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Sun’s Out, (Burger) Buns Out

Oh, the weather outside is frightful-ly hot, but a fired-up grill is so delightful. That’s right, Memphis, it’s the most bunderful week of the year: Burger Week. That means you get some of the best burgers Memphis has to offer at a pretty awesome price of $6.99 from Wednesday, August 7th, to Tuesday, August 13th. Without further ado, here are this year’s Burger Week burgers.  

Sunrise | Sunrise Patty Melt (Photo: Sarah Morse)

Sunrise Memphis
Sunrise Patty Melt

The last time I had a hamburger for breakfast was probably when I ate a Krystal at 5 a.m. or something back in the day. That would have been on the way home, though, not after waking up in the morning.

Sunrise Memphis is offering the “Sunrise Patty Melt” for its Burger Week selection. Its creator, Sunrise Memphis executive chef Will Sater, calls it “a double smash patty with a cheddar cheese, jalapeño, cream cheese, and bacon jam we make in-house. And an over-easy egg.”

They had a version of the sandwich for last year’s Burger Week, but it was on a brioche bun instead of Texas toast like now. “We thought the toast was a little better for the texture.”

Sater continues, “Oh, it exploded. It was a very good product for us. And people seem to enjoy it, so it’s turned into a hit for us.”

It exploded like the egg can when cut with a knife. “It’s a messy burger, for sure. But just seeing that egg run out is kind of the pièce de résistance, as we like to say. You want to see that egg oozing out. It makes it feel more like breakfast, for sure.”

The Sunrise Patty Melt ended up on the menu. “People kept asking for it. So, we just decided to put it on the menu. And it turned into a big thing here.” — Michael Donahue

Jack Brown’s | Ron Swanson (Photo: Jon W. Sparks)

Jack Brown’s
Crab Rangoon Burger

As dives go, Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint is as funky as you’d want, but with generous helpings of surprises. One of the chain’s co-founders proclaimed, “We’re a dive bar, not a dump,” and it’s certainly not your average burger and beer joint. Those are some high-end burgers, all of which are made with Wagyu beef from Snake River Farms in Idaho and slapped down on Martin’s potato buns. What’s more, all ingredients are made in-house. Any burger on the menu is a delight, but consider what’s being offered during Memphis Flyer Burger Week: The Crab Rangoon Burger, with that delectable Wagyu beef, topped with house-made crab Rangoon (mixed with cream cheese), fried wontons, and sweet Thai chili sauce, served on that potato bun. Tragically, I was too early to sample that one, but I’ll be back now that Burger Week is underway. Meanwhile, I gladly dug into the Tuesday special, the Ron Swanson, with bacon, Muenster cheese, and barbecue bacon mayo. My companion got the Elvis burger that’s topped with some peanut butter. And the fries were scrumptious, begging to be dipped in an onion aioli sauce, which now replaces any ketchup tendencies we used to have. Phenomenal burgers and (despite the bras discreetly hanging from a light fixture) family-friendly! — Jon W. Sparks 

Tops Bar-B-Q | Policeman Burger (Photo: Patrick Collins)

Tops Bar-B-Q
Policeman Burger

Tops Bar-B-Q, whose iconic cheeseburger is special in its own right, is featuring the Policeman Burger as its Burger Week selection.

Describing the burger, Hunter Brown with Tops, says it’s a “Tops famous cheeseburger on a bed of mayonnaise, pickles, with applewood bacon, grilled onion, slow-smoked brisket, and Sweet ‘N’ Saucy barbecue sauce.”

Naming it the Policeman had to do with how Tops supports members of the Memphis Police Department. They protect communities where Tops team members as well as customers live and work, says Randy Hough with Tops. It’s important for Tops to bring attention to them for the job they’re doing there every day.

I could have yelled out how good this over-the-top sandwich is at the Tops Cordova location where I tried it for the first time. But nobody had to call the police. I kept my calm. — MD

Rock’n Dough | The Classic Burger (Photo: Toby Sells)

Rock’n Dough
The Classic Burger

How do you get beer into a hamburger? 

The question has vexed armies of scientists for generations. The team at Rock’n Dough Pizza & Brewery has finally answered it.

