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Food & Wine Food & Drink

The Extra Mile

Keith Clinton puts the “experience” in “dining experience” at Chez Philippe.

In addition to what they find on their plates, diners also are surprised by the extras Clinton provides.

Clinton, 35, immediately put his footprint down earlier this year when he became chef de cuisine at the elegant restaurant at The Peabody. “I move so fast,” he says. “And I change the menu constantly. We’re so hyper-focused on seasoning and sourcing of ingredients. We must move. And I am constantly pushing and constantly recreating and developing. And they give me the space to do that.”

Also, he adds, “I’m just fascinated with food. Fascinated with nature. The process of it all.”

Clinton, who was chef de cuisine for five years at Erling Jensen: The Restaurant, was a private chef when he heard about The Peabody opening. “I was looking to have a little more fun. I missed service. I missed going fast.”

Clinton is now having fun. He searches for unusual ingredients, as well as the best familiar ingredients, for his cuisine. He and his kitchen staff are constantly making trips to Jones Orchard in Millington, Tennessee. “I really like taking my guys out there. And just spending an afternoon before service picking produce we’re going to use that weekend.”

Like the strawberries they bought last spring. “We would pick the green ones. Just a little ripe. A little not ready. And ferment them for a dish on the menu.”

He made a green strawberry sorbet with the fermented strawberries. They topped that off with some buttermilk ice. “So, it’s like a buttermilk granita.”

Clinton also regularly visits Viet Hoa Market — “an amazing resource on Cleveland” — to find unusual ingredients.

But he also educates diners. “I’ll take all the ingredients in raw format — ramps and raw mushrooms — out to the table and say, ‘This is what’s in this dish.’”

He pinpoints certain times during his seven-course menu to go into the dining room. He’ll show up with shoyu, a liquid made from cherry blossoms, for his tuna fish, grapefruit, and avocado dish. He’ll “pour the shoyu over the dish at the table and talk to guests. Explain it to them.”

Clinton also researches guests who’ve made reservations. “Gathering as much information about them so we can tailor the experience.”

He’ll look them up on LinkedIn and Whitepages. “I know I have two hours to figure out something about this person with the information I received. And I translate that into an experience that is customized to that person. Which is a challenge to me.”

For instance, Clinton discovered a particular couple once celebrated a wedding anniversary at Earnestine & Hazel’s. He assumed they had Soul Burgers, so he created mini smash burgers, which he surprised them with halfway through their meal. “Nobody else got a Soul Burger that night but them.”

His menus are “more seasonal than just the four main seasons. Especially when things are only around a couple of weeks or only once a month.”

His seven-course menu includes a snack course that can be eaten by hand. These include items like a fig and almond butter tart and a mushroom and truffle tuile. “I put in a hot towel service. When they’re done eating with their hands, I present them with a hot towel that’s steamed in essential oils.”

Diners even get “playful mignardise,” little snacks, maybe like a Windsor cookie, they can “eat in the car on the ride home or the next morning.”

He wants his diners to know, “We’re still thinking of you. And hope you’re still thinking of us.”

Clinton knows when to visit a table. “Some people seem open to it, some are more reserved. I play it by ear.”

He will “catch the vibe.” That’s when he might think, “I’ve been out there too much. I’ve been to their table five times. Let them eat.”

But, Clinton says, “Building that relationship with the guests, going the extra mile, is necessary.”

Chez Philippe is at The Peabody at 149 Union Avenue.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Chef Justin Hughes Offers His Creations Via The Wooden Toothpick

You might not recognize chef Justin Hughes if you see him out in public these days.

Owner/creator of The Wooden Toothpick, Hughes, 25, says, “I thought of the name because nobody really sees me without a toothpick in my mouth. Except now. Because we have to wear masks.”

Hughes, pastry chef at Chickasaw Country Club, describes The Wooden Toothpick as “just a little side business I started at home. I started making homemade ice cream. It was really just people who wanted stuff — pastry and cakes. And I said, ‘Sure. I can do it.'”

Marcia Woods

Justin Hughes

His menu also will include hamburgers. “One is going to be the Spicy Shroom, with jalapeños, roasted mushrooms, American cheese, and bacon. It’s not all pastries.”

