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Eat Your Veggies: 11 Great Vegetarian Dishes from Memphis Restaurants

As any vegetarian or vegan will tell you, meat is not an essential ingredient in a hearty, satisfying meal. Around town, a multitude of options abound. From ramen and pizza to nachos and hot dogs, you can cure just about any craving with a veggie-packed dish. Here are a few of our staff favorites, procured from local restaurants.

Julia Baker

Vegetarian Crazy Noodle

Crazy Noodle, Miso Ramen or Vegetarian Crazy Noodle

Getting a pick-up order at The Crazy Noodle on Madison is a reminder of two matters: (1) There are things to do with noodles (er, udon) other than make spaghetti. And (2) Korean cuisine favors spicy dishes.

The popular Miso Ramen is a case in point. A soupy mix of spinach, tofu, onions, carrots, zucchini, cabbage, and the aforementioned udon stirred into a tangy bean paste broth, this dish awakens the palate and is hearty enough to be a complete meal.

Another good bet is the Vegetarian Crazy Noodle, with similar ingredients, including shiitake mushrooms and Korean radish and just the right amount of red pepper — not so much as to make you take breaks between bites but not so little as to escape your notice. The dishes range from $9.99 to $10.99, and service on the pick-up orders is quick and thoughtful. — Jackson Baker

2015 Madison, 272-0928

Roger Sapp

Portabella Mushroom Sandwich

Central BBQ, Portabella Mushroom Sandwich

You’re sitting at Central BBQ surrounded by meat, but you don’t want meat. Try the portabella mushroom “barbecue” sandwich. It’s a hefty sandwich with portabella instead of pork. A portabella already tastes a lot like meat, but the folks at Central add barbecue sauce, slaw, and other fixings and — voila! — you’ve got a faux barbecue sandwich.

The sandwich was born when they were “looking for a vegetarian item” to serve, says Roger Sapp, one of the owners. Fellow owner Craig Blondis suggested a grilled portabella mushroom. “We marinate it in olive oil and balsamic vinegar,” Sapp says. “Then we throw it on the grill and serve it like you would a barbecue.” They top it with smoked Gouda cheese and serve it on a bun. If you’re vegan, ask them to leave off the cheese.

Craig’s wife, Elizabeth Blondis, likes the portabella mushroom sandwich with Central BBQ’s mustard sauce. “It makes it not so sweet,” she says. “Just a little bit more savory.” — Michael Donahue

Multiple locations including 2249 Central, 272-9377

Shara Clark

RP Tracks, BBQ Tofu Nachos

RP Tracks, BBQ Tofu Nachos

Pre-COVID, my sister, who admittedly isn’t the most adventurous eater, tried tofu for the first time at RP Tracks — the BBQ Tofu Nachos, to be exact — and loved it. Crispy on the outside with a soft center and tossed in a sweet barbecue sauce, the tofu nuggets are layered underneath loads of lettuce, tomatoes, jalapeño peppers, cheddar cheese, and black bean chili (be sure to request the bean chili rather than meat for the full-on vegetarian version). All that veggie goodness is piled high on a bed of tortilla chips and topped with a dollop of sour cream. It’s a generous, shareable helping for the price ($10) and a great starting point for the tofu-curious. Really, who doesn’t love a good nacho?

There are plenty of other veggie-friendly dishes on the menu, but don’t sleep on the tofu version of Pedro’s Wings. Strips of fried tofu are covered in your choice of wing sauce, and believe me when I tell you, it’s surprisingly close to the real thing. They’ve even got vegan ranch to dip ’em in. — Shara Clark

3547 Walker, 327-1471

Matthew J. Harris

Golden India, Palak Paneer

Golden India, Palak Paneer

When I was a freshman in college, I made a short, unsuccessful stint of going vegetarian. Though I quickly gave in at the first hint of pulled pork at a football tailgate, the experience did cement my love for Indian cuisine and for one dish in particular: palak paneer.

The dish, also incorrectly referred to as green paneer depending on where you are in the U.S., is a spinach curry composed mainly of a mix of Indian cottage cheese, or paneer, and puréed spinach. The dish is then served over rice with a side of naan, creating a fairly light but filling meal.

In town, Golden India makes some of the best palak paneer. With mild, medium, and hot — and dear lord is it hot — their palak paneer can please just about any palate. My go-to meal is palak paneer, garlic naan, and a mango lassi. — Matthew J. Harris

2097 Madison, 728-5111

Samuel X. Cici

The Doghouzz, Beyond Memphis Dog

The Doghouzz, Beyond Memphis Dog

If it looks like a dog, feels like a dog, and tastes like a dog, then it’s probably a regular ol’ hot dog, right? Wrong.

