Tag: restaurant

Good Old Time

Post author By Bo List
Post date October 11, 2007

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Behind the counter of an old-timey general store just 20 minutes from downtown Memphis is a magic grill. It’s magic because, along with a small deep fryer, it generates $200,000 a year in revenue, according to the store’s owners. Legend has it (and legends float about this place like two-day-old Mylar balloons) that it’s been cooking steaks and burgers since World War II. “Sixty years of flavor,” the owner says to describe the grill’s magical powers. Or maybe not quite 60. There’s no telling.

I had come to the Shelby Forest General Store on Steak Night and left stuffed with steak, chocolate silk pie, and a dozen or so country-fried stories.

The Shelby Forest General Store is either Memphis’ best- or its worst-kept secret. There’s no Web site and no advertising, aside from a few billboards in the Millington area, and yet everyone seems to know about it.

In the mere five years that Doug Ammons and wife Kristin have owned the store, business has doubled, with 40 percent of the revenue straight off the grill. The rest comes from the myriad goods and services one can find in the crannies of the country cabin shop that Doug calls “Walton’s Mountain with a lot of Mayberry rolled in.” There’s bait (worms, minnows, crickets), soft drinks, a deli, hunting and fishing licenses, and even used books and movies for sale (with titles ranging from Dan Quayle’s memoir Standing Firm to the film The Making of “Left Behind”).

Doug is quick to note that his store is meant to embody and celebrate the past while offering modern amenities. There’s a mock-historical marker in front of the store describing the 2003 renovation: “gentle restoration (NOT modernization) … a dignified genuine piece of Americana from a day long gone by.” The décor is decidedly rustic, featuring the store’s original hardwood flooring, various wood panelings and pegboard, and an eclectic mix of pop and kitsch. There’s even a rooster named Jeter Jiffy on the porch to greet guests. It feels like a hoedown could break out at any moment. And every Friday night from 6 to 9 p.m., one does.

Tony Butler is the house banjoist, and there’s no telling who else is on tap on a given night. The evening I stopped by, Butler was joined by a guitarist and later by a fiddler, and the repertoire alternated between hymns and mountain ditties.

I sat at the counter next to a reserved-looking middle-aged gentleman. He introduced himself as a worker at the Wonder Bread company (his specialty: buns), and in between bites of his steak dinner, he played “air banjo” along with the trio and tapped his feet mightily, unwittingly adding percussion to the mix.

“Do you play yourself?” I asked. “Oh no,” he replied, bashfully. “I just love it.”

Looking about, the sentiment seemed unanimous. Couples with young children smiled, while a pair of older ladies sang along quietly at the counter: “I’ll fly away, oh Lord — I’ll fly away!”

Dinner, a modest $9.95 with Texas toast and coleslaw, is tasty. The steak is a 10-ounce rib-eye, with a mildly sweet marinade whose secret ingredient only Kristin knows. And each and every steak the store has served in the last five years (7,000 and counting) has been cooked by Little Bit, the 18-year-old feisty redhead behind the counter. “You don’t want to piss her off,” Doug warns of the smiling cook.

Dinner is a family affair, with Kristin behind the counter preparing plates and young daughters Katelyn and Ellery serving cheerfully.

Leaving the Shelby Forest General Store, I’m reminded of the old Teddy Bears song, “To Know Him Is To Love Him,” but in reverse. To love the Shelby County General Store is to know it.

I left humming familiar tunes, got to know the Ammons family a good deal on my brief visit, and had the warm-and-fuzzy feeling that comes with a home-cooked meal.
The Shelby Forest General Store, 7729 Benjestown,
Millington (876-5770)

Tags Family, Food, general store, restaurant, Shelby Forest, Shelby Forest General Store

Best of Memphis Special Sections

Food & Drink

Post author By John Branston
Post date October 4, 2007

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

In the “Food & Drink” section, one of our voters marked through several categories with notes that read “very seldom eat out” or “wouldn’t eat.” She also let us know that she’s “too young for coffee; too old for tea.” And while we’re not even sure what that last bit means, we do know that she’s missing out. Most voters, however, had no problem sharing their preferences. The results come next. Dig in.

Best Burger

1. Huey’s

2. Back Yard Burgers — tie —

Big Foot Lodge

3. Belmont Grill

At this point, words fail. There is nothing left to say about the Huey burger. It is divine perfection on a bun. It heals the sick and helps the blind to see. It may even be a safe and affordable alternative to fossil fuel. Give up, puny fry cooks. No other burger will ever win this category.

Best Chef

1. Jose Gutierrez, Encore

2. Erling Jensen, Erling Jensen, the Restaurant

3. Ben Vaughn, River Oaks

Jose Gutierrez is a true Southerner — a Southerner if you happen to have been born in the South of France. But he’s practically an American Southerner too if you count the 22-plus years Gutierrez headed Chez Philippe inside The Peabody. In 2005, he opened Encore, a contemporary French-style bistro at 150 Peabody Place, but given the quiet sophistication of the dining room and bar (not to mention its wonderful food), it might as well be worlds away from the action outside on Second Street near Beale. Yes, Gutierrez’s a charmer, but this former student of Paul Bocuse is an award-winning chef in his own right. From Flyer readers, here’s to you, M. Gutierrez: Salut!

Best Lunch

1. Huey’s

2. Lenny’s Sub Shop

3. Big Foot Lodge — tie —

Soul Fish

Not to be content with “Best Burger” for years running in the Flyer‘s Best of Memphis poll, Huey’s this year goes and grabs “Best Lunch.” You’ve got seven area locations to choose from. But starting now, you’ve got Huey’s new “Heart Healthy” menu to do yourself a favor. Or you can stick to what Huey’s does best — and is doing one better: The “Grand Daddy” burger. That’s two patties, topped with an onion ring and cheese. It’s not, as advertised, for the faint of heart. But there are times (lunchtime?) when it’s just plain good to go with your gut.

Justin Fox Burks

Best Breakfast

1. Brother Juniper’s

2. Blue Plate Café — tie —

Cracker Barrel

3. Barksdale Restaurant

Who was Brother Juniper? He cooked for St. Francis of Assisi. And his place on Walker near the U of M is cooking every morning of the week. What’s cooking, of course, is breakfast. What’s happening is a crowd ready to sit down, in simple surroundings, to a traditional menu of eggs and grits and granola, described by one contributor to tripadvisor.com as “awesome.” According to another: “It’s good when something so hyped delivers.” Rachael Ray agrees. Flyer readers agree. Blessed be Brother Juniper’s omelets.

Best Romantic Restaurant

1. Paulette’s

2. Chez Philippe

3. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

If you can’t take your date to the airport to hop a flight to France for dinner at some quaint family restaurant on the outskirts of Paris, Paulette’s in Overton Square is the next best thing. Besides, everyone is more beautiful after you’ve eaten one or two of their incredible popovers.

Best Sunday Brunch

1. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

2. Boscos Squared

3. Peabody Skyway

Hot jazz and hotter food. That’s what brunch at Owen Brennan’s is all about. Few names are more synonymous with Crescent City cuisine and the savory fusion of breakfast and lunch than the Brennans of New Orleans.

Best Wine List

1. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

2. McEwen’s on Monroe

3. Texas de Brazil — tie —

Ronnie Grisanti & Sons

Caution: Choosing a wine at Le Chardonnay may result in eyestrain. But there’s no better way to go blind than relaxing in the shadowy candlelight on a leather sofa, gnoshing on a perfect gourmet pizza, and sipping a robust Australian Zinfandel.

Best Steak

1. Folk’s Folly Prime Steak House

2. Ruth’s Chris Steak House

3. The Butcher Shop

The lollipop veal chop with Maker’s Mark peppercorn sauce is divine, and the filet mignon with applewood-smoked bacon and sautéed mushrooms is a thing of beauty. The locally owned steak house also has more than 400 choices in the cellar, as well as the full attention of the editors at Wine Spectator magazine, who’ve given Folk’s Folly an award of excellence eight years in a row.

Best Barbecue

1. Central BBQ

2. Corky’s

3. The Bar-B-Q Shop

Perfectly seasoned and slow-smoked with hickory, Central BBQ’s pork sandwich tastes like Memphis. And yes, that’s a good thing. In a city where barbecue has been known to start fights, Central’s barbecue is something on which everyone seems to agree.

Justin Fox Burks

1st Place: Best Breakfast

Best Ribs

1. Charles Vergos’ Rendezvous

2. Corky’s

3. Central BBQ

The Rendezvous’ dry pork ribs are rubbed with a savory mix of herbs and spices and chargrilled to something just a little bit beyond perfection. There’s a reason they are nearly as famous as Elvis.

Best Hot Wings

1. Buffalo Wild Wings

2. D’Bo’s Buffalo Wings-N-Things

3. Hooters

The folks at Buffalo Wild Things have built a better mantrap by combining the best elements of a neighborhood pub, sports bar, and wingery. Add to that a choice between traditional or boneless wings and 15 different sauces, ranging from Parmesan garlic to mango habenero.

Best Fried Chicken

BOM 1. Gus’s Fried Chicken

2. Popeye’s Chicken & Biscuits — tie —

Kentucky Fried Chicken

3. Jack Pirtle Fried Chicken

Gus’s Fried Chicken deserves its reputation for taking a tried-and-true classic like fried chicken and making it better than anybody could have ever imagined. It’s a crispy treat that makes mouths water and burn at the same time. It might be better than barbecue.

Justin Fox Burks

1s Place: Best Ribs

Best Cajun/Creole

1. Bayou Bar & Grill

2. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

3. Crescent City

Standing at the crossroads of two mighty cultures, Bayou Bar & Grill is Midtown at its most Garden District. On a beautiful day, a patio table is prime real estate. Start out with a cold beer and a bowl of duck-and-sausage gumbo. Finish with some beignets and a café olé.

Best Mediterranean

READERS’ CHOICE

Petra

Petra Café

Casablanca

Dish

Bari

A new category this year, it appears that there are so many great Mediterranean restaurants in town that it was too hard for our readers to decide which was the best.

Best Dessert

1. Paulette’s

2. Big Foot Lodge

3. Perkins Restaurant & Bakery

Were we to guess, we’d say that Paulette’s took this honor for either their K-Pie — Kahlua Mocha Parfait Pie — or the Hot Chocolate Crepe with almonds and vanilla ice cream. But maybe it’s neither. Paulette’s is also known for its impeccable service and romantic ambiance.

Best Italian

1. Ronnie Grisanti & Sons

2. Pete and Sam’s Restaurant

3. Bari

When you’ve been around as long as Ronnie Grisanti & Sons, you know how to do things right. Founded in 1978, the family-run restaurant serves Tuscan cuisine, such as handmade ravioli, Elfo’s recipe for pasta sautéed with butter, mushrooms, and shrimp, and fettucine tossed with their Grisanti Tuscan Alfredo sauce. It’s worth the carbs, believe us.

Best Mexican

1. El Porton Mexican Restaurant

2. Molly Gonzales’ La Casita Mexican Restaurant

3. Taqueria La Guadalupana — tie —

Los Compadres

El Porton has blanketed the Memphis market with seven locations serving quick, tasty, agreeably priced variations of Mexican staples to the starving business-lunch and happy-hour masses.

Best Chinese

1. P.F. Chang’s China Bistro

2. A-Tan

3. Wang’s Mandarin House

P.F. Chang’s dark, sophisticated atmosphere is dominated by welcoming warmth, the sounds of the kitchen, and the smell of dumplings and stir-fry. Nationally, the Arizona-based company took Chinese food upscale. People swear by the lettuce wraps, but we suggest the oolong-marinated sea bass.

Justin Fox Burks

1st Place: Best Cajun/Creole

Best Thai

1. Bhan Thai

2. Bangkok Alley

3. Sawaddii

Nestled within the leafy confines of Peabody Avenue, Bhan Thai has a relaxed attitude and a wonderful menu. It’s a great place to have a casual dinner with friends. Diners can enjoy Thai curries, garlic pork chops, or the Bhan Thai crispy duck in the restaurant’s red, black, and gold interior or on its spacious deck. Bhan Thai also indulges in those little touches that make customers feel welcome: The lunch menu comes with a complimentary soup; the bill — though it’s generally not hard to swallow — comes with a sweet chocolate mint.

Best Vietnamese

1. Saigon Le

2. Pho Saigon

3. Pho Hoa Binh

Curried tofu with onion and lemon grass; hot-and-sour catfish soup; giant bowls of savory noodles with Vietnamese barbecue; a monstrous pancake stuffed with savory pork on a bed of herbs drenched in fish sauce. This is the no-frills Asian eatery of your dreams.

