Categories
Cover Feature News

Beer Run!

Patios are blossoming all over town. It’s a sure sign that Memphians are tired of winter’s cooped-up spaces, heavy clothes, not to mention those sturdy, stout, comforting winter beers.

Okay, so maybe your first spring thought isn’t: “What new beers are out there?” But it’s one of mine. Beer changes with the seasons, and Memphis has five solid craft breweries — Boscos, Wiseacre, High Cotton, Memphis Made, and Ghost River. That means there’s now an ocean of new, locally made beer out there. Ever heard someone argue about the best local barbecue? Of course you have. If you haven’t heard someone argue best local brewery yet, you will soon.

I gathered The Memphis Flyer staff Friday to sample this spring’s offerings of (mostly) local beers. This year’s crew included editor Bruce VanWyngarden (BV), Justin Rushing (JR), Chris McCoy (CM), Eileen Townsend (ET), Joshua Cannon (JC), Jackson Baker (JB), Shara Clark (SC), Bianca Phillips (BP), Chris Shaw (CS), Chris Davis (CD), managing editor Susan Ellis (SE), and Kendrea Collins (KC).

Professional tasters, (from left) Adam Steele, Dr. Richard Heath, and Nick Vincent

I also brought together three expert beer tasters: Richard Heath (RH), president of Bluff City Brewers & Connoisseurs (BCBC), and BCBC members Adam Steele (AS), a certified beer judge, and award-winning home brewer Nick Vincent (NV).

Wiseacre founders Kellan and Davin Bartosch expertly guided us in our tasting journey. Kellan urged us to appreciate (rather than judge) beers, even if it’s a style we don’t like. “There are no bad beers,” he said.

Big thanks to the owners and staff at Celtic Crossing for letting us take over their killer patio, and protecting us from the pattering rain. Sláinte, and may the road rise to meet you all this St. Patrick’s Day. — Toby Sells

Drew Barton, co-owner and brewer at Memphis Made Brewing

MEMPHIS MADE

Greenswarden Saison Here’s what they say: At first glance, the hazy golden copper of this ale makes it appear calm and reserved. But the citrus punch will make you want to get up and yell, GET OFF OUR LAWN!!!

Here’s what we say:

This citrusy beer packs a flavorful first punch but mellows out after a few sips. Drink one (or three), then hitch a ride to the Greensward and park your butt (definitely not your car) there for a spring picnic. — SC

If a beer can be “refreshing,” this is it. Smooth but sprightly. — BV

Wait for the citrus to sneak in — it’ll knock you on your ass. Memphis Made concocted the perfect beverage to share with friends while you protest parking in the Greensward. — JC

This brew has a rich, golden hue that promises a richer flavor than it delivers. At least this version lacks the aggressive aromatics that some saisons offer. — CM

This is a hoppy, full-bodied saison, but it doesn’t leave that bitter floral aftertaste. It’d be the perfect beer to pack for a picnic on the Greensward. Oh wait? Nevermind, there are cars parked on the Greensward! Lucky for you, this beer would taste just as good on your front porch. — BP

Smooth and savory with a nice citrus flavor. No bite or bitter aftertaste. — JR

Light and fruity, with a healthy serving of that saison yeast character, with just a hint of citrus hop flavor behind it. — NV

An aggressive, “Americanized” version of the Belgian classic. Spicy and peppery yeast phenolics make way for a slight toasted note, followed by a bitter, citrusy finish. — AS

RockBone IPA — What they say: A heavy hand of Herkules hops gives this IPA a real bang, while the Mosaic hops do the dirty work and ooze out flavors of passion fruit and berries.

What we say:

Ok, this one really smells like urine. Thank you for everything you do, precious RockBone. Store up your treasures in heaven. — CS

This IPA stands tall in a flaccid field. Where some IPAs stuff the hops to create a bulging taste profile, RockBone goes deep, hitting the pleasure centers with practiced stimulation. — CM

Tastes like good porn. Hoppy but well-balanced, and you don’t get that overpowering floral aftertaste.  – BP

A healthy dose of hops keeps this stiff IPA bitter yet deliciously fruity, and will stimulate even the most flaccid of taste buds. —NV

Compared to my last RockBone experience, this iteration has a sharper, more well-defined hop flavor, reminiscent of citrus and cherries.The finish is dry, and the bitterness doesn’t linger; an exceptionally drinkable IPA. — AS

HIGH COTTON

ESB — What they say: Medium-high to medium bitterness with supporting malt flavors evident. Normally has a moderately low to somewhat strong caramelly malt sweetness. Hop flavor moderate.

What we say:

The “ESB” (Extra Special Bitter) in the name may fool you: This beer isn’t really bitter at all, though perhaps it is “extra special.” Smooth and light and would be a great go-to for less adventurous drinkers. — SC

A light but satisfying ESB, not much going on here in terms of hops. I always thought ESB stood for Extremely Shitty Beer. I now realize I’ve been living a lie. — CS

Hoppy but calm. A journeyman taste (and that’s no insult). — JB
It tastes like biscuits. It’s totally acceptable to drink this for breakfast, right? — BP

Light, with hints of biscuit malts and a lingering sweetness that’s pleasant. Sure to appeal to many palates with its conservative flavor. — NV

A balancing act of floral, earthy English hops, fruity yeast, and nutty malt character. Ever-so-slightly buttery, which is common in English-style beers. Thinking of introducing your Michelob Ultra-drinking dad to craft beer? Start here. — AS

Red Ale — What they say: The unique grain bill lends the beer to an easy-drinking malty body, with no lack of Perle hops to provide earthiness and subtle spice.

What we say:

I call this one “Old Reliable” because it’s always on target. A good drinking beer for any occasion. — BV

High Cotton has another hit on its hands, starting with the substantial mouth feel, enabled by the relatively low carbonation. The sign of careful craftsmanship that is not chasing trends. — CM

Very light and refreshing. Mild flavor. Good beer! — JR

Dark copper in color, this beer is rich with malty and sweet flavors, low in hops, and is a tasty alternative to yeasty/hoppy spring offerings. —NV

Slight caramel sweetness up front, but finishes dry and clean. This one would serve well as an inoffensive introduction to craft beer that you could drink a whole bunch of. — AS

Kellan Bartosch (upper), owners of Wiseacre Brewing

WISEACRE

Adjective Animal Double IPA — What they say: This is as hop-forward as it gets. Sticky, resinous, orange peel, pine, and grapefruit aromas shall waft forth.

What we say:

Surprisingly, this double IPA isn’t as hoppy as one might expect. It’s fruity, floral, and way easier to drink than other hop-forward beers. 10 out of 10. — SC

A big, bouncy, perky brew that packs an 8.6 alcohol punch. Careful with this one, cowboy. — BV

Apparently a hop called Nugzilla is used in making this beer. I feel like Muck Sticky is super bummed he can’t name his next album that now. Or maybe he can? — CS

Wiseacre’s Adjective Animal Double IPA made me take back every comparison to pissed-on lemons I’ve made about IPAs. This beer is hoppy as hell, but it rubs you the right way. — JC

It has a complex flavor profile, balancing all of the elements perfectly. There are hoppy notes you expect, but it’s not trying to slap you in the face with it. — CM

Smooth with delicate hints of floral hops and citrus, and spiciness adds balance. Also, the name is the buzzy bee’s knee. Or maybe it’s the grumpy cat’s pajamas.  (You see what I did there? Don’t even get me started with dreaming up adjectives for animals. I could go all day.) — BP

Good sipping beer, great taste. Nice change-up from your typical domestic or import. — JR

What can I say — hops, hops, hops! Full of aroma, flavor, and bitterness, wreaking havoc on your palate with a piercing yet smooth hop bitterness that easily masks its hefty alcohol content. — NV

Huge resinous pine, citrus, and tropical notes with a slightly sweet malt undertone that’s hard to describe. Smooth, clean, yet intense bitterness. Enough to keep you interested until the last sip. — AS

Familie Freund: Dusseldorf Altbier — What they say: German, copper-colored ale with rich, toasty malts (smells like really toasted bread with a touch of honey on it) balanced with a firm bitter backbone.

