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Totally Skewered!

It’s high summer in Memphis. The sun beats down without mercy. Your car is hot. Your pets are hot. You’re hot — and not in a good, sexy way.

It’s even too hot for silverware and dishes. You want your food fast and convenient. You want it on a stick. Don’t lie. You know you do.

Your faithful Flyer staffers have combed the city to find the best foods on a stick in town. We may have missed a few — probably even some good ones — but we’re too hot to care. And what we did find is good, spanning the gauntlet from savory to sweet, from meaty to seafood to vegan. Stick with us.

Lobster Pronto Pup at Rizzo’s Diner …

Justin Fox Burks

Mainers talk lobster like we talk barbecue, normally and informally. But lobster language needed a Memphis translator here, so Chef Michael Patrick stepped in. The Rizzo’s Diner owner battered and fried lobster meat, put it on a stick, and drizzled it in mustard.

Yes, Memphians, he made you a Pronto Pup, something we can all understand. 

Rizzo’s Lobster Pronto Pup ($14) consists of two “pups” on a bed of mixed spring greens and a side of Creole mustard aioli. It probably would have made a nice salad, but, when it comes to pups, the stick is the shtick. So, I went with it still skewered. 

The batter was light and perfectly fried, with brown hues ranging from Twinkie to Oreo. The meat delivered its delicate, briny-sweet flavor, though it was a bit chewier in the pup than pulling it straight from the claw or tail. The aioli was a luxurious blend of mayonnaise and enough coarse ground mustard to be present but not hot. The dish was two things at once: thrilling and familiar, just exactly like you think a Lobster Pronto Pup would be. — Toby Sells

492 S. Main, 304-6985, rizzosmemphis.com 

Skewers at Skewer …

Justin Fox Burks

Food-on-a-stick central in Memphis is Skewer. Come on, the name of the place says it all. So what’s being stuck at Skewer? Beef, pork, salmon, chicken, shrimp, lamb, scallops, and all kinds of vegetables make up the yakitori section of the menu — some 32 choices in all. That’s not to mention the kushikatsu — Japanese-breaded and deep-fried — options. There are also “sets” you can order that include a number of skewers plus sushi — Butcher Shop and Veggie-tation, among them.

The lightly breaded tofu kushikatsu is creamy inside and comes with a sweet and tart dipping sauce with a tanginess that recalls barbecue sauce. The okra yakitori is still slightly slimy when warm (deal with it) and is served with an umami-rich miso sauce. The pretty mixed-veggie yakitori with squash, red pepper, and zucchini looks like a lollipop.

… and Chiwawa

Chiwawa recently updated its menu. Out is the Bianca Dog (boo!), and in are skewers (yay!). You have four to choose from: chicken with blackened bell peppers and onion; steak with chimichurri sauce and peppers; grilled shrimp with purple onion; and herb-roasted red potatoes.

I went for the potatoes. There’s nothing wrong with simplicity — just enough salt, just enough oil, the potatoes cooked to perfection and sprinkled with dried parsley. The plate comes garnished with an excellent aioli-like sauce with a deep pepper taste (chipotle?). It’s more of a flourish, really. There should be more for dipping. — Susan Ellis

Skewer: 5101 Sanderlin, 682-9919, skewermemphis.com

Chiwawa: 2059 Madison, 207-1456, chiwawamidtown.com

Steak Stick and Grilled Chicken and Pineapple Kabob at Huey’s …

Besides the World Famous Huey Burger and the classic Brownie ‘a la mode, the Steak Stick has been a staple of the Huey’s menu since time immemorial. The bite-sized chunks of tender beef are inundated in a soy-based marinade before being grilled to order. It comes in snack or dinner size with your choice of side. Served with fries, it’s a comforting variation on the classic European steak frites.

