Categories
News The Fly-By

MEMernet: Mayor Young, a Big, Fun Typo, Tsunami

Memphis on the internet.

Mayor Young

Paul Young took the city’s top job last week in an uplifting inauguration ceremony.

“The past doesn’t matter,” Young said after he was sworn in. “The future is all we’re thinking about right now. Partisanship doesn’t matter. The future of our young babies is all we’re thinking about right now.”

Big (But Fun) Typo

Posted to Facebook by Mighty Lights

Mighty Lights was busy this holiday season with tributes to Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, Christmas, police officers, and more. Its year-end message was to read “HAPPY NEW YEAR 2024.” Deadrick DeShoun Moring Sr. posted a video showing it read 2023 instead of 2024. We’re like same same.

Tsunami

Posted to Facebook by Ben Smith

Tsunami owner Ben Smith toasted Kevin Sullivan’s last shift at the Cooper-Young restaurant this week. Sullivan started as a dishwasher at Tsunami in 2002 and worked his way up to head chef. He’s leaving the restaurant to start his own restaurant, Ki Kitchen, in the Edge District.

Categories
We Recommend We Recommend

Tsunami Executive Chef de Cuisine Kevin Sullivan Celebrates 19 Years in the Industry

The next time someone tells you to “own it,” talk to Kevin Sullivan — excuse me — Executive Chef de Cuisine Kevin Sullivan. After nearly 20 years in the restaurant industry, he got his just desserts as part owner of Tsunami restaurant.

Sullivan is a homegrown Memphian. An honor graduate of Northside High and the University of Memphis, he began his career at a popular midtown restaurant, Tsunami, as a dishwasher in 2002. Curiosity put him in every part of the kitchen where he has spent the last 19 years honing his craft. His culinary degree was earned the old-fashioned way, by apprenticeship. He is a graduate of what Sullivan calls the “Tsunami Institute of America” under the tutelage of Chef Ben Smith.

To celebrate, Sullivan is throwing a birthday party for his 19th year on the culinary scene. A five-course dinner and wine pairing planned for Sunday, June 13th, has sold out, necessitating a second birthday dinner on Monday, June 14th. Better hurry up and secure your seat.

“This is a great event for Kevin,” says Chef Ben Smith. “This is not ‘Tsunami presents’; this is all about visibility for Chef Sullivan — being sure people get to witness how he puts talent and inspiration into action.”

Sullivan’s dishes are his own, a blend of his family’s traditional vegetable-forward recipes, featuring Southern influence sauteed with worldwide flavors. Try his creative menu at the birthday dinners. If you miss both birthday events, you can still wish Chef Sullivan a happy birthday and try his fare at the Chef’s Market on Tsunami’s patio. Prepared dishes are sold alongside Chef Smith’s soups and spreads most Saturdays.

Chef de Cuisine Kevin Sullivan’s Birthday Dinner, Tsunami, 928 Cooper, Sunday, June 13-Monday, June 14, 6 p.m., $145.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

It’s Not Time: Tsunami Not Ready for Flood of Dine-in Customers

Tsunami has a freshly painted floor, but it will be a while before the iconic Cooper-Young restaurant rings with the sound of footsteps from hungry customers.

Owner Ben Smith isn’t ready to open. He still is doing curbside takeout and delivery, but that’s it for now. He’s not ready to open the dining room.
Michael Donahue

Ben Smith at the 2019 Memphis Food & Wine Festival at Memphis Botanic Garden

“We’re being really cautious about opening,” Smith says. “We’ve noticed a significant downturn in business since all the restaurants opened, however, so that’s some concern to us. We’re getting a lot of calls: ‘When are you guys going to open?’ We see the sort of opinion shifting with people ready to get out. People are feeling more optimistic and comfortable about coming out in public spaces. But my No. 1 priority is making sure my staff is comfortable and safe. Their comfort level is more important.”

