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Let the Good Times Grill

May means barbecue in Memphis. It’s like something comes over this city. This year we have two whole barbecue festivals on the same weekend: Memphis in May’s World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest and the new SmokeSlam. (How will Memphis eat so much barbecue?) Our food writer Michael Donahue profiled two barbecue joints in his food column this week: Pollard’s Bar-B-Que and Jimbo’s Brickhouse BBQ (see page 25). He rarely ever does a double-feature, but the barbecue got to him, it pulled at him. (How did he eat so much barbecue?) And then the writers at the Flyer simultaneously started craving barbecue — like some sort of supernatural phenomenon — and all they could think about was barbecue, barbecue, barbecue. Or is it barbeque? BBQ? Bar-b-que? Our editors argued; tears were shed. Barbecue was expensed, for the sake of journalism. We had to capitalize on this madness and make a whole barbecue issue. We had no choice; we had to share what we learned. So please read about the barbecue places and dishes that have made us go mad with gluttony. Join us, won’t you?

Arnold’s Smokehouse (Photo: Bruce VanWyngarden)

Arnold’s Smokehouse

Located in the Castalia Heights neighborhood, a few blocks behind the Kellogg’s plant, Arnold’s Smokehouse is off the beaten path, but well worth the effort to find. It’s in a non-pretentious building, hard by some railroad tracks, making it clear Arnold’s isn’t about atmosphere; it’s all about the food. And the food is very good.

The owners are sister and brother Ivy and Shanon Arnold, and they have each created their own extensive menu. Ivy’s is vegan, and features creative smoked ingredients including jackfruit, cauliflower, mushrooms, grilled veggies, tomatoes, greens, pasta, gumbo, and, of course, tofu. Shanon’s menu is more traditional and meat-friendly. Both are stellar and varied, with some ambitious and unexpected offerings. But this story is about barbecue, so we went the more traditional route.

We started with the cauliflower puffs and green beans as sides, and went with the pulled pork sandwich and pulled pork fajitas as our main dishes. Everything was superb. In fact, I’d rank both the sandwich and the fajitas as among the best I’ve eaten in my 30 years here in Barbecue-Ville. Seriously delicious food, y’all.

A little logistical advice: Because of the varied menu, I suspect, our wait time was around 30 minutes after ordering. It wasn’t unpleasant. We chatted with Willie Arnold, the father of the owners, and some of the patrons and watched an episode of Martin, but next time, I’ll probably call in our order ahead of time or use DoorDash. However you do it, you’d be wise to give Arnold’s Smokehouse a try.

Bruce VanWyngarden

2019 East Person Avenue, 901-922-5950

Payne’s BBQ Tacos at Molly’s La Casita (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Payne’s BBQ Tacos at Molly’s La Casita

Most of the other restaurants in this story are devoted to barbecue. Molly’s La Casita is not. It’s a Midtown staple, long known for its hearty Tex-Mex fare, including some of the best refried beans you will ever experience. One of the newest additions to the menus fits into the Memphis barbecue story. It’s a collaboration between two Memphis culinary institutions.

“We bought the restaurant about three years ago,” says Jessica Cornell, owner of Molly’s La Casita. “We were just ordering our pork through one of the vendors. I was like, we’re in Memphis. We have so many barbecue options that are made locally. We should try to do something with a local restaurant. Ron Payne is a regular customer. He comes in here once a week and I approached him and asked him what he thought about us using his barbecue pork for our tacos. He thought it was a great idea. So now that’s what we do. It goes in the pork tacos and our pork tamales.”

The Payne’s Pork Tacos differ from the classic pork tacos only in the protein. The dinner portion is two tacos, served with soft tortilla or crunchy shell, with a sprinkling of onion and cilantro. The shredded, slow cooked pork barbecue elevates the dish way beyond the average taco. It’s a match made on Madison Avenue, which is kind of ironic, given that Molly’s original location was on Lamar Avenue, just around the corner from Payne’s.

“Everyone loves them,” says Cornell. “We sell out of the pork all the time. Every time he [Ron Payne] comes, he has to bring us more pork.”

Chris McCoy

2006 Madison Avenue, 901-726-1873

Eddie “Bossman” Patterson (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Bossman Pit Stop

Eddie “Bossman” Patterson’s logo is “Come Get Lost in the Sauce.” It’s on the back of the T-shirts for his Bossman Pit Stop.

And that’s easy to do. I recently tried one of Patterson’s pork barbecue sandwiches for the first time. There’s so much going on with those delectable flavors. I asked him if it had buffalo sauce in it. He says no. He uses Cattlemen’s barbecue sauce as a base and then adds his own ingredients.

A native of Tunica, Mississippi, who grew up in Memphis, Patterson tells me he learned how to barbecue from his mother and grandmother. He also learned barbecuing when he worked at the old Papa Chuck’s BBQ on Getwell Street. Papa Chuck’s later moved to the Airways location, which Patterson bought a year after the owner died.

The NBA player Antonio Burks gave him his nickname 19 years ago, Patterson says. “He said I was ‘the boss’ in barbecue. He called me ‘The Bossman.’” They both attended Booker T. Washington High School, he says.

Patterson says he barbecues every day. He goes to bed at 4 a.m, takes his grandson to school the next morning, and then at some point starts barbecuing. “I barbecue for eight hours, put it to the side, and let it do its own thing.”

The secret to good barbecue? “Cook it slow in its own juices.”

Patterson, who also does catering for businesses and events and also operates a food truck, says he eats barbecue every day. “I have to test it to make it right.”

His wife, Patricia, isn’t too happy with him not getting enough sleep, Patterson says. “She’s the ‘Bosslady.’”

Michael Donahue

2251 Airways Boulevard, 901-743-5426

BBQ Tofu Nachos at RP Tracks (Photo: Abigail Morici)

BBQ Tofu Nachos at RP Tracks

I’ll be honest with y’all because that’s what journalism is all about: honesty. I wasn’t looking forward to this issue because I don’t eat meat; therefore, I don’t eat barbecue. So I was planning on playing hooky and just not writing anything for this cover story — not because I’m a slacker but because I’m picky (I swear I’m not just saying that to keep my job). But then I remembered that I once heard that RP Tracks had BBQ Tofu Nachos, and I eat tofu and I eat tortilla chips. Have I eaten them together? No, but, hey, I have a job to do.

So I moseyed on down to RP Tracks — which, no, isn’t a barbecue joint, I’ve been informed, but it’s a place where this non-barbecue-eater can eat some barbecue, so deal with it. To my surprise, the menu has quite a few barbecue tofu options — the nachos plus a quesadilla and a sandwich — so I had choices for barbecue which, normally, I don’t. And that was kinda nice (and they have other barbecue meat, but I don’t care about that).

I stuck with the nachos for my visit, and they did not disappoint. They came topped with cheese (good), lettuce (good), jalapenos (I didn’t eat), and sour cream (good). I got the black bean chili on the side because, like I said, I’m picky and just don’t like black bean chili, but my boyfriend does and he gave it a thumbs-up. Now, for the pièce de résistance, the barbecue tofu — the rating? Pretty dang good. Cooked just right — not chewy, not mushy, perfect, dare I say. Since I’ve never had “real” barbecue, I can’t make any comparisons, but the flavor was like barbecue chips, especially when you put it on a tortilla chip, which, duh, makes sense. (That was an embarrassingly late-in-life epiphany for me.)

All in all, with this being my first foray eating barbecue in Memphis, I’d say RP Tracks serves up a great vegetarian/vegan/pescatarian option. Try it. I did. And this picky eater liked it.

— Abigail Morici

3547 Walker Avenue, 901-327-1471

Cozy Corner (Photo: Alex Greene)

Cozy Corner

When I dine at Cozy Corner, my longtime go-to barbecue sandwich joint, I think one thing: savory. While many of the slow-cooked meats around town have flavor profiles leaning more towards a vinegary edge or a sweet edge, I feel that Cozy Corner approaches the great quality recognized by Japanese culture: umami. Yes, there is a very subtle sweetness to their sauce, balanced with an equally subtle touch of vinegar, but those are mere elements in a whole that’s far greater than the sum of its parts.

That earthy, slow-roasted whole comes through in every delectable bite of a Cozy Corner barbecue sandwich, complemented with a bit of slaw, of course. Unlike many joints offering pulled pork, the meat here is thinly sliced, but the difference in texture matters little to this diner. It’s the flavor profile that’s key. And that’s also true of Cozy Corner’s ribs.

Served (of course) with slices of the whitest of white breads, the meat on these ribs practically falls off the bone. Perhaps one key to that is the Chicago-style smoking technique they use, with the coals placed a bit further from the grill. Starting the meat on the lowest rack and then progressively moving upward increases its time in that luscious smoky environment.

Aside from their classic ribs and sandwiches, Cozy Corner is also famous for their whole Cornish hens, whole chickens, and barbecued bologna sandwiches. But it’s at Thanksgiving that they really shine: My family always pre-orders a whole smoked turkey from them that never disappoints.

Alex Greene

735 North Parkway, 901-527-9158

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On the Queue for the Weekend

Barbecue smoke plumed blue and beautiful (and mouth-watering) over Liberty Park Wednesday and another will rise Thursday right on the river.

Two barbecue festivals do it low and slow this year in Memphis. The Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest (WCBCC) opened to the public Wednesday. SmokeSlam, the brand-new festival, was slated to open doors at Tom Lee Park Thursday afternoon.

The Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest returns to Liberty Park. (Photo: Memphis In May via Facebook)

Everyone used to just call the WCBCC “Barbecue” or “Barbecue Fest.” Time will tell what shorthand or nickname will arise with two contests in town at the same time.

One thing is the same, though. Memphis in May has attracted some of the biggest, most-winning teams in barbecue. The roster shows Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q competing in shoulder. Barbecue celebrity Myron Mixon’s Jack’s Old South team will compete in whole hog. Sweet Swine O’ Mine is back cooking shoulder.

In all, Memphis in May boasts about 130 teams from 22 states and five foreign countries. All of them compete in the traditional categories of ribs, shoulder, and hog, as well as hot wings, sauce, and “Anything But Pork.” Winners will take home a share of $150,000 in prize money.

Down on the river, SmokeSlam’s three-day event promises a “fan-first” experience. This means barbecue, of course, but also fans can shop the National Barbecue & Grilling Association (NBBQA) BBQ Bazaar, a central marketplace with a wide array of products from celebrity chefs and other curated goods. The marketplace will also feature live demos from big-name pitmasters like Carey Bringle, Thyron Mathews, Ray Sheehan, Melissa Cookston, and more.

Other high-profile pitmasters will show their stuff at the B&B Charcoal: Live Fire Extravaganza. This will feature demos and live-fire samples from pros like Al Frugoni (Open Fire Cooking), Derek Wolf (Over the Fire Cooking), and others.

The biggest buzz around SmokeSlam in Memphis has been the music lineup. It includes Tone Loc, Young MC, War, The Bar-Kays, and St. Paul and the Broken Bones. Every night ends with a fireworks show.

SmokeSlam attracted some heavy-hitting teams, too: 10 Bones BBQ from Nesbit, Memphis-loved caterers Hog Wild BBQ, and Nashville’s barbecue-famous Peg Leg Porkers. In all, nearly 60 teams will compete. They’re mostly from the Memphis region but the contest pulled in teams from South Carolina, Wisconsin, Arizona, and elsewhere.

SmokeSlam boasts the biggest purse in barbecue competition history. Teams will share $250,000 in prize money. 

Toby Sells

World Championship Barbecue Cooking
Contest, Liberty Park, Wednesday-Saturday, May 15-May 18, $15.00-$549, memphisinmay.org

SmokeSlam, Tom Lee Park, Thursday-Saturday, May 16-May 18, $15.13-$544.74, smokeslam.com  

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Cover Feature News

Late-Night Eats

You never know who you’ll run into late at night if you stop by a restaurant or bar that serves food after 10 p.m. In Memphis, it could be a drunk bounty hunter at now-closed CK’s, an election conspiracy theorist throwing back Bud Lights, or hopefully, a local celebrity.

Rocky Kasaftes remembers when Priscilla Presley stopped by Alex’s Tavern with a group of people around 11 p.m. Kasaftes, who owns the iconic bar/restaurant at 1445 Jackson Avenue, made his famous Greek Burgers, hot wings, and ribs for everybody. But he fixed something special for Presley.

“I don’t eat meat,” says Presley, who was in Memphis recently. “So instead I asked him to make me a grilled cheese sandwich. I still eat grilled cheese sandwiches when I need to.”

The sandwich was “great,” she adds. And Alex’s Tavern was “very quaint. And nice. Not too large. I enjoyed it very much.”

