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Edge Energy

A bass-and-drum beat boomed over a party that pulsed around the twilight-and-neon-painted patio of Rock’n Dough.

Pizza scented the warm air. Plastic cups flowed with golden beer. Corn hole bags rattled, flew, and fell home. Balloon animals squeaked in the hands of delighted children. Duck pins crashed occasionally somewhere inside. Laughter and raucous conversation raised high over the entire scene, building a cathedral dome of fun and positive energy.

A new light switch flipped on in The Edge District that Friday night in early May. The once-vacant building (that formerly housed Trolley Stop Market) came alive again and drew scores to its shores for the promise of something new, exciting. The promise was delivered. The energy was electric, especially for that corner of town. But that sort of vibrancy is becoming more and more commonplace there.

New light switches are being flipped on all over The Edge. No task force was formed for its revitalization. No hashtag was blasted on social media. No special study for it was ordered by the Memphis City Council.

That new energy is largely organic. It’s been fueled with years of care and investment by the Downtown Memphis Commission (DMC) and the Memphis Medical District Collaborative (MMDC).

But an ad hoc group of Edge stakeholders is forging the neighborhood, too. They gather and strategize (as they did recently) over a lunch snack of ribs and catfish bites at Arnold’s BBQ and Grill. Ad hoc, maybe, but their members are mighty. Henry Turley Co. The MMDC. Longtime landowners who own and manage key properties in The Edge. If you’ve ever been to Strangeways Wednesday for free food and drink, you’ve experience a portion of this group’s influence. You’ve also experienced their overall mood for The Edge: fun, communal, welcoming, and connected to the neighborhoods around it.

Let’s Go to The Edge

The Edge is just quirky. Its mother might say, “It has character.” And it certainly does.

No one can agree on its boundaries, for one. Not really. Is it Union and Madison from Manassas to Danny Thomas or onto Fourth? Broaden that to capture Health Sciences Park and Jefferson, right up to Victorian Village? No facts exist on this. Only opinions. The Edge doesn’t even have its own Wikipedia page like so many Memphis neighborhoods. Border disputes aren’t new or controversial, though. Just ask a local to define Midtown.

The streets in The Edge perform mind-bending shifts from the traditional city grid. Arrow-straight Monroe terminates in the heart of The Edge, only to curve slightly north where it transforms into Monroe Extended. What? Marshall crosses Monroe in the center of the neighborhood at an angle that defies the city’s parallel street design. Madison flies up and over (for one of the best views of the city) to meet up with its old self on the west side of Danny Thomas. Why? The DMC website says the “odd, zig-zag streets and alleys” were laid out to accommodate railroads in the 1800s.

Arnold’s BBQ and Grill (Photos: Ziggy Mack)
Sharrion Smith showcases Regular Order of Ribs combo at Arnold’s BBQ Shop in the Memphis Edge District for the Memphis Flyer on Saturday, June 1, 2024

Those twists and turns make The Edge full of surprises, too. Siri led me to Arnold’s on a recent visit. I arrived. Nothing around but Mutt Island. But Arnold’s was right on the map. I turned and spied a sign with a pig and an arrow on it. I followed it. Through a brick archway, down some stairs, and across a grass lot, I spied another pig sign. I followed it (and the scent of pork and hickory smoke) to Floyd Alley and found Arnold’s. I felt like I’d joined a secret club.

Years ago, Tommy Pacello, the late (and missed) director of the MMDC, gave me a big surprise on a bike tour of The Edge, which even then brimmed with opportunity in his endless optimism. We stopped at a weedy spot on the Madison bridge. He bid me look over. I found a deep, overgrown, urban canyon. From his experience with the successful Tennessee Brewery Untapped project, he said to imagine what could be done down there with some string lights and a few kegs of beer. That abandoned, forgotten canyon became The Ravine years later. 

The Ravine (Photo: Ziggy Mack)

In The Edge, paint and body shops sit cheek by jowl with architect firms, tattoo parlors, salons, arts organizations, souvenir shops, brand-new condos, breweries, the headquarters of one of the city’s biggest homegrown banks, and that huge, gold guitar hoisted high outside Sun Studio, maybe one of the most photographed spots in Memphis. All of this sits just outside the steel canopy of Downtown skyscrapers and the glow of summer lights over AutoZone Park.     

For all its quirks, defiant nature, and surprises, one thing is a fact about The Edge: Mike Todd, president and CEO of Premiere Contractors, came up with “The Edge” name. When he first got there, he said the place “was a total wasteland.”

“The Last Place on Earth”

Todd likes and dislikes the moniker “the Mayor of The Edge,” even though he admits it’s kind of true. His company bought Premiere Palace in the 1970s. Even though the area was not even close to up-and-coming, he decided Downtown and the Medical District were good bets. So he placed his.

The auto shops were there, giving credence to the area’s first use and nickname, “Auto Row.” The shops serviced the Downtown community, diminished as it was after white flight following Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination years before. Later, officials planned the area for a Biomedical Research Zone (BRZ). Landowners would get rich if they held onto their buildings, Todd says. But they never did because the BRZ never panned out.

But Todd didn’t leave. His company doubled down and bought the Stop 345 building on Madison in 1997. At one time he leased the building to a club called The Last Place on Earth, which hosted Eddie Vedder and Sonic Youth before its eventual close, he says. The trolley project came and took years longer than promised. This closed Madison and killed traffic there forever, Todd says. Tenants moved out but Todd didn’t give up.

