Tag: The Bar-B-Q Shop

The New Normal: Examining the Pandemic’s Lasting Effects on Dining, Remote Work, and the Arts

Post author By Chris McCoy
Post date May 26, 2021

Photo illustration: Justin Fox Burks; Prop Styling and Hand Modeling: Aaron Brame

The COVID-19 pandemic is not over. The Johns Hopkins University of Medicine’s Coronavirus Resource Center, which has been tracking the spread of the disease for more than a year, reports that 165 million people have tested positive for SARS-CoV-2 worldwide; 3.4 million people have died from the disease. The United States has both the most cases, with just over 33 million, and the most deaths, with 588,548. In Shelby County, roughly one in 10 people have been infected, and 1,644 people have died.

The development of COVID vaccines and a massive government push to get “shots in arms” has blunted the spread of the disease. In real-world conditions, mRNA vaccines such as Pfizer and Moderna have been found to reduce an individual’s chance of infection by more than 90 percent. A two-shot dose virtually eliminates the possibility of hospitalization and death.

Vaccine development has been a science success story, but we’re not out of the woods yet. It’s unlikely COVID will ever go away entirely. The virus will go from pandemic to endemic, with flu-like regional outbreaks recurring every year. It will take time to vaccinate the world. Early fears about new virus variants able to evade vaccine-generated antibodies have not materialized, but most experts believe it’s just a matter of time before a new mutation makes a vaccine booster shot necessary.

As restrictions ease with the falling case numbers, the country seems to be crawling back to normal. Interviews with Memphians from different fields impacted by the pandemic reveal how this new normal will be different from the old.

Tamra Patterson (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

Dining In/Out

Tamra Patterson, owner of Chef Tam’s Underground Cafe in the Edge District, was just getting her business off the ground when the pandemic hit. “In February of 2020, we saw such great success, having just relocated from Cooper-Young,” she says. “We were right in the middle of Black Restaurant Week, and we were expecting for that to catapult us to new heights. As you could imagine, we were kind of sucker-punched in March.”

Instead of managing new growth, Patterson found herself facing no good options. “We had to make the really hard call of do we close, or do we do what we ended up doing, which is strictly going to-go?”

The constantly changing health directives made closing the dining room the logical choice. “I didn’t want the yo-yo: You can open but you can only have six people. You can open but you can only have 20 people. I felt like the inconsistency for a customer would be much more detrimental than what was happening.”

Eric Vernon of The Bar-B-Q Shop agrees that dine-out business was the only play available but says a good restaurant is about more than just the food. “At The Bar-B-Q Shop, you come in, you sit down, you stay overtime, and the staff gets to know you. So a lot of what we did was cut right off the bat. We don’t just sell food, you know. It’s an atmosphere thing. I think we went into a little bit of panic mode. I couldn’t worry about atmosphere; I just had to get the food out. So within a three-week, maybe four-week process, we did what normally takes a year to develop. We had to come up with an online system for people to pick up, and we had to do a delivery system, and we had to figure out how to get all these systems to ring up in our kitchen.”

Steve Voss faced the same challenge across the nine Huey’s locations. “We hit the streets as quickly as possible to figure out, how are we going to get food out to our guests efficiently and timely while maintaining the quality? So we went straight into curbside.”

Customers liked picking up food to eat at home, but the learning curve was steep, says Vernon. “We went from people placing orders for ribs and a couple of sandwiches to-go to doing full family orders. People don’t get that it takes longer for us to bag up an order for a family than it does to get it to the table. We had never done to-go orders for seven or eight people, every other time the phone rang. We had people calling to say they’re outside. Well, we’ve got a front door and a back door, so we’re running out to the front, they’re not there, so then we’re running out back!”

Restaurateurs got a crash course in the delivery business. “We’ve had people approach us in the past, wanting us to venture into that area,” Voss says. “We’ve developed some systems with DoorDash and ChowNow, and now it is a tremendous part of our business, but it’s really hard to execute well. It’s like having a whole other department in the building.”

Crosstown Brewing Company (Photo: Justin Fox Burks)

Take-out wasn’t just for restaurants. “We had to shut down the taproom, which was a major source of revenue for our business,” says Crosstown Brewing Company owner Will Goodwin. “But people kept coming, and we made beers available in six-packs. I remember having a stack of beer sitting in the middle of the taproom, and we had a skeleton crew taking pre-orders and running beer out the door to people in cars.”

Goodwin says pandemic-era liquor law changes saved his business. “Beer is kind of hung up in this antiquated, three-tier system where there’s a manufacturer, there’s a distributor, and there’s a retailer.”

The pandemic proved direct sales from brewery to customer is “a new business model that could be sustained. We’re still doing deliveries on Mondays and Tuesdays from the brewery. I’ve got one guy that orders a mixed case of beer every Monday. He’s done it for a year and a half.”

Vernon says his dining room is filling back up, and the take-out business is bustling. After having to cut his staff in half, re-hiring is proving difficult. “Drive down Madison, and there’s a help wanted sign in every restaurant.”

The new normal will likely include both curbside service and increased delivery options, says Voss. “We’ve been very fortunate to have great managers and tremendous support from the community and our wage employees to navigate all this. It’s been a heck of a ride, and we’re still battling every day.”

Out of the Office

For millions of office workers, 2020 meant taking meetings in your Zoom shirt and sweatpants. Kirk Johnston is the founder and executive partner of Vaco, a consulting and staffing firm specializing in technology, finance, accounting, supply chain, and logistics. He says many businesses who were dipping their toes in remote-work technology found themselves shoved into the deep end. “I think a lot of them were just slow to adapt, but now that it’s been proven that people can work remotely and be very effective, companies have been forced to say, ‘Gosh, this does work, and there’s no reason we shouldn’t be more flexible because it makes people more productive when they can do the things they need to do for their family and also get their job done and done well.’”

Just before the pandemic, Memphian Audra Watt started a new job as vice president of a medical device company based in Lebanon, Tennessee. “I lead a marketing organization of individuals all over the country, and we’re a global organization, so we interact with people all over the world,” she says. “We have a lot of folks that already worked remotely. I’d never really worked with remote employees. I’d always been with people, who reported to me and my bosses, in the office. So I was like, this is going to be weird. I had no idea it was going to be the new normal. A month into my new job, everybody started working from home. I was shocked at how productive everybody was! It was like, well, we don’t actually need to all be together. Our productivity just skyrocketed to the point where I was telling people, ‘Hey, you don’t need to work nights and weekends.’”

The experience was an eye-opener. “I don’t see a reason to go back to the office in the full-time capacity we had in the past,” she says.

As vaccinations decrease the danger of an office outbreak, a new hybrid model is likely to take hold. “There’s a very hands-on element to what I do, with product development and product management,” says Watt. “Being able to touch and feel, and look at prototypes, and talk to people on the line is super critical. But I don’t do that every day. If I look back at my time in the office, a lot of it was spent on the phone. … I think one of the most compelling things I realized is how much time I spent traveling to get to in-person meetings, which probably could have been accomplished virtually.”

Like most teachers, John Rash, assistant professor at the Center for the Study of Southern Culture at the University of Mississippi, spent the last year and a half teaching remotely. “I would say it went pretty well for certain areas,” he says. “There were definitely some areas where it was not as good as in person, but there’re some areas that actually worked better. … I have one class I teach nearly every semester with a hundred students in it. It’s just not possible to address their questions and individual concerns during class time. A lot of those things that might take two or three back-and-forth emails, now, we can jump on Zoom and get it settled in four or five minutes. I feel like I’ve had a lot more contact with students over the past year than I did previously, just because of that accessibility that’s available through Zoom.”

Johnston says some form of remote work is here to stay. “The question is going to be, what is the best model for each individual company and each individual person? I think both are going to have to be flexible. Those companies that are just saying, ‘No, we’re going back eight-to-five, five days a week,’ will have a hard time recruiting people. And I think those people who are dogmatic and say, ‘I will only work remotely,’ will not find themselves in the best company or the best position. There’s going to be some kind of a compromise on both sides.”

The Show Must Go On

Amy LaVere and Will Sexton were touring in support of two new albums when COVID shut the country down. “We had gigs just falling away off the calendar,” LaVere says. “We had one big one left in Brooklyn, and it canceled because they shut the city down.”

On the terrifying drive back to Memphis, they stocked up on rice and beans and prepared to hunker down indefinitely. “What will become of us? Is this the end of mankind?”

LaVere and Sexton were among the first Memphis musicians to try streaming shows as an alternative to live gigs. “We just had to figure out a way to try to make a living, but it didn’t really work,” she says. “For the first couple of months, we were doing one a week, and people were very, very generous and sweet to us. It helped us get back on our feet. But then, it just became so saturated, and there were so many people doing what we were doing, that we really just kept at it to keep our craft up. It was a thing to do every week to just not lose your mind.”

Eventually, LaVere and Sexton started playing private, socially distanced shows in their driveway. “I hated the livestream so much,” she says. “It’s really difficult to perform to nobody.”

Zac Ives says the pandemic accelerated changes at Goner Records. “We were already working on a website and converting everything over to a more functional, online way to sell records. We’ve been living in the ’90s for the majority of our lifetime as a company online, and for a while that was fun and it worked. But we went ahead and launched the site we had been working on about a month before it was ready. That was our lifeline.”

Applying for a PPP loan and emergency grants forced Ives to re-examine long-standing assumptions. “The grants made us pull a bunch of different numbers and look at things differently,” Ives says. “My biggest takeaway from all of this is that it forced everybody to get way more creative, and way more flexible with how their business works.

“We were pushing people online to shop, but we also started thinking, if there are no shows, how can we get these records out when the bands can’t tour with them? How do you put stuff in front of people? Our solution was Goner TV.”

Goner had already been livestreaming their annual Gonerfest weekends, but after participating in a streaming festival over Memorial Day weekend 2020, Ives says they realized the bi-weekly show needed to be more than music. “The idea was sort of like the public-access cable shows we used to pass around on VHS tapes,” he says. “People would do all kinds of crazy stuff.”

Filmed on phones and laptops and streaming on Twitch and YouTube, the typical Goner TV episode includes live performances, music videos, comedy, drag queen tarot card readings, puppet shows, and even cooking and cocktail demonstrations. “We recognized that the power of all of this was that there were all these other talented people around who wanted to try to do stuff together. And it really did kind of bring that community back together. We’d get done with these things and be like, ‘Wow, how’d we pull that off?’”

In August 2020, Gretchen McLennon became the CEO of Ballet Memphis. “I think from a strategic standpoint, it made coming into leadership a little more compelling because all the rules go out the window in a global pandemic,” she says. “Dorothy Gunther Pugh left a wonderful legacy. Ballet is a very traditional art form, but it’s time to pivot, and the world was in the midst of a pivot. We just didn’t know where we were going.”

With grants and a PPP loan keeping dancers on staff, Ballet Memphis started streaming shows as an outreach, including an elaborate holiday production of The Nutcracker. Learning a new medium on the fly was difficult, but rewarding. “We had to be thoughtful about the moment in time we were in,” she says. “We successfully filmed over the course of two weeks, but we had to do daily testing of the crew in our professional company and all the staff that was going to be on set. … We wanted that to be a gift to the city of Memphis.”

Held last October, the 2020 Indie Memphis Film Festival was a hybrid of drive-in screenings and streaming offerings. “It was a huge success, without a doubt,” says Director of Artist Development Joseph Carr. “There was no existing infrastructure because no one was doing this prior to the pandemic. It was actually very frowned upon in the film festival world to have films online. Everybody kind of stepped up and rallied around each other in the community and really created a sense that we can all learn from each other. It brought a lot of the festivals much closer together.”

Carr says the virtual format allowed Indie Memphis to expand its audience. “We had filmmakers from as far away as South Korea and Jerusalem, but also we had audiences from those regions. That is impossible to get in any other way.”

