But the skeptics aren’t completely off the mark, with drinks like Jack Magoo’s BBQ beer out there.

A mix of Bud Light, Bloody Mary mix, Cattleman’s BBQ sauce, and olives garnishing, BBQ beer tastes more like a Bloody Mary than anything else. Its tomato, Worcestershire sauce, and peppery heat mixed with subtle, sweet barbecue notes make for a compelling combination. For those of you who enjoy a good Bloody Mary but are looking for an interesting take on the cocktail, this might be right up your alley — especially at a mere $2. — Andrew Caldwell

Jack Magoo’s Sports Bar and Grill, 2583 Broad, 746-9612

BBQ Tofu Burrito at R.P. Tracks

R.P. Tracks claims its barbecue tofu is “world famous.” And while international prominence might be a stretch, their deep-fried, ‘cue-covered bean curd is at least locally famous. It’s perhaps best known for its starring role in Tracks’ BBQ Tofu Nachos (tofu, black beans, tomatoes, cheese, and sour cream atop a bed of seasoned tortilla chips). But the BBQ Tofu Burrito may actually be the best tofu-to-mouth delivery method. The same toppings from those nachos are stuffed into a massive tortilla wrap (available in a white flour, wheat, sun-dried tomato basil, or spinach tortilla) topped with cheese (optional for vegans) and black olives. It’s a little hefty for lifting, so a fork (and maybe a to-go box) is recommended. Of course, you won’t miss out on those perfectly seasoned chips by skipping out on nachos. They’re served as a side item with Tracks’ signature garlicky tomato salsa. — Bianca Phillips

R.P. Tracks, 3547 Walker, 327-1471

Barbecue Brunswick Stew at the Germantown Commissary

Brunswick stew being served at a barbecue joint may only be considered sideshow in Memphis, the Mid-South, and the Delta. But in many other barbecue capitals in the South, Brunswick stew topped with pulled pork is a staple. Its recipe varies, and where the stew originated is up for debate, with folks from Georgia, Virginia, and North Carolina vying for the honor.

The hearty soup offered at the Germantown Commissary comes chock-a-block full of stewed tomatoes, green beans, corn, and lima beans, and the restaurant’s signature hickory-smoked pulled pork makes a big island in the middle. You can get a bowl for $5.50 — a generous portion that’s a meal — or as a side dish for $2.50. Crumble in some of the slab of cornbread provided to lend some sweetness to the spicy endeavor. — Greg Akers

The Germantown Commissary, 2290 Germantown Road, 754-5540

The Original Barbecue Pizza at Coletta’s

Eating barbecue pizza in the “Elvis Room” at the original Coletta’s on South Parkway is a singular Memphis experience. The “we can turn anything into barbecue” ethos we celebrate in this issue was arguably born in second-generation owner Horest Coletta’s kitchen in the 1950s. The basic concept — a sturdy, medium-crust cheese pizza topped with smoked pork and barbecue sauce — has become fairly common, especially with chicken, and has probably been improved on. But this where it began. And the atmosphere can’t be beat. The wood paneling and checkerboard tablecloths transport you back to the era of the barbecue pizza’s creation, while the Elvis paraphernalia framed along the walls — which includes the front page of The Commercial Appeal from the day after his death and appears as if it’s been unchanged for decades — pays proper tribute to a former regular who may himself have been among the first to savor this quintessentially Memphis creation. — Chris Herrington

Coletta’s, 1063 South Parkway, 948-7652

Barbecue Portobello Sandwich at Central BBQ

In the beginning there was tofu.

Central BBQ, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary and is on the verge of opening a third location, has well established that barbecue is indeed central with its award-winning ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, and hot wings. From the start, says owner Craig Blondis, they knew they wanted to offer diners a vegetarian option. They tried a barbecue tofu sandwich, but they couldn’t figure out how to keep the tofu from falling apart, so they switched to the heartier Portobello mushroom.

The Portobello is marinated in a mix of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, oregano, thyme, and garlic and then grilled. The sandwich is topped with smoked Gouda, slaw, and the restaurant’s mild barbecue sauce.

Blondis estimates that he sells 30 to 40 of the sandwiches each week. And while he notes that he’s had customers request that the barbecue Portobello sandwich be topped with pork, he says that this one’s for the vegetarians: “It’s for people who don’t eat meat to take part in the experience.” — Susan Ellis

Central BBQ, 2249 Central, 272-9377

BBQ Spaghetti at The Bar-B-Q Shop

If you’re from Memphis, chances are you’re quite familiar with barbecue spaghetti. But outside the Mid-South, this spin on the standard spaghetti side dish is a true novelty. You might think barbecue spaghetti would be a simple concept, merely replacing a traditional Bolognese sauce with barbecue sauce and smoked pork. But, at the BBQ Shop at least, it’s not that simple.