The Doghouzz’s full menu can take any selection and swap out an all-beef frank for a Beyond Meat dog. It’s all the hot-diggity-dog goodness of a regular dog bundled up in a nice, vegan package. If you want to keep it quintessentially Bluff City, there’s no going wrong with the classic Memphis Dog. Packing in some staples of 901 dining, the Memphis Dog is slathered with barbecue sauce and smothered under a bed of coleslaw, for good measure. And to provide that last bit of extra kick, don’t get it without the serving of sliced jalapeños.

Perhaps the highest compliment, from this longtime carnivore, at least, is that I couldn’t tell I wasn’t munching on a “real” hot dog. The Doghouzz’s vegan twist on a long-standing fixture of American dinners, festivities, and events makes the “dog” more accessible than ever. — Samuel X. Cicci

1349 Autumn, 207-7770

Sweet Grass / Twitter

Sweet Grass, General Tso’s Cauliflower

Sweet Grass, General Tso’s Cauliflower

Food swaps aren’t fun. Zoodles for noodles? Okay, but c’mon. Tofurkey? I get it, but geez.

The General Tso’s Cauliflower ($12) at Sweet Grass ain’t that. I don’t order it because I can’t have or don’t want fried chicken. (I always want fried chicken, btw.) I order the cauliflower because it’s got-damned delicious.

The Sweet Grass General Tso’s is generously coated in tempura and fried, giving the dish a meaty heft that’s substantial under the knife. Then it’s bathed in that classic, orange-brown sauce. Sweet Grass didn’t go haute cuisine on this. The sauce is that sweet, sticky, tangy, slightly hot stuff you know and love.

Together, the tempura and the sauce tenderly hug it all in a flavor parka. Then the whole thing is snuggled down on a bed of coconut rice and tucked in with a sprinkle of sesame seeds. Oh, and there’s cauliflower inside all of that. — Toby Sells

937 Cooper, 278-0278

Julie Ray

Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant, Yetsome Beyaynetu

Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant, Yetsome Beyaynetu

Open the doors to Abyssinia and you are transported to a friendly village in Africa. In this village, the porous injera bread made from teff, a mineral-rich, gluten-free whole grain high in protein, is abundantly stacked in poly bags for takeout.

Owner-operator Meseret “Missy” Abdi serves a visually tantalizing palette of color synonymous with George Hunt Memphis in May artwork — only with food. A menu item called Yetsome Beyaynetu overflows with split spicy red lentils, split yellow peas, collard greens, mixed vegetables, potato salad, and beet salad. It is beautiful and tasty with flavorful spices. Abdi says the menu item is vegan, too.

Dining in Ethiopia is characterized by the ritual of breaking injera and eating from the same plate. Bring friends and partake in this custom signifying the bonds of loyalty and friendship over melded flavors of exotic spices, sweet and savory vegetables, and curiously sour yet nutty injera bread. — Julie Ray

2600 Poplar, #115, 321-0082

Jesse Davis

Crisy Ginger Tofu

Soi Number 9, Crispy Ginger Tofu

Inside the unassuming takeout box is a lunch ready to launch my taste buds on a meatless, ginger-tinged journey to FlavorTown. I open the folded cardboard lid and steam escapes. I got my lunch delivered (GrubHub for the win) from Soi Number 9.

On more than one occasion, I’ve snagged a mid-festival lunch from the familiar orange food truck, so a dish from Soi Number 9 is a little like having a mini-festival in my kitchen. In this year of no gatherings, well-prepared comfort food gives reason enough to celebrate.

Though the Thai street food vendors started with a food truck, they also operate a brick-and-mortar business inside the UT Health Science Center Food Hall. This is the first time I’ve tried the Crispy Ginger Tofu ($9.75), and it does not disappoint. The dish is made with seasoned tofu strips and stir-fried vegetables served with ginger soy, steamed jasmine rice, and cucumbers. The ginger gives the rice, in perfectly sticky clumps, a faint sweetness. The thinly sliced strips of tofu are light and crunchy. The fat slices of carrot may be the star of the show, though. Their crunch complements the crispy-on-the-outside, soft-inside tofu and the sticky rice.

For up-to-date information on the whereabouts of the food truck, check Soi Number 9’s social media pages. — Jesse Davis

920 Madison, 448-3443

Tamboli’s

Veggie Verdura Pizza

Tamboli’s Pasta & Pizza, Veggie Verdura Pizza

Tamboli’s has become one of our regular go-to takeout options in recent months. Locally owned (chef and owner Miles Tamboli is an alumni of the Flyer‘s 20>30 Class of 2018), the restaurant is located in the former Fuel space on Madison.