The solution lies in the pickles. The menu lists them as “house-made hop pickles.” That’s right. Rock’n Dough’s food geniuses flavored pickles with hops, the beer ingredient that lifts heavy on aroma, flavor, and bitterness. I’m a hop-head/IPA bro, so it’s one of my favorites. 

Those pickles can be found on The Classic Burger at Rock’n Dough. It’s a stripped-down street-racer of a burger that relies on old-school flavor punch — not some flashy topping-of-the-month — to deliver the goods. And it sure does. 

One bite transported me back to the lake or the ballpark, places I first learned to savor and appreciate food in the first place. Like a great beer, The Classic was balanced and you could taste the beef, the garlic-basil mayo, the seasoning, and all the ingredients, especially the pickles. The hop flavor was subtle, but I swore they’d figure out how to get a beer in my burger. And my hat went off to them. — Toby Sells

Farm Burger | Classic Farm Burger with kale slaw (Photo: Alex Greene)

Farm Burger
The Spicy Pimento

Living as close as I do to Farm Burger in the Crosstown Concourse, I eat there often, and though I didn’t order their special Burger Week offering when I stopped in last week (the Spicy Pimento, with their usual 100-percent grass-fed beef burger, pimento cheese, pasture-raised bacon, pickled jalapenos, and sherry-date barbecue sauce), the burger I did get was a lesson in how you just can’t go wrong with an establishment so focused on fresh, local food as the basis of its menu.

I’ve become a big fan of their kale slaw as an alternative to French fries, so I ordered a side of it with my regular, reliably delicious Farm Burger, the eatery’s flagship sandwich. But the burger that was served was even more delicious than expected: The kitchen had misunderstood, thinking I wanted only a kale slaw topping, and that’s what I got. Imagine my surprise!

One bite and I was hooked. The texture of the well-dressed kale leaves complements your basic Farm Burger to a T, adding a new texture and flavor profile to the aged white cheddar, caramelized onions, and Farm Burger sauce toppings that are usually included. Of course, I soon was craving my usual side of kale slaw as well, which the attentive servers promptly brought to my table. But I won’t soon forget the brilliant mistake of adding kale slaw directly to my burger. Indeed, next time I’m there I’ll suggest that addition on my Spicy Pimento Burger.
Alex Greene

Huey’s | World Famous Huey Burger (Photo: Kailynn Johnson)

Huey’s
World Famous Huey Burger

Huey’s has had a special place in my heart ever since it was the finale to an eighth grade field trip. However, I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that in my 12 years of being an avid Huey’s-goer I hadn’t tried a burger from there until this week. 

I know! I know! But let’s say that my first Huey’s burger is a Burger Week staple — and it’s worth the hype. I haven’t had an actual burger in years, opting for leaner meats instead, and I’d classify this as an actual burger. You know, the one you see in some TV show from the ’90s that the characters seem to neglect over frivolous dialogue — despite the mouthwatering entree before them. 

I tried the World Famous Huey’s burger fully loaded (minus the onions) with cheddar. I added a side of sweet potato fries which were the perfect addition. This will definitely be added to the cheat meal rotation. — Kailynn Johnson

Tug’s Casual Grill | BBQ Cheddar Burger (Photo: Shara Clark)

Tug’s Casual Grill
BBQ Pulled Pork Burger

For this year’s Burger Week, Tug’s is offering an upgrade to their BBQ Cheddar Burger — a menu item served with fries, typically priced at $16.95. So consider their BW deal a steal! The standard is a half-pound sirloin patty, topped with housemade barbecue sauce, cheddar cheese, crispy onion straws, lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles (as pictured above). The special will come with a helping of housemade pulled pork in the mix. I tried the standard on my visit, since the pulled pork wasn’t available at the time. No complaints from me! This was a top-notch burger. The slightly sweet sourdough bun was the perfect vessel for its contents. The well-seasoned massive patty had that fresh-from-the-grill crust. The surprise bits of crunch from the fried onion straws were delightful. Now, envision all that with a scoop of pulled pork. Is your mouth watering? It should be. P.S. The seasoned fries are the bomb (think Back Yard Burgers but way better) and are included in the BW offering. Don’t sleep on this! — Shara Clark

Loflin Yard | Baja Burger (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Loflin Yard 
Baja Burger

I always have a relaxing time when I go to Loflin Yard. For this visit to the sprawling, mostly outdoor compound, the heat that has gripped the Bluff City had mostly dissipated for the evening. I grabbed a table in view of the TV that was showing the Olympic gymnastics team final, and ordered my Baja Burger. 