But, he says, “I’m feeling more pressure from people to open now. And that’s a new development. Until recently people have been very supportive: ‘We’ll be there when you reopen. Do the right thing. Be safe.’”

Now people are saying, “When are you going to open?”

Smith has come up with a tentative opening date, but it’s not set in stone. “We’re cautiously optimistic we will open sometime in June. It’s subject to change. To me, it just makes no sense to open under the protocol they’ve put forth. We have to set up our dining room now with six-foot spacing. It’s not too bad, but as far as the tables being six feet apart, that’s good in theory. But with traffic, as people move through the place, they have to go between those tables and that breaks the six feet of space. In actuality, they should have 12 feet of space if you’ re going to keep six feet of distancing between actual bodies. That seems unreasonable.”

Smith has heard differing scenarios from people who already have opened their restaurants. “Both ends of the spectrum. People who want to present everything’s fine and nothing happened, to the other extreme of people wearing masks and berating people who aren’t. Again, this whole situation, this whole crisis has put the restaurant industry into a position of having to police not only ourselves and our staff, but our clientele. That’s a really uncomfortable position to be in.”

He’s heard other unpleasant stories from restaurateurs. “People berating servers for not being able to sit at the bar. … There’s no clear-cut policy or message or guidance from anywhere that gives us any sort of power to enforce that protocol. And, again, the onus of that responsibility falls on the shoulders of the operator. My God, with everything else that’s going on, some of us are feeling a little overwhelmed about this new responsibility of having to police our clientele. It’s a new level of responsibility and stress for us.”

Smith and his workers discuss this situation with “shifts and changes” at their daily staff meeting. They’ve tweaked ideas as they’ve gone along. “I’d rather err on the side of safety and caution than open back up again. And it’s brutal. It’s really difficult. We’ve shifted into this new business model, and my staff has done a tremendous job of adjusting and getting used to that and making it happen. And to have to go back to our ‘normal’ service, there’s going to be a lot of new learning curves there for all of us. And I just don’t feel like our game plan is strong enough now to reopen.”

Some people don’t want to go to newly opened restaurants because of the restrictions, Smith says. “That’s a whole other concern for us. How many people now have the mindset of, ‘I don’t want to go out and eat if I have to wear a mask, if I have to follow strict protocol and guidelines? I can eat at home. And I can get takeout and eat it at home.’”

Their business will be impacted if “a significant factor” of their demographic thinks that way or if they don’t want to eat out as frequently.

But, Smith says, “I think we’re going to eventually get back into a mindset that it’s okay to go out and eat again.”

And he’s getting ready for that day. “We did some painting. We took out all the furniture and painted the floors.”

Tsunami’s floor got a fresh coat of paint during the shutdown.

His wife Colleen did the floors, which were “much overdue for a paint job,” Smith says. They now are painted “kind of a black. They were kind of a mismatch of colors before. That was a holdover from the last restaurant here. I always loved the floors. It had that nice, authentic, distressed look about them.”

And, he says, “We’ve done a lot of cleaning and reorganizing and shuffling stuff around and purging. We thought it was a good opportunity. We had the floors steam cleaned.”

But for now, Smith says, “I don’t think I’m ready to put my wait staff in that position of having to tell people, ‘No, we can’t shake hands. We can’t hug. I know I haven’t seen you in a long time.’

“I think history will look back at this time and this will be the point at which we realize hand-shaking was not a good idea. Just like gentlemen don’t tip their hats anymore when they’re around women. It’s so arcane and weird.”

People will say, “I can’t believe there was a time when people shook hands when they met.”

“I think the tradition of shaking a hand will morph into some other type of greeting. We’ll go back to tipping hats. Tipping masks. I don’t know.”

Tsunami is at 928 Cooper Street; (901) 274-2556.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Farmers Market News and more

Memphis Farmers Market will launch a Wednesday afternoon market, 4-7 p.m., at Court Square downtown, starting Wednesday, June 28th.