Best Japanese/Sushi

1. Sekisui

2. Dō

3. Bluefin — tie — Sekisui Pacific Rim

What does it mean when three out of the four restaurants voted the best in this category were founded by Jimmy Ishii? Earlier this year, the Flyer dubbed him the “Sultan of Sushi,” and, judging by our readers, it’s a fitting title. The original Sekisui brought sushi to Memphis, and in an industry known for being fickle, it seems Memphians are still clambering for more.

Best Indian

1. India Palace

2. Golden Indian

3. Bombay House

This colorful Midtown standard-bearer is aces at the can’t-go-wrong Indian lunch buffet, but you’re even better off ordering from the menu for some cross-cultural comfort food: tender tandoori, buttery tikka masala, or creamy saag.

Justin Fox Burks

1st Place: Best Thai

Best Home Cooking/Soul Food

1. The Cupboard

2. Gus’s Fried Chicken

3. Soul Fish

Let’s get it straight: A crisp, tart fried green tomato or a steaming little mound of fresh field peas or a crispy, buttery, bite-sized blast of cornbread isn’t just good eating. These things are minor spiritual experiences. It’s part of what defines and renews us. And, now firmly ensconced in its sprawling Union Avenue location, longtime local staple the Cupboard has claimed its place as the city’s preeminent meat-and-three palace.

Best Vegetarian

1. Square Foods

2. Wild Oats Market

3. Jasmine

Everything from Square Food’s oatburger to the veggie BLT proves that meatless doesn’t mean flavorless. Don’t forget about the PB&H made with organic peanut butter, banana, and honey washed down with the unavoidable question: How many years of Elvis’ life could Square Foods have saved?

Best Healthy Menu

1. Square Foods

2. Wild Oats Market

3. Paradise Café

Got a need for wheat grass? How about a hunger for the latest in tofu posing as meat? If you’re trying to eat right without cutting out meat, Square Foods offers a delicious dill poached salmon salad, as well as an organic chicken-breast sandwich and melts of turkey or tuna.

Best Seafood

1. Tsunami

2. Blue Fish Restaurant and Oyster Bar

3. Bonefish Grill

Tsunami’s menu is nothing short of stupendous. The tuna over cucumber salad with wasabi dressing epitomizes a “cool” dish. The mussels appetizer is pretty strong as well.

Justin Fox Burks

1st Place: Best Home Cooking/Soul Food

Best Pizza

1. Memphis Pizza Café

2. Garibaldi’s Pizza

3. Exline’s

The perennial choice in this category, the Memphis Pizza Café serves sandwiches and calzones, too, but earned its Best of Memphis award for its pizza. The Midtown location is a great place to grab a beer and a slice and watch a game in a festive setting.

Best Deli

1. Fino’s from the Hill

2. Bogie’s Delicatessen

3. Lenny’s Sub Shop

Who needs to take a trip to Italy when you can get Fino’s cannoli right here in Midtown. What they don’t have in the old country are Fino’s outstanding subs. There’s no finer way to chase the chills away in winter than a cup of Fino’s minestrone. The Italian groceries also give you plenty to look at while waiting for your take-out.

Best Service

1. Texas de Brazil

2. Chick-Fil-A — tie —

Houston’s Restaurant

3. Big Foot Lodge — tie —

Ruth’s Chris Steak House

Meat swords. Swords of meat, if you prefer. Anyhow, that image should neatly summarize the gracious abundance that greets the patron of Texas de Brazil. The servers bring what you want when you want it as long as your stomach can hold out.

Best Restaurant
Décor

READERS’ CHOICE

Big Foot Lodge

Spindini

Beauty Shop

Blue Fin

Huey’s

River Oaks

Too close to call in this category, but the top vote-getters show that Memphians have eclectic tastes — from the funky fun of Big Foot Lodge and Huey’s and the elegance of River Oaks and Spindini to the ever-so-hipness of Beauty Shop and Blue Fin. What ties these restaurants all together is that imagination elevates them to the fore of this highly competitive category.

Best Kid-friendly Restaurant

1. Chuck E. Cheese

2. Chick-Fil-A

3. Huey’s

You’re never too old for a game of wack-a-mole and a cuddle-up to a person in a mouse costume. Bring a roll of quarters and skee-ball your way to glory. There’s also pizza, and they may host the occasional child’s birthday party if asked politely.

Best Caterer

1. Another Roadside Attraction

2. Just Catering

3. Draper’s Catering

You must be doing something properly if your employees honor you with bumper stickers proclaiming, “My Boss is a Jewish Caterer.” Karen Blockman Carrier — owner of Automatic Slim’s, the Mollie Fontaine Lounge, Dō, and the Beauty Shop — founded Another Roadside Attraction in 1987 and has employed virtually every up-and-coming Memphis rock-and-roller since and catered many a big social event too.

Best Patio

1. Celtic Crossing

2. Boscos Squared

3. Café Ole

Is it the breeze, or the Guinness, or the classic Irish dishes, or the acoustic entertainment? Okay, it’s probably all of the above. The people-watching doesn’t hurt, either. Plus, the folks at Celtic Crossing have thought of everything to make their patio inviting: Umbrellas for if it rains. Fans for the heat. Beer for everything else.

Best Delivery

1. Camy’s

2. Garibaldi’s Pizza

3. Young Avenue Deli

Why is food delivery dominated by the pizza industry? You can tote a box of steaming lasagna or an eight-ounce grilled rib-eye with the same ease. Thankfully, Camy’s knows this little secret. For 13 years, this Midtown institution has been delivering tasty meals to the lazy, the busy, the car-less, and the too drunk to drive.

Best Bakery

1. La Baguette

2. Atlanta Bread Company

3. Fresh Market

Sandwiches are so underrated. Disregarded as a quick lunch option, they’re rarely taken seriously as a gourmet entrée. But thanks to the freshest, tastiest baked bread at La Baguette, sandwiches are elevated to a place of dignity. Forget that garlic-studded venison with a balsamic mango-berry reduction. Give us the Vegetable Garden Sandwich on freshly baked croissant. Pick up a baguette to take home, and, of course, you can’t leave without having one of the bakery’s tasty pastries.

Best Coffeehouse

1. Starbucks

2. Otherlands

3. High Point Coffee

Offering convenient drive-thru service, Starbucks can have your double venti toffee nut soy latte safely tucked into your car’s cup holder in minutes. In the past couple of years, the mega-coffeehouse has even gone green — purchasing fair-trade coffee, setting a target of 30 percent post-consumer content for paper purchases, and offering discounts to folks who use their own mugs.

Justin Fox Burks

1st Place: Best Pizza

Best Restaurant

READERS’ CHOICE

River Oaks

Big Foot Lodge

Tsunami

Houston’s Restaurant

Texas de Brazil

The word’s been out for quite some time — too much red meat can be bad for your health. But that doesn’t stop Memphians from shoveling it down. Whether it’s the Sasquatch Burger at Big Foot Lodge, the steak on a sword at Texas de Brazil, the juicy rib-eye at Houston’s, or the beef tenderloin at River Oaks, the Bluff City just couldn’t decide on its favorite meat-hearty meal. Of course, there were a significant number of votes for fresh fish served at Tsunami.

Best New
Restaurant,
opened in 2007

1. Spindini

2. Pearl’s Oyster House

3. Circa — tie —

Flying Fish

With such a rich culinary legacy, it’s no surprise that the latest Grisanti venture pleases Memphians’ palates. While Spindini features plenty of traditional family recipes, the menu shines with Judd Grisanti’s modern twist on Italian favorites, like wood-fired pizzas and lobster ravioli. Patrons can even watch their food being prepared in the state-of-the-art wood-fired oven at the end of the bar.

Tags Best of Memphis, drink, Food, restaurant, Review

Food & Wine Food & Drink

A to Z

Post author By John Branston
Post date August 23, 2007

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Hungry? Sure, you could stay in and make something, but why should you when Memphis and its surrounding areas are filled with great restaurants serving up just the thing to sate your appetite?

This dining guide — organized by neighborhood, from A to Z — should point you in the right direction, whether you’re hankering for hibachi in Hickory Hill, craving pizza in Cooper-Young, or dying for something sweet downtown. Making a decision at this fork in the road has never been easier.

BARTLETT

ABUELO’S MEXICAN FOOD EMBASSY—Serves quesadillas, carne asada, and chili rellenos, along with beef tenderloin, jumbo shrimp, and several seafood entrées. 8274 U.S. 64. 672-0769. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

GRIDLEY’S—Offers barbecued ribs, pork plate, chicken, and smoked turkey; also lunch specials. Closed Tuesday. 6842 Stage Rd. 377-8055. L, D, #, $-$$, MRA

LA PLAYITA MEXICANA—Specializes in seafood, including red snapper and oysters; also offers steaks and a variety of Hispanic entrées. 6194 Macon. 377-0181. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

SAITO STEAKHOUSE—Japanese cuisine cooked at your table; sushi bar has 100 offerings. Closed for lunch Saturday. 6600 Stage, Ste. 101. 373-1957. L, D, FB, #, $$

SIDE PORCH STEAK HOUSE—In addition to steak, the menu includes chicken, pork chops, and fish entrées; homemade rolls are a specialty. Closed Sunday and Monday. 5689 Stage. 377-2484. D, FB, #, $-$$

WILLIE MOFFATT’S—Large menu includes everything from bacon-wrapped filet mignon and a rum-marinated chargrilled chicken sandwich to shrimp baskets and a Tequila lime salad. 2779 Old Whitten. 386-2710. L, D, FB, $

CHICKASAW GARDENS/UNIVERSITY OF MEMPHIS

NEW TO CHICKASAW GARDENS/UNIVERSITY OF MEMPHIS

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EL PUERTO — Six months after the opening of El Puerto, customers’ reactions are positive. “They love the food. They love the way our waiters treat them and serve them with a smile,” says manager Alex Rojas. “Our customers say, ‘Oh, we’re going to tell our friends about this place and the food here.'” The Mexican restaurant offers lots of choices. “Our fajitas are the most popular item,” Rojas says. “We also have steak, shrimp, and fish tacos. We have a big menu to choose from, and we have great margaritas.” An additional bonus: live Spanish music from 8 to 11:30 p.m. on Saturdays.
775 S. Highland. 452-8019. L, D, $

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A-TAN—Mandarin entrées are a chicken-pork-beef-shrimp combo and a seafood-vegetable stir-fry; also features a sushi bar. 3445 Poplar, Ste. 17, University Center. 452-4477. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

ANNE’S BAKERY & CAFE—Serves sandwiches, soups, salads, pastries, and desserts. Memphis Pink Palace Museum, 3050 Central. 320-6407. B, L, #, $, MRA

BROTHER JUNIPER’S—Offers salads, soups, sandwiches, and homemade breads, pastries, and desserts; also, breakfast on weekends. Closed Monday. 3519 Walker. 324-0144, B, L, #, $, MRA

CRUMPETS—British pub fare includes vegetable tarts, Cornish pasties, rosemary chicken salad, burgers, and Chef’s Sampler. Tea served 2-3:30 p.m. Closed Sunday-Monday. 262 S. Highland. 324-2221. L, Wi, #, $

EL CHICO—This mainstay in University Center dishes out fajitas, chimichangas, fried ice cream, and other Tex-Mex fare. Enchilada specials on Wednesdays. 3491 Poplar. 323-9609. L, D, FB, #, $

ELFO’S—Changing luncheon menu features such specialties as pink-peppercorn salmon with orange sauce and eggplant Napoleon, along with soups, sandwiches, salads, and homemade desserts. Closed Sunday. 3092 Poplar. 888-0402. L, FB, #, $, MRA

LA BAGUETTE—Offering soups, quiche, sandwiches (including paninis), and pastries in a French-style setting. 3088 Poplar. 458-0900. B (bakery), L, #, $, MRA

MEDALLION— Offers steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta entrées; buffets at both lunch and dinner. 3700 Central, Holiday Inn (Kemmons Wilson School of Hospitality). 678-8200. B, L, D (except Sunday), FB, #, $-$$, MRA

PETE & SAM’S—Serving Memphis for more than 50 years; offers steaks, seafood, and traditional Italian dishes. 3886 Park. 458-0694. D, Br, # (except bathrooms), $-$$

RONNIE GRISANTI AND SONS—Specializes in handmade Tuscan cuisine; menu items include ravioli and baked manicotti, along with seafood and steaks. Closed Sunday. 2855 Poplar. 323-0007. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

WOMAN’S EXCHANGE TEA ROOM—Chicken-salad plate, beef tenderloin, soups-and-sandwiches, and vegetable plates are specialties; adjacent shop features handmade items. Closed Saturday and Sunday. 88 Racine. 327-5681. L, #, $

CITYWIDE

ASIAN PALACE—Chinese fare is the specialty, including shrimp with walnuts and oysters, Peking-style pork and duck; also crab, lobster, and vegetarian items. 2920 Covington Pike. 388-3883; 4978 Park Ave. (mainly takeout). 761-7888. L, D, Br, Wi, $

