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A Whole New 901

Did you read about that cool thing happening in Memphis? We’re sure you probably did somewhere (maybe here), but did you actually go out and do the thing? No? That’s all right, we get it. Routines are important. They provide a warm blanket of security and reliability in what’s been a chaotic couple of years.

But there are just so many cool things happening in Memphis, and so many other cool things to see. And you’ll feel much better for having experienced them, we promise. So instead of reinventing yourself for the new year, make an effort to step outside and see some of the new experiences our city has in store. Our reporters did that, looking at new ways to interact with the Mid-South in both personal and professional capacities.

Let the Sun Shine

Reporters don’t clap.

Impartiality is the heart of what we do. I’ve never given to a political campaign or posted a candidate’s sign in my yard. I’ve never sought a board seat or even been loud and proud about any nonprofit. If I had to cover them later, my impartiality would be in question and I couldn’t do my job.

But there is one issue reporters can get behind without question: transparency. Sharing information with the public (and for the public good) is what we do. Bringing light to facts is why the Tennessee Open Meetings Act is sometimes called The Sunshine Law. It’s also why The Washington Post adopted its first-ever slogan in 2017: “Democracy dies in darkness.”

In this analogy, Memphis is pretty dark now. The process to get public information now is so broken that we might as well not even have a system at all. Getting public records takes months. Getting an interview with city administration officials (especially with the Memphis Police Department) is nigh on impossible. If you have a question about an important issue, you get a bland statement instead and should be happy about it.

I’ve whined about this for ages. That’s not a good look.

Next year, I’ll work to put my complaints into action. There are numerous groups I can support as a reporter, the Tennessee Coalition for Open Government, for one. I can also continue to file open records requests and get peskier in my media requests of public officials.

Reporters don’t clap. They should push. And I aim to do just that.

Toby Sells

T.O. Fuller State Park (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

Memphis Road Trips!

I made a recent foray to T.O. Fuller State Park, which has great walking trails and natural areas spread over the hilly terrain of a former golf course and environs. Afterwards, on a whim, I started driving south from the park on Boxtown Road, and when I reached Sewanee Road, I just kept driving south. It was a route I hadn’t driven before and it took me through Boxtown and some interesting, ruralish parts of the city we’d never imagined existed.

It got me thinking about how many parts of the city I’d never seen, and how easy it is to just take a “road trip” without leaving the city. If you live in Midtown, venture out of your comfort zone and take Jackson Avenue north to Egypt Central and turn right, then turn right on New Brownsville Road, which soon becomes Old Brownsville Road, which takes you through some parts of “suburbia” you probably never knew existed.

Here’s another good one: Quince from East Memphis to Winchester. Also, Chelsea Avenue, from north of Downtown to the outer I-240 loop is a very interesting drive. And don’t sleep on Warford Street. Take it north off of Jackson until it turns into New Allen Road and from there goes deep into the north Memphis hinterlands.

Explore Memphis! It will open your eyes — and kill a couple of hours.

— Bruce VanWyngarden

Get a makeover from one of Memphis’ beauty professionals. (Photo: Kayla Frazier)

Glam Up

Some of my most formative memories involved all things glitz and glamor. My parents regularly treated me to silk presses at the hair shop, and I earned my first authentic Hannah Montana wig after a Libby Lu makeover at the mall.

I grew up during the peak of the beauty guru phase on YouTube. Before influencers condensed their hours-long beauty routines into bite-sized videos on TikTok, we were treated to in-depth videos helping us to perfect bold cut creases and mermaid wand curls. With this being said, I mastered the art of doing my own makeup, as well as a few other beauty-related things pretty young.

It’s a habit that I’ve practiced since I was 14, and 10 years later I’ll still opt to try my own eyelash extensions or blowouts. It’s mostly out of convenience, but recently I’ve been enamored by the immense amount of talent in the beauty community in Memphis. While it’s easy to look up a quick DIY video, it’s also nice to be pampered and let the professionals handle it.

For the new year, I’m hoping to have more beauty services done by local artists and professionals.