It will be called MFM² and will run through September 27th.

• The famers market at the Memphis Botanic Garden is taking a “planning year,” which means no market this year. They’re looking for a better site for the market and hope to revamp their vendor list.

* Now done with its renovations, Tsunami will begin hosting Pau Hana Time, a happy hour Monday through Friday, 5-7 p.m. “Pau hana” is Hawaiian and means to “done working.” It’s a nod to chef/owner Ben Smith’s time in Hawaii and, in keeping with the theme, Smith will offer new dishes with a Hawaiian inspiration.

• The Hard Rock Cafe is bringing back its World Burger Tour for National Burger Month.

Among the burgers on the menu:

Tango Salsa Burger (Buenos Aires, Argentina) – shake it up with andouille sausage, Certified Angus Beef®, salsa criolla, garlic aioli, Monterey jack cheese, fresh arugula and a fried egg to top off the burger

Olé Burger (Barcelona, Spain) – a fury of red peppered Romesco sauce, roasted vegetables, with goat cheese crumbles and arugula, dancing on a Certified Angus Beef® and between a toasted bun

And and and …

Tennessee BBQ Burger (Tennessee, United States) – like a good country ballad, this Certified Angus Beef® burger brings happy tears with BBQ dry rubbed premium beef topped with pickle slices, Memphis slaw, pulled pork, pig sauce, crispy onions and cheddar

The burgers will be offered through June 25th.

Ruth’s Chris is hosting a five-course wine dinner with the historic Chateau Montelena Winery.

The dinner will feature the rare 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and the 210 Napa Valley Petite Sirah.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

LYFE Downtown To Go Full Service, etc.

LYFE Kitchen announced last month that the Chisca location, roughly a year after it opened, “will be undergoing a transformation … that will bring new flavors and a new ambience to the LYFE Kitchen dining experience in downtown Memphis.”

So what does that mean exactly?

In short, that LYFE Chisca will switch from at-counter ordering to full service, that there will be menu changes, and that the inside is being renovated. This will be first LYFE Kitchen in the country that will be full service.

LYFE in transition

“We don’t look at LYFE as a restaurant chain,” says Patrick Noone, who works in branding and marketing at LYFE. According to Noone, each restaurant is treated as its own entity, and as such, the folks at LYFE took note of what was available around the Chisca (certainly Catherine & Mary) and decided “to elevate the menu and the experience.”

Noone says they aren’t ready to go into too many specifics, except that the renovations will be significant, but the restaurant will ultimately uphold the LYFE idea of healthy, good cooking. “It isn’t going to be unrecognizable,” he says.

They are shooting for a late-winter, early-spring re-opening.

• Derese Tabor is Cisco’s kid. Her father drove a truck and Cisco was his handle.

Both Tabor’s parents did catering. Tabor worked for the phone company for 16 years. She wanted to do something different and tested the waters by launching a food truck called Cisco’s Kid. Tabor opened a brick-and-mortar spot, also called Cisco’s Kid, last fall at 7395 Highway 64 (near Appling).

Cisco’s Kid serves pork shoulder sandwiches, BBQ nachos, turkey legs, and burgers, but their main thing is chicken — wings, fried chicken, half a yard bird. The thing that sets them apart is that they smoke the chicken before they fry it.

It’s a “unique niche,” Tabor says. But if you don’t like smoke flavor, they put the chicken straight in the fryer for you.

* Porcellino’s announced last week on Instagram that has stopped serving dinner in favor of private parties and events.

Its first event is the wine dinner “Pinot Noir & Its Terroir” on January 25th.

• Congrats are in order to Ben Smith, who recently bought the building that houses his restaurant Tsunami.

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Tsunami’s Bacon Wrapped Dates

Dates… good. Bacon… good. Wrap bacon around dates? Yummy! That’s exactly what Tsunami has done with their bacon wrapped dates with sweet chile sauce ($6).