“I couldn’t let this place just become this shit place under the bridge,” he says. “So, we ran that place for 20 years as various entities. Los Comales just moved in less than a year ago.”

Scott Bomar was 19 the first time he went to The Edge. His band, Impala, was recording an album at Sam Phillips Recording.

“I thought, man, this is where I want to work,” Bomar says. “Cut to a couple of decades later. Well, that’s where I work now.”

Even back in his teens, Bomar thought The Edge was cool. The automotive factories and auto shops were all there. He loves the new energy, too.

Rootstock Wine Merchants (Photo: Ziggy Mack)
Images of Rootstock in the Memphis Edge District for the Memphis Flyer on Saturday, June 1, 2024

“We have a lot of clients who come in from out of town,” he says. “It’s really great to be able to walk across the street to the wine shop [Rootstock Wine Merchants] to pick up something if we need it, or to go down to French Truck and get a coffee, or go to Rock’n Dough and get food. … It’s exciting that there’s so much stuff down there now that’s walkable.”

The Edge was “quiet” when Anthony Lee first got there back in 2004. Well, quiet during the day, anyway.

“It would activate at night because of the club there, which was at one point 616 Club, and then Apocalypse, and then Spectrum,” Lee says. “Then, it was a strip club. So that one little building used to activate it on weekend nights.”

Sun Studio (Photo: Ziggy Mack)

Lee is now the gallery manager at Marshall Arts, an Edge pioneer, founded by Pinkney Herbert. The studio and gallery was converted from an automotive shop, Lee says, just like Sun Studio and many other buildings in The Edge.

“Makers and the craftspeople and the artists kind of converted some of those buildings and [The Edge] took on another quality,” Lee says. “It became sort of like the craft district.

“Pinkney Herbert was probably the first artist that imported that format from New York City. He created Marshall Arts in 1992 with his wife. He saw what they were doing up with there with all those old buildings in SoHo and the Lower East Side and decided to bring a similar idea back to Memphis.”

Lee lists a bevy of artists and craftspeople still working in The Edge with woodworking shops, recording studios, a greeting card studio, and more. With the club gone, he says, the area shares a “two-fold personality” with car maintenance and the arts. 

“For years, this was a forgotten neighborhood, but sandwiched by growth in the Medical District and the vibrant Downtown Core, all eyes are now on The Edge as businesses, breweries, and restaurants have all become neighborhood staples,” says the DMC website.

New(ish) Faces

Energy pulsed into The Edge before Orion Federal Credit Union got there. High Cotton opened in 2013, for example, and Edge Alley in 2016. But the Memphis company’s 2019 move from Bartlett to Monroe in the old Wonder Bread factory was a power station large enough to buoy confidence and development in the neighborhood.

“The location in The Edge was chosen when the Orion leadership agreed that the organization could strategically position their corporate headquarters to anchor a historic Memphis neighborhood, end blight, spur commercial and residential growth, and reinforce a critical connection between the Medical District and Downtown Memphis,” says Orion’s board chair Andre Fowlkes.

The Wonder Bread factory sat vacant from 2013 to 2019, making the stretch of Monroe near the building and several surrounding properties “a visible eyesore that could be seen from high-traffic areas including Downtown Memphis and Sun Studios,” the company said in a statement. Instead of tearing down the factory and leveling the block, Orion chose to keep the original shape and bones of the building and added a third story. A new, period-appropriate exterior facade was made of reclaimed bricks from the original building. And, of course, Orion kept that iconic, old-school Wonder Bread sign. 

“A better Memphis means a better Orion, and the headquarters move to The Edge was our commitment to the city,” says Orion CEO Daniel Weickenand. “A strong city core can create a ripple effect for development and energy throughout the region. We’re proud to be a part of that.”

That ripple effect is real (just check our sidebar with a list of all the new businesses and real estate developments). The energy is clearly there. Chef Joshua Mutchnick saw it and grabbed on tight. His JEM (Just Enjoy the Moment) restaurant opened in The Edge in April.

“Since day one, we had our eyes on The Edge District because we saw it as this up-and-coming neighborhood that has some iconic landmarks in it, like Sun Studio, Sam Phillips Recording, the Edge Motor Museum,” Mutchnick says. “It has so much potential and we feel very lucky to be a part of that, and that we got on the boat before it left the harbor.

“There was concern once we saw Orleans Station being built. We were like, ‘Maybe we missed the ship. It’s too expensive or we’re getting boxed out,’ but we nailed it.”

Sheet Cake Gallery (Photos: Ziggy Mack)
Interiors of Sheetcake Gallery in the Memphis Edge District for the Memphis Flyer on Saturday, June 1, 2024

Sheet Cake Gallery, a contemporary art gallery, opened on Monroe late last year. Its owner, Lauren Kennedy worked closely with MMDC and DMC on many art projects through her work as executive director of the UrbanArt Commission.

“I was familiar with all of the work and investment they have been making in The Edge, and that felt like something I wanted the gallery to be apart of,” Kennedy says. “The support I have felt from both groups from when I first started looking at spaces through to being open has been incredible for me. Everything has felt just right.”

When asked what drew Memphis Made Brewing Co. to open a new taproom in The Edge, co-founder Drew Barton says the answer was simple: Tommy Pacello.

“When we told Tommy we were looking for a bigger production space, he immediately began telling us about every space in The Edge he could think of,” Barton says. “It didn’t take long after that to find our new spot. We walked into what is now the production space and knew it would be perfect for us.