“We have so many talented and professional people who love what they do in our community,” says Kayla Frazier, a local makeup artist in Memphis.

Whether it’s a trim from A Natural Affair Beauty Lounge or a makeup look perfected by Frazier, I’m looking to leave my beauty needs in the hands of Memphis’ top professionals.

— Kailynn Johnson

Become the next pinball wizard at Crosstown’s Flipside. (Photo: Chris Mccoy)

Play Some Games

The music was perfect as we entered Flipside, Crosstown’s pinball bar. The jukebox was playing “Rebel Yell” by Billy Idol, an anthem from the golden age of coin-op arcades, 1983.

During the pandemic, my wife LJ and I spent many hours playing simulated pinball on our iPad. When Flipside opened, we wanted to get back to the real thing. Flipside is part of a trend of places that are more than just watering holes, offering games to accompany your pizza and beer. With a Black Lodge membership, you can munch on totchoes while you play any console game from the last 30 years or take a whirl on their vintage cabinets. (I recommend CarnEvil, the scary-clown-blasting queen of the light gun games.) Nerd Alert, a classic video game arcade, recently announced they were moving from Cooper-Young to Collierville so they could expand and add more games.

Flipside is all about pinball. On a typical winter evening, families, teenagers, and grown-ups tried their hands at classic machines like The Six Million Dollar Man from 1977, and those of more recent vintage, like the much-in-demand Foo Fighters table. I got distracted by constructing the perfect arcade playlist at the jukebox, including Rush’s “Tom Sawyer,” Soft Cell’s “Tainted Love,” and Madonna’s “Get Into the Groove,” while LJ fed tokens to the whirring, clanging machines. Turns out, playing real pinball, with all of its imperfections and foibles, is different from simulated ball physics on an ideal surface.

But with a Gotta Get Up to Get Down in the drink holster, pinball is still a blast, no matter now bad you are at it.

Chris McCoy

Step outside and meet your friendly tree neighbors. (Photo: Alex Greene)

Get to Know Your Tree Neighbors

One simple, homespun way to put a new spin on the old familiar routines is to look for signs of a parallel universe coexisting with your perceived world. Suggested starting point: the secret lives of trees. Just outside your door there awaits (for most of us) a strange new world, complete with altered time scales, coded messages, and otherworldly beauty. You only need to look up, then recall that a tree’s roots grow as deep as its branches grow high. A root system really is a parallel universe, right under our noses.

Furthermore, according to authors like Suzanne Simard or Peter Wohlleben, all these limbed giants that make life in Memphis what it is, from summer shade to ice hazards, are talking to each other down there. Threads of fungi connect the roots of trees over acres, sending nutrients, hormones, and even alarm signals from tree to tree in sprawling interactive networks. Maybe it’s time we at least learn these talkative neighbors’ names.

Pair that with ecologist Doug Tallamy’s concept of a “homegrown national park,” composed of the sum total of all our yards, trees, and gardens laid out in a patchwork across America. It’s really a call to our imaginations, to envision each yard as a mere segment in a gigantic ecosystem, humming with communications between its species — a veritable Tree Nation. No wonder so many of our arborists, neighborhood arboretum enthusiasts, or followers of the Tennessee Urban Forestry Council have that special smile of those who glimpse the invisible threads of life in our midst.

Alex Greene

No New Year’s resolutions required for this good boy, he claims. (Photo: Abigail Morici)

Who Let the Dog Out?

My mother is embarrassed of me. Plain and simple. She says she can’t bring me anywhere. Could it be the fact that I jump on nearly everyone I meet? Or that I pee when I’m excited to see people? Or that I pull and pull and pull on my leash? These are just mere quirks, dear mother. That’s what I told her the day I convinced her to (finally) bring me with her to Crosstown Concourse, my puppy eyes finally working. I’m a charmer, what can I say?

We started at Madison Pharmacy, an errand for her. I jumped on the counter, simply to say my hellos (also in hopes that there might be some treats, alas there were none). We then trotted past the ladies getting their nails done and I sat in one of the chairs outside the Gloss Nail Bar, for attention of course. I got some oohs and aahs, and the ladies asked if I wanted to join them. But I wasn’t falling for any tricks. No one will ever touch my nails. (Hear that?)