What we say:
Lots of pop. Lots of flavor. Like that crazy uncle who shows up for Thanksgiving every couple years. — BV

Bitter and malty at the same time, kind of tastes like those Haribo candy Coke bottle things. — CS

It starts sharp on the tongue, defined by its Champagne-like effervescence, but the flavor opens up quickly, revealing a pleasing hoppy note. — CM

Wiseacre is known for upping the hops in just about every style, and this bitter, malty brew is, indeed, hoppy. But I don’t find the hops as off-putting as I do in some of their beers. It seems more balanced, and has a nice mouthfeel. (Did I seriously just say “mouthfeel”?) — BP

Rich with malty, yeasty lager character, this copper-colored beer is a refreshing choice for a those who want a richer, fuller spring beer experience. — NV

Malty aroma and flavor reminiscent of bread dough, grapes, toast, and caramel. Not sweet, though — the finish is nice and dry. Assertively bittered to provide balance and drinkability. Damn near perfect. — AS

Quiet Man Irish Stout — What they say: The beer packs a roasty punch yet remains light on its feet. A carbonated version of the classic Irish style will leave you wanting to go back in the ring for another round.

What we say:

The wise guys from Wiseacre told us that comparing different beers is a bit like comparing burgers to tacos. My question is: Why is this cheeseburger not a taco? Just kidding. This is a great cheeseburger. — SC

Surprisingly flat and watery despite its heavy look. A late, somewhat bitter aftertaste . — JB

Perhaps the only remnant of my Irish heritage is that I love stouts. Also, I’m stubborn and often belligerent. But back to the stouts. This is a very good one, even if it doesn’t have the giant head you might be used to from pulling Guinness taps. — CM

Much hoppier than I’d expect from an Irish stout, but it’s drinkable. It has that nice soy sauce aftertaste that I love in a good stout, but the heavy hops would mean I’d probably just drink one and switch to a more classic stout. — BP

This beer is light and drinkable, yet still hits the mark with its subtle roasted flavors. A great example of the style. — NV

A pleasant, roasted, coffee-like aroma with some mild fruity yeast character. Prickly carbonation and thin-bodied. Think Guinness, except fresher and more flavorful. — AS

Flyer staff drinking, er, “working” hard so you don’t have to!

BOSCOS

Hop God — What they say: In this version of it, the more hops the better. We took fresh hops and some new varieties we’ve never used in here before — Summit and Horizon. It’s actually going to have the hop profile behind it and is not as malty.

What we say:
Praise the Lord and pass the beer. And hop to it. — BV

Smells like pee, but tastes way better, I guess. I’m not saying I’ve ever drank pee. I’ve never drank pee. Damn. This isn’t going well. Amazing beer. — CS

Smooth, mellow, vaguely sweet, large in its suggestions. — JB

Least favorite beer of the tasting. Overly flavorful to the point where it’s sour. Like drinking a beer out of a marathon runner’s tube sock. — JR

I was not a fan of this beer and have tasted better versions of it in the past. — NV

Hello, grapefruit! Moderately bitter with a clean-ish finish and just enough malt backbone for balance. — AS

Oatmeal Stout — What they say: Obviously, we brewed this for St. Patrick’s Day. Pretty Dry. Easy to drink.

What we say:

Some may argue that darker beers are better for colder months, but this one’s good year ’round. A roasted malt aroma and flavor makes way for coffee and bittersweet chocolate notes. — SC

Dry enough to slow you down and make you thoughtful. — JB

The beer that eats like a meal! Bosco’s has been brewing some variation on this beer since the brewpub was in Saddle Creek, and they’ve got it dialed in. — CM

Too sweet! I want a beer, not a cupcake! I love oatmeal stouts but not this one. — BP

Full body of roasted and chocolate flavors, but I don’t detect any mint flavors. Overall still very good, but falls a tad short of its description. — NV

A little sweet up front; full-bodied, with a bit of a slick mouthfeel from the oats. The roast malt character is pretty restrained. — AS

Wee Heavy — What they say: This is a maltier amber ale, a stronger amber ale. It’s a darker seasonal. Try to get it on tap when it’s colder outside.

What we say:

This slightly sweet and caramelly brew has a nutty flavor with a hint of smoke. Easier to drink and not as heavy as its dark beer brethren, but rather a wee bit heavy, as the name suggests. — SC

More like “wee disappointing.” I was expecting something more along the lines of a stout, but on first taste, I’m hit by an overpowering sweetness. — BP

Good flavor, but the texture was very filmy and wheaty. — JR

This beer is smells strongly of caramel sweet malts, but has a strange taste to it I’ve never gotten from the style. I’m not a big fan of it. — NV

A full-bodied malt bomb. Tastes of caramel and prunes with some slight roasty notes. This is the right beer to have next to a fire with a steak and some blue cheese. — AS

GHOST RIVER

Barrel-Aged (Midnight) Magic — What they say: We let it spend four months in some oak barrels which had recently been emptied. Along with the dark malty flavors already present in the beer, the months spent in the barrels added some smooth oak and a hint of bourbon aroma we were able to unlock from the wood.

What we say:

I’m a huge fan of the Midnight Magic. Sadly, I’m not a huge fan of bourbon. The barrel aging added such a pungent bourbon aroma and flavor. — SC

A bridge beer — hard and heavy, a prelude to going home or going on to drinking harder stuff. — JB

What normally is a highly drinkable light stout, this version of MM is overpowered heavily by the barrel aging. — NV

Holy bourbon, Batman. Boozy with some vanilla and oak notes from the barrel. This might work if the base beer had been a fuller-bodied, higher-ABV offering. — AS

What’s Good IPA — What they say: The brewhouse staff have created a solid foundation of golden malt flavors upon which they built a glorious monument to the hops.

What we say:

You know the rare occasions when you see beams of sunlight bursting out between cracks in clouds? They’re called crepuscular rays. If those had a flavor, this would be it. — SC

I really liked this one. Drink it if you know What’s Good for ya. — BV

What’s good is this here beer. This has my favorite elements of an IPA. Super bitter with a fruity aftertaste. Definitely getting some of this for the fridge. My favorite so far. — CS

Full of fruity, citrusy aroma, this beer smells as if it’s got actual fruit in it, and its flavor matches that theme. A good choice for those new to IPA. — NV

Categories
Music Music Blog

The River Series Returns to Maria Montessori School

courtesy of Goner Records

Ross Johnson plays the River Series at the Harbor Town Amphitheater on Saturday, October 24th.

The last group of River Series shows at the Harbor Town Amphitheater were such a success that the organizers have decided to go for round two! The River Series is sponsored by Goner Records, The Downtown Memphis Commission, Wiseacre Brewing, Miss Cordelia’s, and Shoulder Tap Records. The Wiseacre beer is free, but each show requires a $5 donation to benefit the school. All shows start at 6 p.m., with the first band on by 7. The schedule is below. 

Saturday, September 12th. 
Impala

James & the Ultrasounds

DJ Hot Tub Eric

Saturday, October 3rd. 
Toy Trucks

Jeff Hulett & Leah Keys

Saturday, Oct 24th. 
Jeff Evans and Ross Johnson

The Maitre D’s

Categories
Cover Feature News

Spring Brews

These days you can watch the seasons change in your pint glass.

Beers have always changed with the seasons. They do in Memphis now, too, thanks to the maturing craft beer scene here. 

Like the leafers who hit the New Hampshire backroads each fall, you can watch the beer seasons turn here with the changing tap handles at the big draft houses like the Flying Saucer and the Young Avenue Deli. Watch the chalkboard menus change at the Madison Growler Shop and the newly branded Hammer and Ale (formerly The Growler) in Cooper-Young. Heck, even watch the six packs change at just about every gas station in Midtown or downtown.

Just a very few weeks ago, Memphis was a fortress of ice and snow. It was the time for staying warm and inside, brooding over heavy beers — roasty porters and coffee-tasting stouts.