The Memphis Flyer recently set out on a quest to check out some late-night dining spots that continue to serve food after most places have shut down their kitchens. And while there used to be plenty of easy fixes for the late-night munchies, Covid saw some restaurants decide to forego their nocturnal offerings. But fret not: For the night owls among us, there are still those who work tirelessly to make sure that, yes, after stumbling out of the bar or getting off work late, they’re still here to keep us fed. As we ventured out into the night, our odyssey took us to three different pillars, old and new, of late-night dining that are sure to do the trick when Taco Bell just won’t cut it.

The authors’ first late-night stop took them to Pantá where they sipped on a Toussaint Daiquiri and split a Catalan Hot Dog. Oh, and they had coffee. Can’t forget the French press coffee. (Photo: KD Holliday)

Pantá

For our first stop, we trekked to a bumping new Midtown Catalan hot spot. Chef/owner Kelly English specifically wanted a late-night menu at his latest endeavor, Pantá, at 2146 Monroe Avenue.

“Pantá is a real view of Catalan eating and the way they approach dining in that region of Spain,” English says. “In Barcelona, a lot of restaurants don’t even open until 7 or 8. We open at 6. They stay open at least until midnight. This is a natural part of what we have set out to provide. The kitchen has been open until 11 on Thursdays and midnight on Friday and Saturday since we opened.”

The response has been great, English says. “We’ve recently changed the program for late night a bit to give our guests what we have heard them asking for — a little more approachable late-night food served with some of the exact same ingredients we use earlier in the evening.”

Diners who come in after 10 p.m. order from a special late-night menu, not from the earlier menu.

“We originally served our entire dinner menu through the end of service. We started this new menu a couple of weeks ago. It is also available during normal hours during Sunday supper.”

Pantá’s late-night menu has six items that harness the restaurant’s Catalan inspiration. They’re all a bit cheaper than the regular menu (think the $8-$12 range). There are some enticing-looking options like the Brava Burger — a patty of spiced beef with grilled onions, mozzarella, olive pickles, and brava sauce — or Pantá’s take on a Philly — made with pork secreto, slow-cooked onions and peppers, and a healthy helping of “melty white cheesiness.” We opted for the Catalan Hot Dog to start, a grilled “glizzy” placed on a bun, but there’s no sauerkraut-and-mustard combo here. Instead, the dog is topped with escalivada (a traditional Catalan vegetable mix) and a smooth garlic aioli. We cut it in half for an easy shareable and also ordered French press coffee to prepare for the journey ahead.

But perhaps the best late-night snack is the Loaded Brava Fries. It’s almost like a fries-based version of loaded nachos but with a Catalan twist. Let’s just say it certainly made a good impression. The tender, slow-roasted duck is delicious and very easy to scarf down with a handful of fries. And there’s a bit of a kick to it from a spicy harissa pepper sauce. It’s an approachable, but elevated, snack that has all the right ingredients to keep that buzz from spilling over. All the while, front-of-house manager and overall vibe-setter Aaron Ivory is ready to whip up one of his specialties.

“Personally, I like that we have a spot for people in my industry to come after work,” English says. “Or people in the world of theater. Both patrons and professionals. A place that can grow with what we think is a new chapter of Midtown that is coming about. I love the new avenue of freedom that our manager, Aaron Ivory, can show behind the bar and our chef, Patrick Kee, can express in the food.”

A group of young people came in Pantá around 11 p.m. and sat at a table in the dining room. They wanted to eat after leaving Tiger and Peacock, says Ken LeGassey. This was their first time at Pantá.

They wanted to eat as well as “continue to drink and socialize,” LeGassey says. Speaking for themselves and other young people out on the town, he says, “After they’ve been drinking, they’re looking for a place with the right food that’s unique, high-quality.” LeGassey and his friends found it at Pantá. “This is the new Taco Bell.”

Like Priscilla Presley, our authors made their way to Alex’s Tavern, where they caught up with owner Rocky Kasaftes about his famous Greek Burger. (Photo: Samuel x. Cicci)

Alex’s Tavern

Our next stop took us to Alex’s Tavern, which has been serving food late at night for decades.

Rocky’s dad, Alex Kasaftes, who opened the bar in 1953, used to serve ham sandwiches.

“Remember the big hams? You could put a ham in a rack and slice off the bone? He did that.”

After his dad died in 1978, Rocky took over the bar. He began serving hamburgers, but he also concentrated on people who arrived late. “It was really for restaurant people that got off work at 11 or whatever. That’s kind of how it started. For a while it was mostly restaurant people or people who worked at the hospital or police to get a burger.”

His mother, Eugenia Kasaftes, would “make the patties at home, slice cheese and tomato, and I’d come pick it up.” Alex’s Tavern served food until 3 a.m. in those days. Now, it’s until midnight during the week and maybe 1 or 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Rocky now makes the hamburgers, which are 80/20 ground chuck. “My mom was big on just a good ol’ burger with salt and pepper, but we added Cavender’s to it.” Cavender’s All Purpose Greek Seasoning is on just about everything Rocky serves. He even sprinkles it on the potato chips. “Cavender’s, that’s the key to everything, which makes us different, I guess.”

His Greek Burgers have “the good crust on the outside.” And, he says, “You never press it on the grill. Never do that. The cheese has to be melted. You never want cold cheese on a piece of meat.”

Alex Tavern’s Greek Burger was featured on Burger Land with host George Motz on the Travel Channel and in Motz’s book, Hamburger America.

Rocky began doing hot wings in the late ’80s. “They’re not breaded at all. We just fry them.”

He dips the wings in a vat of Texas Pete Hot Sauce and butter for those who want hotter wings. He dips the others in a vat of Wicker’s marinade and Worcestershire sauce for people who prefer a milder snack. “I put them on the plate and sprinkle the Greek seasoning on top.”

He also uses Cavender’s on his ribs, which he began doing during football season about 20 years ago. He adds apple juice to the ribs while he cooks them. He then adds Wicker’s marinade and Worcestershire sauce. “While I cook them, I spray them with apple juice. Then when they’re almost done, we wrap them in tinfoil and I’ll put more apple juice on them. They’ll steam in that juice on the flattop.”

Gumbo came next. “It’s just really shrimp, sauce, and chicken. I’ll add other stuff, of course.”

He also does barbecued shrimp with lemon butter and garlic and cold shrimp with his own sauce “with lots of horseradish. Enough to where it brings a tear to your eye.” Usually during the winter Rocky makes his mother’s Mama K’s homemade vegetable beef soup.

Sometimes he makes toasted ravioli and fried cheese and pork tenderloin for special occasions, including events he caters. “Usually, I’m the one cooking. I like it that way.”

But Rocky doesn’t stop there. “I’ll do stuff for folks when they request it. A filet with a baked potato and salad, filet and shrimp. I’ve made my mom’s spaghetti recipe. Everything is from scratch. I made Alfredo with shrimp or chicken. They just have to let me know ahead of time. And they do.”

They’ll say, “Hey, I want something different.” And Rocky responds, “Okay, I got it.”

Just like when he came up with a grilled cheese sandwich for Presley. “I think I put two or three different kinds of cheese on it just for her.”

“Tell Rocky I’m coming back on Elvis Week in August,” Presley says. “I’m going to be here for about five or six days. It’s a wonderful, wonderful restaurant, and I know I’m going to get great food. Especially great grilled cheese sandwiches.”

An unusual menu item, the Tofu Nachos are RP Tracks’ secret weapon. (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

RP Tracks

The final stretch of our journey took us to RP Tracks at 3547 Walker Avenue, home of an eclectic guest list, thirsty University of Memphis students, and those oh-so-delectable barbecue tofu nachos. It’s a tried-and-true template, one that’s been working for Tracks and its customers for almost four decades now. Mary Laws has been running the place alongside her husband, Bernard, since 2015, after buying Tracks from original owners Rick Johns and Peter Moon.

And Laws has her own history there. “I’m a U of M grad, and I’d started working at RP Tracks in 2004,” she says. “And I met Bernard there. I was a server, he was a dishwasher, so it was kind of like a fairy-tale story that Rick and Peter approached us to buy the place.”

And since taking over seven years ago, Laws has continued to make sure that Tracks is a place that anyone can come to for some relaxation and recreation. And maybe even to meet some new people. “We’ve got a large crowd Monday through Friday that comes to watch Jeopardy!,” she says. “And late at night hanging out at the bar or in the restaurant, it’s so easy to strike up a conversation with someone who is virtually a stranger to you.”

Laws says Tracks has grown the food side of the business since trimming down the menu so that the cooks could get things out more efficiently. “We only have eight or so feet of cooking space, so they were bending themselves into pretzels to accommodate the larger menu.” But one steadfast presence at Tracks has been the popular barbecue tofu nachos. It’s the perfect snack, and certainly a perfect choice for late-night diners. It’s a heaping bowl, with thin chips covered with all the regular fixings: jalapeños, tomatoes, lettuce, shredded cheese, and sour cream. But Tracks’ secret weapon added to the mix is the layer of black bean chili (carnivores can order meat chili instead) that accentuates the crispy tofu blocks. And there are plenty of other nacho customization options to find the right flavor.

“Those nachos are wonderful and delicious, and always have been,” says Laws. “But I also enjoy our barbecue chicken Gouda quesadilla, and I like to put hot sauce on there for some heat. And the RP Burger with cheddar cheese is my other go-to.”

And at RP Tracks, there’s almost always something for everyone. The menu is “all over the place, in a good way,” says Laws, boasting everything from quesadillas to nachos to burgers to sandwiches to salads. But the ace up Tracks’ sleeve is the wealth of vegetarian bar food options they have for late arrivals. There are the nachos, of course, but the sandwiches and quesadillas both have a separate “animal-friendly” section featuring more tofu and fresh vegetables. Even hot wings can be swapped out for tofu slices. “It’s really important we have that. In addition to being the place where I cut my teeth on drinking, it’s where I also grew to really appreciate vegetarian food.”

For now, Tracks’ kitchen is open until 12:30 a.m., with the bar closing half an hour later. While Tracks would stay open until 3 a.m. pre-Covid, Laws says they didn’t see much business during that last hour and likely won’t bring that back. However, they will be expanding their hours again soon, pushing the kitchen to 1:30 a.m., with closing at 2 a.m. “We’ve been getting everyone acclimated again to our new schedules,” says Laws. “And I think in mid-August, we’ll be ready to keep our kitchen open until 1:30.”

Laws’ push to return to later hours comes from her trouble finding places to eat late on her drive home. “I would leave Tracks at midnight and be driving around, and things just weren’t open. And I think that’s one of the ways Covid really shaped things. I realized, ‘My god, there’s not much late-night dining anymore! We’ve gotta stay open until 1:30 so that people have a place to go, a place to eat.’ And I think that’s something a lot of Memphians want.”

Categories
Cover Feature Food & Drink News

Burger Bonanza: Celebrating Burger Week with 10 Bluff City Burgers

Everybody loves Burger Week. At least, everyone on the Flyer editorial team certainly seems downright hungry to devour a burger (and write about the experience) for this annual cover story.

And why shouldn’t they be? Hamburgers are the black T-shirt of American cuisine — they go with almost everything. Whatever your palate, you can dress them up or down to your taste, even eschewing the meat if that’s what floats your burger boat (and as 20 percent of this story’s samplings do). This roundup of 10 Bluff City burgers runs the gamut, from the classic to the most gourmet of garnishes.

Whet your appetite with these helpings of hamburger, and then see page 17 for a full list of the Burger Week specials available around town. In the meantime, if, like Frank Zappa and The Mothers of Invention, you find yourself “Cruisin’ for Burgers,” we hope this list will be your burgerific guide.

The Bishop Burger at Bishop
Bishop, inside Central Station Hotel at 545 South Main, feels both familiar and otherworldly: You’re in the heart of historic Memphis, but with a French twist. A light Eurodisco take on Françoise Hardy’s “Le Temps De L’Amour” echoes through the room when the burger enters, buttered brioche buns gleaming, a steak knife plunged into the center, and all else is forgotten. Much care has gone into this creation, which some food-savvy friends have dubbed the best burger in town.

The double patties are made with beef from Evans Farms, blended with filet and short rib trimmings, topped with cheddar cheese and “all natural, humane” bacon from Niman Ranch. And then there are the enhancements: a B1 sauce, “a play on A1 sauce,” essentially a red wine and butter demi-glace incorporating more bits of filet, and a tomato aioli. The latter is made with tomatoes fermented for several days in the Bishop kitchen, adding a subtle tartness to the profile.

