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Sun’s Out, (Burger) Buns Out

Oh, the weather outside is frightful-ly hot, but a fired-up grill is so delightful. That’s right, Memphis, it’s the most bunderful week of the year: Burger Week. That means you get some of the best burgers Memphis has to offer at a pretty awesome price of $6.99 from Wednesday, August 7th, to Tuesday, August 13th. Without further ado, here are this year’s Burger Week burgers.  

Sunrise | Sunrise Patty Melt (Photo: Sarah Morse)

Sunrise Memphis
Sunrise Patty Melt

The last time I had a hamburger for breakfast was probably when I ate a Krystal at 5 a.m. or something back in the day. That would have been on the way home, though, not after waking up in the morning.

Sunrise Memphis is offering the “Sunrise Patty Melt” for its Burger Week selection. Its creator, Sunrise Memphis executive chef Will Sater, calls it “a double smash patty with a cheddar cheese, jalapeño, cream cheese, and bacon jam we make in-house. And an over-easy egg.”

They had a version of the sandwich for last year’s Burger Week, but it was on a brioche bun instead of Texas toast like now. “We thought the toast was a little better for the texture.”

Sater continues, “Oh, it exploded. It was a very good product for us. And people seem to enjoy it, so it’s turned into a hit for us.”

It exploded like the egg can when cut with a knife. “It’s a messy burger, for sure. But just seeing that egg run out is kind of the pièce de résistance, as we like to say. You want to see that egg oozing out. It makes it feel more like breakfast, for sure.”

The Sunrise Patty Melt ended up on the menu. “People kept asking for it. So, we just decided to put it on the menu. And it turned into a big thing here.” — Michael Donahue

Jack Brown’s | Ron Swanson (Photo: Jon W. Sparks)

Jack Brown’s
Crab Rangoon Burger

As dives go, Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint is as funky as you’d want, but with generous helpings of surprises. One of the chain’s co-founders proclaimed, “We’re a dive bar, not a dump,” and it’s certainly not your average burger and beer joint. Those are some high-end burgers, all of which are made with Wagyu beef from Snake River Farms in Idaho and slapped down on Martin’s potato buns. What’s more, all ingredients are made in-house. Any burger on the menu is a delight, but consider what’s being offered during Memphis Flyer Burger Week: The Crab Rangoon Burger, with that delectable Wagyu beef, topped with house-made crab Rangoon (mixed with cream cheese), fried wontons, and sweet Thai chili sauce, served on that potato bun. Tragically, I was too early to sample that one, but I’ll be back now that Burger Week is underway. Meanwhile, I gladly dug into the Tuesday special, the Ron Swanson, with bacon, Muenster cheese, and barbecue bacon mayo. My companion got the Elvis burger that’s topped with some peanut butter. And the fries were scrumptious, begging to be dipped in an onion aioli sauce, which now replaces any ketchup tendencies we used to have. Phenomenal burgers and (despite the bras discreetly hanging from a light fixture) family-friendly! — Jon W. Sparks 

Tops Bar-B-Q | Policeman Burger (Photo: Patrick Collins)

Tops Bar-B-Q
Policeman Burger

Tops Bar-B-Q, whose iconic cheeseburger is special in its own right, is featuring the Policeman Burger as its Burger Week selection.

Describing the burger, Hunter Brown with Tops, says it’s a “Tops famous cheeseburger on a bed of mayonnaise, pickles, with applewood bacon, grilled onion, slow-smoked brisket, and Sweet ‘N’ Saucy barbecue sauce.”

Naming it the Policeman had to do with how Tops supports members of the Memphis Police Department. They protect communities where Tops team members as well as customers live and work, says Randy Hough with Tops. It’s important for Tops to bring attention to them for the job they’re doing there every day.

I could have yelled out how good this over-the-top sandwich is at the Tops Cordova location where I tried it for the first time. But nobody had to call the police. I kept my calm. — MD

Rock’n Dough | The Classic Burger (Photo: Toby Sells)

Rock’n Dough
The Classic Burger

How do you get beer into a hamburger? 

The question has vexed armies of scientists for generations. The team at Rock’n Dough Pizza & Brewery has finally answered it.

The solution lies in the pickles. The menu lists them as “house-made hop pickles.” That’s right. Rock’n Dough’s food geniuses flavored pickles with hops, the beer ingredient that lifts heavy on aroma, flavor, and bitterness. I’m a hop-head/IPA bro, so it’s one of my favorites. 

Those pickles can be found on The Classic Burger at Rock’n Dough. It’s a stripped-down street-racer of a burger that relies on old-school flavor punch — not some flashy topping-of-the-month — to deliver the goods. And it sure does. 

One bite transported me back to the lake or the ballpark, places I first learned to savor and appreciate food in the first place. Like a great beer, The Classic was balanced and you could taste the beef, the garlic-basil mayo, the seasoning, and all the ingredients, especially the pickles. The hop flavor was subtle, but I swore they’d figure out how to get a beer in my burger. And my hat went off to them. — Toby Sells

Farm Burger | Classic Farm Burger with kale slaw (Photo: Alex Greene)

Farm Burger
The Spicy Pimento

Living as close as I do to Farm Burger in the Crosstown Concourse, I eat there often, and though I didn’t order their special Burger Week offering when I stopped in last week (the Spicy Pimento, with their usual 100-percent grass-fed beef burger, pimento cheese, pasture-raised bacon, pickled jalapenos, and sherry-date barbecue sauce), the burger I did get was a lesson in how you just can’t go wrong with an establishment so focused on fresh, local food as the basis of its menu.

I’ve become a big fan of their kale slaw as an alternative to French fries, so I ordered a side of it with my regular, reliably delicious Farm Burger, the eatery’s flagship sandwich. But the burger that was served was even more delicious than expected: The kitchen had misunderstood, thinking I wanted only a kale slaw topping, and that’s what I got. Imagine my surprise!

