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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Wok’n in Memphis Launches Online Specialty Store

Spencer Coplan began his Wok’n in Memphis restaurant as a pop-up in 2017. For the past two years, he’s been serving his nontraditional take on Chinese food at Puck Food Hall.

Well, Coplan started something new: Wok’n in Pickle Co.

“It’s our side hustle project from Wok’n in Memphis,” Coplan says. “We open to the public Thursday, July 25th. It is an online grocery store that sells specialty provisions and products we make in-house using local ingredients.”

He’s making shiso (a plant that’s in the basil family) vinegar. It has a “floral and earthy” flavor that is perfect for salads. And, Coplan says, “A couple of dashes go well in a cocktail.”

They bought a whiskey barrel to make aged soy sauce. “It sits in the whiskey barrel for three months, and then it gets chocolatey and oak notes. And we add umami to the soy sauce. It’s a great marinade for meats or [to put] a dash of it in a rice bowl or on noodles.”

He’s also making “kimchi pickles of all varieties” and flavored oils.

Kimchi is “a Korean fermented pickle condiment. We put it in fried rice. We stuff it in dumplings. The juice is really nice and pungent. And it goes well in my Bloody Mary mix.”

The oils include garlic chili oil and coriander oil. They also make a spicy chili condiment, which is made of fried garlic and shallots, chili flakes, and sesame seeds. “That goes in all of our dumplings.”

Some of these are Coplan’s products that have been around for a while. “We’ve been making them for a long time just for us. Why not bottle and sell them?”

They’re using “all Rolling Along Farms produce out of Memphis. We’ve got cucumbers, carrots, banana peppers, green beans, peas. And then we’re making cabbage kimchi and carrot kimchi.”

Coplan created all the recipes from “trial and error. Lots of error.”

They began with the kimchi. “We’ve always done kimchi. We started selling that probably around February in 16-ounce deli cups. It kind of took off. People really enjoyed it. I thought, ‘Why not bottle and sell other items?'”

The items will be available at the restaurant and online at wokn-in-memphis.square.site.

Wok’n in Pickle Co. came into being because of the pandemic, Coplan says. “A lot of the stuff came from the fact we were really slow. I didn’t know what people were going to do. We had a lot of leftover product, and we didn’t want it to go bad. So we started preserving it in different capacities.”

Everything is made at Puck Food Hall. “We’ve got some new peach hot sauce coming out now. And we’re thinking down the road we’d like to package and sell our dumplings in the frozen variety. So you can take them home and steam them, fry them, boil them. Any way you please.”

They currently are offering about 15 products, Coplan says. “And we plan on growing from there. Add dumplings; maybe we’ll jar up some sauces we make. Things like that.”

Wok’n in Pickle Co. is “my idea of how to provide a few things for people Downtown who want to buy some specialty groceries.”

During the quarantine, Coplan says there were “a lot of late nights of bottling hot sauce and chili oil and jarring things.”

Wok’n in Memphis has been open for takeout and delivery, but now customers can eat inside Puck Food Hall. “During those times, we started focusing on other outlets of income so we could be open doing takeout and delivery or half capacity. I thought another way of making an income is this side hustle.”

His restaurant is open Thursday through Sunday.

“The General Tso’s Chicken is still our fan favorite,” Coplan says. “It’s just the tangy sauce tossed with crispy chicken served over rice. It’s our bread and butter.”

Wok’n in Memphis is in Puck Food Hall at 409 S. Main; (901) 949-4887, wokninmemphis.com.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Wok-and-Roll

Food — in one form or another — has always been a part of Spencer Coplan’s life.

“Right from the get-go, food was my thing,” says Coplan, 28. “My parents say that, as a child, I used to play with the cups and stuff in the bathtub, and I would put on my own little cooking show. I’m sure I made ‘spinach’ and other vegetables and maybe baked a ‘cake’ or what have you.”

Coplan now is owner of Wok’n in Memphis, a pop-up restaurant that serves Coplan’s non-traditional take on Chinese food. Locations include Saturday at the Cooper-Young Farmers’ Market and the second Sunday of each month at Porcellino’s Craft Butcher.

In addition to bathtub cuisine, Coplan was fascinated with food in general. “My parents would take me out to eat as a child, and I’d get rambunctious and restless,” he says. “They would just pick me up, and the closer I got to the kitchen, the more I’d calm down. When they would take me out to eat, they had to take me over to the window so I could see the kitchen and, apparently, I’d stop crying.”