If you opt for pommes frites, try them with the garlic and dijon aioli, which takes the French penchant for mayonnaise with fries and throws a mustardy bite into the proceedings. Merveilleuse! — Alex Greene

Bishop, 545 S. Main Street #111

Steakhouse Burger at RP Tracks (Photo: Shara Clark)

Steakhouse Burger at RP Tracks
“Proud loser of the Best Burger in Memphis award for what, 30 years now?” That’s the text on an advertisement RP Tracks ran in this publication a few months back, poking fun at the fact that they’ve never made it to the top in the Flyer’s Best of Memphis “Best Burger” category. That may well be true, but their burgers are the business.

The standard RP Burger is a good go-to if you’re looking for a classic (8-oz. Angus patty and your choice of cheese, alongside a setup of lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles), but don’t stop there. The bacon cheddar and jalapeño burgers are both solid choices, but — being a fungi fanatic — I opt for the steakhouse. A thick, juicy beef patty is topped with grilled red onions and mushrooms, covered with melted Gouda shreds, and sandwiched in a potato bun. You can add the fixings to it, if you’d like, but with or without the extras, you’re gonna need to take a tip from Guy Fieri and do “the Hunch” — cradle it from underneath to hold it all together, tilt your head to the side, and open wide to get all that goodness in one bite. Any of Tracks’ burgers can be made with a Beyond Burger veggie patty, and they’re served with hand-cut fries. I go for the tots because that’s how I roll. — Shara Clark

RP Tracks, 3547 Walker Avenue

The Fye Junt at Plant Based Heat (Photo: Samuel X. Cicci)

The Fye Junt at Plant Based Heat
It’s fire, fire, everywhere with one of Plant Based Heat’s signature burgers. The new vegan restaurant by Ralph Johnson brings in all the traditional flavors of Southern cooking, just without the meat. For burger time, I emerged slightly singed, but none the worse for wear, after diving into the Fye Junt burger.

The Beyond Meat patty is simply the canvas for the firestorm to come. Jalapeño peppers? Check. Vegan pepper jack cheese and spicy mayo? Absolutely. But instead of a simply overwhelming heat wave, PBH’s secret sauce, coupled with Memphis Sweet Heat BBQ sauce, brings the spice back down to a manageable level just before things get out of hand. For good measure, toss in fresh spinach, tomato, and caramelized onions.

The Fye Junt fresh off the grill sure feels like messy and greasy goodness, with a texture akin to biting into a regular ol’ beef patty. Even if you’re a devout carnivore, like me, the Fye Junt will satisfy, I promise. Just maybe make sure there’s a glass of water nearby. For it’s all in the name: The Fye Junt truly brings plant-based heat. — Samuel X. Cicci

Plant Based Heat, 669 S. Highland Street

Ostrich Burger at Off the Hoof (Photo: Julie Ray)

Ostrich Burger at Off the Hoof
I’d heard about two great places for a burger in Arlington — Off the Hoof and Slingshot Charlie’s. I planned to try both and the best burger would get a write-up. By default Off the Hoof won the competition. Slingshot Charlie’s was shuttered for the week so that the owner and staff could celebrate the Fourth of July. Don’t fret, Charlie should be slinging shots by the time you read this.

At Off the Hoof, I had planned to have the $5 house burger. But then I saw the “Big Game” menu. I had to go there. It boasted buffalo, elk, wild boar, ostrich, and venison burgers. I was informed that fresh ostrich meat was shipped in on Tuesdays and Fridays. This tasty trek was on a Friday. Score.

I made a mistake. It tasted like beef. I expected more. There were some interesting sides ordered — Frito Pie (Fritos corn chips, chili, and cheese) and Freta Fries (hand-cut battered fries with feta cheese and buffalo sauce).

I wish I’d tried the $5 burger. The place was full of regulars. You don’t get regulars with a $19 ostrich burger that tastes like beef. Google informed me that ostrich was a lot healthier than beef and an ostrich looks like Big Bird.

My apologies to Sesame Street, but I took that as a win. — Julie Ray

Off the Hoof, 12013 US-70, Arlington, Tennessee

Mr. Good Burger at Roxie’s Grocery (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Mr. Good Burger at Roxie’s Grocery
“I hope you don’t have any work to do this afternoon.”

I’m standing next to Daris Leatherwood, chef and owner of the Sum Light Bistro food truck. We’re in line at Roxie’s Grocery, waiting for our orders. The cooks are presiding over a full griddle. It’s lunchtime, and we’re behind a big order destined for workers at nearby St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. Roxie’s is an Uptown landmark, the kind of place where you take time to talk to your neighbors. Leatherwood’s been telling me about launching his food truck when he asks what I ordered. I’m getting the Mr. Good Burger, the H-bomb of the Bluff City burger scene. I tell him I’ve got to write about it once I’ve eaten it. “You’re gonna have to take a nap,” he says.

The Mr. Good Burger comes wrapped in a foil package that’s bigger than both my fists — and I’m a bass player with long fingers. It’s a double bacon cheeseburger with all the trimmings, but that generic description doesn’t convey the sheer magnitude of this classic. The four strips of super-thick bacon are bent double and inserted between the patties. I have to unhinge my jaw to take the first bite and blast off to carnivore heaven. They call it “Mr. Good Burger” for a reason. This is the Platonic ideal of the two-patty griddle burger, a mixed-meat masterpiece.

Now I’ve got to lay down. The things I do for journalism … — Chris McCoy

Roxie’s Grocery, 520 N. 3rd Street

The Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop (Photo: Jon W. sparks)

The Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop

My burger of choice, the Bshop Wagyu Burger at the Beauty Shop, is daunting, understandably pricey, and a thing of wonder. The $12 delight comes with a tasty special sauce, lettuce, tomato, cheese, pickles, and onions. I ordered bacon, avocado, and mushrooms on top of that (75 cents each) because I could. Cheeses available are American (my choice), cheddar, pimento cheese, provolone, and gruyère. And you can get an egg in the mix for another buck.

Once you’ve outfitted it, you’ll find it difficult to deploy in the traditional way. There is a top and bottom torta roll, but everything in the middle makes it difficult to chomp without dislocating a jaw, so you may want to have utensils at the ready. Still, going at the mushrooms with fingers or the avocado with a fork doesn’t diminish the pleasure in the slightest. The beef is sublime and the veggies are yummy. It is fairly typical of what you get at the Beauty Shop — or any of Karen Carrier’s eateries — in bringing forth the freshest ingredients and splendidly prepared dishes. — Jon W. Sparks

The Beauty Shop, 966 S. Cooper Street

Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe

I can’t resist saying the Firecracker Burger at Clancy’s Cafe bursts with flavor. But it really does. It’s delicious.

But I won’t say “explode” because it’s not one of those so-hot-it’s-inedible food items.

“It is two 8-ounce patties, ground beef, that’s stuffed with our homemade pimento cheese and pickled jalapeños,” says Tyler Clancy, owner of the Red Banks, Mississippi restaurant.

“And then we fry the burger, of course. It’s on a toasted sourdough bun with our hand-breaded onion rings. The onion rings are on the burger. And then we do our in-house queso cheese dip on all of it.”

The burger is just one of those things that was so good it stayed around. “This was like a Fourth of July special probably five, six years ago. It had great success. People really liked it. It eventually made its way on the menu.”

And, again, this isn’t some fiery burger that will make you run for water. “I would just describe it as more of a mild to medium heat. The jalapeños aren’t very hot. So it’s more of a spiciness than it is a real tongue-burner.” — Michael Donahue

Clancy’s Cafe, Hwy. 178 West, Red Banks, Mississippi

Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive (Photo: Abigail Morici)

Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive
As a Catholic, I’ve made my fair share of mandatory confessions, but this is, perhaps, my most embarrassing one yet: I tried my first burger in 2019, not as a curious toddler but as a semi-functioning 20-year-old picky-eater. It was a veggie burger on a certain local college campus, where my options were limited, my standards sinking, my expectations low, and, man, that burger was sinfully bad. Thankfully, I had the wherewithal not to give up just yet on expanding my palate, and I tried the Chipotle Black Bean Burger at Evelyn & Olive. And hallelujah, what a delight!

The ciabatta bun is lightly toasted, and the black bean patty, topped with tomato and lettuce, has just the right amount of crisp. But the mango-barbecue sauce is the real star of the show with a smoky but sweet flavor. Plus, the dish came with a side, so I also devoured some fried plantains, which mmmm, I could snack on all day and night and the next morning, too. Overall, the black bean burger is pretty simple compared to the other Jamaican and Southern dishes on the menu, but Evelyn & Olive can never disappoint. — Abigail Morici

Evelyn & Olive, 630 Madison Avenue

No.1 Farm Burger at Farm Burger (Photo: Courtesy Farm Burger)

No. 1 Farm Burger at Farm Burger
The eponymous sandwich at Farm Burger in Crosstown Concourse is exactly what you’d want something called a “farm burger” to be — fat, juicy, but tight enough in its bun to be easily managed by hand. Cooked to your order (I like mine medium well), the patty I had was topped with cheddar and a generous layer of caramelized onions and marinated in the establishment’s “f.b. sauce” (mayonnaise, garlic, and a touch of chili were some of the recognizable components). The bun encasing all these goodies was an integral part of the package, as well, its breaded halves neither melted on nor floppily separate.

The burger, which is served in a basket, can be further customized more or less to the customer’s taste, and a variety of sides is available. I was happy enough with the basic Farm Burger as normally prepared, but I was curious enough about what was billed as “pimento cheese fries” to give that menu item a try. It turned out to be a delectable (and generously proportioned) selection of french fries smothered in melted pimento cheese and crowned with sliced jalapeños. Forks are available. You can eat as many of the peppers — or as few — as you choose. It may depend on what your drink choice is; mine was a glass of a refreshingly light pilsner beer. Standard teas and soft drinks can be had as well. — Jackson Baker

Farm Burger, 1350 Concourse Avenue #175

Assassin Burger at Wally Hatchet’s (Photo: Toby Sells)

Assassin Burger at Wally Hatchet’s
Drive east past the Malco Summer Drive-In, cross the Wolf River, pass Golf and Games, and drive past the Shoney’s graveyard of Summer and Sycamore View. Find self-control enough to pass Elena’s Taco Shop, cross Elmore Road, and you’ll find Wally Hatchet’s, nestled in a strip mall with a how-can-this-still-be-Memphis address.

The lunch-rush crowd was finishing up as I entered. Customer graffiti covered the walls in between colorful prints of Hank Jr., Merle Haggard, and the like. The aesthetic was NASCAR-dad man-cave with a collage of art (like a painted board that reads “rock me baby”), a dented piece of a race car, a giant Harley-Davidson sign, and a toilet-roll holder shaped like a revolver. One wall was dedicated to military veterans.

Given the drive, I wanted the wildest burger Wally Hatchet’s had to offer. The Assassin Burger was tasty but mild, given an ingredient list that included pepper jack cheese, grilled jalapeños, and pepper sauce that tasted an awful lot like A1.

Wally Hatchet’s won’t become my next burger obsession. But, if you’re out that way, give it a try. — Toby Sells

Wally Hatchet’s, 6439 Summer Avenue

Categories
Cover Feature News

Eat Your Veggies: 11 Great Vegetarian Dishes from Memphis Restaurants

As any vegetarian or vegan will tell you, meat is not an essential ingredient in a hearty, satisfying meal. Around town, a multitude of options abound. From ramen and pizza to nachos and hot dogs, you can cure just about any craving with a veggie-packed dish. Here are a few of our staff favorites, procured from local restaurants.

Julia Baker

Vegetarian Crazy Noodle

Crazy Noodle, Miso Ramen or Vegetarian Crazy Noodle

Getting a pick-up order at The Crazy Noodle on Madison is a reminder of two matters: (1) There are things to do with noodles (er, udon) other than make spaghetti. And (2) Korean cuisine favors spicy dishes.

The popular Miso Ramen is a case in point. A soupy mix of spinach, tofu, onions, carrots, zucchini, cabbage, and the aforementioned udon stirred into a tangy bean paste broth, this dish awakens the palate and is hearty enough to be a complete meal.

Another good bet is the Vegetarian Crazy Noodle, with similar ingredients, including shiitake mushrooms and Korean radish and just the right amount of red pepper — not so much as to make you take breaks between bites but not so little as to escape your notice. The dishes range from $9.99 to $10.99, and service on the pick-up orders is quick and thoughtful. — Jackson Baker

2015 Madison, 272-0928

Roger Sapp

Portabella Mushroom Sandwich

Central BBQ, Portabella Mushroom Sandwich

You’re sitting at Central BBQ surrounded by meat, but you don’t want meat. Try the portabella mushroom “barbecue” sandwich. It’s a hefty sandwich with portabella instead of pork. A portabella already tastes a lot like meat, but the folks at Central add barbecue sauce, slaw, and other fixings and — voila! — you’ve got a faux barbecue sandwich.