Melanie Addington is one of very few people who have led two film festivals during the pandemic. The 2020 Oxford Film Festival was one of the first to go virtual, and by the time 2021 rolled around, the winter wave had subsided enough to allow for some limited in-person and outdoor screenings. “It was, for so many people, literally the first time they’ve been around other people again. And so all those awkward post-vaccine conversations. Like, do we hug? We don’t know what to do with each other anymore when we’re physically in the same space.”

Addington just accepted a new position as director of the Tallgrass Film Festival in Kansas, which means she will be throwing her third pandemic-era festival this fall. “A lot of us have learned there’s a larger market out there who can’t just drop everything for five days and watch a hundred movies. It’s going to allow for a bigger audience.”

McLennon says Ballet Memphis has a full, in-person season planned next year and sees a future for streaming shows. “In our virtual content, we can be more exploratory at low-risk to see, does it resonate? Does it work?”

LaVere sees signs of life in the live music world. “Who knows what the future will hold in the winter, but we’re full steam ahead right now. My calendar is filling up. It seems like every day, the phone is ringing with a new show.”

Tags Amy Lavere, Audra Watt, Chef Tam's Underground Cafe, COVID, Crosstown Brewing, Eric Vernon, Gretchen McLennon, Huey's, John Rash, Joseph Carr, Kirk Johnston, Memphis, Steve Voss, Tamera Patterson, The Bar-B-Q Shop, The New Normal, Will Goodwin, Zac Ives

Cover Feature News

Delivering the Goods

Post author By Flyer Staff
Post date April 15, 2020

Last week on a Memphis Twitter thread, the subject of restaurant takeout and delivery options arose. People began name-checking dining options and dishes and service they’d tried and liked. I suggested they should begin tweeting their best experiences, and in the process, give a shout-out to local restaurants who were trying to survive in these trying times. It went — pardon the expression — viral, with dozens of Memphians tweeting out their favorites over the course of a couple days.

We decided to use that spontaneous outpouring of support and love for our local restaurant community as the basis for this story — to offer some views from the trenches and find out how some of your favorite eateries are coping. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Pete & Sam’s

I long to sit in one of those big booths at Pete & Sam’s, beneath the enlarged photos of founder Sam Bomarito, his sister Vita Gattuso, and others involved in one way or the other with the popular restaurant.

For now, the meals I love still are available, but they’re takeout only. The restaurant is offering lunch and dinner curbside pickup, says Michael Bomarito. “We’ve got a kiosk out there,” he says. “A person sitting out there between 4 p.m. and 8 p.m. with a credit card reader.”

Pete & Sam’s also delivers all over, whether it’s Memphis, Bartlett, or Germantown, Bomarito says. “We’re coming to you. So that’s the end of that. We’ve got three or four drivers every day. We start at noon. Then we deliver all day until 8 p.m. during the week and 9 p.m. on Fridays. Back to 8 p.m. Sundays.”

As for the food, Bomarito says, “We’re pretty much doing 90 percent of the menu. A couple of things we pulled off. They weren’t big sellers. We didn’t want food to go to waste.” Available items include their frozen lasagna that serves three and frozen ravioli meat sauce. “We have people calling from all over the country wanting us to ship our stuff.”

The take-and-bake frozen pizzas are their hottest item, Bomarito says. You can build your own pizza by adding spinach or whatever topping you want. The pizzas are covered with shrink wrap at the restaurant, the Pete & Sam’s logo is added, and the pizza is ready to go. The frozen pizzas have been available over a year, but, Bomarito says, “The last couple of weeks people went crazy stocking up their freezer.” — Michael Donahue

3886 Park, (901) 458-0694, peteandsams.com

R.P. Tracks

“Tracks has never closed,” says Mary Laws, who, with her husband Bernard, has owned the beloved University of Memphis spot for the past five years. She’s worked there for 16. “Even when they did a huge remodel in 2000, Rick and Peter [the former owners] never closed.”

R.P. Tracks has been a haven for college-goers’ study breaks and professors’ and locals’ beer meet-ups for more than 30 years (33 in December, according to Mary).

Mary Laws

R.P. Tracks bartender Jeremy Allen delivers food curbside.

“Tracks has always been here for the people in this neighborhood and the city,” she says, noting the many regulars who’ve come in for burgers and nachos or sat at the bar for conversation through the decades. “I thought, even if they can’t come in, at least they know they can still get their favorite food. They’re still seeing the bartenders who have been waiting on them for years. It’s just that small interaction, I think, that gives people a little ray of sunshine.”

After a rocky start with low carryout sales the first couple of weeks, they’ve recently extended their hours. Customers can call ahead and order from the slightly limited food menu, which thankfully still includes the famous nachos (we’ll take the barbecue tofu, please!), burgers, wings, quesadillas, and more. To-go beers, cocktails, and shooters are also available.

“I cannot tell you how much I have been touched by the support of the community,” Mary says. “If I stop and think about it, I tear up because I’m so grateful, just beyond words.”

R.P. Tracks is open for curbside pickup from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Give them a call to place your order, then call again when you arrive and they’ll bring it out to you. — Shara Clark

3547 Walker, (901) 327-1471, rptracks.com

Spindini/South Main Grocery

When the restaurant industry seemed to plummet overnight, Spindini owner Jim LoSapio had to reimagine his business model — and quick. He and his partner came up with a plan to flip the Downtown restaurant into a grocery store. Thus, in late March, South Main Grocery was born.

Shoppers will now find shelves and coolers stocked with a variety of grocery offerings, to-go dishes, and more, as well as household items including soap, cleaning supplies, paper towels, and the ever-elusive toilet paper.

Spindini/South Main Grocery Facebook

Spindini has become South Main Grocery for the time being.

“We’ve incorporated the grocery store ideas with some of the things that we did well as a restaurant,” LoSapio says. “We have grab-and-go lasagna and take-home par-baked pizzas. We’ve also incorporated things we do at our other restaurants as grab-and-go items, like gumbo and red beans and rice.”

They’re also hand-cutting fresh meat, with filets and ribeyes on offer, in addition to burger meat. Current seafood options include red fish, salmon, and shrimp. Also available: milk, orange juice, eggs, pastas, sliced bread, hoagie rolls, bagels, and freshly baked cookies, muffins, and more.

Their new dinner specials have taken off. “On Monday and Friday, we’re doing $25 smoked pork butt that we slow smoke for 11 hours,” LoSapio says. “Tuesday and Thursday, we roast chicken halves and serve them with a side for $12. Wednesdays, we’re doing pans of the awesome Spindini sausage lasagna that we’ve been doing for years. It feeds six to eight people.”

LoSapio is grateful. “South Main and Downtown is really helping us support what we’re trying to do and helping me create job opportunities for my staff. [A situation like this] really makes you appreciate the loyalty of the employees, the loyalty of the community — and proves that we’re strong and we’ll definitely get through it.” — SC

383 S. Main, (901) 578-2767, follow them on Facebook for more info

The Bar-B-Q Shop

In the South, barbecue is the unofficial food of community. It’s what Memphians pick up, by the pound, to celebrate family reunions and graduations. Out-of-town visitors usually want to know where the best barbecue joint is. And while the coronavirus has put gatherings on hold, barbecue is still grade-A comfort food, and we could all use a little comfort these days.

“Our customers have such different relationships with all of us. It’s just been challenging from that perspective because part of what we do is not just to-go food, it’s interaction,” says Eric Vernon, manager/owner of the Bar-B-Q Shop in Midtown. It’s been hard, but Vernon says he and his staff are adapting to providing the comfort food without the personal connection — at least for the time being.

Jesse Davis

The store is offering to-go, curbside pickup, and specially priced bulk orders, or family packs. The Boston Butt Shoulder is $11.29 per pound, and the Beef Brisket is $15.49 per pound. Their famous Bar-B-Q Spaghetti is $21.99 per quart. To make getting your pulled pork fix easier, the folks at the Bar-B-Q Shop have designated the parking spots in front of the restaurant, marked by orange traffic cones, as the pickup area.

“We’re also, for the first time, doing DoorDash delivery, and we’re working on our online menu for our website,” Vernon adds, saying that he’s had calls and texts from regular customers with suggestions for how to best serve quarantined Memphians hungry for barbecue and how to best get the word out. “I get a tip every other day from people who are just wanting us to stay afloat.” Here’s to staying afloat through the storm — and to sharing community and comfort food once the storm passes. — Jesse Davis

1782 Madison, (901) 272-1277, thebar-b-qshop.com

Maw Maw’s ravioli from the team of Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman

Ticer and Hudman Restaurants

All is not lost if you still can order Maw Maw’s ravioli from Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman. Ticer and Hudman are the chef/owners of a string of popular restaurants, which now are offering curbside pickup.

Nick Talarico, operations manager for the restaurants, described what each place is doing.

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen “strictly does take-and-bake, and everything is cooked at [the customer’s] home,” Talarico says. “They do a family meal and an à la carte meal — like pastas and sauces. A lot of people are getting Maw Maw’s ravioli and taking it home and cooking it.”

Catherine & Mary’s and Gray Canary have teamed up at Catherine & Mary’s restaurant, he says. “They’re doing take-and-bake stuff as well as hot-and-ready items. They’re doing fun things. Like they did tamales one day. They’re doing a potato cake with neckbone gravy. Sort of a play on Hog & Hominy’s poutine. And then we also see a lot of our pastas — the hot and ready-to-eat pastas — as really successful down there.”

Bishop, he says, is “doing the same with hot-and-ready and takeout items — probably the Birdie [fried chicken, dill aioli, Calabrian honey] and the Bishop burger are the most popular.”

The restaurants are offering dinner, but Ticer and Hudman also rolled out Saturday and Sunday brunch at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and Catherine & Mary’s. “Like pancakes and quiche. And we’re doing grits. Doing a couple of different things.” — MD

Menus are updated daily on Instagram: @amitaliancooks, @catherine_marys, and @bishopmemphis.

Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, 712 W. Brookhaven Circle, (901) 347-3569

Catherine & Mary’s, 272 S. Main, (901) 254-8600

Bishop, 545 S. Main, No. 111, (901) 896-0228

Vegan Options

Sure, a lot of folks are ordering takeout from restaurants, but how is that going for the Memphis vegan community?

Many vegans, of course, are accustomed to having fewer choices when dining out, and most are comfortable with cooking at home for that very reason. The closest they come to home deliveries may be those from local farmers. But now in Memphis, vegan takeout has become fairly common. One place making a name for itself in this regard would seem quite unlikely — a dive bar: the Lamplighter Lounge.

Laurel Cannito from The Lamplighter Lounge

“We have a few unique vegan options,” says co-owner and chef Laurel Cannito. “Our curry special, our vegan sausage, egg, and cheese, our veggie burger, and our veggie dog. People are into it. We’re open every day from noon until 1a.m. After midnight, we try to get people to pick up, but if we have someone who can’t leave their house, we’re not going to tell them no. We deliver to the Midtown area, free if the order’s over $20. Under $20, there’s a $3 delivery fee. But most people who have been ordering have tended to get a good bit of stuff.”

As with all restaurants these days, a new hygiene regime is in force at the Lamp. “We got N-95 face masks before there was a shortage,” says Cannito. “We have gloves and lots of hand sanitizer and disinfectant. And we have disinfecting protocols we use every night, so everything is properly cleaned.”

Many other vegan-friendly establishments are also delivering these days, of course. Some, like the Lamplighter or Cheffie’s Cafe, use DoorDash, others use UberEats. Most vegans have their go-to restaurants in town, often non-vegan kitchens that have vegan-friendly items, as with many Asian or Mediterranean restaurants. Crazy Noodle will tweak their standard recipes for vegans on request.

But comfort food may be the order of the day for most stressed-out Americans, and it’s in high demand. Cannito has to put me on hold several times as orders roll in on a Thursday night. “Our most popular vegan item?” she says, when she finally has a moment. She doesn’t have to pause. “Hands down, the veggie burger with fries.” — Alex Greene

Lamplighter Lounge, 1702 Madison, (901) 567-5322

The Second Line and Fino’s

It’s going to be a while before we can laugh on the patio at The Second Line, enjoy quiet conversations in the elegant Restaurant Iris, and smile inside the bright and cheerful Fino’s Italian Deli & Catering.