Huey’s other stick-based delectable is a combo of chicken and pineapple that, like its beef-based menu mate, is marinated as a unit until it’s tossed on the grill. But the marinade in this case is teriyaki-based. I surprised myself by preferring the Grilled Chicken and Pineapple Kabob to the Steak Stick. If you’re into onion rings, Huey’s makes some of the best, and they make for the perfect accompaniment to this delicious protein pylon. — Chris McCoy

8 Locations in the Memphis Metro Area, hueyburger.com

Holy Land Shish Kabob at Casablanca …

Justin Fox Burks

Like everything else at Casablanca, the Holy Land Kabob is made with care. In the case of something as simple as chicken and onion on a skewer, attention to detail matters. The chicken chunks are uniform in size and cooked to juicy perfection. But the secret ingredient is the mango-based sauce that is a house specialty at Casablanca, which is brushed on just prior to the meat hitting the heat. Try this outstanding dish at Casablanca’s second location, which will be opening on Madison by the end of August, Insha’Allah. — CM

5030 Poplar, 725-8557, casablancamemphis.com.

Tofu Kabobs at The Blue Nile/Stickem …

Justin Fox Burks

As a vegan, I’m kind of a tofu connoisseur. And I can tell you that the tofu impaled on the kabob skewers at the new Blue Nile and its sister food truck, Stickem, is, hands down, the best in town. Each kabob is made with six or seven cubes of perfectly prepared tofu. It’s crispy on the outside and peppered with black char-grilled marks, and the inside is chewy and firm in all the ways that tofu should be.

The flavor is hard to pinpoint, but it’s savory and smoky from the grill. And there are no vegetables on these kabobs. Because let’s be honest — that would just steal precious space on the stick for more tofu.

Besides, the Tofu Kabob Platter at the Blue Nile comes with a mix of sautéed broccoli, carrots, and squash on the side, as well as steamed white rice. If you’re ordering the kabobs from the Stickem food truck, there’s no rice on the side, but you can order veggies, or you can say, “To hell with health food,” and opt for a side of fries. I mean, fries are potatoes. And potatoes are veggies, right? Add some ketchup for dipping, and you’ve got a balanced meal. — Bianca Phillips

1788 Madison, 474-7214, @StickemFood

Corn Dog at Oshi Burger Bar …

If you’re like most Memphians, when you see the word “corn dog,” you think Mid-South Fair, and that evokes a bunch of other memories — olfactory, gustatory, and visual. The classic Pronto Pup fair dog usually features a generic hot dog wrapped in a smooth, doughy casing. You dip that tasty cylinder in mustard (or ketchup, if you’re an inferior person), shove it in your piehole, and then head off to the Tilt-a-Whirl.

Oshi’s corn dog ($9) is a different breed altogether. First, it’s massive, coated with a rough-hewn, crusty, flour batter that’s blended with jalapeños and cheese. The dog looks like it’s covered in bark, and it’s got bark. The meat itself has a nice pedigree — Waygu American Kobe beef — and it’s accompanied by a side of tasty cheese mustard. It’s a simple presentation, but this corn dog will fill you up and then some. — Bruce VanWyngarden

94 S. Main, 341-2091, oshiburger.com

Las Tortugas’ Elote Con Cotija y Mayonesa …

Justin Fox Burks

Sweet summer corn is nearly perfect on its own, but it’s even better slathered in rich Duke’s mayonnaise, rolled in salty Cotija cheese, and seasoned with lime juice, kosher salt, and crushed chilies — and it’s all served on a stick to boot. This is Mexican street food at its finest.

The best local iteration of this Oaxacan dish can be found at Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana in Germantown ($4.50). “What makes our version unique is the freshness of ingredients, the care with which it was made, and the skill of the person who made it,” says owner Jonathan Magallanes, who cooked at the James Beard House in New York City last year. “Our corn is steamed to order, so it’s piping hot,” he adds.

You either already love this dish, or you just haven’t tried it yet. — Justin Fox Burks and Amy Lawrence

1215 S. Germantown, 751-1200, delimexicana.com

Skewers at Robata Ramen and Yakitori …

There is beauty in simplicity. Like a tasty Nasu dengaku or shishito pepper yakatori lightly charred on a hot robata. If you don’t believe us, you must go try a few of the skewers at Robata Ramen and Yakitori.

“Yakitori” is simply the Japanese word for skewered food, and a robata is a traditional Japanese grill. So all we’re talking about here is grilled food on a stick. If you’re going to do something that simple, you’d better do it right.