Michael Donahue

Spencer Coplan

When he was 15, Coplan got a garde manger job at a restaurant. He liked the “instant gratification” of making something and a guest enjoying it. He was “a 15 year old who couldn’t do well in school and was always told ‘No,’ and ‘This is wrong,’ and ‘This is not how you’re supposed to do it.’

“And I never really was good at math or grammar, geography, things like that,” says Coplan. “So, to have someone say, ‘That salad looks really good,’ was kind of helpful to me as a teenager. To be like, ‘I can do something and not be scolded for it.'”

Coplan briefly went to culinary school for a year at Johnson & Wales University in Providence. “But I felt I could learn faster getting paid at a restaurant than paying lots of money to learn at a school.”

He got a job working for Tom Douglas at Etta’s Seafood in Seattle. Every year or so, Coplan changed jobs. He helped open RN74 for Michael Mina and Le Petiti Cochon, a little offal restaurant. He also worked at John Sundstrom’s Lark restaurant.

“I don’t know if it just comes easy to me, but I can understand flavors. Something about food really calms down my anxious brain.”

Coplan moved to Memphis after Teach for America placed his girlfriend, Jordan Ayers, in Memphis. “I said, ‘Well, I’m a cook. I can go anywhere.'”

His friend told him Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen was one of the top restaurants in Memphis. “I like pretentious fine dining because my first job was pretentious fine dining. I’ve always done it. I like the tweezers. I like the big white plates. The small amount of food.”

Coplan got a job at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, where he began experimenting with his own style of Chinese food.

He’s captivated by Asian food. “I spent a lot of my after hours in [Asian] restaurants in Seattle. I would go eat late night Chinese food or ramen or Korean food and really liked that kind of food.”

Coplan’s expertise in Chinese cooking was a result of “a lot of cookbooks and a lot of time messing around making staff meals for my colleagues. Just kind of being like, ‘Well, how does this taste? Does this taste like General Tso’s chicken?'”

But he doesn’t want his Asian food to be made exactly like Asian cooks make it. “I don’t want to be authentic. I want the ketchup, the sugar, lots of hoisin sauce. And not authentic Chinese food.”

Americanizing it? “Definitely,” he says. “I have no problem admitting that.”

For instance, instead of chilis and other fancier ingredients, the sauce in Coplan’s General Tso’s chicken includes “orange juice and sugar and ketchup and hoisin sauce.”

He wanted to “open up something that is cheap and casual and something that is accessible to everyone. Everyone knows what fried rice is. Everyone knows what beef and broccoli is.”

Coplan indulges his love for white tablecloth cooking by working a few nights a week at The Gray Canary. His goal is to one day open a bar that sells Chinese food. “Like Slider Inn. Just the same except instead of sliders, beef and broccoli and such.”

So, do people think Coplan is Asian? “Well, I have a Vietnamese man that works with me. And now we make the joke if anyone asks, ‘He’s Spencer.'”

Vegetarian Mapo Tofu from Michael Donahue on Vimeo.

Wok-and-Roll

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Food & Drink Hungry Memphis

Wok’n in Memphis Pop Up Sunday


Wok’n in Memphis
will make its Memphis debut on Sunday at Porcellino’s. Its first go was in Seattle.

Wait … what?

Wok’n’s Spencer Coplan is from Seattle. He moved to Memphis a little over a year ago with his girlfriend who is a teacher with Teach for America.

Coplan’s background is in fine dining. He worked for Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen. But, he says, “I’ve always had this love for Asian food, especially Chinese food.”

We’re talking the cheap, feed-the-masses Chinese food — beef broccoli, crab rangoon, orange chicken, and the like.

Coplan says his version is with “better quality ingredients, elevated but not in any way pretentious.”

Sunday’s dinner is $20 per person and includes an appetizer. Drinks can be purchased through Porcellino’s.

Here’s the menu:

Vegetable Eggrolls
Pork Dumplings
Sichuan Eggplant

Fried Brussel Sprouts with Chinese Sausage

Entrée
(select one)

General Tso’s Chicken
Beef & Broccoli
Kung Pao Shrimp
Mapo Tofu
Sweet & Sour Pork

Sides
(select one)
Steamed Rice
Veggie Lo Mein
Egg Fried Rice

Coplan says he’s in the “getting off the ground” stage. He does catering and he’s working on an upcoming pop up at the Cove.

To purchase tickets, go to www.wokninmemphis.com.