Hughes conducts his side business in his home kitchen when he’s not at the country club, where he makes desserts for banquets and “all the special desserts for dining in. I also do cakes on request by the guests.”

The afternoon we spoke he was preparing to make an alligator cake for the club’s swim team.

Becoming a chef was the furthest thing from his mind growing up in Memphis. Hughes found himself in a kitchen when he was 18. His dad, who worked at Galler Foods, got him a job at Interim restaurant.

Hughes began working as a dishwasher under chef/owner Jackson Kramer. “I didn’t know anything about cooking at the time,” he says.

Kramer liked to “get people who don’t know anything and mold them. In my interview, he asked if I wanted to start learning cooking. I said, ‘Sure. Might as well.’ So I washed dishes about three months, and in between those three months, he was showing me prep work and knife skills.”

Kramer asked him if he wanted to make salads. “I took to it real quick,” Hughes says. “It took a while, but once I started learning all the vinaigrettes, how to clean and prep the lettuce, it was a no-brainer after that. Something in me took over and I bonded with it.”

He moved to prepping burgers, grilling, hot apps, and vegetable plates. Kramer took him “from the ground up” and taught him.

When Hughes thought it was time to move on, Jason Dallas, then Interim’s executive chef, helped him get a job as a room service cook at The Peabody, where Hughes eventually got a crack at making pastries.

“They needed 500 duck cookies or something like that. I had to help the lady upstairs bake all the cookies, cut them all out duck-shaped, let them cool down, ice them, decorate them, and hand-bag them up with a gold duck sticker.”

Hughes landed a job as a pastry chef at the hotel. “I had no choice but to pick it up really quick,” he says, adding, “It was very confusing at the start. It was tedious work. I had no patience at the time, but pastries have really calmed me down. I’ve learned to prioritize and organize everything and actually take my time as a pastry chef because they’re real delicate. If you move too fast, you mess it up and have to start all over again.

“We had to make soufflé batter every day. I had to make giant opera cakes probably once a week. I did all the desserts for tea time. Tea time took up most of my time. I had to make all the scones, macarons, and key lime tartlets.”

Hughes moved on to other restaurants, including Paulette’s, Char Restaurant, and Cafe 1912 before Chickasaw Country Club.

The country club is “actually more relaxed,” he says. “You’re not worried about walk-ins like a regular restaurant.”

Though he might make 120 crème brûlées for a function, “I don’t really care for the fancy desserts I make all the time. My go-to is chocolate peanut butter cake.”

That cake — layers of chocolate cake with peanut butter mousse in between and chocolate ganache on top — isn’t on The Wooden Toothpick menu. But, he says, “It could be. That’ll probably be one of the cakes of the week I do.”

To order from The Wooden Toothpick, go to the-wooden-toothpick.square.site.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

Park + Cherry’s Phillip Dewayne Is Cooking — Thanks to “Dad”

Phillip Dewayne had no desire to be a chef when, as a teenager, he landed a job washing dishes at The Peabody.

His friend’s mom got him a job in the banquet kitchen. “Which is hundreds and thousands of dishes a night because of the capacity of work they do,” Dewayne says.

That’s when he met the man he calls “Dad” — Andreas Kisler, The Peabody’s executive chef.

Michael Donahue

Phillip Dewayne

Dewayne now is chef/owner of Park + Cherry at Dixon Gallery and Gardens. “I never would have taken this journey without him,” he says. “Honestly, I owe everything to that guy.”

On February 20th, Dewayne and Aaron Bertelsen, author of Grow Fruit & Vegetables in Pots: Planting Advice & Recipes from Great Dixter, will create a three-course dinner.

Dewayne, 30, who grew up in a two-bedroom house with his mother, grandparents, sister, and brother in Klondike in North Memphis, had never met anybody like Kisler. “Kisler and I had a few talks, and he basically told me, ‘You know, if you take this seriously, you listen to me, one day you can go on to open your own restaurant. You’ll be as successful as you push yourself and allow yourself to be.'”

Dewayne became a cook, and Kisler yelled at him like he did the other cooks. “I would overcook things,” he says. “I would undercook meats. I screwed up a lot. I was 18, 19 at the time. I wasn’t always prompt. I got sent home a ton for not being in the right attire.”