Robata has an entire page of its menu devoted to yakatori, with prices ranging from $1.75 to $8.50. We tend to gravitate toward the vegetable skewers section, with prime choices like the aforementioned Nasu dengaku, which is umami-rich, grilled Japanese eggplant with miso, or eringi, which is commonly known as a king oyster mushroom. The one not to miss is the garlic skewer. The robata transforms the cloves into sweet, smoky morsels that are great on their own. And the Kewpie mayo on the side will skewer you over the top. — JFB and AL

2116 Madison, 410-8290, robatamemphis.com

SWEETS ON A STICK

Paletas at La Michoacana …

On a hot summer day, there are few things better than a chili, cucumber, and lime-flavored paleta from La Michoacana ($2.13). It’s a little sweet and a little sour and full of tiny refreshing chunks of frozen cucumber that explode when you bite into them. The chili pepper flakes aren’t evident at first, but the more you nibble, the more your lips will start to tingle. It’s a wild balancing act: perfection on a stick.

Paletas are Mexican popsicles, and the freezer at La Michoacana is an eye-popping wonderland of colorful handmade treats in flavors that range from coconut and avocado to pine nut, rice pudding, and mango with raspberry sauce. Occasionally they’ll even toss in a special flavor experiment like rose.

On a recent visit I sampled a variety of flavors including a tart tamarind paleta, a tasty coffee-flavored paleta stuffed with Mexican chocolate, and a rich caramel paleta stuffed with dulce de leche.

La Michoacana can be packed even in the winter. In the summer months you’ll be lucky if you can find a place to sit. But no matter how busy things may get at this family-owned business, service is always speedy. You’ll be made to feel like you’re the only customer in the joint. — Chris Davis

Several locations, including

4091 Summer, 590-1901

MEMPops All-Natural Handcrafted Pops …

Justin Fox Burks

When we asked Chris Taylor, owner and pop maker at MEMPopS, why he struck out on his own after years of working for others in restaurant kitchens, he replied, “I just really wanted to make things that people love.”

Well, he’s certainly done that, with flavors like Roasted Peach, Sweet Cherry, Apricot Lavender, Watermelon Basil, Blackberry with Yogurt and Honey, and Spicy Pineapple. His handcrafted popsicles ($3) are all-natural and made with seasonal, often locally sourced ingredients. What started as a passion has grown quickly. “I figured I’d go for it, and I got a really positive response,” he said.

Taylor began selling his creations from a cart at the Tennessee Brewery Revival this spring. Last week, he unveiled his newly renovated MEMPopS truck at the Memphis Made brewery on Cooper. — JFB and AL

MEMpopS (mobile popsicle cart and truck), 569-6293, @MEMpops

Rock Candy from Dinstuhl’s …

Rock candy is a sugar lover’s dream, and it’s been around since the U.S. was young, when its simplicity allowed early-American colonists to make it as a treat for the wealthy. It’s literally sugar and water, heated to crystallize the sugar. At Dinstuhl’s, where candy is a form of art, rock candy isn’t just a series of heating processes — it’s a delicious, old-as-time candy on a stick that folks can’t resist. For $1.95, you get two sticks of original white rock candy in a bag. The only problem may be an upcoming visit to the dentist; make sure to floss. — Alexandra Pusateri

Several locations, including 436 S. Grove Park, 682-3373, dinstuhls.com

Cookie-on-a-Stick from Whimsy Cookie Company …

Whimsy Cookie is locally famous for its Grizzlies-themed cookies, but the company offers a wide selection of other delights, including cookies on a stick ($4). The cookies taste just like your grandmother’s, wrapped in tradition and sprinkled with love, soft enough to satisfy and firm enough to stand up for themselves, with or without frosting. Makes you wonder why we didn’t start doing this a long time ago. — AP

4704 Poplar, 343-0709, whimsycookieco.com

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

The things we ate in 2014.

Last winter, Holly Whitfield of the I Love Memphis Blog announced that Memphis is in the midst of a spectacular “Foodnado.” How apt! My cursory count of restaurants, breweries, and sundry food-related places that opened in 2014 adds up to 40, and not all of them in Overton Square.