We’re particularly fond of Tamboli’s hand-made pizzas. There are actually three vegetarian options: a savory cheese; the Cacio e Pepe (herbed ricotta topped with fresh mozzarella, pecorino Romano, cracked black pepper, and white truffle oil); and our favorite, the Veggie Verdura. Here’s how the menu describes it: “Topped with our savory red sauce, olive oil, garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, red onions, Bluff City Fungi’s shiitake mushrooms, Kalamata olives, ricotta, and a drizzle of roasted red pepper aioli on 14″ artisan dough.” The menu neglects to mention that it’s “tasty as a mug,” even if you’re not a vegetarian. It’s $14.25, and worth it. — Bruce VanWyngarden

1761 Madison, 410-8866

Alex Greene

Global Café

Global Café, various dishes

With three counters sporting the cuisines of Syria, Sudan, and Venezuela, it makes sense that the Global Café’s vegetarian game is strong. If you’ve had tabbouleh elsewhere, you may expect a lot of bulgur wheat. But, as a Lebanese anthropologist once told me, tabbouleh is really all about the parsley, and that’s very much the case in the Syrian version here. A more authentic example of the dish would be hard to find. The hummus and falafel plate is also quite fresh, with a strong tahini flavor. Both are vegan.

The menu notes that the spinach pie is not vegan, as it’s brushed with egg, but old-school vegetarians can still enjoy that or the cheese pie alternative. Be aware, though, that these do not resemble the classic Greek spanakopita, which uses phyllo dough, but are more like stuffed bread rolls.

Finally, I sampled some Venezuelan potato and cheese empanadas, or small, fried dough pockets (which can also be ordered with black bean filling). These are remarkably airy, and the garlic sauce served on the side complements them well. — Alex Greene

1350 Concourse, Suite 157, 512-6890

Laura Jean Hocking

Pho Binh, Lemongrass Tofu

Pho Binh, Lemongrass Tofu

People from outside Memphis never believe you when you tell them we have really excellent Vietnamese food here. It goes beyond the preconception of Memphis as a barbecue and hot wing town. But there has been a thriving Vietnamese community in the Bluff City since at least the 1970s, and our cuisine has benefited enormously.

Before the pandemic, Pho Binh, the modest, family-run Vietnamese restaurant on Madison Avenue, functioned as Midtown’s lunchroom. You’d see suited bankers rubbing shoulders with vegan crust punks and Black moms at the crowded buffet. Their vegetarian offerings are always top-notch. Whether sautéed in a rich black bean sauce or stir-fried with green beans, nobody does tofu better than Pho Binh.

The queen of the Pho Binh menu is the lemongrass tofu. Everyone is equal when they’re sitting at a table, picking at the remains of their buffet plate, waiting for the kindly cook to bring out a fresh pile of the dusky tofu cubes. Then, as she returns to the kitchen with an empty chafing dish, the vultures descend. Forget Antifa agitators, if there’s a riot in Midtown, it will start over lemongrass tofu.

What makes it so great? The texture is perfection: firm, but not rubbery; a little juicy, but not soggy. The uniform tofu blocks are heavily tossed with Pho Binh’s secret lemongrass concoction and fried. Serve over sticky white rice, and that’s it. No sauce or additional ingredients required. Perfection itself. It’s even better as takeout, because you don’t have to fight for it. — Chris McCoy

1615 Madison, 276-0006

Categories
Film Features Film/TV

Film Review: PlantPure Nation

If you’ve seen one vegan propaganda film, you’ve seen them all.

Or at least that’s what I thought during the first 15 minutes or so of PlantPure Nation, a documentary on the benefits of a plant-based diet, as the film detailed the history of Dr. T. Colin Campbell, one of the leading voices advocating for the health benefits of veganism.

Those introductory minutes of PlantPure Nation were basically a rehashing of the lauded 2011 vegan documentary Forks Over Knives. While I know that Campbell’s influence and background are Vegan 101, I had to step back and understand that PlantPure Nation isn’t a film for vegans like me.

It’s a film for omnivores living on a standard American diet of french fries, cheeseburgers, and 4-a.m. beef burritos from Taco Bell. And those folks probably don’t know the history of Campbell, a biochemist who grew up on a dairy farm, went plant-based in mid-life, and later went on to lead one of the most influential studies on the relationship between nutrition and cancer.

Conducted in China, the 20-year study has been hailed by The New York Times as “the Grand Prix of epidemiology,” and Campbell’s book The China Study is a best seller. In a nutshell, Campbell and his team found that a plant-based diet can reverse certain cancers, diabetes, heart disease, and other ailments.

Dr. T. Colin Campbell and his son Nelson.

Once PlantPure Nation takes you through all that important history stuff, we meet Campbell’s son Nelson, who is determined to persuade the Kentucky state legislature to adopt a program to help low-income people access vegan meals. But that ain’t gonna fly in the land of meat and taters, and the proposal is quickly shot down by Big Ag lobbyists.

So Nelson goes D.I.Y. and heads to Mebane, North Carolina, which he calls “land of barbecue” (clearly, he hasn’t visited Memphis), to test his plant-based nutrition program on its residents.