“People think it’s just our sauce and oil,” owner Eric Vernon says, “but it’s not.” Rather, at the Vernon family’s Midtown institution, cooked spaghetti is finished off in a base that’s considerably sweeter than the Shop’s tart sauce and then mixed with an au jus left over from the cooked pork. This infuses the pasta itself with a smoky, sweet flavor entirely unlike the restaurant’s Dancing Pigs sauce, which is added to the top along with a pile of chopped pork. A personal confession: For about three or four bites, I think this is one of the best things ever. But I find it almost too intense for further consumption. It’s perfect for a side. Others have the stamina to make a meal of it. — Chris Herrington

The Bar-B-Q Shop, 1782 Madison, 272-1277

24th Annual ASBEE Kosher BBQ Contest

While the annual Memphis in May barbecue festival was gaining its current international reputation, a parallel local event has also landed a place for itself on the festival map. This one, the annual ASBEE Kosher BBQ Contest, on the sprawling East Memphis grounds of the Anshei Sphard Beth El Emeth Congregation, is held in the fall — at just about that time (October 21st, this year) when fond gustatory memories of the barbecue festival itself may have faded.

Which is to say, the ASBEE event (“the world’s largest,” and maybe the only one of its kind, say the sponsors), while it is genuinely kosher — in that no pork products are served and other dietary restrictions are observed — is open to everyone. As the proprietors put it, “You don’t have to be Jewish or kosher to join us!” 

Competition is usually in three categories, brisket and ribs and beans (yes, beans), with chicken recipes sometimes admitted. Radio legend and longtime Elvis bud George Klein is the emcee, and local celebrities, both Jewish and non-Jewish, serve as judges. A basketball tournament, a pickle-eating contest, and train rides and other frolics for the kiddies complement the eats. Nosh away! — Jackson Baker

1st Annual Cochon Heritage BBQ

When Cochon 555, a sui generis (dare we say, sooey generis?) swine-wine-and-dine event made its first stop in Memphis this year, foodies were beside themselves with joy. So when Cochon founder Brady Lowe announced that the inaugural Cochon Heritage BBQ event would be held in Memphis, we nearly swooned. This Labor Day, chefs, farmers, distillers, wine-makers, and pig-lovers will come together (at a location to be determined) to celebrate the union of heritage pork and whiskey for National Bourbon Month. Tastings, demonstrations, and some good old-fashioned competition will keep festivalgoers entertained while they stuff themselves to the gills with whiskey and pork. Above all, the event is dedicated to bringing heritage breed hogs back into the tradition of barbecue in one of the world’s biggest barbecue cities. — Hannah Sayle

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Charlie Vergos, 1926-2010

Charlie Vergos in 1968

  • Charlie Vergos in 1968

Charlie Vergos, who turned a cluttery barbecue restaurant tucked away in a downtown alley into a Memphis — no, I’d say a national — institution, passed away Saturday morning. Considered by many as the unofficial “mayor” of Memphis, he will be missed by many, and his praises will be sung by others better at these things than I am.

I had just found an interesting old news tidbit on Charlie just a few days ago, and I guess there’s no better time to share it.

Lots of people think that The Rendezvous has always been in that exact same location, just across from The Peabody, but that’s not true. When Charlie started the place back in the late 1940s, it was originally in a different alley — the one with the unusual name of November 6th Street — a block away. They always say “location, location, location” is the most important thing in the restaurant business, and I guess Charlie just had a thing for alleys. A December 1968 story in KEY magazine told about the move to the new location and included the rather dark and grainy photo that you see here.

Here’s the story:

NEW LOCATION FOR CHARLES VERGOS
The changing Memphis skyline has made many firms relocate. When plans were announced to tear down the building above him, Charles Vergos had to move his Rendezvous. He is now open just a block away from his old address in the alley called November 6th Street. His new address is the Downtowner Alley behind the Downtowner Motor Inn, between Monroe and Union. Enter the alley from Union, between 2nd and 3rd Streets, which is between the present Downtowner Building and its new high-rise addition. Charlie has retained much of the captivating atmosphere of the old place with many surprising new features of the new location. Specialty of the house? His nationally famous charcoal ribs, of course.

It would have been interesting, I think, to see the Rendezvous when it was brand-new. The place seems ancient and rather timeless, and I hope it always remains so. But don’t go searching for it in the “Downtowner Alley.” City leaders renamed the lane Charles Vergos Rendezvous Alley years ago in his honor.

