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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Local Chefs Do BBQ: Part 2

Since May is the month of the big “B” in Memphis, more area chefs share their thoughts on barbecuing. After all, this is Memphis. Barbecuing is sort of second nature. Right?

Miles Tamboli, owner of Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza: “I made a barbecue pasta sauce that I’m really proud of to this day. I broke down barbecue sauce to its basic flavors and recreated it from scratch using Italian ingredients. Tomato base, caramelized onions, garlic confit, red wine, balsamic vinegar, smoked paprika, anchovy, and some more stuff. Tasted just like barbecue sauce. We tossed bucatini in it and topped it with seared sous vide pork belly from Home Place Pastures and nasturtium micros. It was excellent.”

Karen Carrier, chef/owner of restaurants, including The Beauty Shop: “Applewood smoked barbecued char siu salmon with crystallized ginger, candied lemon zest, and an avocado, watermelon, radish, and orange supreme relish.”

Joseph Michael Garibaldi Jr., Garibaldi’s Pizza owner: “We use a combination of fine- and medium-chopped hickory smoked pork shoulder and combine it with just the right amount of our sweet and sour sauce for it to caramelize the brown sugar on top and keep the pork moist and tender. … Our fresh, hand-tossed crust, signature fresh-packed tomato pizza sauce, and shredded mozzarella cheese provide a perfect base for the perfect barbecue pizza.”

Andy Knight, chef at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar: “Opening Loflin Yard and Carolina Watershed — both on Carolina Avenue — I attempted Carolina barbecue with a Memphis twist. I would cook the butts Carolina style — vinegar-based — then lather them up later with a rich Memphis-style sauce. Both locations were successful, but could never beat Memphis-style. From vinegar-based pork butts to 12-hour smoked beef brisket, nothing beats the dry rub and a rich barbecue sauce of Memphis-style barbecue.”

Betty Joyce “B.J.” Chester-Tamayo, chef-owner of Alcenia’s: “Barbecued chicken. I bake it first if I’m doing it at the restaurant. Sometimes I marinate it overnight with my Italian dressing.”

She also uses her eight seasonings, including Italian dressing, fresh rosemary, and even some of her homemade apple butter. She adds her barbecue sauce when serving. “I take barbecue sauce from the store and add my own ingredients: lemon juice, ketchup, Lipton onion soup mix, and other seasonings.”

Jonathan Mah, chef/owner SideStreet Burgers in Olive Branch, Mississippi: “My signature is the Korean barbecue — Le Fat Panda. My favorite cut is the pork steak marinated in Korean flavors and grilled. It’s a soy-based marinade with honey and mirin, green onions, and sugar, as well as sesame oil. Red pepper flakes for a little spice. Chargrilling is my favorite so that you burn that sugar a little bit on the grill. That’s the best part, to me.”

Jeffrey Zepatos, owner of The Arcade Restaurant: “We used to do barbecue at the Arcade. And we had a barbecued grilled cheese sandwich. So, I’d stick to something along those lines. Smoked pulled pork barbecue on Texas toast with a smoked cheddar cheese to top it off. Now we obviously don’t have smokers at the Arcade, so I was buying a great pork shoulder from a local vendor that we could heat up on our griddle. I think that was fun because it added flavor from our griddle to the barbecue, which gave it a unique taste from all the bacon and sausage we cook on it.”

Mario Gagliano, Libro chef/owner: “I’m from Memphis and I only know pork ribs with that classic vinegary Memphis sauce. All I’d do is take some baby backs and massage them with a nice dry rub, lightly sear it on low heat so as not to burn the sugars in the rub. Flip them and render some of that flavor off the bone. Then halfway submerge the ribs in boiling pork stock. Cover in foil and cook in the oven for a couple hours on 400 degrees. Remove them, brush some Memphis barbecue sauce and broil for a few minutes. Essentially, braising the pork, but it falls off the bone, super tender and moist. And you can find it cooked just like this at Libro at Laurelwood all through the month of May, baby.”

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Your Heart’s Desire: Local Restaurants Offer Valentine’s Take-Out Specials

Light the candles. Start the mood music. Scatter the rose petals. And let Memphis area restaurants provide the romantic Valentine’s Day dinners. Several local establishments put all their hearts into creating dinners you can pick up and enjoy in the privacy of your own love nest. Here’s a sampling:

Erling Jensen: The Restaurant
at 1044 South Yates Road (901 763-3700) is featuring its Valentine’s Day To-Go, which includes clam and potato bisque and an arugula, pear, chèvre, and almond salad with saba vinaigrette; your choice of a 16-ounce beef Wellington or prosciutto-wrapped sea bass served with au gratin potatoes and roasted asparagus; and chocolate-covered strawberries. The dinner for two is $190. There will be an additional cost to interchange the options. Note: Erling’s also will be offering a half-dozen chocolate-covered strawberries for $25 on February 12th, 13th, and 14th.