Sixteen people sign up for the first PlantPure Jumpstart program, a 10-day vegan challenge in which Nelson and his wife prepare heat-and-eat lunches and dinners made without meats, eggs, dairy, or oil. (Oil is vegan, but Nelson is pushing an oil-free diet to help people reverse serious health problems).

The group — a diverse mix that includes a politician, a journalist, and a cattle farmer — starts and ends the program with biometric testing. One woman’s cholesterol count drops from 176 to 139 in only 10 days, and by the end, everyone tests healthier.

“I actually feel good. I sleep well. I’m not bloated feeling,” says the cattle rancher after 10 days on the vegan diet. It’s an impressive testimonial from a man who raises cows for slaughter.

One middle-aged participant, Tommy Privette, had been living with Type 2 diabetes since he was 23, and he also suffered from hypertension. After four months of veganism, he’d lost 40 pounds and managed to drop five of his seven daily medications.

PlantPure Nation touches briefly on the environmental impact of the meat and dairy industries’ relationship to global warming and deforestation, but I was a little disappointed that it didn’t address factory farming’s animal cruelty issues.

Still, the film is a powerful testament to the dramatic impact a vegan diet can have on one’s health. And, though I’m an ethical vegan rather than one who focuses on the health impact of plant-based diets, I have to take a step back and understand that some people are drawn into this crazy vegan lifestyle to better their health. Regardless of how they get here, animals’ lives will still be spared either way.

PlantPure Nation screens one night only on Wednesday, September 30th at 7:30 p.m. at the Malco Paradiso (584 S. Mendenhall). Tickets will be sold at the box office, but seating is limited so an RSVP is required. Call 901-590-2754 to reserve a seat. There’s a pre-party with vegetarian food samples from 6:30 to 7 p.m. at Whole Foods.

Categories
News

PETA Names AutoZone Park In Top 10 List for Vegetarians

Each year, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) ranks major league ball parks according to how much vegetarian fare is offered at the concession stands.

This year, they also surveyed over 130 minor league parks. AutoZone Park came in at number five for most veg-friendly stadium thanks to an abundance of meat-free options.

Redbirds fans can choose between veggie dogs, grilled vegetable panini, roasted corn on the cob, fresh salads, and of course Cracker Jacks and peanuts. And oh and don’t forget those big ass beers — those are vegetarian too.

“When it comes to meeting fans’ demand for healthy, delicious, meat-free food, the Redbirds always have a winning record,” says PETA Assistant Director Dan Shannon. “AutoZone Park’s great vegetarian selection benefits both animals and the health of fans, who will be less likely to keel over from a meat-induced heart attack as they cheer the next Redbirds home run.”

For a list of all veg-friendly parks, go to the PETA website.

Categories
Letter From The Editor Opinion

Letter from the Editor: Visitors From Another Planet

We had a couple of visitors to Memphis recently from an alternative newspaper in another city. Our cities are similar in size, and we share many of the same editorial and business concerns. They joined us in our conference room, and we discussed Web strategies, staffing, publishing software, the competition, and other common issues.

Then we decided to go to lunch.

“How about the Bar-B-Q Shop?” my publisher asked. “Best sandwich you’ll ever eat.”

“Um, we’re vegetarians.”

No problem, we said. Memphis is a sophisticated city with lots of places that have great vegetarian food. So we decided to go to a lovely little downtown bistro where there were many fine veggie options on the menu.

As we walked to the parking lot, I said, “We can all just pile into my car,” pointing to my 11-year-old 4-Runner.

“Wow, an SUV. Pshew,” one of our visitors said, sounding a bit like someone suggesting I might want to quit farting in public elevators.

“Yeah, it’s paid for,” I said, sounding a bit like somebody becoming less inclined to Southern hospitality.

Lunch followed in much the same vein. “How about a glass of wine?” I said. Nope, herbal tea was their preference. Dessert? Nope, no carbs.

Driving back to the office, my publisher decided we should get coffee for our afternoon meeting. “There’s a Starbucks just up ahead,” he said.

“Um, we don’t do Starbucks,” our visitors informed us. “Aren’t there any locally owned coffee shops around here?”

“Yes, there are,” I said. “And I go to one of them almost every day, but here’s the thing: It’s many blocks away, and we’ll burn lots more gas in my SUV if we go there.”

Silence from the back seat, as our visitors pondered the proper ethical move. Or whether I was being an ass.

“Two venti lattes,” I said, as we pulled up to the Starbucks speaker. The afternoon meeting was a short one.

Don’t get me wrong. I support locally owned businesses if their product is better. And I’m all for going green. When my car finally dies, I’ll get one that’s more fuel-efficient.

But I’m not giving up the Bar-B-Q Shop.

Bruce VanWyngarden

brucev@memphisflyer.com