Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

At the Plate

If you still haven’t visited Thyme Bistro, which opened last year, owner Rick Saviori is giving you yet another reason to check out his elegant continental cuisine. Thyme is now featuring Nonna’s Sunday Supper — an all-Italian and Italian-influenced menu.

Nonna is “grandmother” in Italian, and given Saviori’s heritage, it was only a matter of time before he paid tribute to his roots. “A lot of people for some reason think Thyme is Italian just because I am,” Saviori says. “I like doing Italian food. I just didn’t want to do a totally Italian restaurant. So doing it once a week, especially on Sunday nights when most places are closed, I thought would be a really good thing to draw people in.”

The offerings are a mix of traditional Italian recipes and non-traditional dishes with Italian flavors. The menu changes every Sunday, but the rudiments are the same: three or four fresh pasta dishes, seafood and meat entrées, the restaurant’s signature pizzas and salads, as well as some off-menu salads like the cornbread panzanella salad served to patrons a few Sundays ago. Other Nonna’s Sunday Suppers have dished up braised short-rib ragout with local shiitake mushrooms tossed with homemade fettuccini pasta; traditional lasagna with marinara sauce, local pork and beef, and béchamel; and roasted monkfish atop eggplant caponata and garnished with basil pesto. Thyme also uses locally sourced meat (pork from Newman Farm and ground beef from Donnell Farm).

You can get small plates of the bistro’s pasta specials for $6 to $9, entrées for $12 to $18, and fish dishes and meat dishes for $20 to $22. “I’m trying to keep everything priced like our regular menu — affordable,” Saviori says.

Nonna’s Sunday Supper is served from 5 to 9 or 10 p.m., depending on the crowd.

Thyme Bistro, 5689 Quince (552-4907), thymebistro.com

Memphians have a long-standing curiosity about the northeast corner of Cooper and Young. Formerly the home of Dish (and Melange and Cooper Street and Maxwell’s), this restaurant space has seen a number of turnovers for such a prime location. Enter Cortona Contemporary Italian. Making significant structural and design changes, chef David Cleveland and manager Leslie Billman (both formerly of Grisanti’s) are hoping Cortona will stand the test of time in a historically capricious locale.

Not only does Cortona boast a much more open feel (Cleveland literally moved walls and columns to open the dining area, separate the bathrooms, and offer a full view of the corner outside), but it will maintain typical restaurant hours (not past midnight) to keep the spot from becoming part of the club scene. New carpet and wood have replaced the concrete floors, making the space quieter and more inviting, and a new wall separates kitchen noise from the main dining room. They’ve also straightened and extended the front-room bar to provide more space for seating, and the patio will still be available for dining al fresco.

The name Cortona comes from the Italian city where Cleveland spent two years cooking, but the menu is a blend of cuisines from all over the Italian peninsula. Southern-style pizzas are listed alongside Northern pasta dishes (made with pasta crafted in-house).Fried calamari, a mushroom torta, and beef with pomodoro fresco, cream of artichoke soup, and salads with homemade dressings are all available to start. From there, you have a number of vegetarian options to choose from, including a roasted eggplant ravioli with spicy Arrabbiata sauce, crumbled goat cheese and toasted slivered almonds, and vegetable lasagna with fresh spinach, wild mushrooms, béchamel sauce, and five cheeses. Meat-based pastas and entrées include roasted chicken and asparagus ravioli with walnut cream, pesto, pine nuts, and shaved Reggiano cheese and grilled salmon with horseradish potato doughnuts, spinach, and rosemary-garlic citrus sauce. Pastas, pizzas, and entrées range from $9.50 to $17.50.

Cleveland and Billman hope to have Cortona open on February 1st. They will have full bar service with imported beer by the bottle, small selection of local brews on tap, and wines ranging from $20 to $40.

Cortona will be open for dinner every day from 5 to 10 p.m. and until around 11 p.m. on the weekends.

Cortona Contemporary Italian, 948 S. Cooper (729-0101)

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

In With the New

Located in the former Jarrett’s site, Thyme Bistro opened recently and offers continental fare at affordable prices.
“I want this to be a neighborhood restaurant,” says owner
Rick Saviori, “a place people can come to once or twice a week.”

Saviori, a former chef at Ciao Bella,says he pounced on the opportunity toopen a restaurant in this location. While
Jarrett’s was a beloved fine-dining spot in Memphis, it became a place for special occasions” something Saviori wants to avoid. He has set lunch prices at $12 or less and dinner at $20 or less. Wines max out at $35.

Few changes were made to the layout of the restaurant. Dining rooms still fan out from the bar area, and two banquet rooms are situated off to the side of the restaurant. (Saviori says he will hold off using the banquet rooms until July or August, once the operation settles in.)

A pleasant patio area (that many may not have known existed at Jarrett’s) is perfect for Thyme’s spring opening. Saviori trimmed back some of the foliage, planted an herb garden, and hung up lights. Trees and adjacent buildings offer the right balance of shade and light, an enticement for al fresco diners.

The menu offers a variety of styles and influences: Spanish deviled eggs with shrimp and roasted red peppers, pasta Bolognese with house-made pasta, to beef brisket hash with tomatillo sauce. The restaurant also has pizzas and a basic
kid’s menu.

The lunch offerings are pared-down versions of the dinner menu, with smaller pizzas and sandwiches and salads. Check out the Thyme burger, topped with baby spinach, Muenster cheese, fried green tomato, and roasted garlic aioli.

Thyme Bistro is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11
a.m. to 2:30 p.m., for dinner Tuesday through Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m.


Thyme Bistro, 5689 Quince (552-4907)
thymebistro.com


The Villa
has a story similar to Thyme’s. Owners Bill and Carla Baker (also owners of Bayou Bar and Grill) have transitioned from the more expensive and upscale Le Chardonnay to the Villa,a more affordable and relaxed Italian restaurant. The days of French cuisine in the dark, intimate Le Chardonnay are over, but the slightly brighter space suits the new concept: more family-friendly lunch and dinner and a bar worthy of late-night crowds.

Entre’s at Le Chardonnay ran from $20 to $25; at the Villa, lunch comes in under $14 and dinner under $16. That’s not the only difference. An expanded bar offers more casual seating. The pizzas and calzones made in the wood-fired oven are now made with fresh, housemade dough. And, of course, the menu now offers distinctly Italian cuisine.

Chef Steven Robilio is using family recipes for the Bolognese and has a ravioli recipe that he says is around 110 years old. He uses Neola Farms beef for the meatballs, hamburgers, and Bolognese sauce, and he visits the farmers market at the Botanic Garden once a week. Another local touch, and one that seems to be a trend in area restaurants, is the art for sale on the walls, provided by local artists Judy Vandergrift and Jennifer Hyatt.

The Villa has an outdoor patio and a happy hour every day from 4 to 7 p.m., with $1 off beer, wine, and liquor. They are open Monday through Friday for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday through Thursday for dinner from 5 to 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to midnight.


The Villa, 2094 Madison (725-1375)
thevillamemphis.com