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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Restaurants Ring in the New Year

Jimmy “Sushi Jimmi” Sinh introduced his new menu January 7th at his Poke Paradise restaurant at 6343 Summer Avenue, Suite 110.

He’s added more items, including some of his weekly specials. “I’m doing the same thing I always do,” Sinh says. “Fusing my food up a little bit. Asian fusion.”

Sinh plans to add another item in about a week. “We’re a city that loves barbecue, and I have this cool pulled pork sandwich that will be really good for Memphis.”

With influences from Memphis, Asia, and Hawaii, the sandwich will be “the normal jumbo pulled pork sandwich we love here, but the sauce and seasoning will have more of an Asian twist to it.”

The Hawaiian influence is “how the sauce is cooked. The ingredients in the sauce. It will also have a slice of pineapple on it as well as the pulled pork.”

In the coming weeks, Sinh, who has served lunch to patrons who requested it since the restaurant opened, will introduce his official lunch menu featuring smaller portions from the dinner menu. “And we are also offering soups and salads with our lunch menu.”

Sinh also is beefing up his catering business. He plans to do “more than sushi and poke” and to offer a pho bar featuring Vietnamese cuisine.

Sinh’s catering business isn’t limited to corporate events or large venues. “It can be anywhere. If you don’t have a kitchen, no worries. We can bring everything there.”

• Executive chef Nate Henssler has a lot going on in 2025 at Amelia Gene’s Restaurant at 255 South Front Street.

They’re going to take advantage of the success of their special Thursday Tasting Dinner by continuing their thematic approach to the five-course dinners, Henssler says. In homage to the Lunar New Year, which is coming up at the end of January, they’re going to offer a “fun tasting menu” featuring a Chinese-Thailand tasting menu “but using Amelia Gene’s products and Amelia Gene’s presentation.”

The Thursday night tastings are “very popular,” Henssler says. “Every Thursday, we’re seeing between 30 and 45 of these guests coming in for a five-course meal.”

He says, “We’ve also started to put a wine pairing on the tasting menu, and we added a cocktail pairing. We’re continuing to evolve that. We’re going to expand our spirit-free cocktails as well.”

Henssler adds, “Our guests have really enjoyed discovering our expansive wine list, thanks to our general manager Jessica [Henssler].”

Henssler plans to offer rare or special wines by the glass or half glass, like the popular 2015 Dom Perignon champagne they served during the holidays. “On weekends we will open a special bottle. And we’ll let people know.”

Diners will be able to enjoy this wine by purchasing a glass instead of the whole bottle. 

Amelia Gene’s, which does two menus a year, will launch the new one in the latter part of January.

They’re working on getting some live lobsters in and, instead of shrimp and grits, maybe doing a lobster and grits dish using a whole live Maine lobster.

They are currently offering a special hamburger at the bar. Henssler is thinking about offering a “New England-style lobster roll” instead of the burger for a limited time. “Something for the guests that they can only get at the bar.”

“I’ll be sourcing live lobsters from New Bedford, Massachusetts. I’m from New Hampshire, so that’s mother’s milk to me.”

During the holidays, they turned their cheese cart into a dessert trolley for a couple of weeks. It was “wildly popular,” he says. He’s planning to do more limited-time dessert carts. Their dessert chef Jessi Derenburger is “super creative.”

In short, Henssler says, “For 2025, we want to keep pushing creativity. We want to show our guests that fine dining can be very fun. Quirky dishes. And that starts on the Thursday tasting menu.”

His goal is to “just keep pushing forward. We’re got an amazing team. I truly believe we have the best team in Memphis. And we’re just going to keep getting better.”

• Carlee McCullough is looking west during 2025. Not as in cowboy hats and boots, but sunsets.

McCullough is the owner of Mahogany River Terrace, which arguably has the best view of sunsets on the Mississippi River. It’s the ideal place to sip wine or a cocktail and dine on an elegant meal while viewing the waning sun.

“Sunset and Champagne” is slated to launch in the middle of January at the restaurant at 280 Island Drive, McCullough says. “Basically, what we’ll do every day is we’ll check and see when the sunset is expected,” she says. “We’ll be posting on social media.”

They will feature discounted rates on champagne and appetizers.

They’re currently focusing on their prix fixe dinners, which they will feature on Valentine’s Day at Mahogany River Terrace as well as McCullough’s other restaurant, Mahogany Memphis at 3092 Poplar Avenue, Suite 11, in Chickasaw Oaks mall. They always have steak options at both restaurants, but for Valentine’s Day they will offer a rib eye and lobster pairing at Mahogany Memphis and a tomahawk steak and lobster pairing with crab cakes at Mahogany River Terrace, where the fare is more seafood-oriented.

McCullough also is getting ready for the warm weather. “In summertime we are poised to be very popular because of the patio.”

They will feature food specials. And, she says, “We’re going to be very big on champagne.”

She’s partnered with a distributor to offer Veuve Clicquot champagne. “We’ve talked about ‘Veuve Clicquot Wednesdays.’”