One bite and I was hooked. The texture of the well-dressed kale leaves complements your basic Farm Burger to a T, adding a new texture and flavor profile to the aged white cheddar, caramelized onions, and Farm Burger sauce toppings that are usually included. Of course, I soon was craving my usual side of kale slaw as well, which the attentive servers promptly brought to my table. But I won’t soon forget the brilliant mistake of adding kale slaw directly to my burger. Indeed, next time I’m there I’ll suggest that addition on my Spicy Pimento Burger.
Alex Greene

Huey’s | World Famous Huey Burger (Photo: Kailynn Johnson)

Huey’s
World Famous Huey Burger

Huey’s has had a special place in my heart ever since it was the finale to an eighth grade field trip. However, I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that in my 12 years of being an avid Huey’s-goer I hadn’t tried a burger from there until this week. 

I know! I know! But let’s say that my first Huey’s burger is a Burger Week staple — and it’s worth the hype. I haven’t had an actual burger in years, opting for leaner meats instead, and I’d classify this as an actual burger. You know, the one you see in some TV show from the ’90s that the characters seem to neglect over frivolous dialogue — despite the mouthwatering entree before them. 

I tried the World Famous Huey’s burger fully loaded (minus the onions) with cheddar. I added a side of sweet potato fries which were the perfect addition. This will definitely be added to the cheat meal rotation. — Kailynn Johnson

Tug’s Casual Grill | BBQ Cheddar Burger (Photo: Shara Clark)

Tug’s Casual Grill
BBQ Pulled Pork Burger

For this year’s Burger Week, Tug’s is offering an upgrade to their BBQ Cheddar Burger — a menu item served with fries, typically priced at $16.95. So consider their BW deal a steal! The standard is a half-pound sirloin patty, topped with housemade barbecue sauce, cheddar cheese, crispy onion straws, lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickles (as pictured above). The special will come with a helping of housemade pulled pork in the mix. I tried the standard on my visit, since the pulled pork wasn’t available at the time. No complaints from me! This was a top-notch burger. The slightly sweet sourdough bun was the perfect vessel for its contents. The well-seasoned massive patty had that fresh-from-the-grill crust. The surprise bits of crunch from the fried onion straws were delightful. Now, envision all that with a scoop of pulled pork. Is your mouth watering? It should be. P.S. The seasoned fries are the bomb (think Back Yard Burgers but way better) and are included in the BW offering. Don’t sleep on this! — Shara Clark

Loflin Yard | Baja Burger (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Loflin Yard 
Baja Burger

I always have a relaxing time when I go to Loflin Yard. For this visit to the sprawling, mostly outdoor compound, the heat that has gripped the Bluff City had mostly dissipated for the evening. I grabbed a table in view of the TV that was showing the Olympic gymnastics team final, and ordered my Baja Burger. 

The Baja is a staple of the Loflin Yard menu. It comes with a thin patty on a brioche bun, topped with red cabbage slaw, spicy aioli, bacon, and pineapple. It’s the latter ingredient that is unusual for a burger. But, as it turns out, it is not a showstopper like pineapple on pizza. I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed the Baja. In this burger, the beef is not the primary attraction. Instead, it’s the combination of the pineapple and thick slabs of peppered bacon. It’s quite tasty and quite unusual. At least, I wouldn’t have thought of it! As with most things in life, it’s the balance that makes it good. Simone Biles would probably approve. — Chris McCoy

Bain Barbecue | Special Burger (Photo: Chris McCoy)

Bain Barbecue 
Special Burger

The former food truck moved into a brick and mortar location in Cooper-Young a little over two years ago, says manager Emily James. The idea to add a burger to their menu came after a Super Bowl party where the restaurant ran out of their trademark Texas-style barbecue brisket. “We tried to start doing burgers back in February. We started out with wings on our Anytime menu, and burgers just kind of came naturally.”

Bain’s Special Burger is a smashburger that features a Home Place Pastures patty with “shrettuce,” house-made pickles, and Jones Orchard heirloom tomatoes. It’s topped with a secret sauce. “I think it brings out the burger flavor a lot,” says James. 

The smashburger comes on a Martin’s potato buns. “Every sandwich has a Martin’s potato bun,” says James. “We just started putting those on the grill, too, and let ’em sit for a second. We let ’em get a little crusty.” 

For a side with your juicy burger, you can choose the five-cheese mac, a baked potato salad, brisket pinto beans, jalapeno lime slaw, or the traditional french fries. The best part about getting a burger at a barbecue joint is that you can dip your fries in one of Bain’s barbecue sauces. I tried all three flavors — hot, sweet, and mustard — and unexpectedly, the mustard sauce won! — CM

Betly Sports Bar & Grill | Smokey Baloney (Photo: Courtesy Southland Casino)

Betly Sports Bar & Grill
Smokey Baloney

So, uh, here’s the thing. I don’t eat meat, but I’m supposed to write about a burger? Who in their right mind wants the opinion of a pescatarian about a burger? I don’t even have one to give. I guess I’ll have to stick to objective facts when it comes to the Smokey Baloney at Betly Sports Bar & Grill in Southland Casino & Hotel. First off, what a fun name for a burger. I love the word baloney; I won’t eat it but I’ll call it any day. Ain’t that some baloney? The Smokey Baloney is made of all-beef patty, beef brisket, half-pound fried all-beef bologna, onion rings, and Memphis barbecue sauce. I’m sure that sounds delightful for any burger-loving fool. You can check out the picture above — as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.  

