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The New Normal: Examining the Pandemic’s Lasting Effects on Dining, Remote Work, and the Arts

The COVID-19 pandemic is not over. The Johns Hopkins University of Medicine’s Coronavirus Resource Center, which has been tracking the spread of the disease for more than a year, reports that 165 million people have tested positive for SARS-CoV-2 worldwide; 3.4 million people have died from the disease. The United States has both the most cases, with just over 33 million, and the most deaths, with 588,548. In Shelby County, roughly one in 10 people have been infected, and 1,644 people have died.

The development of COVID vaccines and a massive government push to get “shots in arms” has blunted the spread of the disease. In real-world conditions, mRNA vaccines such as Pfizer and Moderna have been found to reduce an individual’s chance of infection by more than 90 percent. A two-shot dose virtually eliminates the possibility of hospitalization and death.

Vaccine development has been a science success story, but we’re not out of the woods yet. It’s unlikely COVID will ever go away entirely. The virus will go from pandemic to endemic, with flu-like regional outbreaks recurring every year. It will take time to vaccinate the world. Early fears about new virus variants able to evade vaccine-generated antibodies have not materialized, but most experts believe it’s just a matter of time before a new mutation makes a vaccine booster shot necessary.

As restrictions ease with the falling case numbers, the country seems to be crawling back to normal. Interviews with Memphians from different fields impacted by the pandemic reveal how this new normal will be different from the old.

Tamra Patterson (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

Dining In/Out

Tamra Patterson, owner of Chef Tam’s Underground Cafe in the Edge District, was just getting her business off the ground when the pandemic hit. “In February of 2020, we saw such great success, having just relocated from Cooper-Young,” she says. “We were right in the middle of Black Restaurant Week, and we were expecting for that to catapult us to new heights. As you could imagine, we were kind of sucker-punched in March.”

Instead of managing new growth, Patterson found herself facing no good options. “We had to make the really hard call of do we close, or do we do what we ended up doing, which is strictly going to-go?”

The constantly changing health directives made closing the dining room the logical choice. “I didn’t want the yo-yo: You can open but you can only have six people. You can open but you can only have 20 people. I felt like the inconsistency for a customer would be much more detrimental than what was happening.”

Eric Vernon of The Bar-B-Q Shop agrees that dine-out business was the only play available but says a good restaurant is about more than just the food. “At The Bar-B-Q Shop, you come in, you sit down, you stay overtime, and the staff gets to know you. So a lot of what we did was cut right off the bat. We don’t just sell food, you know. It’s an atmosphere thing. I think we went into a little bit of panic mode. I couldn’t worry about atmosphere; I just had to get the food out. So within a three-week, maybe four-week process, we did what normally takes a year to develop. We had to come up with an online system for people to pick up, and we had to do a delivery system, and we had to figure out how to get all these systems to ring up in our kitchen.”

Huey’s (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

Steve Voss faced the same challenge across the nine Huey’s locations. “We hit the streets as quickly as possible to figure out, how are we going to get food out to our guests efficiently and timely while maintaining the quality? So we went straight into curbside.”

Customers liked picking up food to eat at home, but the learning curve was steep, says Vernon. “We went from people placing orders for ribs and a couple of sandwiches to-go to doing full family orders. People don’t get that it takes longer for us to bag up an order for a family than it does to get it to the table. We had never done to-go orders for seven or eight people, every other time the phone rang. We had people calling to say they’re outside. Well, we’ve got a front door and a back door, so we’re running out to the front, they’re not there, so then we’re running out back!”

Restaurateurs got a crash course in the delivery business. “We’ve had people approach us in the past, wanting us to venture into that area,” Voss says. “We’ve developed some systems with DoorDash and ChowNow, and now it is a tremendous part of our business, but it’s really hard to execute well. It’s like having a whole other department in the building.”

Crosstown Brewing Company (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

Take-out wasn’t just for restaurants. “We had to shut down the taproom, which was a major source of revenue for our business,” says Crosstown Brewing Company owner Will Goodwin. “But people kept coming, and we made beers available in six-packs. I remember having a stack of beer sitting in the middle of the taproom, and we had a skeleton crew taking pre-orders and running beer out the door to people in cars.”