“At that point we didn’t even know about The Ravine. Once we heard more about the massive outdoor space tucked away in The Edge, we couldn’t wait to open a taproom with The Ravine being our backyard.”

As for when that taproom will open, Barton says, “We did end up having to wait a little while during the pandemic, but we are aiming to have the taproom open in late July.”

Leaders

At least three groups look after The Edge: the DMC, the MMDC, and that group of local stakeholders. (An Edge District Association is listed on the DMC website, but the link to the group takes you to a foreign football gambling site with the URL northcountrycremationservice.com.)

The DMC has for years offered a host of incentives to spur growth in The Edge and throughout Downtown. It offers tax breaks, loans, grants, and other programs to promote the vibrancy of all Downtown.

The MMDC is in its eighth year improving and transforming the Medical District for some of the city’s biggest medical anchors like University of Tennessee Health Science Center, Methodist Le Bonheur Healthcare, and Regional One Health. The group’s quiver of incentives helps people improve their properties, recruit new businesses, create new signage, and more. MMDC has invested $2 million in grants alone since its inception.

More than 20,000 people work in the 700-acre Medical District. But less than 2 percent of them live there. MMDC president Rory Thomas says most people would want to live close to where they work, “but if you don’t have the right housing stock and supply, that becomes a challenge.”

Bridging this gap is now a strategic objective for MMDC. Thomas rattles off a long list of new-ish, available apartment buildings — Orleans Station, The Rise Apartments, The Tomorrow Building headed for the Cycle Shop — all of them in The Edge. Fill those with professionals or students from the many medical organizations and The Edge would buzz with new foot traffic that could then drive new business recruitment and overall improvement of the commercial corridors there.

The DMC and the MMDC work closely together on all of this and more, Thomas says. They both work with that less formal group of Edge stakeholders that met at Arnold’s recently. This group (which featured members of the MMDC that day) has eyes on the bigger picture but also focuses on more on-the-ground issues.

How can we make The Edge more walkable and connected? Could Memphis Brand do a “We Are Memphis” billboard for the neighborhood? Should we make flyers with a QR-code link to an events calendar that we hand out to visitors? All of it to promote the neighborhoods, connect them, and bring more folks in.

Alex Turley, CEO of Henry Turley Co., praised the success of other Memphis neighborhoods like Cooper-Young and South Main. But he says The Edge, the Medical District, and Victorian Village have something those neighborhoods don’t: a major employment center.

“One of our goals was to create a seamless connection from those institutional buildings right into a neighborhood,” Turley says. “That informed the scale and the design of what we built at Orleans Station.

“You have Victorian Village and The Edge. There’s this opportunity to help populate this neighborhood. You already have an established brand for a neighborhood. But how do we get those people who work and go to school in those institutional buildings to come across Manassas? That’s what we keep hearing. They say, ‘We never come across [Manassas].’”

“Wasteland” to Next Big Thing

Remember when South End didn’t have a name? It was vacant, derelict, and spooky, according to some. Remember those blighted warehouses? Now think of how busy it can be at Loflin Yard or Carolina Watershed. Now think about all those apartments — completely filled — where those spooky, old warehouses used to be.

It’s a familiar cycle now if you think of South Main back in the 1990s or Broad Avenue a decade ago. The Edge could be next.

Energy continues to build there and energy has a way of attracting more energy. Big pieces are in place. Optimism is high. Leaders are motivated. And it truly is a community effort in The Edge.

“A win for one is a win for all,” says Meredith Taylor, communications and engagement associate with the MMDC. “Talk to the businesses in The Edge and they’ll say one reason they decided to choose it for the roots of their business is that they feel supported by one another, that when they succeed, all the other businesses succeed as well.

“I do think that’s something that’s very special to The Edge District. I think The Edge is a good backdrop to create and build on the sense of place that’s already existing.” 

… … … … … … … … … …

New Neighborhood Businesses Opened or Announced:

• JEM

• Rootstock Wine Merchants

• Inkwell

• Ugly Art Co.

• Sheet Cake Gallery

• Contemporary Arts Memphis

• HOTWORX – Edge District

• Rock’n Dough Pizza

• French Truck Coffee

• SANA Yoga

• Lavish Too A Luxe Boutique

• Memphis Made Brewing Co.

• Flyway Brewing Company (announced)

• Cafe Noir (announced)

• LEO Events

• Hard Times Deli (announced)

Real Estate Developments:

• Orleans Station – 372 residential units, 16,000 square feet commercial space

• University Lofts – 105 residential (micro) units

• The Rise Apartments – 266 residential units

• 757 Court – 45 residential units, 2,400 square feet commercial space

• 620-630 Madison – three residential units, 8,700 square feet commercial space

Rendering of the Chestnut Cycle Shop and Tomorrow Building (Photo: CHESTNUT CYCLE SHOP QOZB LLC; CCRFC)

• Tomorrow Building/Cycle Shop 

• 616 Marshall/Inkwell/Ugly Art Co. 

• Revival Restoration (rehab) – 12,270 square feet commercial space

• 433 Madison – 2,922 square feet commercial space

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Cover Feature News

Beer Boom

Craft beer changed here in 2013 — and it changed Memphis.

Drinking local a decade ago gave Memphis beer fans two choices: a trip to Boscos or picking up a sixer of Ghost River Golden. 

However, that year, 2013, promised to be a watershed, flowing rivers of local beers and new styles to the Memphis market. That promise was delivered.

“Within the next year,” the Flyer’s Hannah Sayle wrote in April 2013, “Memphis will have three new craft breweries.”