The ice is gone. Flowers are blooming. It’s a time for sitting on a patio with your friends drinking lighter stuff, like crisp and clean pilsners and freshly picked pale ales.

Knowing many of you are heading to patios to do just that, we wanted to give you a guide to what has just come on tap now and some of the handy standbys you can drink all spring and summer long.

Photographs by Justin Fox Burks

J.C. Youngblood and the good people at Central BBQ allowed us to set up our tasting shop at their downtown location on the back patio. There, we unloaded our coolers and dug into more than a dozen local, regional, and national beers.

The caveat here is that no one on the Flyer staff is a beer expert. We’ve seen the business end of our share of pints, but we’re no cicerones. We needed help.

So, we brought in spirit guides for this vision quest. David Smith and Kevin Elbe from Hammer and Ale described the beers we were drinking as did last year’s cover boy, Taylor James, beer manager at the Madison Growler Shop. 

Our tasters this year were Flyer editor Bruce VanWyngarden (BV), staff writers Louis Goggans (LG), Chris Davis (CD), and Toby Sells (TS); senior editor Jackson Baker, former music editor Joe Boone, film and TV editor Chris McCoy (CM), regular Flyer contributor Eileen Townsend (ET), and Inside Memphis Business editor Richard Alley (RA), who made it plain that he doesn’t like IPAs. — TS

Toby Sells

Hefeweizen, High Cotton 

What they say: “Traditional German hefeweizen … citrusy … doesn’t carry the heavy banana flavor as some do.”

I can see drinking a lot of this without thinking very much about it. It doesn’t have much “mouth taste” (I think that’s what I heard the beer men call it?), once you swallow you are no longer thinking about what was going on before you swallowed. They should call it The Amnesiac. Goldfish Brew. — ET

Don’t you want to taste your beer while you’re sitting by the pool? With this hefeweizen, you get the clean, summery, effervescence you want in the summer time. It’s a beer that tastes like a beer should. — CM

This wheat beer is golden in color and is light enough for sipping on the porch. It has an aftertaste, though, that would make me stop at one. Not an all-day beer. — RA

I’m not a hefeweizen guy. But High Cotton turned down that banana-taste volume way down on this one. I could fall in love with a … hefeweizen?

Louis Goggans

Grindhouse Ale, Ghost River

What they say: “A light cream ale designed to be enjoyable to all types of beer enthusiasts. The subtle malt and hop flavors tease your palette and demand another taste.

A round, almost fruity taste, bright and sassy. An open-voweled beer. — Jackson Baker

We got this beer early in the formal tasting. I called it “normal” beer. It has a drinkable consistency and a distinct lack of banana. I came back to this beer once we were set loose on the goods. I’ll drink this on tap. Joe Boone

Tasteless and timid, it is apparently aimed at the Bud Light drinker who is scared of the microbrew. And while it is better than Bud Light, it’s not up to the standards of this great Memphis brewery. — CM

Light and creamy, like drinking a big boy cream soda. I like a cream soda, but the aftertaste of this beer stayed with me like grandma’s hard candy. Another one that would stop me after a single pint. — RA

Suzy B, Southern Prohibition

What they say:  This dirty blonde with a pinch of wheat has a nice honey malt backbone and a balanced bitterness set apart by its pleasant cascade hop aroma.

I foresee a six-pack of this appearing on my grocery list in the near future. It was pretty smooth and palatable. — LG

Suzy was the belle of the ball. This is a summer beer that’s balanced between flavor and heft. It’s a natural beer. It’s not some dude showing off with a 20-minute discourse of some aspect of beer culture that his wife must hate. It’s just a beer. Order this. — Joe Boone

The Southern Prohibition blonde ale tasted unremarkable at first, but it did boast an excellent balance, even though the finish was slightly bitter. But as our tasting went on (and on…), I found myself coming back to it. This one’s a grower, not a shower. — CM

This blonde ale was made in Hattiesburg, Mississippi. But it seems made for a hot night on a Midtown porch. — TS 

Eileen Townsend

Starless, Wiseacre 

What they say: Schwarzbier. Dark elegance.

Relatively bitter, but I enjoyed it. It’ll go great with one of my signature grilled T-bones. — LG

Considering it’s a black lager, it’s lighter on the palate than you would think, nothing at all like engine sludge. — Jackson Baker

Whoa! This tastes like licking a walnut. It is very mellow. If I were to write a fantasy novel about this beer, it would be a gentle but wise animal in a magical forest. — ET

Dark in color, but with a lighter mouthfeel than Guinness, this black lager immediately got my attention by combining the best of both worlds between a lager and a stout. In my notebook from the tasting, in big letters, I wrote “BEST BEER,” so this one is a keeper. — CM

Here we go: a stout, malty lager with a roasted flavor, a darker beer I can sink my teeth into. This is what I like, and it was perfect (not too heavy) for this first day of spring on the patio with just a slight nip still in the air. — RA

Hornet’s Revenge, Ghost River

What they say: Very medium in body, which gives it a twist with most black beers being heavier set (fatties). A hint of sweetness, followed by the a crisp and clean hoppy finish.

The saying “Don’t judge a book by its cover” fits perfectly with this beer. It’s a dark IPA but light in taste. Nevertheless, it didn’t sit well with my taste buds. — LG

Nice pale ale, looks a bit dark, but doesn’t taste dark. It’s got some snap to it. — Jackson Baker

While working on a farm in my youth, I once suffered a hornet’s revenge. It hurt like a sumbitch. This Hornet’s Revenge was much nicer — a rich, dark, creamy payback that caused pleasure, not pain. I even went back for more. You might say Revenge is sweet. — BV

I would drink anything with this name. A black pale ale involved similar trickery to the Starless: It’s a dark beer that has flavor but lacks the knockout tanginess of trendy IPAs. — Joe Boone

I don’t feel “hornet” from this, unless it is a literary reference. This is a beer for successful academics in very remote fields and people who enjoy seeing stage productions of English tragedies. It is strange and complicated and good, but probably not to take lightly. — ET 

Ghost River scores with this playful combination of styles. It’s bitter, but with a light mouthfeel and just enough hops to keep it interesting. This went really well with the Central BBQ I was snacking on while we were tasting, and I think it would pair excellently with a big, fat burger from the grill. — CM

Beautiful dark beer, but you can’t fool me — this is a pale ale. It’s fruity and won’t abide. Nope. — RA

Love that Ghost River has unleashed its brewing talent with the Brewers’ Series of seasonal and one-off beers. This black pale ale is bold, balanced, and delicious. — TS   

Session IPA, High Cotton

What they say: Citrusy hops, low alcohol, kind of deceiving for an IPA, and very smooth. 

I’m a little offended at the idea of calling a “session” to drink multiple beers. I thought this was America. But given the brewers’ tendency to cram as much flavor and alcohol into a can, I get where this beer is coming from. — Joe Boone

This beer is the Justin Bieber of beers (Bieber circa 2013-2014, when he was getting arrested and peeing in public and fighting with Orlando Bloom or whoever) because it knows you are curious about it, and it knows it has a lot of spirit (/spirits) to offer, and it does not give a fuck. — ET

Very sharp, light, and acidic. I’m not sure who this low alcohol beer is designed for, but it isn’t me. The first sip made my salivary glands seize up. Not recommended. — CM

I’m a big fan of the ESB at High Cotton, and I love their taproom. But the name says it all: IPA. On this first day of spring, I prefer my flowers in the ground and not in my glass. — RA

Session beers? More beers and more time to drink ’em? Hell, yes. I could drink this IPA for a very long session. Who’s buying? — TS

Spring Seasonal, Yazoo 

What they say: A Helles bock style …nice deep tan color with a slight bready sweet aroma, with a light mouth feel that finishes with a smooth maltiness and clean hop flavor.