For now, Kelly English, chef/owner of these restaurants, is adapting to the times. “Iris and Second Line kind of combined into one delivery and pickup service,” he says. “And we’re focusing on meals that people can eat with their families. Our most popular thing is the crawfish étouffée, gumbo, and jambalaya. I think people want to hug right now. The closest thing we can get to a hug is from food that comforts us.”

Caleb Sigler

Crawfish Étouffée from The Second Line/Restaurant Iris

Fino’s is doing call-in/to-go and curbside. No one sandwich is the most popular, he says. “Everybody has their own favorite Fino sandwich. It really depends on who walks in that day.”

But, English says, “The most popular thing, by far, we’ve done at Fino’s is our program that lets us partner with citizens to feed first-line responders. For groups of 400, we deliver $500 worth of food to police stations or fire departments and a lot of other places you might not think about, like the health department, as first-line responders. We’ve been doing that at least once a day.”

English also is partnering with Roadshow BMW to provide daily lunches to hospital staff members who are treating COVID-19 patients. He posts daily reports on deliveries and other doings at his restaurants on Facebook. “I fight for my team. I fight for my people. And some of my people can’t eat right now. Tired is nothing compared to what some people are going through.” — MD

For information on menus, prices, and restaurant hours, go to irisetc.com.

The Second Line, 2144 Monroe, (901) 590-2829

Fino’s Italian Deli & Catering, 1853 Madison, (901) 272-3466

Huey’s

The Huey burger is the definition of comfort food in Memphis. It’s a delicious reminder of good times.

As the chief operating officer for Huey’s nine locations, Ashley Robilio helped formulate the company’s response to the COVID-19 crisis. “We spent a good portion of the first two weeks in March just talking about strategy, and talking about all the what-ifs,” she says. “Everyone was so worried, and all of our employees were so scared. We really tried to calm them down and be as positive as we could. … We were probably one of the first restaurants that started social distancing. Even the term ‘social distancing’ was pretty unknown in Memphis for a while, so we got that part pretty quickly.”

Courtesy of Huey’s

When the shutdown orders came, the Memphis locations went first, followed a couple of days later by the suburban stores. Very quickly, Huey’s went to curb service and takeout only. Robillio says the transition went fairly smoothly. “We have decided to not do any layoffs,” Robillio says. “We’ve got a lot of obviously very good PR and thanks from all of our employees. I mean literally, some of our employees were in tears when they heard.”

The restaurant chain tapped its savings and, after some initial confusion, secured a Small Business Administration disaster assistance loan to keep their employees on the payroll. They kept employees at full pay with shortened hours and tweaked their to-go offerings. “We did take a few of the menu items off, either ones that had a lot of prep time or that don’t travel well, like nachos.”

Having a Huey burger delivered to your domicile seems like getting a message from a saner time. The Madison Avenue burger, which adds melted swiss cheese, mushrooms, and bacon to Huey’s juicy beef patty on a sourdough bun, is a deep menu cut that’s worth it. For the non-beef options, the Cajun-seasoned, grilled tuna steak sandwich is always delicious. Huey’s serves the classic steak cut fries, but a basket of tater tots or onion rings is an excellent alternative. Our recent order had encouraging messages hand-written on the takeout box. “We have gotten so many comments about the notes that we’ve written on these boxes, and some of them have gotten quite creative.”

In the coming days, Huey’s expects to roll out more ordering and delivery options and introduce a catering menu aimed at families and groups. They have already been filling large orders donors have bought to feed places like Hope House.

Robilio says she’s been in constant contact with others in the Mid-South restaurant community. “We’ve heard from a lot of different people, wanting our advice, wanting to know what we’re going to do, when we’re going to do it, and how we’re going to do it. We’ve obviously shared some things with anybody who asks. It is a community effort, and anything we can do to help the restaurant community, we want to do it. We’ve always been like that. My dad loved helping other restaurants. He loves helping anybody, and we’ve tried to stay with that same mentality.” — Chris McCoy

multiple locations, hueyburger.com

Beer!

Craft beer is essential. Local, state, and federal officials have (finally) confirmed this fact — one that I’ve known all along. In this virus world of isolation, I consider beer essential sanity supplies.

Now, it’s not the same. I like sitting at the bar and catching up with friends over pints. But, thankfully, you can still at least get those beers and bullshit with your buds over Zoom. (Still nope, though. Not even close to the same. Alas.)

Tons of local rules were relaxed on beers and breweries as stay-at-home orders came down late last month. Bars, restaurants, and breweries were allowed to offer curbside pickup and delivery.

This relentless global tragedy offers little in the way of comfort and joy. To endure, I’ve been counting every small grace I can find. One of them was the first time I ever grabbed a to-go beer from the Young Avenue Deli. I placed a dinner order over the phone and also requested a local draft beer, a 22-ouncer. What would this look like? How would it come? On my walk to pick up my order, I reveled in a daiquiri-stand fantasy of a big-ass styrofoam cup with a piece of tape over the straw hole. However it came, I knew I’d be sipping that beer on the walk home.

My fantasy wasn’t far off. It came in that plastic, Midtown-iconic Deli cup. No tape on the top, but it did have a lid with that straw hole. Plenty good enough for me. The whole thing was just … different, and felt sort of illegal. Drinking it on the way home felt deliciously rebellious.

Most Memphis restaurants are offering up curbside beer pickup and delivery. They are allowed to, at least. Many have wondered if that service will remain after social distancing orders are lifted. Seems like it’d be tough to walk it back now.

Most of Memphis’ craft breweries are offering pickup or delivery. Here’s a quick look at what they’re offering:

Meddlesome — Curbside pickup and delivery. Call (901) 207-1147 to order.

Ghost River — Curbside pickup and delivery. One case minimum on deliveries and you must live inside Memphis city limits. Call (901) 661-4976 to order.

Wiseacre — Curbside pickup and delivery. One case minimum for deliveries and only for addresses within a 10-mile radius of the brewery. Order form at wiseacrebrew.com.

Crosstown — Curbside pickup and delivery. One case minimum for deliveries with a $5 delivery fee. Order at crosstownbeer.com.

High Cotton — Stopped all pickup and delivery services Monday, April 6th. “We feel this is in the best interest of our community and employees,” reads a statement from the brewery. Cans and growlers are still available in stores and restaurants.

Memphis Made — Curbside pickup. Call (901) 207-5343 to order.— Toby Sells

The Brooklyn Bridge Restaurant

The Brooklyn Bridge has been an East Memphis fixture since 1985 and, since 1987, has operated in the Orleans Place Shopping Center near the intersection of Poplar and Kirby Parkway. It was the creation of Vincent and Bridgette Correale, first-generation Italian Americans who came to Memphis from — where else? — Brooklyn. The place is still family-run, with the general manager and head chef being Giorgio Correale, son of the founders.

The entire menu, which runs from New York-style pizza to such specialties as chicken piccata, lasagna Amalfitano, portobello mushroom ravioli with shrimp, and mussels plates, is available for takeout, as well as delivery through the Postmates service. A Family Dinners menu, with numerous condiments and options, has been especially created for the stay-at-home circumstances of today. Hours are 4 to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and 4 to 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Bottles of wine are 50 percent off (with house wines and Cellar Reserve excepted).

Phone lines are open each day at 4 p.m., and orders may be placed at 901-755-7413. The management promises that anyone leaving a message will be called back. — Jackson Baker

1779 Kirby Parkway, Ste. 5, (901) 755-7413, brooklynbridgeitalian.com

Mortimer’s

Mortimer’s is upgrading its service during the coronavirus emergency, offering delivery, in addition to its existing curbside takeout service. East Memphis, in particular, is considered a major part of the restaurant’s bailiwick.

But owner/operator Christopher Jamieson, who lives in Germantown, is doing the best he can to make available the restaurant’s goodies (including growlers, wine, and takeout cocktails) on as wide a geographic basis as he can manage, doing many of the deliveries himself.

Alas, the establishment’s oyster specials, famously available on Tuesday and Saturday nights, are not on the takeout or delivery menu, but everything else is — including copies of the current Flyer issues (Mortimer’s being one of our regular pickup points). Not to mention the two rolls of toilet paper, still a scarce item, that go with all to-go orders.

The Jamieson family has long been in the restaurant business and operated the legendary (and now closed) Knickerbocker’s on Poplar for many years. Christopher Jamieson, the proprietor at Mortimer’s since 2013, says business has been better than he had first expected when the orders came down to close restaurants for on-site service. “The community has been very supportive,” he says. — JB

590 N. Perkins, (901) 761-9321, mortimersrestaurant.net

Chard from Rose Creek

Direct from Farmers

While sheltering in place, we’re all cooking more than ever, but how to get the raw materials for your cuisine? Many feel the safest option is to eliminate as much of the supply chain as possible and take deliveries directly from local farms.

Randy Alexander of Tubby Creek Farm says it makes a lot of sense to take advantage of their home-delivered produce, purely from the standpoint of hygiene. They ensure that all harvesters wash their hands and wear masks. From there, as he puts it, “The food goes directly from our field to the consumer, instead of to a warehouse chain, and then a grocery store, and through a bunch of people before it gets bought.”

Ray Tyler, of Rose Creek Farm, points out another advantage of home-delivered local produce. “Right now is when people need to be taking care of their immune systems more than ever,” he says. “Local, nutrient-dense food is not a silver bullet, but it’s a good idea to eat more of it.”

As fate would have it, Rose Creek was already ramping up its online ordering in recent years, with a small fee for home delivery. But a sense of community service caused Tyler and his wife Ashley to reconsider that. “We really wanted to do our part in making this time a little easier,” he says. “So we started offering free delivery to everybody in Corinth [Mississippi], Selmer, Henderson, Jackson, Germantown, Collierville, and Memphis.”

Luckily, the shut-in policy took hold just as farms were rolling out their spring crops. “We’re hitting our peak,” says Tyler, who notes that they now are flush with carrots, scallions, spring greens, spinach, lettuce, herbs, radishes, arugula, and beets.

Meanwhile, Tubby Creek begins making their weekly deliveries of pre-sold subscriptions this Wednesday, even as they sell surplus crops via individual online orders. Rose Creek is mostly taking the latter approach. “Our customer base has increased 100 percent,” says Tyler. “Especially in Memphis. So this has relaunched this new local food resurgency. I think people realize that in times like this, it’s a really good idea to know your local farmer.” — AG

Tubby Creek, tubbycreekfarm.com

Rose Creek, rosecreekfarmstore.com

Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken

Uncle Lou’s Fried Chicken in Whitehaven, known for its crispy chicken breast dipped in sweet and spicy sauces and honey butter biscuits, closed its dining room a day before it was mandated by Memphis Mayor Jim Strickland.

Louis “Uncle Lou” Martin, the owner of Uncle Lou’s, says since then it’s been a “weird time,” but the restaurant is working to adapt. “We are struggling along,” he says. “But I’m fortunate we’re still open.”

Apart from frying chicken to perfection, Martin says his priority has been keeping his employees and customers healthy. Last week, he says he constructed and installed a sneeze guard at the restaurant’s counter. Additionally, he says, “We’ve been sanitizing like crazy. I have one guy whose only responsibility is keeping the restaurant clean.”

The restaurant is offering carryout and delivery through apps like Grubhub and UberEats. He’s been encouraging customers to make call-in orders to minimize social gatherings in and around the restaurant.

Martin says he has been in the food business since he was a junior in high school, and in the past few weeks he’s been challenged more than he has in nearly 45 years. Sales have dropped, and Martin says the restaurant isn’t making any money, but “We are making enough to pay staff and pay most of the bills.” Martin recently took a salary cut in order to keep all of his staff employed.