BANGKOK ALLEY—Thai cuisine includes noodle and curry dishes, as well as duck, catfish, and seafood entrées. Closed for lunch Saturday and all day Sunday, Cordova location. 830 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 753-7250. 2150 W. Poplar at Houston Levee (Collierville). 854-8748. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$, MRA

BLUE COAST BURRITO—Build-your-own burritos with an array of steak, fish, chicken, and fresh veggies. Menu also includes fish tacos and made-to-order salads. 3546 Walker. 323-3730; The Avenue at Carriage Crossing (Collierville). 850-TACO. L, D, $

BOL A PASTA—Serves shrimp scampi, baked pastas, steaks, and fresh seafood. 2200 N. Germantown Parkway. 384-7988; 3160 Village Shops Dr. 757-5609. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

BONEFISH GRILL—Two specialties are pistachio-parmesan-crusted rainbow trout and tenderloin portobello piccata; steak and pork also served. 1250 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 753-2220; The Avenue at Carriage Crossing (Collierville). 854-5822. L (Saturday-Sunday, Collierville), D, FB, #, $-$$

BUCKLEY’S FINE FILET GRILL—Specializes in steaks such as eight-ounce center-cut filets but also offers grilled chicken, seafood, and pasta. 5355 Poplar. 683-4538; 714 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 756-1639. Buckley’s Lunch Box, 919 S. Yates (lunch Monday-Friday and takeout only). 682-0570. L (Yates only), D (not Yates), FB (beer and wine only at Yates), #, $-$$, MRA

THE BUTCHER SHOP—Serves steaks ranging from 8-oz. filets to a 30-oz. porterhouse; also chicken, pork chops, fresh seafood. 101 S. Front. 521-0856; 107 S. Germantown Rd. 757-4244. L (Friday only, S. Germantown Rd.), D, FB, #, $-$$$, MRA

CARRABBA’S ITALIAN GRILL—Serves chicken marsala, calamari, various pastas, and other “old-world” Italian entrées. 5110 Poplar. 685-9900; The Avenue at Carriage Crossing. 854-0200. L (Saturday-Sunday, Collierville; Sunday, Poplar), D, FB, #, $-$$

CENTRAL B B Q—Dishing up ribs, sandwiches, hot wings, and more; also family packages. 2249 Central. 276-7573; 4375 Summer. 7676-4672. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$, MRA

CHINA INN—Serves Chinese, American, and down-home-style cuisine; daily buffet featured. 4430 Elvis Presley Blvd. 396-0287; 2829 Covington Pike. 383-8211. L, D, Br, #, $

COLETTA’S—Longtime eatery serves lasagna, ravioli, and pizza with barbecue or traditional topping. Closed for lunch Sunday, South Parkway location. 2850 Appling Rd. 383-1122; 1063 S. Parkway E. 948-7652. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

CORKY’S—Popular barbecue emporium offers both wet and dry ribs, plus a full menu of other barbecue entrées. 5259 Poplar. 685-9744; 1740 Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 737-1911; 743 W. Poplar (Collierville). 405-4999. L, D, Br,#, $-$$, MRA

CREPE MAKER—Specializes in hand-held crepes, including Philly steak, pesto, chicken, and vegetarian; also desserts. 175 Peabody Place. 522-1290; The Avenue at Carriage Crossing, Collierville. 861-1981. Closed for dinner Sunday, Collierville. B, L, D, Br, Wi (coolers), #, $

CRESCENT CITY—Entrées include red beans and rice, muffalettas, po’ boys, crawfish, and catfish; also beignets. The Avenue at Carriage Crossing (Collierville). 850-8580; 1315 Ridgeway Rd. 763-7008; 6585 Towne Center Crossing (Southaven, MS). 662-536-4013; 2362 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 213-9077. B (some locations), L, D, FB, #, $, MRA

EL MEZCAL—Serves burritos, chimichangas, fajitas, and other Mexican cuisine, as well as shrimp dinners and steak. 4688 Knight Arnold. 360-1838; 402 Perkins Extd. 761-7710; 694 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 755-1447; 1492 Union. 274-4264. L, D, FB, #, $

EL PORTON—Fajitas and steak ranchero are just a few of the menu items. 2095 Merchants Row (Germantown). 754-4268; 65 S. Highland, Poplar Plaza. 452-7330; 1805 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 624-9358; 1016 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5770; 8361 U.S. Highway 64. 380-7877. L, D, FB, #, $

FIREBIRDS—Specialties are hand-cut steaks, prime rib, rotisserie chicken, and fresh seafood, 8470 Highway 64 (Bartlett). 379-1300; The Avenue at Carriage Crossing (Collierville). 850-1603. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN—Serves chicken with signature spicy batter, along with homemade beans, slaw, and pies. 310 S. Front. 527-4877; 215 South St. (Collierville). 853-6005. (Original location: 505 Highway 70 W., Mason, TN. 901-294-2028). L, D, Br, #, $-$$, MRA

HALF SHELL—Specializes in seafood, such as King crab legs; also serves steaks, chicken, pastas, salads, and sandwiches; oyster bar at Winchester location. 688 S. Mendenhall. 682-3966; 7825 Winchester. 737-6755. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

HARRY’S DETOUR—Eclectic American menu includes pecan-smoked meats and daily seafood specials. Closed Sunday and Monday, Cooper location; closed Sunday and Monday and dinner Tuesday, G.E. Patterson location. 532 S. Cooper. 276-7623; 106 G.E. Patterson. 523-9070. L, D, Br, #, $-$$

HUNAN PALACE—Menu items include Peking duck, orange beef, and “flower basket” of fish, chicken and vegetables in a Mandarin sauce. 1140 N. Germantown Parkway, Ste. 101 (Cordova). 751-8863; 7140 Highway 64. 388-7848. L, D, Br, #, $

INTERSTATE BAR-B-Q—Specialties include chopped pork-shoulder sandwiches, ribs, hot wings, spaghetti, chicken, and turkey. Closed Sunday, Southaven location. 2265 S. Third. 775-2304; 150 W. Stateline Rd. (Southaven). 662-393-5699. L, D, Br (S. Third), #, $, MRA

JIM’S PLACE—Features American, Greek, and Continental cuisine with such entrées as souflima (pork tenderloin) and Grecian lamb; also steaks and seafood. Closed for lunch Saturday and all day Sunday. 5560 Shelby Oaks. 388-7200; 3660 Houston Levee (Collierville). 861-5000. L, D, FB, #, $$, MRA

LA HACIENDA—Among the specialties are carnitas, shrimp adobe, and Mexican lasagne. 746 W. Poplar (Collierville). 850-7698; 1760 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 624-2920; 175-B Goodman Rd. W. 662-349-4484; 7034 Highway 64 (Oakland). 465-1505. L, D, FB, #, $

MCALISTER’S DELI—Sandwiches galore, including the Orange Cranberry Club with turkey, ham, and bacon topped with orange cranberry sauce and the California Classic with provolone and mozzarella cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, and bell peppers. Plus, there’s a wide selection of salads, stuffed baked potatoes, wraps, and McAlister’s Famous Sweet Tea. 3482 Plaza Avenue. 452-6009; 2857 Kirby Pkwy., Ste. 119. 756-2943; 580 S. Mendenhall. 763-2711; 3855 Hacks Cross. 881-6068; 1 Commerce Square, Ste. 150; 522-9123; 8385 Stage, Ste. 115. 388-7053; 6600 Stage, Ste. 120 (Bartlett). 213-3311; 7990 Trinity, Ste. 129 (Cordova). 737-7282; 7710 Poplar (Germantown). 753-1507; 336 Market Blvd. (Collierville). 853-1492; 8390 Hwy. 51N, Ste. 110 (Millington). 872-1983; 975 East Goodman, Ste. 21 (Southaven). 662-349-3354; 8120 Camp Creek, Ste. 110 (Olive Branch). 662-893-4120. L, D, $

DAN MCGUINNESS PUB—Serves fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, and other Irish fare; also such entrées as herb-crusted salmon. 150 Peabody Place. 527-8500; 4698 Spottswood. 761-3711. B (Sat.-Sunday), L, D, FB, #, $-$$

MEMPHIS PIZZA CAFE—Homemade pizzas are specialties; also serves sandwiches, calzones, and salads. 2089 Madison. 726-5343; 5061 Park Ave. 684-1306; 7604 W. Farmington (Germantown). 753-2218; 5627 Getwell (Southaven, MS). 662-536-1364; 797 W. Poplar (Collierville). 861-7800. L, D, Br, Wi (Madison only), #, $, MRA

MESQUITE CHOP HOUSE—The focus here is on steaks, including a prime filet, a 24-oz. porterhouse, and a bone-in tenderloin; also, some seafood options. 5960 Getwell (Southaven). 662-890-2467; 88 Union. 527-5337. D, FB, #, $$-$$$

NEELY’S BAR-B-QUE—Serves pork ribs, sandwiches, spaghetti, hot wings, nachos, and smoked turkey 670 Jefferson. 521-9798; 5700 Mt. Moriah. 795-4177. L, D, Br, #, $, MRA

ON THE BORDER—Dishes out such Tex-Mex specialties as fajitas and steak- and-shrimp combination. 8101 Giacosa Pl. (Cordova). 372-8883; 4552 Poplar. 763-0569; 7935 Winchester. 755-6404; 6572 Airways Blvd. 662-536-0901. L, D, FB, #, $

PANCHO’S—Serves up a variety of Mexican standards, including tacos, enchiladas, and mix-and-match platters. 3600 Broadway (West Memphis). 870-735-6466; 717 N. White Station. 685-5404. L, D, FB, % (West Memphis), #, $, MRA

PEI WEI ASIAN DINER—Serves Pan Asian cuisine (Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Korean, and Japanese) including General Tsao’s chicken. 1680 Union Ave., #109. 722-3780; 2257 N. Germantown Pkwy. 382-1822. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $

PETRA DELI & CAFE—Serves Greek, Italian and Middle Eastern sandwiches and entrées. Closed Sunday. 2140 W. Poplar Ave. (Collierville). 853-3521; 6641 Poplar. 754-4440. L, D, Br, #, $

PIG-N-WHISTLE—Offers pork shoulder sandwiches, wet and dry ribs, catfish, spaghetti, and stuffed barbecue potatoes; also homemade pies. 2740 Bartlett Rd. 386-3300; 6084 Kerr-Rosemark Rd. 872-2455. L, D, Br, FB (Kerr-Rosemark), #, $-$$

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS—Menu includes a large selection of gourmet burgers from the 5 Alarm with jalepeno peppers and salsa to the Monster Burger with two beef patties, American cheese, lettuce, tomato, and pickles. 1231 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-5501; The Avenue at Carriage Crossing (Collierville). 854-7645. L, D, FB, $

ROMANO’S MACARONI GRILL—Offers Northern Italian cuisine, including pasta Milano and penne rustica; also steaks, seafood, and salads. 6705 Poplar. 753-6588; 2859 N. Germantown Parkway. 266-4565. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

SEKISUI OF JAPAN/SEKISUI PACIFIC RIM & SUSHI BISTRO—Authentic Japanese cuisine, fresh sushi bar, grilled meats and seafood, California rolls, and vegetarian entrées. Pacific Rim cuisine at Poplar location. Closed for lunch Saturday-Sunday, at Belvedere, Union, Poplar, Collierville, and Goodman locations. Closed for lunch Saturday, and for dinner Sunday., Horn Lake. Humphreys Center, 50 Humphreys Blvd. Ste. 14. 747-0001; 25 Belvedere. 725-0005; Union at Second, Holiday Inn Select. 523-0001; 4724 Poplar (between Perkins & Colonial). 767-7770; 1884 N. Germantown Parkway (Cordova). 309-8800; 2130 W. Poplar (Collierville), Ste. 107. 854-0622; 1255 Goodman Rd. W. (Horn Lake, MS). 662-536-4404. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

TOPS BAR-B-Q—Specializing in pork barbecue sandwiches and sandwich plates with beans and slaw; also serves burgers and fries. 4183 Summer. 324-4325; 5391 Winchester. 794-7936; 6130 Macon. 371-0580. (See phone book/go online for more locations.) L, D, # (most locations), $, MRA

COLLIERVILLE

NEW TO COLLIERVILLE

[IMAGE-5]

ASHIYANA EXOTIC INDO PAK CUISINE — “Collierville is a very pretty town,” says Eric Manjiyani, manager of Ashiyana Exotic Indo Pak Cuisine, which opened just over a month ago. “We thought that it would be a good place to begin an Indian restaurant.” Ashiyana means “the house,” Manjiyani says, and was chosen to signify the restaurant’s dedication to an authentic Indian experience, from the menu’s Indo Pak flavoring to the sense of home it gives customers. Diners, both Indian and otherwise, have responded, Manjiyani says. “We’re having a lot of repeat customers. We’re short of seats right now. We wish we had a bigger place.” 835 W. Poplar (Collierville). 854-5411. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $

CAFE GRILL—Asian/American entrées are chicken chow mein soup along with meatloaf, beef brisket, and certified Angus steaks; also a luncheon buffet. Closed Sunday. 120 W. Mulberry. 853-7511. L, D, #, $

CAFE PIAZZA BY PAT LUCCHESI—Specializes in gourmet pizzas, panini sandwiches, and pasta. Closed Sunday. 139 S. Rowlett St. 861-1999. L, D, Br, Wi, # (except bathrooms), $-$$

CAFFE ITALIA—Lasagne, cannelloni, and carpaccio are among dinner entrées; for lunch: panini sandwiches, salads. Closed Sunday-Monday. 102 Mulberry St. 850-8363. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

CHEEBURGER CHEEBURGER—A true-blue burger joint, including the Serious (10-ounces), the Delirious (14 ounces), and the Famous One-Pounder (20 ounces, to be more exact). All burgers and chicken sandwiches are made-to-order. Menu also includes a wide selection of shakes and malts. The Avenue at Carriage Crossing. 861-6776. L, D, $

FINO VILLA—Entrées include prime filet mignon, sea bass and lobster ravioli, and pollo Fino Villa. 875 W. Poplar. 861-2626. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

FUJI CAFE—Offers traditional Japanese cuisine and sushi bar; specialties are teriyaki and tempura dishes. 875 W. Poplar. 854-7758. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $$

JA JA’S THAI RESTAURANT—The menu offers some 40 traditional Thai entrées, including sweet and spicy pork; popular for its egg rolls. Closed Sunday and Monday. 192 Washington. 850-5222. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $

LEE KAN’S ASIAN GRILL—Offers Pan-Asian cuisine; pepper-orange steak and Hong Kong-style noodles are entrées; also sushi. 255 New Byhalia Rd, Ste. 111. 853-6686. L, D, FB, #, $$

MULAN—Hunan chicken, spicy tofu, and orange beef served here; sushi too. 2059 Houston Levee. 850-5288. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$

PASTA ITALIA—Northern Italian cuisine featuring handmade pastas; specialties include ravioli, canneloni, and seafood dishes. Closed for lunch Saturday and all day Sunday-Monday. 101 N. Center St. 861-0255. L, D, Wi, #, $$-$$$

SHANTI STEAK HOUSE—Serves steak, chicken, pork chops, and seafood, including shrimp. Closed Sunday. 336 New Byhalia. 861-7177. D, Br, #, $-$$

STIX—Hibachi steakhouse with Asian cuisine features steak, chicken, and a filet-and-lobster combination; also sushi. Closed for lunch Sunday. The Avenue at Carriage Crossing. 854-3399. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

THE TENNESSEAN—Set in an old train car on Collierville’s town square. Changing seasonal menu of contemporary Southern cuisine includes steaks, fish, poultry, and pasta. Closed Sunday and Monday. 123 N. Rowlett. 853-9447. L, D, FB, #, $-$$$

COOPER-YOUNG

NEW TO COOPER-YOUNG

Justin Fox Burks

LOU’S PIZZA PIE — Has there ever been a business more perfectly named than “Pie in the Sky”? The local parlors have dished out perfect pizza in various locations from South Main to the heart of Midtown. And one by one, every location has closed, leaving fans unable to gorge themselves on the garden-fresh “Sun Pie” or stuff themselves silly on the olive- and artichoke-laden “Moon.” Fortunately for those who can’t get enough of “Bluto’s Revenge” (spinach, feta, roasted garlic, and roma tomatoes), Lou’s Pizza Pie in Cooper-Young is now serving all the classics. 2158 Young. 722-4031. L, D, $

BEAUTY SHOP—American/Southwestern/Asian cuisine served in a former beauty shop. Closed for dinner Sunday. 966 S. Cooper. 272-7111. L, D, FB, #, $$, MRA

THE BLUE FISH—Seafood specialties include pecan-crusted grouper with crawfish-crab relish. Also organic meats, free-range chicken, and oyster bar. Closed Sunday. 2149 Young. 725-0230. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

CAFE OLE—Chimichangas, shrimp diablo, fish tacos, vegetarian dishes, and daily specials are featured. 959 S. Cooper. 274-1504. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

CASABLANCA CAFE—Rack of lamb, grilled salmon with mango sauce, moussaka, and vegetarian entrées are served at this Moroccan/Greek/Middle Eastern restaurant. 2156 Young. 725-8557. L, D, #, $-$$

CELTIC CROSSING—Irish fare — including shepherd’s pie, fish & chips, and lamb stew — is featured here. 903 S. Cooper. 274-5151. L, D, FB, #, $, MRA

DISH—Specialties here range from deviled crab cakes to tempura prawns with spicy red pepper aioli; also tapas, i.e., “small plates”; choose from 45 items. 948 S. Cooper. 276-0002. D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

DO—This small Tokyo-style sushi bar features teriyaki, sushi rolls, grilled items, bento-box meals, salads, and more. Closed Sunday and Monday. 964 S. Cooper. 272-0830. D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

JASMINE THAI RESTAURANT—Entrées include panang green curry, masaman, and pad thai (noodles, shrimp, and peanuts); also seafood, vegetarian dishes. Closed Monday. 916 S. Cooper. 725-0223. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$

TSUNAMI—Features Pacific Rim cuisine (Asia, Australia, South Pacific, etc.); also a changing “small plate” menu. Closed Sunday. 928 S. Cooper. 274-2556. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

CORDOVA

NEW TO CORDOVA

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WASABI SUSHI AND SAKE BAR — Both food and restaurant are eye-pleasing at Cordova’s Wasabi Sushi and Sake Bar, which opened August 8th. “We have unique décor, and everything is sectioned out,” says owner Johnny Lum. “We have very comfortable sofas, bar seating, booths, and contemporary artwork. It’s mix and match — casual but intimate and relaxing.” As for the food, Wasabi focuses on “presentation, good flavors, and quality seafood fresh from our vendors,” Lum says.
1134 N. Germantown Pkwy. (Cordova). 754-0567. L, D, $

BAHAMA BREEZE—West Indies ribs, Jamaican-grilled chicken, and coconut shrimp are among the entrées at this Caribbean-themed restaurant. 2830 N. Germantown Parkway, Wolfchase Galleria. 385-8744. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

BOMBAY HOUSE—Indian fare includes lamb korma and chicken tikka; also, a daily luncheon buffet. 1727 N. Germantown Parkway. 755-4114. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$

HUNAN GOURMET—Serves authentic Asian cuisine and features a sushi bar, Hong Kong-style noodle bar, and Mongolian barbecue. 2965 N. Germantown Rd., Ste. 102. 371-9329. L, D, Br, #, $

JOE’S CRAB SHACK—Serves a variety of seafood, along with chicken, steak, and pasta. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday. 7990 Horizon Blvd. 384-7478. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

THE MELTING POT—Steak, seafood, and poultry entrées prepared fondue-style at your table; also package meals. 2828 Wolfcreek Parkway. 380-9500. D, FB, #, $$-$$$$, MRA

SHOGUN JAPANESE RESTAURANT—Entrées include tempura, teriyaki, and sushi, as well as grilled fish and chicken entrées. Closed for lunch Saturday. 2324 N. Germantown Parkway. 384-4122. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

DOWNTOWN

NEW TO DOWNTOWN

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ITTA BENA — “I love to hear live music, and I love to eat good food, but I don’t want to do them at the same time,” says Wil Thompson, general manager of the new, casual, elegant, bistro-style restaurant Itta Bena. The reason he mentions it is Itta Bena’s unique location: on the third floor of B.B. King’s Blues Club on the corner of Second and Beale, an intersection much more famous for hot guitar licks than pan-seared Alaskan halibut. When constructing the floor of his oasis of “serenity” above the club, Thompson says he “put down a layer of plywood, a layer of soundboard, another layer of plywood, a layer of rubber, and a layer of oak.” There’s also an entrance directly to the club, just in case the call of the wild gets to you. 143 Beale. 578-3031. D, Br, Wi, FB, %, $$-$$$, MRA

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MY GREEK CAFE — 345 Madison has been many things in recent years: a stripped-down punk club, an overstuffed comedy club, and various bars. It was recently converted by John Gegumis into My Greek Cafe, a sprawling, dark, and comfortable cafe offering authentic Mediterranean delights. Gegumis previously managed O Kypos, a wonderful but tiny diner located in the downtown Comfort Inn. My Greek Cafe is a reasonably priced, full-service reincarnation of O Kypos, with a full bar and an occasional spot of live music. Gegumis spent eight years cooking in his family’s restaurant on Kalamaki Beach in Zakynthos, Greece, and his simple takes on such Greek staples as souvlaki and spanakopita are steeped in family tradition. Gegumis has also brought back the succulent lamb ribs that made his little diner the talk of downtown foodies. Closed Sundays. 345 Madison. 507-2720. L, D, FB, $[IMAGE-9]

THE ARCADE—Offers American home-cooking, plus gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, and daily lunch specials. 540 S. Main. 526-5757. B, L, Br, #, $, MRA

AUTOMATIC SLIM’S TONGA CLUB—Specializes in American Southwestern/Asian/Jamaican cuisine, including coconut mango shrimp and whole red snapper. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday. 83 S. Second. 525-7948. L, D, FB, #, $$, MRA

BIG FOOT LODGE—Hefty portions of prime rib, lobster, deep-fried Cornish game hens, catfish, and burgers (including 4-lb. Sasquatch) are specialties. 97 S. Second. 578-9800. L, D, FB, #, $-$$$, MRA

BLUEFIN RESTAURANT & SUSHI LOUNGE—Serves fusion or “edge” cuisine featuring seafood and steaks; also, a sushi bar. 135 S. Main. 528-1010. L (Tues.-Thurs.), D, FB, #, $$, MRA

BLUES CITY PASTRY SHOP & COFFEE BAR—Pastry shop and coffee bar on South Main downtown, featuring coffee and espresso and sweet treats, including chocolate pyramids and Mississippi Mud Cake. 153 S. Main. 576-0010. B, $

BLUFF CITY BAYOU—Cajun specialties are gumbo, crawfish étouffée, and jambalaya, as well as po’boy sandwiches and muffalettas. Closed Saturday and Sunday. 694 Madison. 527-0860. L, #, $

CAFE 61—American eclectic/Asian/Cajun entrées include blackened grouper and crispy duck waffles; also Sunday brunch. 85 S. Second. 523-9351. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

CAPRICCIO GRILL ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE—Steaks, seafood, pasta, and several northern Italian specialties are entrées. 149 Union Ave., The Peabody. 529-4199. B, L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

CAYENNE MOON—Serves New Orleans-Southern cuisine, specializing in lump crabcakes and seafood gumbo. Closed Sunday-Monday. 94 S. Front. 522-1475. D, #, $-$$, MRA

CENTER FOR SOUTHERN FOLKLORE AND CAFE—Vegetarian greens, hot-water cornbread, and peach cobbler are menu items. Closed Sunday. Main at Peabody Place Trolley Stop. 525-3655. L, Br, #, $, MRA

CHEZ PHILIPPE—Three-to-five-course meals offered with emphasis on French food with Asian flair. Afternoon tea also served from 2 to 3 p.m. (reservations required). Closed Sunday and Monday. The Peabody, 149 Union. 529-4188. D, FB, #, $$$$, MRA

CIRCA—Regional French cuisine with such specialties as sorghum-cured rack of lamb; menu includes steaks, chops, seafood. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday. 119 S. Main, Pembroke Square. 522-1488. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

CONTE’S—Lasagna, baked ziti, chicken parmesan, and mussels in white wine sauce are menu items. Closed for lunch Saturday and all day Sunday and Monday. 149 Madison. 526-6837. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$

DAILY GRILL—Services classic American cuisine; dinner entrées include filet medallions, short ribs, steaks, and seafood, along with meatloaf and chicken pot pie. Westin Hotel, 170

Lt. George W. Lee. 334-5950. B, L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

ENCORE—Chef Jose Gutierrez offers French and Mediterranean entrées at this European-style bistro. Closed Monday. 150 Peabody Place, #111. 528-1415. D, FB, #,$$, MRA

E P DELTA KITCHEN & BAR—Serving a fusion of Cajun, Creole, and Southern cuisine in the former Elvis Presley’s Memphis eatery. Specialties include lobster étouffée and smoked duck gumbo; also a late-night menu. 126 Beale at Second. 527-1444. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