The sandwich was born when they were “looking for a vegetarian item” to serve, says Roger Sapp, one of the owners. Fellow owner Craig Blondis suggested a grilled portabella mushroom. “We marinate it in olive oil and balsamic vinegar,” Sapp says. “Then we throw it on the grill and serve it like you would a barbecue.” They top it with smoked Gouda cheese and serve it on a bun. If you’re vegan, ask them to leave off the cheese.

Craig’s wife, Elizabeth Blondis, likes the portabella mushroom sandwich with Central BBQ’s mustard sauce. “It makes it not so sweet,” she says. “Just a little bit more savory.” — Michael Donahue

Multiple locations including 2249 Central, 272-9377

Shara Clark

RP Tracks, BBQ Tofu Nachos

RP Tracks, BBQ Tofu Nachos

Pre-COVID, my sister, who admittedly isn’t the most adventurous eater, tried tofu for the first time at RP Tracks — the BBQ Tofu Nachos, to be exact — and loved it. Crispy on the outside with a soft center and tossed in a sweet barbecue sauce, the tofu nuggets are layered underneath loads of lettuce, tomatoes, jalapeño peppers, cheddar cheese, and black bean chili (be sure to request the bean chili rather than meat for the full-on vegetarian version). All that veggie goodness is piled high on a bed of tortilla chips and topped with a dollop of sour cream. It’s a generous, shareable helping for the price ($10) and a great starting point for the tofu-curious. Really, who doesn’t love a good nacho?

There are plenty of other veggie-friendly dishes on the menu, but don’t sleep on the tofu version of Pedro’s Wings. Strips of fried tofu are covered in your choice of wing sauce, and believe me when I tell you, it’s surprisingly close to the real thing. They’ve even got vegan ranch to dip ’em in. — Shara Clark

3547 Walker, 327-1471

Matthew J. Harris

Golden India, Palak Paneer

Golden India, Palak Paneer

When I was a freshman in college, I made a short, unsuccessful stint of going vegetarian. Though I quickly gave in at the first hint of pulled pork at a football tailgate, the experience did cement my love for Indian cuisine and for one dish in particular: palak paneer.

The dish, also incorrectly referred to as green paneer depending on where you are in the U.S., is a spinach curry composed mainly of a mix of Indian cottage cheese, or paneer, and puréed spinach. The dish is then served over rice with a side of naan, creating a fairly light but filling meal.

In town, Golden India makes some of the best palak paneer. With mild, medium, and hot — and dear lord is it hot — their palak paneer can please just about any palate. My go-to meal is palak paneer, garlic naan, and a mango lassi. — Matthew J. Harris

2097 Madison, 728-5111

Samuel X. Cici

The Doghouzz, Beyond Memphis Dog

The Doghouzz, Beyond Memphis Dog

If it looks like a dog, feels like a dog, and tastes like a dog, then it’s probably a regular ol’ hot dog, right? Wrong.

The Doghouzz’s full menu can take any selection and swap out an all-beef frank for a Beyond Meat dog. It’s all the hot-diggity-dog goodness of a regular dog bundled up in a nice, vegan package. If you want to keep it quintessentially Bluff City, there’s no going wrong with the classic Memphis Dog. Packing in some staples of 901 dining, the Memphis Dog is slathered with barbecue sauce and smothered under a bed of coleslaw, for good measure. And to provide that last bit of extra kick, don’t get it without the serving of sliced jalapeños.

Perhaps the highest compliment, from this longtime carnivore, at least, is that I couldn’t tell I wasn’t munching on a “real” hot dog. The Doghouzz’s vegan twist on a long-standing fixture of American dinners, festivities, and events makes the “dog” more accessible than ever. — Samuel X. Cicci

1349 Autumn, 207-7770

Sweet Grass / Twitter

Sweet Grass, General Tso’s Cauliflower

Sweet Grass, General Tso’s Cauliflower

Food swaps aren’t fun. Zoodles for noodles? Okay, but c’mon. Tofurkey? I get it, but geez.

The General Tso’s Cauliflower ($12) at Sweet Grass ain’t that. I don’t order it because I can’t have or don’t want fried chicken. (I always want fried chicken, btw.) I order the cauliflower because it’s got-damned delicious.

The Sweet Grass General Tso’s is generously coated in tempura and fried, giving the dish a meaty heft that’s substantial under the knife. Then it’s bathed in that classic, orange-brown sauce. Sweet Grass didn’t go haute cuisine on this. The sauce is that sweet, sticky, tangy, slightly hot stuff you know and love.

Together, the tempura and the sauce tenderly hug it all in a flavor parka. Then the whole thing is snuggled down on a bed of coconut rice and tucked in with a sprinkle of sesame seeds. Oh, and there’s cauliflower inside all of that. — Toby Sells

937 Cooper, 278-0278

Julie Ray

Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant, Yetsome Beyaynetu

Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant, Yetsome Beyaynetu

Open the doors to Abyssinia and you are transported to a friendly village in Africa. In this village, the porous injera bread made from teff, a mineral-rich, gluten-free whole grain high in protein, is abundantly stacked in poly bags for takeout.

Owner-operator Meseret “Missy” Abdi serves a visually tantalizing palette of color synonymous with George Hunt Memphis in May artwork — only with food. A menu item called Yetsome Beyaynetu overflows with split spicy red lentils, split yellow peas, collard greens, mixed vegetables, potato salad, and beet salad. It is beautiful and tasty with flavorful spices. Abdi says the menu item is vegan, too.

Dining in Ethiopia is characterized by the ritual of breaking injera and eating from the same plate. Bring friends and partake in this custom signifying the bonds of loyalty and friendship over melded flavors of exotic spices, sweet and savory vegetables, and curiously sour yet nutty injera bread. — Julie Ray

2600 Poplar, #115, 321-0082

Jesse Davis

Crisy Ginger Tofu

Soi Number 9, Crispy Ginger Tofu

Inside the unassuming takeout box is a lunch ready to launch my taste buds on a meatless, ginger-tinged journey to FlavorTown. I open the folded cardboard lid and steam escapes. I got my lunch delivered (GrubHub for the win) from Soi Number 9.

On more than one occasion, I’ve snagged a mid-festival lunch from the familiar orange food truck, so a dish from Soi Number 9 is a little like having a mini-festival in my kitchen. In this year of no gatherings, well-prepared comfort food gives reason enough to celebrate.

Though the Thai street food vendors started with a food truck, they also operate a brick-and-mortar business inside the UT Health Science Center Food Hall. This is the first time I’ve tried the Crispy Ginger Tofu ($9.75), and it does not disappoint. The dish is made with seasoned tofu strips and stir-fried vegetables served with ginger soy, steamed jasmine rice, and cucumbers. The ginger gives the rice, in perfectly sticky clumps, a faint sweetness. The thinly sliced strips of tofu are light and crunchy. The fat slices of carrot may be the star of the show, though. Their crunch complements the crispy-on-the-outside, soft-inside tofu and the sticky rice.

For up-to-date information on the whereabouts of the food truck, check Soi Number 9’s social media pages. — Jesse Davis

920 Madison, 448-3443

Tamboli’s

Veggie Verdura Pizza

Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza, Veggie Verdura Pizza

Tamboli’s has become one of our regular go-to takeout options in recent months. Locally owned (chef and owner Miles Tamboli is an alumni of the Flyer‘s 20>30 Class of 2018), the restaurant is located in the former Fuel space on Madison.

We’re particularly fond of Tamboli’s hand-made pizzas. There are actually three vegetarian options: a savory cheese; the Cacio e Pepe (herbed ricotta topped with fresh mozzarella, pecorino Romano, cracked black pepper, and white truffle oil); and our favorite, the Veggie Verdura. Here’s how the menu describes it: “Topped with our savory red sauce, olive oil, garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, red onions, Bluff City Fungi’s shiitake mushrooms, Kalamata olives, ricotta, and a drizzle of roasted red pepper aioli on 14″ artisan dough.” The menu neglects to mention that it’s “tasty as a mug,” even if you’re not a vegetarian. It’s $14.25, and worth it. — Bruce VanWyngarden

1761 Madison, 410-8866

Alex Greene

Global Café

Global Café, various dishes

With three counters sporting the cuisines of Syria, Sudan, and Venezuela, it makes sense that the Global Café’s vegetarian game is strong. If you’ve had tabbouleh elsewhere, you may expect a lot of bulgur wheat. But, as a Lebanese anthropologist once told me, tabbouleh is really all about the parsley, and that’s very much the case in the Syrian version here. A more authentic example of the dish would be hard to find. The hummus and falafel plate is also quite fresh, with a strong tahini flavor. Both are vegan.

The menu notes that the spinach pie is not vegan, as it’s brushed with egg, but old-school vegetarians can still enjoy that or the cheese pie alternative. Be aware, though, that these do not resemble the classic Greek spanakopita, which uses phyllo dough, but are more like stuffed bread rolls.

Finally, I sampled some Venezuelan potato and cheese empanadas, or small, fried dough pockets (which can also be ordered with black bean filling). These are remarkably airy, and the garlic sauce served on the side complements them well. — Alex Greene

1350 Concourse, Suite 157, 512-6890

Laura Jean Hocking

Pho Binh, Lemongrass Tofu

Pho Binh, Lemongrass Tofu

People from outside Memphis never believe you when you tell them we have really excellent Vietnamese food here. It goes beyond the preconception of Memphis as a barbecue and hot wing town. But there has been a thriving Vietnamese community in the Bluff City since at least the 1970s, and our cuisine has benefited enormously.

Before the pandemic, Pho Binh, the modest, family-run Vietnamese restaurant on Madison Avenue, functioned as Midtown’s lunchroom. You’d see suited bankers rubbing shoulders with vegan crust punks and Black moms at the crowded buffet. Their vegetarian offerings are always top-notch. Whether sautéed in a rich black bean sauce or stir-fried with green beans, nobody does tofu better than Pho Binh.

The queen of the Pho Binh menu is the lemongrass tofu. Everyone is equal when they’re sitting at a table, picking at the remains of their buffet plate, waiting for the kindly cook to bring out a fresh pile of the dusky tofu cubes. Then, as she returns to the kitchen with an empty chafing dish, the vultures descend. Forget Antifa agitators, if there’s a riot in Midtown, it will start over lemongrass tofu.

What makes it so great? The texture is perfection: firm, but not rubbery; a little juicy, but not soggy. The uniform tofu blocks are heavily tossed with Pho Binh’s secret lemongrass concoction and fried. Serve over sticky white rice, and that’s it. No sauce or additional ingredients required. Perfection itself. It’s even better as takeout, because you don’t have to fight for it. — Chris McCoy

1615 Madison, 276-0006

Categories
Cover Feature News

Delivering the Goods

Last week on a Memphis Twitter thread, the subject of restaurant takeout and delivery options arose. People began name-checking dining options and dishes and service they’d tried and liked. I suggested they should begin tweeting their best experiences, and in the process, give a shout-out to local restaurants who were trying to survive in these trying times. It went — pardon the expression — viral, with dozens of Memphians tweeting out their favorites over the course of a couple days.

We decided to use that spontaneous outpouring of support and love for our local restaurant community as the basis for this story — to offer some views from the trenches and find out how some of your favorite eateries are coping. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Pete & Sam’s

I long to sit in one of those big booths at Pete & Sam’s, beneath the enlarged photos of founder Sam Bomarito, his sister Vita Gattuso, and others involved in one way or the other with the popular restaurant.

For now, the meals I love still are available, but they’re takeout only. The restaurant is offering lunch and dinner curbside pickup, says Michael Bomarito. “We’ve got a kiosk out there,” he says. “A person sitting out there between 4 p.m. and 8 p.m. with a credit card reader.”

Pete & Sam’s also delivers all over, whether it’s Memphis, Bartlett, or Germantown, Bomarito says. “We’re coming to you. So that’s the end of that. We’ve got three or four drivers every day. We start at noon. Then we deliver all day until 8 p.m. during the week and 9 p.m. on Fridays. Back to 8 p.m. Sundays.”

As for the food, Bomarito says, “We’re pretty much doing 90 percent of the menu. A couple of things we pulled off. They weren’t big sellers. We didn’t want food to go to waste.” Available items include their frozen lasagna that serves three and frozen ravioli meat sauce. “We have people calling from all over the country wanting us to ship our stuff.”