And then we walked and walked to the red staircase, and I wanted to go upstairs and my mom said no because she was scared I’d pee on the artwork in Crosstown Arts. She has no faith in me, I tell you. I let some people pet me and I was so good, so pretty. Even some kids pet me, and they made fun of my name. (And my mom just let them! She even agreed that my name is silly, and I’m over here like, woman, you were the one who named me Blobby. Blobby?!)

And then — oh this is the best part — we got MemPops — well, I got MemPops. I got a Pupsicle. I ate it in, like, four seconds. Count it: One. Two. Three. Four. And bam. Gone. Did I chew? No one will know. But I know that I’m going to be begging to go to more dog-friendly places in 2024. It’s going to be the year of Blobby in Memphis. — Blobby

Our writer pictured at Zoo Lights just moments before wipeout. (Photo: Courtnee Wall)

Skater Boy

My after-work routine has turned into a bit of a predictable cycle once I turn off the computer monitor at my remote “office.” Perhaps the TV might click on to replay the day’s soccer highlights or to host a quick play session of Mario Kart. Maybe there will be a restaurant visit or a stop at a brewery (probably Wiseacre HQ or Crosstown) followed by a coerced viewing of Big Brother on Paramount+ (you know who you are). It can all feel a bit rote at times, so I began to think of other things to do that could spark just a little extra bit of joy.

Thoughts quickly turned to some of the activities that 10-year-old me enjoyed doing, and in the spirit of the cold winter season, I slapped on a pair of skates and found myself stumbling about the miniature ice rink at the Memphis Zoo Lights.

As I swished (struggled) across the ice like a Mid-South Michelle Kwan, it felt almost freeing during the moments I wasn’t sticking my blade into the ground, crashing into the wall, or trying to avoid other relapsed ice skaters. In need of a new hobby to scatter the winter doldrums, I expect to lace up at least a couple more times, my own mortality be damned. The rink and dazzling lights at AutoZone Park’s Deck the Diamond event made for a pleasant Downtown holiday experience, while I’ve heard the Mid South Ice House is the best year-round option to sharpen my blades of glory. For now, this skater boy is bidding “see you later, boy,” to 2023.

— Samuel X. Cicci

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Day Trippin’: Cabin Fever? Get Away Without Going too Far

After a year of quarantines, shutdowns, and cabin fever, a little road trip can really cure a vacation itch — without the time off from work, hotel fees, plane tickets, etc. that often accompany an actual vacation. With several options within a few short hours of the city limits, it’s easy to hop in the car, see the sights, unplug, and have some fun — and even be back home by sundown.

Calico Rock, Arkansas

My status as an angler is amateur at best, but when I was younger, my family used to make pilgrimages to Calico Rock in Izard County, Arkansas, to fish for trout in the White River. I’ve done well enough with lures and live bait, from the boat and from the shore, but I’ve never made the leap into the die-hard world of flyfishing. Whether I caught much or not, though, it was some of the most fun I can remember having.

As I recall it, as the water swirls around your rubber waders or the bow of your boat, it’s cold — piercingly so. The White River, fed from the depths of Beaver Lake, is famously frigid. It’s the kind of shocking chill that will jolt you awake, driving thoughts of the city and the job from your mind. All the better to tune into the quiet rhythms of the Natural State.

Jesse Davis

Jenkins Fishing Service on the White River

I made the three-hour trip to Calico Rock myself just a few weeks ago. Fishing season had not yet started back up, but I enjoyed myself hiking along the banks of the meandering Calico Creek. I snapped a few photos, thought about fishing trips of old and those still to come, and enjoyed the clean, crisp, cool air.

