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Former Memphian Adds Ambassador Hotel/SOB Mural to South Main Art Scene

Whitney Williams

Erin Miller Wray working on her mural on the side of the Ambassador Hotel, which is the future home of South of Beale gastropub.





The south side of 345 South Main is coming to life.

Erin Miller Wray, a former Memphian now living in Los Angeles, created an 85-foot-long-by-10-foot-high mural on the side of the old Ambassador Hotel, which is the future home of South of Beale gastropub.

“We’re still working on it and we will be out here probably through the weekend,” Wray says. “We have pretty much the first layer done. We’ll go in today and do details and touch up. And, also, we’re painting the stairwell. We’ve got another two days ahead of us.”

Ed Cabigao, who owns SOB with his wife, Brittany, brought her to Memphis to do the mural, Wray says. “They wanted to bring some color and energy. Something to beautify the street. I had talked to Ed. We kind of brainstormed. I wanted to do something really special for him.”

Wray wanted the mural to feel like Memphis, but “not in the literal sense. We wanted it to feel authentic to Memphis, but we didn’t want it to be a literal interpretation of Memphis in the sense of we didn’t want to do a skyline or the bridge or a picture of Elvis. So, I kind of took that idea and did a spin on it.”

She was inspired by some “retro postcards” of Memphis. “There was one of the Levitt Shell, the Memphis bridge, the Lorraine Motel, an old Holiday Inn sign that was here. And in those I loved the Mid-Century modern feel of the shapes, the lines paired with these soft rounded edges.

“I took that design element and then I mapped it out to somewhat feel like a city skyline. So, all of the shapes are placed next to each other to sort of mimic this feel as if you’re looking at a skyline, but in a very interpretive sense. Very geometric. Soft edges. I played with negative space within the design. So, it feels like the art work is sitting off of the building, to mimic that skyline. Like it’s in front of it.”

She is working with a team on the mural. Wray is head of all the design and production. Also working on the mural are her assistants Christina Bagladi – who Wray flew in from Los Angeles – and Whitney Williams, and local artist Stacy Kiehl.

Whitney Williams

Erin Miller Wray in front of her Memphis mural.

Wray, who grew up in Germantown, studied interior design with a minor in theater at the University of Tennessee at Knoxville. She moved away from Memphis 12 years ago. “I moved out to Los Angeles to pursue acting. I did comedy six years, which brought me into the production side. Ultimately, art was pulling me more than acting was. I cut acting cold turkey and I started creating custom artwork and I opened my own design company, which specializes in murals for branded artwork design.”

Wray is a fan of her recent canvas — a building that dates to 1915. “The Ambassador Hotel has so much history and so many people love this building. So, I wanted to give Memphis and SOB something that was timeless. Something approachable to everyone. And that would just leave a mark down here, but maybe feel like this piece has always been here.”



“I instantly knew the design and the kind of art she does was exactly what I wanted for this building,” says Ed Cabigao. “You don’t see a lot of this kind of mural in Memphis. So, that’s why I really wanted someone to do something different and kind of have that help the South Main art scene.”

And, he says, “I’m excited for people to experience it, walk by it. It makes the building pop. And it just gives it a different element instead of just a dark, gray building.”

SOB is slated to open in late February or early March in the Ambassador Hotel, Ed says.

NLA Projects

Erin Miller Wray works on her Memphis mural on the side of the old Ambassador Hotel, which is the future home of South of Beale gastropub.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

South of Beale Looks to the East

If you’re tired of driving Downtown to get your hands on some of SOB’s delicious duck fried rice or General Tso’s cauliflower, owner Ed Cabigao has been listening. A second location called SOBeast is set to open its doors to the public next Tuesday, September 8th, in the former Interim space at 5040 Sanderlin Ave.

Murray Lace/Obsidian

SOB owner Ed Cabigao at the new East Memphis location.

Cabigao has had his eye on expanding the SOB brand for a while. When the pandemic offered him a chance to experiment with using Interim as a ghost kitchen for SOB’s menu, the demand was too high to ignore. “We were getting a lot of requests form East Memphians to have SOB to-go food closer to them,” he says. “We did much better than we thought, and after a couple of weeks, our to-go orders out there surpassed those at our Downtown location.