FELICIA SUZANNE’S—Crispy oysters in New Orleans barbecue sauce and filet of beef tenderloin with applewood-smoked-bacon potato cakes are American-Southern specialties. Closed Sunday and Monday. Brinkley Plaza, 80 Monroe, Ste. L1. 523-0877. L (Fri. only), D, FB, #, $$$, MRA

THE FLYING FISH—Serves up fried and grilled versions of shrimp, crab legs, oysters, catfish, and more. 105 S. Second. 522-8228. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$, MRA

GRILL 83—European-style steakhouse serves prime steaks and fresh seafood, including a signature New Orleans-style seafood gumbo. 83 Madison Ave., Madison Hotel. 333-1224. B, L, D, FB, %, # (except bathrooms), $$-$$$, MRA

HAPPY MEXICAN—Fajitas, steak ranchero, and a shrimp cocktail are specialties. Closed Sunday. 385 S. Second St. 529-9991. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

HARD ROCK CAFÉ—Menu includes “Tupelo” chicken tenders, New York strip steak, grilled salmon, and more. 315 Beale. 529-0007. L, D, FB, $-$$

INN AT HUNT-PHELAN—Cuisine is American with a Southern emphasis; also French entrées; Sunday brunch. 533 Beale St. 525-8225. Closed for dinner Sunday and all day Monday and Tuesday. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

LOLO’S TABLE—Specialties are pan-seared scallops and sauteed lump crab cakes. Closed for lunch Saturday and all day Sunday. 128 Monroe. 522-9449. L, D, FB, #, $$, MRA

MCEWEN’S ON MONROE—Southern-American entrées include pepper-seared beef tenderloin with a Dijon cognac cream sauce;

and sweet-potato-crusted catfish with mac-and-cheese. Closed for lunch Saturday, all day Sunday. 122 Monroe. 527-7085. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

THE MAJESTIC—Offers American food, including pizza, shrimp, and pork tenderloin. 145 S. Main. 522-8555. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

MARMALADE—Southern homestyle entrées include catfish, fried chicken, pork chops, barbecued ribs, and chili. Closed Sunday and Monday. 153 G.E. Patterson. 522-8800. D, FB, #, $

MOLLY FONTAINE LOUNGE—This new eatery specializes in tapas (small plates) featuring global cuisine. 679 Adams. 524-1886. Closed Sunday-Tuesday. D, FB, #, $

MOVIE & PIZZA COMPANY—Offers a wide selection of pizzas as well as a wide selection of movies for rent. The menu includes meat and veggie pizzas as well as sandwiches. 110 Harbor Town Sq. 527-2233. L, D, Br, $

PEARL’S OYSTER HOUSE—Specializing in seafood, including oysters, crawfish, and stuffed butterfly shrimp. Closed Sunday. 299 S. Main. 522-9070. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

PEOPLE’S ON BEALE—Sports bar with plenty of pool tables to keep you occupied for hours, with a menu featuring traditional pub grub from hamburgers to chicken fingers. 323 Beale. 523-7627. L, D, FB, $

THE PIER—Specializes in steaks, prime rib, and seafood — including King crab and lobster tails; has excellent river views. 100 Wagner Place. 526-7381. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

RENDEZVOUS—Menu items include barbecued ribs, chicken, beef brisket, nachos; also cheese plates, skillet shrimp, Greek salads. Closed Sunday and Monday. 52 S. Second. 523-2746. L (Fri.-Sat. only), D, Br, Wi, #, $, MRA

RIO LOCO—Entrées include fajitas, burritos, and seafood selections. 117 Union Ave. 523-2142. L, D, FB, #, $

SAUCES—Specializes primarily in seafood — including grouper, mahi, and halibut — accompanied by diners’ choice of complementary sauces, such as rosemary tomato basil and lobster cream. Closed Monday. 95 S. Main, Ste. 106. 473-9573. L, D, FB, #, $, MRA

SAWADDII—Among the Thai entrées are grilled sea bass with curry sauce and mahi-mahi with spicy chili sauce. 121 Union Ave. 529-1818. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

SPINDINI—Judd Grisanti offers regional Mediterranean fare, featuring steaks, seafood, and chicken dishes, cooked in a wood-burning oven. 383 S. Main. 578-2767. D, FB, #, $-$$$, MRA

STELLA—”Southern/global” fine-dining cuisine features steaks, fresh seafood, lamb, and more. Closed Sunday. 39 S. Main (at Monroe). 526-4950. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

TEXAS DE BRAZIL—Serves beef, pork, lamb, and chicken dishes and Brazilian sausage; 60-item gourmet salad area; weekend brunch. 150 Peabody Place, Ste. 103. 526-7600. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

ZANZIBAR—Specializes in “new world” cuisine; entrées include Thai-glazed chicken wings, peanut soup, and various sandwiches and salads. Closed Sunday (except for brunch), Monday and Tuesday. 412 S. Main. 543-9646. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

EAST MEMPHIS

BRONTE—Full-service restaurant in a bookstore setting serves seafood, steaks, pastas, quiches, sandwiches, and salads. Davis-Kidd Booksellers, 387 Perkins Extd. 374-0881. B, L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$, MRA

CAFE TOSCANA—Serves contemporary Italian specialties, including parmesan talapia, along with other pasta and seafood. Closed Sunday. 5007 Black Rd., Ste. 150. 761-9522. D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

CAL’S STEAKHOUSE—University of Memphis basketball coach John Calipari lends his name and sports memorabilia to this restaurant serving steaks, pasta, and seafood. Double Tree Hotel, 5069 Sanderlin. 322-6666. B, L, D, FB, #, $-$$$, MRA

CASPIAN PERSIAN CUISINE—Fesenjon — i.e., pomegranate sauce with walnuts poured over chicken breasts — is a specialty; also grilled fillets, chicken, and Cornish hens. 715 W. Brookhaven Cl. 767-3134. L, D, FB, #, $-$$$

ERLING JENSEN, THE RESTAURANT—Presents “globally inspired” cuisine; specialties are rack of lamb, fresh fish, and wild game. 1044 S. Yates. 763-3700. D, FB, #, $$$, MRA

FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE—Serves steaks, prime beef, and chops, as well as chicken and fresh fish,. 6245 Poplar. 761-6200. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

FOLK’S FOLLY ORIGINAL PRIME STEAK HOUSE—Specializes in prime steaks, as well as lobster, grilled Scottish salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, rack of lamb, and weekly specials. 551 S. Mendenhall. 762-8200. D, FB, #, $$$-$$$$, MRA

FRATELLI’S—Serves hot and cold sandwiches, salads, and soups, Closed Sunday and Monday. Memphis Botanic Garden, 750 Cherry Rd. 576-4118. L, #, $

THE GROVE GRILL—Offers steaks, chops, seafood, and other American cuisine with a Southern flair; entrées include shrimp and grits and sweet potato and turnip green hash; also Sunday brunch. 4550 Poplar. 818-9951. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

HIGH POINT PIZZA—Serves salads, sandwiches, and pizzas, including Margherita, barbecue pork, veggie, four-meat, and more. Pizza-by-the slice is available during lunch. 477 High Point Terrace. 452-3339. Closed Monday. L, D, $

INTERIM—Offers American-seasonal cuisine. A specialty is Memphis barbecued pork chop with goat-cheese grits, bacon-wilted greens, and smoked tomato sauce; also a Gulf seafood of the day. Closed for lunch Saturday and all day Sunday. 5040 Sanderlin, Ste. 105. 818-0821. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

JARRETT’S—Changing menu of American bistro cuisine includes horseradish-encrusted grouper and smoked trout ravioli with Arkansas caviar. Closed Sunday. 5689 Quince. 763-2264. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

LULU GRILLE—Offers fresh seafood, steaks, chops, wild game, pasta, several sandwiches and homemade desserts. Closed Sunday except for brunch. 565 Erin, Erinway Shopping Center. 763-3677. L, D, FB, #, $-$$$, MRA

MANTIA’S—A Mediterranean cafe, deli, and market serving soups, sandwiches, salads, steaks, pasta, and seafood. Closed Sunday. 4856 Poplar. 762-8560. L, D, Wi, #, $-$$, MRA

MAYURI INDIAN CUISINE—Serves tandoori chicken, tikka masala, as well as lamb and shrimp entrées; also a lunch buffet, weekend dinner buffet. 6524 Quince Rd. 753-8755. L, D, Br, #, $

MORTIMER’S—Trout almondine, hand-cut steaks, and seafood pasta are among the offerings. Closed for lunch Saturday. 590 N. Perkins. 761-9321. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

NAPA CAFE—American eclectic specialties are prime dry-aged beef with red wine shallot demi-glace, rack of lamb, and potato-encrusted halibut. Closed for lunch Saturday and all day Sunday. 5101 Sanderlin, Ste. 122. 683-0441. L, D, FB, #, $$, MRA

NEW HUNAN—Chinese eatery with more than 80 entrées; also lunch/dinner buffets and a sushi bar. 5052 Park. 766-1622. L, D, #, $

OLD VENICE—Lasagna, pizzas, paninis, and various pastas are among the specialties here, including the “Pasta Maria” and the “John Wayne Pizza.” 368 S. Perkins Ext. 767-6872. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

THE TOWER ROOM AMERICAN GRILL—Offers steaks, seafood, pasta, lamb, and chicken dishes; also, vegetarian upon request. Clark Tower, 5100 Poplar, Ste. 3300. 767-8776. L (Monday-Fri.), D (Wed.-Sat.), FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

WANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Among the specialties here are crisp duck, shrimp, and scallops in garlic sauce, and grilled chicken with cucumber. 4002 Park. 327-4089. L, D, FB, $, MRA

WILD OATS—Offers “all-natural foods” and vegetarian menu, with pizza, hot-food bar, sushi bar, salad bar, deli, bakery, and more. 5022 Poplar. 685-2293. L, D, #, $

GERMANTOWN

ASIAN GRILL—Specializes in Pan-Asian cuisine (Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, and Malaysian) as well as fusion entrées. 2072 West St. (Germantown). 737-3988. L, D, Br, #, $

BITTERSWEET RESTAURANT—Lobster pie and filet Oscar are specialties at this steak/seafood place with a New England flair. Closed Monday and for lunch Tuesday. 7685 Farmington Blvd. (Germantown). 624-9499. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$

EQUESTRIA—Serves American-global fusion cuisine with Southwestern accents. Closed Sunday and Monday. 3165 Forest Hill-Irene Rd. 869-2663. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

GERMANTOWN COMMISSARY—Barbecue sandwiches, ribs, nachos, and shrimp in a rustic atmosphere. 2290 S. Germantown. 754-5540. L, D, Br, # (except bathrooms), $, MRA

NEW ASIA—Specializing in authentic Chinese food. 2075 Exeter (Germantown). 758-8388. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$

ROYAL PANDA—Hunan fish, Peking duck, Szechuan chicken, and a seafood combo are among the specialties. 3120 Village Shops Dr. (Germantown). 756-9697. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$

SAKURA—Sushi, tempura, and teriyaki are Japanese specialties. Closed Sunday. 2060 West St. 758-8181. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

THREE OAKS GRILL—Rack of lamb, filet Paulette, prime New York strip T-bones, and crab-stuffed halibut are among the entrées. Closed for lunch Saturday. 2285 S. Germantown Rd. 757-8225. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

YIA YIA’S EUROCAFE—Wood-roasted salmon, and pork chops with smoked mushroom sauce are among the entrées; also steaks, pastas, pizzas, sandwiches, and salads; also, Sunday brunch. 7615 West Farmington at Poplar, Shops of Saddle Creek. 756-4004. L, D, FB, #, $$

MIDTOWN

ABYSSINIA RESTAURANT—Ethiopian cuisine is featured, with beef, chicken, lamb, fish entrées and vegetarian dishes; also, a daily buffet. Closed Sunday. 2600 Poplar. 321-0082. L, D, Br, #, $

THE BAR-B-Q SHOP—Dishes up barbecued ribs, bologna, chicken, pork shoulder sandwiches, and spaghetti, along with beef brisket, sandwiches, and salads. Closed Sunday. 1782 Madison. 272-1277. L, D, Br, #, $, MRA

BARI—Authentic Southeastern Italian cuisine emphasizes lighter entrées and fresh seafood, such as roasted striped bass, spaghetti carbonara, and fresh grilled sardines. 22 S. Cooper. 722-2244. D, FB, #, $$, MRA

BAYOU BAR & GRILL—Cajun fare includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish acadian, Cajun shrimp, red beans and rice, and muffalettas. 2105 Overton Square Lane. 278-8626. L, D, FB, #, $, MRA

BHAN THAI—Serves curries, pad Thai noodles, and vegetarian dishes, as well as seafood, pork, and duck entrées. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday and all day Monday. 1324 Peabody. 272-1538. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