Two thumbs up! This one was fruity, flavorful, and delivered a smooth aftertaste. It’s perfect for the springtime.  — LG

Tangy but mellow, a little gold sneaking through, not so much light as buoyant. — Jackson Baker

Spring Seasonal was heavenly — a light, citrusy, easy-to-drink beer that had me wanting to dance around in a field of daisies. Or maybe just sit on my porch and drink more. — BV

Okay, so this is the beer for the boat. This beer is like your best bro from college — not the one that used to do a bunch of coke and now works in investments, but the responsible one who has made good life choices but doesn’t brag about them. It is respectable but also relaxed, simple, never shallow. — ET

It’s light and citrusy, and the best of these light beers so far. It’s the only one I would drink for a whole session (beer term and I have no idea what it means). — RA

Lucid, Memphis Made

What they say: This pale golden German ale is light and crisp. Memphis Made’s only year-round beer, it has a slightly bready aroma and a spicy hop note from Herkules hops. 

This is the ideal brew to guzzle down after you’ve finished some extensive yard work in the humid Memphis heat. — LG

A little watery, for better or for worse. It’s a beer for way down the line when you need something that goes down easy. — Jackson Baker

Bubbly and regional-ish. Deutsche. Ich finde die Memphis Made Lucid Kolsch ich bin sehr gut! Ja wohl.  — ET

This is a carefully controlled, well-balanced, German beer. Nothing fancy, just quality, like a well-made, comfy chair. If you’ve got this waiting for you after you mow the lawn, you’re in good shape. — CM

Light and fruity, but not too much. I could drink a few of these in a sitting, and I probably have. It’s a German-style, but none of the bitterness that comes with the hoppiness. — RA

Rockbone IPA, Memphis Made 

What they say: A heavy hand of Herkules hops gives this IPA a real bang, while the Mosaic hops do the dirty work and ooze out flavors of passion fruit and berries.

Got some kick to it, all right, as if made of wild grass. Anti-mellow. Lovers of buttermilk probably like it. — Jackson Baker

Long and strong and turgid. Best to finish it quick. Too much of this bad boy and you’ll be tweeting embarrassing stuff all over the internet. — BV

When Memphis’ beloved Rockbone made his or her ignominious debut into Memphis society, some suggested that, after what must have been a stressful day, people should buy that person a beer. Folks at Memphis Made must have been listening: They created a beer especially for Rockbone. IPA stands for Internet Porn Aficionado, right? No? My bad. — Joe Boone

This is the beer to do your air guitar solo with. But what band will you sample? Not Journey! Nope. Not even Def Leppard. This is a straight-up Axl Motherfucking Rose beer. It wears its denim shirts real tight, with some buttons open. It doesn’t shy away from a bandana. — ET

Boomslang IPA, Wiseacre 

What they say: Unlike most Belgian beers with little hop bitterness, flavor, and aroma … Belgian IPAs are bursting forth with all of those.

Bitter for no damn reason. Period. — LG

Boom-slanga-langa-langa! Floral-ish, hoppy, Belgian beer that makes a statement: Drink me. Drink me now or die. — BV

By the time we got to this beer, we had smashed almost everything in the place and the staff had retreated next door to call the authorities. — Joe Boone

Again with the IPAs. This was the last beer and, honestly, I was too buzzed to give a shit any longer. I do feel bad, though, about Central BBQ’s flower bed on the south side of their patio, where we tossed the dregs of our glasses. On the bright side, their azaleas should look terrific in a few weeks. — RA

Chris Davis, a gluten-free man, tested a number of brews for the wheat-averse. Never let it be said the Flyer doesn’t love you. All of you.

Hopsation, Woodchuck Cider 

Hopsation is a “hop forward” cider that aims to be more beer-like by adding a bitter dose of hops to the fruity brew. The result is a more complex sip. I’ve never been a cider fan, although this somewhat citrusy, riesling-like option has softened my opinion. — CD

Pale Ale, Omission 

Bubbly, honey-colored, and fragrant, Omission comes on crisp and refreshing. It has herbal notes and a distinct toasted-biscuit flavor that, I suppose, makes it a breakfast beer. But I’d happily drink it with lunch or dinner, too. — CD

Redbridge, Anheuser-Busch

Redbridge may not have a complex craft beer flavor profile, but it’s completely drinkable. Oh sure, this sorghum-based beer has the malty/yeasty smell of a laundry pile, but it absolutely beats the pants off a Bud Light. — CD

Categories
Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Gotta Try This: Wiseacre’s Holy Candy Belgian Dubbel

Holy_Candy_Label.jpg

As the Flyer gears up for tomorrow’s Cooper Young Regional Beerfest, we decided to wet our whistle with a seasonal favorite from Wiseacre Brewery. After a successful debut last year, Wiseacre’s Holy Candy is returning for a victory lap in 2014.

[jump]

To get the scoop on the beer, I caught up with Wiseacre’s resident Teller of Tales/Captain of Industry, Kellan Bartosch. Fresh from last week’s win at the Great American Beer Festival in Denver—Wiseacre’s Tiny Bomb took third place in the German Pilsner category—Bartosch was feeling fine, and decided to join me for a tall one.

“Part of me was actually hoping we wouldn’t win,” reflected Bartosch, “because I knew we’d have to go out and party a bunch more.”

JKM_Holy_Candy.JPG

Holy Candy is a Belgian Dubbel: a complex, spicy beer traditionally brewed by Trappist Monks. But whereas the monks usually add a bit of candy sugar for sweetness, Wiseacre decided to use fig puree. That’s how they came up with the name Holy Candy.

“Last year,” remembered Bartosch, “my brother Davin and I were eating some figs, and he was like, hey, this is what Jesus would have eaten if he wanted candy!”

You might think that adding figs would result in a sweeter beer. Well, yes and no. The yeast actually eats up most of the sugar, so Holy Candy is pretty dry. The result is a nice, fruity opening—think plums and raisins—with a clean, dry finish. Bonus points if you can taste the faint notes of white pepper, a gift from the yeast.

Bartosch recommends pairing Holy Candy with red meat. (“I actually think it’d be a good burger beer,” he mused.) He also envisioned a spinach salad with cranberries, walnuts, and balsamic vinaigrette—which was more than I could bear on an empty stomach. In the name of the yeast, the malt, and the holy fig, I tossed off my beer and headed home for supper. Amen.

Categories
Food & Wine Food & Drink

How to Drink a Beer

Memphis Made Brewing Company has been in operation about 10 months and has introduced 16 styles of beer to the Memphis market. Two new IPAs are being introduced this month, including Guitar Attack in bottles and a Golden Ale especially for Gonerfest aptly named GBR. Their popular Lucid Kolsch is slated to be their first year-round offering.

When it comes to advising one on how to drink a beer, Memphis Made co-owner Andy Ashby puts it plainly: Hold glass, tilt, don’t choke. Brewmaster Drew Barton takes the question a bit more seriously. His first bit of advice? Don’t smoke. “It distracts from the flavors,” he says, adding, “Also, it’s so bad for you.”

Ashby, who has now put out his one cigarette of the day, says that temperature is also important for serving different styles of beer. “Ales, and we just brew ales, generally speaking, can go warmer than lagers,” he says. “The English drink their beer cool not cold. The mass majority of Americans like to drink their lighter lagers really cold.” Ashby notes that while a PBR will not improve in taste 30 minutes after being opened, a stout or a porter may very well taste better and have more flavor after it warms.

Barton says there’s a reason to drink cheap beer cold — to mute the flavors. Ashby agrees saying that really, really cold beer stuns the taste buds, which are the gatekeepers.

Barton says 40 to 45 degrees is a good temperature depending on the beer. “Some brewers put suggestions on the bottle for temperatures and style of glass, but they aren’t hard and fast. You don’t have to drink Chimay out of a Chimay glass,” he says.

Both Ashby and Barton liken the temperature issue to wine. In general, red wine is better at room temperature and white is better chilled — although Barton reserves the right to put ice cubes in his red.

Ashby also advises using a clean glass. Barton agrees, “A dirty glass can cause an off flavor. Any film will cause nucleation sites. Bubbles form and while the head retention may be better, it will decarbonate quicker,” he says. Ashby, translating, says, “If bubbles stick to the side of your glass, it isn’t clean.”