That will include appetizers and live music, she says. And, of course, “There’s not a bad seat in the house.”

As for Mahogany Memphis, McCullough wants people to know that the restaurant hasn’t closed just because she opened Mahogany River Terrace. The restaurant is “still going strong,” she says. “We’ve still got fabulous food.”

Chickasaw Oaks is “such a quaint mall,” McCullough says. “You don’t even know you’re in Memphis when you’re in that mall.”

• The dining room is open again at SideStreet Burgers at 9199 MS-178 in Olive Branch, Mississippi.

“It closed for Covid, obviously, a long time ago now,” says owner Jonathan Mah. Customers picked up their orders outside. Mah used the dining room area for storage and as a prep area. “Since then we made room for the storage and prep area. And we renovated the dining room with some tile floors.”

They opened up the dining room last August to make room for more tables. It now seats 20 people.

Mah plans to get a vent hood for the stove. “So, we can do grilled burgers. And possibly add a fryer.”

They’ve never sold grilled hamburgers, he says. “We’ve always baked our burgers in a convection oven, which is very unorthodox in a burger joint. We started 13 years ago and that’s all the money we had. So, we just kind of stuck with it. That’s what we had to use, so we had to be more creative with how we season our burgers.”

Baking the meat “keeps them juicy, for sure.” But a griddle would help sear the outside of the meat and keep the juices in, he says.

They want a fryer so they can start selling French fries, which they’ve never offered. They use roasted potatoes instead, which they will continue to offer as well as the fries.

In addition to hamburgers, Mah says, “We want to completely revamp our menu and put some more fun stuff on the menu. Maybe Philly cheesesteaks or Cubans. Or bring back some sandwiches like the bánh mì, a Vietnamese sandwich. You normally would have pâté on there, but we would do some sort of Vietnamese marinated pork, pickled cucumbers, jalapeños, pickled carrots, and cilantro.”

Mah adds, “The economy is so tough you have to be creative to draw in more customers and new customers.”

As for his other restaurant, OB Pizza Company at 9215 MS-178, Mah says, “In addition to our pizza and our wings and pizza by the slice, we’re hoping to add some gelato up there.” 

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Simply Delicious: SideStreet Burgers

It’s like Jonathan Mah had to become a restaurant owner.

Mah, 42, owner of SideStreet Burgers in Olive Branch, Mississippi, spent most of his life in restaurants.

“My dad started a restaurant probably when I was 10 or 11,” Mah says. “His first restaurant was Cafe Arcadia in the Collierville town square. It had steaks, and they had a buffet where they did some Southern food.”

His parents at one time ran two restaurants simultaneously. “My mom had her Cafe Magnolia in Olive Branch. My dad did his in Horn Lake, Evan’s Cafe. Both on Goodman Road.

“I had to work all the time after school in the restaurants. Cooking, cleaning — you name it, I had to do it. It wasn’t always that fun to me at the time, but that was my background. We liked to eat, and my parents had restaurants. So, when I went to college, it was the only thing that felt comfortable.”

Mah majored in hotel-restaurant management at the University of Tennessee at Knoxville.

His parents cooked at home, says Mah, who was born in Greenville, Mississippi. “My mom did quite a bit and my dad usually grilled out. Being a Chinese family, my grandmother lived with us for many years. So, she was stir-frying and cooking a lot, as well.

“We didn’t have the typical breakfast you grow up eating, cereal and things like that. We had dumplings for breakfast. And we put a little bit of soy sauce and sesame oil in our hot oatmeal.”

But his parents didn’t serve Chinese food at their restaurants. “For some reason they just didn’t cook it. They cooked Southern food.” His mother served “peach cobbler and her amazing brisket. Mashed potatoes and gravy. Fresh fried okra. And my dad did something similar on his side of town, but just in his own style.”

Mah went for hamburgers instead of Asian when he opened SideStreet Burgers May 12, 2012.

His dad gave him the building. “I was confined by a small budget and the small building. I said, ‘Well, you know what? Let’s just keep it simple. Start with burgers and potatoes.’ A good Angus burger we hand-patted and red potatoes.”

Mah added other items, including the Fat Panda — “Korean marinated beef tenderloin” — the Mother Clucker chicken sandwich, Jake’s Chicken Nachos, Blackened Mahi Fish Tacos, and the Whatchu Talkin’ Bout patty melt.”

They offer other hamburgers, but The Street Burger is their signature. “We take cheddar cheese and slice it daily. So, it’s right off a cheddar loaf, probably a quarter-inch thick of cheese, and [add] a little garlic mayo.”

Five years ago, Mah and Derric Curran, owner of Mississippi Ale House, which is next door, teamed up. “That’s a craft ale house. They brew their own beers and get other beers from Mississippi.”

SideStreet Burgers doesn’t offer in-house dining. “Customers pick up their food and they go over to the Ale House and drink beer and listen to live music.”