Uncle Lou’s serves a lot of travelers, he says. And the restaurant’s biggest money-maker has always been from people dining in. “First and foremost, I want to make it through this,” Martin says. “And I want my staff to make it through this with good health. When it’s over, I might have to reassess and make some changes. But we have to survive this first.” — Maya Smith

3633 Millbranch, (901) 332-2367, unclelousfriedchicken.com

Buster’s Liquors & Wines

Considering what a drastic change it was going from in-store to curbside sales at Buster’s Liquors & Wines, president and co-owner Josh Hammond is satisfied with how it’s going. “We shifted to just online sales, which we did for our employee safety and hopefully send a message to the community,” he says. “It’s been sort of amazing that we’ve been able to do the curbside pickup all reliant on our eCommerce system that we already had in place.”

Just before Buster’s made the switch, they were slammed almost like holiday business. “We saw significant increase there, but it was completely hectic and stressful seeing this many people in the stores,” Hammond says. “It was just too difficult to maintain. We saw a 30 percent drop-off the first week as we adjusted, and that was just from normal business. And then we saw a 15 percent increase the following week. This third week, things were just right in line with last year. So we’ve kept up.”

Jon W. Sparks

A big challenge has been compliance with coronavirus standards. “Getting masks for our employees has been an incredible task. They were ordered but got delayed. But I had a customer who gave us 200 of them.”

After ordering from the website, you get a confirmation and then later a notice that it’s ready for pickup. Parking spots are designated, and they have security directing traffic. The ordering feature is cut off at 5 p.m. so they can fill all the orders for that day. They tried delivery, but the influx of orders overwhelmed what they could do. They’re working on fixing that. — Jon W. Sparks

191 S. Highland, (901) 458-0929, bustersliquors.com

Tags Brooklyn Bridge, Buster's, Fino's, Huey's, Iris, Memphis craft beers, Memphis restaurants coping with COVID-19 shutdown, Mortimer's, Pete and Sam's, Rose Creek Farm, RP Tracks, Second Line, Spindini's, The Bar-B-Q Shop, The Lamplighter, Tubby Creek Farm, Uncle Lou's Fried Chicken

Cover Feature News

Gift Memphis: Think Local this Season — Here Are Some Ideas

Post author By Memphis Flyer Staff
Post date November 28, 2019

Do you really want to fight Black Friday crowds and support big-box retailers when we’ve got tons of cool, affordable, locally made and sold gifts available throughout the city? We didn’t think so. To help you tick some items off your shopping list, we’ve compiled a few hyper-local options for you — for an Alternative Black Friday, if you will — with favorite shops, items, makers, and more, to cover even the hardest-to-buy-for folks.

COOPER-YOUNG HAUL

Before you hit that “place your order” button, remember Amazon paid no federal taxes last year, its billionaire founder had the gall to cut health-care benefits for some employees this year, and — most importantly — Amazon is not Memphis AF (like, at all).

Cooper-Young is, in fact, Memphis AF. The neighborhood’s mix of restaurants and shops makes for a perfect, big-city shopping experience. Gleam in the season’s glow as you hustle your holiday gift bags across Cooper-Young’s new rainbow-pride crosswalk.

Plan your shopping spree for Saturday, November 30th. That’s Small Business Saturday, and some C-Y businesses have teamed up for a day of giveaways, drawings, and special deals and discounts. Ten lucky winners will go home with gift boxes worth more than $100 each. Need some C-Y gift ideas? We did some scouting for you. — Toby Sells

Fox + Cat Vintage: Forget fast fashion. This fashion boutique offers a lovingly curated closet of styles and tastes from a 1920s-era flapper girl hat ($150) to an ’80s-style jean jacket with a collection of amazing patches ($112).

Toby Sells

Fox + Cat Vintage

Young Avenue Deli: Barbecue is Memphis’ civic dish. If it had one, the Deli’s french fries might be the culinary standard for Midtown. I took two orders to a holiday potluck once. Folks laughed, but nary a fry was left. And let’s not even talk about those cheese sticks. Walls of craft beer, one-of-a-kind sandwiches, wings … get a gift card for anyone on your list.

Grivet Outdoors: This new outdoor shop has what Memphis needs to run, hike, climb, hunt, fish, or just about anything else. Don’t have an outdoorsy type on your list this year? How about someone who has to go outside in the wet Memphis winter? Try the waterproof duck boots from Sorel (men’s, $155; women’s, $120).

901 Comics: Thanks to a zillion Marvel movies, we know one thing: We’re all comic book nerds. 901 Comics has walls full of superheroes you know, like Batman and Iron Man, and some you might not know, like Bloodshot and Count Crowley. But the store has more than books. Think action figures, figurines, posters, games, shirts, masks, and more. Also, check out the R2-D2 toaster ($34) or the Death Star cheese board ($45) for the food geek in your life.

Toby Sells

901 Comics

Buff City Soap: Give your morning routine a local upgrade: Buff City Soap opened in Cooper-Young last year. All of the products are made in-house. So when they offer a bar of soap called Midtown Phunk, they know what they’re talking about. But it ain’t all bath bombs and body butters. Get that unruly scruff under control with Ferocious Beast beard oil ($15) or Shave and a Haircut beard balm ($15).

Toby Sells

Buff City Soap

Cooper-Young Gallery & Gift Shop: It’s an art gallery. It’s a gift shop. It’s a creative workspace. Sometimes the owners call it the “Cute Shop.” It all makes sense when you walk inside. Want to paint Ruth Bader Ginsberg by numbers? The kit will set you back $22. Pick up some stocking-stuffers like 38104-ever magnets ($3) or mugs ($15). There’s way more to discover in this perfectly eclectic, satisfyingly tidy little shop.

Burke’s Books: The Burke’s holiday window is a C-Y tradition. Neighbors make annual treks just to see what yuletide treat awaits them there. Inside the store is a book-lover’s treat year ’round — new releases, photo books, kids books, and more. Burke’s specializes in rare and collectible books, like a nice leather-bound copy of Ernest Hemingway’s For Whom the Bell Tolls ($18).

VINTAGE FINDS

For 35 years, Flashback has been the vintage place to go. Shoppers can find oodles of kitschy, cheesy delights — items of perfect pop culture, things so bad they’re good (ugly Christmas sweaters), designs you’d never have in your house until you realize you have to have them. But mostly you’ll find wondrous objects of beauty and rarity. Some are new, and many wear their age remarkably well: lovely backlit lithophane porcelains, frequently tasteful glassware and dishes, jewelry, singular shoes and clothing, including rude socks. There are Danish mobiles and bookmarks made from filmstrips (The Wizard of Oz is very popular). Elvii are everywhere.

Jon W. Sparks

Flashback

Proprietor Millett Vance has an eye for items that are just right, for yourself or as gifts for your wide range of friends and family. And she knows the price point you’re looking for. “Everyone looks for presents for people, and they end up buying something for themselves.”

Flashback is at 2304 Central, with the seated mannequin and pink flamingos al fresco. 272-2304. flashbackmemphis.com.

— Jon W. Sparks

SILVER BELLS

In her days at Memphis College of Art, Tootsie Bell wasn’t particularly thinking about becoming a silversmith. She needed a job, and a friend at a jewelry store hooked her up. She loves woodworking and sculpture as well, particularly when it’s at a bigger scale than the usual silver projects she does daily. That got her some commissions for public art, which you can see around town. But go into her shop — she’s been at it for 24 years — and look at the work on display. You’ll see a wonderful attention to detail. If you really want to take it to the next level, have her make some jewelry for you.

Tootsie Bell Silversmith

“My work, whether it’s large or small, has a theme to it,” Bell says. “I like there to be a meaning or a narrative behind it. When I work with customers, I like to get a background, a story of either the person that I’m making the piece for or something like that.”

And if you have a hankering to create some of your own baubles, she can help with that, too. She offers classes on how to craft a piece of jewelry. At present, she teaches four students at a time. “I help them come up with what they want to make and assist when I need to,” Bell says. “You make it and take it home.” When the new year gets underway, she’ll have more classes to accommodate bigger projects. She also offers gift cards, so you can let the giftee choose how they want to take the classes.

Tootsie Bell Silversmith is at 4726 Poplar. 763-4049. quenchstudiomemphis.com. — JWS

BLACK LODGE AND CHILL

After the temperature drops and the hyper-social holiday season winds down, your loved ones are going to want to spend some time quality time in their living room this winter.

If you’re looking for gifts to help you chill, the first place to go is Black Lodge. The independent video store that graced Cooper-Young for 14 years has recently reopened in a new space in Crosstown — and not a moment too soon. The Netflix-led streaming video revolution that put video stores out of business in the last decade is rapidly becoming fragmented and expensive. With the launch of Amazon Prime Video, Disney+, and Apple TV (to name a few), you have to subscribe to multiple services to get what you want. That’s where the Lodge comes in. Its selection of almost 30,000 titles dwarfs Netflix, and the knowledgeable staff will help you discover new movies and TV shows you may have overlooked. Gift recipients can use their Black Lodge gift cards to pay for the $10 per month membership or to snag something from the ever-expanding lineup of cool Lodge merch.

Justin Fox Burks

If reading is more your friend’s speed, Two Rivers Bookstore has a curated selection of science-fiction and fantasy books, such as Margaret Atwood’s The Testaments, the acclaimed sequel to the author’s dystopian classic, The Handmaid’s Tale. Two Rivers also carries local art and jewelry, and if your gift target is into tabletop role-playing games, you can get Dungeons & Dragons rulebooks and dice bags made in-store.

For the “chill” part, the place to go is Wizard’s. The Midtown smoke shop now carries six brands and 13 flavors of CBD flower for your stress-relief needs. To really take the edge off healthily, a Pax 3 or Firefly flower vaporizer will get you there without the cough and smell. Or you can go whole-hog and invest in the newest of the pioneering Volcano vaporizer line.

Wizard’s

Then again, maybe your loved one’s “chill” is more euphemistic. In that case, a visit to Coco & Lola’s lingerie shop is in order. They are the exclusive Memphis home to the Kilo Brava line of teddies, bustiers, and exquisite two- and three-piece lace bra and panty sets.

You won’t regret it when you see your loved one slip into a silk kimono, pop in a Blu-Ray, hit the vape, and let the magic happen. — Chris McCoy

WORK IT

My sister said she had a surprise for me. My only instructions: wear athletic clothes and show up to the provided address at a certain time. I pulled up to a small building on Flicker Street. It was Recess 901, a local gym that bills itself as providing a “diverse, curated fitness experience.” Inside, I was met by Nick Davis, one of the instructors. My surprise was a one-on-one, 30-minute boxing class with him. With his guidance, I hooked and jabbed my way through the session. Beginning in December, Davis will lead small-group boxing classes through a program called Go Boxing & Fitness. The eight-person sessions, featuring boxing training and bodyweight exercises, are designed to enhance one’s mental and physical state.

Justin Fox Burks

Recess 901

Davis believes the small-group format is optimal for boxing and brings out “healthy, natural competition. Go Boxing & Fitness not only changes your body,” he says. “It changes your mind, your attitude, and your mood.”

There are plenty of gifts like this one around town for the fitness junkies, as well as the outdoor lovers, in your life. For the runners, Fleet Feet has gear and accessories at all price points. From hoodies for cold days to reflective vests for night running to the best running shoe, it’s all there. Or help your loved ones reach new heights at Highpoint Rock Climbing and Fitness. The gym offers gift cards, so you can give the gift of bouldering and belaying. Finally, do you know anyone in need of a kayak, tent, or bike? Outdoors Inc. has everything for the outdoor adventurers on your list. — Maya Smith

UNUSUAL MERCH

For many musicians, the travails of touring can leave you in the lurch, unless you’re crafty with unorthodox merch. Music fans need only stroll over to the merchandise table. The expeditionary noise band Nonconnah, for example, can always make up for a low door take by selling jars of homemade jam or pickles. If they shared a bill with Neighborhood Texture Jam (NTJ), who’ve been known to shower the audience with Slim Jims, you could have a full meal. Then wash it down when seeing Seance Fiction, from Florence, Alabama, who have offered packets of powdered beverage mix in a Dixie cup sporting the words, “Drink the Kool Aid! Join the Cult!”

