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We Saw You: What I Had for Dinner at Friends and Family Night at Dory

I remember driving to Clarksdale, Mississippi, years ago to dine at the Madidi restaurant, because my old friend, David Krog, was executive chef.

He came into the dining room and asked me what I wanted to order. I said, “A steak, I guess.” He said, “No, you’re not. You’re going to get my lamb.”

Well, I hated lamb. But I did what he said. And it was over-the-top delicious. I can now eat lamb.

Well, Krog did it again last night. I’m not a big fan of scallops. But after trying his “Scallops and Mussels” at Dory, I’m a big fan of scallops. At least Krog’s scallops. The scallops come with herb risotto with citrus beurre blanc.

Krog and his wife, Amanda, are owners of Dory, where David is executive chef. They’ve just changed their menu from a tasting menu to a la carte. I visited the restaurant at a friends and family night August 2nd, before the menu change opens to the public tonight, August 3rd. Food people, including River Oaks chef Jose Gutierrez and his wife, Colleen DePete, were among the diners.

David and Amanda Krog at Dory friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Jose Gutierrez and Colleen DePete at Dory friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Be and Ali Manning at Dory friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Lee Anna and Jordan Beatty at Dory friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Savannah Lepisto, Gillian Lepisto, and Zach Thomason at Dory friends and family night (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Well, the food, in addition to the scallops, was phenomenal.

Just so you know what to expect from the first Dory a la carte menu, here’s what my sister and I ordered:

“Heirloom Tomatoes” — Tomato broth, tarragon, olive oil.

“Foie Gras” (and you get a lot of it.)

“Black Oyster Mushrooms” — Masa, day cheese, fried shallot, fermented onion powder.

“Red Fish” — saffron brodo, beans, garlic scape mostardo.

Red Fish at Dory friends and family dinner (Credit: Michael Donahue)

And I had to have Krog’s incredible Parker House rolls. I could eat those all day long.

Finally, we tried both the desserts on the menu: “Aerated Lemon Curd” — vanilla sponge, almond lace — and “Sweet Corn Mousse” — corn mousse, corn caramel, masa tuile, and masa sugar. That was so good I had to order another one.

Aerated Lemon Curd at Dory friends and family dinner (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Dory sous chef Cobi Pollan created the dessert, which uses all the parts of corn except the husks. Nick Zorbino the restaurant’s bar and beverage manager, used the husks to create a spirit-free cocktail called “Medieval Times.” The husks are charred over a yakitori grill and the burnt husks turn into syrup using raw sugar.

Sweet Corn Mousse at Dory friends and family dinner (Credit: Michael Donahue)

I did go through a pot, and a little more of another one, of Dr. Bean’s French Press coffee. Regular. And I still slept like a baby.

Dory is at 716 West Brookhaven Circle, (901) 310-4290. Walk-ins welcome. Reservations encouraged because it’s a small space.

Amanda Krog and her cousin, Alexis Grace, at Dory friends and family dinner (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Alex Franks at Dory friends and family dinner (Credit: Michael Donahue)
Glenn David Bland at Dory friends and family dinner (Credit: Michael Donahue)
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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Dessert, Anyone?

For those who eat too much at restaurants and, heaven forbid, are too stuffed to look at the dessert menu, here are some that restaurants offer, along with fall specials.

Dory: “The desserts at Dory are in the spirit of our childhoods,” says executive chef/co-owner Dave Krog. “Our current six-course dessert is aerated peanut butter mousse, chocolate sponge, salted caramel, blackberry, and peanut dust.”

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen: “The fall pot de crème will be killer,” says general manager/beverage director Nick Talarico. “Spiced apples with an oat and walnut crumble. It’s like a crème brûlée and vanilla pudding.”

Kinfolk restaurant: “Bourbon pecan crème brûlée,” says chef/owner Cole Jeanes. “We toast the pecans before soaking them in heavy cream with a little orange zest. They steep overnight and, instead of granulated sugar, I use brown sugar. It’s rich, nutty, and super smooth. With a crunchy brûlée topped with candied pecans, there’s a great contrast in textures. Add a little smoked salt for another layer of flavor.”