“We think the fine dining model post-COVID will be really challenging,” he explains. “Interim had a lot of challenges even before the pandemic hit, so we thought it was best to rebrand the space to SOBeast.”

The pandemic also forced Cabigao into a tough decision with his other establishment, Zaka Bowl. “It was sad since were passionate about it, and had a lot of loyal customers, but the pandemic really cut off its profitability.”

Now, Cabigao is firmly focused on expanding the SOB brand. “Since we’re focusing on just one brand, we can elevate SOB to where we want it to be. It’s in our mind to add a third location, but we don’t have concrete plans just yet.”

Murray Lace/Obsidian

SOB’s duck fried rice, complete with egg on top, is one of the restaurant’s most popular items.

Anthony Fenech will lead the kitchen at the East Memphis location, before transitioning into a corporate chef type of role overseeing both SOB locations. Meanwhile, Jess Hewlette joined the team several months ago to take over the Downtown location. “She joined us from the Liquor Store, and she’s got a really good flavor palette and some excellent ideas we want to highlight over the next couple of months,” says Cabigao.

The 3,500-square-foot SOBeast will feel like a “restaurant with a really good cocktail and bar program,” says Cabigao. When the original SOB moves into the Ambassador Hotel space, the two locations will parallel each other in terms of atmosphere, aesthetics, and menu. However, expect some slight variations down the line. “Eventually, we’ll have a menu sections that will say either ‘East Exclusives’ or ‘Downtown Exclusives,’” he says. “They’ll highlight our individual chefs’ styles that we have at both locations.”

With the pandemic in mind, Cabigao plans to utilize emerging technologies in the restaurant sector at the East Memphis location. While many restaurants have provided QR codes for menu access, he plans to extend that to receipts so customers can pay the bill on their phones. He also plans to make SOB’s website more robust, with an online system that sends orders straight to the kitchen for a smoother process.

SOBeast opens Tuesday, September 8th, for dine-in, curbside pickup, and UberEats delivery from 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and for all-day brunch 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. on Sunday. 5040 Sanderlin. 901-818-0821. southofbeale.com

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

S.O.B. Will Open its Dining Room June 15th



South of Beale a.k.a. S.O.B. will open its dining room June 15th. 

“We’ve been open for delivery and takeout ever since this whole thing happened, and both have been doing really, really well,” says owner Ed Cabigao. “It took us a few weeks to decide how to open back up fully and make sure we’re following all the guidelines — and how that affects our operations and how we serve people. That’s why we took the past month to sit back and figure everything out, operations-wise, on our end.”

The most popular S.O.B. takeout/delivery items were duck fried rice, General Tso’s cauliflower, and “probably our grilled salmon with Brussels sprouts,” Cabigao says.

S.O.B.’s capacity will be 50 percent until Phase III begins. Tables will be six feet apart. Employees will wear masks, and hand sanitizers will be available. The restaurant will use paper menus, as well as feature a QR code on each table so customers can see the menu on their phones.

The restaurant will be open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Brunch will be served until 3 p.m. on Sundays.

S.O.B. had planned to move next door to the old Ambassador Hotel at 345 South Main, “right across our parking lot,” but plans have changed a bit, Cabigao says. 

Michael Donahue

Ed Cabigao last year in the old Ambassador Hotel

“We were looking to open in August, but ever since all this happened, our permit got delayed for a month. So, we’re looking to opening — hopefully — in early October.

The new S.O.B. will have 5,000 square feet and three private dining rooms. Cabigao believes private dining rooms “will be even more in demand with this whole COVID thing, and people want to have their own private room with family and friends. We’re thinking when we open up in October we’ll be able to generate more revenue that way as well.”

P/K/M Architects

Rendering of the proposed new South of Beale

As for the current S.O.B. location, Cabigao says, “We own that building, so we plan on renting it out to another restaurant concept that complements the neighborhood.”