For all your romantic needs, merch of a more intimate nature can be had. The Rhythm Hounds, Fuck (the band), and NTJ have all offered underwear emblazoned with the group’s logo or name, though in the latter case, it was adult diapers. But Fuck, long hailed as kings of wacky merch, took intimate fandom to a new level by getting inside your eyelids: a camera flash, masked with a stencil of the band name, could be set off in your face, thus burning the word into your retina for a good 10 minutes. Oh, joy!

Some unorthodox merch actually honors the music. When the Lost Sounds were just another struggling combo in need of a deal, Alicja Trout would hand-paint CD-Rs of their albums, each one unique (and highly collectable now). And for those who love the lyrics of Cory Branan, he’ll write them out by hand on acid/lignin-free archival paper. One fan framed the words to his “Sour Mash” alongside two Prohibition-era prescriptions for bourbon.

Alicja Trout handpainted CD

So when you’re out at a show, be sure to peruse the merch table, perchance to discover that perfect gift for the music fan who has everything. — Alex Greene

PETS, ART, & ‘CUE

Personally, I love shopping for friends and family, so when they tell me they have everything they need, I take it as a challenge. It’s fun to defy your giftee’s expectations and give someone something nice that they wouldn’t normally get for themselves, doubly so when you’re supporting a local business with your purchasing power. So let’s get started.

Sure, the pet supply store Hollywood Feed has grown big enough to take a St. Bernard-sized bite out of the national market, but the first Hollywood Feed opened on Hollywood and Chelsea in Memphis in the ’50s, and the company still keeps its headquarters here. That’s local enough for me. And because even the most selfless or Spartan family members will at least pamper their pets, the store is a great place to shop for people who are, well, hard to shop for.

Justin Fox Burks

Hollywood Feed

What’s more, the friendly folks at Hollywood Feed are knowledgeable and understanding. A month ago, when, after adopting a kitten, I wandered inside in a daze, my head buzzing with questions about litter (clumping? non-clumping?) and food (grain-free or not?), the staff patiently walked me through the ins and outs of what I needed to keep my newly rescued furry friend safe and satisfied. Compared to that, shopping for my family’s fur-babies is a varitible romp in the puppy park. I just scoop up some dog toys and handmade treats from the animal-safe bakery, and I can mark a few folks off my list.

When it comes to local, Art Center knows what’s up. The full-service art supply store opened in 1974 and has plenty of experience helping Memphians with their custom framing, paints, charcoals, decoupage, and more. And since the owners require their employees to have a strong background in art, says general manager Jimmy Sanders, the staff is qualified to help even the most hapless of customers. Their prices span the spectrum, too, so you can stuff a stocking without unstuffing your wallet, or spoil your little Michelangelo in training to your heart’s content. Next!

My brother-in-law lives in Middle Tennessee, and he loves to cook. So I’ve been buying him barbecue sauce and dry seasoning every Christmas for seven years because, while you can get decent barbecue fixings out east, you can’t get Memphis barbecue sauce anywhere else.

Though I mix up which sauce I buy from year to year, The Bar-B-Q Shop on Madison has been winning awards for 32 years, with a 50-year-old sauce recipe that dates back to Brady & Lil’s Bar-B-Q Restaurant, making it a shoo-in for my brother-in-law’s stocking.

Justin Fox Burks

The Bar-B-Q Shop

For bonus points, round out your holiday haul with something seasonably sessionable to sip from one of the local breweries, some coffee from one of the Bluff City’s local roasters, a little something to nibble from The Peanut Shoppe at 24 S. Main, and some candles from Maggie’s Pharm.

Boom! You’ve got yourself a very Memphis holiday basket.

— Jesse Davis

TREASURE HUNT

I’ve always been a big fan of flea markets and arts festivals — you just never know what types of one-of-a-kind treasures you’ll find. The hunt is where the excitement lies, and it’s even more exciting when you’re directly supporting local creators.

This season, WinterArts brings a bit of that thrill with a showcase of functional and decorative work from nearly 50 of the region’s top artists, including several based right here in Memphis: Dorothy Northern (jeweler); Bryan Blankenship, Lisa Hudson, Becky Ziemer, and David James Johnson (ceramics); Felcitas Sloves, (fiber: weaving); Cheryl Hazelton (wood: marquetry); and others.

WinterArts

Treasure hunters will find handmade work crafted in glass, metal, wood, fiber, and clay. Think beautiful cuff bracelets, vases, wooden trinket boxes, ornaments, and more. Participating artists will have video at their booths, providing visitors virtual demonstrations of their creation process.

WinterArts

WinterArts is presented by ArtWorks Foundation, a nonprofit whose mission is to help artists grow and thrive. In its 11th year, WinterArts runs November 30th through December 24th at 888 White Station (between Poplar and Park, next to Bed Bath & Beyond). Browse the wares for unique gifts Mondays-Wednesdays and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Thursdays from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Fridays from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Sundays from 1 to 5 p.m. — Shara Clark

ELVIS SOCKS

In “Santa Bring My Baby Back to Me,” Elvis sings, “Fill my sock with candy.” Now, you can fill Elvis socks with — your feet. Lansky Bros. at The Peabody sells socks with Elvis’ likeness on them. Elvis playing guitar. Elvis in his “Jailhouse Rock” pose. You even can get black, pink, and white socks — the argyle type Elvis wore in some of his 1950s photos. He probably bought those socks at Lanksy back in the day.

Justin Fox Burks

Lansky Bros.

The black socks with the gold lightning bolt on them are their biggest sellers, says owner Hal Lansky. They’re inscribed with “TCB.”

“If you’re an Elvis fan, you’ll know what it means,” Lansky says. “Even if you’re not, you will.”

The socks, which are very comfortable, sell for $25 and $27.50. They’re fit for a king. Or the King. “Elvis is still the King,” Lansky says. “You know that.”

After the lucky gift recipient wears these Elvis socks, he’ll probably decide to hang up all his other socks and stick with these. He might want a complete selection of Elvis socks. Then he can have a blue Christmas, a green Christmas, an orange Christmas, a red Christmas — you name it. These socks come in various colors.

— Michael Donahue

Cover Feature News

Barbecurious!

Post author By Hannah Sayle
Post date May 17, 2012

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

Memphis has long been host to the biggest barbecue act around — balancing gritty kitchen smarts with a sweet disposition and a slow-cooking way of life.

No doubt you’ve seen the main event: pork ribs crusted with salty, spicy rub and doused with sweet, smoky sauce; sandwiches piled high with tender pulled pork, dripping with tangy sauce and creamy slaw.

But there are other attractions in town — some you won’t find in a typical tourist guide or brochure. The fact is, Memphians will barbecue just about anything. Read on for a peek at some of Memphis’ uniquely delicious twists on barbecue basics. From cultural crossovers to barbecue beer — behold, the barbecuriosities!

Korean Barbecue at DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar

Memphis barbecue purists probably won’t allow that what DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar serves is actually barbecue. DWJ’s ‘cue is cooked over a gas flame right at your table — no wood or charcoal involved — and for some sticklers, that’s a deal-breaker. But when it comes to flavor and spice, Korean barbecue, like the best Memphis-style preparations, really delivers.

Barbecue pork bellies — which should really appeal to pig-centric Memphians — come to the table coated in a flavorful red chili sauce and laden with mushrooms and onions. DWJ’s barbecue short ribs are thinly sliced and not nearly as sweet as Korean ribs can be, which is a good thing. Lightly marinated in minced garlic and sesame oil, the ribs are served with plenty of condiments and can be piled onto lettuce leaves with a blob of rice, a schmear of bean paste, some fresh green chili slices, and thinly shaved chunks of garlic and eaten like a wrap. Too much fuss? Just grab your chopsticks and eat them right off the grill. — Chris Davis

DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar, 3750 Hacks Cross, 746-8057

Lamb Riblets at the Rendezvous

This is counterprogramming at its finest. Who on earth would go to the world-famous Rendezvous and order lamb? I would and did. The serving consists of six or seven chunky, two-rib sections coated with Rendezvous dry rub. The lamb meat is much thicker than the Rendezvous’ pork ribs — plump, even — and pulls off the bone easily. It’s got a fine, tender, chewy consistency with a slight, lamb-y aftertaste. I added Rendezvous sauce to the rub and greatly enjoyed these off-the-beaten-path riblets.

The price is $18.75, the same as a full order of pork ribs, and the lamb riblets come with the same sides: slaw, beans, and a roll. I can eat a full order of pork ribs, but I couldn’t finish these — too much meat for one sitting. So, I took some home to enjoy the next day. Verdict: not baaahed at all. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous,

52 South Second, 523-2746

Char-Grilled Oysters at Pearl’s Oyster House

Fishermen scour the rocky coastline and sandy ocean floor to bring these pale, watery creatures to Memphis, so Memphis does what we do best: We barbecue them.

I’m not a great oyster aficionado, but I love the char-grilled oysters at Pearl’s. And what’s not to love? Oysters on the half-shell are sauced with a tangy, barbecuey, chipotle-garlic blend, then sprinkled with shaved Parmesan cheese. The little morsels are then shoved under a charbroiler long enough that the cheese gets browned to a chewy, crispy texture and the sauce is bubbling. A half-dozen, served on a rock-salt platter with a little spinach, also crispy and grilled, will set you back $9.99. But go for a dozen at $19.99. It’s seafood — how bad for you can it be? And these things are delicious. — Bruce VanWyngarden

Pearl’s Oyster House, 299 South Main, 522-9070

Cornish Game Hen at Cozy Corner

For 30 years, Cozy Corner, a tiny barbecue shack on North Parkway just east of Danny Thomas, has done things just a little bit differently from Memphis’ other pig palaces. Take, for instance, the most perfect thing on Cozy Corner’s menu: the barbecued Cornish game hen. So what if Cornish hens aren’t exotic game birds? And who cares if they aren’t always hens? These young chickens are Cozy Corner’s elegant, personal-sized twist on good old-fashioned barbecue chicken.

The Corner’s hens are cooked dry with a tasty spice rub until the skin is a beautiful mahogany color and the rich, smoky flavor goes all the way to the bone. They are served wet, with a thin, sweet-and-sour sauce that can be ordered mild or spicy but which might be more correctly labeled spicy and spicier. At $11 without sides, it may seem a little pricey, but it’s worth every penny. — Chris Davis

Cozy Corner, 745 North Parkway, 527-9158

BBQ Beer at Jack Magoo’s

While beer cocktails may be considered eclectic to the light-beer-drinkin’ masses, they’re not terribly uncommon. The British black and tan — half pale ale, half porter or stout — and the German Radler — half pilsner, half lemonade or soda — started showing up in pubs and biergardens close to a century ago and deserve their place in the world of beer. But the skeptics aren’t completely off the mark, with drinks like Jack Magoo’s BBQ beer out there.

A mix of Bud Light, Bloody Mary mix, Cattleman’s BBQ sauce, and olives garnishing, BBQ beer tastes more like a Bloody Mary than anything else. Its tomato, Worcestershire sauce, and peppery heat mixed with subtle, sweet barbecue notes make for a compelling combination. For those of you who enjoy a good Bloody Mary but are looking for an interesting take on the cocktail, this might be right up your alley — especially at a mere $2. — Andrew Caldwell

Jack Magoo’s Sports Bar and Grill, 2583 Broad, 746-9612

BBQ Tofu Burrito at R.P. Tracks

R.P. Tracks claims its barbecue tofu is “world famous.” And while international prominence might be a stretch, their deep-fried, ‘cue-covered bean curd is at least locally famous. It’s perhaps best known for its starring role in Tracks’ BBQ Tofu Nachos (tofu, black beans, tomatoes, cheese, and sour cream atop a bed of seasoned tortilla chips). But the BBQ Tofu Burrito may actually be the best tofu-to-mouth delivery method. The same toppings from those nachos are stuffed into a massive tortilla wrap (available in a white flour, wheat, sun-dried tomato basil, or spinach tortilla) topped with cheese (optional for vegans) and black olives. It’s a little hefty for lifting, so a fork (and maybe a to-go box) is recommended. Of course, you won’t miss out on those perfectly seasoned chips by skipping out on nachos. They’re served as a side item with Tracks’ signature garlicky tomato salsa. — Bianca Phillips

R.P. Tracks, 3547 Walker, 327-1471

Barbecue Brunswick Stew at the Germantown Commissary

Brunswick stew being served at a barbecue joint may only be considered sideshow in Memphis, the Mid-South, and the Delta. But in many other barbecue capitals in the South, Brunswick stew topped with pulled pork is a staple. Its recipe varies, and where the stew originated is up for debate, with folks from Georgia, Virginia, and North Carolina vying for the honor.