And if you’re looking for an excuse to hit the slot machines, a $6.99 burger sounds as good as any. So get a bang for your buck while you win (or lose) major bucks. — Abigail Morici

Belle Tavern | The Tavern Smash (Photo: Harold Cook)

Belle Tavern
The Tavern Smash

The best way to get to Belle Tavern is by going to the door on Barboro Alley. It’s just a couple hundred feet from Second Street and the Peabody Hotel, but you’ll feel mysterious, in the know, like a spy. It could be almost an underground secret, except for the fact that it’s one of downtown locals’ favorite spots. If you haven’t been to the Belle Tavern yet, this would be a great week to start. And a great way to introduce yourself to their tasty menu would be to order the Tavern Smash, a delicious concoction consisting of a four-ounce, ground-beef smash patty, onions, pickles, dijonnaise mustard, pickles, and a scrumptious house-made sesame bun. Mmmm. This is a cheeseburger classic, and it’s made to be smashed — into your tummy! — Bruce VanWyngarden

Wimpy’s | Rajun Cajun Burger (Photo: Jacob Crafton)

Wimpy’s
Rajun Cajun Burger

As most of us know, one of the most famous lines in Western letters goes this way: “I’d gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today.” The sentiment and the syntax belong to one J. Wellington Wimpy, a character in the comic strip Popeye, created by E.C. Segar. A louche fellow, something of a deadbeat, Wimpy, a chum of the title character, speaks for many of us who want to lay hands (or chomps) on something desirable before we have the means to get it gainfully.

If your goal is the same as Wimpy’s — a good, garden-variety burger — you can get it seven days a week at one of three Memphis-area locations of the Wimpy’s Burgers and Fries. For just over 10 bucks, you can get the basic version — the Wimpy burger — with fries. That’s the kind I got at the Wimpy’s at 7424 US Highway 64, just down the street from my digs. It’s satisfyingly plump, cooked to one’s specifications with all the usual fixings. For a tiny bit more, you can get a super-charged variety called the Rajun Cajun, but for Burger Week, it’s just $6.99. The Rajun Cajun has its own renown, and I sampled enough of the special sauce that goes on it to attest that it’s good and spicy. — Jackson Baker 

For more Burger Week information, visit memphisflyer.com/page/burgerweek. Follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and X (@memphisflyer) and get up-to-date info on everything #FlyerBurgerWeek.

Categories
Hungry Memphis Uncategorized

Meet “Jr. Burger” at Tops Bar-B-Q

You might have been wondering what the sign that read “Tops is Expecting a New Family Member 03/21” meant at Tops Bar-B-Q locations.

Customers came in and asked, “Which one of y’all are having a baby?” says Tops Operations LLC vice president Hunter Brown.

Of course, the obvious comeback was, “We don’t know what it’s going to be. It’s going to be a surprise,” Brown says.

But signs were different March 21st, Brown says, “Today the board changes and it says, ‘The Jr. Burger Has Arrived.”

Tops already sells a succulent hamburger. So, what is the Jr. Burger? “The Jr. Burger was something that was created as a result of a couple of needs for our guests,” says Tops CEO Randy Hough. “We felt that, number one, we wanted to provide an option for guests that were looking for a little less food, but still wanted to be able to satisfy their appetite.

“And, in addition, this really provided an avenue for those who were looking for great value without sacrificing what they love and expect from a great Tops cheeseburger. The Jr. Burger is still locally sourced, grilled fresh, same great flavor and taste, and ordered with all your favorite toppings. And we paired that with the Jr. Combo, which is a side of fries and a 16-ounce drink.”

The Jr. Burger is  $3.99 with cheese. The combo is $6.49 with cheese. The Jr. Burger is a two and a half ounce patty vs. the original four ounce patty. But the Jr. Burger patty is “a little bit larger than your typical junior-size burger,” Hough says.

“But it’s the exact same blend the guests have loved for 70 years plus,” Brown adds.

This is a first for the Tops hamburger as far as he knows, Hough says. “First time we’ve made a little smaller version of what everyone has come to know and love but still has a great flavor and still the same profile, which we’re really happy about. And you don’t have to change your favorite toppings.”

“Our barbecue line has two options: the pork shoulder regular or jumbo. Brisket the same way.”

Ditto for their Fire-Braised Chicken Sandwich. “It was never an option for a burger.”

Like their larger cheeseburgers, the Jr. Burger is dressed with mayonnaise, pickles, diced onion, lettuce, and tomato. “But if you just put a little ketchup and mustard on it, it’s perfect for the kids,” Hough says. “You can introduce the newest generation — the younger folks — of Mid-Southerners to the best burger in Memphis.”

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

“Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese” is New Tops Item

Tops Bar-B-Q continues to stay on top of its game.

On Monday, October 16th, Tops will launch a new item — “Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese” — company wide, says Hunter Brown with Tops LLC. “After we introduced mac and cheese, it was a no brainer we get Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese back on the menu,” Brown says. “It’s an item Tops had about seven or eight years ago.”

But this one will be made with the new mac and cheese Tops launched last June, Brown says. “We’ve taken our new mac and cheese  — a healthy portion of our macaroni and cheese — and we upgraded our Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese with an option of pork, chicken, or brisket. Enhanced with our Memphis sweet sauce. And then we add some of our famous dry rub and blend it all together.”

As Brown said in an earlier interview, their new mac and cheese is made with “fresh whole milk, tender macaroni, and real cheese (no powder stuff here).”

The new item isn’t a side item because of the size of the portions. “It’s certainly a meal,” says Brown, adding that “it’s a really good option for somebody eating on the go because it’s intended for folks to be able to eat it right out of the drive through.”

Tops Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Another plus: kids love it, he says.

Tops tested Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese at their newest location, which is in Cordova, Brown says. And it was a hit. “Absolutely phenomenal. The guests love it.”

The restaurant uses its Fire-Braised Chicken, which Tops launched in November, 2022,  on the new item. “Fire-Braised Chicken made it to a couple of things since its inception. You can substitute chicken on our famous barbecue nachos. It’s a big hit.”

I tried the Bar-B-Q Mac & Cheese with all three proteins. And they’re great. “Comfort food” was the first thing that came to mind. This definitely is a meal. And I would add Tops banana pudding, which was introduced not long ago, to my order.

Tops Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Brown says Tops only introduces new they believe in, never just for the sake of doing something new. “We want to really enhance the customer’s experience while highlighting some of the items that have made us successful over 70 years.”