S.O.B. is at 361 South Main Street; (901) 526 0388

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

S.O.B. Is Moving

South of Beale, Memphis’ first gastropub, has always held food as its focus. That’s why Ed and Brittany Cabigao — owners of S.O.B., Interim, and Zaka Bowl — have decided to move S.O.B. into a larger space with a much larger kitchen, something their new head chef, Daniel Gamboa, is thrilled about.

“The main reason is that we do need more space,” owner Ed Cabigao says. “We designed this kitchen to do half the business it’s doing now. So basically, the kitchen is really overcrowded, overloaded … I want my employees to have a better space to work in.”

The new venue, located on the first floor of the old Ambassador building, will open in spring 2020 at 345 S. Main.

The dining room will add about five more tables, the bar will be longer, and the kitchen is expected to be five times its current size. The new location will also feature three private dining rooms that can be transformed into one giant event space for large parties. “We basically decline one event a week, on average, because we just don’t have the space right now,” Cabigao explains.

The owners also seek to maintain the integrity of the original S.O.B., that of a cozy Downtown bar with an adventurous, chef-driven menu: “We want it to feel like S.O.B.,” Cabigao says. “We’re still going to keep it quaint and unpretentious but almost like an S.O.B. 2.0.” In addition to more seating indoors, they will be expanding the patio space as well.

As they prepare for the move, the restaurant is embracing a new head chef: Daniel Gamboa, the bold and talented 22-year-old who blessed the S.O.B. menu with General Tso’s Cauliflower, which has been the highest-selling appetizer on the menu since it dethroned the Duck Fried Rice last year.

Gamboa came to S.O.B. from Interim a year ago to serve as sous chef under Anthony Fenech, and the two did a menu refresh at that time that introduced several unique items, including the cauliflower. The menu redesign led to S.O.B. having its best year yet in 2018.

Ed Cabigao says they’re slated to do even better in 2019, and he describes Gamboa as extremely hard-working, skilled, and full of energy. When asked about stepping up as head chef, Gamboa says, “It’s a little scary, but I think I’m ready for it.”

For those wondering if they’ll introduce new menu items again at the relaunch next spring, it’s a likely possibility.

“If we can push the food further, that’s what we want to do,” Cabigao says. “But we’re going to let our customers gauge that, too. That’s what we did when we first opened, and we’ll do that again.”

But the menu’s staples — like the Duck Patty Melt and the Smoked Gouda Mac & Cheese — aren’t going anywhere.

So what’s to happen with the old S.O.B.? The owners are looking for another restaurant tenant to take over the South Main space. Cabigao explains that they’ve had interest from some other bar concepts and burger places, but they “want whoever comes in here to complement not just the new S.O.B. but also Pontotoc, Slider Inn, Green Beetle — and not just be direct competition.”

The owners will also turn the second and third floors of the Ambassador building into apartments, which may lead to even more foot traffic on the block.

S.O.B. celebrated its 10th anniversary with a lively party on August 10th. The space was filled with familiar faces: bar regulars, restaurant patrons, former and current staff, friends and family — and lots of children.

It was interesting to see how much the place seemed to have grown up in the last decade. But also, the people: Ed and Brittany themselves have had two kids since S.O.B. first opened, and in many ways it’s like they’re growing up alongside the business.

“I tell people all the time: We opened this place up when we were 26 years old,” says Cabigao. “We thought we knew everything, but we didn’t know everything.”

The new South of Beale space, located on the first floor of the old Ambassador building, will open in spring 2020 at 345 S. Main.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Moscow Mule: Freeze, Copper!

Around midnight one recent Saturday, I found myself standing in line for a drink at Cooper-Young’s DKDC, waiting for the bartender’s attention so that I could order a Moscow Mule. I gave up most vodka-based cocktails after a high school bonding experience that involved sipping the clear liquor from a hairspray bottle. Yet here I was nearly three decades later, so sweaty that I eschewed my normal gin and tonic to cup my hands around a cold copper mug and let the vodka, ginger beer, and lime juice — the main ingredients in a Mule — course through my small intestine. Never mind that alcohol is a diuretic that actually heats up the body instead of cooling it down — the combination of the cold liquids, aromatic mint, and the insulating effect of the chilly copper mug felt instantly refreshing.