The hearty soup offered at the Germantown Commissary comes chock-a-block full of stewed tomatoes, green beans, corn, and lima beans, and the restaurant’s signature hickory-smoked pulled pork makes a big island in the middle. You can get a bowl for $5.50 — a generous portion that’s a meal — or as a side dish for $2.50. Crumble in some of the slab of cornbread provided to lend some sweetness to the spicy endeavor. — Greg Akers

The Germantown Commissary, 2290 Germantown Road, 754-5540

The Original Barbecue Pizza at Coletta’s

Eating barbecue pizza in the “Elvis Room” at the original Coletta’s on South Parkway is a singular Memphis experience. The “we can turn anything into barbecue” ethos we celebrate in this issue was arguably born in second-generation owner Horest Coletta’s kitchen in the 1950s. The basic concept — a sturdy, medium-crust cheese pizza topped with smoked pork and barbecue sauce — has become fairly common, especially with chicken, and has probably been improved on. But this where it began. And the atmosphere can’t be beat. The wood paneling and checkerboard tablecloths transport you back to the era of the barbecue pizza’s creation, while the Elvis paraphernalia framed along the walls — which includes the front page of The Commercial Appeal from the day after his death and appears as if it’s been unchanged for decades — pays proper tribute to a former regular who may himself have been among the first to savor this quintessentially Memphis creation. — Chris Herrington

Coletta’s, 1063 South Parkway, 948-7652

Barbecue Portobello Sandwich at Central BBQ

In the beginning there was tofu.

Central BBQ, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary and is on the verge of opening a third location, has well established that barbecue is indeed central with its award-winning ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, and hot wings. From the start, says owner Craig Blondis, they knew they wanted to offer diners a vegetarian option. They tried a barbecue tofu sandwich, but they couldn’t figure out how to keep the tofu from falling apart, so they switched to the heartier Portobello mushroom.

The Portobello is marinated in a mix of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, oregano, thyme, and garlic and then grilled. The sandwich is topped with smoked Gouda, slaw, and the restaurant’s mild barbecue sauce.

Blondis estimates that he sells 30 to 40 of the sandwiches each week. And while he notes that he’s had customers request that the barbecue Portobello sandwich be topped with pork, he says that this one’s for the vegetarians: “It’s for people who don’t eat meat to take part in the experience.” — Susan Ellis

Central BBQ, 2249 Central, 272-9377

BBQ Spaghetti at The Bar-B-Q Shop

If you’re from Memphis, chances are you’re quite familiar with barbecue spaghetti. But outside the Mid-South, this spin on the standard spaghetti side dish is a true novelty. You might think barbecue spaghetti would be a simple concept, merely replacing a traditional Bolognese sauce with barbecue sauce and smoked pork. But, at the BBQ Shop at least, it’s not that simple.

“People think it’s just our sauce and oil,” owner Eric Vernon says, “but it’s not.” Rather, at the Vernon family’s Midtown institution, cooked spaghetti is finished off in a base that’s considerably sweeter than the Shop’s tart sauce and then mixed with an au jus left over from the cooked pork. This infuses the pasta itself with a smoky, sweet flavor entirely unlike the restaurant’s Dancing Pigs sauce, which is added to the top along with a pile of chopped pork. A personal confession: For about three or four bites, I think this is one of the best things ever. But I find it almost too intense for further consumption. It’s perfect for a side. Others have the stamina to make a meal of it. — Chris Herrington

The Bar-B-Q Shop, 1782 Madison, 272-1277

24th Annual ASBEE Kosher BBQ Contest

While the annual Memphis in May barbecue festival was gaining its current international reputation, a parallel local event has also landed a place for itself on the festival map. This one, the annual ASBEE Kosher BBQ Contest, on the sprawling East Memphis grounds of the Anshei Sphard Beth El Emeth Congregation, is held in the fall — at just about that time (October 21st, this year) when fond gustatory memories of the barbecue festival itself may have faded.

Which is to say, the ASBEE event (“the world’s largest,” and maybe the only one of its kind, say the sponsors), while it is genuinely kosher — in that no pork products are served and other dietary restrictions are observed — is open to everyone. As the proprietors put it, “You don’t have to be Jewish or kosher to join us!”

Competition is usually in three categories, brisket and ribs and beans (yes, beans), with chicken recipes sometimes admitted. Radio legend and longtime Elvis bud George Klein is the emcee, and local celebrities, both Jewish and non-Jewish, serve as judges. A basketball tournament, a pickle-eating contest, and train rides and other frolics for the kiddies complement the eats. Nosh away! — Jackson Baker

1st Annual Cochon Heritage BBQ

When Cochon 555, a sui generis (dare we say, sooey generis?) swine-wine-and-dine event made its first stop in Memphis this year, foodies were beside themselves with joy. So when Cochon founder Brady Lowe announced that the inaugural Cochon Heritage BBQ event would be held in Memphis, we nearly swooned. This Labor Day, chefs, farmers, distillers, wine-makers, and pig-lovers will come together (at a location to be determined) to celebrate the union of heritage pork and whiskey for National Bourbon Month. Tastings, demonstrations, and some good old-fashioned competition will keep festivalgoers entertained while they stuff themselves to the gills with whiskey and pork. Above all, the event is dedicated to bringing heritage breed hogs back into the tradition of barbecue in one of the world’s biggest barbecue cities. — Hannah Sayle

Tags Central BBQ, Coletta's, Cozy Corner, DWJ Korean Grill and Sushi Bar, Germantown Commissary, Jack Magoo's, Pearl's Oyster House, Rendezvous, Rendezvous, Charles Vergos', RP Tracks, The Bar-B-Q Shop

Best of Memphis Special Sections

Best of Food & Drink

Post author By Flyer Staff
Post date October 1, 2009

CREDIT: Alex Harrison

Alex Harrison

Buttery tikka masala, tender tandoori, spicy vegetable dishes, and all other manner of Indian specialties are served at Midtown institution India Palace in its airy, comfortable Poplar Avenue location.

We’ll admit we find it adorable when, in the “Best Chef” category,
you write in “My Wife,” “My Husband,” or, better yet, “My Mom.” (The
answer “Your Mom’s House” for “Best Romantic Restaurant” is not so
cute.) Chef Boyardee didn’t stand a chance with only two votes for
“Best Chef,” but at least he’s got bragging rights over Mrs. Winner
who, despite the name and the chicken and biscuits, got only one
vote.

Justin Fox Burks

Kelly English, Restaurant Iris, 1st place: ‘Best Chef’

Best Chef

1. Kelly English, Restaurant Iris

2. Erling Jensen, Erling Jensen the Restaurant

3. John Bragg, Circa

Last October, Food & Wine magazine named Kelly English
one of the Top 10 “Best New Chefs” for 2009. That was quite the honor.
Now Flyer readers have vaulted English to the top spot for the
first time.

Best Lunch

1. Huey’s

2. Soul Fish

3. Lenny’s

Hey, you know all those other restaurants that were in the running
for “Best Lunch” in Memphis? Stick a toothpick in ’em. They’re done.
Huey’s gets the nod for lunch nosh this year.

Best Breakfast

1. Brother Juniper’s

2. Blue Plate Cafe

3. Bryant’s Breakfast

Oh Brother, Wherefore Art Chow? Sorry. Brother J. has won “Best
Breakfast” many times, and it’s because they offer delicious,
innovative, homemade food in an eclectic space crammed with interesting
people, especially on weekend mornings.

Best Romantic Restaurant

1. Paulette’s

2. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

3. The Melting Pot

Maybe it’s the desserts. Or maybe the soft tinkling of the ivories.
Or maybe just the wonderful menu, nice wine list, and warm ambience.
Paulette’s is a classic.

Best Sunday Brunch

1. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

2. Boscos Squared

3. Peabody Skyway — tie —

Beauty Shop

Owen Brennan’s sits at the cusp of Germantown and East Memphis, but
it draws Memphians from all over for its New Orleans-themed Sunday
brunch: the best in town for 2009.

Best Wine List

1. Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro

2. Texas de Brazil

3. Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse

Le Chardonnay moved across Madison Avenue a couple years ago, but it
has retained its dark, ski-lodge-y charm, its extensive wine list, and
first place for “Best Wine List” in your hearts.

Best Steak

1. Folk’s Folly Prime Steak House

2. Ruth’s Chris Steak House

3. The Butcher Shop

Folk’s Folly valets meet you at the curb. Once inside, you hear
sweet piano-bar stylings and the sound of cold drinks and cocktail
chatter. But who are we kidding? It’s all about the steak here, and
Folk’s Folly’s steaks sizzle!

Best Barbecue

1. Central BBQ

2. Corky’s

3. The Bar-B-Q Shop

Central BBQ takes top honor in what is probably the toughest
category in this poll: “Best Barbecue.” No matter how you spell it
— barbecue, BBQ, Bar-B-Q, whatever — Central’s on top
again.

Best Ribs

1. Charles Vergos’ Rendezvous

2. Central BBQ

3. Corky’s

The Rendezvous is sometimes derided as a place where tourists go to
eat Memphis’ most famous food group (16 barbecued ribs), but the
Flyer‘s poll makes it clear that locals love the Rendezvous as
much as people wearing Elvis T-shirts. And well they should.

Best Burger

BOM 1. Huey’s

2. Earnestine & Hazel’s

3. The Belmont Grill

That “BOM” designation means Huey’s has won “Best Burger” for so
long that it’s not even fair to anybody else in the running. Lots of
places in Memphis make good burgers, but only one takes the top spot,
year after year after year.

Best Hot Wings

1. Buffalo Wild Wings

2. D’Bo’s Buffalo Wings-n-Things

3. Central BBQ

With five Memphis-area locations, 14 sauces (ranging in heat from
“Blazin'” to “Sweet Barbecue”), and TVs set to sports everywhere you
look, Buffalo Wild Wings is leading the city’s wing scene.

Best Fried Chicken

BOM 1. Gus’s Fried Chicken

2. Popeye’s Chicken & Biscuits

3. Jack Pirtle Fried Chicken

If you want to eat lunch at Gus’s, you’d better get there early.
Folks line up for the crispy, smoky, spicy uniqueness that makes Gus’s
fried chicken better than anybody’s in Memphis. Or in the world.

Best Cajun/Creole

1. Bayou Bar & Grill

2. Owen Brennan’s Restaurant

3. Pearl’s Oyster House

The Bayou, like its sister restaurant, Le Chardonnay, hasn’t missed
a beat by moving across Madison. It’s bigger, but it still has a nice
patio, cold beer, stellar gumbo, and lots of other Cajun
delectables.

Justin Fox Burks

Petra, 1st place: ‘Best Mediterranean’

Best Mediterranean

1. Petra

2. Casa Grill

3. Petra Cafe

What’s more Midtown than this: Greek-Korean fusion in a restaurant
housed in a former gas station/garage, with patio seating right next to
the pumps? Spanikopita, moussaka, falafel — Petra is Greek
delicious. And the Korean soups and kimchi are fabulous too.