But Kisler also told him, “You know, I have to be that guy because I have to get the team in order.”

Dewayne became Kisler’s “go-to guy.” He helped him with the hotel’s wedding tastings and banquet events. “We became like Batman and Robin,” Dewayne says.

He refers to Kisler as Dad. “Not having a dad, he kind of stepped into that role for me,” he says. “I had the ultimate respect for him. I knew that he was really trying to give me something I could have for a lifetime.”

After a few years, Dewayne left the hotel and went to work for River Oaks’ chef/owner Jose Gutierrez. “Andreas probably would have preferred for me to stay and work my way up, but my ambition pushed me to want to leave The Peabody,” he says.

Dewayne also worked at Restaurant Iris under chef/owner Kelly English. “Andreas and Jose were more French technique straight by the book,” he says. “Kelly was true to the South. Very Cajun, very New Orleans Creole.”

After Restaurant Iris, Dewayne took a job at the Del Coronado Hotel in San Diego, joined the Navy, then moved back to Memphis, where he worked as a private chef, became part of a catering business, and began his own meal prep business.

Dewayne then got the job at Dixon, where he focuses on farm-to-table dishes. As for the “Phillip Dewayne style,” he says, “I like Asian [food], so I’m trying to create more of a French-Asian fusion. … I love to create a taste that people never had before.”

Dewayne’s excited about working with Bertelsen. “We’re going to team up for a USA-UK collaboration take on dinner. We’ve created a menu that’s American and British, based on some of the recipes from his books. I’ve tweaked them a bit to add a little a Southern flair.”

And now Dewayne is giving back. He created the Chef Phillip Dewayne Foundation. “I teach parents how to nourish their kids. It’s an effort to fight childhood obesity and give food knowledge to poverty-ridden neighborhoods.”

Garden to Table dinner with chef Phillip Dewayne and Aaron Bertelsen from the Great Dixter House & Gardens in East Sussex will be held at 6 p.m. on February 20th at Park + Cherry restaurant at Dixon Gallery and Gardens, 4330 Park. Tickets are $150, which includes all food and beverages and a copy of Bertelsen’s book. To make reservations, call 761-5250 or visit dixon.org.

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News News Feature

Party Like It’s 2020: Our NYE Guide

It’s been 20 years since 1999 — and 37 years since Prince released his end-of-the-world party album 1999 in 1982 — but we’re still going to party like it’s the end of the decade. That’s right, the “new” millennium is out of its difficult teen years and almost old enough to buy itself a drink or rent a car. Hopefully we’ve all gained some wisdom, but now’s not the time for quiet reflection. It’s time to par-tay! Here’s our guide to some of Memphis’ most happening events this New Year’s Eve.

AutoZone Liberty Bowl

The 61st annual bowl game is perfect for those who want to celebrate without staying out too late. Navy vs. Kansas State. Liberty Bowl Memorial Stadium, Tuesday, December 31st, 2:45 p.m.

Beale Street’s New Year’s Eve Celebration

Say goodbye to 2019 amid Beale’s 188 years of history with a party with live music, dancing, fireworks, food, drinks, and a giant mirror ball. No purchase necessary to attend, but remember, Beale Street is 21+ after dark. Beale Street, Tuesday, December 31st, 5 p.m.

Lord T. & Eloise

Lord T. & Eloise’s New Year’s Eve Ball

A night of decadence, desire, and debauchery promises to descend upon revelers at the newly reopened Black Lodge, with performances by Model Zero, Glorious Abhor, Louise Page, and Memphis’ most aristocratic rappers, Lord T. & Eloise. There will also be aerial and dance performances from Poleuminati and a light show from Queen Bea Arthur. Dance, dance, dance among the DVDs! Black Lodge, Tuesday, December 31st, 9 p.m. $20.

The PRVLG

New Year’s Eve at Hattiloo Theatre

Kortland Whalum, Talibah Safiya, and The PRVLG will perform, and comedian P.A. Bomani will deliver the end-of-year chuckles. Admission includes a flute of champagne and party favors, and the FunkSoul Cafe will be open, as well. Hattiloo Theatre, Tuesday, December 31st, 9 p.m.