The cocktail, invented 75 years ago by ginger beer purveyor Jack Morgan and Smirnoff distributor John G. Martin, was birthed in Manhattan’s Chatham Hotel but found its sea legs at Morgan’s Cock ‘n Bull restaurant in Los Angeles. Served over cracked ice, the Moscow Mule combined two poor sellers (and utilized an overstock of Russian copper mugs) to create an instant hit at the Cock ‘n Bull, which was a celebrity-heavy establishment on the Sunset Strip. Despite a Cold War boycott led by a group of patriotic New York bartenders, the American-born Moscow Mule survived. And in recent years, as ginger beer has benefitted from the resurgence of the craft beer and cider markets, the drink has once again become a mainstay on bar menus.

Annapustynnikova | Dreamstime.com

Locally, you can find the Moscow Mule on menus all over town, from Beale Street to Overton Square to Collierville. South of Beale makes theirs with Tito’s vodka; the varietal Orange Mule at Bar Louie features Absolut Mandarin; while at the Cove, bartenders use vodka, crème de cassis, lime, and soda water to make a Memphis Mule, served in a copper mug for $8.

Karen Carrier, the restaurateur behind DKDC, the Beauty Shop, Mollie Fontaine Lounge, and Another Roadside Attraction catering, says that the popularity of the Moscow Mule, a traditional blend of Tito’s, Gosling’s Ginger Beer, lime, and mint, has stayed strong over the past few summers.

DKDC bartender Christine Farris says, “When it’s 100 degrees outside, and I can drink something that tastes this refreshing, I’d drink it.” She attributes the ascendance of the Moscow Mule on Carrier’s menus to her boss’ acumen when it comes to quality ingredients.

“Karen is always a step ahead of the game. We use good liquors, fresh herbs, and fresh-squeezed juices,” Farris says. “Whether you’re making one at home or drinking at a bar, the biggest thing that will make a Mule taste better is using fresh-squeezed fruit. Rose’s Sweetened Lime Juice makes the drink taste too sweet, which actually reduces the freshness. You also want to use a ginger beer that’s very gingery, without too much high fructose corn syrup.”

Gosling’s ginger beer ranked third out of four on Bon Appétit‘s rankings, below competitors Barritt’s and Fever-Tree. Cock ‘n Bull brand ginger beer, which is available at selected Kroger stores and via Amazon.com, didn’t make the list. At home last week, I made a Hendrick’s Summer Mule, which consists of gin, lime juice, elderflower cordial, muddled cucumber, and ginger beer, garnished with fresh mint.

The botanical flavors of gin add substantially to the taste of a Mule, although, truth be told, this variation had more in common with a Pimm’s Cup than a Mule. The cucumber slice added to the after-effects of sipping it. The Summer Mule goes down like a soothing digestive, concocted specifically for Memphians trying to make it through August.

That said, make mine a traditional Moscow. Maybe it’s just the mental association, but any cocktail named for a city that fluctuates between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit this month conjures up cooler days ahead.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

A Peek at Zaka Bowl

Vegetarians take note: There’s a new restaurant in town.

Soon.

South of Beale owner Ed Cabigao recently experienced a transformation, and he wants to extend it to his community. First for ethical reasons, which then turned into health-related incentives, Cabigao became a vegetarian and later, vegan.

His passion for this lifestyle and the impact he would like to have on the world caused him to consider opening a vegetarian restaurant, and a trip to D.C., where he discovered a successful build-your-own bowl-style restaurant sealed the deal for him.

Cabigao and his wife will open Zaka Bowl in late July/early August at 575 Erin Drive, with the concept of using locally produced food to create build-your-own veggie bowls with ingredients such as quinoa or wild rice, tofu or meaty vegetables. banished such as roasted corn or apple slaw, and a choice of house made sauces. 

Cabigao is working with Loaded for Bear for his branding and design. The 1,500-square-foot property is leased by Loeb Properties. He hopes to begin construction June 1st.

Stay tuned for more information in the Memphis Flyer coming soon.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

South of Beale’s Bar Pie Special

Once I saw the South of Beale’s Bar Pie Special ($11.50), I knew that I had to be adventurous for once.