You get five bacon-wrapped dates with the dish on a small bed of cabbage. The dates taste sweet and the bacon is crispy, not crunchy. You can actually pop an entire bacon wrapped date into your mouth and just savor away, enjoying the sweetness of the dates mixed with the chewy texture of the bacon. It’s not in the least bit greasy! The sweet chile sauce describes itself. It’s light and kicks the sweetness level of the dish right up to where you want it to be.

Sometimes simple is best, and that’s the case here.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Donuts for Dessert!

Ginger Donuts with Coconut Sorbet

“When my family eats at the restaurant, they always get the ginger donuts,” says Tsunami’s owner and chef Ben Smith.

The ginger donuts with coconut sorbet ($8) at Tsunami have been a solid seller for five or six years. Smith says they tie nicely into the restaurant’s Pacific Rim theme, while also honoring the South’s love of deep-fried foods.

Stacey Greenberg

Tsunami’s ginger donuts

The ginger donuts are about the size of golf balls and have a crusty exterior and a cakey, gooey interior and are dusted with powdered sugar. They aren’t too sweet. Their deliciousness lies somewhere between coffee cake and funnel cake.

Smith says they aren’t your standard donut as they are a bit denser and are laced with fresh ginger. “The fresh ginger makes a big difference and gives a big punch of flavor,” he says. There are three per order, and it is a hearty dessert.

He didn’t always pair them with a big scoop of his coconut sorbet, but once he did he found it was the perfect match and provided balance. The final touch on the dish is a light coating of ginger syrup, also made with fresh ginger. “It’s a double whammy of fresh ginger,” says Smith.

Zappolies

Down the street, Josh Steiner is making a name for himself at Strano by sharing his family’s Sicilian and Moroccan influenced recipes. His carrot cake has been creating a lot of buzz, but the Zappolies ($7.50) on the brunch menu are a must try. (They are available by special request at dinner.) There are six per order.

The Zeppola is a traditional Italian pastry. Billed as his “Family’s Recipe for Donuts Rolled in Cinnamon Sugar with a side of Berry Sweet Sauce,” the Zappolies are reminiscent of a traditional beignet. Let’s call them cousins. The Zappolies are a tad smaller, a little more free form in shape, and feature cinnamon sugar rather than powdered sugar. The texture is almost exactly the same.

Stacey Greenberg

Strano’s Zappolies

What make Strano’s Zappolies really special are the accompanying dipping sauces. The “Berry sweet sauce” includes a little Campari and is devilishly sweet. As a bonus, a heavenly hazelnut dipping sauce also accompanied my order. Imagine a thinner, warmer Nutella. It was hard to say which sauce was better for dipping, but it was fun trying to figure it out.

Korean Doughnuts

Crazy Noodle chef Ji Won Choi says her Korean donut holes ($5.99) are traditional, but the dessert presentation is not. She makes them with wheat flour mixed with green tea powder, so they are not at all sweet, but they have a very appealing flavor.

Slightly larger than marbles, the donuts are cakey and quite dense — perfect for repeatedly popping into one’s mouth. The menu shows them to be a bit larger, but my order had nine of the small donut holes surrounding a heaping mound of vanilla ice cream, crisscrossed with generous amounts of chocolate sauce, and topped with a heavy dusting of sugar and cinnamon. The presentation is quite festive — so much so that it seemed like it was my birthday. Or someone’s!

The dessert is definitely a crowd pleaser. My children practically licked the plate clean.

(The menu description says “this dessert contains nuts,” but no actual nuts were observed — only donuts!)

Categories
Food & Drink Food Reviews

Some of the Best Nachos in Memphis

The first ever plate of nachos was created in 1943 at a restaurant called the Victory Club in the city of Piedras Negras, Coahuila, Mexico, by the restaurant’s maître d’. The maître d’s nickname was “Nacho,” and he called his dish “Nacho’s especiales.”