Speaking of head, Ashby says a pinky’s worth is a good measure. “How much head depends on style. The Brits like no head, or less than one centimeter. Belgium styles may have two inches.”

Barton adds, “Belgians argue that you should pour straight and foam it up.” Ashby offers his advice on a proper pour: “Hold it at a 45 degree angle. Get the tap close to the lip of the far side of the glass and make sure it is fully open. Fill it two-thirds or three-fourths of the way and then level out the glass to finish filling.”

Ashby and Barton are in the process of finishing a taproom and patio and hope to have them open in the next month or so.

Justin Fox Burks

High Cotton

High Cotton Brewing Company’s taproom (598 Monroe) is open Thursdays (4-8ish), Fridays (4-10ish) and Saturdays (2-10ish) and features seven to eight beers, including the ESB, Biere de Garde, CT Czar IPA, Hefeweizen, Scottish Ale, Pilsner, and Milk Stout. They also have 160 taps around town.

Owner Brice Timmons is the go-to guy for anyone who wants to feel really good about drinking beer. “Drink beer with family and friends. Beer is about community and friendship,” he says. “It’s quite literally the origin of civilization.”

Beat that, wine!

Timmons says that monolithic hunters and gatherers had a more varied diet than farmers and had more time for leisure and socialization. “Anthropologists spent decades trying to figure out why anyone would choose farming. It was to grow grain to make beer,” he says. “The point being that humans have developed a civilization in which beer and community are inextricably linked. We do ourselves a service when we gather in clean, well-lit places to drink beer and spend time with friends and family.”

His second piece of advice on how to drink a beer is to drink without judgment. “There is no benefit to snobbery. If someone wants a Bud Light from a bottle, that is their business. Likewise, if someone wants a Belgium sour ale in a flared tulip glass at 55 degrees so they can take tasting notes, so be it.”

Personally, Timmons likes to drink beer from a Burgundy wine glass because it focuses the aroma but still has heft. “I like to spend time thinking about the aroma and how it goes from nose to palate to finish seamlessly. When it smells like fresh biscuits, tastes like malty bread, and finishes with the sweetness of toast, it’s a beautiful thing,” he says.

Timmons says that craft beer’s greatest advantage as a beverage is that it’s accessible to everyone. “Even the best beers are affordable, maybe not every day, but … making such an accessible beverage inaccessible through snobbery or pretense doesn’t do a service to anybody.”

On October 4th, High Cotton will be tapping a special release Oktoberfest lager as part of their block-wide Oktoberfest celebration from noon to 7 p.m. General admission is $40 (VIPs $100 per person or $150 per couple). There will be all the beer you can get to the front of the line for, a whole pig roast, a buffet including locally made bratwurst, traditional fermented delights like sauerkraut and dill pickles, folk music, traditional music, and family-friendly activities.

Justin Fox Burks

Wiseacre

Wiseacre Brewing Company offers two year-round beers in cans — Ananda IPA and Tiny Bomb American Pilsner — and features those as well as a host of other beers in its taproom (2783 Broad), which is open Thursdays (4-8 p.m.), Fridays, (4-10 p.m.) and Saturdays (1-8 p.m.).

Co-founder Kellan Bartosch believes drinking beer should be less scary to newcomers and more light-hearted for “connoisseurs.” He says, “Folks often come to the taproom and lay out their fears before ordering. ‘I don’t like dark beers’ or ‘My husband likes the mega hoppy stuff, but, yuck, I think it’s gross — do you have wine?'”

Bartosch says it would be easy to condescend to these new patrons with beer vernacular and BJCP-style (Beer Judge Certification Program) guidelines vs. modern American brewing techniques, but he and his brother, the brewmaster, Davin, would like everybody to know that there are relatable flavors and textures in beer from the rest of the gustatory world. “Like coffee? Stouts have roasted flavors. Enjoy bananas? Hefeweizen yeast produces banana-like ester compounds,” he notes. “Tiny Bomb is a clean, crisp lager that’s similar in style to many macro-produced beers but has a ton more flavor — so much so Southern Living said it was the best beer in the state!”

All this is to say that the Bartosch brothers think people should drink beer with an open mind and know that there is bound to be something recognizable in beer that he or she might enjoy. “Much like other subcultures with way too much seriousness, it shouldn’t be forgotten that this is beer and not rocket science. In our internet culture so many have taken it upon themselves to become critics of whatever the topic is, arguing on message boards or writing derogatory messages on social media. Simply pointing a finger and being a critic is easy; being an appreciator is more difficult and inclusive in the long run,” he says.

However, he does also believe there is a time for analysis, excessive sniffing, and such. “Aroma, appearance, flavor, mouthfeel, and history all play an important part in understanding what you’re drinking. Beer ingredients, what flavors/textures they create, and the role they play in different styles can teach us that it’s silly to complain about a Marzen not being hoppy because that’s like getting mad at a burger for not being Thai curry,” he says.

Bartosch continues, “Balance is a touch achievement on the brewery side and learning to appreciate that can be zen-like. Similarly, making something clean and delicate is more challenging than making something extreme. Understanding that every style of beer can be enjoyable the same way we peruse genres of music or food based on our moods is much wiser than only drinking IPAs.”

Categories
Cover Feature News

Untapped!

Years ago, some anonymous graffiti artist adorned a piece of plywood nailed onto the long-abandoned Tennessee Brewery building with a painting of a snaggle-toothed green monster in a fedora. A thought bubble beside his head reads, “Inve$t in Good Time$!”

Justin Fox Burks

Doug Carpenter

The monster has become weathered over the years, with plywood cracks showing through his paint. But a group of enterprising Memphis movers and shakers have taken his message to heart. In an effort to both save the historic Tennessee Brewery from demolition and have a good time in the process, the group is investing their own money and time to put on an event dubbed “Tennessee Brewery Untapped.”

Every Thursday through Sunday from April 24th through June 1st, the courtyard and two inside rooms of the brewery will be converted into a beer garden with local craft brews, food trucks, pop-up retail, live music, and more.

Justin Fox Burks

Taylor Berger

Restaurateur Taylor Berger, attorney Michael Tauer, commercial real estate executive Andy Cates, and communications specialist Doug Carpenter are pouring money into this last-ditch effort to save the endangered brewery.

Mayor’s Innovation Delivery Team project managers Tommy Pacello and Abby Miller, who have organized similar pop-up events through the mayor’s office, have been consulting with the team. And Doug Carpenter & Associates public relations specialist Kerry Hayes has contributed ideas and promotion for the event.

Kevin Norman, who owns the brewery under the name Tennessee Brewery LLC, bought the building in an effort to save it back in 1997. But after years of failed deals with potential buyers, Norman has plans to demolish the building by the end of July if no one steps forward to purchase it before then.

“They have a termination clause available for the first six months, and they know they can sell the land after that. There are ongoing expenses with holding this type of building,” says the building’s leasing agent James Rasberry. “That six months has already started, and come the end of July, we will be seeing a demolition crew working on that building. The clock is ticking, no question.”

Enter “Tennessee Brewery Untapped.” The idea behind the free, open-to-the-public pop-up event is to showcase the brewery in a new light and, perhaps, demonstrate the building’s untapped potential. It’s a form of pre-vitalization, a new urbanist tactic exhibiting ways the building could be revitalized before any revitalization efforts are in place.

By holding the event in just the courtyard and two bottom-floor rooms, the event’s sponsors are hoping to show potential investors that revitalizing the building doesn’t have to be a multi-million dollar project.

“Finish the courtyard and the two rooms we’re using, put in some bathrooms, and have some weddings there for a year or two,” says Tauer. “Build up some capital and take on another room, and then we don’t have to lose that beautiful building at the end of the summer.”