Tops Bar-B-Q now has 17 locations. And, Brown says, “Number 18 is coming soon.” Stay tuned.

Categories
Cover Feature News

Burger Extravaganza

It’s the Great Burger, Charlie Brown!

That’s right, it’s everyone’s favorite time of the year again: Memphis Flyer Burger Week! For 2023’s celebration of the holy grail of classic American dining, we researched some of the best beef patties around and released our writers all over the city to sample some good ol’ Bluff City hamburgers. The usual suspects are out in force, while some newcomers showed off their tasty takes on ground chuck. All of the restaurants on the following pages are participating in Burger Week this year, so we went ahead and checked out what you can expect for some pretty cool $6.99 deals.

Old Bridge Burger – Loflin Yard

“Oh gee,” mused an indecisive diner during a night out on the town in Downtown Memphis. “What do I want to eat tonight? A hamburger? Some barbecue? Or maybe just a small snack of onion rings to tide me over?”

“Oh-ho!” chortled a voice just over his shoulder. “Trouble deciding what to eat tonight?”

“The Loflin Fairy!” the diner exclaimed. “What are you doing here?”

“Why, I’m here to solve your dinnertime woes with the Old Bridge Burger at Loflin Yard.” With a flourish, the Loflin Fairy snapped his fingers to conjure a plate out of thin air, topped with a hefty burger piled with all sorts of different accouterments. The diner leaned in, eyes wide, as his salivating gaze wandered over the myriad ingredients.

“It’s got a large Angus beef patty, coleslaw, pickles, barbecue sauce … wait, is that pulled pork on top of the burger? And some fried onion rings under the top bun?”

“Indeed it is,” laughed the Loflin Fairy.

“That’s so much food!” But when the diner looked up, the Loflin Fairy had vanished, leaving him alone with the large Old Bridge Burger, a side of fries, and a frozé for good measure. — Samuel X. Cicci
7 W. Carolina Ave.

The Celtic Burger (Photo: Jon W. Sparks)

The Celtic Burger – Celtic Crossing

Celtic Crossing’s old standbys — think shepherd’s pie and bangers and mash — are splendid, but if you’re hankering for a good ol’ hamburger, you’ll get a beefy serving of satisfaction at the classic Irish pub. The Celtic Burger starts with its blended patty that is nicely seasoned and sports a satisfying topper of American cheese. There is also a “secret sauce,” which implies a certain possible leprechaun involvement, but which my taste buds and some discreet inquiries revealed to have elements of ketchup and mayonnaise (probably not from County Mayo, though).

Verdict is: delicious. Rounding it out are pickles, tomatoes, and shaved lettuce. It all sits comfortably between two halves of a potato bun liberally festooned with sesame seeds. The dish comes with thick, savory fries, as one would expect from a Hibernian kitchen. The seeded bun itself is a delight, but, as will happen with robust burgers, might not stay intact through the end. This, however, is why the Irish invented forks, so you can enjoy it to the last morsel. — Jon W. Sparks
903 Cooper St.

World Famous Huey Burger (Photo: Shara Clark)

World Famous Huey Burger Huey’s

When’s the last time you had a World Famous Huey Burger? For me, it’s been a year. Yep, when I signed up to eat this classic for this year’s Burger Week preview, I’d forgotten I volunteered to eat and write about the same burger last year.

Oops. Not to fret; it was a welcome change from my typical steak on a stick or potato soup order (I still got some soup to-go because, duh). And who doesn’t love a time-tested cheeseburger?

A perennial Flyer Best of Memphis “Best Burger” winner, the Huey’s standard features a 6-oz. certified Angus beef patty with all the fixings — mayo, lettuce, tomato, mustard, pickles, onion, and cheddar or Swiss cheese on a toasted sesame seed bun. This is a somewhat hefty burger, so prepare to unhinge the jaw a tad to get a taste of all the goods in one go. The combination of juicy beef (medium-cooked for maximum results) and familiar condiments offers that summer backyard cookout flavor we all crave when a burger hankering hits.

Plan your Huey’s trip wisely. In a noon-hour lunch attempt, the line spilled into the lobby and out the front door at not one but three locations. Which on its own is a testament to the quality and longevity of this Memphis-favorite institution. — Shara Clark
Multiple locations

Southern Smokehouse Burger (Photo: Michael Donahue)

Southern Smokehouse Burger Tops Bar-B-Q

A regular Tops hamburger is now iconic. The Southern Smokehouse Burger is a cheeseburger with grilled onions, thick-cut bacon, and a sweet Southern glaze. That glaze drenching that bacon is over-the-top great. Or make that “over the Tops.”

They added the burger with its “smokey molasses-based glaze” as a limited-time offer for the summer, says Hunter Brown with Tops Operations LLC. He and Tops CEO Randy Hough were at the Tops location at 5144 Poplar Avenue the day I was there. Also at the restaurant were a bunch of guys from Christian Brothers High School. Hough and Brown let the guys sample the Southern Smokehouse Burger.

I asked the students what they thought. They liked the “nice texture,” “sweetness and flavor,” and the “sauce.” Another guy specifically said “glaze,” so he knows his cuisine. Brown says one of the guys told him it was “amazing.”

The Southern Smokehouse Burger is $5.99, which is below the Burger Week price point. “What we’re doing is giving the burger and a side of macaroni and cheese for $6.99,” Brown says. The mac and cheese is another new Tops item. — Michael Donahue
Multiple locations

Sunrise Burger (Photo: Kailynn Johnson)

Sunrise Burger Sunrise Memphis

Working for the Flyer has come with a lot of firsts, and this year’s Burger Week was no different. It was my first time trying an egg on a burger. Not too crazy, I know, but for someone who usually sticks to a regular cheeseburger, with the occasional addition of bacon, it can be intimidating. Alongside a sunny-side-up egg, the Sunrise Burger from Sunrise Memphis comes with a double smash patty, cheddar cheese, bacon jam, and jalapeño cream cheese spread, all served on a brioche bun.

