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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Fresh Starts

When Crumpets closed in December, Mac Edwards, the original restaurateur behind McEwen’s on Monroe, jumped at the opportunity to open a new restaurant in the space. The Elegant Farmer, a name that highlights Edwards’ farm-to-table vision, will bring “elevated comfort food” to Highland near Central.

Edwards (who no longer is associated with McEwen’s), also was involved in the revival of Bon Ton Café, will now focus his efforts on the Elegant Farmer and using locally sourced goods as much as possible. He already has identified a number of local purveyors he hopes to do business with: Neola Farms for larded pork roast with cornbread pudding and red bean cassoulet with ham and sausage; Sparkling River Pepper Company for red chile sauce; Lake’s Catfish Company for pan-seared catfish with smoked tomato broth and macaroni and cheese; Delta Pecans for a chunky pecan butter and jelly sandwich. Tortillas, pita bread, and all other breads will be local as well.

“I’m not sure exactly whose bread I’ll use the most of,” Edwards says, “but it will be Shoaf’s Loaf and Cucina Breads.”

Edwards and his chef de cuisine Gannon Hamilton also are working on dishes such as salmon patties with spicy remoulade, an old-fashioned chicken pot pie, an oven-roasted caprese salad with heirloom tomatoes and homemade ricotta, and potato pancakes with homemade applesauce and blue cheese crème fraîche.

Because there are only a few aesthetic changes to be made to the former tearoom, Edwards hopes to be open by mid-March. He also plans to apply for Project Green Fork certification.

The Elegant Farmer will serve lunch Monday through Saturday and may extend the hours to include dinner in the future. Entrées will run from $10 to $12.

The Elegant Farmer, 262 S. Highland

(324-2221)

Tim Foley, formerly of Blue Fish and The Reef in Cooper-Young, has taken over as the new head chef at Sharky’s Gulf Grill in East Memphis. Foley brings a more streamlined menu and a fresh start for Sharky’s, which opened in 2009.

In just three months, Foley has reined in the menu, keeping it more in line with his personal style: more comfort food, fewer fried items, light on sauce, and healthier. “I consider myself a seafood chef,” he says. “The biggest thing is to highlight the seafood. Too many people cover it up with heavy flavors.”

Foley says all his plates and sauces are made to order, and he does all his own cuts in-house from the whole fish. Some of his signature dishes, which will be new to Sharky’s patrons, are jambalaya, a more traditional shrimp and grits, and his home-style macaroni and cheese. He also has expanded the sushi menu, adding 10 new rolls. His favorite? The OMG roll made with shrimp tempura and cream cheese and topped with smoked salmon, masago, green onions, eel sauce, and spicy mayonnaise.

“For not being a sushi bar, we have an expansive menu for sushi,” Foley says. “It’s in the realm of 30 to 40 rolls.”

Sharky’s Gulf Grill, 6201 Poplar

(682-9796)

sharkysgulfgrill.com

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Think Big

At the opening party for Stella Marris, Steve Cooper‘s
new restaurant and lounge in Cordova, the menus were stacked in neat
rows near the entrance. The dinner menu described 14 seafood
entrées, plus 11 different steaks and chops. Next came the
late-night fare: sliders, small plates, and a choice of deep-fried
finger foods (alligator, oysters, fried green tomatoes, pepper jack
cheese). Finally, the third menu listed desserts, including warm apple
crisp and 23 cordials and cognacs priced from $7 to $225.

“Wow,” I thought, before scooping up an ahi tuna carpaccio from a
passing tray. “This is ambitious.”

Thanks to executive chef Derk Meitzler, the food at Stella
Marris — Latin for “star of the sea” — is a seamless match
for the size and scope of the place, which offers 15,000 square feet of
lavish décor, seating for over 300 customers, private dining
rooms, two kitchens, and separate tanks for Maine and spiney
lobsters.

In fact, the menu’s mix of seafood and steaks has a nostalgic
appeal, much like the restaurants favored in the 1950s when a side of
potato au gratin could feed an entire table.

“I’m partial to big steaks and big sides,” said Meitzler, who grew
up near Chicago. “I have great memories of eating at restaurants like
Win Schular’s with my grandparents, where they would bring you those
big crocks of cheese.”

Add in Meitzler’s love of Southern and Creole cooking, and the
entrées at Stella Marris are an appealing mix of old and new.
The wild salmon, for example, is broiled and finished with barbecue
hollandaise sauce. “I throw in the Memphis dry rub,” Meitzler said.

Side dishes are updated, as well. The crawfish mac-and-cheese is a
crowd-pleaser (don’t ask for the recipe; it’s top-secret), and the
sweet potatoes are combined with alligator sausage hash.

“We’re Southern-driven with Northern influences,” Meitzler said. “I
play off the idea of Route 61: Start in New Orleans and go north.”

The restaurant’s late-night menu has similar influences but fewer,
and less expensive, choices. Small plates such as fish tacos and hot
wings run $8 to $10 and are served from 10 p.m. until the lounge closes
at 2 a.m. on weekdays and 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Stella Marris, 7955 Fischer Steel, Cordova (755-5553),
stellamarris.net

You can order an 18-ounce rib-eye or a Buckhead filet mignon at
Sharky’s Gulf Grill in East Memphis, but the entrées are
the only reminder of the building’s longtime former tenant, Steak and
Ale.

Under the direction of John Golon, the restaurant on Poplar
Avenue opened last month with a Caribbean-style decor and a focus on
coastal cuisine.

“We’ve taken the kind of seafood restaurant we love at the beach and
moved it to Memphis,” Golon said.

Sharky’s started with dinner service seven days a week and added
lunch two weeks ago. “We didn’t want to open for lunch until we got our
sea legs under us,” Golon said. “I just love to say that!”

For lunch and dinner, seafood is the grill’s mainstay and buying
from day boats ensures a sustainable and fresh supply.

“Traditionally, fishermen go out for seven to 14 days depending on
how long it takes to fill up the boat,” Golon explained. “Day boats
leave in the late afternoon, fish all night, and call in their catch to
brokers. The fish is purchased before the boat gets back to the
dock.”

For Sharky’s customers, day-boat suppliers mean “what’s on your
plate was swimming two days ago,” Golon said. The restaurant’s list of
fresh catch also changes day to day. Last Thursday, choices priced from
$19 to $23 included mahi-mahi, swordfish, salmon, and cobia, a coastal
fish appreciated for its texture and flavor.

Thanks to head chef Lance Morton, a Gulf Coast influence
directs the menu, from the Apalachicola oysters baked five ways to the
grouper Pontchartrain, a grilled dish topped with soft-shell crab and
béarnaise sauce. Sharky’s also offers sushi and coastal
cocktails like “Pineapple Martini” and “Miami Vice.”