Rest in peace, Mr. Vergos. You were quite a guy.

PHOTO COURTESY KEY MAGAZINE

Categories
Best of Memphis Special Sections

Best of Food & Drink

CREDIT: Alex Harrison

Alex Harrison

Buttery tikka masala, tender tandoori, spicy vegetable dishes, and all other manner of Indian specialties are served at Midtown institution India Palace in its airy, comfortable Poplar Avenue location.

We’ll admit we find it adorable when, in the “Best Chef” category,
you write in “My Wife,” “My Husband,” or, better yet, “My Mom.” (The
answer “Your Mom’s House” for “Best Romantic Restaurant” is not so
cute.) Chef Boyardee didn’t stand a chance with only two votes for
“Best Chef,” but at least he’s got bragging rights over Mrs. Winner
who, despite the name and the chicken and biscuits, got only one
vote.

Justin Fox Burks

Kelly English, Restaurant Iris, 1st place: ‘Best Chef’

Best Chef

1. Kelly English, Restaurant Iris

2. Erling Jensen, Erling Jensen the Restaurant

3. John Bragg, Circa

Last October, Food & Wine magazine named Kelly English
one of the Top 10 “Best New Chefs” for 2009. That was quite the honor.
Now Flyer readers have vaulted English to the top spot for the
first time.

Best Lunch

1. Huey’s

2. Soul Fish

3. Lenny’s

Hey, you know all those other restaurants that were in the running
for “Best Lunch” in Memphis? Stick a toothpick in ’em. They’re done.
Huey’s gets the nod for lunch nosh this year.

Best Breakfast

1. Brother Juniper’s

2. Blue Plate Cafe

3. Bryant’s Breakfast

Oh Brother, Wherefore Art Chow? Sorry. Brother J. has won “Best
Breakfast” many times, and it’s because they offer delicious,
innovative, homemade food in an eclectic space crammed with interesting
people, especially on weekend mornings.

Best Romantic Restaurant

1. Paulette’s

2. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

3. The Melting Pot

Maybe it’s the desserts. Or maybe the soft tinkling of the ivories.
Or maybe just the wonderful menu, nice wine list, and warm ambience.
Paulette’s is a classic.

Best Sunday Brunch

1. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

2. Boscos Squared

3. Peabody Skyway — tie —

Beauty Shop

Owen Brennan’s sits at the cusp of Germantown and East Memphis, but
it draws Memphians from all over for its New Orleans-themed Sunday
brunch: the best in town for 2009.

Best Wine List

1. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

2. Texas de Brazil

3. Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse

Le Chardonnay moved across Madison Avenue a couple years ago, but it
has retained its dark, ski-lodge-y charm, its extensive wine list, and
first place for “Best Wine List” in your hearts.

Best Steak

1. Folk’s Folly Prime Steak House

2. Ruth’s Chris Steak House

3. The Butcher Shop

Folk’s Folly valets meet you at the curb. Once inside, you hear
sweet piano-bar stylings and the sound of cold drinks and cocktail
chatter. But who are we kidding? It’s all about the steak here, and
Folk’s Folly’s steaks sizzle!

Best Barbecue

1. Central BBQ

2. Corky’s

3. The Bar-B-Q Shop

Central BBQ takes top honor in what is probably the toughest
category in this poll: “Best Barbecue.” No matter how you spell it
— barbecue, BBQ, Bar-B-Q, whatever — Central’s on top
again.

Best Ribs

1. Charles Vergos’ Rendezvous

2. Central BBQ

3. Corky’s

The Rendezvous is sometimes derided as a place where tourists go to
eat Memphis’ most famous food group (16 barbecued ribs), but the
Flyer‘s poll makes it clear that locals love the Rendezvous as
much as people wearing Elvis T-shirts. And well they should.

Best Burger

BOM 1. Huey’s

2. Earnestine & Hazel’s

3. The Belmont Grill

That “BOM” designation means Huey’s has won “Best Burger” for so
long that it’s not even fair to anybody else in the running. Lots of
places in Memphis make good burgers, but only one takes the top spot,
year after year after year.

Best Hot Wings

1. Buffalo Wild Wings

2. D’Bo’s Buffalo Wings-n-Things

3. Central BBQ

With five Memphis-area locations, 14 sauces (ranging in heat from
“Blazin'” to “Sweet Barbecue”), and TVs set to sports everywhere you
look, Buffalo Wild Wings is leading the city’s wing scene.