And it did. By year’s end, Wiseacre, Memphis Made, and High Cotton began production, raising the total local beer sources to five. This changed the craft beer game in Memphis. This first rush of local breweries opened a gate — but not a floodgate, exactly — to more brands and breweries here. It all led the way to triple the total local beer sources to 15 in 2023.

The 2013 beer boom was good news for the curious craft quaffer. But local beer’s rising tide raised many other boats. It has brought new opportunities for business and development, new tourist experiences, new ways to build community, and new ways to celebrate the city.

“When Wiseacre, High Cotton, and Memphis Made opened that year, that really launched a new era of craft beer in Memphis and paved the way for the vibrant scene that we have now,” Mike Erskine, founder and author of the Memphis Beer Blog, told the Flyer earlier this year. “Prior to 2013 for fans of craft beer, what you could buy in Memphis was really limited. Back then you might head to Walgreens in West Memphis to get beers that are not sold in Memphis. You might travel to Nashville and bring home beers from breweries that didn’t distribute in Memphis.

“So when those three breweries opened in 2013, there was a shift, and all of a sudden you had options for a good, local beer.”

Ghost River and Boscos were well-established in 2013. The Flying Saucer had poured craft styles from other markets since 1997. And other entrepreneurs had stabbed at (and missed) bringing local craft here before. Here’s how Sayle explained it in her 2013 Flyer story:

“Craft brewing entered the Memphis scene in the mid-1990s, when the first Boscos brewery and some other, less successful brewpubs opened around town. Chuck Skypeck [then] of Boscos and Ghost River Brewing Co. recalls a brewery in the old Greyhound station on Union Avenue, a chain brewpub on Winchester called Hops, and the Breckenridge Brewery above what is now The Majestic Grille, which still [at the time housed] all the old brewing equipment. Aside from Boscos, none of these brewpubs lasted more than a few years.

“In the mid-’90s, homebrewing hobbyists and beer nerds, whom Skypeck refers to as ‘old guys with beards,’ were determined to create an alternative to the big brewing industry: Anheuser-Busch and MillerCoors. The enterprising ones among them opened brewpubs, assuming the quality product would drive demand and a market for craft beers would build up around them.

“‘The younger consumer was drawn to Smirnoff Ice and flavored malt beverages and froufrou cocktails,’ Skypeck says. ‘I told people that craft beer has to attract the 21-to-25-year-old, or it’s not going to go anywhere. The sea change that’s made craft beer grow now is that the younger consumer is now on board.’”

Cans of Wiseacre’s Tiny Bomb (Photo: Wiseacre Brewing Co.)

Millennials and Memphis Pride

They were and still are. You can tell that by having a look around a local taproom. Much credit is heaped on millennials for craft beer’s rise. For proof, look at a market research paper from the National Bureau of Economic Research, “Millennials and the Take-Off of Craft Brands.”

“Millennials buy more craft beer than earlier generations,” reads the paper. “This shift in preference could overturn a nearly century-old structure dominated by a small number of national brands.”

In 2018, the Brewers Association said the huge millennial generation accounted for more than half (55 percent) of craft beer drinkers. They were willing to try new things, polls found, but they were also attracted to the authenticity of locally made beers over the mass-produced stuff still largely favored by baby boomers.  

Young people also loved where they lived and — as the urbanist adage goes — they wanted to “live where they lived.” In the early 2010s, a swell of civic pride gripped cities all over the U.S. Memphis was no different; just look to the Choose901 T-shirt catalog for proof.

Holly Whitfield fueled the I Love Memphis Blog for nearly a decade before helming the digital team at The Daily Memphian in February. The first story she worked on for the Memphis Tourism blog was about the opening of Wiseacre’s Broad Avenue taproom in September 2013. So while she had a front-row seat to beer and city pride for a long time, the movement was “about more than beer.”

“Breweries started serving as community gathering places, venues that can host other kinds of events like comedy shows, markets with Memphis artists, concerts with Memphis music, fundraisers — so, a gathering place for other aspects of culture,” Whitfield said. “They’re family-friendly, and casual, too.

“[Craft beer is] a local product with a local flair. The branding for a lot of breweries is locally flavored.

“Also, craft beer had been thriving in other places for a while so for Memphis to sort of finally have arrived and have our own scene, I think people were proud and happy about that.”

Younger drinkers and their love for the city helped push Memphis craft beer’s success forward. In turn, local beer helped forge a new Memphis identity and breathed new life into some dormant and sometimes “spooky” urban spaces. 

Sips ahoy at Memphis Brewfest (Photo: Memphis Brewfest)

Building with Beer

Urban planners might not have predicted that local beers and places to drink them could become building blocks to transform the city. But they did. The New York Times wrapped this idea up in a 2018 story headlined, “From Blight to Bright Lights in Memphis.”

“In a city long known for its crime problem, increased local efforts have transformed blighted areas into buzzy social hot spots, attracting tourists along the way,” reads the subheading. The story referenced Loflin Yard, Railgarten, Broad Avenue, the Tennessee Brewery, Rec Room, and more. All of them — in one way or another — were reactivated spaces because creative planners and developers gave Memphians a reason to go there, and many times that reason was to drink a local beer.

One sultry summer afternoon in 2014, the late Tommy Pacello looked around the packed courtyard of the once-crumbling, then-vibrant Tennessee Brewery and said, “It’s amazing what some string lights and a few kegs of beer can do.” The Tennessee Brewery Untapped event, which centered on a beer garden with local craft beer, drew thousands to the old building that spring and summer. For many, it was the first time they’d seen the building in years. For some, it was the first time ever.