Chef Tam’s Underground Cafe at 668 Union Avenue (901 207-2598) is offering a Steak Valentine’s Box for two, which includes one tomahawk steak with buttered mushrooms, butter-herb asparagus, garlic smashed potatoes, four honey-butter rolls, grilled strawberry shortcake, two premium cocktails, and one bottle of champagne. Price: $165 with cocktails and wine or $140 without. Becky Githinji

Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza

Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza at 1761 Madison Avenue (901 410-8866) is providing a “fun, interactive Valentine’s meal” for two, says owner Miles Tamboli. His Valentine’s Dinner Date Meal Kit, which will be available February 13th and 14th, includes a bottle of rose or Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento (red or white) wine, an appetizer, pizza dough, sauce, and toppings; a recipe card so you can make your own pizza;, and tiramisu for two. Price: $59.95.

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen at 712 West Brookhaven Circle (901 347-3569), Catherine & Mary’s at 272 South Main Street (901 254-8600), and The Gray Canary at 301 South Front (901 249-2932) are offering a four-course Valentine’s Day Take & Bake dinner for two. First course: salmon tartare with trout roe, apple, crème fraîche, fine herb, versus bianco, and C&M cracker. Second course: Gemelli lobster amatriciana, with panna gratta and basil. Third course: beef tenderloin with root vegetable purée and black truffle bordelaise. Fourth course: chocolate sticky butter toffee pudding with brown butter pecan powder and salted caramel gelato. Wine is an Arnaud Lambert Château de Brézé Crémant de Loire cabernet rosé. The special can be ordered at any of the restaurants until February 11th. Pickup is between noon and 5 p.m. February 13th. Price: $125.

Iris at 2146 Monroe (901 590-2828). Iris partnered with Muddy’s Bakeshop, Joe’s Wine & Liquor, and Rachel’s Flower Shop. The package for two includes an artisan cheese and accoutrement plate, your choice of slow-roasted American kobe short ribs or red snapper and Gulf shrimp court bouillon. These are served with sides of grits and roasted Brussels sprouts. Also, two Muddy’s cupcakes, six roses from Rachel’s, two chocolate martinis from Second Line, and a bottle of Constantia Uitsig South African sparkling wine from Joe’s. And it comes with a card for you to pour your heart into to whoever you’re sharing (or not sharing) the package with. Price: $165.

Magnolia & May at 718 Mount Moriah (901 676-8100) is offering a Filet and House-Made Pasta Magnolia Farm Chef Box for two. It includes local veggies, including Bluff City Fungi mushrooms, and a mustard cream sauce. The box comes with a recipe card and a YouTube video link with preparation instructions. Wine pairings can be added, or you can order a cocktail box, which features Maker’s Mark whiskey and includes a recipe card and video link with directions to make an old fashioned and a blueberry basil smash. Price: $44 for the dinner box and $50 for the cocktail box if it’s ordered with the dinner box. The price is $55 for the cocktail box if it’s ordered separately.

Sweet Grass at 937 Cooper Street (901 278-0278) is featuring a Valentine’s Day Prime Rib Dinner for Two that includes a winter cobb salad, loaded baked potatoes, horseradish cream, Boursin- and pistachio-stuffed piquillo peppers with black garlic honey, artisan rolls with whipped butter, chocolate-covered strawberries, and a bottle of wine. Price: $99 plus tax or $79 plus tax without wine.

Sunrise Memphis at 670 Jefferson Avenue (901-552-3168 ) is doing Valentine’s Day breakfasts: brioche bread with cheesecake frosting and a chocolate drizzle, topped with a chocolate-covered strawberry, for $14; and a Southern Surf and Turf Benedict: pan-fried country ham with fried oysters on an open-faced biscuit, topped with champagne hollandaise and scallions, for $15. Sunrise also will offer “breakfast in bed” delivery via Chow Now online at sunrise901.com. Sunrise recommends ordering early in the day because delivery orders between 10 a.m. and noon are sometimes severely delayed.