Best Fried Chicken

BOM 1. Gus’s Fried Chicken

2. Popeye’s Chicken & Biscuits

3. Jack Pirtle Fried Chicken

If you want to eat lunch at Gus’s, you’d better get there early.
Folks line up for the crispy, smoky, spicy uniqueness that makes Gus’s
fried chicken better than anybody’s in Memphis. Or in the world.

Best Cajun/Creole

1. Bayou Bar & Grill

2. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

3. Pearl’s Oyster House

The Bayou, like its sister restaurant, Le Chardonnay, hasn’t missed
a beat by moving across Madison. It’s bigger, but it still has a nice
patio, cold beer, stellar gumbo, and lots of other Cajun
delectables.

Justin Fox Burks

Petra, 1st place: ‘Best Mediterranean’

Best Mediterranean

1. Petra

2. Casa Grill

3. Petra Cafe

What’s more Midtown than this: Greek-Korean fusion in a restaurant
housed in a former gas station/garage, with patio seating right next to
the pumps? Spanikopita, moussaka, falafel — Petra is Greek
delicious. And the Korean soups and kimchi are fabulous too.

Best Dessert

1. Paulette’s

2. Beauty Shop

3. Kooky Canuck

Restaurants come and go, but Paulette’s “K-Pie” is a constant. Rich
coffee ice cream in a pecan-coconut crust, topped with whipped cream
and Kahlua, the Midtown institution’s Kahlua-mocha parfait pie is a
classic but not their most popular dessert. That designation apparently
belongs to the restaurant’s hot chocolate crepe. With crème
brûlée, Key lime pie, and other desserts dotting the menu,
Paulette’s is where Memphians go for post-dinner sweets.

Best Italian

1. Ronnie Grisanti & Sons Restaurant (now closed)

2. Pete & Sam’s

3. Bari — tie —

Ciao Bella Italian Grill

Long synonymous with Italian dining in Memphis, Ronnie Grisanti’s
closed its doors in August after a 25-year run at its Chickasaw Oaks
Plaza location on Poplar. But Memphians won’t be without the Grisanti
family’s authentic Tuscan cuisine, which has delighted local diners for
generations. Most of the restaurant’s staff — including Ronnie
himself — will relocate to the family’s Germantown location,
Elfo’s, which will be renamed simply Grisanti’s.

Best Mexican

1. El Porton Mexican Restaurant

2. Happy Mexican

3. Taqueria La Guadalupana

In an increasingly saturated local Mexican food scene, El Porton
maintains the top spot with five area locations, quick, reasonably
price lunches, a diverse menu, a full bar, and happy-hour specials.

Best Chinese

1. P.F. Chang’s

2. Wang’s Mandarin House

3. A-Tan

National chain P.F. Chang’s became a big local hit when it opened
its lone Memphis location — on Ridgeway in East Memphis — a
few years ago. In P.F. Chang’s large, opulent dining room, patrons can
feast on a diverse array of Chinese classics such as Mongolian beef,
ginger chicken, and spicy dumplings.

Best Thai

1. Bhan Thai

2. Bangkok Alley

3. Jasmine

Located in a large, converted Midtown house (the former home of
restaurant Maison Raji), Bhan Thai offers intensely flavorful Thai
dishes — masaman curry, pad thai, crispy duck, coconut-milk-based
soups, etc. — in an elegant atmosphere full of character, from
its small, intimate dining rooms to its popular patio in the back.

Best Vietnamese

1. Saigon Le

2. Pho Saigon

3. Pho Hoa Binh

This no-frills Midtown eatery has a loyal clientele because of its
focus on the food, which includes authentic Vietnamese specialties
— fresh spring rolls, great pho soups, vermicelli and tofu
dishes, and plenty of vegetarian options.

Best Japanese/Sushi

1. Sekisui

2. Blue Fin

3. Sekisui Pacific Rim

Restaurateur Jimmy Ishii has come to define Japanese cuisine, and
particularly sushi, in Memphis. The local chain is celebrating its 20th
birthday this year, first opening its Humphreys Center flagship
restaurant in 1989 and now covering the city with five locations.

Justin Fox Burks

Soul Fish, 1st place: ‘Best Home Cooking / Soul Food’

Best Home Cooking/Soul Food

1. Soul Fish

2. The Cupboard

3. Blue Plate Café

For exquisite catfish and hush puppies and a big daily selection of
veggies, it’s hard to order anything else off of Soul Fish’s menu. But
try their smoked half-chicken, and you’ll be doubling up on meals to
satisfy all your menu urges.