When I told my dad about how nervous I was to try all these elements together, his reaction was, “I’m not going to lie, that sounds good,” and per usual, he was right. The ingredients seemed to work together in a way that “breakfast for dinner” does, and it was a nice mix of sweet and savory. The star of the burger would definitely have to be the bacon jam, as the sweetness doesn’t overpower the other elements, and works really nicely with the jalapeño cream cheese spread. While it’s not usually my first thought to visit a breakfast spot to satiate burger cravings, I think a new 20-minute commute is now in the rotation. — Kailynn Johnson
Multiple locations

Soul Burger (Photo: Earnestine & Hazel’s)

Soul Burger Earnestine & Hazel’s

Earnestine & Hazel’s iconic Soul Burger is a dose of Memphis magic served on a blanket of crinkly deli paper.

The ingredients are simple: a bun, patty, onions, cheese, pickle, and “Soul Sauce.” The bar says that’s “all that’s needed to make our delicious burger.” And it has been for years. But there’s something … else about the Soul Burger. Something transportive. But something also elusive. Just what, exactly, has made this humble burger such an essential stitch in the fabric of Memphis culture? Again, it’s hard to define.

But you feel it when the barkeep slides that little paper basket your way. The warm, little burger is just how you remembered. That first bite hits your taste buds and magically unlocks some core Memphis memory.

And never a bad memory. It’s beers and buddies, and the jukebox, and Mr. Nate upstairs, and the peeling paint, the “no dope smoken” sign, and how “ragged but right” (the bar’s ethos) fits it and the city so well, and somehow you feel at home in it all.

Have you been drinking? Probably! But that’s not what makes a Soul Burger taste so good. And neither, really, is it just pure nostalgia.

It’s the perfect blend of simple, savory ingredients done just right every single time. That’s what has brought generations of Memphians coming back for more soul. — Toby Sells
531 S. Main St.

DaLabSpecial (Photo: Chris McCoy)

DaLabSpecial Dexter’s Lab 901

It’s a hot August night on Shelby Drive. Dexter’s Lab 901 food truck is posted up in a corner of the Walmart Neighborhood Market parking lot. As soon as the blue LEDs light up, cars gather around in a semicircle, waiting for Allante Armstrong’s grease and griddle to get hot enough to cook his signature wings and burgers. “And guess what? I ain’t even posted that I’m open yet!” says Armstrong. “That’s a blessing.”

Armstrong named Dexter’s Lab 901 after his younger brother who passed away from lupus. On the side of the truck, millennial cartoon science hero Dexter shares space with a smiling Dexter Wooten, eternally young.

The burger Armstrong serves up, DaLabSpecial, is a classic griddle burger with the traditional fixings served on two thick, buttered slabs of Texas toast. “I do it just to be different because everybody else put it on regular cheeseburger buns,” says Armstrong.

The burger is thick, but not overwhelming, and super juicy. The buttered buns soak up the ample drippings without falling apart. (Structural integrity is an underrated trait in all sandwiches.) Served half-buried in spicy crinkle fries, it’s ideal street food.

Armstrong gets into a groove, taking orders and juggling burgers on the grill and wings in the fryer. “It’s just something that turned into a hustle. I don’t really know how to cook. If you put me in a real kitchen, I wouldn’t know what to do. But I’m learning,” he says.

The guy next to me in line seems amused when he hears that. “[Armstrong] catered my sister’s wedding,” he says. “You tell ’em he’s good. He’s real good.” — Chris McCoy
6990 E. Shelby Dr.

The Memphis Belle (Photo: Michael Donahue)

The Memphis Belle Belle Tavern

They call them “designer burgers” because of their high quality, but they usually cost more than $10. These are hamburgers made with prime beef trimmings. They’re usually available at high-end restaurants.

Well, for Burger Week, Belle Tavern at 117 Barboro Alley (on the flipside of Union’s 117 Prime) is offering its hamburger, the Memphis Belle. According to the description from the restaurant’s general manager Jake Smith, who designed the burger, the hamburger is a quarter-pound patty of ground beef “from the trimmings of our USDA prime steaks, smoked Gouda, caramelized onion, house-made dill pickles, Prime sauce, on a toasted onion kaiser bun.”

Diners can tell the difference when they take a bite, Smith says. “You get all those textures and flavors working together.” The trimmings come from their whole rib-eye New York strips at 117 Prime. “We take these trimmings and get this grind.” USDA prime, he says, “is all about flavor and tenderness.”

They’re considering permanently adding the Memphis Belle to their menu at Belle Tavern. “We’re looking at this as a test drive. Get some feedback from our guests and see what they think.” But it will cost more. And, man, oh, man, those fries that come with it. “Fries are the secret weapon.” — MD
117 Barboro Alley

The Crazy Coop (Photo: Alex Greene)

Build Your Own Burger The Crazy Coop

The Crazy Coop, which only opened its two locations this February, offers a back-to-basics take on the classic American burger. It’s a no-frills, artisanal approach that focuses on freshness, but one can build on that foundation to create the custom burger of your dreams. That’s because The Crazy Coop is much more than a burger joint. As the name suggests, they specialize in chicken, and especially wings (indeed, they only serve burgers at their Bartlett location). But while all their flavorful options, which include both classic wings seasonings and unique creations like BBQ Bacon Bourbon or Honey Habanero BBQ, originated in their dedication to hot wings, they encourage customers to apply them to burgers as well.

But I wanted to get down to the fundamentals: their basic, unadorned cheeseburger with lettuce, tomato, and onion. The flavor was exquisite. Owner/chef Darius Buckner explained that, having cooked since childhood, then working with a chef in Atlanta for decades, he was committed to seasoning and shaping the patties by hand himself. That attention to detail pays off in the nuanced flavors of their burgers. You could order up a bunch to go for a backyard cookout without ever firing up your grill. — Alex Greene
7199 Stage Rd. (Not available at Ridgeway location)

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Hungry Memphis

Tops Adds New Hamburger, New Location, Plus Mac & Cheese

Tops Bar-B-Q is celebrating summer with two new items and a new location.