We know now the brewery was saved from the wrecking ball, underwent a multi-million-dollar renovation, and is now the home of upscale apartments. Did Memphis craft beer save the building? Not on its own, of course. But it did draw people to the spot in a way that, say, local ice cream probably might not have.

It’s the same story with Loflin Yard and the south end of South Main. Overgrown and abandoned (save for carriage horses and their stables), the former safe and lock shop was an unlikely destination for anyone, local or tourist. But that changed in 2016 when visionaries reimagined the yard, its barn, and office as a hangout magnet with a laid-back yard, live music, and, of course, local craft beer.

“When I was in high school, I never would’ve thought in a million years that Florida and Carolina and Georgia would be a residential area,” Josh Whitehead, former director of the Memphis and Shelby County Office of Planning and Development, told the Flyer in 2016. “It was one-story, kind-of-cool brick warehouses. But at night, it was, you know, spooky. The street lights were always out, and it was all these dark brick warehouses from a thousand years ago.” 

Loflin Yard gave people a new place to go. Local craft beer gave them something to do there. Again, beer didn’t do it alone. But it’s an important ingredient in the special sauce.

Pacello agreed. In 2013, he was part of the Mayor’s Innovation Delivery Team. He later led the Memphis Medical District Collaborative. Pacello passed away in 2020. But he’s well remembered as one of the brightest, happiest advocates of Memphis, always finding ways to make it better through urban planning and development.

“There are lots of examples of craft breweries being urban pioneers and becoming an anchor for neighborhoods, especially if they have restaurants or taprooms associated with them,” Pacello told Sayle for her 2013 story. “They help activate the streets and become gathering spots for the neighborhood. Like how Boscos was a pioneer in Overton Square.

“All three of them [Memphis Made, High Cotton, and Wiseacre] have these common patterns. They’ve chosen core city neighborhoods, the key being neighborhoods. They’re not choosing to be buried in an industrial park. It’s a key part of revitalization. Is it a silver bullet? Probably not. But it’s definitely a key part.”

Memphis craft breweries are still creating destinations. They’ve opened their taps in different parts of town, giving even more people even more places to go, and something to do when they get there.

Eric Bourgeois is the marketing director for Packed House, the local-craft-beer-friendly parent company for Bardog Tavern, Slider Inn, Momma’s, and Aldo’s Pizza Pies. His company is a presenting sponsor of Memphis Brewfest, set for September 16th at the Memphis Sports & Events Center. 

On a recent call, Bourgeois referenced a Memphis beer map in his brain to point to Ghost River on South Main, High Cotton in The Edge, Grind City in the Snuff District, Soul & Spirits in Uptown, Wiseacre’s OG Broad Avenue location, and Memphis Made in Midtown.

“They’re creating all these different nodes and attractions for people to get out and experience local beer and, maybe, see a part of the city they hadn’t explored before,” he said. “From there, it branches out to the nearby retail and restaurant spots, a lot of which are partnered with those breweries. It’s a good synergy for everyone involved.”

All of this has helped to shape Memphis’ modern identity. The new places to go and new things to do gave a sense of moving forward. It helped give Memphis a new, positive narrative, and that helped push civic pride.

Grind City beers and a seltzer (Photo: Grind City Brewing Co.)

Beercation?

It’s a thing. Google it. Nielsen Media Data said an average American had visited 2.1 local breweries while traveling in the last year.

The Memphis Tourism website has a dedicated craft beer page that brags “our artesian wells produce the crisp water that has been filtered for 2,000 years to help create some of the best craft beer in the world.” That famous Memphis water is soft, and brewers say that’s great to create just about any style of beer they want.

Memphis probably does not rank high on beer tourists’ bucket lists, but many tourists make pints a point once they get here. Memphis Tourism even offers tourists a special Hop Stops program with directions to and descriptions of local breweries.

But Stephen Guenther’s company removes that step and takes beercationers directly to the breweries on the Memphis Brew Bus. It’s an example of at least one new business that began around the city’s craft scene. Every Saturday, tourists load up on the bus for a three-and-a-half-hour-long tour of three Memphis breweries. 

“It just really fit a certain class of traveler, like epicurean people who travel for food,” Guenther said of the tourists who board the Brew Bus looking for local craft beer. “[Craft beer] expanded our overall attractiveness to folks coming in. There’s just one more thing to do, especially when it’s hot here. When you can spend a Saturday afternoon with a cold beer on an air-conditioned bus; that’s a pretty good day.”

More sips and suds at Memphis Brewfest (Photo: Memphis Brewfest)

Where to?

Memphis craft beer has come a long way in the last 10 years. But there is room to go further, some say.

A few years ago, Kyle Johnson, an avid craft fan, moved to Memphis from Atlanta, a city with “an incredible brewery scene and overall beer scene” jammed with brewpubs and beer bars. He’s come across many beers here that are just “forgettable,” he said, and beer bars do too little marketing to make the scene seem fresh and exciting. 

Breweries here, Johnson said, either have all the same stuff to appease many tastes, or they brew to the tastes of the brewers with little regard for the market. Either way, Johnson hopes Memphis breweries will take more chances down the road.

“More people are coming through this city either via tourism or just moving here in general, and a lot of them have experienced other cities,” Johnson said. “If you take a chance and try something new or possibly ‘out of the norm’ for Memphis, you might be surprised that it’s what the crowds are craving.”