Goodwin says pandemic-era liquor law changes saved his business. “Beer is kind of hung up in this antiquated, three-tier system where there’s a manufacturer, there’s a distributor, and there’s a retailer.”

The pandemic proved direct sales from brewery to customer is “a new business model that could be sustained. We’re still doing deliveries on Mondays and Tuesdays from the brewery. I’ve got one guy that orders a mixed case of beer every Monday. He’s done it for a year and a half.”

Vernon says his dining room is filling back up, and the take-out business is bustling. After having to cut his staff in half, re-hiring is proving difficult. “Drive down Madison, and there’s a help wanted sign in every restaurant.”

The new normal will likely include both curbside service and increased delivery options, says Voss. “We’ve been very fortunate to have great managers and tremendous support from the community and our wage employees to navigate all this. It’s been a heck of a ride, and we’re still battling every day.”

Out of the Office

For millions of office workers, 2020 meant taking meetings in your Zoom shirt and sweatpants. Kirk Johnston is the founder and executive partner of Vaco, a consulting and staffing firm specializing in technology, finance, accounting, supply chain, and logistics. He says many businesses who were dipping their toes in remote-work technology found themselves shoved into the deep end. “I think a lot of them were just slow to adapt, but now that it’s been proven that people can work remotely and be very effective, companies have been forced to say, ‘Gosh, this does work, and there’s no reason we shouldn’t be more flexible because it makes people more productive when they can do the things they need to do for their family and also get their job done and done well.’”

Just before the pandemic, Memphian Audra Watt started a new job as vice president of a medical device company based in Lebanon, Tennessee. “I lead a marketing organization of individuals all over the country, and we’re a global organization, so we interact with people all over the world,” she says. “We have a lot of folks that already worked remotely. I’d never really worked with remote employees. I’d always been with people, who reported to me and my bosses, in the office. So I was like, this is going to be weird. I had no idea it was going to be the new normal. A month into my new job, everybody started working from home. I was shocked at how productive everybody was! It was like, well, we don’t actually need to all be together. Our productivity just skyrocketed to the point where I was telling people, ‘Hey, you don’t need to work nights and weekends.’”

The experience was an eye-opener. “I don’t see a reason to go back to the office in the full-time capacity we had in the past,” she says.

As vaccinations decrease the danger of an office outbreak, a new hybrid model is likely to take hold. “There’s a very hands-on element to what I do, with product development and product management,” says Watt. “Being able to touch and feel, and look at prototypes, and talk to people on the line is super critical. But I don’t do that every day. If I look back at my time in the office, a lot of it was spent on the phone. … I think one of the most compelling things I realized is how much time I spent traveling to get to in-person meetings, which probably could have been accomplished virtually.”

Like most teachers, John Rash, assistant professor at the Center for the Study of Southern Culture at the University of Mississippi, spent the last year and a half teaching remotely. “I would say it went pretty well for certain areas,” he says. “There were definitely some areas where it was not as good as in person, but there’re some areas that actually worked better. … I have one class I teach nearly every semester with a hundred students in it. It’s just not possible to address their questions and individual concerns during class time. A lot of those things that might take two or three back-and-forth emails, now, we can jump on Zoom and get it settled in four or five minutes. I feel like I’ve had a lot more contact with students over the past year than I did previously, just because of that accessibility that’s available through Zoom.”

Johnston says some form of remote work is here to stay. “The question is going to be, what is the best model for each individual company and each individual person? I think both are going to have to be flexible. Those companies that are just saying, ‘No, we’re going back eight-to-five, five days a week,’ will have a hard time recruiting people. And I think those people who are dogmatic and say, ‘I will only work remotely,’ will not find themselves in the best company or the best position. There’s going to be some kind of a compromise on both sides.”

Amy LaVere (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

The Show Must Go On

Amy LaVere and Will Sexton were touring in support of two new albums when COVID shut the country down. “We had gigs just falling away off the calendar,” LaVere says. “We had one big one left in Brooklyn, and it canceled because they shut the city down.”

On the terrifying drive back to Memphis, they stocked up on rice and beans and prepared to hunker down indefinitely. “What will become of us? Is this the end of mankind?”