Best Vegetarian

BOM 1. Whole Foods Market

2. The Cupboard

3. Jasmine

Whole Foods Market, a foodie oasis on Poplar Avenue in East Memphis,
is more than a grocery store. Its large prepared-foods section —
pizzas, sandwiches, salad bar, bakery, coffee and juice bar — and
dining area make it a popular lunch and dinner spot for vegetarians and
health-food enthusiasts, in particular. Whole Foods also offers cooking
classes to help you find interesting things to do with the fresh and
healthy items they sell.

Best Seafood

1. Tsunami

2. Bonefish

3. The Half Shell

The anchor restaurant of Cooper-Young does it again, taking “Best
Seafood” for the millionth year in a row. Scallops, sea bass, mussels,
you name it, Chef Ben Smith and crew deliver a ship full of great taste
in a sophisticated atmosphere.

Best Pizza

BOM 1. Memphis Pizza Cafe

2. Garibaldi’s Pizza

3. Old Venice

Memphis Pizza Café was an instant hit when it opened in 1993
and has since expanded its local pizza empire to five locations, all
serving tasty, crispy pizzas, including such faves as the white-sauce
“alternative” and the zesty Cajun chicken.

Best Deli

1. Fino’s from the Hill

2. Bogie’s Delicatessen

3. Young Avenue Deli

What says Midtown more than the intersection of Madison and McLean?
And what says a great deli sandwich better than Fino’s from the Hill,
on that very Midtown corner? In addition to the popular made-to-order
sandwiches — cold cuts, cheeses, toppings, all on good crusty
bread — Fino’s offers pasta dishes and grocery items. That’s
Italian!

Best Server

1. Jeff Frisby, Restaurant Iris

2. Michele Fields, Calhoun’s Sports Bar

3. Jean Pruett, Bardog — tie —

Brent Skelton, The Kitchen

Jeff Frisby at Restaurant Iris must be doing something right. Last
year, he was named one of the city’s best servers in our Best Of poll.
This year, he’s done it again. Must be that Frisby knows not only how
to serve, he knows what to serve when it comes to vino: He’s Restaurant
Iris’ wine manager. (Factoid: All our winners in this category work in
Memphis’ new or newish restaurant/bars. Good to see Flyer
readers appreciate the city’s evolving food scene.)

Best Service

1. Chick-Fil-A

2. Texas de Brazil

3. Houston’s

Drive-thru or in-store, the crew behind the counter at any of
Memphis’ Chick-Fil-A locations have it down pat: your order in your
hands — fast. More amazing (and given the volume of business),
they do it, hands down, with the friendliest service in town.

Justin Fox Burks

Chick-Fil-A, 1st place: ‘Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant’

Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant

1. Chick-Fil-A

2. Chuck E. Cheese

3. Huey’s

We forgot to mention (see “Best Service”) that the crew at
Chick-Fil-A must have nerves of steel. As a new winner in the
kid-friendly restaurant category, these folks have what it takes when
children combine with fast food. Call it grace under pressure.

Best Local Late-Night Dining

1. Huey’s

2. Earnestine & Hazel’s

3. Young Avenue Deli

And we mean late. We’re talking, at several of Huey’s
multiple locations, a kitchen that’s open until 2 a.m. Don’t deny it.
At that hour and after some damage, what your body’s craving is a
burger and onion rings.

Best Place for People-Watching

1. Flying Saucer

2. Young Avenue Deli

3. Celtic Crossing

The corner of Beale and Second: The wide-open windows at downtown’s
Flyer Saucer aren’t there for no reason. Whether you’re in the
restaurant or passing on the sidewalk, this place was tailor-made for
people-watching. Evidence: During the Memphis Music and Heritage
Festival a few weekends ago, the place was jamming, inside and out.

Best Patio

1. Celtic Crossing

2. Boscos Squared

3. Cafe Olé

In a word: trivia. Celtic’s popular Wednesday-night tournament this
past summer had the patio packed. Any night, any season, though, will
do for a Guinness and some major hanging-out in Cooper-Young. Bonus
attraction: On this patio, you’re only a few steps from the scene on
the street.

Best Local Place That Delivers

1. Garibaldi’s Pizza

2. Young Avenue Deli

3. Camy’s

Another new winner in our Best Of poll: Garibaldi’s Pizza —
established 30 years ago by owner Mike Garibaldi — has three
locations for handmade pizzas, pastas, salads, wings, sandwiches,
sweets, and more. Garibaldi’s caters to not only what you’re hungry
for, according to readers, it really delivers.