This week, the bar pie is gator sausage, garlic, roasted red peppers, gouda, green onions and a chili-lime crème fraiche.

I have never tried alligator and was worried about how it would taste. I LOVED IT! I would compare the alligator meat to chicken and sausage. The meat tastes like chicken but better. It’s more flavorful, chewy, and it has the firmness of sausage. It fits right in on the bar pie. The roasted red peppers and green onions are fresh and the Gouda is nicely melted on the bread that is soft and grilled like a Panini. Lastly, the chili-lime crème fraiche adds a great kick of spiciness. If you like it spicy, you will love the sauce.

Grab it before it’s gone on Monday.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

South of Beale’s Fried Deviled Eggs

Of course, it was meant to be, the fried deviled egg.

At South of Beale, it’s included on the Snack Plate ($11), along with pimento cheese, relish, and toast points. 

These were better than I could have imagined— a sort of vegetarian take on the scotch egg, with a light crust and the great filling oozing out. They come atop the sweet relish, which is good, but would be really top-notch with a bit more heat. 

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Cover Feature News

What a Burger!

Burgers are having their moment in Memphis. Witness the three burger-centric places that opened just in the past few months — Oshi, LBOE, and Belly Acres. Now, don’t get us wrong, we love the classics from Huey’s, Earnestine & Hazel’s, and Kooky Canuck, but there are folks out there who are stretching the limit of what a burger is — from the raw, to the bunless, to the innovative flourishes. Here are 15 of the city’s most awe-inspiring takes on the all-American classic.

Justin Fox Burks

The Big Cheeser

The Big Cheeser

at El Toro Loco

The Big Cheeser at El Toro Loco is the perfect Mexican expression of an American favorite. It’s a basic cheeseburger topped with shredded lettuce, tomato, and pickled jalapeno. Then the entire burger is covered in melted Chihuahua cheese. The best part? It’s topped with a cherry! It comes out looking like a beautiful dinner/dessert hybrid. The cherry is really just for show, but the Chihuahua cheese has the delicious effect of steaming the bun underneath. While it does require a knife and fork, it is truly outstanding and should not be overlooked.

Stacey Greenberg

El Toro Loco, 2617 Poplar (458-4414)

torolocos.com

The Burger

at Cafe 1912

In keeping with the French bistro ambiance of Cafe 1912, this burger is tres formidable, but with a gourmet feel. A hefty portion of premium ground beef is topped with Benton Farms bacon, Maytag bleu cheese (or provolone, if you prefer), roasted garlic aioli, red onion, fresh tomatoes, and lettuce, all served on a ciabatta bun. It’s accompanied by a pile of skinny, crispy pomme frites, none of which will be left on your plate. Cafe 1912’s burger is delicious and filling, and you’ll probably find yourself using a fork before dinner is over. This goes perfectly with a nice glass of Pinot Noir, or my favorite, a Duvel Belgian beer.

Bruce VanWyngarden

Cafe 1912, 243 S. Cooper (722-2700)

cafe1912.com

The Big Smack

at Imagine Vegan Cafe

Two non-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, and onion on a dairy-free bun. Isn’t that how the song went? Oh yeah, that was “all-beef patties.” Well, screw that song. Imagine Vegan Cafe’s meat-free version of the iconic McDonald’s sandwich is much better for the animals and your health. Their vegan burger patties have a toothsome, meaty texture (this ain’t no flimsy, hippie bean burger), and they’re guaranteed to hold together until the last bite. The dairy-free cheddar is so melty that you’ll need napkins (and maybe a fork). — Bianca Phillips

Imagine Vegan Cafe, 2299 Young (654-3455)

imaginevegancafe.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Greek to Me

The Greek to Me

at LBOE

The Greek to Me burger at recently opened LBOE (Last Burger on Earth) is the perfect choice for anyone desiring to sink their teeth into a flavorful delight with a twist.

Made-to-order with fresh ground beef, the juicy 8 oz. burger is cooked medium-well and dressed with sautéed spinach, tzatziki sauce, and a dollop of roasted garlic cream cheese. Two toasted and buttered ciabatta buns hold everything together.