The take-and-bake frozen pizzas are their hottest item, Bomarito says. You can build your own pizza by adding spinach or whatever topping you want. The pizzas are covered with shrink wrap at the restaurant, the Pete & Sam’s logo is added, and the pizza is ready to go. The frozen pizzas have been available over a year, but, Bomarito says, “The last couple of weeks people went crazy stocking up their freezer.” — Michael Donahue

3886 Park, (901) 458-0694, peteandsams.com

R.P. Tracks

“Tracks has never closed,” says Mary Laws, who, with her husband Bernard, has owned the beloved University of Memphis spot for the past five years. She’s worked there for 16. “Even when they did a huge remodel in 2000, Rick and Peter [the former owners] never closed.”

R.P. Tracks has been a haven for college-goers’ study breaks and professors’ and locals’ beer meet-ups for more than 30 years (33 in December, according to Mary).

Mary Laws

R.P. Tracks bartender Jeremy Allen delivers food curbside.

“Tracks has always been here for the people in this neighborhood and the city,” she says, noting the many regulars who’ve come in for burgers and nachos or sat at the bar for conversation through the decades. “I thought, even if they can’t come in, at least they know they can still get their favorite food. They’re still seeing the bartenders who have been waiting on them for years. It’s just that small interaction, I think, that gives people a little ray of sunshine.”

After a rocky start with low carryout sales the first couple of weeks, they’ve recently extended their hours. Customers can call ahead and order from the slightly limited food menu, which thankfully still includes the famous nachos (we’ll take the barbecue tofu, please!), burgers, wings, quesadillas, and more. To-go beers, cocktails, and shooters are also available.

“I cannot tell you how much I have been touched by the support of the community,” Mary says. “If I stop and think about it, I tear up because I’m so grateful, just beyond words.”

R.P. Tracks is open for curbside pickup from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Give them a call to place your order, then call again when you arrive and they’ll bring it out to you. — Shara Clark

3547 Walker, (901) 327-1471, rptracks.com

Spindini/South Main Grocery

When the restaurant industry seemed to plummet overnight, Spindini owner Jim LoSapio had to reimagine his business model — and quick. He and his partner came up with a plan to flip the Downtown restaurant into a grocery store. Thus, in late March, South Main Grocery was born.

Shoppers will now find shelves and coolers stocked with a variety of grocery offerings, to-go dishes, and more, as well as household items including soap, cleaning supplies, paper towels, and the ever-elusive toilet paper.

Spindini/South Main Grocery Facebook

Spindini has become South Main Grocery for the time being.

“We’ve incorporated the grocery store ideas with some of the things that we did well as a restaurant,” LoSapio says. “We have grab-and-go lasagna and take-home par-baked pizzas. We’ve also incorporated things we do at our other restaurants as grab-and-go items, like gumbo and red beans and rice.”

They’re also hand-cutting fresh meat, with filets and ribeyes on offer, in addition to burger meat. Current seafood options include red fish, salmon, and shrimp. Also available: milk, orange juice, eggs, pastas, sliced bread, hoagie rolls, bagels, and freshly baked cookies, muffins, and more.

Their new dinner specials have taken off. “On Monday and Friday, we’re doing $25 smoked pork butt that we slow smoke for 11 hours,” LoSapio says. “Tuesday and Thursday, we roast chicken halves and serve them with a side for $12. Wednesdays, we’re doing pans of the awesome Spindini sausage lasagna that we’ve been doing for years. It feeds six to eight people.”

LoSapio is grateful. “South Main and Downtown is really helping us support what we’re trying to do and helping me create job opportunities for my staff. [A situation like this] really makes you appreciate the loyalty of the employees, the loyalty of the community — and proves that we’re strong and we’ll definitely get through it.” — SC

383 S. Main, (901) 578-2767, follow them on Facebook for more info

The Bar-B-Q Shop

In the South, barbecue is the unofficial food of community. It’s what Memphians pick up, by the pound, to celebrate family reunions and graduations. Out-of-town visitors usually want to know where the best barbecue joint is. And while the coronavirus has put gatherings on hold, barbecue is still grade-A comfort food, and we could all use a little comfort these days.

“Our customers have such different relationships with all of us. It’s just been challenging from that perspective because part of what we do is not just to-go food, it’s interaction,” says Eric Vernon, manager/owner of the Bar-B-Q Shop in Midtown. It’s been hard, but Vernon says he and his staff are adapting to providing the comfort food without the personal connection — at least for the time being.

Jesse Davis

The store is offering to-go, curbside pickup, and specially priced bulk orders, or family packs. The Boston Butt Shoulder is $11.29 per pound, and the Beef Brisket is $15.49 per pound. Their famous Bar-B-Q Spaghetti is $21.99 per quart. To make getting your pulled pork fix easier, the folks at the Bar-B-Q Shop have designated the parking spots in front of the restaurant, marked by orange traffic cones, as the pickup area.

“We’re also, for the first time, doing DoorDash delivery, and we’re working on our online menu for our website,” Vernon adds, saying that he’s had calls and texts from regular customers with suggestions for how to best serve quarantined Memphians hungry for barbecue and how to best get the word out. “I get a tip every other day from people who are just wanting us to stay afloat.” Here’s to staying afloat through the storm — and to sharing community and comfort food once the storm passes. — Jesse Davis

1782 Madison, (901) 272-1277, thebar-b-qshop.com

Maw Maw’s ravioli from the team of Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman

Ticer and Hudman Restaurants

All is not lost if you still can order Maw Maw’s ravioli from Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman. Ticer and Hudman are the chef/owners of a string of popular restaurants, which now are offering curbside pickup.

Nick Talarico, operations manager for the restaurants, described what each place is doing.

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen “strictly does take-and-bake, and everything is cooked at [the customer’s] home,” Talarico says. “They do a family meal and an à la carte meal — like pastas and sauces. A lot of people are getting Maw Maw’s ravioli and taking it home and cooking it.”

Catherine & Mary’s and Gray Canary have teamed up at Catherine & Mary’s restaurant, he says. “They’re doing take-and-bake stuff as well as hot-and-ready items. They’re doing fun things. Like they did tamales one day. They’re doing a potato cake with neckbone gravy. Sort of a play on Hog & Hominy’s poutine. And then we also see a lot of our pastas — the hot and ready-to-eat pastas — as really successful down there.”

Bishop, he says, is “doing the same with hot-and-ready and takeout items — probably the Birdie [fried chicken, dill aioli, Calabrian honey] and the Bishop burger are the most popular.”

The restaurants are offering dinner, but Ticer and Hudman also rolled out Saturday and Sunday brunch at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and Catherine & Mary’s. “Like pancakes and quiche. And we’re doing grits. Doing a couple of different things.” — MD

Menus are updated daily on Instagram: @amitaliancooks, @catherine_marys, and @bishopmemphis.

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, 712 W. Brookhaven Circle, (901) 347-3569

Catherine & Mary’s, 272 S. Main, (901) 254-8600

Bishop, 545 S. Main, No. 111, (901) 896-0228

Vegan Options

Sure, a lot of folks are ordering takeout from restaurants, but how is that going for the Memphis vegan community?

Many vegans, of course, are accustomed to having fewer choices when dining out, and most are comfortable with cooking at home for that very reason. The closest they come to home deliveries may be those from local farmers. But now in Memphis, vegan takeout has become fairly common. One place making a name for itself in this regard would seem quite unlikely — a dive bar: the Lamplighter Lounge.

Laurel Cannito from The Lamplighter Lounge

“We have a few unique vegan options,” says co-owner and chef Laurel Cannito. “Our curry special, our vegan sausage, egg, and cheese, our veggie burger, and our veggie dog. People are into it. We’re open every day from noon until 1a.m. After midnight, we try to get people to pick up, but if we have someone who can’t leave their house, we’re not going to tell them no. We deliver to the Midtown area, free if the order’s over $20. Under $20, there’s a $3 delivery fee. But most people who have been ordering have tended to get a good bit of stuff.”

As with all restaurants these days, a new hygiene regime is in force at the Lamp. “We got N-95 face masks before there was a shortage,” says Cannito. “We have gloves and lots of hand sanitizer and disinfectant. And we have disinfecting protocols we use every night, so everything is properly cleaned.”

Many other vegan-friendly establishments are also delivering these days, of course. Some, like the Lamplighter or Cheffie’s Cafe, use DoorDash, others use UberEats. Most vegans have their go-to restaurants in town, often non-vegan kitchens that have vegan-friendly items, as with many Asian or Mediterranean restaurants. Crazy Noodle will tweak their standard recipes for vegans on request.

But comfort food may be the order of the day for most stressed-out Americans, and it’s in high demand. Cannito has to put me on hold several times as orders roll in on a Thursday night. “Our most popular vegan item?” she says, when she finally has a moment. She doesn’t have to pause. “Hands down, the veggie burger with fries.” — Alex Greene

Lamplighter Lounge, 1702 Madison, (901) 567-5322

The Second Line and Fino’s

It’s going to be a while before we can laugh on the patio at The Second Line, enjoy quiet conversations in the elegant Restaurant Iris, and smile inside the bright and cheerful Fino’s Italian Deli & Catering.

For now, Kelly English, chef/owner of these restaurants, is adapting to the times. “Iris and Second Line kind of combined into one delivery and pickup service,” he says. “And we’re focusing on meals that people can eat with their families. Our most popular thing is the crawfish étouffée, gumbo, and jambalaya. I think people want to hug right now. The closest thing we can get to a hug is from food that comforts us.”

Caleb Sigler

Crawfish Étouffée from The Second Line/Restaurant Iris

Fino’s is doing call-in/to-go and curbside. No one sandwich is the most popular, he says. “Everybody has their own favorite Fino sandwich. It really depends on who walks in that day.”

But, English says, “The most popular thing, by far, we’ve done at Fino’s is our program that lets us partner with citizens to feed first-line responders. For groups of 400, we deliver $500 worth of food to police stations or fire departments and a lot of other places you might not think about, like the health department, as first-line responders. We’ve been doing that at least once a day.”

English also is partnering with Roadshow BMW to provide daily lunches to hospital staff members who are treating COVID-19 patients. He posts daily reports on deliveries and other doings at his restaurants on Facebook. “I fight for my team. I fight for my people. And some of my people can’t eat right now. Tired is nothing compared to what some people are going through.” — MD

For information on menus, prices, and restaurant hours, go to irisetc.com.

The Second Line, 2144 Monroe, (901) 590-2829

Fino’s Italian Deli & Catering, 1853 Madison, (901) 272-3466

Huey’s

The Huey burger is the definition of comfort food in Memphis. It’s a delicious reminder of good times.

As the chief operating officer for Huey’s nine locations, Ashley Robilio helped formulate the company’s response to the COVID-19 crisis. “We spent a good portion of the first two weeks in March just talking about strategy, and talking about all the what-ifs,” she says. “Everyone was so worried, and all of our employees were so scared. We really tried to calm them down and be as positive as we could. … We were probably one of the first restaurants that started social distancing. Even the term ‘social distancing’ was pretty unknown in Memphis for a while, so we got that part pretty quickly.”

Courtesy of Huey’s

When the shutdown orders came, the Memphis locations went first, followed a couple of days later by the suburban stores. Very quickly, Huey’s went to curb service and takeout only. Robillio says the transition went fairly smoothly. “We have decided to not do any layoffs,” Robillio says. “We’ve got a lot of obviously very good PR and thanks from all of our employees. I mean literally, some of our employees were in tears when they heard.”

The restaurant chain tapped its savings and, after some initial confusion, secured a Small Business Administration disaster assistance loan to keep their employees on the payroll. They kept employees at full pay with shortened hours and tweaked their to-go offerings. “We did take a few of the menu items off, either ones that had a lot of prep time or that don’t travel well, like nachos.”

Having a Huey burger delivered to your domicile seems like getting a message from a saner time. The Madison Avenue burger, which adds melted swiss cheese, mushrooms, and bacon to Huey’s juicy beef patty on a sourdough bun, is a deep menu cut that’s worth it. For the non-beef options, the Cajun-seasoned, grilled tuna steak sandwich is always delicious. Huey’s serves the classic steak cut fries, but a basket of tater tots or onion rings is an excellent alternative. Our recent order had encouraging messages hand-written on the takeout box. “We have gotten so many comments about the notes that we’ve written on these boxes, and some of them have gotten quite creative.”

In the coming days, Huey’s expects to roll out more ordering and delivery options and introduce a catering menu aimed at families and groups. They have already been filling large orders donors have bought to feed places like Hope House.