There’s another national craft beer trend that vexes industry insiders and makes outsiders roll their eyes at craft as a “white person thing:” racial diversity. It’s a nationwide issue but is easily seen in Memphis. Just have a look around many local taprooms. 

The latest study (in 2018) by the Brewers Association, the industry group for small and independent brewers, showed that more than 85 percent of craft drinkers were white. Minority groups made up the rest, and while that was an increase, it wasn’t enough.

“Given that only 68.7 percent of the 21+ U.S. population is non-Hispanic white, that’s not progress,” the study said. “Minority craft drinkers are growing, but only because the total population of craft drinkers is growing, not because craft drinkers are getting more diverse along racial lines.”

What’s Ahead?

In our 2013 beer story, Sayle called Skypeck “the godfather of craft brewing in Memphis.” He left Memphis that year for a job with the National Brewers Association group.

While he’s not current on the Memphis beer scene, he said he’s seeing the craft beer industry leveling off. Brewers, like many other businesses, are facing the headwinds of inflation. For example, the costs of malt and cans rose by 40 percent recently, he said. This could mean Memphis might not see many new breweries soon.

But Skypeck said the leveling off could just be a market cycle as craft beer competes with other products like hard seltzers, flavored malt beverages, and, now, ready-to-drink cocktails. But, Skypeck said, “Those things come and go, and craft beer always stays.” 

In his 30 years in the craft beer business, Skypeck said he’s heard many ring the death knell for his industry, especially when a high-profile brewery closes.

“How many times do you see a high-profile restaurant close and people say it’s the end of dining out?” he asked. 

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Cover Feature News

Untapped!

Years ago, some anonymous graffiti artist adorned a piece of plywood nailed onto the long-abandoned Tennessee Brewery building with a painting of a snaggle-toothed green monster in a fedora. A thought bubble beside his head reads, “Inve$t in Good Time$!”

Justin Fox Burks

Doug Carpenter

The monster has become weathered over the years, with plywood cracks showing through his paint. But a group of enterprising Memphis movers and shakers have taken his message to heart. In an effort to both save the historic Tennessee Brewery from demolition and have a good time in the process, the group is investing their own money and time to put on an event dubbed “Tennessee Brewery Untapped.”

Every Thursday through Sunday from April 24th through June 1st, the courtyard and two inside rooms of the brewery will be converted into a beer garden with local craft brews, food trucks, pop-up retail, live music, and more.

Justin Fox Burks

Taylor Berger

Restaurateur Taylor Berger, attorney Michael Tauer, commercial real estate executive Andy Cates, and communications specialist Doug Carpenter are pouring money into this last-ditch effort to save the endangered brewery.

Mayor’s Innovation Delivery Team project managers Tommy Pacello and Abby Miller, who have organized similar pop-up events through the mayor’s office, have been consulting with the team. And Doug Carpenter & Associates public relations specialist Kerry Hayes has contributed ideas and promotion for the event.

Kevin Norman, who owns the brewery under the name Tennessee Brewery LLC, bought the building in an effort to save it back in 1997. But after years of failed deals with potential buyers, Norman has plans to demolish the building by the end of July if no one steps forward to purchase it before then.

“They have a termination clause available for the first six months, and they know they can sell the land after that. There are ongoing expenses with holding this type of building,” says the building’s leasing agent James Rasberry. “That six months has already started, and come the end of July, we will be seeing a demolition crew working on that building. The clock is ticking, no question.”

Enter “Tennessee Brewery Untapped.” The idea behind the free, open-to-the-public pop-up event is to showcase the brewery in a new light and, perhaps, demonstrate the building’s untapped potential. It’s a form of pre-vitalization, a new urbanist tactic exhibiting ways the building could be revitalized before any revitalization efforts are in place.

By holding the event in just the courtyard and two bottom-floor rooms, the event’s sponsors are hoping to show potential investors that revitalizing the building doesn’t have to be a multi-million dollar project.

“Finish the courtyard and the two rooms we’re using, put in some bathrooms, and have some weddings there for a year or two,” says Tauer. “Build up some capital and take on another room, and then we don’t have to lose that beautiful building at the end of the summer.”

Justin Fox Burks

helped do layout drawings for the set up of Tennessee Brewery Untapped; Larry Bloch a former owner of the Tennessee Brewery building surveys the progress with James Raspberry

From Brewery to Beer Garden

Up to 250,000 barrels of beer, including the Tennessee Brewing Company’s iconic Goldcrest 51, were brewed at 495 Tennessee Street in the brewery’s heyday at the turn of the 20th century. And beginning Thursday, April 24th, beer will again flow at the old brewery.

In the past couple years, four craft breweries have popped up in Memphis, and all four — Ghost River, Wiseacre, High Cotton, and Memphis Made — will be serving their beers in the beer garden. Twelve taps will feature mostly local beers with a couple of regional offerings.

The beer garden will be open Thursday through Sunday until June 1st. Hours will be from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursdays and Sundays, with hours extended until 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Each Sunday from noon to 6 p.m., Untapped will host “Beer Garden with Benefits,” and $1 from each beer sale will be refunded back to customers in the form of a token. Those tokens can be placed in one of several buckets representing area nonprofits, such as Project Green Fork, Habitat for Humanity, and Church Health Center, among others. The event’s sponsors will match the nonprofit receiving the most tokens at the end of each Sunday.

Food trucks from Fuel, Stick ‘Em, Rock ‘n’ Dough, and others, will rotate throughout each weekend. Berger and Tauer, partners in the soon-to-open Truck Stop food truck court/restaurant at Cooper and Central, have parked their official Truck Stop truck in the brewery’s courtyard.