The Baja is a staple of the Loflin Yard menu. It comes with a thin patty on a brioche bun, topped with red cabbage slaw, spicy aioli, bacon, and pineapple. It’s the latter ingredient that is unusual for a burger. But, as it turns out, it is not a showstopper like pineapple on pizza. I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed the Baja. In this burger, the beef is not the primary attraction. Instead, it’s the combination of the pineapple and thick slabs of peppered bacon. It’s quite tasty and quite unusual. At least, I wouldn’t have thought of it! As with most things in life, it’s the balance that makes it good. Simone Biles would probably approve. — Chris McCoy

Bain Barbecue | Special Burger (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Bain Barbecue 
Special Burger

The former food truck moved into a brick and mortar location in Cooper-Young a little over two years ago, says manager Emily James. The idea to add a burger to their menu came after a Super Bowl party where the restaurant ran out of their trademark Texas-style barbecue brisket. “We tried to start doing burgers back in February. We started out with wings on our Anytime menu, and burgers just kind of came naturally.”

Bain’s Special Burger is a smashburger that features a Home Place Pastures patty with “shrettuce,” house-made pickles, and Jones Orchard heirloom tomatoes. It’s topped with a secret sauce. “I think it brings out the burger flavor a lot,” says James. 

The smashburger comes on a Martin’s potato buns. “Every sandwich has a Martin’s potato bun,” says James. “We just started putting those on the grill, too, and let ’em sit for a second. We let ’em get a little crusty.” 

For a side with your juicy burger, you can choose the five-cheese mac, a baked potato salad, brisket pinto beans, jalapeno lime slaw, or the traditional french fries. The best part about getting a burger at a barbecue joint is that you can dip your fries in one of Bain’s barbecue sauces. I tried all three flavors — hot, sweet, and mustard — and unexpectedly, the mustard sauce won! — CM

Betly Sports Bar & Grill | Smokey Baloney (Photo: Courtesy Southland Casino)

Betly Sports Bar & Grill
Smokey Baloney

So, uh, here’s the thing. I don’t eat meat, but I’m supposed to write about a burger? Who in their right mind wants the opinion of a pescatarian about a burger? I don’t even have one to give. I guess I’ll have to stick to objective facts when it comes to the Smokey Baloney at Betly Sports Bar & Grill in Southland Casino & Hotel. First off, what a fun name for a burger. I love the word baloney; I won’t eat it but I’ll call it any day. Ain’t that some baloney? The Smokey Baloney is made of all-beef patty, beef brisket, half-pound fried all-beef bologna, onion rings, and Memphis barbecue sauce. I’m sure that sounds delightful for any burger-loving fool. You can check out the picture above — as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.  

And if you’re looking for an excuse to hit the slot machines, a $6.99 burger sounds as good as any. So get a bang for your buck while you win (or lose) major bucks. — Abigail Morici

Belle Tavern | The Tavern Smash (Photo: Harold Cook)

Belle Tavern
The Tavern Smash

The best way to get to Belle Tavern is by going to the door on Barboro Alley. It’s just a couple hundred feet from Second Street and the Peabody Hotel, but you’ll feel mysterious, in the know, like a spy. It could be almost an underground secret, except for the fact that it’s one of downtown locals’ favorite spots. If you haven’t been to the Belle Tavern yet, this would be a great week to start. And a great way to introduce yourself to their tasty menu would be to order the Tavern Smash, a delicious concoction consisting of a four-ounce, ground-beef smash patty, onions, pickles, dijonnaise mustard, pickles, and a scrumptious house-made sesame bun. Mmmm. This is a cheeseburger classic, and it’s made to be smashed — into your tummy! — Bruce VanWyngarden

Wimpy’s | Rajun Cajun Burger (Photo: Jacob Crafton)

Wimpy’s
Rajun Cajun Burger

As most of us know, one of the most famous lines in Western letters goes this way: “I’d gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today.” The sentiment and the syntax belong to one J. Wellington Wimpy, a character in the comic strip Popeye, created by E.C. Segar. A louche fellow, something of a deadbeat, Wimpy, a chum of the title character, speaks for many of us who want to lay hands (or chomps) on something desirable before we have the means to get it gainfully.