Robilio says she’s been in constant contact with others in the Mid-South restaurant community. “We’ve heard from a lot of different people, wanting our advice, wanting to know what we’re going to do, when we’re going to do it, and how we’re going to do it. We’ve obviously shared some things with anybody who asks. It is a community effort, and anything we can do to help the restaurant community, we want to do it. We’ve always been like that. My dad loved helping other restaurants. He loves helping anybody, and we’ve tried to stay with that same mentality.” — Chris McCoy

multiple locations, hueyburger.com

Beer!

Craft beer is essential. Local, state, and federal officials have (finally) confirmed this fact — one that I’ve known all along. In this virus world of isolation, I consider beer essential sanity supplies.

Now, it’s not the same. I like sitting at the bar and catching up with friends over pints. But, thankfully, you can still at least get those beers and bullshit with your buds over Zoom. (Still nope, though. Not even close to the same. Alas.)

Tons of local rules were relaxed on beers and breweries as stay-at-home orders came down late last month. Bars, restaurants, and breweries were allowed to offer curbside pickup and delivery.

This relentless global tragedy offers little in the way of comfort and joy. To endure, I’ve been counting every small grace I can find. One of them was the first time I ever grabbed a to-go beer from the Young Avenue Deli. I placed a dinner order over the phone and also requested a local draft beer, a 22-ouncer. What would this look like? How would it come? On my walk to pick up my order, I reveled in a daiquiri-stand fantasy of a big-ass styrofoam cup with a piece of tape over the straw hole. However it came, I knew I’d be sipping that beer on the walk home.

My fantasy wasn’t far off. It came in that plastic, Midtown-iconic Deli cup. No tape on the top, but it did have a lid with that straw hole. Plenty good enough for me. The whole thing was just … different, and felt sort of illegal. Drinking it on the way home felt deliciously rebellious.

Most Memphis restaurants are offering up curbside beer pickup and delivery. They are allowed to, at least. Many have wondered if that service will remain after social distancing orders are lifted. Seems like it’d be tough to walk it back now.

Most of Memphis’ craft breweries are offering pickup or delivery. Here’s a quick look at what they’re offering:

Meddlesome — Curbside pickup and delivery. Call (901) 207-1147 to order.

Ghost River — Curbside pickup and delivery. One case minimum on deliveries and you must live inside Memphis city limits. Call (901) 661-4976 to order.

Wiseacre — Curbside pickup and delivery. One case minimum for deliveries and only for addresses within a 10-mile radius of the brewery. Order form at wiseacrebrew.com.

Crosstown — Curbside pickup and delivery. One case minimum for deliveries with a $5 delivery fee. Order at crosstownbeer.com

High Cotton — Stopped all pickup and delivery services Monday, April 6th. “We feel this is in the best interest of our community and employees,” reads a statement from the brewery. Cans and growlers are still available in stores and restaurants.

Memphis Made — Curbside pickup. Call (901) 207-5343 to order.— Toby Sells

The Brooklyn Bridge Restaurant

The Brooklyn Bridge has been an East Memphis fixture since 1985 and, since 1987, has operated in the Orleans Place Shopping Center near the intersection of Poplar and Kirby Parkway. It was the creation of Vincent and Bridgette Correale, first-generation Italian Americans who came to Memphis from — where else? — Brooklyn. The place is still family-run, with the general manager and head chef being Giorgio Correale, son of the founders.

The entire menu, which runs from New York-style pizza to such specialties as chicken piccata, lasagna Amalfitano, portobello mushroom ravioli with shrimp, and mussels plates, is available for takeout, as well as delivery through the Postmates service. A Family Dinners menu, with numerous condiments and options, has been especially created for the stay-at-home circumstances of today. Hours are 4 to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and 4 to 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Bottles of wine are 50 percent off (with house wines and Cellar Reserve excepted).

Phone lines are open each day at 4 p.m., and orders may be placed at 901-755-7413. The management promises that anyone leaving a message will be called back. — Jackson Baker

1779 Kirby Parkway, Ste. 5, (901) 755-7413, brooklynbridgeitalian.com

Mortimer’s

Mortimer’s is upgrading its service during the coronavirus emergency, offering delivery, in addition to its existing curbside takeout service. East Memphis, in particular, is considered a major part of the restaurant’s bailiwick.

But owner/operator Christopher Jamieson, who lives in Germantown, is doing the best he can to make available the restaurant’s goodies (including growlers, wine, and takeout cocktails) on as wide a geographic basis as he can manage, doing many of the deliveries himself.

Alas, the establishment’s oyster specials, famously available on Tuesday and Saturday nights, are not on the takeout or delivery menu, but everything else is — including copies of the current Flyer issues (Mortimer’s being one of our regular pickup points). Not to mention the two rolls of toilet paper, still a scarce item, that go with all to-go orders.

The Jamieson family has long been in the restaurant business and operated the legendary (and now closed) Knickerbocker’s on Poplar for many years. Christopher Jamieson, the proprietor at Mortimer’s since 2013, says business has been better than he had first expected when the orders came down to close restaurants for on-site service. “The community has been very supportive,” he says. — JB

590 N. Perkins, (901) 761-9321, mortimersrestaurant.net

Chard from Rose Creek

Direct from Farmers

While sheltering in place, we’re all cooking more than ever, but how to get the raw materials for your cuisine? Many feel the safest option is to eliminate as much of the supply chain as possible and take deliveries directly from local farms.

Randy Alexander of Tubby Creek Farm says it makes a lot of sense to take advantage of their home-delivered produce, purely from the standpoint of hygiene. They ensure that all harvesters wash their hands and wear masks. From there, as he puts it, “The food goes directly from our field to the consumer, instead of to a warehouse chain, and then a grocery store, and through a bunch of people before it gets bought.”

Ray Tyler, of Rose Creek Farm, points out another advantage of home-delivered local produce. “Right now is when people need to be taking care of their immune systems more than ever,” he says. “Local, nutrient-dense food is not a silver bullet, but it’s a good idea to eat more of it.”

As fate would have it, Rose Creek was already ramping up its online ordering in recent years, with a small fee for home delivery. But a sense of community service caused Tyler and his wife Ashley to reconsider that. “We really wanted to do our part in making this time a little easier,” he says. “So we started offering free delivery to everybody in Corinth [Mississippi], Selmer, Henderson, Jackson, Germantown, Collierville, and Memphis.”

Luckily, the shut-in policy took hold just as farms were rolling out their spring crops. “We’re hitting our peak,” says Tyler, who notes that they now are flush with carrots, scallions, spring greens, spinach, lettuce, herbs, radishes, arugula, and beets.

Meanwhile, Tubby Creek begins making their weekly deliveries of pre-sold subscriptions this Wednesday, even as they sell surplus crops via individual online orders. Rose Creek is mostly taking the latter approach. “Our customer base has increased 100 percent,” says Tyler. “Especially in Memphis. So this has relaunched this new local food resurgency. I think people realize that in times like this, it’s a really good idea to know your local farmer.” — AG

Tubby Creek, tubbycreekfarm.com

Rose Creek, rosecreekfarmstore.com

Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken

Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken in Whitehaven, known for its crispy chicken breast dipped in sweet and spicy sauces and honey butter biscuits, closed its dining room a day before it was mandated by Memphis Mayor Jim Strickland.

Louis “Uncle Lou” Martin, the owner of Uncle Lou’s, says since then it’s been a “weird time,” but the restaurant is working to adapt. “We are struggling along,” he says. “But I’m fortunate we’re still open.”

Apart from frying chicken to perfection, Martin says his priority has been keeping his employees and customers healthy. Last week, he says he constructed and installed a sneeze guard at the restaurant’s counter. Additionally, he says, “We’ve been sanitizing like crazy. I have one guy whose only responsibility is keeping the restaurant clean.”

The restaurant is offering carryout and delivery through apps like Grubhub and UberEats. He’s been encouraging customers to make call-in orders to minimize social gatherings in and around the restaurant.

Martin says he has been in the food business since he was a junior in high school, and in the past few weeks he’s been challenged more than he has in nearly 45 years. Sales have dropped, and Martin says the restaurant isn’t making any money, but “We are making enough to pay staff and pay most of the bills.” Martin recently took a salary cut in order to keep all of his staff employed.

Uncle Lou’s serves a lot of travelers, he says. And the restaurant’s biggest money-maker has always been from people dining in. “First and foremost, I want to make it through this,” Martin says. “And I want my staff to make it through this with good health. When it’s over, I might have to reassess and make some changes. But we have to survive this first.” — Maya Smith

3633 Millbranch, (901) 332-2367, unclelousfriedchicken.com

Buster’s Liquors & Wines

Considering what a drastic change it was going from in-store to curbside sales at Buster’s Liquors & Wines, president and co-owner Josh Hammond is satisfied with how it’s going. “We shifted to just online sales, which we did for our employee safety and hopefully send a message to the community,” he says. “It’s been sort of amazing that we’ve been able to do the curbside pickup all reliant on our eCommerce system that we already had in place.”

Just before Buster’s made the switch, they were slammed almost like holiday business. “We saw significant increase there, but it was completely hectic and stressful seeing this many people in the stores,” Hammond says. “It was just too difficult to maintain. We saw a 30 percent drop-off the first week as we adjusted, and that was just from normal business. And then we saw a 15 percent increase the following week. This third week, things were just right in line with last year. So we’ve kept up.”

Jon W. Sparks

A big challenge has been compliance with coronavirus standards. “Getting masks for our employees has been an incredible task. They were ordered but got delayed. But I had a customer who gave us 200 of them.”

After ordering from the website, you get a confirmation and then later a notice that it’s ready for pickup. Parking spots are designated, and they have security directing traffic. The ordering feature is cut off at 5 p.m. so they can fill all the orders for that day. They tried delivery, but the influx of orders overwhelmed what they could do. They’re working on fixing that. — Jon W. Sparks

191 S. Highland, (901) 458-0929, bustersliquors.com

Categories
Opinion Viewpoint

The Service Industry is Suffering: Support Them

When I spoke to Spindini owner and restaurateur Jim LoSapio for this week’s cover story, a collection of highlights on what some of our beloved local restaurants are doing in the wake of coronavirus, he got choked up talking about his employees.

“I had to lay off about 50 people [across all restaurants],” he says. “It’s one thing to have to get rid of an employee who’s not performing, but when you’re having to terminate employees who shouldn’t be terminated … I can’t tell you how many single mothers I’ve had to lay off. I honestly have lost sleep many a night over this.”

Lane Erickson | Dreamstime.com

LoSapio isn’t alone. R.P. Tracks owner Mary Laws also spoke about the pain of having to lose a large part of her staff. “Of 34 people, I have six people who are still working for me, and everybody else has been furloughed,” she says. “When I had to make the choice of who the six people were … that was the hardest business decision I’ve ever made in the five years of owning Tracks. I don’t think I have cried any harder than I cried when I had to do that.”

Both LoSapio and Laws are hopeful that their people — “my adopted kids,” as Laws calls her younger employees — will be able to come back soon, that when the virus runs its course and the world opens up again, the community will return swiftly to fill the seats now sitting empty.

These two business owners certainly aren’t the only ones struggling with the decisions they’ve had to make to keep up with payroll and operating costs after incoming revenue shrunk to naught practically overnight. And their employees are among the thousands suffering as restaurants, bars, and retail operations have been limited or shuttered indefinitely to help slow the spread of COVID-19.

Some in the service industry have gotten creative, starting new businesses like Two Broke Bartenders and a Truck, a collection of out-of-work bartenders, servers, musicians, and others who are now offering lawn-care, cleaning, handyman, shopping, and delivery services so that they can make a buck during COVID closings. (For more info or to make an appointment, visit twobrokebartenders.com.)

Edible Memphis has organized the Memphis Food Industry Emergency Worker Assistance GoFundMe (and raised more than $32,000 at press time), and a Google search will lead you to memphistravel.com‘s COVID-19 resources page, where a virtual tip jar link can be found. There, more than 700 local service industry employees have listed their Venmo, Paypal, and/or CashApp info to receive tips online while they’re out of work. Go take a look and see if your favorite server or bartender is on the list.

As for R.P. Tracks’ furloughed workers, Laws says, “I used to be a server. Servers live day to day, so I know they didn’t have a pantry full of food. For our staff that isn’t working right now, they can come here and get a free meal every day … and they all know the minute I can reopen the dining room, they all are coming back.”

LoSapio says his employees are calling to check in on him. “They’re staying in touch,” he says. “What they want is for us to survive — for me as a boss to survive — so at the end of this, they can have their job back. It’s a blessing because these employees have given so much. For years, they’ve given to me.”

In the meantime, even though we can’t go out and be the barflies we used to be (we’re looking at you, Young Avenue Deli bar!) or dine in at our favorite food spots (read about a handful of those in this week’s cover story, “Delivering the Goods”), we can support the restaurants and workers who have come to define Memphis’ soul and culture.