The burger comes with chips. My recommendation: the spicy, eye-watering Nikki’s Hot Ass Chips.

Reasonably priced at $9.95, the Greek to Me is enough for two people to split and will leave you full and satisfied. — Louis Goggans

LBOE, 2021 Madison (725-0770)

lboerestaurant.com

The Pat LaFrieda Chopped Steak Burger

at Off the Hoof

First off, be aware that Off the Hoof is a fairly far piece, especially on a bad rainy night and even if (like me) you already live way out east. Once at Off the Hoof, though, you’ll be impressed by the crowds in the place (even on a bad rainy night), even if that makes for something like assembly-line service. Now, ready? The proprietors are specialists. Burgers are basically all they do, and their menu consists of infinite variations on that theme. (Anyone for ground boar? I kid you not.) I had their specialty, the Pat LaFrieda (beef) — which is, I was told, two kinds of steak, each ground and chopped into a coherent and well-textured patty. I had mine well-done with habanero pepper jack cheese simmered into the patty. Hearty and not overly spicy, even so. Several varieties of fries, too — including the sweet potato kind.

Jackson Baker

Off the Hook Burgers, 12013 U.S. Highway 70, Arlington (867-3565)

offthehoofburgers.com

Stacey Greenberg

Bi Bim Bop Burger

Bi Bim Bop Burger

at Kwik Chek

Kwik Chek, which is known for its popular Korean dish, Bi Bim Bop, recently introduced the Bi Bim Bop Burger. Bi Bim Bop is typically served in a sizzling hot stone bowl and includes rice, meat of your choosing (or tofu), sliced veggies, bean sprouts, an over easy egg, and a spicy red sauce.

The Bi Bim Bop burger takes a cheeseburger and tops it with the veggies, beans sprouts, and egg. It is a beauty. And it is seriously messy. The addition of cheese and mayonnaise was a bit off-putting at first, but the flavors really come together nicely. If you are a fan of Bi Bim Bop, or just unusual burgers, it’s definitely worth a try. Grab several napkins and a fork.

SG

Kwik Chek, 2013 Madison (274-9293)

Memphis Flyer Staff

Voodoo Moo-Moo

Voodoo Moo-Moo

at Belly Acres

Others would have played it safe. I’m not others.

“Go for something basic,” they’d say. “Develop a baseline for comparison.”

Blackened patty. Blue cheese. Sriracha aioli. How could I say no? I couldn’t, especially with all of the “Os” in Voodoo Moo-Moo eyeing me from the menu.

Plus, it’s tough to even get a “basic” burger at Belly Acres, the newest player on the city’s burger stage. The closest thing to standard is the Dare Ya, a bacon cheeseburger with “acre sauce.”

Not sure if Belly Acres was going for a New Orleans kind of thing with the Voodoo Moo-Moo. It’s a guess based on the name, the blackened-ness of the thing, and the presence of aioli. Also, on the menu it’s sandwiched between burgers with Mexican and Italian influences.

But after the first bite, the name barely mattered. Something magical happened when the blue cheese hit the caramelized onions, the blackened beef, and the perfectly placed pickles. When it happened to me, I closed my eyes in a moment of involuntarily and very public burger worship. No, I was not transported to the Crescent City but to hamburger heaven.

The Voodoo Moo-Moo is just one daring burger on a list of daring burgers from Belly Acres. Chorizo. Waffle buns. Pork belly. Guacamole. Maple ketchup. The menu alone has put Belly Acres on the Memphis burger map, and if it maintains the quality I got Monday, it is destined to be a hotspot for a long time.