Las Tortugas: “We do a piña colada flan, a traditional caramel flan that cooks in a water bath in the oven,” says chef/manager Jonathan Magallanes. “We then add roasted and fresh pineapple along with coconut shavings and crushed cashews, Mexican fresh cream, and powdered sugar.”

Acre: “I had an apple custard cake on the menu years ago,” says executive chef Andrew Adams. “The center was soft and custardy with bits of apples, and the top was a little crunchy and caramelized. This fall, I switched out the all-purpose flour with buckwheat. I steam the cake for the first 30 minutes and then put it in a high oven. I made the apples smaller, added cinnamon and cardamom and an oat top. The buckwheat adds a nutty flavor.”

The Beauty Shop Restaurant: Chef/owner Karen Carrier features an array of fall desserts — apple-caramel-almond babka from Love Bread Co., pistachio and fig babka, chocolate meringue pie, pecan pie with scoop of sweet potato gelato, lemon zest-sugar-butter crepe with a scoop of cinnamon Mexican chocolate chili gelato, and a dark chocolate crepe with pumpkin pie gelato.

Salt|Soy: “Chocolate miso chess pie with a sesame crust, Suntory Toki whipped cream, and sesame brittle,” says chef/owner Nick Scott. “It’s our East-meets-West take on chess pie. We started running it last fall and it became our house dessert.”

River Oaks Restaurant: “A lemon mousse with raspberries and caramelized whipped cream,” says general manager Colleen DePete. Another dessert: Chef/owner José Gutierrez will add “a poached pear with homemade vanilla ice cream, whipped cream, and dark chocolate ganache garnished with thin cookies tuile.”

Southern Social: “Praline hazelnut cheesecake with caramelized hazelnuts and a warm chocolate sauce,” says pastry chef Franck Oysel.

117 Prime: “Pumpkin Delight Ooey Gooey Bars,” says chef/owner Ryan Trimm. “A rich, buttery cake bottom with a pumpkin spice cream cheese marbled custard baked to perfection.”

Kelly English restaurants: “At Pantà, we’re offering a decadent chocolate hazelnut cup topped with raspberry Chantilly,” says pastry chef Inga Theeke. “Look for that to change to a pumpkin and chai combination later this month. We’ve also played with the presentation of our Mel i Mató and now offer Mel i Cannoli. Mel i Mató is a traditional Catalan dessert that features a loose cheese similar to ricotta covered in honey. We top our house-made ricotta with Bee 901 honey and toasted pistachios. All tucked inside a Neules cone, a Catalan cookie.”

Fino’s From the Hill: “Apple spice bars will be in the case later this week, and ghost meringues will make their appearance later this month.”

The Second Line: “Seasonal desserts are changing to a chocolate pecan pie and caramel apple cheesecake.”

Restaurant Iris: “Desserts here are definitely influenced by the season. Look for a pear tarte Tatin and a pumpkin cheesecake over gluten-free spice cake, among others.”

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Julia Child Birthday Tribute Dinner at River Oaks

In 1992, Julia Child visited the Peabody Hotel’s flagship restaurant Chez Philippe, for a meal prepared by master chef José Gutierrez, now of the French-American bistro River Oaks in East Memphis.

“She did more for French cuisine than all other chefs combined,” Gutierrez says, recalling his time with the larger-than-life chef, author, and TV personality who singlehandedly launched an American food revolution. “French cooking had been considered too complicated. Too difficult. But she made it accessible to everyone,” Gutierrez says.

The Peabody menu included a warm and cold salad with basil dressing, brandade of smoked trout with grilled polenta, and heart of beef tenderloin with a Madeira- and black truffle-laden sauce perigeux, a pairing Child prized. For dessert Gutierrez served chocolate Napoleon with raspberries and crème fraiche.

“She adored the food,” Gutierrez recalls, and even though each course was paired with wine, the eccentric bon vivant kept asking for martinis. “She was one of the most spectacular, kind, giving people I ever met,” he says.  

When Child celebrated her 82nd birthday in Los Angeles in 1994, Gutierrez was one of several chefs invited to cook for the doyenne of French-American cuisine. On Friday, August 15th, to celebrate the 20th anniversary of that birthday meal, River Oaks will offer a special three-course menu centered around one of Child’s favorite dishes, Boeuf Bourguignon, which will be accompanied by Salade Lyonnaise and Reine de Saba cake.