Justin Fox Burks

helped do layout drawings for the set up of Tennessee Brewery Untapped; Larry Bloch a former owner of the Tennessee Brewery building surveys the progress with James Raspberry

From Brewery to Beer Garden

Up to 250,000 barrels of beer, including the Tennessee Brewing Company’s iconic Goldcrest 51, were brewed at 495 Tennessee Street in the brewery’s heyday at the turn of the 20th century. And beginning Thursday, April 24th, beer will again flow at the old brewery.

In the past couple years, four craft breweries have popped up in Memphis, and all four — Ghost River, Wiseacre, High Cotton, and Memphis Made — will be serving their beers in the beer garden. Twelve taps will feature mostly local beers with a couple of regional offerings.

The beer garden will be open Thursday through Sunday until June 1st. Hours will be from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Thursdays and Sundays, with hours extended until 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Each Sunday from noon to 6 p.m., Untapped will host “Beer Garden with Benefits,” and $1 from each beer sale will be refunded back to customers in the form of a token. Those tokens can be placed in one of several buckets representing area nonprofits, such as Project Green Fork, Habitat for Humanity, and Church Health Center, among others. The event’s sponsors will match the nonprofit receiving the most tokens at the end of each Sunday.

Food trucks from Fuel, Stick ‘Em, Rock ‘n’ Dough, and others, will rotate throughout each weekend. Berger and Tauer, partners in the soon-to-open Truck Stop food truck court/restaurant at Cooper and Central, have parked their official Truck Stop truck in the brewery’s courtyard.

Justin Fox Burks

Andy Cates, Tommy Pacello, and Michael Tauer

“That will become the kitchen of the Truck Stop when it opens, but for [Untapped], we’re thinking about bringing in some different chefs and trying different types of cuisine,” Tauer says.

There will be pop-up retail from various local vendors, including designer T-shirt shop Sache, which created three shirts promoting the Untapped event, including one that features the aforementioned green monster.

Live music will be limited to acoustic acts, due to requests from residents of the surrounding South Bluffs neighborhood to keep the noise level low. Opening weekend will feature Caleb Sweazy on Friday, April 25th, and Apollo Mighty with Josh Crosby and Jeremy Stanfill of Star & Micey on Saturday, April, 26th, at 8 p.m.

The sponsors are penciling in entertainment schedules from week to week, rather than planning the entire line-up from the start to allow for a more free-flowing organic event.

“We don’t really know what will happen [from week to week], and oddly enough, I find that to be sort of liberating,” says Carpenter.

Neighborhood Concerns

When news first surfaced of the Untapped event about a month ago, a few South Bluffs residents raised concerns about having live music and beer in their usually quiet neighborhood, hence the booking of only acoustic acts.

“The neighbors helped us set the vibe,” says Cates, executive vice-president of brokerage services for Colliers International. “We don’t want people being mad at us for playing drums until 10 p.m.”

Don Hutson, a 20-year South Bluffs resident and the president of the South Bluffs Neighborhood Association, says he believes most residents are now supporting the event.

“We had a few people who were concerned that it would be noisy or there would be problems with them serving food and creating some kind of event we’re not used to,” Hutson says. “But apparently, it’s going to be well-done. And they promised us the music wouldn’t be too loud.”

Deni Reilly, who owns downtown’s Majestic Grille with her husband Patrick, is a South Bluffs resident, and she fully supports the event.

“It’s great that the event is family-friendly so we can wheel our baby over for the acoustic shows,” Reilly says. “We live in the shadow of the brewery, and we’d like to be able to call that beautiful building a neighbor for many years to come.”

South Bluffs neighbors were also initially concerned about parking, especially during the already congested Memphis In May weekends. The sponsors plan to use the grassy lot next to the building for parking on non-Memphis In May days, but since the lot is small, they are encouraging people to bike or trolley to the event.

Much work has been done to convert the littered brewery courtyard into an attractive event space. For four weekends prior to the event, the core group and volunteers from the neighborhood have been cleaning up the courtyard, building tables and a stage from repurposed palettes and reclaimed wood, and creating planters out of old tires to hold plants donated by the Memphis Botanic Garden.

“It’s been affirming that this is an idea people get behind, and it’s also yet another example of what makes this such a great town,” Tauer says. “We put a call out to see who would help us dig out years of dirt and broken glass. They worked their asses off.”

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

Finest Beer You’ve Ever Tasted

Those years of dirt and broken glass tell the story of a time when Memphis was still a young city and apparently home to lots of beer lovers.

On June 2, 1877, the Memphis Brewing Company, at that time run by S. Luehrmann, P. Wahl, and H. Leisse, served the first beer created at what is now known as the Tennessee Brewery, a mammoth Romanesque revival-style building at the corner of Tennessee Street and Butler Avenue.

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

In 1885, a group of German immigrants purchased the brewery for $18,000. Those three — John Wolfang Schorr, Caspar Koehler, and Peter Saussenthaler created the successful Goldcrest 51 beer.

Schorr was born in Bavaria and immigrated to the U.S. with his family at age 11. His father was in the brewing business, and he followed in his footsteps.

Schorr and company created lager beer in the Bavarian German style. Their pilsener (spelled “pilsner” today) was widely loved by Memphis beer drinkers in the late 1800s, so they expanded their operation and created other styles of beer. By 1903, the brewery was the largest in the South. In 1906, they introduced their flagship beer: Goldcrest (the “51” was added later for the 51st anniversary of the brewery).

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

Beer memorabilia collector Kenn Flemmons acquired many of the brewery’s original records, which he used to write a book called Finest Beer You’ve Ever Tasted, a history of the brewery. He found the original recipe for Goldcrest beer in those records, and with the help of some micro-brewing friends, Flemmons pared the recipe down and brewed it.

“It was perfectly good directions on how to make 250 barrels of Goldcrest 51 beer. We had to do some research to find the type of hops they used, and we never did find the exact strain of yeast,” says Flemmons, who will be speaking at the Untapped event and signing copies of his book on Saturday, April 26th, at 12:30 and 3:30 p.m. “But it tastes like a typical American lager from the early 1950s.”

Vintage brewing labels from Tennessee Brewing Co.

Throughout its history, Tennessee Brewing suffered some hard times, especially when Congress passed the 18th Amendment in 1917. The company even went out of business for a time when national Prohibition was the law of the land. Schorr and company attempted to keep the brewery afloat by making a non-alcoholic drink called Nib. But sales plummeted, and the brewery closed in the late 1920s.

Schorr died in 1932, but when Prohibition was repealed in 1933, Schorr’s son Jacob brought the brewery back to life. Business boomed, and the brewery even survived World War II when hops were difficult to come by and other ingredients, such as rice, corn, and yeast, were rationed.

In the end, it was increased competition from big-time beer companies, such as Budweiser and Papst, that eventually killed the Tennessee Brewing Company in 1954.

The brewery’s main building was sold to A. Karchmer and Sons Scrap Metal in 1955, and they occupied the building until 1981. The Tennessee Brewery has remained shuttered ever since.

Sobering Reality

Norman and his family purchased the property in 1999 for $350,000 in an effort to save the neglected building. He poured money into new roofing and stabilized the structure, saving it from demolition.

Since then, plenty of potential buyers have contacted Rasberry, and there have been 14 feasibility studies on potential uses for the building — from condos to a museum to another brewery.

“The [brewery] building is interesting, sexy, and cool, and people are seduced by it initially,” Rasberry says. “That’s been a problem in the past, with regard to actually getting it sold. We have had it under contract numerous times, but it’s very difficult to make the numbers work.”

Rasberry says he’s shown the building at least 500 times to potential buyers.

“I’ve kissed a ton of frogs looking for that princess, and we’re still looking,” he says.

The Tennessee Brewery, circa 1895

But if that princess isn’t found soon, the 130-year-old building may disappear from the Memphis landscape.

Many Memphians have a story about breaking into the building at one point or another. And though most have simply been curiosity-seekers, vandals have done plenty of damage to the aging structure, which makes the cost of renovation even higher.

“People are constantly breaking in, and just replacing a window will cost you $250 to $500. Not to mention that they’ve taken chairs on the new roof and punched holes in the roofing we spent $500,000 on,” Rasberry says.