Now, we all know what happens next in this story, right? Some genius in Memphis went and put barbecue on top of the nachos. But it doesn’t end there. There are some exceptional plates of nachos served in this city.

Here are three:

Badass Nachos at Sweet Grass Next Door come in two sizes—1) huge ($14) and 2) who-even-knew-they-made-plates-that-big ($24). Walk in on a Saturday afternoon and you are likely to see an order on most tables.

What makes them so special? The heaping mound of beef brisket that boldly tops the chips, that’s what. This heaping mound also manages to make this gluttonous dish somewhat refined, as do the perfectly cooked onions and peppers. Even without the brisket, the Badass Nachos would be decadent because of the generous amounts of red chili sauce and queso. (I have vegetarian friends that swear by this.) The chili sauce is mild, as is the queso, but the jalapeños are cut thick, and they don’t play. Fresh tomatoes, cilantro, and a generous dollop of sour cream complete the badassery.

You need at least two or three people to polish off the regular (huge) order, and you definitely cannot achieve total destruction without the aid of a fork. The thin and crispy tortilla chips cannot hold up to the toppings for long, but the half-crispy half-gooey results are delicious. A tendril of beef, a juicy sliver of pepper, or, at the very least, a drop of sauce is going to land on the table or your pants or probably both, but you won’t care.

These bad boys can’t be contained by a “to go” box, so don’t even think about it. Have a seat, roll up your sleeves, and enjoy.

Sweet Grass Next Door 937 S. Cooper (278-0278)

sweetgrassmemphis.com

Stacey Greenberg

The Asian Nachos at Tsunami

The Asian Nachos ($10) on Tsunami’s Izakaya (snack plates) menu are definitely in a more delicate category than their across the street neighbors, but they boldly go where no one has gone before. Six thin, lightly fried wonton chips line the plate. Placed in the center of each is a perfect bite of tuna tataki. House-made cilantro crema and Sriracha are drizzled on top along with a sprinkling of the finest green onions you’ve ever seen. The thinly sliced jalapeño is serious, and the Sriracha seals the deal. These delicate beauties pack a serious punch.

Don’t worry, it hurts so good.

Incorporating a two-bite method on each chip is the way to go. Yes, use your hands. The first bite is for the tuna, and the second is for the last little bit of crema left on the chip. Go ahead and scoop up some more off the plate for extra cooling. Take a minute to appreciate the dish as a whole before digging in, and definitely save the creamiest chip for last.

Tsunami

928 S. Cooper

(274-2556)

tsunamimemphis.com

Stacey Greenberg

Arepa & Salsa’s Naked Arepas

If the wontons piqued your interest about what can constitute nachos, then the next logical step is to try the Naked Arepas ($7) at Arepa & Salsa. These are Venezuela’s version of the nacho. An arepa is a flatbread made of ground corn (maize) dough or cooked flour. It’s not clear why the dish is described as naked, because it is anything but.

The arepas are sliced into triangles and topped with your choice of shredded beef or chicken (or both!), chopped lettuce, thinly sliced avocado, crumbled cotija cheese, and a generous drizzle of “house sauces.” The house sauces taste like mild versions of ranch and Thousand Island dressings.

Overall the dish is very mild, but the arepas really make it pop. They are at once doughy yet crispy; fried but not greasy. They have a distinctive flavor and seem right at home under a mess of toppings. The shredded chicken is nicely seasoned and has a delicious tang. The arepas easily hold their weight and maintain their crunch. It’s hard to decide whether to use a fork or not.

The Naked Arepas are listed as an appetizer but can certainly be a meal for one. After one bite, you probably won’t want to share.