Of course, the adventurous Mid-Southerner venturing into the Arkansas wilds need not stop at Calico Rock. The Little Red River and the Black River are known to be excellent fishing spots as well; and Lake Ouachita, a jewel of a lake, is hard to beat for camping, hiking, and canoeing. Or, for those less sporty types, and I’m speaking from experience now, just kick back by the campfire with a good book and a bottle of bourbon and enjoy the scenery. — Jesse Davis

Taylor, Mississippi

The rustic village of Taylor is, as Faulkner called it, “a postage stamp of native soil.” But it’s an interesting stamp, and reputedly the only real Mississippi town name that Faulkner allowed into his novels. It’s also a nice day-trip destination — about 90 minutes from Memphis — offering a melange of vintage small-town structures, local art galleries, and memorable food, both plain and fancy.

The story goes that in the 1970s, when real estate prices started rising in Oxford, a number of painters, potters, musicians, and other refugees moved to Taylor, giving it a cachet of bohemia that still remains. The weathered and largely unrestored main thoroughfare also remains, with a few plank buildings and a rustic gas pump and board sidewalk. You can visit local galleries and shops, drop into Carter’s Store for “dry goods,” and, if you’re willing to hang around on the front porch until a table opens (a pleasant experience, usually), you can eat some of the famous catfish at Taylor Grocery & Restaurant. You can also take it with you if indoor dining is still not an option you’re interested in.

Google Earth

The Plein Air development in Taylor, Mississippi

Google Earth

Carter’s Store

grittaylor.com

Grit

If catfish isn’t your thing, you’re in luck. You can sample some fine Southern fusion cuisine — and maybe an artisanal cocktail or two — at Grit, which is located in the new Plein Air development, not far from Taylor’s main drag. (Which is a very small main drag, for the record.) The homes in Plein Air are classic Southern design, with front porches and lawns, sort of like Seaside in Florida or Memphis’ Harbor Town. It’s a nice neighborhood, and “The Mill” is a popular site for weddings. There are a couple of shopping opportunities in Plein Air, as well. And the drive back can be fun, if you explore the backroads. Which is what Faulkner would recommend. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Reelfoot Lake — Tiptonville, Tennessee

I’m on my vintage Indian Scout with the sun on my back and the wind in my hair. Helmet be damned. The daydream comes to a sudden halt with four words, “Are we there yet?”

I came back to reality driving a 2014 minivan with two “I’m bored” preteens and a “Where are we going again?” septuagenarian.

Earlier at home, my 7- and 9-year-old nieces uttered the words “I’m bored” one too many times. Aunt Juju sprang into action loading everyone in the car for another infamous “crazy aunt” mystery trip. On these trips, I don’t say where we are going; It’s a surprise. Thirty minutes in, someone always asks, “How long until we get there?” I look at my phone and say, “In about when-we-arrive hours.”

Julie Ray

Nature Center, like the recently opened Youth Ninja Course, are open to the public.

The 7-year-old was wearing a tie-dye sweatshirt with Christmas tree pajama pants. Reelfoot Lake in Tiptonville, Tennessee, is about 100 miles through some quaint small towns and, luckily, has a relaxed dress code. Bald eagles, a gorgeous lake, and fried chicken at Boyette’s would be the best bet to fill the void on a cold, overcast day.

Google Maps suggested Highway 14. Not only is this route an extra hour, it’s boring. Best take Highway 51; it’s more entertaining, and the route is only two hours. We missed the bald eagle tour, the park was closing soon, and the kids got hungry hours ago, necessitating a stop at Sonic. No one was hungry for Boyette’s, but we did see eagles and find a Youth Ninja Course — a very scaled-down version of American Ninja Warrior‘s obstacle course. That was a hit.

I’ve been to Reelfoot Lake and Boyette’s before via Highway 51. You’ll just have to take my word that it’s a worthy day trip. Best enjoyed on a vintage Indian Scout. — Julie Ray

Holly Springs, Mississippi

A day trip for me means eating. A trip to Holly Springs, Mississippi, only about an hour from Memphis, ensures lots of good eating. And more.

A must is Phillips Grocery, known for its hamburgers made with secret ingredients. I like to eat on the porch and drink a Nehi grape or orange with my burgers at the restaurant, housed in a circa 1882 saloon. They also have a great chicken sandwich.

Alice McLallen Kerley

Phillips Grocery

Marshall Steakhouse, a massive restaurant owned by Randall Swaney, is a shrine to beef. In summer, catch a show on the outdoor stage. You also can eat outside at one of the many tree-shaded picnic tables.

