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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Best Bets: Cheeseburger Soup at Rizzo’s

Thanks to chef Michael Patrick, you can have your cheeseburger — and drink it, too.

He created his version of Cheeseburger Soup, one of the hot — as in popular and temperature — items at his restaurant, Rizzo’s by Michael Patrick.

“The very first restaurant I worked at, they had a version of this soup there,” Patrick says, adding, “They had pickle and tomato and a little crouton on it, but I decided to make my own version.”

Rizzo’s chef Michael Patrick serves his up cheeseburger soup.

Just about the only thing missing in Patrick’s Cheeseburger Soup is the hamburger bun. “I start out with onions and garlic, and I sweat them out with a little bit of butter. I add a roux with flour. Then I add milk, heavy cream, and we let that thicken up really nice. And then I add Zatarain’s Creole mustard and English mustard — both spicier-type mustards; not your normal [brands]. It’s got a really good kick,” Patrick says. “Zatarain’s has got horseradish in it, which I like.

“Once I add all that, I brown off a bunch of 80/20 ground beef. Then I’ll add that to the mix. Then I’ll add the cheese, which is a cheddar cheese and cheddar jack blend. I let all that come together. And then I add lettuce and tomato at the end. I don’t want to break it up by mixing it up. I fold it in. I’ll dice up the tomatoes and kind of shred the lettuce.”

People refer to it as “a cheeseburger in a cup,” says Patrick. “It tastes like a cheeseburger.”

Patrick, who is from Painesville, Ohio, says he had never heard of Rotel dip before he moved to Memphis. “I noticed it at some people’s house during a football game. Cheeseburger Soup is very similar to Rotel. It’s not nearly as cheesy, but it has some good similarities. So I was telling people: ‘I’m going to make you some Yankee Rotel.’ And all I made was Cheeseburger Soup.”

Rizzo’s also features traditional-style hamburgers on Mondays. “Beer and Burger Night is what we call it.” Describing the Rizzo’s Burger, Patrick says, “I’m always looking for a nice, juicy, kind of dripping-down-my-hand burger. But what makes, I think, my burger unique is the seasoning. I put a little Lawry’s, Worcestershire, shallots.”

And, he says, “There’s something about a burger that’s done on a flat top.We do that here, and it seals in that juiciness of the burger.

“But the Cheeseburger Soup is on the menu all the time,” he adds.

As for the popularity of his Cheeseburger Soup, Patrick says, “It won me Soup Sunday a couple of years.” That’s the annual Youth Villages fundraiser, which just made it under the wire this year before the pandemic shut down fundraisers.

Rizzo’s was closed between March 23rd through June 2nd, Patrick says. It had to shut down again July 24th after a kitchen employee tested positive for the virus. They had the restaurant re-sanitized and will reopen this week.

Patrick has his tables “six feet apart. We have hand sanitizer on every table. As soon as somebody leaves, we break everything down. We temp you when you come in the door. You have to have a mask to enter. These are things we’ve been doing since we got back open June 2nd.”

Patrick wants the public to know what’s going on at Rizzo’s. “Putting those things out there to people, posting about it, kind of solidifies that they know we care and we’re willing to take measures to make the place safe for people.”

And, he says, “If you invite someone into your home, it’s a safe environment. We’re inviting people into our restaurant. So it needs to be a safe environment.”

Rizzo’s by Michael Patrick is located at 92 S. Main; (901) 304-6985.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Chewing Over the Food News of 2015

In looking over 2015, one thing stood out: brand expansion. Aldo’s Pizza Pies, with its swell rooftop patio, and City Market (grab and go!) came to Cooper-Young. Fino’s opened a second restaurant in East Memphis (yay sandwiches!), and Mediterranean mainstay Casablanca returned to Midtown. Both Bedrock Eats & Sweets, the paleo eatery, and the all-vegan Pink Diva Cupcakery and Cuisine got places to call their own.

Justin Fox Burks

Bedrock Eats & Sweets

Ermyias Shiberou, owner of Stickem food truck, opened Blue Nile Ethiopian Kitchen on Madison in Midtown, next to the Bar-B-Q Shop. Stickem’s awesome kabobs are on the menu, and the lentil sandwich is terrific. Reverb Coffee got into the food-truck game, and Relevant Roasters opened its own coffee bar. Tamp & Tap Triad was unveiled in East Memphis.