Best Dessert

1. Paulette’s

2. Beauty Shop

3. Kooky Canuck

Restaurants come and go, but Paulette’s “K-Pie” is a constant. Rich
coffee ice cream in a pecan-coconut crust, topped with whipped cream
and Kahlua, the Midtown institution’s Kahlua-mocha parfait pie is a
classic but not their most popular dessert. That designation apparently
belongs to the restaurant’s hot chocolate crepe. With crème
brûlée, Key lime pie, and other desserts dotting the menu,
Paulette’s is where Memphians go for post-dinner sweets.

Best Italian

1. Ronnie Grisanti & Sons Restaurant (now closed)

2. Pete & Sam’s

3. Bari — tie —

Ciao Bella Italian Grill

Long synonymous with Italian dining in Memphis, Ronnie Grisanti’s
closed its doors in August after a 25-year run at its Chickasaw Oaks
Plaza location on Poplar. But Memphians won’t be without the Grisanti
family’s authentic Tuscan cuisine, which has delighted local diners for
generations. Most of the restaurant’s staff — including Ronnie
himself — will relocate to the family’s Germantown location,
Elfo’s, which will be renamed simply Grisanti’s.

Best Mexican

1. El Porton Mexican Restaurant

2. Happy Mexican

3. Taqueria La Guadalupana

In an increasingly saturated local Mexican food scene, El Porton
maintains the top spot with five area locations, quick, reasonably
price lunches, a diverse menu, a full bar, and happy-hour specials.

Best Chinese

1. P.F. Chang’s

2. Wang’s Mandarin House

3. A-Tan

National chain P.F. Chang’s became a big local hit when it opened
its lone Memphis location — on Ridgeway in East Memphis — a
few years ago. In P.F. Chang’s large, opulent dining room, patrons can
feast on a diverse array of Chinese classics such as Mongolian beef,
ginger chicken, and spicy dumplings.

Best Thai

1. Bhan Thai

2. Bangkok Alley

3. Jasmine

Located in a large, converted Midtown house (the former home of
restaurant Maison Raji), Bhan Thai offers intensely flavorful Thai
dishes — masaman curry, pad thai, crispy duck, coconut-milk-based
soups, etc. — in an elegant atmosphere full of character, from
its small, intimate dining rooms to its popular patio in the back.

Best Vietnamese

1. Saigon Le

2. Pho Saigon

3. Pho Hoa Binh

This no-frills Midtown eatery has a loyal clientele because of its
focus on the food, which includes authentic Vietnamese specialties
— fresh spring rolls, great pho soups, vermicelli and tofu
dishes, and plenty of vegetarian options.

Best Japanese/Sushi

1. Sekisui

2. Blue Fin

3. Sekisui Pacific Rim

Restaurateur Jimmy Ishii has come to define Japanese cuisine, and
particularly sushi, in Memphis. The local chain is celebrating its 20th
birthday this year, first opening its Humphreys Center flagship
restaurant in 1989 and now covering the city with five locations.

Justin Fox Burks

Soul Fish, 1st place: ‘Best Home Cooking / Soul Food’

Best Home Cooking/Soul Food

1. Soul Fish

2. The Cupboard

3. Blue Plate Café

For exquisite catfish and hush puppies and a big daily selection of
veggies, it’s hard to order anything else off of Soul Fish’s menu. But
try their smoked half-chicken, and you’ll be doubling up on meals to
satisfy all your menu urges.

Best Vegetarian

BOM 1. Whole Foods Market

2. The Cupboard

3. Jasmine

Whole Foods Market, a foodie oasis on Poplar Avenue in East Memphis,
is more than a grocery store. Its large prepared-foods section —
pizzas, sandwiches, salad bar, bakery, coffee and juice bar — and
dining area make it a popular lunch and dinner spot for vegetarians and
health-food enthusiasts, in particular. Whole Foods also offers cooking
classes to help you find interesting things to do with the fresh and
healthy items they sell.

Best Seafood

1. Tsunami

2. Bonefish

3. The Half Shell

The anchor restaurant of Cooper-Young does it again, taking “Best
Seafood” for the millionth year in a row. Scallops, sea bass, mussels,
you name it, Chef Ben Smith and crew deliver a ship full of great taste
in a sophisticated atmosphere.

Best Pizza

BOM 1. Memphis Pizza Cafe

2. Garibaldi’s Pizza

3. Old Venice

Memphis Pizza Café was an instant hit when it opened in 1993
and has since expanded its local pizza empire to five locations, all
serving tasty, crispy pizzas, including such faves as the white-sauce
“alternative” and the zesty Cajun chicken.

Best Deli

1. Fino’s from the Hill

2. Bogie’s Delicatessen

3. Young Avenue Deli

What says Midtown more than the intersection of Madison and McLean?
And what says a great deli sandwich better than Fino’s from the Hill,
on that very Midtown corner? In addition to the popular made-to-order
sandwiches — cold cuts, cheeses, toppings, all on good crusty
bread — Fino’s offers pasta dishes and grocery items. That’s
Italian!

Best Server

1. Jeff Frisby, Restaurant Iris

2. Michele Fields, Calhoun’s Sports Bar

3. Jean Pruett, Bardog — tie —

Brent Skelton, The Kitchen

Jeff Frisby at Restaurant Iris must be doing something right. Last
year, he was named one of the city’s best servers in our Best Of poll.
This year, he’s done it again. Must be that Frisby knows not only how
to serve, he knows what to serve when it comes to vino: He’s Restaurant
Iris’ wine manager. (Factoid: All our winners in this category work in
Memphis’ new or newish restaurant/bars. Good to see Flyer
readers appreciate the city’s evolving food scene.)

Best Service

1. Chick-Fil-A

2. Texas de Brazil

3. Houston’s

Drive-thru or in-store, the crew behind the counter at any of
Memphis’ Chick-Fil-A locations have it down pat: your order in your
hands — fast. More amazing (and given the volume of business),
they do it, hands down, with the friendliest service in town.

Justin Fox Burks

Chick-Fil-A, 1st place: ‘Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant’

Best Kid-Friendly Restaurant

1. Chick-Fil-A

2. Chuck E. Cheese

3. Huey’s

We forgot to mention (see “Best Service”) that the crew at
Chick-Fil-A must have nerves of steel. As a new winner in the
kid-friendly restaurant category, these folks have what it takes when
children combine with fast food. Call it grace under pressure.

Best Local Late-Night Dining

1. Huey’s

2. Earnestine & Hazel’s

3. Young Avenue Deli

And we mean late. We’re talking, at several of Huey’s
multiple locations, a kitchen that’s open until 2 a.m. Don’t deny it.
At that hour and after some damage, what your body’s craving is a
burger and onion rings.

Best Place for People-Watching

1. Flying Saucer

2. Young Avenue Deli

3. Celtic Crossing

The corner of Beale and Second: The wide-open windows at downtown’s
Flyer Saucer aren’t there for no reason. Whether you’re in the
restaurant or passing on the sidewalk, this place was tailor-made for
people-watching. Evidence: During the Memphis Music and Heritage
Festival a few weekends ago, the place was jamming, inside and out.

Best Patio

1. Celtic Crossing

2. Boscos Squared

3. Cafe Olé

In a word: trivia. Celtic’s popular Wednesday-night tournament this
past summer had the patio packed. Any night, any season, though, will
do for a Guinness and some major hanging-out in Cooper-Young. Bonus
attraction: On this patio, you’re only a few steps from the scene on
the street.

Best Local Place That Delivers

1. Garibaldi’s Pizza

2. Young Avenue Deli

3. Camy’s

Another new winner in our Best Of poll: Garibaldi’s Pizza —
established 30 years ago by owner Mike Garibaldi — has three
locations for handmade pizzas, pastas, salads, wings, sandwiches,
sweets, and more. Garibaldi’s caters to not only what you’re hungry
for, according to readers, it really delivers.

Justin Fox Burks

Muddy’s Bake Shop, 1st place: ‘Best Bakery’

Best Bakery

1. Muddy’s Bake Shop

2. La Baguette

3. Fresh Market

Again: a new winner. And, according to Muddy’s website, if you’re
rude, whiny, impatient, or otherwise unpleasant, forget stepping inside
this bakeshop. If you’re green-minded and egg-headed (Muddy’s uses eggs
from cage-free, free-range hens), you’re welcome! Plus, who’s to argue
with a cupcake called “Prozac?”

Best Local Coffeehouse

1. High Point Coffee (now closed)

2. Otherlands

3. Café Eclectic — tie —

Republic Coffee

High Point Coffee just closed. (It’s the economy, stupid.) But
Otherlands, Cafe Eclectic, and Republic Coffee — the hotshots
rounding out your picks for best local coffeehouse — havestill
got their vibe going and the caffeine coming.

Best Restaurant

1. Restaurant Iris

2. Tsunami

3. Huey’s

Iris: It’s in the eye of the beholder. Restaurant Iris, “Best
Restaurant,” according to Memphians who value fine dining. In the space
of a year, nationally recognized chef Kelly English has succeeded in
turning Restaurant Iris into the city’s go-to address for exceptional
French-Creole-inspired cuisine. Doesn’t hurt that the restaurant also
features first-rate service in an intimate, romantic atmosphere.

Best New Restaurant

1. Flight

2. Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen

3. Overton Park Pizze Stone

The interior’s gorgeous, but it’s the food at Flight that has
Flyer readers hooked — and voting. Flight’s “flights”
— a trio of tastings from the entrée, dessert, and wine
menus — make it a wonderful way to sample what’s cooking in the
kitchen. What’s on your table: small plates but great taste. Or you
want regular-size portions? No problem. You can order that way too.

Tags A-Tan, Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Bangkok Alley, Bardog Tavern, Bari Ristorante Enoteca, Bayou Bar & Grill, Beauty Shop, Belmont Grill, Bhan Thai, Blue Fin, Bluefin — Edge Cuisine And Sushi Bar, Bombay House, Bonefish Grill, Boscos Squared, Brother Juniper's, Buffalo Wild Wings, Cafe Eclectic, Cafe Ole, Calhoun's Sports Bar & Grill, Camy's, Casa Grill, Celtic Crossing, Central BBQ, Ciao Bella, Circa, Corky's, D'Bo's Buffalo Wings n' Things, Earnestine & Hazel's, El Porton, Erling Jensen's, The Restaurant, Fino's from the Hill, Fleming's Prime Steakhouse, Flight Restaurant & Wine Bar, Flying Saucer Draught Emporium, Folk's Folly Original Prime Steak House, Garibaldi's Pizza, Golden India, Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken, Half Shell, Happy Mexican, Huey's Collierville, Huey's Cordova, Huey's downtown, Huey's Midtown, Huey's Poplar, Huey's Southaven, Huey's Southwind, India Palace, Jasmine Thai Restaurant, Kooky Canuck, La Baguette, Le Chardonnay, Lenny's Sub Shop, Memphis Pizza Cafe, Muddy's Bake Shop, New York Pizza Cafe, Old Venice Pizza Co., Otherlands Coffee Bar, Overton Park Pizze Stone, Owen Brennan's, Paulette's, Pearl's Oyster House, Pete & Sam's, Petra Cafe, Petra Restaurant, PF Chang's China Bistro, Pho Hoa Binh, Pho Saigon, Rendezvous, Republic Coffee, Restaurant Iris, Ronnie Grisanti And Sons, Ruth's Chris Steak House, Saigon Le, Sekisui Of Japan, Sekisui Pacific Rim, Sekisui Sushi Bistro, Soul Fish Cafe, Taqueria La Guadalupana, Texas de Brazil, The Bar-B-Q Shop, The Butcher Shop, The Cupboard, The Kitchen, The Melting Pot, Tsunami, Wang's Mandarin House, Young Avenue Deli

Cover Feature News

The Quest for Fire

Post author By Chris Herrington
Post date May 14, 2009

CREDIT: Justin Fox Burks

In the beginning there was nothing, and the universe sang the blues. But later, there was man, and it was good, and there was fire, and it was good, and there was pig, and it was good. And some good person (coulda been Adam, coulda been Eve) saw that fire and pig belonged together, and it was oh so good. (Funny story: Eve liked ribs so much she tried one of Adam’s. Meh, not much flavor.) In truth, nobody knows exactly where fire met pig, but everybody agrees on where it was perfected: Memphis, the Garden of Eatin’.