Cocozza American Italian at 145 S. Main Street patio (901 523-0523 to order), is offering a That’s Amore Valentine’s Dinner take-out special that includes an aperitivo: a Sicilian Spritzer, house-made of arancello, prosecco and pellegrino; a salad: roasted pepper Caprese with Buffalo mozzarella, re-roasted sweet peppers, basil, olive oil, and balsamic glaze, or a Caesar with romaine, parmesan, croutons, and creamy garlic dressing; pasta: Seafood Cannelloni, which are delicate crepes filled with shrimp, lobster, and crab and baked in a sherry cream sauce with parmesan, or a vodka rigatoni: lightly spiced tomato vodka cream. Entree is a choice of a six-ounce filet mignon Barolo, with red wine reduction, cremini mushrooms, and roasted potato wedges; Herb Crusted Salmon with roasted Brussels sprouts, champagne citrus butter, and balsamic drizzle; or Chicken Cocozza: chicken cutlets sautéed with artichokes, peas, prosciutto, and basil Alfredo. Desserts are a chocolate raspberry torte or a Grande Marnier Creme Caramel. Price: $75 per person plus tax and to-go fee, which includes a cocktail.

Cocozza also is offering the Lady & the Tramp Package, which includes a red-and-white checkered linen tablecloth, a red glass globe candle, and a Cocozza Valentine’s Spotify playlist code. Price: $20. Ask about to-go Wine & Bubbles specials. The take-outs will be available for curbside pick-up at the time you specify on February 14th. Unless they’re sold out, orders may be placed up to 2 p.m. on February 14th.

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Cover Feature News

Eat Your Veggies: 11 Great Vegetarian Dishes from Memphis Restaurants

As any vegetarian or vegan will tell you, meat is not an essential ingredient in a hearty, satisfying meal. Around town, a multitude of options abound. From ramen and pizza to nachos and hot dogs, you can cure just about any craving with a veggie-packed dish. Here are a few of our staff favorites, procured from local restaurants.

Julia Baker

Vegetarian Crazy Noodle

Crazy Noodle, Miso Ramen or Vegetarian Crazy Noodle

Getting a pick-up order at The Crazy Noodle on Madison is a reminder of two matters: (1) There are things to do with noodles (er, udon) other than make spaghetti. And (2) Korean cuisine favors spicy dishes.

The popular Miso Ramen is a case in point. A soupy mix of spinach, tofu, onions, carrots, zucchini, cabbage, and the aforementioned udon stirred into a tangy bean paste broth, this dish awakens the palate and is hearty enough to be a complete meal.

Another good bet is the Vegetarian Crazy Noodle, with similar ingredients, including shiitake mushrooms and Korean radish and just the right amount of red pepper — not so much as to make you take breaks between bites but not so little as to escape your notice. The dishes range from $9.99 to $10.99, and service on the pick-up orders is quick and thoughtful. — Jackson Baker

2015 Madison, 272-0928

Roger Sapp

Portabella Mushroom Sandwich

Central BBQ, Portabella Mushroom Sandwich

You’re sitting at Central BBQ surrounded by meat, but you don’t want meat. Try the portabella mushroom “barbecue” sandwich. It’s a hefty sandwich with portabella instead of pork. A portabella already tastes a lot like meat, but the folks at Central add barbecue sauce, slaw, and other fixings and — voila! — you’ve got a faux barbecue sandwich.

The sandwich was born when they were “looking for a vegetarian item” to serve, says Roger Sapp, one of the owners. Fellow owner Craig Blondis suggested a grilled portabella mushroom. “We marinate it in olive oil and balsamic vinegar,” Sapp says. “Then we throw it on the grill and serve it like you would a barbecue.” They top it with smoked Gouda cheese and serve it on a bun. If you’re vegan, ask them to leave off the cheese.

Craig’s wife, Elizabeth Blondis, likes the portabella mushroom sandwich with Central BBQ’s mustard sauce. “It makes it not so sweet,” she says. “Just a little bit more savory.” — Michael Donahue

Multiple locations including 2249 Central, 272-9377

Shara Clark

RP Tracks, BBQ Tofu Nachos

RP Tracks, BBQ Tofu Nachos

Pre-COVID, my sister, who admittedly isn’t the most adventurous eater, tried tofu for the first time at RP Tracks — the BBQ Tofu Nachos, to be exact — and loved it. Crispy on the outside with a soft center and tossed in a sweet barbecue sauce, the tofu nuggets are layered underneath loads of lettuce, tomatoes, jalapeño peppers, cheddar cheese, and black bean chili (be sure to request the bean chili rather than meat for the full-on vegetarian version). All that veggie goodness is piled high on a bed of tortilla chips and topped with a dollop of sour cream. It’s a generous, shareable helping for the price ($10) and a great starting point for the tofu-curious. Really, who doesn’t love a good nacho?