Justin Fox Burks

Blue Nile Ethiopian Kitchen

Last year, all the action was in Overton Square. This year, one could argue, it’s South Main. The new location of Rizzo’s, after much delay, opened in March. Don’t worry, the Lobster Pronto Pups are still on the menu. The great and always-packed Maciel’s offers downtowners tacos, tortas, and more. South Main Sushi & Grill took over the Grawemeyer’s space, and there’s Ray’z World Famous Dr. Bar-b-que a few blocks north. The hipsteriffic 387 Pantry is a small, curated market with locally sourced goods like Dr. Bean’s coffee and Hanna Farm grits and cornmeal.

Justin Fox Burks

Ray’z World Famous Dr. Bar-b-que

Also new to downtown is the build-your-own tacos and burritos and nachos joint Burrito Blues (mmmm, nachos) and the Cuban and Mexican restaurant Sabrosura (try the Cuban sandwich). Jeff Johnson’s latest venture Agave Maria, with its masterful decor and endless tequila menu, opened on Union. Recommendation: the cheesy mushroom and poblano enchilada. In April, Bass Pro finally opened in the Pyramid. Uncle Buck’s, the underwater-themed restaurant with a bowling alley, offers a little something for everyone. Up top, the Lookout has one of the best views in the city.

Germantown got all the grocery stores. There’s the 1,000,000-square-foot Kroger that opened. (Actually, it’s only 100,000 square feet, but to put it in perspective, the Union Kroger is 36,000 square feet). It has a juice bar and a Corky’s BBQ kiosk. The healthy-food-at-a-discount grocer, Sprouts, after opening Lakeland, introduced its second store in Germantown. Whole Foods opened its second Memphis-area store in Germantown, too. It features a charcuterie cave, a fresh pasta station, made-fresh savory and sweet crepes, and Korean street food from Kei Jei Kitchens. (I think about the steamed bao sliders all the time.) And, in September, there was news, which seems completely unfair depending on your zip code, that the first area Trader Joe’s would open in Germantown sometime in 2016.

Breakfast for dinner? Breakfast for lunch? Breakfast for breakfast? Whenever! Another Broken Egg, a chain, opened in East Memphis. Order one of their scrambled skillets and their beignet biscuits and you’ll feel like you’ve been hit by a bus, but in the best way possible. Also in the breakfast-whenever game is the colorful, pancake-centric Staks. You can even make your own pancakes, if you’re so inclined. They also offer soups, salads, and sandwiches (including the Memphis Hot Brown).

And, and, and … There’s Mac’s Burgers with a menu filled with gourmet mac-and-cheese and burgers. Coffeehouse/gift shop City & State opened on Broad. 3 Angels Diner made way for Maximo’s on Broad. Encore Cafe offers wraps, smoothies, and salads, plus a place for Cozy Corner while it gets its building ready. Crazy Italians is owned by real-live Italians and features a menu of affordable, classic dishes like spaghetti alla carbonara. I Love Juice Bar features juices, smoothies, and essential oil shots. Mardi Gras, in Crosstown, has gotten great word-of-mouth for its Cajun fare. Diners can tour the U.S.A. at Heritage Tavern & Kitchen, which has a menu of regional favorites. Healthy, tastefully done meals are Julles Posh Food‘s focus. Ditto for LYFE Kitchen, where there’s no fryer, and it’s not missed at all.

Finally, two words: Cheesecake Factory.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Soul Food Restaurant Opening in Rizzo’s Spot

The site of Marie’s Eatery with mock-up of sign

Carl and Marie Bonner are opening a soul food restaurant called Marie’s Eatery in the old Rizzo’s space at 106 G.E. Patterson. 

The tentative date for opening is November 24th. 

According to Carl, the  restaurant is one part of a two-part plan. The couple, who have a background in catering, hope to run a tour company in conjunction with the restaurant. Tourists would be taken to the river for a drink with a view and then to Marie’s for dinner. They would finish the evening on Beale Street. 

The menu features daily specials, like Wednesday’s salmon patties with white rice, cabbage, and a roll or cornbread. Prices hover around $10.

Menu: Marie_s_Eatery_updated__menu.pdf