BOSCOS SQUARED—Serves pasta, seafood, steaks, sandwiches, and pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven; also a variety of freshly brewed beers; also Sunday brunch. 2120 Madison. 432-2222. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

THE BRUSHMARK—Serves sandwiches, salads, and crepes; a signature item is African peanut soup. Closed Monday. Brooks Museum, Overton Park, 1934 Poplar. 544-6225. L, D, FB, #, $, MRA

Justin Fox Burks

CAFE 1912—Serves French/American/Creole cuisine, with Italian influences; seafood entrées include steamed mussels; also crepes and salads; offers Sunday brunch. 243 S. Cooper. 722-2700. D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$, MRA

CAFE SOCIETY—With Belgian and classic French influences, serves Angus beef, veal, chicken, and seafood dishes, along with weekly specials. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday.
212 N. Evergreen. 722-2177. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

DRAGON CHINA—Specializes in Mandarin, Cantonese, and Szechuan cuisine, all-day buffet, and a 140-item menu. 1680 Madison. 278-8838. L, D, #, $

GOLDEN INDIA—Northern Indian specialties include tandoori chicken as well as lamb, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian dishes; also, a luncheon buffet. 2097 Madison. 728-5111. L, D, Br, Wi, $

INDIA PALACE—Tandoori chicken, lamb boti kabobs, and chicken tikka masala are among the entrées; also, vegetarian options and a daily lunch buffet. 1720 Poplar. 278-1199. L, D, Br, #, $

LE CHARDONNAY—Seafood, steak, and chicken entrées include Stilton-stuffed tenderloin and citrus-glazed grouper; also wood-fired pizzas. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday. 2100-5 Overton Square Lane. 725-1375. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

LOBSTER KING—Specializes in Cantonese cuisine with an emphasis on fresh seafood, including crab, clams, and lobster. 32 N. Cleveland. 725-5990. L, D, #, $-$$, MRA

LOS COMPADRES—Entrées are enchiladas, burritos, tamales, tacos, and vegetarian dishes. 2617 Poplar. 458-5731. L, D, FB, #, $

MOLLY’S LA CASITA—Fajitas, chiles rellenos, a vegetarian combo, and bacon-wrapped shrimp are a few of the specialties. 2006 Madison. 726-1873. L, D, FB, #, $-$$ MRA

PAULETTE’S—Presents fine dining with a Continental flavor, including such entrées as crepes Florentine; also grilled steaks, chicken, salads, and rich desserts; offers weekend brunch. 2110 Madison. 726-5128. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

PETRA RESTAURANT—Offers primarily Greek cuisine, with some Middle Eastern and Korean dishes. Closed Sunday and Monday. 1761 Madison. 726-6700. L, D, Br, #, $$

PHO VIETNAM—Offers traditional Vietnamese cuisine, including stir-fry, spring rolls, and egg rolls. 1411 Poplar. 728-4711. L, D, Br, #, $

SAIGON LE—Vietnamese/Chinese specialties include pork chops with mushrooms and shrimp in black-bean sauce; vegetarian options too. Closed Sunday. 51 N. Cleveland. 276-5326. L, D, Br, # (except bathrooms), $

SHANG HAI—Offers Chinese, Vietnamese, and Thai cuisine; one specialty is shrimp wrapped in bacon and noodles. Closed Sunday. 1400 Poplar. 722-8692. L, D, Br, # (except bathrooms), $

SIDE STREET GRILL—This martini and cigar bar also offers steaks, pasta dishes, and more. 35 S. Florence. 274-8955. D, FB, $-$$

TUSCANY—Formerly La Tourelle, serves Italian cuisine in a casual setting. Specialties include grilled sea bass and crawfish/tomato/lemon basil pasta; also Sunday brunch. 2146 Monroe. 726-5771. D, FB, #, $$

UMAI—Japanese-French fusion specialties include spinach gyozas stuffed with wild mushroom duxelles, and 48-hour-marinated duck breast; also, Sunday brunch. Closed Monday-Tuesday. 2015 Madison. 405-4241. D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$, MRA

NORTH MISSISSIPPI

BOILING POINT SEAFOOD & OYSTER BAR—Louisiana-style seafood includes crawfish, shrimp & grits, catfish, pasta dishes, seafood platters, and more. 4975 Pepperchase Dr. Southaven. 662-280-7555. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

BONNE TERRE CAFE—Offers American/French/Continental cuisine, including roast rack of lamb, chicken Florentine. Closed Sunday and Monday. 4715 Church Rd. W., Nesbit, MS. 662-781-5100. D, FB, #, $$$, MRA

CITY GROCERY—Southern eclectic menu of steaks and seafood changes seasonally; shrimp and grits is a specialty. Closed Sunday. 152 Courthouse Square, Oxford, Mississippi. 662-232-8080. L, D, FB, # (downstairs), $$-$$$

THE HOLLYWOOD CAFE—Serves steaks and seafood in a casual setting; also fried green tomatoes, dill pickles, and frog legs. Closed Sunday. 1130 Old Commerce Rd. Robinsonville, MS. 662-363-1126. L (Monday-Fri.), D (Fri.-Sat.), FB, #, $$

LEELAVADEE THAI CUISINE—Green curry with shrimp (or beef, pork, chicken, tofu, or vegetables) is a specialty here; also tom-yum soup. Closed Monday. 775 Goodman Rd., Ste. 11, Southaven. 662-536-4699. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

MADIDI—Owned in part by actor Morgan Freeman, Madidi serves French cuisine with a Southern flair. Closed Sunday and Monday. 164 Delta Ave., Clarksdale, MS. 662-627-7770/7724. D, FB, # (downstairs), $$-$$$

OLIVE BRANCH CATFISH COMPANY—Serves its catfish fried or grilled and blackened. Other menu items include steak, marinated chicken, and fried shrimp. 9659 Old Highway 78, Olive Branch, Mississippi. 662-895-9494. L, D, Br, #, $, MRA

TIMBEAUX’S—Creole/French specialties include fish stew in a tomato saffron broth, steak bordelaise, crawfish pizza, and jumbo shrimp and grits. Closed for lunch Saturday and all day Sunday. 333 Losher St. Hernando, MS. 662-429-0500. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$

POPLAR/I-240

AMERIGO—Specializes in pasta and wood-fired pizzas; also serves steaks and cedarwood-roasted fish. 1239 Ridgeway, Park Place Mall. 761-4000. L, D, FB, #, $-$$$, MRA

Justin Fox Burks

BENIHANA OF TOKYO—Japanese steakhouse with sushi bar offers beef, chicken, and seafood items grilled at your table. 912 Ridge Lake Boulevard. 683-7390. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$

BROOKLYN BRIDGE ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Specializing in such homemade entrées as pasta in a vodka-tomato-cream sauce. Closed Sunday. 1779 Kirby Pkwy. 755-7413. D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

CHAO PRAYA—Thai dishes are panang seafood, gang koa duck, and green papaya salad. Closed for dinner Monday. 3588 Ridgeway. 366-7827. L, D, Br, Wi, #, $-$$, MRA

COZYMEL’S—Serves coastal Mexican entrées — from the Yucatan Especial to Chicken Flameado to sizzling fajitas; seafood entrées as well. 6450 Poplar. 763-1202. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

FRANK GRISANTI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT—Northern Italian favorites include pasta with jumbo shrimp and mushrooms; also seafood, filet mignon, and daily lunch specials. Closed for lunch Sunday. Embassy Suites Hotel, 1022 Shady Grove. 761-9462. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

MIKASA JAPAN—Seafood and traditional Japanese dishes include sukiyaki, shrimp tempura, and chicken teriyaki; sushi buffet also featured. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday. 6150 Poplar. 683-0000. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

MISTER B’s—Features New Orleans-style seafood and steaks. Closed for lunch Saturday and all day Sunday. 6655 Poplar,
Ste. 107. 751-5262. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

MOSA ASIAN BISTRO—Specialties include sesame chicken, pad Thai, and other Pan Asian entrées. Closed Sunday. 1825 Kirby Parkway. 755-6755. L, D, Br, #, $

OWEN BRENNAN’S—New Orleans-style menu of beef, chicken, pasta, and seafood; jambalaya and crawfish étouffée are specialties; also Sunday brunch. Closed for dinner Sunday. The Regalia, 6150 Poplar. 761-0990. L, D, FB, #, $-$$$, MRA

PARADISE CAFE—Offers soups, salads, sandwiches, pasta, and several vegetarian dishes. Closed Sunday. 6150 Poplar, Ste. 120. 821-9600. L, #, $

P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO—Specialties are Mongolian beef and chicken in lettuce wraps; also vegetarian dishes, including spicy eggplant. Park at Ridgeway, Park Place Centre. 818-3889. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

RIVER OAKS—Crabcakes are among the specialties at this restaurant serving French-American classics; also free-range/organic meats. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday. 5871 Poplar. 683-9305. L, D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

ROOKS CORNER—American bistro serving steaks, seafood, pasta, sandwiches, and salads. Memphis Hilton, 939 Ridgelake Blvd., 762-7477. B, L, D, FB, #, $-$$$, MRA

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE—Offers prime steaks cut and aged in-house, as well as lamb, chicken, and fresh seafood, including lobster. 6120 Poplar. 761-0055. D, FB, #, $$-$$$, MRA

SALSA—Specialties include carnitas, chiles rellenos, and fajitas; also Southwestern seafood dishes such as tilapia with fresh pico de gallo. Closed Sunday. Regalia Shopping Center, 6150 Poplar. 683-6325. L, D, FB, #, $-$$, MRA

WANG’S MANDARIN HOUSE—Offers Mandarin, Canton

ese, Szechuan, and spicy Hunan entrées, as well as vegetarian and weight-watcher specials. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday. 6065 Park Ave., Park Place Mall. 763-0676; 113 S. Main. 523-2065. L, D, FB, #, $, MRA

SOUTH MEMPHIS

HONG KONG—Cantonese and Mandarin standards are sweet-and-sour chicken and pepper beef. 3966 Elvis Presley. 396-0801. L, D, Br, #, $

Justin Fox Burks

SUMMER/BERCLAIR

EDO—Known for its seafood dishes and sushi. Entrées include shrimp tempura and chicken teriyaki. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday, and all day Monday. 4792 Summer. 767-7096. L, D, Br, #, $-$$

LOTUS—Serves Vietnamese-Asian fare, including whole boneless duck, lemon-grass chicken and shrimp, egg rolls, and spicy Vietnamese vermicelli. 4970 Summer. 682-1151. D, Br, #, $

NAGASAKI INN—Grilled chicken, steak, and lobster are among the main courses; meal is cooked at your table. 3951 Summer. 454-0320. D, FB, # (except bathrooms), $-$$

PANDA GARDEN—Sesame chicken and broccoli beef are among the Mandarin, Szechuan, and Hunan entrées at this popular eatery. 3735 Summer. 323-4819. L, D, BR, $-$$

WINCHESTER/HICKORY HILL

FORMOSA—Offers Mandarin, Szechuan, and Hunan cuisine, including sesame chicken, Mongolian and broccoli beef, and hot-and-sour soup. Closed Monday. 6685 Quince. 753-9898. L, D, FB, #, $-$$

HELLO RESTAURANT—Lemon-grass chicken, vegetarian dishes, noodle soup, and stir-fry combos are among the Chinese/Vietnamese/American entrées. Closed Sunday. 5910 Mt. Moriah (just west of Ridgeway), Ste. 103. 362-8875. L, D, Br, #, $-$$

HIBACHI JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE AND SUSHI BAR—In addition to Japanese-style grilled steaks and seafood, Hibachi serves salads, soups, and hand rolls. Closed for lunch Saturday and Sunday. 2809 Kirby Parkway, Ste. 109. 737-2124. L, D, FB, #, $$

TYCOON—Among the Chinese,Vietnamese, and Thai entrées are spicy garlic shrimp and coconut-curry chicken. 3307 Kirby Parkway. 362-8788. L, D, Br, #, $

Tags Dining Guide, Memphis, restaurant

Food & Wine Food & Drink

On the Move

Post author By Simone Wilson
Post date June 28, 2007

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Café de France, inside Palladio Antiques & Art, will close on Saturday, June 30th. Jeanell and Donnie Morris, the café’s owners, have recently decided to revive the French Bakery, their wholesale operation, which has been dormant for a year.

“It took us a while to decide what we ultimately wanted to do with the French Bakery,” Jeanell Morris says.

One of the problems the couple faced at the French Bakery was the repair of some of their expensive baking equipment.

“Our big French mixer, which holds more than 200 quarts of dough, had broken, and it seemed impossible to find someone locally who could fix it,” Jeanell says. “If you have to fly in a specialist from France every time something breaks, you’ll run out of money very quickly.”

Because the Morrises’ business was almost exclusively wholesale, except for the items they baked for their own café, using an 80-quart mixer that can only hold a 50-pound bag of flour wasn’t an option. Quitting was never really an option, either.