LaVere and Sexton were among the first Memphis musicians to try streaming shows as an alternative to live gigs. “We just had to figure out a way to try to make a living, but it didn’t really work,” she says. “For the first couple of months, we were doing one a week, and people were very, very generous and sweet to us. It helped us get back on our feet. But then, it just became so saturated, and there were so many people doing what we were doing, that we really just kept at it to keep our craft up. It was a thing to do every week to just not lose your mind.”

Eventually, LaVere and Sexton started playing private, socially distanced shows in their driveway. “I hated the livestream so much,” she says. “It’s really difficult to perform to nobody.”

Zac Ives says the pandemic accelerated changes at Goner Records. “We were already working on a website and converting everything over to a more functional, online way to sell records. We’ve been living in the ’90s for the majority of our lifetime as a company online, and for a while that was fun and it worked. But we went ahead and launched the site we had been working on about a month before it was ready. That was our lifeline.”

Applying for a PPP loan and emergency grants forced Ives to re-examine long-standing assumptions. “The grants made us pull a bunch of different numbers and look at things differently,” Ives says. “My biggest takeaway from all of this is that it forced everybody to get way more creative, and way more flexible with how their business works.

“We were pushing people online to shop, but we also started thinking, if there are no shows, how can we get these records out when the bands can’t tour with them? How do you put stuff in front of people? Our solution was Goner TV.”

Goner had already been livestreaming their annual Gonerfest weekends, but after participating in a streaming festival over Memorial Day weekend 2020, Ives says they realized the bi-weekly show needed to be more than music. “The idea was sort of like the public-access cable shows we used to pass around on VHS tapes,” he says. “People would do all kinds of crazy stuff.”

Filmed on phones and laptops and streaming on Twitch and YouTube, the typical Goner TV episode includes live performances, music videos, comedy, drag queen tarot card readings, puppet shows, and even cooking and cocktail demonstrations. “We recognized that the power of all of this was that there were all these other talented people around who wanted to try to do stuff together. And it really did kind of bring that community back together. We’d get done with these things and be like, ‘Wow, how’d we pull that off?’”

In August 2020, Gretchen McLennon became the CEO of Ballet Memphis. “I think from a strategic standpoint, it made coming into leadership a little more compelling because all the rules go out the window in a global pandemic,” she says. “Dorothy Gunther Pugh left a wonderful legacy. Ballet is a very traditional art form, but it’s time to pivot, and the world was in the midst of a pivot. We just didn’t know where we were going.”

With grants and a PPP loan keeping dancers on staff, Ballet Memphis started streaming shows as an outreach, including an elaborate holiday production of The Nutcracker. Learning a new medium on the fly was difficult, but rewarding. “We had to be thoughtful about the moment in time we were in,” she says. “We successfully filmed over the course of two weeks, but we had to do daily testing of the crew in our professional company and all the staff that was going to be on set. … We wanted that to be a gift to the city of Memphis.”

Held last October, the 2020 Indie Memphis Film Festival was a hybrid of drive-in screenings and streaming offerings. “It was a huge success, without a doubt,” says Director of Artist Development Joseph Carr. “There was no existing infrastructure because no one was doing this prior to the pandemic. It was actually very frowned upon in the film festival world to have films online. Everybody kind of stepped up and rallied around each other in the community and really created a sense that we can all learn from each other. It brought a lot of the festivals much closer together.”

Carr says the virtual format allowed Indie Memphis to expand its audience. “We had filmmakers from as far away as South Korea and Jerusalem, but also we had audiences from those regions. That is impossible to get in any other way.”

Melanie Addington is one of very few people who have led two film festivals during the pandemic. The 2020 Oxford Film Festival was one of the first to go virtual, and by the time 2021 rolled around, the winter wave had subsided enough to allow for some limited in-person and outdoor screenings. “It was, for so many people, literally the first time they’ve been around other people again. And so all those awkward post-vaccine conversations. Like, do we hug? We don’t know what to do with each other anymore when we’re physically in the same space.”