New Year’s Eve at Graceland

Party like a king — or at least where the king of rock-and-roll used to party. Experience the “wonder of New” Year’s with this dinner and dance party at Elvis’ old stomping grounds. Roby Haynes and Party Plant perform, and admission includes a buffet dinner and midnight champagne toast. The Guest House at Graceland, Tuesday, December 31st, 7 p.m. $125.

Peabody New Year’s Eve Party

Ring in the new year in style at the South’s grand hotel. With music by Almost Famous, Seeing Red, and DJ Epic and a VIP section that includes party favors, hors d’oeuvres, and unlimited champagne, this party will help revelers set a sophisticated tone for the new year. The Peabody, Tuesday, December 31st, 8 p.m. $40-$175.

Quintron & Miss Pussycat’s New Year’s Eve

A New Year’s tradition. Hash Redactor and Aquarian Blood perform.Admission includes a free champagne toast and the balloon drop at midnight.

Hi Tone, Tuesday, December 31st, 8 p.m. $20.

Dale Watson & his Lone Stars with Honky Tonk Horn Section

This honky tonkin’ hootenanny is the Hernando’s Hide-A-Way way of ringing in the new year and a new decade. With a champagne toast, black-eyed peas, and cornbread to get the year started off on the right cowboy boot. Hernando’s Hide-A-Way, Tuesday, December 31st, 9 p.m.

New Year’s Eve with Spaceface

The Young Avenue Deli has a brand-new sound system, and there’s no better way to test it out than with a rockin’, raucous band. Ring in 2020 with Memphis’ most theatrical psychedelic party band. Champagne toast at midnight.

Young Avenue Deli, Tuesday, December 31st, 9 p.m. $15.

New Year’s Eve with Star & Micey

Railgarten is Midtown’s backyard, so it’s only right that they should invite local legends Star & Micey to help sing in the new year. For those who “Can’t Wait” for 2020, don’t try to Get ‘Em Next Time — get to this party this year. Daykisser opens. Railgarten, Tuesday, December 31st, 9:30 p.m.

New Year’s Eve Lantern Hike

Celebrate the new year in nature. Ranger Gooch leads this lantern-lit, two-mile hike through the woods. S’mores and hot chocolate or hot apple cider await attendees at the end of the hike. Remember to dress for the weather, and please leave flame-lit lanterns at home. Meeman-Shelby Forest State Park, Tuesday, December 31st, 11:30 p.m. $5.

Roaring ’20s New Year’s Eve Party

Giggle water at midnight, eh old chum? Admission includes an open wine and beer bar, a midnight champagne toast, and hors d’oeuvres. All proceeds go to the Boys & Girls Club of Greater Memphis. 616 Marshall, Tuesday, December 31st, 8 p.m. $75-$150.

Spectrum XL Goes to Minglewood

Ain’t no dance party like a Spectrum dance party. The storied club brings its end-of-the-year dance party to Minglewood. Bring your own sequins and glitter. Proceeds benefit Friends for Life. Minglewood Hall, Tuesday, December 31st, 9 p.m. $30-$125.

New Year’s Eve Bash at B.B. King’s

Maybe the best way to ensure you don’t get the blues in 2020 is to ring in the new year by dancing to the blues at B.B. King’s. Tickets include open wine and beer bar, midnight champagne toast, and hors d’oeuvres. B.B. King’s Blues Club, Tuesday, December 31st, 6 p.m. $25 (general admission), $100 (dinner package).

Back to the ’20s

Another early-night option, Crosstown Brewing’s New Year’s shindig includes music by Graham Winchester, dinner catered by Next Door American Eatery, and the debut of I Am Brut — a Brut IPA for those non-champagne drinkers out there. Crosstown Brewing Company, Tuesday, December 31st, 6:30-9:30 p.m.

Beauty Shop New Year’s Eve

A four-course dinner with the swinging, sultry sounds of Gary Johns & His Mini Orchestra. Call 272-7111 for reservations. Beauty Shop, Tuesday, December 31st, 5 p.m.