“My heart is in this,” Jeanell says. “And we have a lot of customers who kept asking if we would ever open a retail bakery. Memphis needs a bakery.”

So, even though Café de France is closing, the Morrises have plans to open a retail bakery in East Memphis. The couple hopes to find enough investors to open Café de France Bistro and Bakery in the former Honeysuckle Health Foods space on Mendenhall near Poplar in October.

When the Morrises first took over what’s now the French Bakery in 1998, they had no clue what they were getting themselves into. Neither of them had any experience baking or working in a bakery. But fate put the bakery in their hands.

Guy’s Bakery was owned by Guy Pacaud, a Frenchman who had moved to Memphis in the 1970s and worked at La Baguette before opening his own bakery and later, La Patisserie, a restaurant in the space that is now occupied by Jarrett’s. Jeanell and Donnie were close friends with Pacaud, who died in a car accident in 1998 while delivering bread. In his will, Pacaud wanted Donnie to take over the bakery and buy his wife Libby out.

“This was really hard for my husband because he felt that the bakery killed Guy,” Jeanell explains. Nevertheless, the couple dug in. Donnie went on to learn the ropes of bread baking from master baker Didier Rosada at the American Institute for Bakers, and everything seemed to fall in place. “Donnie always felt like Guy’s spirit was around to help us make this work,” Jeanell says.

The couple focused on the wholesale business until four years ago, when the opportunity for the new venture at Palladio became available. At Café de France, the Morrises served lunch and the occasional dinner when the antique store received shipments from France. The menu was simple: a cheese plate, smoked chicken, tuna, shrimp, and pasta salads, salade Lyonnaise, and an extensive sandwich list that included baked brie, marinated eggplant, and corned beef brisket.

The lunch menu at the new Café de France on Mendenhall will be similar, and they’ll also serve breakfast. Plus, customers will be able to pick up freshly baked croissants in the retail space at 7 a.m.

Red Robin Gourmet Burgers has opened its first location at the Avenue Carriage Crossing in Collierville, with a second location on Germantown Parkway coming soon. A total of five locations in the Memphis area are planned for the Colorado-based burger chain.

Started in the 1940s as Sam’s Tavern in Seattle, Washington, the restaurant then became Sam’s Red Robin before finally transforming from a tavern into the first Red Robin restaurant in 1969. Now the company has 350 restaurants throughout the United States as well as Canada.

Red Robin serves every sort of burger: chicken, “Bleu Ribbon,” guacamole/bacon, sautéed “‘Schroom,” “Honky Tonk BBQ Pork,” etc. — all accompanied by its signature “bottomless” steak fries.Red Robin, 4641 Merchants Park Circle (854-7645)

Tags Food, French Bakerey, preview, restaurant, Review

Food & Wine Food & Drink

On the Go

Post author By Simone Wilson
Post date June 14, 2007

ForbesTraveler.com has named The Peabody one of the 15 top foodie hotels in the nation. The Peabody shares the honor with New York City’s Four Seasons Hotel, home to L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon; Washington, D.C.’s Latham Hotel, which houses Citronelle; and Wynn Las Vegas, which has 11 restaurants, including Daniel Boulud Brasserie.

The expert panel included Washington Post food critic Phyllis Richman, James Beard Foundation vice president Mitchell Davis, and eGullet founder Steven A. Shaw. And while they expected to find great restaurants in great hotels in sought-after travel destinations, they were surprised to find the same in unexpected places such as Memphis and Laguna Beach, California.

If you want to see for yourself whether the Forbes poll was right, you’ll have plenty of opportunity in June. Chez Philippe will host a “Taste of Greece” dinner on Thursday, June 21st. The five-course menu will feature upscale twists on traditional and well-known Greek dishes such as mousaka, eggplant casserole, and baklava. Price for the dinner, which begins at 6 p.m., is $65 per person plus tax and gratuity. For reservations, call 529-4199.

On Friday, June 22nd, Capriccio Grill will host a Trinchero wine dinner, which will feature six courses that are paired with wines from Trinchero Family Estates. Price for the dinner and tasting, which begins at 6 p.m., is $85 per person plus tax and gratuity. For reservations, call 529-4199.

The Peabody, 149 Union (529-4000)

Mark your calendar for Bravo Caliente, a wine-tasting fund-raiser for the Greater Memphis Arts Council’s Bravo Memphis program, which is designed to introduce a younger crowd to Memphis arts.

The event, scheduled for Thursday, June 21st, from 6 to 8 p.m. on the Pembroke Square rooftop, will feature wines from south of the border. There will also be Latin music and dance as well as food from downtown restaurants.

Tickets for Bravo Caliente are $25 per person or $40 per couple.

www.memphisartscouncil.org

If you want to splurge on a really good bottle of Scotch — the aged-50-years kind of “really good” — head to Busters Liquors and Wines and be ready to spend roughly the cost of a small, used car. A bottle of Balvenie Cask 191 is the only Scotch whisky of its kind in Memphis and one of very few available in the U.S. But it will set you back $7,500. If you want good Scotch but can’t come up with that kind of cash, try the 10- to 30-year-old Balvenie selections available at Busters. They’ll run you about $41 to $500.

Busters Liquors and Wines, 191 S. Highland (458-0929)

Erling Jensen has hired a new chef de cuisine to replace his protégé Justin Young, who has left to take a job as executive chef for Kraft Foods. It’s “one of those 9-to-5 jobs where you make a million dollars a year,” Jensen says. According to Young, he made the move to be able to spend more time with his family.

In Young’s place is Karen Noriega. Noriega worked for Jensen at his current restaurant as well as at the short-lived but fondly remembered EJ’s Brasserie before heading to Koto, Jensen’s joint venture with Jimmy Ishii, which was replaced by Bari. Jensen says that Noriega will certainly put her mark on some of the dishes and that he typically gives his chefs a fairly free hand — one free hand, anyway.

Check out Noriega’s style at the restaurant’s Friday-night dinner series, offering five wines and four courses for $75 plus tax and gratuity.

Erling Jensen, 1044 S. Yates (763-3700)

River Oaks Restaurant has added a chef’s table to its kitchen to give guests the opportunity to dine in close proximity to executive chef Ben Vaughn. Seating at the chef’s table is available Tuesday through Saturday with the option of a six-course tasting menu or a grand menu with 12 courses. Wine pairings are available upon request. Seating is limited and reservations are required.

River Oaks Restaurant, 5871 Poplar (683-9305)

Tags Dining Guide, Food, restaurant, Review

Food & Wine Food & Drink

Open and Shut Cases

Post author By Simone Wilson
Post date June 7, 2007

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Pearl’s Oyster House opened about a month ago at 299 S. Main in a space that used to be a tattoo shop.

The idea was to import a bit of coastal Florida to Memphis, according to Pearl’s owner Ray Porter. “A lot of people who live in Memphis frequently travel to the Destin beaches and are familiar with the popular seafood restaurants there,” Porter says. “With Pearl’s, I wanted to bring some of that atmosphere to Memphis.”

On South Main, the coastal atmosphere translates into a laid-back restaurant that offers two bars, a patio in the back, a room for private events, live music on Friday and Saturday nights, and Cajun-influenced fare. However, Porter wants to make sure people don’t mistake his oyster house for a Cajun restaurant. “We don’t want to be a Cajun restaurant,” he says. “But a lot of the dishes from the Florida Panhandle are Cajun-influenced, and we want to re-create that experience in our food.”

Kelly Miller (most recently of PF Chang’s China Bistro) and Steve Hornecker (formerly of Owen Brennan’s) are in charge of Pearl’s kitchen and produce straightforward, popular seafood dishes. Appetizers include boiled Gulf shrimp, Louisiana crab cakes, shrimp and grits, crab claws and crawfish tails. Oysters are prepared eight ways (from raw to Rockefeller) and range in price from $4.95 to $9.50 for a half-dozen. Also on the menu are Louisiana seafood gumbo, shrimp and crawfish étouffée, five different po-boy sandwiches, and seafood entrées featuring trout, salmon, catfish, lobster, and more.

Pearl’s opens at 11 a.m. Monday through Saturday. It is closed on Sundays.

Pearl’s Oyster House, 299 S. Main (522-9070)

Marena’s Gerani on Overton Park Avenue is open for business.

Rumors about the closing of the neighborhood restaurant have been circulating since the beginning of the year, but Mortez Gerani, Marena’s owner, says the restaurant will stay open at least until the end of the year. “Yes, I have heard that people say our restaurant is closed and that’s not very good for business,” Gerani says. “Marena’s is open.”

In early 2000, Gerani took over the restaurant from Rena and Jack Franklin who had operated the eatery for 10 years, serving Mediterranean-influenced cuisine. Gerani maintained that focus and is planning to open another restaurant in East Memphis on Brookhaven Circle (next to the Windjammer Restaurant and Lounge) before the year is over. Gerani isn’t sure what’s going to happen with Marena’s after the new place opens.

The East Memphis restaurant will feature a downstairs bar and casual dining area called Marciano, which will offer small plates of northern Italian and Mediterranean food. An upstairs fine-dining spot called Gerani Restaurant will offer the same fare.

Marena’s Gerani serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5:45 to 9:30 p.m.

Marena’s Gerani, 1545 Overton Park Avenue (278-9774)

Gary Garland’s restaurant Garland’s on Brookhaven Circle closed in early May and is now up for grabs: real estate, equipment, pots and pans — the whole shebang for $500,000.

Garland, whose primary business is real estate, has always been drawn to the downtown area but was coaxed to East Memphis by the late Indian/French chef Raji Jallepalli, who was opening a new restaurant in Midtown. “When Raji offered us her place out east five-and-a-half years ago, we felt it was a great opportunity, and it was,” Garland says. “But now that I’m involved as managing partner at Spindini on South Main, I have the best of both worlds: a great restaurant downtown.”

Garland doesn’t foresee moving Garland’s downtown. Garland’s executive chef Michael Grogan is now the pastry chef at Erling Jensen.

It appears that Interim in East Memphis won’t be as short-lived as owner Fred Carl originally suggested when the restaurant rose out of the former Wally Joe earlier this year. Carl’s intentions have shifted from wanting to sell the restaurant to finding partners for the business.

In fact, Interim, together with Erling Jensen, Lucchesi’s, Busters, and several corporate sponsors, will be part of the “Taste of East,” Blue Streak’s third annual wine tasting and silent auction benefiting the Jubilee Schools of Memphis. Blue Streak is a local nonprofit organization that raises money to send inner-city kids to Catholic schools.

“Taste of East” is Friday, June 9th, at 6 p.m. at Regions Bank (6200 Poplar). Tickets are $50. For more information and to order tickets visit www.bssf.net or call 326-0691.

Brooks Museum members have spoken, and they want more time. Starting June 7th, the museum and the Brushmark will offer extended hours on Thursdays. The restaurant as well as the museum will then be open until 8 p.m. every Thursday.

“We’re really just going with the flow,” says Brushmark’s executive chef Wally Joe. “I don’t think the Brushmark has ever offered dinner [beyond special events], so we’re testing the water.” Because of the rather unusual schedule, Joe plans to have a new menu every week to reflect seasonal foods.

The Brushmark 1934 Poplar (544-6225)

Tags Louisianna, Pearl's Oyster House, restaurant, Review, Seafood

Food & Wine Food & Drink

Career Choices

Post author By Simone Wilson
Post date April 26, 2007

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

If your family comes from a country on the Balkan Peninsula, chances are you ate your fair share of baklava when growing up. Paula Pulido did.

Pulido, whose love for baklava was fostered by her Macedonian grandfather, will soon be offering up to everybody in Memphis their own fair share of this traditional Middle Eastern treat when she opens Sweet Desserterie in Cooper-Young this summer.

Pulido was working in pharmaceutical and medical sales before she decided to turn her passion into her profession. “This has been a dream of mine for a long time,” Pulido says. “I felt that Memphis was ready for a dessert restaurant and that it was time for me to open my own place.”

Sweet Desserterie will occupy part of the old flea-market space on Cooper next door to Burke’s Book Store.

The restaurant industry is almost as much a part of Pulido’s heritage as baklava. Her grandfather owned several restaurants in Ann Arbor, Michigan, and her father owned restaurants in Lansing and Detroit before working as a rocket scientist for NASA in Huntsville, Alabama. “My dad enjoyed the restaurant business, but he thought it was too much work. So not too long after he graduated from college, he took the job with NASA,” Pulido says.

Pulido’s kitchen skills are mostly self-taught and come from observing and working alongside family members and studying countless books. Two years ago, she tested the waters by starting the European Oven, a catering business. Around the same time, she took classes at the now-defunct Memphis Culinary Academy and had the chance to talk about her plans with Jose Gutierrez, chef and owner of Encore.