Justin Fox Burks

Muddy’s Bake Shop, 1st place: ‘Best Bakery’

Best Bakery

1. Muddy’s Bake Shop

2. La Baguette

3. Fresh Market

Again: a new winner. And, according to Muddy’s website, if you’re
rude, whiny, impatient, or otherwise unpleasant, forget stepping inside
this bakeshop. If you’re green-minded and egg-headed (Muddy’s uses eggs
from cage-free, free-range hens), you’re welcome! Plus, who’s to argue
with a cupcake called “Prozac?”

Best Local Coffeehouse

1. High Point Coffee (now closed)

2. Otherlands

3. Café Eclectic — tie —

Republic Coffee

High Point Coffee just closed. (It’s the economy, stupid.) But
Otherlands, Cafe Eclectic, and Republic Coffee — the hotshots
rounding out your picks for best local coffeehouse — havestill
got their vibe going and the caffeine coming.

Best Restaurant

1. Restaurant Iris

2. Tsunami

3. Huey’s

Iris: It’s in the eye of the beholder. Restaurant Iris, “Best
Restaurant,” according to Memphians who value fine dining. In the space
of a year, nationally recognized chef Kelly English has succeeded in
turning Restaurant Iris into the city’s go-to address for exceptional
French-Creole-inspired cuisine. Doesn’t hurt that the restaurant also
features first-rate service in an intimate, romantic atmosphere.

Best New Restaurant

1. Flight

2. Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

3. Overton Park Pizze Stone

The interior’s gorgeous, but it’s the food at Flight that has
Flyer readers hooked — and voting. Flight’s “flights”
— a trio of tastings from the entrée, dessert, and wine
menus — make it a wonderful way to sample what’s cooking in the
kitchen. What’s on your table: small plates but great taste. Or you
want regular-size portions? No problem. You can order that way too.

Categories
Cover Feature News

The Quest for Fire

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

In the beginning there was nothing, and the universe sang the blues. But later, there was man, and it was good, and there was fire, and it was good, and there was pig, and it was good. And some good person (coulda been Adam, coulda been Eve) saw that fire and pig belonged together, and it was oh so good. (Funny story: Eve liked ribs so much she tried one of Adam’s. Meh, not much flavor.) In truth, nobody knows exactly where fire met pig, but everybody agrees on where it was perfected: Memphis, the Garden of Eatin’.

Fast-forward to today, when not only has the marriage of fire and pig been perfected in Memphis, it’s been perfected in many different
ways across the city. Barbecuing ribs is an art in Memphis, with many
masters finding delicious subtlety in some fundamental variations: dry
or dripping wet, spicy or sweet, spare or baby back ribs.

We here at the Memphis Flyer have taken upon ourselves the
enormous burden of seeking out the best of the best of the best in
Mid-South barbecue rib-ery. It’s a noble quest for fire and pig, we’ll
admit, and one not taken without some measure of sober reflection. With
a passive mien, we assumed the mantle of responsibility and trudged
toward our fates, each step heavier than the … oh, who are we
kidding, it was the most fun thing ever! The Flyer staff was
full of smiles — saucy, meaty-toothed smiles — for three
days, as we performed our self-elected duty.

Justin Fox Burks

Ten years ago, the Flyer conducted a similar contest,
sampling ribs from all over to find a winner. The story, published May
20, 1999, with a cover featuring Flyer writer Chris Davis’ belly
emblazoned with a saucy “Q,” found a tie at the top, with the best ribs
coming from Willingham’s and Corky’s, followed by Cozy Corner and
Pig-n-Whistle (honorable mentions: Gridley’s, the BBQ Shop, and
Rendezvous).

Volunteering for judging duty this time around were Greg Akers, Tess
Bailey, Mary Cashiola, Chris Davis, Chris Herrington, and Bruce
VanWyngarden. We cast our nets around the ribs from 14 must-sample
local establishments. We halved the list and held two qualifying
rounds, with a half-dozen finalists competing on a third day. Scoring
from the initial round did not carry over. The plate, as it were, was
wiped clean.

Unfortunately, one of the winners from a decade ago, Willingham’s,
is no longer with us. Thankfully, the ‘cue master from that
establishment, John Willingham himself, is, and he graciously agreed to
talk fire and pig with the judges and administer the rites of his Order
of the Apron. A multi-time winner at the Memphis in May World
Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, Willingham is a nationally known
expert in the field.

Justin Fox Burks

John Willingham

Willingham preached the gospel of the rib, which has five basic
tenets: appearance, aroma, taste, chewability, and memory. On barbecue
sauce, Willingham said, “Generally speaking, people cover up that which
you love to see — it’s like a woman wears a dress.” And the
congregation (well, some of us), replied, “Amen.” Of barbecue judging,
Willingham said, “We wanted to make it formal but with an element of
freedom. I believe in the freedom of barbecue.”