But, then again, a lot of them are in Overton Square. Babalu Tacos & Tapas opened in June, offering tableside-prepared guacamole and lots of sharing plates. The place has been packed since. In August came Jimmy Ishii’s Robata Ramen & Yakitori Bar with a fine menu of ramen noodle bowls and skewers. Lafayette’s Music Room, an homage to the original much-loved, circa-’70s Overton Square bar named for the recently passed away ace bartender Lafayette Draper, opened in September and features wood-fired pizzas and a music schedule set at palatable hours. Schweinehaus, a cheeky Memphis take on German food, also opened in September. There’s beer, brats, and the occasional lederhosen sighting — what’s not to like? If you need olive oil, there’s the Square Olive, and there’s more music and fun at the Chicago-based Zebra Lounge.

Justin Fox Burks

Robata Ramen & Yakitori Bar

The most recent addition to Overton Square is Belly Acres, a farm-to-table burger restaurant, the latest of three burger-centric places to open in Memphis. This trend has our full endorsement. Belly Acres has a fantasyland interior and a menu that demands to be gone through one burger at a time. Down the street, there’s LBOE (Last Burger on Earth). Its menu raises the bar with such burgers as the super spicy Lava Me or Lava Me Not and the garlic-laden Love Stinks. Oshi Burger Bar downtown has something for everyone — beef burgers, tuna burgers, vegetarian burgers, gluten-free buns. They also have great milkshakes.

Justin Fox Burks

Oshi Burger Bar on South Main

Plenty of glasses have been raised at the taprooms opened in 2014 at High Cotton Brewing Co. and Memphis Made Brewing Co., and Memphis promises to get buzzier still in the new year with Pyramid Vodka. Wine in grocery stores finally passed, and while that doesn’t happen until 2016, local liquor stores are making the best of it with growler stations and more.

In grocery-store news: Whole Foods opened its expanded store in East Memphis, which includes a site-specific barbecue restaurant and a growler station. There’s the new Fresh Market in Midtown, and Kroger continues to show its commitment to Memphis in updating its stores, most recently the one at Cleveland and Poplar. Plus, there’s been some buzz about a Trader Joe’s opening sometime somewhere. We shall see.

In coffee news: Everybody freaked out when Muddy’s Bake Shop announced a new Midtown store in August 2013. Muddy’s Grind House opened this fall and offers a little of everything, from coffee to breakfast eats and yoga. The Avenue, near the University of Memphis, has great coffee and treats with Christian fellowship. There’s also Cafe Keough downtown in a gorgeous setting with a great cafe Americano. Tart offers quiches and more — a great go-to place when expectations are high. Ugly Mug took over the Poplar Perk’n space, and Jimmy Lewis, who founded Squash Blossom, returned to the scene with Relevant Roasters, selling wholesale, environmentally sound, and worker-friendly coffee with the motto “Every Cup Matters.”

After a few false starts, the Riverfront Development Corporation came through with Riverfront Grill. It serves a sophisticated but not too syrupy Southern menu and also has some of the best views in Memphis. Also new this year to downtown are the Kwik Chek spinoff Nacho’s, Marie’s Eatery in the old Rizzo’s Diner spot, and Cafe Pontotoc. Rizzo’s moved into the old Cafe Soul site, and there’s the Love Pop Soda Shop, a nifty craft soda shop.

In East Memphis, Skewer, serving Yakitori and ramen, opened in January. 4 Dumplings opened around the same time, and, as its name suggests, the menu is built around four dumplings. The vegan dumpling with tofu is not to be missed.

Since at least four people mentioned to me that Jackson Kramer’s Bounty on Broad is “secretly” gluten-free, I’m guessing it’s not really a secret. The dishes at this lovely farm-to-table spot are thoughtfully done and a delight to look at. The menu changes frequently, but at a recent dinner, there were mussels in fragrant coconut milk, charred broccolini, and creamed kale served over polenta. Also gluten-free is the Hawaiian import Maui Brick Oven, serving brick-oven pizzas and grain bowls.