Whether that be through the aforementioned fundraisers or new ventures or by simply ordering delivery or curbside pickup from a few of our city’s many beloved establishments, let’s show the world why Memphis is known for its grit. We’re a resilient bunch. Together, we will get through this.

Shara Clark is managing editor of the Flyer.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Meet the new(ish) owners of RP Tracks.

The “R” and “P” of RP Tracks stand for Rick (Johns) and Peter (Moon), the founders of the venerable college bar, which has operated near the University of Memphis for 29 years. Last year in June, Bernard and Mary Laws bought the place, and they immediately determined that BM Tracks would not work at all.

And so it goes. Under new ownership, RP Tracks is still RP Tracks through and through. The Laws claim that not a change has been made. There are the great burgers, that photo collage on one wall, the English prof plaques on another. The famous vegetarian barbecue nachos are still around, of course, and every time a train goes by …

New(ish) owners, Mary (left) and Bernard Laws, the same neighborhood bar by the tracks

“Okay, so that’s an urban legend. Everybody seems to think they get a shooter for a dollar or a free shooter or a shooter half off,” Mary says. “I have talked to Rick and Peter about it many, many, many times, and they have said it has never been $1 shooters or half off. Never. It’s always been a buck off when the train goes by.”

Bernard, 41, started at Tracks in 1997 as a dish washer, eventually making it to the front of the house. He left, came back, left again. Meanwhile, Mary, 40, started in 2000 and left and returned as well. For a long time, their paths never crossed, until they did. And did they ever. They got married three and half years ago.

“We had always talked about owning our own place, but we had never thought it would be here,” Mary says. “Never in a million years had we thought we would own it, ever. It just never seemed like that was in the realm of possibilities.”

It was Johnson and Moon who approached them about buying Tracks and RP Billiards across the street.

Mary recalls, “I said, Do you want to buy it? And he said, Do you want to buy it? And we both said, Yes, let’s do it. So we did.

“We’re here all the time anyway,” she adds.

The decision was made to keep the sale of RP Tracks quiet for a year.

“Rick and Peter didn’t want us to get overwhelmed right on the front end,” Mary explains. “They knew what we were walking into, so we kind of all just agreed that the first year would be a learning curve.”

And, yes, it was stressful. Though both the Laws had worked at Tracks and knew the business well, they didn’t know everything. (Also, Mary found out she was pregnant the week the contract was signed.)

“There were a lot things that Rick and Peter did that we had no idea they were doing, and they made it look so easy all the years that they did it,” Mary says. “And then they say, Here you go and handed it over to us, and I was like, What does this mean?

“It’s like having a giant baby, a very expensive, giant baby,” Mary continues. “It does sleep from 3:30 to 8:30 a.m. a day.”

RP Tracks attracts a revolving set of college students, young professionals, and longtime regulars. It’s about the cleanest, well-lit college bar you’ll ever see.

“It’s a college bar, but it’s also a neighborhood bar,” Mary says. “I would say that 75 percent of the people who come in here live in the neighborhood.

“The overall thing I like about Tracks is that it’s just easy. Coming in here is easy. You feel at home right when you walk in.”

Categories
Cover Feature News

Barbecurious!

Memphis has long been host to the biggest barbecue act around — balancing gritty kitchen smarts with a sweet disposition and a slow-cooking way of life.

No doubt you’ve seen the main event: pork ribs crusted with salty, spicy rub and doused with sweet, smoky sauce; sandwiches piled high with tender pulled pork, dripping with tangy sauce and creamy slaw.

But there are other attractions in town — some you won’t find in a typical tourist guide or brochure. The fact is, Memphians will barbecue just about anything. Read on for a peek at some of Memphis’ uniquely delicious twists on barbecue basics. From cultural crossovers to barbecue beer — behold, the barbecuriosities!

Korean Barbecue at DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar

Memphis barbecue purists probably won’t allow that what DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar serves is actually barbecue. DWJ’s ‘cue is cooked over a gas flame right at your table — no wood or charcoal involved — and for some sticklers, that’s a deal-breaker. But when it comes to flavor and spice, Korean barbecue, like the best Memphis-style preparations, really delivers.

Barbecue pork bellies — which should really appeal to pig-centric Memphians — come to the table coated in a flavorful red chili sauce and laden with mushrooms and onions. DWJ’s barbecue short ribs are thinly sliced and not nearly as sweet as Korean ribs can be, which is a good thing. Lightly marinated in minced garlic and sesame oil, the ribs are served with plenty of condiments and can be piled onto lettuce leaves with a blob of rice, a schmear of bean paste, some fresh green chili slices, and thinly shaved chunks of garlic and eaten like a wrap. Too much fuss? Just grab your chopsticks and eat them right off the grill. — Chris Davis

DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar, 3750 Hacks Cross, 746-8057

Lamb Riblets at the Rendezvous

This is counterprogramming at its finest. Who on earth would go to the world-famous Rendezvous and order lamb? I would and did. The serving consists of six or seven chunky, two-rib sections coated with Rendezvous dry rub. The lamb meat is much thicker than the Rendezvous’ pork ribs — plump, even — and pulls off the bone easily. It’s got a fine, tender, chewy consistency with a slight, lamb-y aftertaste. I added Rendezvous sauce to the rub and greatly enjoyed these off-the-beaten-path riblets.

The price is $18.75, the same as a full order of pork ribs, and the lamb riblets come with the same sides: slaw, beans, and a roll. I can eat a full order of pork ribs, but I couldn’t finish these — too much meat for one sitting. So, I took some home to enjoy the next day. Verdict: not baaahed at all. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous,

52 South Second, 523-2746

Char-Grilled Oysters at Pearl’s Oyster House

Fishermen scour the rocky coastline and sandy ocean floor to bring these pale, watery creatures to Memphis, so Memphis does what we do best: We barbecue them.

I’m not a great oyster aficionado, but I love the char-grilled oysters at Pearl’s. And what’s not to love? Oysters on the half-shell are sauced with a tangy, barbecuey, chipotle-garlic blend, then sprinkled with shaved Parmesan cheese. The little morsels are then shoved under a charbroiler long enough that the cheese gets browned to a chewy, crispy texture and the sauce is bubbling. A half-dozen, served on a rock-salt platter with a little spinach, also crispy and grilled, will set you back $9.99. But go for a dozen at $19.99. It’s seafood — how bad for you can it be? And these things are delicious. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Pearl’s Oyster House, 299 South Main, 522-9070

Cornish Game Hen at Cozy Corner

For 30 years, Cozy Corner, a tiny barbecue shack on North Parkway just east of Danny Thomas, has done things just a little bit differently from Memphis’ other pig palaces. Take, for instance, the most perfect thing on Cozy Corner’s menu: the barbecued Cornish game hen. So what if Cornish hens aren’t exotic game birds? And who cares if they aren’t always hens? These young chickens are Cozy Corner’s elegant, personal-sized twist on good old-fashioned barbecue chicken.

The Corner’s hens are cooked dry with a tasty spice rub until the skin is a beautiful mahogany color and the rich, smoky flavor goes all the way to the bone. They are served wet, with a thin, sweet-and-sour sauce that can be ordered mild or spicy but which might be more correctly labeled spicy and spicier. At $11 without sides, it may seem a little pricey, but it’s worth every penny. — Chris Davis

Cozy Corner, 745 North Parkway, 527-9158

BBQ Beer at Jack Magoo’s

While beer cocktails may be considered eclectic to the light-beer-drinkin’ masses, they’re not terribly uncommon. The British black and tan — half pale ale, half porter or stout — and the German Radler — half pilsner, half lemonade or soda — started showing up in pubs and biergardens close to a century ago and deserve their place in the world of beer. But the skeptics aren’t completely off the mark, with drinks like Jack Magoo’s BBQ beer out there.

A mix of Bud Light, Bloody Mary mix, Cattleman’s BBQ sauce, and olives garnishing, BBQ beer tastes more like a Bloody Mary than anything else. Its tomato, Worcestershire sauce, and peppery heat mixed with subtle, sweet barbecue notes make for a compelling combination. For those of you who enjoy a good Bloody Mary but are looking for an interesting take on the cocktail, this might be right up your alley — especially at a mere $2. — Andrew Caldwell

Jack Magoo’s Sports Bar and Grill, 2583 Broad, 746-9612

BBQ Tofu Burrito at R.P. Tracks

R.P. Tracks claims its barbecue tofu is “world famous.” And while international prominence might be a stretch, their deep-fried, ‘cue-covered bean curd is at least locally famous. It’s perhaps best known for its starring role in Tracks’ BBQ Tofu Nachos (tofu, black beans, tomatoes, cheese, and sour cream atop a bed of seasoned tortilla chips). But the BBQ Tofu Burrito may actually be the best tofu-to-mouth delivery method. The same toppings from those nachos are stuffed into a massive tortilla wrap (available in a white flour, wheat, sun-dried tomato basil, or spinach tortilla) topped with cheese (optional for vegans) and black olives. It’s a little hefty for lifting, so a fork (and maybe a to-go box) is recommended. Of course, you won’t miss out on those perfectly seasoned chips by skipping out on nachos. They’re served as a side item with Tracks’ signature garlicky tomato salsa. — Bianca Phillips

R.P. Tracks, 3547 Walker, 327-1471

Barbecue Brunswick Stew at the Germantown Commissary

Brunswick stew being served at a barbecue joint may only be considered sideshow in Memphis, the Mid-South, and the Delta. But in many other barbecue capitals in the South, Brunswick stew topped with pulled pork is a staple. Its recipe varies, and where the stew originated is up for debate, with folks from Georgia, Virginia, and North Carolina vying for the honor.

The hearty soup offered at the Germantown Commissary comes chock-a-block full of stewed tomatoes, green beans, corn, and lima beans, and the restaurant’s signature hickory-smoked pulled pork makes a big island in the middle. You can get a bowl for $5.50 — a generous portion that’s a meal — or as a side dish for $2.50. Crumble in some of the slab of cornbread provided to lend some sweetness to the spicy endeavor. — Greg Akers

The Germantown Commissary, 2290 Germantown Road, 754-5540

The Original Barbecue Pizza at Coletta’s

Eating barbecue pizza in the “Elvis Room” at the original Coletta’s on South Parkway is a singular Memphis experience. The “we can turn anything into barbecue” ethos we celebrate in this issue was arguably born in second-generation owner Horest Coletta’s kitchen in the 1950s. The basic concept — a sturdy, medium-crust cheese pizza topped with smoked pork and barbecue sauce — has become fairly common, especially with chicken, and has probably been improved on. But this where it began. And the atmosphere can’t be beat. The wood paneling and checkerboard tablecloths transport you back to the era of the barbecue pizza’s creation, while the Elvis paraphernalia framed along the walls — which includes the front page of The Commercial Appeal from the day after his death and appears as if it’s been unchanged for decades — pays proper tribute to a former regular who may himself have been among the first to savor this quintessentially Memphis creation. — Chris Herrington

Coletta’s, 1063 South Parkway, 948-7652

Barbecue Portobello Sandwich at Central BBQ

In the beginning there was tofu.

Central BBQ, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary and is on the verge of opening a third location, has well established that barbecue is indeed central with its award-winning ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, and hot wings. From the start, says owner Craig Blondis, they knew they wanted to offer diners a vegetarian option. They tried a barbecue tofu sandwich, but they couldn’t figure out how to keep the tofu from falling apart, so they switched to the heartier Portobello mushroom.

The Portobello is marinated in a mix of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, oregano, thyme, and garlic and then grilled. The sandwich is topped with smoked Gouda, slaw, and the restaurant’s mild barbecue sauce.

Blondis estimates that he sells 30 to 40 of the sandwiches each week. And while he notes that he’s had customers request that the barbecue Portobello sandwich be topped with pork, he says that this one’s for the vegetarians: “It’s for people who don’t eat meat to take part in the experience.” — Susan Ellis

Central BBQ, 2249 Central, 272-9377

BBQ Spaghetti at The Bar-B-Q Shop

If you’re from Memphis, chances are you’re quite familiar with barbecue spaghetti. But outside the Mid-South, this spin on the standard spaghetti side dish is a true novelty. You might think barbecue spaghetti would be a simple concept, merely replacing a traditional Bolognese sauce with barbecue sauce and smoked pork. But, at the BBQ Shop at least, it’s not that simple.