With freedom in mind, the contest was fashioned after good ole
American democracy. Restaurants were not told that the orders of ribs
would be used for a contest: We judged the ‘cue that anyone can get on
any given day. Ribs were then assigned numbers, so the judges didn’t
know where they came from.

Armed with score sheets based on those used in the Memphis in May
contest (which broke down judging into four categories: Appearance of
Entry, Tenderness of Entry, Flavor of Entry, and Overall Impression),
our motley ‘cue crew got to work. Rib by rib, we employed all of our
senses to determine who has the best ribs in Memphis. Each judge had
his or her preferences, of course, but cumulatively we came up with a
final ranking. Who won? Read on, reader.

The Top Three:

Justin Fox Burks

#1 The BBQ Shop

1. The BBQ Shop: On the first day of testing, the BBQ Shop’s
rack of ribs scored well but only topped one of our six judges’
ballots. “Pulls off bone nicely, but a little dry,” one judge wrote.
“It has a different taste from any other rib. Unique, but I’m not going
to daydream about it. The meat is almost too subtle, but it’s there and
pretty good,” another decided.

In the final round, however, the BBQ Shop left our judges plenty to
daydream about, finishing in the Top 2 on five of six ballots and
excelling in every category. Appearance: “Big bones with meat on top of
the rib.” “An appealing color — warm blend of red and gold.”
Texture: “The texture couldn’t be more perfect. Stays on the bone but
comes off the second the tooth hits it — and moist!” “Terrific
chewability.” Taste: “Sweet, excellent sauce, with the flavor of the
meat emerging as you chew.” “Good blend of spices and good meat
flavor.” And overall: “Two-faced — wet on one side, dry on the
other. These are Hannah Montana ribs — the best of both worlds.”
One judged summed up the collective reaction: “I am very happy about
this rib.”

2. Leonard’s: The bold, heavy rub on Leonard’s ribs split our
judges on the first tasting. “The rub is too thick and salty. It
overwhelms the meat but has a nice hint of heat,” one judge wrote.
Another agreed: “Too much spice — it overpowers the flavor of
everything else.” Others were knocked out by the intensity: “Pops with
taste,” one judge gushed. “The dry rub is magnificently strong.
Fantastic. Wanted to eat all of it off the bone.” Another wrote,
“Wonderful, wonderful spice. Coriander? Mustard? Complex, smoky
flavors, but the flavor of the meat a little covered up.”

In the finals, Leonard’s seemed to find the right balance of spice
and meat: “Spicy, but doesn’t overwhelm the smoke, which doesn’t
overwhelm the meat,” one judge proclaimed. “Piquant, tangy with a nice
blend of sweet and smoky and an appealing aftertaste,” wrote another
judge. “Very spicy and tasty,” another agreed. “Just the right mix of
spice, heat, and saltiness, and not too sweet. Yummy.” Still, this is
one rib that is not for those who can’t take intense flavors: “I worked
this bone as long as I could, but you’ll need a beverage with it.”

3. The Pig on Beale: Neither as universally known as the
likes of Rendezvous or Corky’s, nor boasting the hipster/connoisseur
cred of Cozy Corner or Payne’s, The Pig on Beale is a relatively recent
entrant to the Memphis’ ‘cue scene, and it’s tucked away on Memphis’
most famous street, where music and nightlife tend to overshadow
food.

But our judges were impressed by the consistent, smoky, “pink to the
bone” flavor of the Pig’s ribs: “Too sweet and very little spice, but
the smoke is brilliant. The meat’s flavor swells in the mouth,” one
judge wrote. “Tender, smoky,” another said. “Tender and easy to bite
off the bone — a nice lean texture. It’s sweet on top and
smoky underneath. Good flavor,” one judge decided. The sweetness of the
Pig’s offerings was the only aspect that split our judges, though
everyone appreciated the beauty of the “dark, red, caramelized
exterior.” “It’s a dessert rib,” one judge wrote, capturing what seemed
to be a consensus of opinion.

Justin Fox Burks

Left to right: Bruce VanWyngarden, Chris Davis, Greg Akers, Chris

Runners-Up

Rendezvous: The spicy rub on this Memphis staple was a big
hit with our judges. “Looks good like a dry rib should, with whole
mustard seeds and crumbled spice that’s still green (!) amid the red
and black,” one judge marveled. “Very pretty with lots of spice on top
of what looks like a generous portion of meat,” another judge wrote.
But while our judges loved the spice, they were merely satisfied with
the rest of the package. “Brilliant spice mix on nicely grilled meat,
though it has very little smoke or other noteworthy characteristics,”
one judge decided. Another summed up the overall impression: “This
tastes like backyard-cookout ribs but in a good way.”