For fabulous catfish, barbecue, and other cuisine, visit Clancy’s Cafe in Red Banks, 10 minutes from Holly Springs going toward Memphis. Desserts include cakes made by owner Tyler Clancy’s grandmother.

Places to go between eating include the Marshall County Historical Museum, which area Baby Boomers might compare to the old Pink Palace Museum, which was full of everything. This museum encompasses several floors and includes vintage clothing, toys, dolls, quilts, and old farm tools.

The nearby Kate Freeman Clark Art Gallery exclusively features art by the late Holly Springs artist.

Check out the Ida B. Wells-Barnett Museum and Cultural Center of African and African-American History, which highlights worldwide contributions in history, art, and culture.

If you’re an Elvis fan, drive by (it’s not open to the public) Graceland Too, which the late Paul MacLeod once devoted as a shrine to the King.

Venture less than an hour away to Tupelo to see more Elvis. This is where his childhood home is located. And grab something to eat at one of Elvis’ former hangouts, Johnnie’s Drive-In.

Finally, on your way to and/or from Tupelo to Holly Springs, get an extraordinary homemade apple or peach pie at Flick’s Truck Stop in Potts Camp.— Michael Donahue

The Clinton Presidential Museum and Library — Little Rock, Arkansas

Though it has, like other national installations featuring historical government archives, undergone temporary closure, the Clinton Presidential Library and Museum in Little Rock should be on anybody’s future list, and should be generally available soon, given the advent of multiple vaccines and, as of early 2021, intensified anti-COVID policies at all levels of government.

Located just off the first interstate exit at Little Rock, as one heads west on I-40, the library stands in cantilevered splendor on a 30-acre park. Inside, it contains archival collections and research facilities, as well as mementoes galore of the 42nd president’s time in office: photographs and videos of key historical moments and artifacts of Clinton’s travels as chief executive, along with replicas of documents ranging from important treaties to personal correspondence with the likes of Elton John. And yes, a saxophone.

Jackson Baker

at Resolute desk

Visitors have the opportunity to go interactive, sitting at exact replicas of the cabinet table in Clinton’s White House conference room and at the famed Resolute desk in an Oval Office space that models Clinton’s taste and, we learn, has been largely replicated in Joe Biden’s choice of decor. And not just sit; both of these historical spaces are outfitted with easily operated audio-visual reminders of the events, both momentous and personal, that occurred there and can be re-experienced by the visitor.

A lot of history here at one’s beck and call, and close by! — Jackson Baker

Delta Bound

Memphis is lucky to have, right on its doorstep, nothing less than the crucible of some of America’s greatest music. That would be the Mississippi Delta, of course, and for anyone hankering to get out of town, it can be the perfect escape. Thankfully, barreling down Highway 61 (in a convertible, anyone?) is COVID-safe.

Along the way, watch for the signs of the Mississippi Blues Trail (msbluestrail.org), which alert travelers to significant locations in the music’s history. One of the first you’ll see stands in the cemetery where Memphis Minnie is buried, just west of Walls, where she grew up. Others are found near Tunica, Clarksdale has over a half dozen, and that’s just the beginning.

Stopping off to soak in the Delta landscape, while learning blues history, is a glorious escape on a sunny day. But the blues museums along the way are also an option. In one recent trip to see several Delta museums, I had them all to myself. The Delta Blues Museum in Clarksdale, the Grammy Museum in Cleveland, and the B.B. King Museum in Indianola, among others, can provide hours of education and entertainment.

Alex Greene

B.B. King Museum in Indianola

Alex Greene

Robert Johnson’s grave in Greenwood

Alex Greene

Delta Blues Museum

Alex Greene

Hubert Sumlin marker in Greenwood

But there’s more to the Delta than just music. See the current Delta Magazine for a comprehensive guide to public art in the region, from murals to sculpture to architecture. The area is bursting with creativity, as spaces like the Mississippi Arts and Entertainment Experience in Meridian, the Mathews-Sanders Sculpture Garden in Cleveland, or the H.C. Porter Gallery in Vicksburg make abundantly clear.