Addington just accepted a new position as director of the Tallgrass Film Festival in Kansas, which means she will be throwing her third pandemic-era festival this fall. “A lot of us have learned there’s a larger market out there who can’t just drop everything for five days and watch a hundred movies. It’s going to allow for a bigger audience.”

McLennon says Ballet Memphis has a full, in-person season planned next year and sees a future for streaming shows. “In our virtual content, we can be more exploratory at low-risk to see, does it resonate? Does it work?”

LaVere sees signs of life in the live music world. “Who knows what the future will hold in the winter, but we’re full steam ahead right now. My calendar is filling up. It seems like every day, the phone is ringing with a new show.”

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

Here for the Beer

It’s around 4:30 p.m. on February 16th, opening day for Crosstown Brewing Co. Two lines stretched from the bar to the back wall. The place was packed.

Was this what Crosstown Brewing founders Clark Ortkiese and Will Goodwin pictured when they ditched their old lives — Ortkiese in something that has to do with chain-link fences and Goodwin in sand and gravel — to parlay their backyard brewing hobby into a livelihood?

Ortkiese and Goodwin certainly had a vision. They wanted to tap into Crosstown Concourse’s vibe. They saw neighbors walking to a brewery. Folks in their 20s and 30s, on the grass areas and the patio behind the building. “Bring your dog. Hang. Enjoy some beers; enjoy the sunshine,” says Ortkiese.

From backyard to Crosstown — Clark Ortkiese (left) and Will Goodwin

But first the logistics. Originally, they planned to be inside the concourse. With one million square feet, there should have been plenty of room. But being in the building would have meant driving beer through an atrium and down a hall to access a loading dock. Concourse pillars would have to be removed to accommodate the brewery. Chris Miner of Crosstown suggested building their own space on land behind the concourse.

They’ve got 10,000 square feet. At front is the taproom, designed by Hope Martin of gbsn Design. The mood is industrial, the furniture modular — the better to make room when crowds reach from the bar to the back wall.

The beer is brewed in a large brew room with gleaming equipment — 600 gallons at a time. The beer is available in retail spots, restaurants, and bars. Currently on tap are Crosstown’s two signature brews that will always be available: the Siren Blonde Ale, what Goodwin calls a “straightforward beer that you can take anywhere.” The brewery even sells a cool sling that holds a six pack, perfect for picnics and other outdoor events. The Traffic IPA is notable for its citrusy notes of tropical fruit and mango. Also currently on tap are the Crosstown Brown, which tastes of caramel and coffee, and the Boll Weevil Saison, with a floral/herbal finish but without the overly bitter taste associated with a saison.

The beer is brewed by home-brewing buddy Stephen Tate, whom they lured back to town from another brewery in Alabama.

One thing they had to figure out is how to scale up from backyard to industrial carbonators in a professional setting. They hired a consultant for that.

Ortkiese says one thing that separates Crosstown Brewing from the pack is its marketing and branding by Tom Martin. The Siren can comes in hot red and gold with aliens and spaceships that shout Metropolis. The Traffic has a warm turquoise-y blue with eyes looking at a rear-view mirror and hands clutching a steering wheel. They look like they could use a beer.

Ultimately, though, Ortkiese says it boils down to the beer. “Our beer is as good as anybody’s in town,” says Ortkiese. “Once you taste it, you’ll want to come back for more.”

Crosstown Brewing is open Wednesday through Friday, 4 to 10 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, noon to 10 p.m.

Crosstown Brewing 1264 Concourse Avenue, 529-7611

Around this time last year, a name was engraved on an old gray ice bucket and presented to the winner. This year, the same thing will happen, another (same?) name on the same ice bucket. It’s like the Stanley Cup.

The Flyer‘s annual Beer Bracket Challenge launched last week. 28 beers going for glory.

Last year’s winner was Ghost River’s classic Gold, the old reliable of Memphis Beers.

This year, three new breweries are heading into the fray: Meddlesome, Crosstown Brewing, and Boscos. Toby Sells explains that Boscos, while not new, wasn’t included last year because he featured only breweries with beers readily available in stores and bars/restaurants. But this year he figured, “You like beer, you need to have Boscos.”