Pig-n-Whistle: The dark-glazed ribs from this suburban staple
drew a mixed reaction. “The sweet sauce overpowers the meat,” one judge
complained. Another cracked: “I don’t like having to forage my meat off
the plate from a puddle of sauce. But maybe that’s just me.” If one
judge thought Pig-n-Whistle’s sauce was a “cover-up,” another disagreed
by inverting Willingham’s aphorism: “The sauce, in this case, is like a
well-cut dress on a woman — it enhances.” And there was plenty of
agreement on this issue. “Good sauce flavor — rich, hearty, not
too sweet, and you can still taste the meat,” one judge wrote.

Interstate: On its first tasting, three different judges
praised Interstate’s tangy sauce as a nice complement to meat whose
“the texture is perfect — it pulls off the bone easily, but
doesn’t fall off. Moist, but not mushy.” “This rib has good flavor that
improves — swells — after you swallow,” another wrote.
A second tasting, however, drew criticism for the
“tomato-paste-looking” sauce that drew “dress-on-a-woman” complaints.
So Interstate suffered from inconsistency. Even on the second day,
however, two judges praised the “subtle heat” of Interstate’s ribs.

Honorable Mentions

(These contenders just missed making the finals in a close
vote):

Central BBQ: Several judges were taken aback by the dark
appearance of Central’s rack: “Looks burned, the appearance almost
makes you not want to eat it,” one judge wrote, echoing others’
sentiments. Some judges had a different reaction to the “as dark as my
coffee” appearance: “a dark rub with evidence of smoke on the bone. Not
pretty like a wet rib, but you can tell the meat’s going to be good
underneath.” Once judges sank their teeth into Central’s ribs, there
was a similarly split opinion. “Inconsistent, the taste is almost
oily,” one judge complained. Another thought their ribs had a “dry,
agey” taste. But others were impressed: “Good smoky flavor to the meat,
solid mix of spice up top,” one judge praised. “Meat is smoky and
juicy. The spice rub is subtle but gains over time, with a spicy kick
at the end,” another wrote. A third said the meat “pulls off the bone
just right, with a pleasant texture.”

Germantown Commissary: The chewy texture of Germantown
Commissary’s ribs was a consistent subject of either minor or major
complaints: “Tough and chewy, really chewy. This did not do it for me,”
one judge wrote. “The meat needs to be more tender,” another wrote.
“Sticks to the bone a little too much but has a nice texture to the
taste,” another judge wrote. Commissary scored well in other areas,
though: “Nice hint of smokiness and good balance of sweetness,” one
judge wrote of the flavor. “A solid rib, though not as spicy as it
could be. Lingers and improves. A subtle ‘cue that sneaks up on you,”
one judge praised. Another summed up the Commissary’s entry this way:
“Great overall performance in terms of taste and appearance but not as
tender as it could be. But I’ll remember this one.”

Cozy Corner: The first ribs tasted, our judges hadn’t quite
found their groove in terms of juggling messy finger food and
comment-writing, but two judges complained that Cozy Corner’s ribs had
too much fat, while another questioned the “petroleum aftertaste.” But
another described these thick ribs as “beautiful” and praised the
“great spice mix.”

We judged the following 14 restaurants. Click on a restaurant name to leave your own comments and reviews!

(*Denotes location where we picked up the ribs for this
contest)

A&R (1802 Elvis Presley Blvd., 7174 Stage Rd., 3721 Hickory
Hill Rd., *22 N. 3rd St.)

Blues City Café (138 Beale St.)

The BBQ Shop (1782 Madison Ave.)

Central BBQ (*2249 Central Ave., 4375 Summer Ave.)

Corky’s (*5259 Poplar Ave., 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy., 743 W.
Poplar Ave.)

Cozy Corner (745 N. Parkway)

Germantown Commissary (2290 S. Germantown Rd.)

Interstate (*2265 S. 3rd St., 150 W. Stateline Rd.)

Leonard’s (*103 N. Main St., 5465 Fox Plaza Dr.)

Neely’s (5700 Mount Moriah Rd., *670 Jefferson Ave.)

Payne’s (1762 Lamar Ave.)

The Pig on Beale (167 Beale St.)

Pig-n-Whistle (*2740 Bartlett Rd., 4265 Hacks Cross Rd., 6084
Kerr-Rosemark Rd.)

Rendezvous (52 S. 2nd St.)