Justin Fox Burks

Andy Cates, Tommy Pacello, and Michael Tauer

“That will become the kitchen of the Truck Stop when it opens, but for [Untapped], we’re thinking about bringing in some different chefs and trying different types of cuisine,” Tauer says.

There will be pop-up retail from various local vendors, including designer T-shirt shop Sache, which created three shirts promoting the Untapped event, including one that features the aforementioned green monster.

Live music will be limited to acoustic acts, due to requests from residents of the surrounding South Bluffs neighborhood to keep the noise level low. Opening weekend will feature Caleb Sweazy on Friday, April 25th, and Apollo Mighty with Josh Crosby and Jeremy Stanfill of Star & Micey on Saturday, April, 26th, at 8 p.m.

The sponsors are penciling in entertainment schedules from week to week, rather than planning the entire line-up from the start to allow for a more free-flowing organic event.

“We don’t really know what will happen [from week to week], and oddly enough, I find that to be sort of liberating,” says Carpenter.

Neighborhood Concerns

When news first surfaced of the Untapped event about a month ago, a few South Bluffs residents raised concerns about having live music and beer in their usually quiet neighborhood, hence the booking of only acoustic acts.

“The neighbors helped us set the vibe,” says Cates, executive vice-president of brokerage services for Colliers International. “We don’t want people being mad at us for playing drums until 10 p.m.”

Don Hutson, a 20-year South Bluffs resident and the president of the South Bluffs Neighborhood Association, says he believes most residents are now supporting the event.

“We had a few people who were concerned that it would be noisy or there would be problems with them serving food and creating some kind of event we’re not used to,” Hutson says. “But apparently, it’s going to be well-done. And they promised us the music wouldn’t be too loud.”

Deni Reilly, who owns downtown’s Majestic Grille with her husband Patrick, is a South Bluffs resident, and she fully supports the event.

“It’s great that the event is family-friendly so we can wheel our baby over for the acoustic shows,” Reilly says. “We live in the shadow of the brewery, and we’d like to be able to call that beautiful building a neighbor for many years to come.”

South Bluffs neighbors were also initially concerned about parking, especially during the already congested Memphis In May weekends. The sponsors plan to use the grassy lot next to the building for parking on non-Memphis In May days, but since the lot is small, they are encouraging people to bike or trolley to the event.

Much work has been done to convert the littered brewery courtyard into an attractive event space. For four weekends prior to the event, the core group and volunteers from the neighborhood have been cleaning up the courtyard, building tables and a stage from repurposed palettes and reclaimed wood, and creating planters out of old tires to hold plants donated by the Memphis Botanic Garden.

“It’s been affirming that this is an idea people get behind, and it’s also yet another example of what makes this such a great town,” Tauer says. “We put a call out to see who would help us dig out years of dirt and broken glass. They worked their asses off.”

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

Finest Beer You’ve Ever Tasted

Those years of dirt and broken glass tell the story of a time when Memphis was still a young city and apparently home to lots of beer lovers.

On June 2, 1877, the Memphis Brewing Company, at that time run by S. Luehrmann, P. Wahl, and H. Leisse, served the first beer created at what is now known as the Tennessee Brewery, a mammoth Romanesque revival-style building at the corner of Tennessee Street and Butler Avenue.

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

In 1885, a group of German immigrants purchased the brewery for $18,000. Those three — John Wolfang Schorr, Caspar Koehler, and Peter Saussenthaler created the successful Goldcrest 51 beer.

Schorr was born in Bavaria and immigrated to the U.S. with his family at age 11. His father was in the brewing business, and he followed in his footsteps.

Schorr and company created lager beer in the Bavarian German style. Their pilsener (spelled “pilsner” today) was widely loved by Memphis beer drinkers in the late 1800s, so they expanded their operation and created other styles of beer. By 1903, the brewery was the largest in the South. In 1906, they introduced their flagship beer: Goldcrest (the “51” was added later for the 51st anniversary of the brewery).

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

Beer memorabilia collector Kenn Flemmons acquired many of the brewery’s original records, which he used to write a book called Finest Beer You’ve Ever Tasted, a history of the brewery. He found the original recipe for Goldcrest beer in those records, and with the help of some micro-brewing friends, Flemmons pared the recipe down and brewed it.

“It was perfectly good directions on how to make 250 barrels of Goldcrest 51 beer. We had to do some research to find the type of hops they used, and we never did find the exact strain of yeast,” says Flemmons, who will be speaking at the Untapped event and signing copies of his book on Saturday, April 26th, at 12:30 and 3:30 p.m. “But it tastes like a typical American lager from the early 1950s.”

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

Throughout its history, Tennessee Brewing suffered some hard times, especially when Congress passed the 18th Amendment in 1917. The company even went out of business for a time when national Prohibition was the law of the land. Schorr and company attempted to keep the brewery afloat by making a non-alcoholic drink called Nib. But sales plummeted, and the brewery closed in the late 1920s.

Schorr died in 1932, but when Prohibition was repealed in 1933, Schorr’s son Jacob brought the brewery back to life. Business boomed, and the brewery even survived World War II when hops were difficult to come by and other ingredients, such as rice, corn, and yeast, were rationed.

In the end, it was increased competition from big-time beer companies, such as Budweiser and Papst, that eventually killed the Tennessee Brewing Company in 1954.