The building is listed for $1.75 million. But Rasberry says the amount of money a buyer would have to invest to renovate the building and get it up to code is astronomical. If a buyer wanted to renovate the entire building, it would need new elevators for handicap accessibility to all six floors.

The wrought-iron stair railings, often the subject of artsy photographs, would need to be restored or replaced. Rasberry says that might run $200 to $300 a foot. Massive windows on the south side would prove costly to replace.

“There are windows that probably cost $3,000 to $5,000 each. The numbers just go crazy when you calculate what just the glass portion of that building would cost. Those are things that make you go, ‘Wow, how do we make this work?'” Rasberry says.

The Attic

The answer to Rasberry’s question might lie in a “less is more” approach to renovating the building, say the sponsors of Untapped.

While the group organizing the event is sure most Memphians who stop by the event over the next month will be there for “good times,” they’re hoping a few potential buyers might stop in as well. But they’re not specifically targeting uber-wealthy developers with funds to renovate the entire building all at once.

Instead, they’re using Untapped to push what they’re calling “the attic” concept.

“Let’s stop thinking about how you boil the ocean and develop this whole thing at once,” says Hayes of Doug Carpenter & Associates. “Can we see if there are smaller pieces that we can bite off one at a time? Get some people and money flowing and then move on to new pieces. Whether the whole thing gets renovated is kind of irrelevant. This is a new way of thinking about buildings of this size and in this condition.”

They’re hoping a potential buyer will see value in renovating only part of the ground floor — perhaps the courtyard and a few rooms — to use as event space, food truck parking, or some other use that wouldn’t require the entire building rather than the costly renovation that would be required for, say, condos or apartments.

“Those 14 feasibility studies, even when condo prices downtown were going for $200 a foot, weren’t penciling out. If you build out this whole thing, what do you do about parking? That’s a huge cost because you have to build structure parking,” Pacello says. “But if you shrink this thing down and think of it as just a ground floor, you take the need for an elevator out. And that’s a huge cost.”

It’s an idea Rasberry has gotten behind.

“We’ve been discussing just doing the bottom two floors and land-banking the remaining portion, thinking of it more like a two-story house with a large attic. You could use the upper floors for storage space,” Rasberry says.

Since they’re investing their own funds into the Untapped event, Tauer says they’re hoping to turn a bit of a profit. And he hopes that can inspire someone with a vision for a permanent use.

“Preservation doesn’t work unless there’s business rationale. The charitable model of historical preservation isn’t sustainable,” Tauer says. “[We’re hoping] this type of project shows someone out there who can invest significant resources that you don’t have to think of this as a $10 million project. If you can throw a couple hundred thousand dollars into it, think of what you can do based on what we’ve done.”

If Untapped is successful, Cates believes it can be a model for saving other endangered historic properties in Memphis.

“As long as Memphis doesn’t run out of abandoned buildings, you can take this concept somewhere else,” Cates says. “There are so many different things you can do. It doesn’t always have to be a beer garden.”

Memphis Heritage executive director June West agrees. After the news of the brewery’s impending demolition broke a few months ago, Memphis Heritage called a meeting, and this “attic” idea was floated.

“Use what you can and make it work. And that doesn’t mean some marvelous thing won’t happen [with the rest of the building] later,” West says. “There may come a day when you can go past the second floor. I think that’s a really important step for looking at a lot of buildings in Memphis.”

This idea of previtalization isn’t new to Memphis, though it may be the first time its been tried in a single building. The Mayor’s Innovation Delivery Team’s MemFIX events — neighborhood festivals with pop-up shops in unused and abandoned spaces in Crosstown and South Memphis — have already helped to enliven those neighborhoods.

The long-empty row of Crosstown Shoppes on Cleveland served as pop-up shops during the first MemFIX event in November 2012, and today, all of those formerly empty spaces have been filled with art studios, galleries, a hula-hooping studio, and the Hi-Tone music club. With Untapped, the organizers are transferring that idea to a single building.

Whether or not Untapped is the saving grace for the Tennessee Brewery, its organizers are at least glad they’re trying.

Carpenter says, “Our perspective is, if they’re going to tear it down, let’s enjoy it while it’s still here.”

Categories
Cover Feature News

Mmmm, Beer!

Warmer days are ahead and that can only mean one thing: Beers will turn from dark and hearty to light and clean. Winter months belong to the dark beers, like rich and roasty stouts and porters. Spring and summer are for crisp and refreshing ales, and blondes, and more.

Brewers have been planning for and working on their spring and summer beers for months now. It takes a while to brew a beer, and they want to make sure that when the temperature rises and tastes change, you’ll have a beer to match the weather.

In no previous spring in Memphis history have beer drinkers had it so good. Last year was a watershed year for beer here, with three new local breweries and two growler shops opening their doors. So now five local breweries will have brand new beers in bottles, cans, bars, and restaurants all over town: Ghost River, Memphis Made, Wiseacre, High Cotton, and Bosco’s.

For some, this is a patch of untrampled snow, but for others, the volume of new options can be intimidating, especially if they’re new to beer or looking for something beyond the Bud Light rut.

That’s where we come in. Part of the Memphis Flyer’s mission is to educate. So, here we are. There’s a flood of new craft beers out there, all unique and delicious in their own way, and we want to introduce you to many of them. We hope our Spring Beer Guide will help you find a beer you like and that you’ll give it a try the next time you’re out.

There was really only one way to approach this task and we did it so you didn’t have to: We drank them all. The massive beer run required for this project made a frat party look like a temperance rally. The run led to nearly every craft beer hotspot in Memphis — Ghost River Brewing, Madison Growler Shop, Bosco’s, Memphis Made Brewing, The Growler, and Wiseacre Brewing. 

J.C. Youngblood and the good people at Central BBQ allowed us to set up our haul in the back room of the their new downtown location. We unloaded our trunk and lined up some of the nearly dozen growlers, showing off the orange and amber and yellow beers inside. We ate good, hearty, salty foods, which is crucial to this kind of work. We drank (some) water, another crucial trade secret. But mostly, we drank beers.

Justin Fox Burks

“Flyer” Staff at central BBQ enjoying the awesome job of sampling beers

The “we” being Flyer staff writers Toby Sells, Alexandra Pusateri, and Chris Shaw, Music Editor Joe Boone, Associate Editor Bianca Phillips, Film and Television Editor Greg Akers, and Flyer Editor Bruce VanWyngarden. In all, we sampled 16 beers. Most of them are local, but we threw in a few national seasonals to present a more-complete picture of the beers you can find in Memphis at the moment.

The caveat here is that no one on the Flyer staff is a beer expert. Beer fans and beer drinkers, of course, but none of us is anywhere close to being a cicerone. So, our descriptions don’t always follow the lingo. (For example, you probably know what a hot dog tastes like but can you describe the flavors that comprise that taste?) 