Mah also added his OB Pizza Co. inside Mississippi Ale House. “Hand-tossed pizzas cooked on pizza stone. Fun pizzas like our White Castle Pizza, Fat Panda Philly, and Taco Pizza.”

Also at that restaurant, he says, “We have amazing whole wings marinated in hot chili oil and tossed in wing sauce. We call them Kung Fu Wings.”

Mah finally broke the chain and added hints of Chinese cuisine at SideStreet Burgers. “I always try to infuse a little Asian into my meat.”

He prepares Chinese food on occasion as “ghost pop-ups,” which people can order on his Facebook page.

But Asian food isn’t what his customers want at SideStreet Burgers. Or other items Mah tried, including a “wedge salad with some really good blue cheese” and a “curried chicken wrap.”

“If they sell, we keep it on as long as we can go. If it doesn’t, we move on to something else and bring our customers another taste of something else we’ve created.”

SideStreet Burgers is at 9199 MS-178 in Olive Branch; (901) 596-4749.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Local Chefs Do BBQ: Part 2

Since May is the month of the big “B” in Memphis, more area chefs share their thoughts on barbecuing. After all, this is Memphis. Barbecuing is sort of second nature. Right?

Miles Tamboli, owner of Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza: “I made a barbecue pasta sauce that I’m really proud of to this day. I broke down barbecue sauce to its basic flavors and recreated it from scratch using Italian ingredients. Tomato base, caramelized onions, garlic confit, red wine, balsamic vinegar, smoked paprika, anchovy, and some more stuff. Tasted just like barbecue sauce. We tossed bucatini in it and topped it with seared sous vide pork belly from Home Place Pastures and nasturtium micros. It was excellent.”

Karen Carrier, chef/owner of restaurants, including The Beauty Shop: “Applewood smoked barbecued char siu salmon with crystallized ginger, candied lemon zest, and an avocado, watermelon, radish, and orange supreme relish.”

Joseph Michael Garibaldi Jr., Garibaldi’s Pizza owner: “We use a combination of fine- and medium-chopped hickory smoked pork shoulder and combine it with just the right amount of our sweet and sour sauce for it to caramelize the brown sugar on top and keep the pork moist and tender. … Our fresh, hand-tossed crust, signature fresh-packed tomato pizza sauce, and shredded mozzarella cheese provide a perfect base for the perfect barbecue pizza.”

Andy Knight, chef at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar: “Opening Loflin Yard and Carolina Watershed — both on Carolina Avenue — I attempted Carolina barbecue with a Memphis twist. I would cook the butts Carolina style — vinegar-based — then lather them up later with a rich Memphis-style sauce. Both locations were successful, but could never beat Memphis-style. From vinegar-based pork butts to 12-hour smoked beef brisket, nothing beats the dry rub and a rich barbecue sauce of Memphis-style barbecue.”

Betty Joyce “B.J.” Chester-Tamayo, chef-owner of Alcenia’s: “Barbecued chicken. I bake it first if I’m doing it at the restaurant. Sometimes I marinate it overnight with my Italian dressing.”

She also uses her eight seasonings, including Italian dressing, fresh rosemary, and even some of her homemade apple butter. She adds her barbecue sauce when serving. “I take barbecue sauce from the store and add my own ingredients: lemon juice, ketchup, Lipton onion soup mix, and other seasonings.”

Jonathan Mah, chef/owner SideStreet Burgers in Olive Branch, Mississippi: “My signature is the Korean barbecue — Le Fat Panda. My favorite cut is the pork steak marinated in Korean flavors and grilled. It’s a soy-based marinade with honey and mirin, green onions, and sugar, as well as sesame oil. Red pepper flakes for a little spice. Chargrilling is my favorite so that you burn that sugar a little bit on the grill. That’s the best part, to me.”

Jeffrey Zepatos, owner of The Arcade Restaurant: “We used to do barbecue at the Arcade. And we had a barbecued grilled cheese sandwich. So, I’d stick to something along those lines. Smoked pulled pork barbecue on Texas toast with a smoked cheddar cheese to top it off. Now we obviously don’t have smokers at the Arcade, so I was buying a great pork shoulder from a local vendor that we could heat up on our griddle. I think that was fun because it added flavor from our griddle to the barbecue, which gave it a unique taste from all the bacon and sausage we cook on it.”

Mario Gagliano, Libro chef/owner: “I’m from Memphis and I only know pork ribs with that classic vinegary Memphis sauce. All I’d do is take some baby backs and massage them with a nice dry rub, lightly sear it on low heat so as not to burn the sugars in the rub. Flip them and render some of that flavor off the bone. Then halfway submerge the ribs in boiling pork stock. Cover in foil and cook in the oven for a couple hours on 400 degrees. Remove them, brush some Memphis barbecue sauce and broil for a few minutes. Essentially, braising the pork, but it falls off the bone, super tender and moist. And you can find it cooked just like this at Libro at Laurelwood all through the month of May, baby.”