“This is not food for the intellect,” Gutierrez says, sounding very much like the chef he’s honoring, “it is food for the soul.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Tchin-Tchin!

Arguably Memphis’ first celebrity chef, French native José Gutierrez was a progenitor of fine dining when this barbecue town was barely a blip on the culinary radar. He was named one of the country’s best new chefs by Food & Wine in 1990 and received the eminent title of Maître Cuisinier de France in 2011. He held the reins at Chez Philippe for 22 years before opening his own downtown restaurant, Encore, in 2005, then heading to River Oaks in East Memphis in 2009. As he celebrates his 30th anniversary in Memphis and his first anniversary as owner of River Oaks, Gutierrez sits down to talk about what he’s learned.

Were you always interested in working with food?

I wanted to be a fashion designer first. I don’t know why. I just wanted the creativity part of it. But they rejected me, so I went to school to learn to be a maitre d’ or a chef. After two years, you have to decide whether you want to be a chef or a waiter. My English was so bad I couldn’t possibly be a waiter, so I found myself in the kitchen cooking instead. Now I realize that food has the same [creativity] as couture, even better because you can see, smell, touch, and taste it. It’s four dimensions.

What is your creative process like?

I worked under Chef Roger Petit [at Hotel de France], and he told me to take one item and, until I’d come up with an idea for how to transform it, I wasn’t allowed to think about anything else. If I daydreamed, that’s what I had to think about. I did that for the first 10 years. The good news is, you go to the store and you see a carrot and immediately you’ve got 15 recipes because your creative muscle is always going. The bad thing is, you become socially awkward. I do that less now. Now, I take a blank piece of paper and I design a plate and I start putting things together. I see the colors and the architecture of it.

In your 30 years in Memphis, how has your culinary vision changed?

When I was at Chez Philippe, my role was to put Chez Philippe on the map in the United States. To do that, you have to work up the press and cater to sensation and the avant-garde. The food was limiting in that sense. It was only for a few. The press loved it, but it’s not necessarily what people want to eat. The reason I wanted to open [my own] restaurant is that I don’t want people to come see me once every six months, birthdays, and anniversaries. I want people who come three or four times a week.

Is that when you moved more toward what many have termed “French with a twist”? Can you explain what that means?

I felt like my first menu wasn’t really understood. Beef sweetbreads with truffle mousse. Squab with chanterelles. I realized I was talking Greek to people. The locals said, “José, you need to get acquainted with Southern food.” In the ’90s, that’s when I started doing Southern nouvelle cuisine. I took Southern cuisine and mixed it with Italian, French, and Spanish, and it was things like hushpuppies with shrimp Provençal, catfish bourride, turnip green ravioli with bobwhite quail à la king. It’s very French in principle, but we just gave attention to Southern cuisine.

Where do you see yourself in the growing trend of locally and ethically sourced foods?

I always look for the best product no matter what. In the old days, it was a matter of taste. Now it’s a matter of taste and health. We need to know what the farmer or the big company gives to the chickens to eat or what they inject their beef with. We need to take back our food supply in this country. It’s being taken over by big business. It’s not okay. We are digging our graves with our teeth. Food has to be made for the body (for health), for the soul, and for the intellect. You need all three. It’s a balance you need to create in your life. If you just do the soul food, you’ll never be healthy. If you just cook for the intellect, you’re not healthy, you’ve got no soul!

The thought of purely intellectual food doesn’t sound very enticing.

Is it interesting to cook something with liquid nitrogen? Yes, it’s interesting. It’s cute. Is it effective? No. Do you want to do that every single day? Absolutely not.

Do you ever feel like you’re all tapped out of French twists on Southern food?

No. I’ve barely scratched the surface. People’s tastes are evolving, changing. I change with them. Chefs think they are creators, artists, and we are to a certain degree, but the first thing we are is a servant of the people. It’s not about us; it’s about them.