Meet the Southern Smokehouse Burger, which consists of a “cheeseburger, grilled onions, thick cut bacon, and a sweet Southern glaze,” says Hunter Brown with Tops Operations LLC.

And, if your mouth isn’t already watering, that glaze is a “smoky molasses-based glaze.”

Many people quickly answer “Tops” when asked to name their favorite hamburger. The dish, which they’ve sold for decades, is so popular, the company is adding “& Burgers” to their sign along with “Bar-B-Q.”

“We’ve been the top hamburger in Memphis for 60 years,” Brown says.  “So, as popular as it was, we wanted to focus on a limited-time offer of celebrating the burger.”

The Southern Smokehouse Burger will be available “through the bulk of the summer,” Brown says.

As to maybe adding it to the menu one day, Brown says “time will tell.” They also offered their Barbecued Bologna and Fire-Braised Chicken as limited time offers. But, he says, “The feedback was so overwhelming and positive on both of those items, we had no choice but to make them permanent fixtures on our menu.”

A limited time offer is a chance for Tops customers to get “a great extra opportunity on a meal that’s available only a certain amount of time at a good value, as well.”

The Southern Smokehouse Burger is $5.99.

Tops Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)

Tops recently introduced the Southern Smokehouse Burger in a soft launch. It’s now available at all locations, including its upcoming new location. A new Tops will open in about 30 days near Cordova Road and North Germantown Parkway. It will be on an outparcel location in the parking lot of the University of Memphis Kemmons Wilson Culinary Institute and Incredible Pizza.

As for that other new Tops item, customers can now get macaroni and cheese as a side. “A brand new addition to our combos,” Brown says.

According to Tops, their mac and cheese is made with “fresh whole milk, tender macaroni, and real cheese (no powder stuff here).”

And, Brown adds, “Mac and cheese is definitely here to stay.”

Mac & Cheese at Tops Bar-B-Q (Credit: Michael Donahue)
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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Tops Bar-B-Q To Open a Cordova Location

Tops Bar-B-Q is on a roll. Or maybe a “bun” would be more accurate. The Memphis-based company is opening its 18th location in June. 

“We’re building in Cordova,” says Hunter Brown with Tops Operations LLC.

The new restaurant will be at Germantown Parkway and Cordova Road. The company is building on one acre of the parking lot of Memphis’s Incredible Pizza Company at 1245 North Germantown Parkway, Suite 104.

Tops opened its 17th location — 4199 Hacks Cross Road — on February 14th.

They’ve wanted a location in Cordova as much as they want locations in Collierville, Arlington, and other places, Brown says. “This just came first.”

They want to open new restaurants in areas where customers who were used to having a Tops Bar-B-Q in their neighborhood are moving, Brown says. For example, if a customer grew up with the Tops in Frayser and now lives in Cordova, they “deserve to have their own.”

The original growth spurt was in the late ’60s and early ’70s when Tops opened restaurants in quick succession on Thomas Street, Summer Avenue at National Street, Lamar Avenue, Union Avenue, and Frayser Boulevard.

Tops continued to open restaurants over the next 30 years, but began its current growth spurt in 2021 with its restaurant at 6745 Stage Road in Bartlett and then Hacks Cross Road. “The trajectory is adding up to two locations a year until we feel like we have fulfilled the needs of Memphis and the surrounding areas.”

They’re not stopping to take a breath after Cordova. “When we open Cordova, we plan on breaking ground somewhere else.”

Tops Bar-B-Q opened in 1952 in Memphis. “Rhodes at Getwell is the oldest store open. The first store doesn’t exist anymore. It was about two miles north of where our Sycamore View and Macon store is now.”

As for the upcoming Cordova location, Brown says, “There will be definite features to the new Tops, which will face Cordova Road, including a “a dual drive-through to enhance speed of service.”And, he says, “We’ll open the restaurant with breakfast to meet the needs of the surrounding area and those commuting to work.”

Breakfast is currently available at nine Tops restaurants. “It’s still evolving. But the plan is to open new restaurants with breakfast.”

Brown says the restaurant is a long-time favorite. “Memphis as a community is faithful. You see it when the Grizzlies are winning. When the Tigers are hot. They support Memphis things.

“The reality is Memphis supports Memphis. And they know that although we are growing and big, we’re still a hometown locally owned company that’s been in their family and generations for many years. And every day when I’m inside a Tops whether it’s Frayser Boulevard or Summer National, someone is coming up to me with a story about how they and their family and friends came in wherever after school and ate. 

“There’s so much nostalgia. And merely from just being around so long, it builds camaraderie. That doesn’t exist for national brands.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Tops Opens 17th Location

Tops Bar-B-Q will open a new location in early February. It will be the 17th location for the more than 70-year-old Memphis-based restaurant.

And, as a native Memphian who grew up with Tops, I’m excited more locations are opening.

The restaurants have a new sign, which I love. It’s perfect. The new sign is based on the old pig drawing that graces the side of the Tops at 3353 Summer Avenue.

The new location will be at 4199 Hacks Cross Road, where the old Steak ’n Shake used to be, says Hunter Brown with Tops Operations LLC.

The restaurant location is “officially still in Memphis,” he says. “We’re so excited to be on that side. It’s the furthest east we are. It’s going to service Germantown, Collierville, East Memphis, FedEx headquarters. We’ve been looking hard to get over in that part of town to make it more convenient for our guests.”

As for that new sign, Brown says this is only the second time the sign has evolved since 1952. “Some of our stores needed a refresh.”

In addition to the interior, they also wanted to refresh the outside.

The original signage was a pig standing on a toy top. That sign can still be found at the Summer-National Tops. But the pig they used for the new sign is the large one on the side of that location. And that’s a Summer Avenue landmark, as far as I’m concerned. “That restaurant has been there for over 60 years, and that pig is in the oldest pictures I’ve ever seen.”