There are plenty of other veggie-friendly dishes on the menu, but don’t sleep on the tofu version of Pedro’s Wings. Strips of fried tofu are covered in your choice of wing sauce, and believe me when I tell you, it’s surprisingly close to the real thing. They’ve even got vegan ranch to dip ’em in. — Shara Clark

3547 Walker, 327-1471

Matthew J. Harris

Golden India, Palak Paneer

Golden India, Palak Paneer

When I was a freshman in college, I made a short, unsuccessful stint of going vegetarian. Though I quickly gave in at the first hint of pulled pork at a football tailgate, the experience did cement my love for Indian cuisine and for one dish in particular: palak paneer.

The dish, also incorrectly referred to as green paneer depending on where you are in the U.S., is a spinach curry composed mainly of a mix of Indian cottage cheese, or paneer, and puréed spinach. The dish is then served over rice with a side of naan, creating a fairly light but filling meal.

In town, Golden India makes some of the best palak paneer. With mild, medium, and hot — and dear lord is it hot — their palak paneer can please just about any palate. My go-to meal is palak paneer, garlic naan, and a mango lassi. — Matthew J. Harris

2097 Madison, 728-5111

Samuel X. Cici

The Doghouzz, Beyond Memphis Dog

The Doghouzz, Beyond Memphis Dog

If it looks like a dog, feels like a dog, and tastes like a dog, then it’s probably a regular ol’ hot dog, right? Wrong.

The Doghouzz’s full menu can take any selection and swap out an all-beef frank for a Beyond Meat dog. It’s all the hot-diggity-dog goodness of a regular dog bundled up in a nice, vegan package. If you want to keep it quintessentially Bluff City, there’s no going wrong with the classic Memphis Dog. Packing in some staples of 901 dining, the Memphis Dog is slathered with barbecue sauce and smothered under a bed of coleslaw, for good measure. And to provide that last bit of extra kick, don’t get it without the serving of sliced jalapeños.

Perhaps the highest compliment, from this longtime carnivore, at least, is that I couldn’t tell I wasn’t munching on a “real” hot dog. The Doghouzz’s vegan twist on a long-standing fixture of American dinners, festivities, and events makes the “dog” more accessible than ever. — Samuel X. Cicci

1349 Autumn, 207-7770

Sweet Grass / Twitter

Sweet Grass, General Tso’s Cauliflower

Sweet Grass, General Tso’s Cauliflower

Food swaps aren’t fun. Zoodles for noodles? Okay, but c’mon. Tofurkey? I get it, but geez.

The General Tso’s Cauliflower ($12) at Sweet Grass ain’t that. I don’t order it because I can’t have or don’t want fried chicken. (I always want fried chicken, btw.) I order the cauliflower because it’s got-damned delicious.

The Sweet Grass General Tso’s is generously coated in tempura and fried, giving the dish a meaty heft that’s substantial under the knife. Then it’s bathed in that classic, orange-brown sauce. Sweet Grass didn’t go haute cuisine on this. The sauce is that sweet, sticky, tangy, slightly hot stuff you know and love.

Together, the tempura and the sauce tenderly hug it all in a flavor parka. Then the whole thing is snuggled down on a bed of coconut rice and tucked in with a sprinkle of sesame seeds. Oh, and there’s cauliflower inside all of that. — Toby Sells

937 Cooper, 278-0278

Julie Ray

Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant, Yetsome Beyaynetu

Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant, Yetsome Beyaynetu

Open the doors to Abyssinia and you are transported to a friendly village in Africa. In this village, the porous injera bread made from teff, a mineral-rich, gluten-free whole grain high in protein, is abundantly stacked in poly bags for takeout.

Owner-operator Meseret “Missy” Abdi serves a visually tantalizing palette of color synonymous with George Hunt Memphis in May artwork — only with food. A menu item called Yetsome Beyaynetu overflows with split spicy red lentils, split yellow peas, collard greens, mixed vegetables, potato salad, and beet salad. It is beautiful and tasty with flavorful spices. Abdi says the menu item is vegan, too.

Dining in Ethiopia is characterized by the ritual of breaking injera and eating from the same plate. Bring friends and partake in this custom signifying the bonds of loyalty and friendship over melded flavors of exotic spices, sweet and savory vegetables, and curiously sour yet nutty injera bread. — Julie Ray

2600 Poplar, #115, 321-0082

Jesse Davis

Crisy Ginger Tofu

Soi Number 9, Crispy Ginger Tofu

Inside the unassuming takeout box is a lunch ready to launch my taste buds on a meatless, ginger-tinged journey to FlavorTown. I open the folded cardboard lid and steam escapes. I got my lunch delivered (GrubHub for the win) from Soi Number 9.