Fast-forward to today, when not only has the marriage of fire and pig been perfected in Memphis, it’s been perfected in many different
ways across the city. Barbecuing ribs is an art in Memphis, with many
masters finding delicious subtlety in some fundamental variations: dry
or dripping wet, spicy or sweet, spare or baby back ribs.

We here at the Memphis Flyer have taken upon ourselves the
enormous burden of seeking out the best of the best of the best in
Mid-South barbecue rib-ery. It’s a noble quest for fire and pig, we’ll
admit, and one not taken without some measure of sober reflection. With
a passive mien, we assumed the mantle of responsibility and trudged
toward our fates, each step heavier than the … oh, who are we
kidding, it was the most fun thing ever! The Flyer staff was
full of smiles — saucy, meaty-toothed smiles — for three
days, as we performed our self-elected duty.

Justin Fox Burks

Ten years ago, the Flyer conducted a similar contest,
sampling ribs from all over to find a winner. The story, published May
20, 1999, with a cover featuring Flyer writer Chris Davis’ belly
emblazoned with a saucy “Q,” found a tie at the top, with the best ribs
coming from Willingham’s and Corky’s, followed by Cozy Corner and
Pig-n-Whistle (honorable mentions: Gridley’s, the BBQ Shop, and
Rendezvous).

Volunteering for judging duty this time around were Greg Akers, Tess
Bailey, Mary Cashiola, Chris Davis, Chris Herrington, and Bruce
VanWyngarden. We cast our nets around the ribs from 14 must-sample
local establishments. We halved the list and held two qualifying
rounds, with a half-dozen finalists competing on a third day. Scoring
from the initial round did not carry over. The plate, as it were, was
wiped clean.

Unfortunately, one of the winners from a decade ago, Willingham’s,
is no longer with us. Thankfully, the ‘cue master from that
establishment, John Willingham himself, is, and he graciously agreed to
talk fire and pig with the judges and administer the rites of his Order
of the Apron. A multi-time winner at the Memphis in May World
Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, Willingham is a nationally known
expert in the field.

Justin Fox Burks

John Willingham

Willingham preached the gospel of the rib, which has five basic
tenets: appearance, aroma, taste, chewability, and memory. On barbecue
sauce, Willingham said, “Generally speaking, people cover up that which
you love to see — it’s like a woman wears a dress.” And the
congregation (well, some of us), replied, “Amen.” Of barbecue judging,
Willingham said, “We wanted to make it formal but with an element of
freedom. I believe in the freedom of barbecue.”

With freedom in mind, the contest was fashioned after good ole
American democracy. Restaurants were not told that the orders of ribs
would be used for a contest: We judged the ‘cue that anyone can get on
any given day. Ribs were then assigned numbers, so the judges didn’t
know where they came from.

Armed with score sheets based on those used in the Memphis in May
contest (which broke down judging into four categories: Appearance of
Entry, Tenderness of Entry, Flavor of Entry, and Overall Impression),
our motley ‘cue crew got to work. Rib by rib, we employed all of our
senses to determine who has the best ribs in Memphis. Each judge had
his or her preferences, of course, but cumulatively we came up with a
final ranking. Who won? Read on, reader.

The Top Three:

Justin Fox Burks

#1 The BBQ Shop

1. The BBQ Shop: On the first day of testing, the BBQ Shop’s
rack of ribs scored well but only topped one of our six judges’
ballots. “Pulls off bone nicely, but a little dry,” one judge wrote.
“It has a different taste from any other rib. Unique, but I’m not going
to daydream about it. The meat is almost too subtle, but it’s there and
pretty good,” another decided.

In the final round, however, the BBQ Shop left our judges plenty to
daydream about, finishing in the Top 2 on five of six ballots and
excelling in every category. Appearance: “Big bones with meat on top of
the rib.” “An appealing color — warm blend of red and gold.”
Texture: “The texture couldn’t be more perfect. Stays on the bone but
comes off the second the tooth hits it — and moist!” “Terrific
chewability.” Taste: “Sweet, excellent sauce, with the flavor of the
meat emerging as you chew.” “Good blend of spices and good meat
flavor.” And overall: “Two-faced — wet on one side, dry on the
other. These are Hannah Montana ribs — the best of both worlds.”
One judged summed up the collective reaction: “I am very happy about
this rib.”

2. Leonard’s: The bold, heavy rub on Leonard’s ribs split our
judges on the first tasting. “The rub is too thick and salty. It
overwhelms the meat but has a nice hint of heat,” one judge wrote.
Another agreed: “Too much spice — it overpowers the flavor of
everything else.” Others were knocked out by the intensity: “Pops with
taste,” one judge gushed. “The dry rub is magnificently strong.
Fantastic. Wanted to eat all of it off the bone.” Another wrote,
“Wonderful, wonderful spice. Coriander? Mustard? Complex, smoky
flavors, but the flavor of the meat a little covered up.”

In the finals, Leonard’s seemed to find the right balance of spice
and meat: “Spicy, but doesn’t overwhelm the smoke, which doesn’t
overwhelm the meat,” one judge proclaimed. “Piquant, tangy with a nice
blend of sweet and smoky and an appealing aftertaste,” wrote another
judge. “Very spicy and tasty,” another agreed. “Just the right mix of
spice, heat, and saltiness, and not too sweet. Yummy.” Still, this is
one rib that is not for those who can’t take intense flavors: “I worked
this bone as long as I could, but you’ll need a beverage with it.”

3. The Pig on Beale: Neither as universally known as the
likes of Rendezvous or Corky’s, nor boasting the hipster/connoisseur
cred of Cozy Corner or Payne’s, The Pig on Beale is a relatively recent
entrant to the Memphis’ ‘cue scene, and it’s tucked away on Memphis’
most famous street, where music and nightlife tend to overshadow
food.

But our judges were impressed by the consistent, smoky, “pink to the
bone” flavor of the Pig’s ribs: “Too sweet and very little spice, but
the smoke is brilliant. The meat’s flavor swells in the mouth,” one
judge wrote. “Tender, smoky,” another said. “Tender and easy to bite
off the bone — a nice lean texture. It’s sweet on top and
smoky underneath. Good flavor,” one judge decided. The sweetness of the
Pig’s offerings was the only aspect that split our judges, though
everyone appreciated the beauty of the “dark, red, caramelized
exterior.” “It’s a dessert rib,” one judge wrote, capturing what seemed
to be a consensus of opinion.

Justin Fox Burks

Left to right: Bruce VanWyngarden, Chris Davis, Greg Akers, Chris

Runners-Up

Rendezvous: The spicy rub on this Memphis staple was a big
hit with our judges. “Looks good like a dry rib should, with whole
mustard seeds and crumbled spice that’s still green (!) amid the red
and black,” one judge marveled. “Very pretty with lots of spice on top
of what looks like a generous portion of meat,” another judge wrote.
But while our judges loved the spice, they were merely satisfied with
the rest of the package. “Brilliant spice mix on nicely grilled meat,
though it has very little smoke or other noteworthy characteristics,”
one judge decided. Another summed up the overall impression: “This
tastes like backyard-cookout ribs but in a good way.”

Pig-n-Whistle: The dark-glazed ribs from this suburban staple
drew a mixed reaction. “The sweet sauce overpowers the meat,” one judge
complained. Another cracked: “I don’t like having to forage my meat off
the plate from a puddle of sauce. But maybe that’s just me.” If one
judge thought Pig-n-Whistle’s sauce was a “cover-up,” another disagreed
by inverting Willingham’s aphorism: “The sauce, in this case, is like a
well-cut dress on a woman — it enhances.” And there was plenty of
agreement on this issue. “Good sauce flavor — rich, hearty, not
too sweet, and you can still taste the meat,” one judge wrote.

Interstate: On its first tasting, three different judges
praised Interstate’s tangy sauce as a nice complement to meat whose
“the texture is perfect — it pulls off the bone easily, but
doesn’t fall off. Moist, but not mushy.” “This rib has good flavor that
improves — swells — after you swallow,” another wrote.
A second tasting, however, drew criticism for the
“tomato-paste-looking” sauce that drew “dress-on-a-woman” complaints.
So Interstate suffered from inconsistency. Even on the second day,
however, two judges praised the “subtle heat” of Interstate’s ribs.

Honorable Mentions

(These contenders just missed making the finals in a close
vote):

Central BBQ: Several judges were taken aback by the dark
appearance of Central’s rack: “Looks burned, the appearance almost
makes you not want to eat it,” one judge wrote, echoing others’
sentiments. Some judges had a different reaction to the “as dark as my
coffee” appearance: “a dark rub with evidence of smoke on the bone. Not
pretty like a wet rib, but you can tell the meat’s going to be good
underneath.” Once judges sank their teeth into Central’s ribs, there
was a similarly split opinion. “Inconsistent, the taste is almost
oily,” one judge complained. Another thought their ribs had a “dry,
agey” taste. But others were impressed: “Good smoky flavor to the meat,
solid mix of spice up top,” one judge praised. “Meat is smoky and
juicy. The spice rub is subtle but gains over time, with a spicy kick
at the end,” another wrote. A third said the meat “pulls off the bone
just right, with a pleasant texture.”

Germantown Commissary: The chewy texture of Germantown
Commissary’s ribs was a consistent subject of either minor or major
complaints: “Tough and chewy, really chewy. This did not do it for me,”
one judge wrote. “The meat needs to be more tender,” another wrote.
“Sticks to the bone a little too much but has a nice texture to the
taste,” another judge wrote. Commissary scored well in other areas,
though: “Nice hint of smokiness and good balance of sweetness,” one
judge wrote of the flavor. “A solid rib, though not as spicy as it
could be. Lingers and improves. A subtle ‘cue that sneaks up on you,”
one judge praised. Another summed up the Commissary’s entry this way:
“Great overall performance in terms of taste and appearance but not as
tender as it could be. But I’ll remember this one.”

Cozy Corner: The first ribs tasted, our judges hadn’t quite
found their groove in terms of juggling messy finger food and
comment-writing, but two judges complained that Cozy Corner’s ribs had
too much fat, while another questioned the “petroleum aftertaste.” But
another described these thick ribs as “beautiful” and praised the
“great spice mix.”

We judged the following 14 restaurants. Click on a restaurant name to leave your own comments and reviews!

(*Denotes location where we picked up the ribs for this
contest)

A&R (1802 Elvis Presley Blvd., 7174 Stage Rd., 3721 Hickory
Hill Rd., *22 N. 3rd St.)

Blues City Café (138 Beale St.)

The BBQ Shop (1782 Madison Ave.)

Central BBQ (*2249 Central Ave., 4375 Summer Ave.)

Corky’s (*5259 Poplar Ave., 1740 N. Germantown Pkwy., 743 W.
Poplar Ave.)

Cozy Corner (745 N. Parkway)

Germantown Commissary (2290 S. Germantown Rd.)

Interstate (*2265 S. 3rd St., 150 W. Stateline Rd.)

Leonard’s (*103 N. Main St., 5465 Fox Plaza Dr.)

Neely’s (5700 Mount Moriah Rd., *670 Jefferson Ave.)

Payne’s (1762 Lamar Ave.)

The Pig on Beale (167 Beale St.)

Pig-n-Whistle (*2740 Bartlett Rd., 4265 Hacks Cross Rd., 6084
Kerr-Rosemark Rd.)

Rendezvous (52 S. 2nd St.)

Tags A&R BBQ, Blues City Cafe, Central BBQ, Corky's, Cozy Corner, Germantown Commissary, Interstate Bar-b-q, Leonard's, Neely's Bar-b-que, Payne's BBQ, Pig-N-Whistle, Rendezvous, Rendezvous, Charles Vergos', The Bar-B-Q Shop, The Pig on Beale