“Talking to Jose has had a great impact on me,” Pulido says. “He never looked down on me, and he had a lot of great advice. I told him once that my baklava was famous around Memphis and that I wanted him to try it,” she recalls. “He said that he had no use for phyllo [dough] in his kitchen. I made him some anyway, and he loved it.”

Pulido describes Sweet Desserterie as a “dessert-centric” restaurant or a European-style dessert bistro. In addition to baklava, it will offer warm fudge truffle cake, brioche bread pudding, crepes with brandied fruit, and freshly baked popovers, plus there will be an espresso bar and desserts to-go. Pulido is also planning to include a “small bite” menu and a full bar with an extensive wine list and martini menu.

Sweet Desserterie, 938 S. Cooper (726-4300) www.sweetdesserterie.com

Dan Levin, a Boston native, moved to Memphis from Atlanta four years ago. The former software engineer liked Memphis so much he decided to start his second career here once he retired.

“I knew I wanted to have my own business and thought a coffee shop would be a great idea,” Levin explains. Because he didn’t want to compete with the established coffee shops in Midtown, Levin started looking west and settled on the space at 153 S. Main that was once occupied by Viking Culinary Institute. He plans to open Blues City Pastry in May.

While Levin has no experience in the restaurant business, his employees do. “I just put an ad in the paper and got lucky,” he says. Teresa “Terry” Denton-Johns, Blues City’s executive pastry chef, has 15 years of experience, working mostly in Las Vegas, including at the Stratosphere Hotel and Casino and the Mandalay Bay Hotel and Casino. Also on board is Carol Whitemore, a returning Memphis native who most recently started her own gourmet chocolate business in Walkertown, North Carolina. Whitemore will be responsible for everything chocolate at the pastry shop, from truffles to miniature chocolate pyramids.

Plans for Blues City Pastry include a Memphis-themed menu — “Mississippi Mud Cake” and chocolate Elvises — and guests at the 50-seat coffee shop will be able to watch the pastry chef work behind a glass wall.

The coffee shop will open at 6:30 a.m. during the week, 9 a.m. on Saturdays, and noon on Sundays.

Blues City Pastry, 153 S. Main (576-0010) www.bluescitypastry.com

Together, Jon Sharman and Rodney Bryant have almost 20 years of restaurant experience. After several discussions about their dream restaurant, Sharman and Bryant began to take the idea more seriously last fall. They found a building in Cordova that matched their expectations and went to work. In March, they opened Assaggio, an upscale Italian restaurant at Germantown Parkway and Macon Station. The menu includes saltimbocca, chicken Marsala, Neapolitan pork steak, and a “create your own” pasta option. The wine list offers about 20 choices, and they’ll take requests to stock more wines and liquors.

Assaggio is open for dinner Monday through Friday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 5 to 11 p.m.

Assaggio, 8100 Macon Station (752-0056) www.assaggioonline.com

Tags Assaggio, Blues City Pastry, Food, restaurant, Review, Sweet Desserterie

Food & Wine Food & Drink

Sticking His Neck Out

Post author By Simone Wilson
Post date April 5, 2007

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

It’s déjà vu all over again. In the midst of transforming the former Holiday Ham store on South Main into his latest venture, Circa by John Bragg, chef/owner/entrepreneur John Bragg is busy preparing to cater an event. It’s the same scene from almost a year ago — down to the catering job and a hard-to-pin-down Bragg, who was then transforming the former Cockeyed Camel at Poplar Avenue and I-240 into River Oaks by John Bragg.

The “John Bragg” part of River Oaks lasted about six months. “When you open a new place and it takes off like that and is instantly successful, it’s like winning the lottery, with all the good and the bad stuff that comes with the jackpot,” Bragg says. “I was part-owner of River Oaks, and my partners and I didn’t see eye-to-eye on some issues, so we decided to part.”

Bragg, who attended the Cordon Bleu in Paris and has worked for several well-known local chefs such as Karen Carrier, Erling Jensen, and Gene Bjorklund, spent eight years as a CPA in the corporate sector. After he left River Oaks, some people thought he might have returned to accounting. But instead, Bragg, who had transformed the well-worn vegetarian-friendly La Montagne into a more upscale eatery in 2004, decided to put to good use what he had learned from his two restaurant solos and his work as an accountant.

“The people I worked with as an accountant were mostly entrepreneurs,” Bragg says. “I realized that all of these people had stuck their neck out at one point or another. There’s always a risk, but you’ve got to be willing to stick your neck out every once in a while if you want to have a successful business.”

By that measure, Bragg warmed slowly to the idea of risk. With La Montagne, he kept the name, brushed up the interior, stayed in a modest neighborhood, and tested the waters with his cooking skills.

“I knew I had a good product if people from Germantown were willing to drive to Park and Highland to eat my food,” Bragg says. “They had so many opportunities to stop and eat a fabulous meal at Fleming’s, Ruth’s Chris, the Grove Grill, you name it. But instead, they drove all the way to eat at my restaurant. I just needed a better location.”

So Bragg stuck his neck out a little further, gathered investors, and opened River Oaks. Much more effort went into this restaurant, but passionate chefs tend to be passionate about every little detail in a restaurant — something some partnerships can’t withstand.

This time, Bragg is ready to stick his neck out as far as it will reach. Circa is all Bragg — food, design, money, name, concept. “My experience with La Montagne and River Oaks inspired me,” Bragg says. “What I learned was that if I put my mind and the right amount of money on a problem, I can come up with a great answer.”

With Circa, Bragg wants to “provide a culinary taste adventure centered on the freshest food ingredients and a very interesting, welcoming, and sociable atmosphere,” Braggs explains. “It’s not just the need for nice ambience or good food that I want to satisfy. When people leave Circa, I want all their bells ringing.”

Circa, for Bragg, is not only the restaurant’s name but something that can be developed into a brand, starting with an easily recognizable logo and an association with time. For the restaurant’s interior, he hired the internationally known architecture and design firm 3SIX0, based in Providence, Rhode Island. The design for Circa is a system of screen walls that will create patterned areas for diners and keep the overall feel of the restaurant open and airy. There will be a private dining room near the kitchen and a back-lit bar in front.

The menu is modern American: no surprises, nothing fussy. Steaks, chops, and fish dominate the entrée selections, and some of Bragg’s signature appetizers, such as crawfish beignets and wild-mushroom and goat-cheese crepes, will be available as will as an assortment of artisan meats and cheeses. Desserts range from the classic (sachertorte and Gateau Opera) to the simple (lemon and berry tarts). The restaurant is scheduled to open in late April or early May and will start out with dinner daily from 5 to 11:30 p.m. and lunch Monday through Friday, starting at 11 a.m.

Circa by John Bragg, 119 S. Main (522-1488)

Tags Circa, opening, preview, restaurant

Food & Wine Food & Drink

Embedded Diner

Post author By Greg Graber
Post date March 22, 2007

CREDIT: Greg Cravens

A few weeks ago, I was watching a local station’s 10 o’clock newscast when I saw a story that made me stand up and cheer with sheer joy. I was so loud in my state of ecstasy that I woke up my wife Holly, who was asleep on the sofa next to me. “What, did the Grizzlies finally win a game?” she asked. “No, something much bigger,” I replied. According to the report, a Memphis man named William Arnold was thrown out of a Waffle House restaurant in Southaven for talking too loudly on his cellphone.

Mr. Arnold, judging from your brief appearance and the few words you muttered on that night’s newscast, you seem like a decent man. Pleading your case to the camera, you said that you were only making a quick call to check on your mother. You seemed sincere. However, I have to admit that I do not feel sorry for you. In fact, I am glad they asked you to leave the Waffle House for your lack of civility. I know your type, Mr. Arnold. Do I ever.

Last year, my wife and I bought a great old house. We got a wonderful deal, but the kitchen had to be gutted and totally rebuilt. Instead of paying a contractor to do it in a couple of weeks, we decided to subcontract the job. While this approach has been cheaper, it’s also taken a lot longer than expected. What this means is that we’ve basically been without a kitchen for the past six months. What this means, too, is that we’ve eaten out almost every night for 180 days. That last sentence bears repeating: We’ve eaten out almost every night for 180 days.

In that time, I’ve come to see myself as an embedded diner of sorts. I can report that even the best meals, when eaten over and over again, can grow tiresome, and that the wait staff, no matter how friendly, gets sick of seeing you a couple times a week. But perhaps most significantly is how astoundingly rude some of the patrons can be. This is not the majority of patrons; it only seems that way given the general lack of manners and wealth of jackassery of those obnoxious few.

For instance, sitting in Huey’s Midtown I saw the strangest thing, and it left me with the impression that folks just don’t talk to each other like they used to. In a booth behind us, a man was with his girlfriend. They were a nice, clean-cut, respectable-looking young couple. Initially, he was on his cellphone having a conversation while she sat there looking bored and sad and ignored. As soon as he got off his phone, she picked hers up and started talking to someone. Now it was his turn to look sad, bored, and ignored. As soon as she ended her conversation, he picked up his phone and called someone. This went on and on and on. They took turns, volleying back and forth. I don’t think they actually spoke one word to each other the entire duration of their meal. It was surreal, almost like a Fellini film. In retrospect, I think one of them should have stayed at home, and the other should have gone to the restaurant. At least that way, they would have spoken to each other.

On another evening, I watched as a little boy took all of the sugar packets out of the ramekin on the table. He lined them up neatly, all nice and color-coded. Next, he commenced licking each and every one of them in an orderly, systematic way. Apparently, this kid has some method to his madness. He was concentrating on what he was doing, in “the zone,” if you will, so you can understand his frustration when his mother interrupted his focus and told him, in a very calm and friendly voice, to stop. He freaked out and pushed all the little packets off the table and down to the floor. Mommy picked them up and put them back in the ramekin like nothing happened. Needless to say, when dining out now, I take my coffee black.

During my experiment of culinary grandeur, I also witnessed a fair share of individuals having illicit affairs. Who needs Desperate Housewives when you can see the real thing? I saw a professor having a heated argument with his student. The student was appalled that he didn’t get a higher grade in his class since they were “sleeping together and everything.” Another of my favorites was the one I refer to as “the doctor and his lady.” She complained about being second fiddle to the surgeon’s wife. Anytime he tried to inject anything about himself into the conversation, she would erupt. For instance, he would say something about the stresses and daily grind of being a cardiovascular surgeon, and she would cut him off mid-sentence and retort with something like, “Do you think it is easy to have sex with you? Well, you are wrong.” It was beyond comical. The highlight of the conversation was when he tried to interrupt, saying, “That is irrelevant.” At that point, the gold-digging, silicone-filled, plastic-looking shallow mistress gave the heart-transplant surgeon a 15-minute education on how “irrelevant” is not a word, and he should learn to speak better to avoid sounding ignorant. It was priceless! One of the funniest things I have ever heard.

During our six-month, dining-out opus, Holly and I invented a coping mechanism to help us survive. We referred to it as the “Button and Dial.” If someone was annoying us and we wanted to put him or her out of their misery, we had an imaginary button on the table we would hit. We imagined that when the button was pressed, a laser beam would come out from the ceiling and zap this insufferable person. It would be instant annihilation, no suffering. If someone was REALLY annoying, we would slowly turn an imaginary dial. It would zap him or her in a long, slow, agonizing manner. Much suffering was involved. He or she would slowly turn red, and you could see their skeleton and eyes light up, like a cartoon. It lasted for about 30 seconds. It was brutal, but some people deserved this.

I have had the opportunity to travel quite a bit throughout this country. And at the risk of sounding like I am trying to suck up to the restaurant community to get a free meal or two, I must say that for a town its size, Memphis has some wonderful restaurants and a wide selection of choices for even the most discriminating of palates. The vast majority of our meals were great, and my family started some dining traditions I hope we will continue when our kitchen renovation is finished.

Despite my grumblings, much positive came from my social experiment. After being embedded frontline in these eateries for six months, I have a newfound respect for the wait staff of this city. I can’t tell you how many times I saw a patron ask a waiter, “Will I like this?” And I can’t tell you how many times I wished the waiter would have said, “How the hell should I know what you like, lady?” But I never did hear this reply. Nor did I ever see a waiter mistreat a customer. Most were happy, friendly, and personable folks. In fact, I highly recommend that you dine out frequently and enjoy our city’s high-quality eating establishments. My only advice to you is not to do it (or anything else) for six months straight.

Greg Graber, a native Memphian, is a freelance writer and educator. His “Greg Graber Growl” column appeared on the Grizzlies’ NBA Web site for three years, and he was named “Best Self-Promoter” by the Flyer staff in the 2001 Best of Memphis issue. You can contact him at ggraber.blogspot.com.

Tags Huey's, Memphis, restaurant, Review