If your goal is the same as Wimpy’s — a good, garden-variety burger — you can get it seven days a week at one of three Memphis-area locations of the Wimpy’s Burgers and Fries. For just over 10 bucks, you can get the basic version — the Wimpy burger — with fries. That’s the kind I got at the Wimpy’s at 7424 US Highway 64, just down the street from my digs. It’s satisfyingly plump, cooked to one’s specifications with all the usual fixings. For a tiny bit more, you can get a super-charged variety called the Rajun Cajun, but for Burger Week, it’s just $6.99. The Rajun Cajun has its own renown, and I sampled enough of the special sauce that goes on it to attest that it’s good and spicy. — Jackson Baker 

For more Burger Week information, visit memphisflyer.com/page/burgerweek. Follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and X (@memphisflyer) and get up-to-date info on everything #FlyerBurgerWeek.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Now open: The Liquor Store and Sunrise

A couple weeks ago, a customer at Five in One Social Club on Broad was hungry. Where should she go to lunch?, she asked the owners. What about Bounty? The owners suggested the newly open Liquor Store, as Broadway Pizza was the only place in the area serving lunch.

It was a scenario exactly pictured a few years back by Lisa and Luis Toro of the high-end gift and coffee shop City & State. When a liquor store just about a block away from City & State became available, Toro kept her eye on it, sure that other folks could see the wide-open market for a breakfast and lunch place. No one did, so Toro took on the project herself, opening the Liquor Store.

“There was a black ceiling, black wood beams. There was no plumbing,” says Toro. What it did have, according to Toro, was “such personality, such character. “The sign’s iconic.”

What Toro envisioned for the space was “mid-century Miami” — bright whites and playful palm leaf prints of Toro’s own design. The mood she was going for was “happy.”

Happy, indeed. Folks can follow their bliss down the cocktail menu with its trio of toast-worthy champagne drinks. There’s also the intriguing Negroni Bianco with pisco, cocchi Americano, port, vermouth, bitters, and palo santo — described as “a spirit-forward brandy cocktail with a mysterious smoky finish.”

The breakfast menu, available all day, includes classic egg plates and pancakes as well as biscuit sandwiches. For lunch, vegan and vegetarians will most certainly tuck into the Cuban Platter, a colorful array of fried plantains, black beans, yellow rice, and other veggies. More Latino/by-the-sea influence is seen in the crab cakes with a lime vinaigrette and the fantastic Dulce De Leche cake from Ali Rohrbacher.

Next up for the Toros is expanding the smallish space. The plan is to add storage containers for a bar and a patio area in the back.

Sunrise opened on November 27th downtown, more than a year after it was supposed to. The founders held a “soft opening” the week beforehand to work out the kinks. One thing they adjusted was the biscuit recipe. They reworked the recipe to make it hold up better to the ingredients — ingredients such as house-smoked sausage, eggs, chicken, cheese, pork shoulder, steak, and pickles. Other dishes include the Bim Breakfast, a popular dish with pork, scrambled egg, kimchi, scallion, daikon served over sticky rice. The Three Amigos Tacos are breakfast tacos with eggs, chorizo, potatoes, cotija, salsa, and jalapeños.

The menu, says manager Johnny Lawrence, “goes a little against tradition. We were not anticipating the [Bim Breakfast] to be the best-seller. The Chicken biscuit is doing well. It’s not your everyday chicken biscuit. Its cajun batter is super crispy, a little spicy. It’s very Southern.”

Another thing worth crowing about is Sunrise’s house-smoked meats, specifically the salami and sausages. They took advantage of the old smokers left behind by the Neelys, who used to operate a restaurant in that space.

Sunrise serves exactly one type of beer — Miller Lite. Miller Lite is a favorite of Sunrise co-founder Ryan Trimm (along with Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp). Miller Lite also makes an excellent Beermosa, according to Lawrence.

As for the space itself, it’s comfortable with tables and chairs painted by local artist Karen “Bottle” Capps. A jukebox is stacked with classics (Cash, Redding, Parton, etc.), and there are no TVs.

Lawrence says that business has been pretty good so far, and booming on the weekends. They modeled Sunrise’s approach after Central BBQ, an establishment that knows how to pack people in and get them fed in an orderly fashion.