Arepa & Salsa

662 Madison

(949-8537)

arepaandsalsa.com

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Neola Farms Beef Carpaccio at Tsunami

Picture_65.png

  • Justin Fox Burks

If you are a locavore, chances are that you are familiar with nearby Neola Farms’ fabulous beef. In fact, when you think of Neola Farms, I bet a hamburger starts to dance through your mind. If you think their beef tastes good between a bun, you’ve got to try it sliced super-thin and uncooked. Neola Farms beef carpaccio at Tsunami is absolutely amazing, a little slice of heaven. The beef is so flavorful and fresh that to cook it almost seems obscene. Chef Ben Smith gives it just a drizzle of sesame-soy aïoli for an extra bit of zing. The dish’s overall concept is like a deconstructed hamburger. It comes with a side of shaved red onions marinated in fresh squeezed lemon juice, a little salad of baby greens, and crispy fried wonton chips. Exciting and satisfying but not filling, it’s the perfect appetizer.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Plates & Updates

What does Chef Ben put on all of his tomatoes before they leave our
kitchen?” This was Grace restaurant’s Facebook update on October 28th.
The person who answered correctly was promised a $50 gift
certificate.

Over 200 guesses (ranging from sea salt to mini cucumbers), one
hour, and one hint later, someone finally got the right answer:
gastrique. Since then, chef/owner Ben Vaughn has been doing food and
wine trivia giveaways about once a week.

Christiana Leibovich, who participated in the tomato quiz, was
endeared by it. “It made me feel like they were fun, and I liked
connecting with the owner/chef,” she says.

Vaughn also updates with pictures of dishes, specials, and general
restaurant info. “It really creates fan ownership for Grace,” he says.
“When customers come in for lunch or dinner, they kinda already know me
and feel like it’s their place.”

The user-friendly formats of Facebook and Twitter have made them
especially popular with restaurants. David Lindsey, director of
marketing for Sekisui, Inc., says, “With Facebook and Twitter, we don’t
have to give away anything to gain fans. The effects of viral marketing
that are built into social networking sites do the work for us.”

Deni Reilly says that when she first created the Majestic Grille fan
page, she sent it out to just her group of friends. Those friends sent
it to their friends and so on. “In a few days we had hundreds of
members that I didn’t know,” Reilly says. “The people who sign up as
fans of your page are genuinely interested, so you’ve already got a
built-in target audience.”

Reilly says she was hesitant about using Twitter at first. She says,
“I figured, other than my mother, who really cares that much?” After
some research and requests from her guests, she added Twitter to the
marketing plan but in a very specific way. “Every morning, we tweet our
lunch or brunch specials and, in the late afternoon, our dinner
specials, and people love it.” Reilly says.

What Lindsey appreciates most about Facebook and Twitter is that
most any restaurant manager can learn to use the services in about five
minutes. “It doesn’t cost anything, and I don’t have to provide tech
support,” he says.

Colleen Couch-Smith and Ben Smith of Tsunami like having the ability
to get feedback on things that are in the works. “It gives us a good
audience to sound off ideas to as well as a place for our customers to
have a voice,” Colleen says.

The folks at the Cove credit its Facebook page for helping people
become aware of their specials and promotions, but, like the Smiths,
they’ve really benefited from the feedback they receive on Facebook.
Mike Grabman, “the really tall bartender” who updates the bar’s page,
says, “It gives the customer a unique opportunity to communicate their
wants and desires for what the Cove should be. It is as much their
place to hang out and feel comfortable as it is our place.”

Christopher McRae, owner/operator of Main Street Hound Dogs and the
“best-looking purveyor of hot dogs, fresh squeezed limeades, soups and
hot drinks on the corner of Union and Main,” uses Twitter to better get
to know his customers. He got the idea from a New York Times
article his sister-in-law sent him. “I have found Twitter to be an
almost playful way for me to interact with my customers. I can look
them up and learn more about them,” McRae says.

It will be interesting to see where the social media revolution
takes the customer/restaurant relationship in the future. Ben Smith
jokingly contemplates adding a “reality TV” element onto Tsunami’s
Facebook page.

“I think that people get a vicarious pleasure,” he says, “from
watching other people go through the hell of running a restaurant.”