On more than one occasion, I’ve snagged a mid-festival lunch from the familiar orange food truck, so a dish from Soi Number 9 is a little like having a mini-festival in my kitchen. In this year of no gatherings, well-prepared comfort food gives reason enough to celebrate.

Though the Thai street food vendors started with a food truck, they also operate a brick-and-mortar business inside the UT Health Science Center Food Hall. This is the first time I’ve tried the Crispy Ginger Tofu ($9.75), and it does not disappoint. The dish is made with seasoned tofu strips and stir-fried vegetables served with ginger soy, steamed jasmine rice, and cucumbers. The ginger gives the rice, in perfectly sticky clumps, a faint sweetness. The thinly sliced strips of tofu are light and crunchy. The fat slices of carrot may be the star of the show, though. Their crunch complements the crispy-on-the-outside, soft-inside tofu and the sticky rice.

For up-to-date information on the whereabouts of the food truck, check Soi Number 9’s social media pages. — Jesse Davis

920 Madison, 448-3443

Tamboli’s

Veggie Verdura Pizza

Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza, Veggie Verdura Pizza

Tamboli’s has become one of our regular go-to takeout options in recent months. Locally owned (chef and owner Miles Tamboli is an alumni of the Flyer‘s 20>30 Class of 2018), the restaurant is located in the former Fuel space on Madison.

We’re particularly fond of Tamboli’s hand-made pizzas. There are actually three vegetarian options: a savory cheese; the Cacio e Pepe (herbed ricotta topped with fresh mozzarella, pecorino Romano, cracked black pepper, and white truffle oil); and our favorite, the Veggie Verdura. Here’s how the menu describes it: “Topped with our savory red sauce, olive oil, garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, red onions, Bluff City Fungi’s shiitake mushrooms, Kalamata olives, ricotta, and a drizzle of roasted red pepper aioli on 14″ artisan dough.” The menu neglects to mention that it’s “tasty as a mug,” even if you’re not a vegetarian. It’s $14.25, and worth it. — Bruce VanWyngarden

1761 Madison, 410-8866

Alex Greene

Global Café

Global Café, various dishes

With three counters sporting the cuisines of Syria, Sudan, and Venezuela, it makes sense that the Global Café’s vegetarian game is strong. If you’ve had tabbouleh elsewhere, you may expect a lot of bulgur wheat. But, as a Lebanese anthropologist once told me, tabbouleh is really all about the parsley, and that’s very much the case in the Syrian version here. A more authentic example of the dish would be hard to find. The hummus and falafel plate is also quite fresh, with a strong tahini flavor. Both are vegan.

The menu notes that the spinach pie is not vegan, as it’s brushed with egg, but old-school vegetarians can still enjoy that or the cheese pie alternative. Be aware, though, that these do not resemble the classic Greek spanakopita, which uses phyllo dough, but are more like stuffed bread rolls.

Finally, I sampled some Venezuelan potato and cheese empanadas, or small, fried dough pockets (which can also be ordered with black bean filling). These are remarkably airy, and the garlic sauce served on the side complements them well. — Alex Greene

1350 Concourse, Suite 157, 512-6890

Laura Jean Hocking

Pho Binh, Lemongrass Tofu

Pho Binh, Lemongrass Tofu

People from outside Memphis never believe you when you tell them we have really excellent Vietnamese food here. It goes beyond the preconception of Memphis as a barbecue and hot wing town. But there has been a thriving Vietnamese community in the Bluff City since at least the 1970s, and our cuisine has benefited enormously.

Before the pandemic, Pho Binh, the modest, family-run Vietnamese restaurant on Madison Avenue, functioned as Midtown’s lunchroom. You’d see suited bankers rubbing shoulders with vegan crust punks and Black moms at the crowded buffet. Their vegetarian offerings are always top-notch. Whether sautéed in a rich black bean sauce or stir-fried with green beans, nobody does tofu better than Pho Binh.

The queen of the Pho Binh menu is the lemongrass tofu. Everyone is equal when they’re sitting at a table, picking at the remains of their buffet plate, waiting for the kindly cook to bring out a fresh pile of the dusky tofu cubes. Then, as she returns to the kitchen with an empty chafing dish, the vultures descend. Forget Antifa agitators, if there’s a riot in Midtown, it will start over lemongrass tofu.

What makes it so great? The texture is perfection: firm, but not rubbery; a little juicy, but not soggy. The uniform tofu blocks are heavily tossed with Pho Binh’s secret lemongrass concoction and fried. Serve over sticky white rice, and that’s it. No sauce or additional ingredients required. Perfection itself. It’s even better as takeout, because you don’t have to fight for it. — Chris McCoy

1615 Madison, 276-0006