And, he adds, that pig sign is also “in the original architectural drawing” for that Tops location.

“We used the original pig. We just updated it with backlit red LED lighting. It spells out ‘Tops.’ The LED sign underneath says ‘Bar-B-Q & Burgers.’”

The Tops hamburger needs to be given its props since I, along with a lot of other people, consider it to be the best hamburger in Memphis. “We never called out burgers before,” Brown says. “When there’s room for it, it’s ‘Slow Smoked Bar-B-Q and Award-Winning Burgers.’ But when it’s shortened up for space purposes, we call it our ‘Bar-B-Q & Burgers’ every chance we get.’”

I asked Brown if they were going to introduce any new menu items this year. I’m constantly getting a craving for the restaurant’s new Fire Braised Chicken Sandwich. That’s my go-to — along with the Tops turkey burger — at least once a week or so.

“This year we plan on launching two limited time offers that are scheduled. But we’re still working through the priority of those two as to what is missing and what guests are asking for the most.”

Some Tops items currently are only available on its catering menu. These include a sausage and cheese plate.

By the way, that pulled chicken on their new sandwich is now being used in more ways at Tops, Brown says. “Chicken evolved. Now you can get it on the nachos. You can get chicken nachos in place of pork. You can get it as a plate. That’s now an option. That’s brisket, pork, ribs, or chicken plate.”

All these Tops changes — outside, inside, and in the kitchen — aren’t taken lightly, Brown says. “These changes, albeit big or small, there’s a lot of thought that goes into it. And at the end of the day, the answer has to be very clear: Is it good for the guests? With every single thing we think about, if that’s not a resounding ‘Yes,’ then we don’t do it. No matter what we think. We’re not going to change for the sake of change.

“There’s a reason this company has thrived for 70 years. And we’re not going to take a chance.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Restaurant Recs 2022

Restaurant Iris’ new location is probably the most anticipated restaurant opening of the last year. The restaurant at 4550 Poplar Avenue, where the old The Grove Grill was located, is stunning. The main dining room includes serpentine booths and Italian glass-balloon-looking fixtures that add to the energy. Executive chef Russell Casey describes the fare as “classic New Orleans” with some Iris staples. Additional murals, private dining spaces, and even more serpentine booths make the new Iris an exciting place to dine.

Tonica, another elegant/tasty addition, is at 1545 Overton Park. It’s two doors down from Ecco, which, along with Libro, is one of the bar/restaurants from Sabine Bachmann and her sons, chefs Armando and Mario Gagliano and general manager John-Paul Gagliano. The food, Armando says, has “a Spanish influence with a little bit of Italian-Mediterranean twist.” The decor is “as close to a Mediterranean Spanish style” as they can get, John-Paul says.

South Point Kitchen at Downtown’s South Point Grocery at 136 Webster Avenue serves sandwiches, most of them created by chef/musician/comedian Josh McLane. They include HEELS, named after his band that consists of himself and Brennan Whalen. It’s made of spicy peanut butter, jalapeño strawberry jam, bacon, and provolone cheese.

Jimmy “Sushi Jimmi” Sinh introduced his Poke Paradise food truck, which will officially hit the road in 2023. He now is booking the food truck for events. Recently, he has been busy doing pop-ups, special orders, private dinners, and other catering events. Poke is diced fresh fish, usually served with soy sauce and onion.

Tops Bar-B-Q is known for its great hamburgers. But during the year, Tops introduced new food items. Smoked BBQ Bologna, which launched in April, was the first new Tops item in 10 years. “We score it and season it with our rib rub and then we smoke it,” says Tops Operations LLC vice president Hunter Brown. “After smoking it, we grill each one to order.” They then put it on a bun and add their “famous slaw and our signature Tops barbecue sauce.”

Then in November, Tops introduced its Fire-Braised Chicken Sandwich with Memphis white sauce. It’s chicken seared over fire and then topped with the sauce, says Tops CEO Randy Hough. — Michael Donahue

New Wing Order, one of Memphis’ most popular food trucks over the past couple years, found a roost on Beale Street earlier this year. The truck continues to operate, but owners Cole Forrest and Jesse McDonald set up their first brick-and-mortar shop inside Ghost River Brewing Co. Now, brewery-goers can sip on their favorites ales while munching on Memphis Buffalo, Ja’s Sweet Heat, or any of the other delectable sauces. “Having this space really allowed us to increase our capacity,” says Forrest. Adds McDonald, “We get to experiment with a lot of new menu items now, too.”

The former Pontotoc Lounge space is open once again, but with a whole new concept that draws upon OG Memphis’ roots as an Egyptian city. Called IBIS, the new bar and lounge by Jeremy and Matthew Thacker-Rhodes promises plenty of craft cocktails and fine dining in a chic space on Main Street. Think lobster rolls, lamb meatballs, and plenty of other colorful mixed drinks that will wet your whistle (I recommend the tequila- and grapefruit-based “Por Que”). Look forward to gospel and mimosa Sundays, drag shows, live music, and plenty of other live programming in the upstairs lounge.

Carlisle Restaurant Group launched the first unique dining concept planned for the One Beale project. Fancy’s Fish House opened back in April in The Landing Residences, offering a wide variety of fresh and raw seafood to Downtown diners. But the menu recently underwent a complete makeover thanks to new chef Nate Henssler, who has quickly put his stamp on things. A raw bar serves everything from East and West Coast oysters to ahi tuna tartare, and there’s a gargantuan seafood tower that combines all the raw bar options for a full seafood bounty. Meanwhile, Henssler focuses on simple flavors and techniques to elevate his à la carte fish dishes (the miso-marinated cod is a must-try). There are some other surprises, like a delicious steak frites entree or the rosemary roasted half chicken. Some interesting cocktails, like a chai old fashioned or frozen pineapple margarita, round out a compelling riverside experience. — Samuel X. Cicci

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Chicken at Tops Bar-B-Q? Yes!