“People think it’s just our sauce and oil,” owner Eric Vernon says, “but it’s not.” Rather, at the Vernon family’s Midtown institution, cooked spaghetti is finished off in a base that’s considerably sweeter than the Shop’s tart sauce and then mixed with an au jus left over from the cooked pork. This infuses the pasta itself with a smoky, sweet flavor entirely unlike the restaurant’s Dancing Pigs sauce, which is added to the top along with a pile of chopped pork. A personal confession: For about three or four bites, I think this is one of the best things ever. But I find it almost too intense for further consumption. It’s perfect for a side. Others have the stamina to make a meal of it. — Chris Herrington

The Bar-B-Q Shop, 1782 Madison, 272-1277

24th Annual ASBEE Kosher BBQ Contest

While the annual Memphis in May barbecue festival was gaining its current international reputation, a parallel local event has also landed a place for itself on the festival map. This one, the annual ASBEE Kosher BBQ Contest, on the sprawling East Memphis grounds of the Anshei Sphard Beth El Emeth Congregation, is held in the fall — at just about that time (October 21st, this year) when fond gustatory memories of the barbecue festival itself may have faded.

Which is to say, the ASBEE event (“the world’s largest,” and maybe the only one of its kind, say the sponsors), while it is genuinely kosher — in that no pork products are served and other dietary restrictions are observed — is open to everyone. As the proprietors put it, “You don’t have to be Jewish or kosher to join us!” 

Competition is usually in three categories, brisket and ribs and beans (yes, beans), with chicken recipes sometimes admitted. Radio legend and longtime Elvis bud George Klein is the emcee, and local celebrities, both Jewish and non-Jewish, serve as judges. A basketball tournament, a pickle-eating contest, and train rides and other frolics for the kiddies complement the eats. Nosh away! — Jackson Baker

1st Annual Cochon Heritage BBQ

When Cochon 555, a sui generis (dare we say, sooey generis?) swine-wine-and-dine event made its first stop in Memphis this year, foodies were beside themselves with joy. So when Cochon founder Brady Lowe announced that the inaugural Cochon Heritage BBQ event would be held in Memphis, we nearly swooned. This Labor Day, chefs, farmers, distillers, wine-makers, and pig-lovers will come together (at a location to be determined) to celebrate the union of heritage pork and whiskey for National Bourbon Month. Tastings, demonstrations, and some good old-fashioned competition will keep festivalgoers entertained while they stuff themselves to the gills with whiskey and pork. Above all, the event is dedicated to bringing heritage breed hogs back into the tradition of barbecue in one of the world’s biggest barbecue cities. — Hannah Sayle

Categories
Best of Memphis Special Sections

Best of Nightlife

Alex Harrison

For a long time, people went to Earnestine & Hazel’s for another kind of box. But now that it’s no longer a brothel, they go there for the jukebox and its selection of classic Motown, blues, jazz, and soul. It goes great with a Soul Burger.

The category “Best Pick-Up Joint” is a fount for interesting
responses. To wit: There were two votes for No Regrets Tattoo
Emporium (second-place winner of “Best Tattoo Parlor” in Goods &
Services). “I always did well at Young Avenue Deli,” one voter
helpfully responded. 201 Poplar got a vote, as did a couple of
places that were too disturbing (and potentially illegal) to include
here. For the voter who entered ”You tell me,” see below.

Justin Fox Burks

Minglewood Hall, 1st place: ‘Best Place To See Live Music’

Best Place to See Live Music

1. Minglewood Hall

2. Hi-Tone Café

3. Mud Island Amphitheatre

Minglewood Hall, located in the old Strings & Things building on
Madison, bounced onto the Memphis music scene with a bang. Boasting a
massive seating area, a fancy raised stage, and plenty of room for
dancing or headbangin’, Minglewood is Midtown’s largest rock venue in
decades. Since opening in February, Minglewood has hosted MGMT, Gwar,
Lucinda Williams, and Of Montreal. Expect plenty more huge acts in the
years to come.

Best Local Band

1. The Dempseys

2. The Sheriffs of Nottingham

3. Lucero

This unique local rockabilly trio is no stranger to fame. Members
Joe Fick, Brad Birkedahl, and Ron Perrone portrayed Johnny Cash’s
back-up band in the 2005 biopic Walk the Line. They even
performed for Japanese prime minister Junichiro Koizumi when he was in
town with President George W. Bush in 2006. So it should come as no
surprise that these local faves placed number one in the Best of
Memphis poll.

Best Local Singer

1. Amy LaVere

2. Harlan T. Bobo

3. Valerie June

Amy LaVere’s trademark Southern twang, accented by the deep rumble
of her upright bass, has made her an unforgettable staple on the
Memphis music scene. She entered the Bluff City in the early ’90s as
part of the Nashville-based Gabe & Amy Show, but she quickly broke
free, establishing her own place in a scene deficient in rootsy
Americana music. These days, she’s all over the place — Craig
Brewer films, the Americana Music Conference, the Austin City Limits
Festival, and tons of local gigs in bars across the city.

Best Karaoke

1. Windjammer Restaurant & Lounge

2. Yosemite Sam’s

3. P&H Café

Despite the tragic shooting of DJ Donald Munsey last year, karaoke
lovers still tout this bar as the best place in Memphis to sing along
to their favorite tunes.

Best Hole in the Wall

1. Earnestine & Hazel’s

2. P&H Café

3. Alex’s

Downstairs, this ages-old bar offers pool, a generous dance floor,
and a jukebox loaded with the classics. Upstairs, curious customers can
explore the rooms that once played host to ladies of the night during
the building’s brothel days. Thankfully, the whole place is very dimly
lit. The sheer age of the building, doubled with years of serving
greasy burgers, gives the place a dingy vibe. Of course, isn’t that
what makes dive bars so special?

Best College Hangout

1. Newby’s

2. RP Tracks

3. Blue Monkey

Newby’s bills itself as the “college bar you never graduate from.”
Truer words have never been spoken. This roomy Highland Strip hangout
attracts an even mix of University of Memphis students, college grads,
and likely a few college dropouts. The crowds gather to hear live
music, play pool, watch the game, or down Newby’s energy cocktail: the
Rock Star.

Justin Fox Burks

Tara White, 1st place: ‘Best Bartender’

Best Bartender

1. Tara White at Celtic Crossing

2. Brian “Skinny” McCabe at Newby’s

3. Brad Pitts at Bari — tie

Michael Luckey at Ciao Bello

Every Monday night at Celtic Crossing, beer lovers descend on the
tiny Midtown pub for $2.50 drafts. Despite the shoulder-to-shoulder
crowds, bartender Tara White manages all the drink orders on her own.
With 15 years experience in bartending, White knows what she’s doing.
Co-workers describe her as a “high-volume bartender” with a loyal
following.

Best After-Hours Club

1. Earnestine & Hazel’s

2. Blue Monkey

3. Alex’s

After a night of sipping wine and gazing at local art on the South
Main trolley tour each month, patrons cram into this downtown dive for
a cold beer and a Soul Burger. Though it’s not open any later than many
downtown bars, Earnestine & Hazel’s makes for the perfect gathering
place after a Beale Street blues show.

Best Pick-up Joint

1. Peabody Rooftop

2. Flying Saucer

3. Blue Monkey

Patrons dressed to impress, a steady flow of cocktails, and live
music to dance to set the stage for seduction at the Peabody’s rooftop
parties.

Best “Cougar” Bar

1. Spindini

2. T.J. Mulligan’s

3. Blue Monkey

Mature ladies on the prowl know they can find hot young hunks at
this South Main restaurant. Spindini boasts upscale dining and
signature cocktails. It’s the kind of place you don’t frequent unless
you’ve got some cash to plop down, making it even more conducive to
attracting young professional men. Ladies, don your best animal print
cami, order a glass of Caldora Pecorino, and reel ’em in. Roar!

Best Beer Selection

BOM 1. Flying Saucer

2. Boscos Squared

3. Young Avenue Deli

Um, duh. Of course the Flying Saucer was voted “Best Beer
Selection.” With more than 200 beers on tap, both the downtown and
Cordova locations have a huge leg over the competition. Need a pale
ale? Check. How about a lager? Got it. Sample trays of beers from
around the world? No problem. Beer and cheese pairings? Got it.

Justin Fox Burks

Peabody Lobby Bar, 1st place: ‘Best Place To Get a Martini’

Best Place To Get a Martini

1. Peabody Lobby Bar

2. Side Street Bar & Grill

3. Beauty Shop

Not only does this historic Memphis hotel serve a tasty dirty
martini, it offers some of the best downtown people-watching. Order a
‘tini and plop down in a comfy chair in the hotel lobby. You won’t even
need a friend to chat with or a newspaper to scan. Just watch the
tourists and rooftop partygoers as they amble about the hotel.
Fascinating!

Best Place To Get a Margarita

1. Molly’s La Casita

2. Happy Mexican

3. Café Ole

Molly’s La Casita is a Midtown institution when it comes to Mexican
food, so it’s only fitting their margaritas would find a place, as
well.

Best Happy Hour

1. Chili’s Grill & Bar

2. Flying Saucer

3. Boscos Squared

Okay, yes, Chili’s is a chain restaurant. But if that’s a problem,
you just need to get over it, because their happy hour is two-for-one
and it lasts all day. And you don’t even have to ask. Finish one drink,
and before you even nod at the bartender, there’s another.

Best Dance Club

1. Hollywood Disco

2. Club 152 Beale

3. Backstreet

Is it the light-up dance floor? The lone pole in the corner? The
smoke machines? All of it. It’s the Hollywood Disco

Best Place To Shoot Pool

1. Fox & Hound English Tavern

2. Young Avenue Deli

3. RP Billiards

Want a casual place to make a nice, clean break? According to
Flyer readers, the Fox & Hound English Tavern is the place
to go for eight-ball, nine-ball, and all sorts of billiards. Fox &
Hound has good grub, multiple pay-by-the-hour tables, and a full bar.
What more do you need? Just remember to call your pocket.

Best Sports Bar

1. Fox & Hound English Tavern

2. Buffalo Wild Wings

3. T.J. Mullligan’s

Maybe it’s because our readers consider pool a sport, or maybe it’s
because of all the televisions. Either way, the Fox & Hound is also
the “Best Sports Bar.”

Best Gay Bar

1. Backstreet

2. The Pumping Station

3. Metro

Backstreet has been our readers’ fave for years, but don’t try to go
right now. The Midtown bar was closed at the beginning of September
after a police operation uncovered gambling and the unlawful sale of
alcohol. At press time, the court date for Backstreet owner Shane Trice
had been re-scheduled, but he’s vowed that the club will reopen.

Best New Bar

1. Bardog Tavern

2. Silly Goose

3. Dru’s Place — tie

Paula and Raiford’s Disco

Sometimes you just want to sit and stay. Bardog is a perfect place
to do just that. A new favorite downtown, Bardog is a two-story bar
with a neighborhood feel, an Italian-influenced menu, and a cute
logo.

Categories
Cover Feature News

Meatless ‘Cue

In the land of dry rub ribs and pulled pork, it seems that a
vegetarian would be out of luck. But a handful of Memphis restaurants
offer meatless alternatives to the traditional pork-based ‘cue.

Central BBQ’s portabella sandwich features a giant marinated,
char-grilled mushroom, which the cooks generously coat with tangy
barbecue sauce. The result? A messy, almost-meaty sandwich that
prevents vegetarians from feeling left out when dining with their
omnivore friends. (Vegans should request no coleslaw or cheese since
those come on the sandwich.)

R.P. Tracks on Walker Avenue serves up large fried cubes of sweet
‘n’ tangy barbecue tofu in three ways: on nachos, in a burrito, or
piled onto a bun. Their BBQ Tofu Nachos are likely the most popular
vegan menu item in town — black beans, tangy barbecue tofu,
lettuce, tomatoes, jalapenos, and salsa top crispy, seasoned tortilla
chips.

The BBQ Tofu Burrito features a similar list of ingredients, plus
rice, stuffed into a larger-than-one-person-should-eat tortilla. Tofu
cubes meet coleslaw on a bun with their BBQ Tofu sandwich, but be
warned: It’s nearly impossible to fit into your mouth. I typically take
the top bun off and eat the sandwich open-faced.

Downtown’s Déjà Vu Creole Soul Food and Vegetarian
Restaurant specializes in both vegan and meaty Southern staples, so it
follows that they make a mean platter of sweet and spicy barbecue tofu.
Fried tofu cubes are smothered in sauce and served with a choice of two
sides, among them citrus spinach, garlic roasted potatoes, smothered
okra, and fried cabbage.

Not only does vegetarian barbecue save little piggies from
slaughter, it’s also lower in saturated fat.

But both meat and non-meat barbecue have at least one thing in
common: You’re going to need a wet nap.