The brewery’s main building was sold to A. Karchmer and Sons Scrap Metal in 1955, and they occupied the building until 1981. The Tennessee Brewery has remained shuttered ever since.

Sobering Reality

Norman and his family purchased the property in 1999 for $350,000 in an effort to save the neglected building. He poured money into new roofing and stabilized the structure, saving it from demolition.

Since then, plenty of potential buyers have contacted Rasberry, and there have been 14 feasibility studies on potential uses for the building — from condos to a museum to another brewery.

“The [brewery] building is interesting, sexy, and cool, and people are seduced by it initially,” Rasberry says. “That’s been a problem in the past, with regard to actually getting it sold. We have had it under contract numerous times, but it’s very difficult to make the numbers work.”

Rasberry says he’s shown the building at least 500 times to potential buyers.

“I’ve kissed a ton of frogs looking for that princess, and we’re still looking,” he says.

The Tennessee Brewery, circa 1895

But if that princess isn’t found soon, the 130-year-old building may disappear from the Memphis landscape.

Many Memphians have a story about breaking into the building at one point or another. And though most have simply been curiosity-seekers, vandals have done plenty of damage to the aging structure, which makes the cost of renovation even higher.

“People are constantly breaking in, and just replacing a window will cost you $250 to $500. Not to mention that they’ve taken chairs on the new roof and punched holes in the roofing we spent $500,000 on,” Rasberry says.

The building is listed for $1.75 million. But Rasberry says the amount of money a buyer would have to invest to renovate the building and get it up to code is astronomical. If a buyer wanted to renovate the entire building, it would need new elevators for handicap accessibility to all six floors.

The wrought-iron stair railings, often the subject of artsy photographs, would need to be restored or replaced. Rasberry says that might run $200 to $300 a foot. Massive windows on the south side would prove costly to replace.

“There are windows that probably cost $3,000 to $5,000 each. The numbers just go crazy when you calculate what just the glass portion of that building would cost. Those are things that make you go, ‘Wow, how do we make this work?'” Rasberry says.

The Attic

The answer to Rasberry’s question might lie in a “less is more” approach to renovating the building, say the sponsors of Untapped.

While the group organizing the event is sure most Memphians who stop by the event over the next month will be there for “good times,” they’re hoping a few potential buyers might stop in as well. But they’re not specifically targeting uber-wealthy developers with funds to renovate the entire building all at once.

Instead, they’re using Untapped to push what they’re calling “the attic” concept.

“Let’s stop thinking about how you boil the ocean and develop this whole thing at once,” says Hayes of Doug Carpenter & Associates. “Can we see if there are smaller pieces that we can bite off one at a time? Get some people and money flowing and then move on to new pieces. Whether the whole thing gets renovated is kind of irrelevant. This is a new way of thinking about buildings of this size and in this condition.”

They’re hoping a potential buyer will see value in renovating only part of the ground floor — perhaps the courtyard and a few rooms — to use as event space, food truck parking, or some other use that wouldn’t require the entire building rather than the costly renovation that would be required for, say, condos or apartments.

“Those 14 feasibility studies, even when condo prices downtown were going for $200 a foot, weren’t penciling out. If you build out this whole thing, what do you do about parking? That’s a huge cost because you have to build structure parking,” Pacello says. “But if you shrink this thing down and think of it as just a ground floor, you take the need for an elevator out. And that’s a huge cost.”

It’s an idea Rasberry has gotten behind.

“We’ve been discussing just doing the bottom two floors and land-banking the remaining portion, thinking of it more like a two-story house with a large attic. You could use the upper floors for storage space,” Rasberry says.

Since they’re investing their own funds into the Untapped event, Tauer says they’re hoping to turn a bit of a profit. And he hopes that can inspire someone with a vision for a permanent use.

“Preservation doesn’t work unless there’s business rationale. The charitable model of historical preservation isn’t sustainable,” Tauer says. “[We’re hoping] this type of project shows someone out there who can invest significant resources that you don’t have to think of this as a $10 million project. If you can throw a couple hundred thousand dollars into it, think of what you can do based on what we’ve done.”

If Untapped is successful, Cates believes it can be a model for saving other endangered historic properties in Memphis.

“As long as Memphis doesn’t run out of abandoned buildings, you can take this concept somewhere else,” Cates says. “There are so many different things you can do. It doesn’t always have to be a beer garden.”

Memphis Heritage executive director June West agrees. After the news of the brewery’s impending demolition broke a few months ago, Memphis Heritage called a meeting, and this “attic” idea was floated.

“Use what you can and make it work. And that doesn’t mean some marvelous thing won’t happen [with the rest of the building] later,” West says. “There may come a day when you can go past the second floor. I think that’s a really important step for looking at a lot of buildings in Memphis.”

This idea of previtalization isn’t new to Memphis, though it may be the first time its been tried in a single building. The Mayor’s Innovation Delivery Team’s MemFIX events — neighborhood festivals with pop-up shops in unused and abandoned spaces in Crosstown and South Memphis — have already helped to enliven those neighborhoods.

The long-empty row of Crosstown Shoppes on Cleveland served as pop-up shops during the first MemFIX event in November 2012, and today, all of those formerly empty spaces have been filled with art studios, galleries, a hula-hooping studio, and the Hi-Tone music club. With Untapped, the organizers are transferring that idea to a single building.

Whether or not Untapped is the saving grace for the Tennessee Brewery, its organizers are at least glad they’re trying.

Carpenter says, “Our perspective is, if they’re going to tear it down, let’s enjoy it while it’s still here.”