Toast to the ’20s

Tin Roof gets the new year going with music from Chris Ferrara, Bluff City Bandits, The Common Good, DJ Stringbean, and DJ ZewMob. Champagne toast at midnight. Tin Roof, Tuesday, December 31st, 6 p.m., $30.

New Year’s Party at Gold Club

Okay, so the family-friendly holidays are over. The little turkeys and reindeer have all been put to bed before midnight, and the adults will play. It’s time to get down and dirty and let the new year come in hot and heavy. Party with a balloon drop, dance and drink specials, and a complimentary champagne toast at midnight. Gold Club Memphis, Tuesday, December 31st, all night long.

New Year’s Eve on the Terrace

Ring in the new year against the stunning backdrop of the Mississippi River and the colorful Mighty Lights bridge light show. What’s more Memphis than that? Call 260-3366 for reservations. Terrace at the River Inn, Tuesday, December 31st, 4 p.m.

Y2K New Year’s Dance Party

Remember the Y2K panic of 1999? The computers couldn’t understand a new millennium. A nine becoming a zero was going to cause worldwide nuclear meltdown. Anyway, let’s relive that end-of-year mass hysteria — with drinks and dancing! Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Y2K with end-of-the-world drink specials, DJs spinning tunes, and dancing throughout the night. Rec Room, Tuesday, December 31st, 8 p.m.

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News The Fly-By

Cartoonist Greg Cravens Has Made His Mark All Over Memphis

If you’ve ever picked up fried chicken at Jack Pirtle’s, requested a maze or crossword puzzle for your kid at Shoney’s, or seen the balloons depicting a top hat with shoes in front of a Jim Keras car dealership on Covington Pike, you’re familiar with the work of cartoonist Greg Cravens.

In fact, you probably see Cravens’ work every week in this very paper. Cravens illustrates the Flyer‘s “What They Said” column, and he occasionally creates graphics for the cover. He’s been working with the Flyer on a freelance basis since the paper was founded in 1989. But Cravens’ work extends across the city (and even the globe).

Greg Cravens

Cravens illustrates and authors the syndicated comic strip The Buckets, which runs in about 40 papers across the globe, including papers in Australia and Thailand. He’s the guy who designed the Jack Pirtle’s logo, boxes, and cups, and years ago, he created the iconic top-hat-with-eyes “Mayor of Covington Pike” logo.

For years, he drew the Shoney Bear in that restaurant chain’s children’s activity books. He used to draw the Piggly Wiggly pig in the former Memphis-based grocery chain’s line of children’s books. He illustrates Homewood Suites’ line of children’s books that are sold in their hotel gift shops. He’s designed comic books for Backyard Burgers. He’s created artwork for the Peabody. His work is everywhere.

In the past couple of weeks, he wrapped up work on two murals. One depicts a wine cellar inside the new Pinot’s Palette location in Cordova. And the other mural is for the birds — literally. Cravens painted the Memphis skyline and the marshy Mississippi River inside The Peabody’s duck enclosure on the hotel rooftop.

But Cravens would rather be illustrating comic strips or newspaper articles.

“Murals are not my thing,” Cravens says.

His primary thing is The Buckets, a comic strip about a family with “two boys, a dog, and a mortgage.” It ran in The Commercial Appeal for months until it was suddenly dropped without explanation a few years back.

“They ran it until they dropped six cartoons from the paper, and mine was one of those,” Cravens said.

The Buckets was created by cartoonist Scott Stantis in the early 1990s, but Stantis handed the baton to Cravens in 2000, when Stantis’ kids — the inspiration for the comic — grew up. Cravens had two young kids at the time, and thanks to a background in advertising illustration, he was skilled in mimicking the styles of other artists. He was able to draw The Buckets characters in Stantis’ style for several years before adding a few tweaks in his own style.

He also authors and illustrates his own webcomic called Hubris (http://hubriscomics.com), which highlights all the outdoorsy things Cravens wishes he was doing — bike riding, skateboarding, rock climbing, kayaking.

“I started Hubris so I could own something when I sell books at [cartoonist] conventions or sell sketches or doodles. When I started doing The Buckets, syndicates still owned all the work. Later, creator rights kicked in, and you can now copyright it with your name. So The Buckets is mine now too,” Cravens said.