Round One began last week, with the Final Two starting Wednesday, February 28th, at 8 a.m., and running through March 1st, midnight. The winner will be announced in the Flyer‘s March 8th issue.

Sells says he has plenty of favorites among the 28, though he’s not rooting for one beer over the other. “There’s so much good stuff out there. We’ll see how it goes.”

In addition to revealing the winner, the March 8th beer-iffic cover will examine the state of the Memphis beer scene. Can Memphis accommodate more breweries and beers from outside the area? Have Memphis beer-drinkers changed since the scene exploded in 2013?

Check it out and stay tuned for Beer Bracket-related events.

If you are serious about whiskey, you should seriously already have your tickets to the Flyer‘s Whiskey Warmer, set for March 23rd at Overton Square. Twenty-five-plus whiskeys will be available to sample. Those include George Dickel, Old Dominick, Johnnie Walker, Bushmills, Wild Turkey, and more. There will be food from Babalu, live music, and cocktails, with proceeds going to Volunteer Memphis. Tickets are $34 and can be bought at whiskeywarmer.com.

Categories
News The Fly-By

Q & A with Crosstown Brewing Company

Memphians who braved the heavy rain last Saturday for the groundbreaking of Crosstown Concourse got their first taste of beer from Will Goodwin and Clark Ortkiese.

The two behind the proposed Crosstown Brewing Company served samples of a nut brown ale and an IPA at the event. And they’re hoping to be serving more beer in the Crosstown neighborhood in about year or more when they establish their brewery either inside Crosstown Concourse (the new name for Sears Crosstown) or somewhere else in the neighborhood.

They’re currently in talks with the Crosstown Development Team about available space. And while the location remains up in the air, the two friends are determined to move forward with their plans to establish the city’s fifth craft brewery. — Bianca Phillips

Bianca Phillips

Will Goodwin and Clark Ortkiese

Flyer: What inspired you to open a brewery?

Ortkiese: I live in [the] Evergreen [Historic District], so if you’re standing in my backyard, you’re looking up at the [Crosstown Concourse] tower. Will and I have been home-brewing together in my backyard, and when we’re sitting there looking at the tower, we’ve been like, Man, we should really put a brewery in there.

How long have you two been brewing?

Goodwin: Combined, we’ve got about 11 years of brewing behind us. We’re both certified judges with the Beer Judge Certification Program. That gives us an expertise on beer styles. We’re both active members of the Memphis Home Brewers Association. Clark is the president, and I’m the vice-president.

Ortkiese: We’re immersed in beer culture. That’s our lives. That’s all we talk about. We eat, sleep, and drink it. It’s all the books we read. It’s all the magazines we read. It’s what we text each other about. It’s all day, every day — beer, beer, beer.

Goodwin: We entered a Bourbon Barrel Aged Russian Imperial Stout in the Tennessee State Fair last year and came away with the gold.

Is that something you might brew at Crosstown Brewing Company?

Goodwin: That would be a candidate for some kind of special release. Because of the process and the time associated with a beer like that, it wouldn’t be a mainstream beer.

Would your brewery be more focused on classic or experimental beers?

Ortkiese: I’d think we’ll have a little bit of both. There are some people who want to drink the same thing over and over again. And there are a lot of people who never want to drink the same thing twice, and there’s plenty of room to make both of those groups happy.

What’s the projected opening date?
Goodwin
: There’s a lot of permitting that has to be done, so our hands are tied on the timing. Brewing equipment is notoriously slow to be shipped. So we’re looking at middle-to-late 2016. It could push later than that.

Will you have a taproom?

Goodwin: We’ll be a production brewery first and foremost. We have plans to have a canning line and maybe do some large format bottles and, of course, kegs for the restaurants and bars in town. We’ll have a taproom, but we will have limited hours.

What will a brewery bring to the Crosstown neighborhood?

Ortkiese: It’s really a neighborhood that could use a little identity and something to get behind, and nothing brings people together like sharing a beer.

Goodwin: Think about “Untapped” at the Tennessee Brewery last year. That was really something that people could get behind and rally together and really enjoy each other in a unique space. We think Crosstown has a lot of similar characteristics. People can rally behind revitalizing this community and this neighborhood.