I ate chicken for the first time at Tops Bar-B-Q. That’s because I now can eat chicken at Tops Bar-B-Q. It’s long been a missing ingredient at the Memphis-based chain of restaurants.

The experience was delightful. I tried the new Fire-Braised Chicken Sandwich with Memphis white sauce, which recently was introduced at a few Tops locations. I ate mine at the Poplar spot.

It’s delicious. I knew it would be, so I ordered two sandwiches right off the bat. It’s a pulled — like Tops barbecue — sandwich, so it has that same consistency. And the sauce is creamy and good, with a little bite to it. Though there was enough sauce on the sandwich, I ordered extra sauce because I’m a slatherer. I even ate it right out of the container.

So, I guess you’d call me a fan of the new Tops food addition.

Tops’ Fire-Braised Chicken Sandwich with Memphis white sauce (Credit: Michael Donahue)
(Credit: Michael Donahue)

The chicken sandwich, which is slated to come to all Tops locations in December, is currently available at the Southaven and Frayser Boulevard locations (as well as the Poplar location I visited).

Fire-Braised Chicken is chicken seared over fire, says Tops CEO Randy Hough. It’s topped with a Memphis white sauce, which was based on Alabama white sauce. Tops created its own version of Alabama’s creamy, tangy white sauce in house, but Tops “put a little twist” on it, Hough says.

“This sauce is very similar in terms of remaining really creamy and tangy, but there’s just a little bit of something different on the back end,” he says. “I don’t want to call it ‘hot’ or ‘heat,’ but there’s a little snap to it on the back end.”

And, he says, “It fits well in the city of Memphis. We do things a little unique.”

As far as Hough knows, this is the first time Tops has ever offered a chicken option. “Now it’s time. We said, ‘Let’s do a limited time special.’ We fell in love with this chicken product. A pulled chicken and sauce. It’s a great way to marry this together and give our guests an option for chicken.”

So, of course, I had to ask Hough, “What about selling Tops barbecued chicken some day?”

“Certainly we’ve considered that,” Hough says. “We’re not there today because we want to think this can stand alone on its own right now.”

Chicken will go great with Tops barbecue sauce, Hough adds. But they don’t want to “steal anything away” from their new chicken sandwich.

 The Fire-Braised Chicken Sandwich with Memphis white sauce is currently available at the following Tops Bar-B-Q locations: 2288 Frayser Boulevard, 5144 Poplar Avenue, and 313 Stateline Road West in Southaven.

(Credit: Michael Donahue)
Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Tops Bar-B-Q Now Serving Breakfast at Union Avenue Location. What???!!!!

You might have had breakfast at Tops Bar-B-Q. That is, if you were eating a barbecue sandwich or a hamburger after you got out of bed in the morning. Or afternoon. Or night.

But you’ve never been able to order a breakfast breakfast — as in brisket, egg, and cheese — at Tops. Until now.

“Today is the day,” says Tops Bar-B-Q vice president Hunter Brown.

Beginning Sept. 27th, Tops Bar-B-Q is offering a breakfast menu between 6:30 to 10:30 a.m. at its 1286 Union location, Brown says.

“For the last eight weeks, we’ve been in Marion, Arkansas, and Southaven, Mississippi, testing breakfast,” he says.

And, he adds, “When you do something this big, you don’t want to confuse the masses in your customer base.”

Thirteen of their 16 locations are in the Memphis, Bartlett, and Millington area. They will still offer breakfast in Marion and Southaven.

“We’ve got a very unique menu selection — something we think that sets us apart from the rest of the companies doing breakfast, particularly the quick-service restaurants.

“Our menu is based primarily around breakfast sandwiches. We use a buttered toasted bun that fits the protein — meat, egg, and cheese — perfectly. It just melts together. It’s so fantastic.”

And, he says, “We brought in a bigger, better bacon for this.”

They currently use bacon on their cheeseburger, but, Tops wanted a bacon that matches their ground beef, which is delivered daily from Charlie’s Meat Market. “We wanted to match that quality in bacon. And I’m very confident we have.”

Of course, Tops isn’t going to offer any run-of-the mill breakfast sandwiches. “We’ve got some unique items.”

These include the “Smoked Breakfast Bologna,” which is bologna, egg, and cheese; “Brisket and Cream Cheese,” which is a fried egg, melted cheese and Tops’ new Sweet and Saucy barbecue sauce; and “Breakfast BLT,” a fried egg added to the traditional BLT (bacon, lettuce, and tomato).

“And then, of course, Tops can’t roll out any menu without highlighting our world famous cheeseburger,” Hunter says.

Their “Rise and Shine Burger” adds “a fried egg and melted cheese to our already famous cheeseburger.”

What about barbecue, you ask? Tops is offering the “Original Que & Egg Sandwich” — a fried egg, pulled chopped pork, queso, and hot barbecue sauce sandwich. “All melted together on a buttery toasted bun.”

They also offer traditional sandwiches, including “Bacon, Egg & Cheese Sandwich,” “Sausage Egg and Cheese,” and, if you don’t want any meat at all, the “Egg & Cheese Sandwich.”

Heck, Tops also is offering a “Pearl Sugar Waffle” on its breakfast menu. “It’s infused with maple syrup and pearl sugar. It’s the only waffle I’ve ever had that didn’t need anything on the side like syrup or butter.”

And, he adds, “It’s drive-through friendly.” You don’t have to worry about trying to dip it into syrup while you’re trying to drive.

As for extending the breakfast to other Tops locations, Brown says, “Right now it’s still under discussion.”

The Union location was perfect, he says. “Being in the hospital district, being able to feed third shifters coming off and first shifters coming on, it’s something we thought would be great.”

Breakfast ends at 10:30 a.m., but Tops will continue to offer its full menu all day. “We have a lot of third shifters getting off at 6:30, 7 in the morning. It’s their end of day. We’re selling ribs, brisket sandwiches, full menu at 6:30 in the morning. The full menu extends through the rest of the day.”