Justin Fox Burks

Bounty on Broad’s Jackson Kramer

At Ecco on Overton Park, Sabine Bachmann’s cozy neighborhood restaurant, there are heaping dishes of pork chops, delicate pasta dishes, and artful cheese plates — something for every appetite. Strano Sicilian Kitchen & Bar serves a great roasted carrot soup and Italian classics from meatballs to pizza.

At press time, Porcellino’s, Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman’s latest venture, was due to open “any minute now.” File this one under “This Should Be Interesting.” This is a butcher shop/sundry/coffee spot/wine bar offering grab-and-go sandwiches, fresh pastas, cured meats, house-made pastries, and more.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

East Meets West

What burgers are to Americans, dumplings are to the Chinese, but not many Americans are aware that the Chinese consider dumplings their national food.

4 Dumplings aims to change that, offering a healthy gourmet option to Memphians in the process.

The East Memphis restaurant’s slogan, “eat responsibly,” makes sense given that executive chef Gordon Wang is a practicing physician specializing in digestive issues.

Three of the four owners have a background in health care, and 4 Dumplings also offers four varieties of the specialized dumpling dish: pork, beef, shrimp, and vegetarian. The group chose not to offer pot stickers and to avoid frying.

Wang and executive chef Xiaoli “Shelley” Cui spent month after month trying to perfect four recipes, borrowing a strong medical philosophy: One can develop the best treatment plan in history, but it’s a failure if no one adheres to it.

Traditionally eaten as finger foods, 4 Dumpling’s dumplings ($8 to $9.50) are served with three dipping sauces. The dough for the dumplings is made fresh daily, with just enough made for that day’s dishes.

The pork and shrimp are traditional, and vegetables account for more than one-third of the filling. The vegetarian dumpling includes tofu and chickpeas for protein as well as mushrooms, celery, cabbage, and carrots. (It’s vegan.) And while beef is not common in China, according to Wang, there is a beef dumpling as well.

4 Dumplings also offers noodles or rice with grilled chicken or braised pork, iced teas like Lemon Honey Ginger, and Tapioca Red Bean Pudding.

Justin Fox Burks

Gokumiso ramen

The menu for each Sunday brunch is unique, as the chefs get creative and offer color-coded items à la carte for $4, $6, or $8. On a recent Sunday, sushi, fish cakes, and steamed buns were offered, and for the Chinese New Year, they had rice cakes symbolizing “fortune” or “getting richer.”

4 Dumplings is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

6515 Poplar (762-4184)

4dumplings.net

Let’s play a game of word association: ramen noodles.

If what you’re picturing is a college dorm room, a microwave, and some canned vegetables, chances are you’ve never visited a restaurant like Skewer in the Sanderlin Shopping Centre in East Memphis.

Not that you’re to blame — yakitori and fancy noodles aren’t staples of many restaurants.

Skewer, which chef Gai Klaimongkol opened the last week of January, also offers a large sushi selection, tempura, and rice bowls. Chef Klaimongkol also hopes to procure a liquor license for sake cocktails.

“When we were building, people would see us and say, ‘Oh! We really want this kind of place!'” says Klaimongkol. “They all had an idea of what it would be like [from past dining experiences].

“It’s very traditional Japanese comfort food. Try us and we will surprise you.”

Designed for the business crowd, lunch is available daily from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner is served Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m.

Yakitori, which is central to the restaurant’s concept, literally translates as “grilled chicken” but has become synonymous with several kinds of meats and vegetables grilled on skewers. The restaurant’s chefs cook in front of the customers, dipping the meat into sauce that caramelizes with a delicate grill.

The bite-size pieces are available à la carte from $3 to $6.

Back to the ramen: Gokumiso is one of Klaimongkol’s favorite menu items.

The made-from-scratch stock is a blend of tonkotsu broth (muddy, with a pork bone base) and miso (Japanese soybean paste that’s fermented and pureed). It accents tender nickel-sized slices of spicy ground pork. The dish contains plenty of noodles beneath a floating salad complete with broiled eggs, cabbage, chopped green onion, and more.

The ramen selections run from $10 to $12.

5101 Sanderlin (682-9919)

skewermemphis.com