Toby Sells

Belly Acres, 2102 Trimble (529-7017)

bellyacres901.com

Stacey Greenberg

Tora Toro

Tora Toro

at Oshi Burger Bar

Newly opened Oshi features its own Asian-inspired burger, the Tora Toro. It is made from house ground Ahi tuna and is topped with “crushed” avocado, Asian slaw, sesame seeds, and umami mayo. It’s super tasty, especially with a side of their thin and crispy French fries, which are served with a spicy ketchup that has its own Asian flare. For die-hard burger fans, it is a nice change from the typical beef patty and is maybe even a tad healthier? At the very least it is a great way to get your pescatarian friends to join you at the trendiest new burger joint downtown. — SG

Oshi Burger Bar, 94 S. Main (341-2091)

oshiburger.com

Marrow Burgers

at home

Take charge! Why wait around on a burger like a chump? Charlie’s Meat Market on Summer (aka the Avenue of Delights) will set you up with the latest rage: marrow burgers. There are a trillion recipes online, but basically you get beef bones and some chuck, knife the marrow out of the bones, salt and pepper the beef, and wad it all into patties. Grill, griddle, whatever. The result is a crazily moist, beefy burger (if you’re like me) or a lipid-sodden meat sponge (if you’re like my wife). Bring some acidity: a pepper relish, pickles, or a Malbec. — Joe Boone

Charlie’s Meat Market, 4790 Summer (683-1192)

charliesmemphis.com

Stacey Greenberg

Ecco Burger

ECCO Burger

at ECCO on Overton Park

ECCO on Overton Park’s signature ECCO burger features a spicy Chorizo sausage patty and is served on a homemade bun. Inside you’ll find melted manchego cheese and garlic aioli. It’s quite sophisticated, but don’t be fooled. It’s not for the weak of stomach as it packs a punch. — SG

1585 Overton Park (410-8200)

eccoonovertonpark.com

The Bacon Burger Wrap

at 5 Guys Burgers and Fries

There are several gourmet options for gluten-free burger lovers these days, but when you’re on the go and only have time for fast food, you may have to forget about the bun. In that case, 5 Guys has you covered. For those who prefer their food in a pile, 5 Guys will drop any of their burger combinations into a bread-free bowl, but the lettuce wrap is so much more convenient and burger-appropriate. The bacon burger is comprised of two flat-top-grilled burger patties and a healthy serving of crispy bacon. It’s tasty, if a little plain, but it can be gussied up with grilled onions and jalapenos, and a wide range of condiments and toppings that are available at no extra charge. What’s special about this burger is the care that’s taken in wrapping it in large, pliable, but still slightly crunchy lettuce leaves. You may begin to wonder why anybody would ever use a bun in the first place. — Chris Davis

5 Guys Burgers and Fries, multiple locations

fiveguys.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Colossus

The Colossus

at 3 Angels On Broad

I must hurry and finish this blurb before I slip into meat-induced catatonia for I have just eaten a Colossus. The most aptly named burger on our list stands astride the menu at the recently revamped 3 Angels On Broad as a towering achievement in burger architecture. The burger is a half pound of lean chuck fried to perfection, married with smoked gouda, and topped with two thick strips of bacon. On the opposing bun, a garlic mayo base supports pickles, tomatoes, slaw, and a nest of thin, crispy fried onions. This is the burger to have if you’ve been fasting for a few days, or if you’re ready to settle down into a long winter’s nap. — Chris McCoy

3 Angels on Broad, 2617 Broad (452-1111)

3angelsmemphis.com

Memphis Flyer Staff

Cashew Burger

Cashew Burger

at 2 Vegan Sistas

This raw vegan burger may well be the healthiest burger in town. Finely ground seasoned cashews are shaped into a patty and covered in pickles, onions, ketchup, and mustard. It’s served on a heart of romaine, but those with heartier appetites can request gluten-free bread. Pro tip: Order the bread on the side and take a bite with each forkful of cashew burger. To complete this super-healthy version of the all-American meal, order 2 Vegan Sistas’ take on a chocolate milkshake — the Carob Smoothie, made with carob, tahini, and almond milk. — BP

2 Vegan Sistas, 6343 Summer, Suite 100 (1-800-984-0379)

twovegansistas.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Ramen Burger

The Ramen Burger

at South of Beale

Brittany Cabigao, one of the operating partners of South of Beale, says they added a Ramen burger as a special to their menu after hearing about the New York craze. Ramen noodle master Keizo Shimamoto blew people’s minds with his bun made from crispy Ramen noodles at his restaurant Ramen Co.