Celebrate with Chef José at one of two wine dinners at River Oaks (5871 Poplar) on Wednesday, Oct. 17th, and Wednesday, Oct. 24th. Both dinners begin at 6:30 p.m. and cost $75. To make your reservations, call 683-9305.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Just Do It

On Thursday, April 19th, River Oaks executive chef Ben Vaughn teams up with local chefs for “Ben and Friends Cook for the Cure. Among those “friends” are Erling Jensen and Justin Young (Erling Jensen), Stephen Hassinger (The Inn at Hunt Phelan), Jason Severs (Bari Ristorante), Antony Field (Timbeaux’s on the Square), Jackson Kramer (Interim), and Clay Lichterman (Grille 83).

The Cook for the Cure dinner raises money and awareness for the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation. Launched in 2001, Cook for the Cure, a partnership between KitchenAid and the Komen Foundation, has raised more than $3 million to help the fight against breast cancer. For Vaughn, this isn’t just about bringing the event to the Mid-South. It’s also a meaningful way to mark River Oaks’ first anniversary. Tickets for the dinner are $150, and all proceeds will benefit the Memphis affiliate of the Komen Foundation.

For more information and reservations, call River Oaks.

River Oaks, 5871 Poplar (683-9305)

For the second of its First Friday Wine Tasting Series, on Friday, April 13th, at 6:30 p.m., Lulu Grille is offering a “Big Valley”-themed menu and wines from Sonoma County. The three-course meal features smoked- salmon canapés, goat-cheese and chive tartlets, and Serrano ham-wrapped asparagus as appetizers paired with Gloria Ferrer Brut (Sonoma County NV). Grilled mahi filet, roasted pheasant breast, and grilled rack of lamb are the entrée choices, each paired with a different wine. The dinner will be rounded out with imported cheeses and fruit to be paired with Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County 2004). Scott DeLamere is in charge of the food at Lulu Grille and also designed the menu for the dinner; John Adams with Star Distributors selected the wines.

Cost for the dinner on April 13th is $55 per person plus tax and gratuity. Dates for the next Friday Wine Tasting are May 4th and June 1st.

Lulu Grille, 565 Erin (763-3677)

Lynne Rossetto Kasper, host of the public-radio series The Splendid Table, will be at Davis-Kidd Booksellers to celebrate WKNO’s 35th Birthday Bash on Friday, April 13th. Rossetto Kasper has written for The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Bon Appétit, among other publications, and was named one of the 12 best cooking teachers in America by the James Beard Foundation. The Splendid Table, her first book, is the only book to receive Cookbook of the Year awards from both Julia Child/IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) and the James Beard Foundation. If you miss her at WKNO’s birthday party, you can catch her show on Sunday mornings at 10 on WKNO-FM.

Tickets for the event, which starts at 7 p.m., are $35 and include a complimentary martini from Swig. Dan Gediman, of the public-radio series This I Believe, will be another special guest for the evening. Party guests will receive a 20 percent discount on most items in the store and can enjoy food by Davis-Kidd’s Brontë bistro while mingling and chatting with Rossetto Kasper and Gediman. Tickets can be purchased at Davis-Kidd or by calling 325-6560.

Davis-Kidd Booksellers, 387 Perkins Ext.

(683-9801)

This year, Brooks Uncorked, the museum’s annual celebration of wine, food, and culture, is honoring Spain with Viva España. The event, on Friday, April 13th, at 7 p.m., will feature Spanish wine, food, and dance. Tickets are $100 for Brooks members and $125 for nonmembers (a portion of the ticket price is tax-deductible). To purchase tickets, call 544-6209 or visit www.brooksmuseum.org.

If Spain isn’t your thing, you might want to stop by the Brushmark for lunch to try the restaurant’s new spring menu. Arugula salad with beet “Carpaccio” candied pistachios and creamy goat-cheese dressing, fried green tomato BLT, and root-vegetable tarte Tatin with goat-cheese and black-olive vinaigrette are just a few of the fresh additions.

Memphis Brooks Museum of Art,

1934 Poplar (544-6200)

The Peabody’s Chez Philippe will present a Taste of Thailand dinner on April 19th from 6 to 10 p.m. Chef Reinaldo Alfonso will introduce diners to the five basic flavors of Thai cuisine — spicy, salty, sweet, sour, and bitter — and its Indian and Chinese influences. The five-course menu will feature such dishes as tom kha gai, som tum, pad ga pow, and the popular pad thai. Cost is $65 plus tax and gratuity.

Chez Philippe, 149 Union (529-4188)