Meanwhile, those who love non-musical history have plenty to discover, starting with the multi-state Civil Rights Trail (civilrightstrail.com), which has many markers and sites through the Delta. Greenwood sports the Museum of the Mississippi Delta, covering prehistory, Native American life, art, agriculture, and the Civil War.

But beyond such curated experiences, the simple art of walking and exploring can thrive in the Delta, whether it’s taking in the historical downtowns of Clarksdale, Greenwood, or other towns, or — my favorite — exploring cemeteries. To sit beside Robert Johnson’s final resting place outside of Greenwood, as dusk sets in, makes for a day trip that reverberates deep in the soul. — Alex Greene

Wilson, Arkansas

With the redevelopment and building boom going on in Downtown Memphis and other parts of town, you might be forgiven for not looking too far outside the Bluff City Bubble. But if you avert your gaze slightly, you’ll catch a glimpse of a small-city renaissance happening just 45 minutes up I-55.

The town of Wilson, Arkansas, (population hovering just under 1,000) has been reborn over the last decade since the Wilson family sold its land to The Lawrence Group in 2010. The group, which has experience running wineries and vineyards, is revitalizing the former logging and sawmill town into a Delta tourist hotspot.

Courtesy City of Wilson, AR

The Grange at Wilson Gardens

The city’s 21st-century approach is built around the Wilson Wine Experience, which includes frequent six-course thematic dinner events curated by Norbert Mede and Chef Roberto Barth. Set at different historic locations around Wilson, Mede’s keen taste for good vintages meshes superbly with Barth’s unique approach to Delta cooking.

Those with a bit more thirst can focus on one of Wilson’s weekly wine tastings, and easily spend the better part of a day catching some music at The Grange at Wilson Gardens, or diving into the free Hampson Archeological Museum, which contains artifacts of the pre-Colombian people who inhabited the Delta from 1400 to 1650.

Even if wine (and it’s some good wine) isn’t your thing, there’s something for everyone in Wilson, and there’s even more on the horizon. Month by month, the city adds more activities to its roster, including a crawfish festival slated for the end of April. So keep an eye on the calendar; if you need a quick escape, it’s always a good time to visit Wilson. — Samuel X. Cicci

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Music Music Blog

Freakin’ Weekend Six

For the past six years, the collective known as Nashville’s Dead has thrown the pre-SXSW party of the year with their annual Freakin’ Weekend event. The festival boasts some of the biggest names in garage rock (The Black Lips, Jacuzzi Boys and Ty Segall have all played), and also allows some of Nashville’s best local bands to strut their stuff.

The three day, multi-venue festival is a perfect opportunity for Memphians to get acquainted with the burgeoning music scene in Nashville, and with pop-up shops, food trucks and after parties, there’s a lot to take in. Nashville’s Dead recently announced the initial lineup, with a second slew of bands presumably coming soon. Check out the insane video of Jeff The Brotherhood playing Freakin Weekend IV (and the trippy Black Lips footage) to get acquainted with the freak show, then make plans for a road trip to the capital city March 12-14. Oh yeah, if you act fast the three day pass is only $40.00. As always, the festival is dedicated to Nashville’s Dead founder Ben Todd, who passed away in 2013 at the age of 24. 

Freakin’ Weekend Six (2)

Freakin’ Weekend Six

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Sing All Kinds We Recommend

Analog Valley Weekend

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This weekend, The Yalobusha Brewing Company in Water Valley, Mississippi presents Analog Valley, a two day record fair featuring 10,000+ vintage vinyl records for sale. The immense record collection has been growing for decades and a local Mississippian finally decided to open his collection to the public for this two day event.

The festivities will begin on September 20th and go through the 21st at Yalobusha Brewing Company in Water Valley. The record fair will be accompanied with Yalobusha Brewing tours and tastings for guests 21 and over. Food trucks will be onsite along with refreshments for purchase.

Each day will require a separate ticket purchase of $10 per person. For an additional $5, guests can enter the record fair two hours before the general public.