The burger, topped with spinach and a homemade ramen sauce, was supposed to be a one-day thing, but proved so popular they added a second day. And while Cabigao doesn’t think the Ramen burger would ever make it on South of Beale’s regular menu, the burger will be on special this week as well as New Year’s Eve. — SG

361 S. Main (526-0388)

southofbeale.com

Justin Fox Burks

The Barbecue Burger

The Barbecue Burger

at Tops Bar•B•Q

Any burger fan cannot consider him/herself truly serious without a visit to Tops Bar•B•Q. While many may be aware of their famous barbecue sandwiches and many may have heard that their cheeseburgers have a cult-like following, it is only a few who have dared to combine the two. For the Barbecue Burger, order a burger and ask for an ounce of pork, slaw, and barbecue sauce. Depending on which Tops you go to, the extra meat may be underneath the hamburger patty. Seth Agranov, founder of the Best Memphis Burger Fest, says, “The barbecue should be on top, not under the burger. Placement counts!” He suggests going “all in” and adding an extra hamburger patty.

It seems like a lot for one bun to handle, but the burger/barbeque combo goes down surprisingly well. It’s so good that it may be gone before you get a chance to fully appreciate it. — SG

Tops Bar•B•Q, multiple locations

topsbarbq.com

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Lunch Bunch

Looking to break out of your downtown lunch rut? Two new choices have just made the scene.

The Brass Door, an authentic Irish pub, is bringing more lunch business to that stretch of Madison between Second and Third, across the street from Thai Bistro’s new downtown location. Seamus Loftus has taken over the old Marx-Bensdorf building, which was established in 1868, and created an ambience unlike any other downtown. And, yes, it really does have a brass door.

High ceilings, rich mahogany, and antique fixtures give the pub an established feel, as if it had long been a staple of downtown Memphis. Upstairs, an elegant dining room looks out over the bar and restaurant below.

The menu is traditional Irish fare, with staples like fish and chips (a bottle of malt vinegar sits on every table) and an Irish stew made with lamb, onions, and potatoes and served with soda bread croutons.

But the real standout items are the deep-fried goat-cheese fritters, house-made chips (french fries, served in a cornet and rumored to be fried in duck fat), shrimp on brown-bread toast with a garlic lemon butter sauce, and the hefty Irish breakfast, made with two eggs, bacon, rashers, black and white puddings, bangers, and potatoes.

For a lighter lunch, there are soups and salads, like the Ploughman’s lunch, which is a chef’s salad topped with a house-made beer vinaigrette and served with tomato chutney and soda bread.

Then again, if you’ve come to an Irish pub, you probably aren’t looking for lighter fare, so have them pour you a Guinness, crack open some Joyce, and tuck into a Dublin coddle — poached bangers, potatoes, bacon, and caramelized onions served with whole-grain mustard and cabbage.

The Brass Door, 152 Madison (572-1813)

thebrassdoor.com

Two years is a mighty long time to wait for lunch, but South of Beale owner Brittany Whisenant says that when the restaurant opened in 2009, they wanted to perfect their dinner and late-night operation before taking on the lunch crowd.

Fortunately, this gem of a gastropub in the South Main Street Historic District has decided to take the plunge. With Leadership Memphis moving in next door and a growing population of downtowners-by-day, South of Beale will begin its weekday lunch service on September 12th.

South of Beale, whose cheeky acronym “S.O.B.” and elegant bar food have attracted a following, will maintain the same general cuisine, with an emphasis on quick and affordable offerings for the lunch hour.

Sandwiches (like a roasted vegetable sandwich and a smothered chicken sandwich), salads (scallop ceviche, duck confit salad, steak salad, and shrimp salad), and soups (gumbo and vegetable noodle) will form the core of the menu. And expect to find some holdovers from the dinner menu as well, like their ever-evolving burger (now served with fried house-made mozzarella) and the hummus platter and eggrolls.

South of Beale will be open for lunch Monday through Friday and will add Saturday brunch to its already popular Sunday brunch. Whisenant says the full lunch menu will likely be available within the week, so keep your eyes peeled for a better glimpse of what you’ve been missing for two whole years.

South of Beale, 361 S. Main (526-0388)

southofbeale.com