Cravens began his work as a cartoonist when he was just 14 years old. And, as he tells it, he’s been leaving a trail of destruction ever since.

“When I was 14, I got my first comic strip in the newspaper. It was a little weekly newspaper in Jackson, Tennessee,” Cravens says. “Three weeks later, the newspaper folded. I went off to Opryland and did caricatures when I was 16 or 17. When I left, they shut it down and turned it into a shopping mall.

“Then I went off to Memphis State and got a graphic design degree. I left there, and they changed the name of the university on me. Having left that trail of destruction, I went into advertising, thinking there’s an industry that needs a good kneecapping. You can’t kill advertising, so I went back into comic strips, and you see where newspapers are now.”

In the next few months, Cravens will be turning his attention to the 70th Annual National Cartoonists Society Reuben Awards — “like our Oscars,” he says — which will be held in Memphis on Memorial Day weekend. Hundreds of cartoonists will be flying into the city to attend the show, and Cravens has entered some work to be considered for a nomination.

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Food & Wine Food & Drink

No Fear

Halloween is upon us and, though it may sound blasphemous to some, there is more to look forward to than candy corn and caramel apples.

For one thing, local brewery Ghost River is releasing its third annual batch of Black Magic, a black beer perfect for Halloween.

“Breweries have always had seasonal beers,” Chuck Skypeck of Ghost River says. “People love to change with the seasons, because you want fuller-bodied, more flavorful beers typically in the cooler months and lighter-bodied beers in the summer.”

Even though it’s a fall beer, Skypeck wants to clear up any misconceptions about Black Magic. “Black beers tend to scare people to a certain extent, and they’re probably misunderstood. A lot of people don’t realize that Guinness, even though it has very full, intense flavors, has less alcohol than Bud Light. In general, color has nothing to do with the alcoholic strength of the beer. You can have strong dark beers, but you can also have strong light beers.”

So what can you expect? “The point of Black Magic is it’s not a stout. Stouts get a whole lot of flavor from roasted barleys,” Skypeck says. “And it’s not a porter. Porters get their flavor from chocolate malt. We use black malt to give black beer its color, but we use toasted malt to give the beer a nice sweet, malty flavor. We make it relatively light-bodied. It doesn’t drink like your typical black beer with a lot of the more acrid, acidic flavors.”

In other words, Black Magic is not the bitter, brooding beer you might expect. Go ahead and taste for yourself at the local pubs where it is sold, including South of Beale, King’s Palace, and Lynchburg Legends Bar and Grill.

ghostriverbrewing.com

All during the month of October, the Peabody is offering special pre-show menus for fans of the Broadway show Wicked. Both the Capriccio Grill and Chez Philippe will have prix fixe menus for theatergoers through October 31st.

Chez Philippe’s menu features three courses with choices such as Calabaza squash bisque, shrimp and salmon terrine, and a Wild King Salmon with fried leeks and coriander-walnut vinaigrette. Their Newman Farm pork chop is served with sweet-potato flan, turnips, and turnip greens. For dessert, they are offering crème brûlée with caramelized apples or a lemon tart with homemade mascarpone cheese. The menu is available from 5 to 6:30 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, for $65.

The Capriccio Grill also has a special pre-show menu for $45, which is available every evening from 4 to 6:30 p.m. Vegetable stew with seasonal vegetables, pumpkin ravioli with sage brown butter and toasted hazelnuts, and filet mignon with wild-mushroom ragout make for some hearty autumn dishes, and you can polish them off with Jack Daniel’s golden-raisin-bread pudding with buttermilk butterscotch sauce and vanilla ice cream.

“The menu is based around seasonal things, and also Wicked, like the witch’s vegetable stew,” says Daniel Bamrick, food and beverage director at the Peabody.

And since nothing works up an appetite quite like a few hours of witchcraft, the Peabody Lobby Bar is also serving special Wicked green-apple martinis and desserts after the show. Choose from green cupcakes, Oreo mint cheesecake, or lime tarts.

An added bonus? The price of dinners at Chez Philippe and Capriccio Grill includes complementary valet parking, so getting from dinner to the show is a cinch.

For more information, visit the Peabody website, peabodymemphis.com, or call the hotel.

The Peabody, 149 Union (529-4000)