Taylor James (l) and Jimmy Randall (r)

But we weren’t flying blind. We had help from two key players in the Memphis beer scene. Big-bearded Taylor James, beer manager for Cash Saver and its Madison Growler Shop, and medium-bearded Jimmy Randall, Ghost River’s head brewer, served as our guides, as we charted the waters of some of the coming season’s new beers. — Toby Sells

Ghost River Golden Ale, Ghost River

This is a perfect of example of a good, hearty beer that I could sit and drink until my wife made me stop. Ghost River’s Golden is not as chunky as their Red. You would rather have this beer with food: It has lower carbonation and less enthusiastic hops content, all for good. I may have tried this beer once at Park Pizza Café, which is why they pour one when I walk in the door. — JB

This Bluff City standby never disappoints and is a great place to start for any beer drinker looking to tap into the local craft market. Ghost River Golden Ale would go great with grilling food in the middle of the day, and the light mix of flavors suggests you could get away with drinking a few in the afternoon without spoiling dinner. — CS

Justin Fox Burks

Ghost River Riverbank Red, Ghost River

I love the balance of this beer. It has a medium body to it, but the tangy hops flavor is not overwhelming. For some reason, people like to make beer that tastes like syrup. This beer counters that aggressive tendency and inhabits a Goldilocks Zone of floral hops and lively carbonation. I could live here. — JB

Kind of Fat-Tire-like. A little hoppy but not IPA hoppy. Seems a little heavy for spring  but carbonation makes it taste very fresh. — BP

The full mouth feel and big citrus and roasted flavor lets you know you’re drinking a beer, by god. Not one of those watery, yellow deals from the major brewers. — TS

Mama’s Little Yella Pils, Oskar Blues

Super light. It’s like sunlight in a glass. — GA

Crisp, light, very drinkable. A good beer with which to introduce someone to craft beer. Grassy notes, tastes like summertime — and tastes like a beer I’d drink after mowing the lawn. — BV

Very light, very drinkable pilsner, perfect for those who prefer quantity over quality. Slightly sour and slightly sweet, this is one you could drink four or five of, and the aluminum-can packaging suggests that it can (and probably should) be shot-gunned. My favorite today. — CS

Bent Note IPA (India Pale Ale), Memphis Made

Sweet, perky IPA with a nice nose. Slightly bitter but pleasant, back­of­the­tongue after­taste. Makes me want to eat some ribs. — BV

Justin Fox Burks

This amounts to a softer approach. Some beer company that sells vile swill used the word “drinkability” in their advertising. I think that’s what Memphis Made was going for here with this good, aromatic beer that’s lighter on the palette and belly. More please. — JB

Malty up front. A little bitter in the back. Perfect for spring drinking and a good introduction to craft beer for anyone looking for one. — TS

Redheaded Alt, Memphis Made

Darker than a spring beer. It’s closer in color to the Ghost River Riverbank Red, but it tastes lighter and has a less aggressive taste. The Redheaded Alt could accompany a meal at an upscale restaurant. — AP

Five stars! It was my favorite beer of the day. It tastes coffee-like from the chicory but no hoppy taste, very smooth and creamy, but it smells like a wet dog, which is okay because I love all things dog. I would drink this beer all night long. — BP

The Readheaded Alt has an interesting smell, and an amazing taste of complex roasted coffee flavors. A remarkably light-tasting beer, considering all of the flavors involved. Extremely smooth tasting, this beer is a testament to the skill of the brewers at Memphis Made. — CS

Belgian IPA, High Cotton

Did I set out to fall in love with a beer that tastes like grapefruit? No, I did not. It just happened. It’s like I woke up in a flower garden with a delicious, lively beer on my palette. Good morning. Between now and July, I expect to down a flat-bed’s worth of this stuff. Don’t touch it. It’s mine. — JB

These guys are known for experimentation. Last summer’s oolong tea saison is an example of this and it was delicious. Belgian IPA isn’t even a category of beer, according to the High Cotton website. But theirs is bold, crisp, and oh, so drinkable. — TS

A very fruity and floral tasting beer that is similar to grapefruit juice in both taste and bitterness. A good beer to drink before your morning jog. — CS

Lightning Rod, Wiseacre 

Very low alcohol? What’s the point? Guess it’s good for camping or something. — BP

Super clear. Little kick at the end. Immensely light, in a good way. Sweat it out and keep drinking and working in the yard. — GA

Session beers don’t get enough respect! This beer is 3.5 percent alcohol by volume. That means you can drink a ton of it without getting completely faced. Lightning Rod’s got that “biscuity” flavor that beer nerds cherish. Perfect for spring and summer. — TS

Azazel Belgian Golden Ale, Wiseacre

Fantastically flavorful. Its light appearance is deceptive, because it packs a punch on taste. Outstanding. A high-gravity beer that I’m compelled to try to make into a session beer. (Don’t try this at home.) — GA

This is a big­boy beer at 10 percent alcohol content. Blood­-orange color, powerful thick, rich, sweet flavor. Great beer to drink on your porch if you don’t plan to leave your porch. — BV

That’s how I say “ale” when I’ve had enough of it. This has blood orange in it. I didn’t want to drink beer with the word “blood” in its name, but I’m glad I did. This has the balance of carbonation and aromatics that incite my beer hoarding tendencies. — JB

Kind of like the high-alcohol brew La Fin Du Monde, this beer isn’t for the faint of heart. Full bodied, full taste, and full-alcohol, the Azazel could get you into trouble if you drink more than a few. The blood orange taste is subtle and refined, making for one hell of a tasty beer. — CS

Shaft on Draft, Boscos

Familiar tasting. Brought back memories of high school. Not complicated or particularly memorable — like my sophomore year. — BV

This fun, Staxtacular-themed beer from Boscos has nailed malt liquor. The flavor isn’t sharp, and this beer could even be somewhere like Alex’s Tavern during a late night. — AP

Sweet! Love this high-class version of malt liquor. Reminds me of my early 20s. I’d brown bag the shit out of this. — BP

Shaft on Draft tastes a lot like Colt-45, which might be a novel throwback for some, but for those of us who spent our college years playing Edward 40-hands, this Boscos brew might recall memories that were better off forgotten. — CS

10-Year IPA, Yazoo

If you drink enough Nashville beer, the pink elephants start reciting Bible verses. I wish I hadn’t done the spit-take when they said it was from Nashville, because that was some pretty delicious beer that I aerosolized. It also has that grapefruit-hops thing going on. The low carbonation kept it from being my favorite. Thank the Lord. — JB

Justin Fox Burks

I’m a hop head. The bitterer the betterer. This stuff has been out for a few months now and is on a limited-edition run. So, I’m drinking it like it won’t be here tomorrow. It’s bitter but it doesn’t turn your mouth inside out. It’s clean and smooth and I can (and will) drink it all day. — TS

Citrus leaps out of the glass. I do like it. It’s from Nashville, so of course it’s a “White” IPA. — GA

Strawberry Harvest Lager, Abita

A breakfast beer. This beer signals springtime like a hipster version of the return of the swallows of San Juan Capistrano. — GA

The Abita Strawberry Harvest lives up to its name, with real Louisiana strawberries used during the brewing process. I usually file things like these under “beer for people who don’t drink beer,” but Abita may have finally persuaded me to try more fruit-infused brews. — CS

Abita Strawberry arrives just before the trees and flowers bud. I drink exactly one of these every year. If that helps spring get here just a little quicker, I do what I can to help. — TS

Restoration Pale Ale, Abita

Brewed to help victims of Hurricane Katrina, this ale benefits an amazing cause, and tastes pretty amazing, too. This golden ale has a rich body and mild bitterness, meaning it can be drunk pretty much anytime — which it should be, as each six-pack sold helps the Katrina Relief Effort. — CS

Same beer as the one Huey’s serves as Gold Nugget. An accessible beer for the cautious. — GA

I am an Abita fan. This is a great cause (for what remains a great need) and a great beer. It’s not plowing any new ground, but you could do much worse than sipping this slightly hoppy, totally accessible beer in your backyard. — TS

Berry Mardi Gras, Madison Growler Shop

This concoction from the Madison Growler Shop is my favorite in this bunch — three-fourths Abita Purple Haze, one-fourth Lindemans Raspberry Lambic, four-fourths amazing. Berry-smelling and sweet-tasting — could be a party favorite for Mardi Gras, satisfying even those who have sworn off beer. — AP

Excellent flavor. Like a rich man’s Boone’s Farm. — GA

Sweet, tangy, rose-colored Great mouth feel. Goes down easy. Probably too easy. — BV

Pistil, Magic Hat

Much better than some of the other hoppy IPA-like beers we tasted. This has the right balance of hops and maltiness. — BP

The packaging might make it seem fruity, but the Pistil is a serious beer with a light but complex taste. Seems ideal for drinking outdoors. – CS.

Spring Blonde, New Belgium

Has a hint of sweetness, enough that it could be the beer of choice at a garden or spring party. — AP

Brings to mind the great Belgium blonde beers, with lemon peel and pepper to keep things interesting. It’s not too malty or too sweet, as many Blonde ales can be. A great beer to hit the trails with this spring. — CS