“It’s the brainchild of three native Memphians,” Lawrence says. “It’s held true to what the city is about — blues, Sun Studio, and Elvis.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

A look back at 2017 food news

2017 was looking to make me a liar. In last year’s “Look Ahead” story, I had several places set to open that just barely made it this year. They include: Sunrise, the biscuit-centered breakfast place from Central BBQ’s Craig Blondis and Roger Sapp and Sweet Grass’ Ryan Trimm, which opened in late November; the food hall South Main Market, which held a grand opening on December 2nd with an opening roster of promising eateries; and the Liquor Store, from the same folks as City & State, which opened in November.

One of the bigger food stories was related to the opening of the Crosstown Concourse building. Mama Gaia was the first out of the gate in early spring. They were followed by French Truck Coffee, Farm Burger, Next Door Eatery, MemPops, So Nuts, Curb Market, and I Love Juice Bar. I frequent the place and pay — gasp! — $11 for a small smoothie from the Juice Bar at least once a week.

Closing down and moving on: The first location of LYFE Kitchen in East Memphis closed in the fall. The second, in the Chisca downtown, closed for a short while and reopened as a reinvented space with a new menu and new decor. Also seeing new life were Brass Door and the Riverfront Grill (now the Front Porch), both forced into shape by Deni and Patrick Reilly of the Majestic Grill. The much-beloved Elwood’s Shack was closed for several months after a fire in December. It reopened in March.

Happy news: The Cosmic Coconut was turned into the City Silo, a vegan-forward space with several great, thoughtful dishes. The oldie but goodie Front Street Deli changed owners and reopened with a John Grisham-themed menu.

Elwood Shack

Sunrise

More milestones: Beauty Shop marked its 15th year with beehives and 1997 prices. Jim’s Grill, the longtime place for graduate lunches and Mother’s Day brunches, closed for good after an attempt at a revival by Alex Grisanti. Other Memphis favorites, the Peanut Shoppe on Summer closed earlier this month after 58 years and Spaghetti Warehouse closed after 30 years in downtown.

A few things found life beyond the confines of this column. Let’s start with Meddlesome and its cheekily named 201 Hoplar IPA, which a lot of folks found problematic, while the vast majority really loved the name-play. (Also, the IPA is really good.) Another hit was the video by Michael Donahue of the “Pie Lady” Katherine Perry. Perry made her caramel pie and a few others and found an enrapt audience. That video had more than one million (!) views. David Scott of Dave’s Bagels is, how do we put it???, super-hot. And folks like his freshly made, truly excellent bagels, too. You can find them pretty much everywhere.

After pouring millions into the old 19th Century Club building to open the restaurant Izakaya, the owners quickly reconsidered the rather unfocused approach, reopening as the chiefly Japanese and quite good Red Fish. The popular food truck Sushi Jimmi found new life in a brick and mortar space on Poplar. The same goes for Riko’s Kickin’ Chicken, which opened on Madison near Cleveland. Lucky Cat gathered quite a following for its pop-ups before settling on a space at the corner of Cooper and Peabody.

Nobody knows trouble like Taylor Berger. His grand vision for shipping crates serving as a venue was almost quashed as the some of the campus of Railgarten did not have proper inspection. It was all eventually worked out, and now the place serves as a happy meeting ground for young folks looking for fun.

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Sunrise opening Nov. 27

The much anticipated new restaurant Sunrise from Central BBQ’s Roger Sapp and Craig Blondis and Sweet Grass’ Ryan Trimm will officially open Monday, November 27th.

The restaurant, at 670 Jefferson, will specialize in meats (think bacon and sausage) and dense, hearty biscuits that hold up to a whole mess of fillings.

A soft-opening menu featured “Biscuit Sammies” with fried chicken, smoked bologna, and more. There were breakfast bowls featuring cinnamon chicharrones, fruit and granola, grits and bacon.

Pam Denney

Also offered during the soft opening were scrambled egg tacos and the Bi Bim Breakfast (!), and sides included pancakes, cheese grits, bacon, and hashbrowns.

The building, once a Neely’s BBQ, has been considerably lightened. There are about a dozen four tops and half-a-dozen booths. A jukebox is stacked with classics (Cash, Redding, Parton, etc.), and there will be a grab-and-go case.